Projects of houses made of cinder block and timber. How to build a cinder block house with your own hands

When you start construction, you want everything to be done as quickly, cheaply and reliably as possible. All these factors can be satisfied by a do-it-yourself cinder block house. This building material can be made independently. We will consider both the technology of its production and the construction process from marking to installation of the roof.

Advantages and Disadvantages

At a certain point in time, cinder block became very popular. This is explained by the fact that the waste material that remained after smelting the metal had to be used somewhere. They decided to use it as a filler for construction components. That's how this one came about artificial stone. But then it was not distinguished by the best qualities, because from an environmental point of view it had certain shortcomings. It had to be kept outside for about a year and only then put into work. Today the situation is a little different and it seems that it is the most popular material for the construction of low-rise buildings. His strengths are:

Long service life. At the right approach The stone will last about 100 years.
Good thermal insulation. Thanks to the manufacturing method air chambers, the material retains heat perfectly.
High construction speed. Thanks to the large dimensions, walls can be built much faster than with conventional brick.
Resistance to the development of fungus and mold.
Possibility of an individual approach to sizes.
The material is unloved by rodents and other pests.
A house made of such material is easy to repair.

Flaws:

Absorbs moisture well, which leads to loss of heat capacity.
Poor adhesion of plaster to this building block.
Impossibility of constructing a building of more than 2 floors.
The need to quickly erect a roof. The fact is that exposed walls cannot be left uncovered for a long time, as this will lead to their rapid destruction.
The importance of strict adherence to masonry technology.
The need for a high foundation.
It is important to carry out construction work in dry weather.
Poor tolerance to building shrinkage. In this case, splitting is possible not at the seams, but at the blocks themselves.

If you decide to purchase cinder blocks, there are several nuances that you should pay attention to. It’s good if it is possible to take measurements with a dosimeter. Thanks to this, you can determine how environmentally friendly the material is. Look at the conditions in which it was stored. It is important that it is not an open space where it is exposed to precipitation. There should be no chips or cracks on it. Using a tape measure, you need to check its dimensions. The parallel sides must match.

The manufacturing technology is quite simple. To successfully advance in this direction, it will be necessary to acquire some equipment, as well as accurately observe the proportions. So, the first step is to design a vibratory rammer. For this you will need:

sheet metal 3 mm thick;
pipe with a diameter of 75–80 mm;
Bulgarian;
welding machine;
roulette;
electric motor to create vibration.

The engine can be used from the old one washing machine or from grinding machine. No more power required. The main thing is to correctly place the weight, which will shift the center of gravity.

The sequence of work will be as follows:

Blanks are cut from metal. Two of them have dimensions of 200x400 mm, the other two have dimensions of 200x200 mm.
They need to be welded together to form a small box.
Three pipe sections of 170 mm each are cut. The length is smaller so that the thickness of the bottom wall is at least 30 mm.
Cuts are made along the end of the sleeves to a depth of 50 mm. One of the sides is given the appearance of a truncated cone.
At the other end, cuts are made to a depth of 50 mm. They contain a strip of metal 400 mm long. It connects all three elements to each other.
The ends of the pipes are closed with plugs.
This structure is placed in a box and secured to the walls.
A side is welded onto the upper end of the container to make it more convenient to fill and compact the solution.
Additionally, you can make a mechanism with which the box will lift up. To do this, you can use the profile square pipe. If you don’t want to complicate things, then it’s enough to weld two handles on the sides of the box.
The motor is attached to the larger side. To do this, four bolts are welded to the wall so that their location coincides with the holes on the body of the device. It is pressed using washers and nuts of suitable diameter.
Additionally, a lid is made that improves compaction. It will require a sheet of metal 195x395 mm. It is necessary to make holes in it for the pipes (they should be 5 mm larger than the diameter of the sleeves) and cut into two parts lengthwise. This must be done so that it sinks quietly and does not rest against the partition that secures the hollows. The parts are connected to each other using brackets made from reinforcement. It is also necessary to make a depth limiter that will prevent it from immersing deeper than 5 cm.
In order to speed up work, you can combine several of these containers with each other.
Two bolts are welded onto the motor shaft on both sides. This must be done symmetrically. In the future, to adjust the frequency and strength of vibrations, it will be enough to tighten the required number of nuts.
The final touch will be careful polishing and painting. This must be done so that the solution will subsequently lag behind better.

Today there are many options for ready-made machines on sale. If you do not want to waste time and energy, then you can simply buy or rent it.

The key to durable and resistant to various influences is a properly prepared solution. If using a tamping machine, it must be sufficiently dry. If you incorrectly calculate the proportions of water, then after lifting the container it will simply disintegrate. As a filler, you can use ash from burnt coal, broken bricks, small crushed stone, slag, etc. Plasticizers are used to provide additional resistance to moisture. The first version of the mixture will be like this:

9:1 - cement and slag, which is well sifted so that there are no unnecessary inclusions;
water should make up about half of the cement.

Second cooking method:

4:4:1 - industrial granulated slag, fine crushed stone, cement;
water the same ratio as for the first option.

The best consistency can be roughly determined as follows: you need to take ready solution and squeeze it in your hand. It must keep its shape. If you then throw it on the ground, it should spread. Once you squeeze it again it should hold its shape again.

The best place for work will be open air. Under such conditions, the solution will dry and set faster, which will increase productivity. It is advisable that the place be level. It could be concrete path or a lining made from sheet metal, boards knocked together into shields, etc. The block preparation process will be as follows:

The unit is installed in the place from which the laying will begin.
The prepared mixture is poured inside. Its quantity should be greater than the actual capacity.
The vibrator motor turns on for a few seconds. Some of the solution shrinks, so you need to add more.
The vibrator starts again for a few seconds. A finishing bedding is made and the upper end is closed with a lid.
Compaction is performed. If the lid has reached the stops, you can lift the container.
Complete setting takes 4 to 9 days.
Finished products can be stored indoors. You need to move them there after a day of drying outside. If the composition contains a plasticizer, then after 6 hours.
For greater convenience, they can be stacked on top of each other.
They will be ready for the construction process in 1–2 months.

Often partition walls are laid out from blocks that are smaller in size. To make them, it will be necessary to make a mold according to a similar principle, as described above, but its dimensions will be 120x400x200 mm. It is better to use rectangular inserts as void formers. They should be of such a size that the walls are at least 3 cm.

Calculation of the number of blocks

Projects must be approached rationally. There is no point in being overly economical, as this will affect the quality of the future building. There is also no reason for excessive wastefulness. This is especially true for the number of blocks. You should start your calculations by deciding on the thickness of the wall. This size is due to several factors, e.g. climatic conditions and soil conditions. If in winter period time the temperature drops too low, then it may be necessary to make a wall of 40-60 cm. In other areas, 20 cm will be enough, which will also be insulated with polystyrene foam or penoplex. Laying can be done in several ways:

Half a stone. This does not mean that the block will need to be cut into two parts. This means that it lies lengthwise. That is, in the case described, this is a thickness of 20 cm.
A whole stone. This is the one that lies across, and the wall is 40 cm.
One and a half stones. By simple addition we find out that it is 60 cm.
Two stones - 80 cm.

Let's assume that a project has been chosen for a future house with dimensions of 10x12 m, one-story with a wall height of 3 m. The first step is to calculate the total area of the walls. To do this, multiply the length by the width. 3×10=30 m2, 12×3=36 m2, now we double and add these results, since there are two identical planes. 30×2+36×2=132 m2. So the final result is 132 m 2. We determine the area of one block - 0.2 × 0.4 = 0.08 m 2. Let's divide the total area of the walls by the area of the block - 132:0.08=1650. But this figure is valid if the wall is planned to be made of one stone. If it is two, then the final result will be 3300 blocks.

These calculations deliberately do not take into account the openings that will be made for windows and doors. This is done so that there is a small margin. While working with material, there may be rejection, and our surplus compensates for this.

The amount of stone for partitions is calculated in the same way. In fact, the final figure will be the sum of the blocks for the main walls and internal ones.

Laying the foundation

As mentioned above, a design of this type requires high. In addition, it must be very durable so that cracks do not begin to form, which will certainly pass through the entire wall. The work will be carried out in the following order:

The area selected for construction is carefully inspected. It is better to find out in advance which part of the site groundwater are at a lower level. That's exactly what she'll do.
Everything that clutters it is tidied up, the grass is mowed to the minimum possible level. This is necessary to assess the overall slope and make markings.
According to the drawing, guidelines for the size of the future building are transferred to the area.

One peg is driven into each corner.
The correct dimensions are checked. In addition to length and width, diagonals are also measured - they must match so that the shape is regular and not trapezoidal (if this is not provided for by the project).
Holders for the guide line are made. To do this, you will need 16 wooden blocks of arbitrary size, but with a length of at least 90-100 cm. You will need 8 more small boards. Their length should be 10–15 cm greater than the width of the foundation. A crossbar for two bars is made from boards. The result should be a P-shaped design.
Two self-tapping screws are screwed onto each crossbar. The distance between them should be equal to the width of the foundation.
All elements must be driven into the ground. It is important to do this at such a level that the screws are at a height of 70 cm above the surface. The order of the stands is two for each corner so that they are in pairs opposite each other.
A fishing line or twine is stretched between the elements. It is more convenient to use a fishing line that has bright color. It does not get lost against the background of surrounding objects.
At this stage, it is necessary to once again check the diagonals between the corners formed by the stretched thread.
A trench is dug. Its depth should be 50 cm below soil freezing.
Sand is poured to a height of 25 cm. It is leveled and compacted well. After this, you need to wet it with water and let it dry. If necessary, you need to supplement the level.
Another 25 cm is filled with crushed stone. This layer also compacts well. Tamping is best done using a special electric or gasoline tool.

Next, a metal grate is made. For a foundation of the planned height, two or three elements will be required. To work, you will need ribbed reinforcement with a diameter of 10–12 mm. It is better to assemble the structure on the surface. Its dimensions should be such that it is immersed in concrete by 5 cm on each side. That is, the total length and height must be at least 10 cm less than the length and height of the foundation. Several rods are laid out over the total length. The distance between the horizontal components should not exceed 30 cm. If there are no stripes required length, then you can choose from several. In this case, the binding between them must be at least 1 m. Staples are made from smaller rods. Their height should be equal to the size of the planned sheathing, and the folded elements should be the width of the structure. They are attached to the laid out elements every 30-40 cm. Instead of brackets, you can make ordinary vertical jumpers. They are fixed to each other with knitting wire. The same number of longitudinal rods is attached to the inside from above as from below.
Typically, the height of one such structure is 40–50 cm.
Stands are laid at the bottom of the pit, which will allow the concrete to cover the reinforced base from below. For these purposes, you can use bricks or other homogeneous elements. Minimum height - 5 cm.
From edged boards, knocked into panels, plywood or other durable material formwork is being made. It must be strong enough to withstand the pressure that the concrete will exert. It is imperative to install jibs that will be stops with outside. The distance between the panels must be the same so that the foundation is formed without sagging.
After preparatory work you need to prepare a solution for pouring. You need to make sure in advance that you have an assistant and a productive concrete mixer; you can use several. This is very important because it is necessary to ensure good volume. Thanks to this, the structure will turn out to be monolithic and not layered, which will reduce strength. The composition of the mixture will be 3:1:3 - crushed stone, Portland cement, sand. Portland cement is perfect for such purposes. The fact is that it contains calcium silicate and gypsum additives. Thanks to this, quick setting occurs and strength is ensured. Be sure to add a plasticizer, this will improve the fluidity and filling of voids, increase frost resistance, and also moisture resistance.

Periodically during pouring it is necessary to perform treatment with a vibrator. This way the concrete is better compacted and the structure subsequently gains maximum strength.
During pouring, you must also try to distribute all the concrete level. Subsequently, this will help you cope with the walls faster.
If the weather is hot enough, then it is necessary to moisten the surface generously with water; it would also be good to cover the foundation with construction film or pieces of roofing felt.
With a high rate of hardening, the formwork can be removed within a week.
It is better to continue further work after a month. This is exactly the period of time required for the cement-sand mixture to gain all its strength.

If you decide not to pour such a high foundation, as described earlier, then you need to take care of constructing the base. This is a continuation of the foundation that protrudes above the surface of the earth. It is important to remember that before you start laying it, it is necessary to provide waterproofing. To do this, roofing material or bicrost is laid on the foundation. The height of such a structure should reach 70 cm or more. Next, a layer of waterproofing is laid on it again and only after that the construction of walls begins.

When erecting walls, the main task is to ensure that they turn out smooth, without protrusions. The first step towards this result is to determine the highest corner of the foundation. The fact is that during pouring it is difficult to derive the ideal value. This measurement is made using a water level. You need to make sure in advance that its length is enough to cover the length of the foundation.

An arbitrary angle is selected. One flask of the device is installed on it. The other part moves to different ends. Thanks to the difference in the position of the water, you can determine where the highest point is. Laying and leveling should begin from here. It is very important to do this, because if you start construction from the lowest point, you will have to subsequently trim the stones. If you do this with the highest one, it will be enough to simply make the seam a little larger.
Having set the starting point, you can do the same for the remaining corners. For this you will need the same hydraulic level. The task will be to place 4 more stones so that in all planes they coincide with the reference one. Additionally, you can check the diagonals.

A fishing line or twine is stretched along the outer edge of the wall. It will help make the wall level in the horizontal plane. It must be raised to the height of one row and after each new one rearranged to the same level. During work, you must ensure that the landmark is not pressed or touched by anything, otherwise it will be of no use.
To maintain the verticality of the wall, you can use several tools. For example, after laying each row, check the plane using building level. An ordinary plumb line will also serve as a guide. If you don’t want to tinker with such devices, then you can build stationary support points. To do this, they dig into the ground metal pipes that fit close to the wall. They are aligned in planes and fixed. Thanks to them it will be possible to control the process.
The solution has good thermal conductivity, so it can cause significant heat loss. To reduce this value, it will be enough to control its layer. It is better if it does not exceed 1.5 cm.

If you do not have much experience in masonry, then add a special plasticizer to the cement-sand mixture, which will slow down its setting. This will help you calmly display each element without having to redo it later.
Do not try to fill cavities in the stone with mortar, this will only worsen its properties. If desired, they can be filled with loose insulation.
Every 3-5 rows it is necessary to insert a metal mesh. It will increase the rigidity of the entire structure.

When laying the last few rows, you must remember to wall up the studs. It will be good if you can bend them and tie them with the seam of one of the rows. They should protrude above the surface to a distance exceeding 4 cm the height of the mauerlat beam. The step can be kept at 1 m or less. Rolled wire can be used instead of pins. Another option would be to fill the armored belt and install studs in it.

Roof

Installation of the rafter system and laying of the flooring should be started as soon as possible after finishing the walls. Before choosing the desired shape of the future roof, it is necessary to analyze what maximum quantity precipitation may fall, what gusts of wind there are. You also need to take into account what buildings or trees are nearby. Usually all data can be obtained from the relevant services. This information will affect what angle you need to maintain.

If the area is famous for the presence of strong gusts of wind, then the roof slope must be maintained in the region of 15–20°. Even with fairly heavy snow drifts, the layer will not remain, it will simply blow up. In the case where the area is quiet, but there is a lot of precipitation, then the optimal solution would be a spread of 35–40°. With such a slope, snow will not be able to be retained in large layers.

Looks great on private homes gable roof or all sorts of multi-slope variations. We will look at an example of the construction of the first option. If the principle is well understood, then you can move on to more complex designs.

Installation begins with the installation of the base - the Mauerlat. They can be used to tie the longitudinal walls on which the rafters will rest. Or install it around the entire perimeter, which will facilitate the construction of the pediment if it is wooden and not brick. To do this, you will need a beam with a cross-section from 50×150 mm to 200×200 mm. It should be placed in the middle or no closer than 5 cm to the edge. A layer of waterproofing must be laid underneath it, which will prevent the accumulation of moisture and rotting of the wood. Holes are drilled at the locations of the studs. The boards are secured with nuts and washers or knots using wire.
At its core rafter system is a constructor that includes a large number of parts. In shape, it resembles the letter A. In this case, the beams act in tension, that is, the force is applied in such a way that the walls are under constant tension. This option is not very good for a cinder block house, so it is advisable to use additional connecting elements. They are racks and beds.
The first step is to install the beams ceiling. After this, the entire area can be covered with film so that rainwater did not get inside the building.
Next, lay the beds on which the racks will rest. They must run parallel to the Mauerlat. The distance between them will depend on how it will be used attic space. They can be made from the same timber as the base.

The rafter legs are connected to each other using nails or nail plates. In some cases, metal staples are additionally used. If they need to be lengthened, it is better to do this with an overlap; it should be about 1 m.
There can be two or more crossbars. It is important to remember that the distance between them should be no more than 50 cm.
The trusses must be the same size to support the roof plane. You can collect them both on the building and below. In most cases, the second option turns out to be safer and more reliable.
Two go up ready-made item. They are installed along the ends of the roof and secured with temporary spacers.
Three fishing lines are stretched between them. One goes along the upper corner, the other two - from the middle of each side. These will serve as guidelines for how the next trusses will be installed. Instead of fishing line, you can use a ridge board. It is important to place it on temporary supports and check that it is level in the plane.
All other trusses are installed. To prevent them from moving, jumpers are installed, which will then be removed. Step between rafter legs must be observed in a way that will promote easy installation insulation.
The entire area on top is covered with a hydrobarrier membrane.
What material should be used for the sheathing is usually indicated in the recommendations for the flooring that you plan to use.
The last step will be insulating the roof. This is usually done using mineral wool. This is very important stage, because it will reduce heat loss and reduce costs various types fuel.

It is better to close the gables as quickly as possible. This must be done to prevent the wind from blowing precipitation inside. This way moisture will not accumulate and destroy the building material.

Interior and exterior finishing

Preferably on long period do not leave the walls bare. Their finishing can be carried out in parallel with roofing work. For outside ideal solution There will be insulation using polystyrene foam. It is attached using special umbrella dowels. It's better to start from the bottom. The first step is to install the metal starting bar. Its role can be a profile for drywall. It needs to be set according to the level, which will simplify the task in the future. A hole is drilled in the wall through a sheet of insulation using a hammer drill. Glue is applied to the back side of the insulation; ordinary polyurethane foam with small expansion. Each element should fit tightly to the previous one. During installation, it is advisable to check the evenness of the surface using a level. After this, the entire surface is covered with glue intended for this purpose. Along with its application, a reinforcing mesh is laid, which will prevent the appearance of dents from impacts. The last layer will be decorative finishing. It could be bark beetle or relief plaster.

The house can be covered with siding. In this case, mineral wool can also be used for insulation. A product with a high density, such as polystyrene foam, is suitable. First, the sheathing is installed under the cladding. After this, insulation is placed in the space between the beams. You can attach it to the wall in the same way as polystyrene foam.

As noted above, for interior decoration It will be almost impossible to use plaster. But this is not a problem, because You can sheathe rooms using plasterboard. This will allow you to compensate for any unevenness, as well as apply the desired finishing. It is important to take care of the vapor barrier so that moisture does not seep into the cinder block.

To complete all this work it will take a sufficient amount of time. But with good organization and planning, you can meet a reasonable deadline. It's always interesting to look at finished projects. Share your observations and suggestions in the comments to this article.

Video

In this video you will see how you can make a cinder block at home:

Watch the process of laying cinder blocks:

Photo

Building your own home is cheaper than buying a ready-made one. True, for this you need to approach this process correctly. Using cinder blocks will significantly reduce costs. Next, we'll look at how much it costs to build a cinder block house and what you can save on.

General information

Many people believe that building a house on their own is very time-consuming and expensive; it’s easier to buy a ready-made one. In reality this is not the case.

Of course, you will have to carry out all communications yourself, build a fence, and much more. But in the end you will get what you want. Sometimes on a search suitable home takes longer than building a new one.

First of all, you should understand that building a house is a step-by-step action plan and only strict adherence to it will allow you to save on construction. The first point of this plan is to calculate the cost.

Please note that if you do not have a plot, then its price should also be added to the cost of construction. It is difficult to give any figures here; it all depends on its area and location. In addition, costs in addition to construction should include the design of the house.

So, to find out how much it will cost to build a house, you need to find out how much you will have to spend on:

Construction of the foundation.
Construction of walls.
Roofing installation.
Construction work.

Calculation of construction costs

Foundation

Construction costs strip foundation largely depend on its type, as well as on geological conditions. In most cases pile foundation cheaper, but before you decide which type to choose and start making calculations, you need to obtain geological surveys.

Therefore, we will calculate the cost of a strip foundation. The first cost item will be site planning. First you need to remove the top fertile layer to level the area for marking. You can save on this operation if you do it yourself.

Calculation of the cost of a strip foundation is carried out as follows:

The perimeter of the foundation is calculated.
The volume of trenches is calculated.
The required volume of concrete and the cost of its purchase are calculated.
Calculated required quantity fittings and boards and their price.
All costs are summed up and the cost is added construction work.

The perimeter of a house consists of the sum of its sides. For example, let's take a small house 6*4. Its perimeter will be (6+4)*2=20 m. Then the resulting figure should be multiplied by the depth, which in our case is 1.2 m and the width of the foundation is 0.5 m.

Thus, the volume of the trenches will be equal to - 20 * 0.5 * 1.2 = 12 m³. Please note that the width of the foundation is 0.4 m, the rest of the volume will be taken up by formwork.

Since the foundation will require formwork, you need to calculate the side areas. The perimeter must be multiplied by the depth and the resulting value doubled. The result of the calculations can be used not only to calculate the forest, but also for the waterproofing area.

Once you know the price, you can easily calculate the cost of the material by multiplying it by the resulting figure. Don't forget to add shipping costs as well.

All that remains is to count the reinforcement. You will need vertical pins, which are installed in pairs every half meter. Accordingly, the calculation will be as follows - 20: 0.5 * 2 = 80 rods of 1.2 m each, i.e. 96 m, plus two “threads” - 20 * 2 = 40 m, which in total will be 136 m of reinforcement.

Walls

The sizes of foam block, gas block and cinder block are different. The standard size of cinder blocks is 390x190x188 mm, but there are other sizes - 400x200x200 mm. In addition, there are half-blocks of size - 390x120x188 mm. They are also called partition blocks. In addition, they can differ in the degree of emptiness: from full-bodied up to 40% voids.

Based on the size of the block, you can determine how many pieces will be needed to build a house, then find out how much 1 cinder block costs and calculate the total cost.

To do this you need:

Calculate the area of the box of the future building and calculate the area of the openings. We multiply the length of each wall by the height, and then sum up the data of all walls. From the obtained value, the area of window and door openings should be calculated.
Calculate the area of the outer edge of the block.
Divide the resulting area of the box of the future house by the area of the block’s edge.
Multiply the resulting value by the cost of one cinder block.
Calculate the cost of masonry.
All costs are added up.

For example, if cinder blocks are standard size and lay them outward with a wide edge, then the area of one block will be - 390 mm * 190 mm = 0.0741 m2. From this it follows that for one square meter of wall you will need: 1 / 0.0741 = 13.49, if you round it up, you get 14 blocks.

5% should be added to the resulting figure, since the possibility of combat during transportation must be taken into account. Then you need to find out how much one cinder block costs and multiply this figure by the number of blocks needed for one square meter of wall.

This way you will find out how much a cinder block costs for one square meter of wall. We multiply the resulting figure by the quantity square meters boxes of the future home and thus find out how much money will be spent on purchasing the material. However, procurement is not the same as building walls.

If the masonry will not be carried out independently, then you should find out how much it costs to lay a cinder block. Because one square meter of wall consists of 14 blocks, multiply this value by the number of square meters of the box and the price of laying one block.

The advantages of cinder blocks include the fact that their laying does not require high professionalism of a mason. Accordingly, the price for it will be lower, as well as for the blocks themselves.

Advice! You can save money by adding a plasticizer to cement. This will not only reduce cement consumption, but also increase its frost resistance.

It is quite possible even for an inexperienced beginner to build a cinder block building on their own. To build, you need to purchase a cinder block or make it yourself. This material allows you to build a home in a short time, because the size of the blocks is quite large, much larger than, for example, brick. The name of the material itself comes from the main component of the material - slag, but now both slag and other compositions can be used. Among the wide variety of materials on the construction market, the construction of buildings from cinder blocks occupies a leading place. Let's take a closer look at how to build a house with your own hands using cinder blocks, how to make the material yourself, and the nuances of this type of construction.

Making cinder blocks yourself

If to build a home you decide not to buy building materials, but to make it yourself, you need to prepare for this process and take into account the necessary points:

Find or make special molds into which the solution will be poured; there should be a large number of them, since the finished products will dry in the molds; the material for the base can be iron or wood.
The best grades of cement are four or five hundred; the strength of the cinder block, and therefore the quality of the entire building, will depend on the quality.
Water that will be used to mix the solution.
Various fillers, which ones are up to you, it can be sand, expanded clay, furnace slag, shavings.
Devices for creating voids in blocks; bottles or blanks made of any materials are suitable for these purposes.

To obtain a high-quality cinder block, you need to mix the solution in proportions of three to one and five. This will be sand, cement and your chosen filler. It is necessary to insert devices into the mold to form voids and then pour the solution. The blocks will dry for a number of days, which will depend on weather conditions, but it is recommended to remove the blanks after six to eight hours.

IN best case scenario in a day it will be possible to release the molds for the blocks for the production of the next batch. We stack the freed blocks for final drying; the cinder blocks should be kept for about a month and only after final drying can the walls be erected. But the ideal option would still be not the most freshly made products, but those that were prepared several months in advance, and even better from the previous season.

Advantages of cinder block houses

A building built from cinder blocks lasts for a hundred years, and these are not just words. There are buildings made from this material that are already a century old, and their quality is still excellent.

Why is cinder block construction considered a priority? Let's analyze:

one of the most important advantages of such buildings is fire safety;
if during construction cinder block house do not ignore the issue of reinforcement, then the building is not afraid of either natural disasters or climate change;
the material is good because it holds heat well and protects against temperature changes;
it is easy to repair the building;
masonry is done faster due to the fact that the size of the blocks is large enough, you can change the thickness of the walls and use masonry in one, one and a half or two blocks;
construction does not require special knowledge;
on the Internet you can find various proposals for designing houses made of cinder blocks;
the building material is not subject to biological destruction and can last for more than a century;
the blocks are an excellent soundproofing system;
prices for building materials are affordable.

Features of cinder block

Cinder block can be found in three types - a standard block, measuring twenty by forty centimeters, a semi-block and a block with internal voids. Therefore, blocks for construction come in two options:

monolithic;
hollow.

Hollow ones differ in the volume of cavities inside the product:

two rectangular cavities;
four rectangular cavities;
two or three rounded cavities;
three rows of randomly shaped voids.

The strength of the material is marked by the magnitude of the load. If the block has low load-bearing capacity, its use in multi-story buildings is prohibited; high hygroscopicity entails the following requirements:

do masonry only in good dry weather;
make masonry only on a sufficiently high foundation - more than half a meter;
apply the final outer coating immediately after building the walls, the layer thickness should be at least two to three centimeters;
The frame of the house must be covered with a roof as soon as possible.

Disadvantages of cinder block

Despite the large number of advantages of cinder block as a material for the construction of residential buildings, there are also negative aspects of using the material:

the appearance of the erected walls is not very attractive and requires a finishing coating that can decorate the building;
when using blocks with a decorative structure, it requires additional waterproofing, which complicates construction and requires additional financial investments;
it is not easy to carry out drainage and energy supply;
it is necessary to insulate the walls, since the material has high thermal conductivity;
environmental safety is often a big question; if manufacturers used unlicensed brands of fillers, then there may be a possibility of radioactive radiation.

Exterior decoration of a cinder block house

Construction residential buildings made of cinder block is becoming increasingly popular, such construction can be carried out quickly, while cinder block is an inexpensive material, but the looseness of the walls, water absorption, and poor tolerance of temperature changes make it necessary to externally insulate the walls or apply decorative finishing.

Builders claim that if you carry out high-quality external finishing of wall surfaces, this will not only protect the material from adverse influences environment, but will also help to insulate the house. In that case internal insulation no need.

You can clad a house with many materials; the owner himself decides which one to choose, based on cost and preferences.

The following types can be distinguished exterior finishing cinder block houses:

curtain wall or siding;
stone cladding;
decorative plaster;
brick cladding.

The most inexpensive work is considered to be insulating a house using polystyrene foam and applying plaster and painting.

Choosing a cinder block for your home

If you make cinder blocks yourself, carefully check the quality of the materials. An auxiliary substance such as slag, granotsev or other raw materials must have a quality certificate. A dangerous point when using cinder block construction is the possibility of radioactive radiation. Also, when purchasing ready-made material, check the documents and certificates. Pay attention to the following recommendations when choosing a cinder block:

when buying blocks, give preference to environmentally friendly fillers - crushed stone, shell rock, shavings;
when buying ready-made material, check all bundles with cinder blocks to ensure they are identical and intact;
check the characteristics of raw materials, which directly affect density, frost resistance, thermal conductivity and strength;
the quality of the product can be checked using a one and a half centimeter nail, if it fits into the lower block - the quality of the building material is questionable;
a vibrating machine must be used during production, otherwise the blocks will be suitable only for outbuildings, but not for residential premises;
pay attention to the color of the cinder block - gray indicates a large amount of cement, if the color of the filler predominates, you need to check the quality of the blocks with special attention.

When choosing a cinder block, listen to the advice of professionals who recommend:

give preference to blocks made at the factory rather than in unknown places using unknown technology, so you will be confident in the quality of the building material and the reliability of its characteristics;
There is a way to check the quality of a cinder block - if it falls from a height of one and a half meters and does not break, does not crumble, but remains intact or the edges are slightly chipped, then the block is very good quality, otherwise there are big questions about the quality of the material.

Tools for DIY home construction

You can build a house with your own hands, without involving a construction team in this process. To do this, you need to prepare theoretically if you are an inexperienced amateur. Surely, there is a person in your circle who will give practical advice on how to build a house from cinder block. First you need to stock up on the necessary tools:

a trowel for spreading the mortar;
level to check the correctness of the masonry;
a plumb line to lay out the wall evenly;
tub, for mixing the solution;
shovel, for collecting raw materials;
a pickaxe for leveling blocks;
bucket, carry water;
stretchers, carry heavy materials;
protective equipment, this could be a respirator and eye protection glasses.

To save effort, experienced builders recommend renting a concrete mixer, since mixing the solution by hand is very difficult and a lot of time is spent on one batch. A day's rent is inexpensive, but you will significantly save energy, health and time.

It is also necessary to think in advance about scaffolding, from which it will be much more convenient and faster to build a house. Laying a cinder block from a stepladder is very difficult, since the weight of the block is on average twenty-eight to thirty centimeters.

Technology for building a cinder block house

The tools have been collected, the material has been purchased, you can get started, but there are still a few things left to be convinced of:

double-check the number of blocks to make sure there are enough of them;
check that all necessary tools are available;
carefully study the masonry technique and methods of connecting rows;
calculate the forces and time to build walls at the most suitable temperature;
before starting construction work on the construction of walls, make sure that the foundation is level, if necessary, use bricks;
We must not forget about waterproofing the foundation before laying the first row.

Laying blocks can be done in several ways:

in one block;
half;
one and a half blocks;
in two blocks.

Particular attention is paid to the first rows; the evenness of the entire building depends on them. After each block, the evenness of the masonry is checked using a plumb line or level. Construction begins with the laying of four corners at once, the height is set to four rows. The rows must be laid using a stretched cord.

When working with hollow blocks, you should remember that the voids do not need to be filled with mortar; their purpose is for thermal insulation.

It is important not to forget about the connection of rows and to use reinforcement. Reinforcement is recommended every four rows.

If, after the walls have been erected, cladding is planned external walls, then there is no need to unstitch the seams. But if you don't plan decorative cladding, every two to three rows it is necessary to remove excess mortar from the seams.

You can build a cinder block house with your own hands in a short period of time. If it's hard to figure out what it should be future home and make a drawing, you can contact specialists who will help you plan, taking into account your wishes. Drawings of a cinder block house can be found on the Internet or you can come up with it yourself. Flights of imagination and the realization of your desires will help you create your dream home.

Before building a cinder block house, you need to thoroughly study theoretical issues and weigh your strengths. If you are ready, then watching a video on how to build a house from cinder blocks will help you understand the basic purchase issues building materials, stages and rules of construction. Upon completion of construction, you will be able to equip your own home, which will allow you and your children, as well as future generations, to enjoy life in it.

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If you are faced with the task of quickly and inexpensively building your own home, pay attention to cinder blocks. This inexpensive building material is deservedly popular among private developers. His technical specifications allow you to create comfortable and reliable housing.. The pros and cons of such construction, types of blocks and their purpose, the work algorithm are in our article.

Cinder concrete houses are an example of cheap and fast construction

Cinder block is a building stone prepared by pressing from cement and filler. Mass production of cinder blocks is developed in regions with metallurgical production. It is there that waste from blast furnaces is actively used in the production of building materials. The first part of the name, slag, may have a non-literal meaning. It is understood as crushed stone, crushed glass or expanded clay, shavings and sawdust, ash, ash, sand.

What is better to choose for construction: brick or cinder block

A slag concrete house has its pros and cons, but, compared to a brick one, it, oddly enough, wins. Cinder block has a porous structure and holds heat much better than brick. Brick also has excellent thermal insulation qualities, but to heat cold house from this material, it will take a very long time.

A slag concrete wall weighs less than a brick wall, which means there is no need for a reinforced foundation. For construction brick walls it will take longer and the cost of the work will be much higher. Again, the cost of a cinder block is lower than the cost of a brick.

Article

Cinder blocks were invented almost a hundred years ago. Due to their versatility of use and affordable cost, they have firmly entered the market. They are used everywhere for the construction of residential buildings and objects for various purposes.

During production, various fillers are added to the concrete solution: blast furnace or volcanic slag, gravel screenings, expanded clay, shell rock, ash, sawdust. After pouring, the molds are pressed in a vibrating machine and dried for a long time.

Finished blocks are lightweight and have a low heat transfer coefficient. Large dimensions make it possible to create lightweight structures and speed up the pace of construction. Slag concrete is actively used in the design of low-rise buildings, garages, arrangement of basements, cellars, installation of attics, laying columnar and strip foundations.

Advantages:

1. Cost-effectiveness - cheap fillers and low-cost technology suggest minimum consumption binder component (cement) without loss of product quality. Cinder block walls of a house do not require heavy, expensive foundations.

2. Fire safety - withstand prolonged exposure to open fire and are not destroyed by high temperatures.

3. Resistance to natural disasters - houses can withstand hurricanes and earthquakes, especially if the walls are reinforced with steel reinforcement.

4. Durability - the main material does not shrink and gains strength over time. For a slag concrete house, builders set a service life of up to 100 years.

5. Simple installation - it is not necessary to involve expensive specialists for masonry; you can handle the work on your own.

6. Unpretentiousness - storage and transportation of blocks do not require special conditions.

7. Affordable design - many online resources offer free detailed plans and ready-made schemes for the construction of turnkey houses.

The porous structure facilitates masonry work, increases noise absorption and improves the thermal insulation of the house.

Review of popular projects

1. House with an attic 10x15.

The total area of the cinder block building is 220 m2. Approximately a third of the first floor is occupied by a garage and technical rooms. On the opposite side of the house there is access to a wide terrace. The spacious living room and kitchen are located nearby, which is very convenient for receiving a large number of guests.

In the center of the attic there is a large hall with a floor-to-ceiling window. The project also includes a bedroom, an office, 2 children's rooms and 2 bathrooms. All rooms are separate, the doors open into the hall. The office and one nursery have balconies.

2. 10x10 house plan with garage.

The location of the attic is provided only above the residential part of the 1st floor. In addition to the garage, downstairs there is a narrow hall, a toilet, small kitchen. The living room has a built-in stove corner staircase and exit to the terrace. On top floor 2 bedrooms and a bathroom.

The house is designed for small family of 2-3 people.

3. Project of a cinder block house on 2 floors 10x10.

The total area of the building is 180 sq.m. The house is divided into many living rooms. It also provides the necessary technical and auxiliary premises: boiler room, kitchen, wardrobe, 3 bathrooms (one downstairs and 2 upstairs). It's spacious ergonomic house for a large family.

What determines the cost of building a house?

The final price of a cinder block building is made up of many factors:

House design taking into account engineering and communication systems. Ordering a plan from an architectural studio starts from 25,000 rubles.
Excavation of soil under the foundation of a house to a depth of 0.7-1 m. A cube of earth costs 400-500 rubles.
Construction of a monolithic strip foundation (reinforcement + filling). For a wall 0.4 m thick, a base width of 0.5 m is required. Material costs are about 8,000 rubles per cubic meter. If you hire a team, then the project estimate needs to be increased by 10-15%. Laying a turnkey strip foundation costs 17,000-19,000 rubles per cubic meter of concrete work.
Filling with crushed stone and sand will cost 600-800 rubles/cube including delivery. At this stage of construction, you can include the arrangement of the basement.
Purchase of slag concrete 390×190×190 mm. To lay walls in one block per 1 m2 you need 12.5 pieces. If walls made of double cinder blocks are specified, then 25 pcs/m2 will be required. The approximate cost of a block is 30-35 rubles plus 8-10% for battle and defects.
Cement and sand. According to the laying plan, a cube of mortar is enough for 4.3 m3 of wall. To do this, you need to buy 6 bags of M400 cement and a cubic meter of sand, which will cost 1800-2000 rubles.

The estimate includes the costs of roofing, floors between floors, windows, and doors. The general list also includes materials for insulation, internal and exterior finishing. The most expensive part is the installation of heating, sewerage, gas, water and electricity.

Some nuances influence the final cost:

1. Walls made of cinder concrete cannot withstand the load of a concrete floor. Therefore, in a house project it is usually planned to install an armored belt made of longitudinal beams.

2. When constructing walls, it is necessary to reinforce every second row of blocks with steel bars. This increases the cost per cube of masonry by 300-350 rubles.

3. To make the structure lighter and cheaper, you can use hollow cinder blocks. Since they have increased fragility, they are suitable only for the construction of 1-2 storey houses, garages or installation of an attic.

Thus, the approximate price of a turnkey house is about 20,000-25,000 rubles per 1 sq. m. meter of area.