Whitewashing the facade with lime technology. How to whitewash a ceiling using old whitewash

Live in a wooden house filled with special light and clean air, is a pleasure. But such housing is not without its drawbacks. The most important of them are the likelihood of fire of wood structures, the danger of rotting and damage by fungi and insects. There are many ways to protect wooden house or wooden elements from negative influences. Today we will look at the simplest, most environmentally friendly and, as forum members assure, healthy – lime.

She was always considered good antiseptic, which protected the walls from various problems, and at the same time disinfected the air. However, if previously almost the entire room, now mostly hidden wooden parts of the house are covered with lime: rafters, floor beams, floor joists, etc. Summer residents assure that the treated boards remain as good as new, even after several decades.

Lime and salt for wood processing

The simplest “recipe” for whitewashing boards is lime mixed with salt and water. Member site Temra I do not recommend treating the walls of your house with purchased slaked dry lime - the walls will get dirty. Use quicklime: it is extinguished, salt is added (salt, as an antiseptic for wood, strengthens its composition and gives shine), and the walls are whitened with this solution.

Lime is slaked in a container that can withstand high temperatures from the lime reaction - in a metal bucket. It is not tightly closed to allow steam to escape. Please note that when slaked, the lime will increase in volume by 2-3 times. Therefore, do not add a lot of lime at once, approximately 2-3 kg. Water is taken 3-4 times more than the volume of slaked lime. It’s okay if there is a little more – it will boil away. After you have filled in the entire amount of water, cover the container with a lid and do not approach it until the reaction is complete (determine by ear). After the lime has cooled, dilute it with water to the consistency of very liquid sour cream and add color, maybe “blueing” - 1 tbsp. l. for 1-2 liters of water. Everything can be whitewashed! According to Temra, treating the boards with lime of this composition ensures that the walls do not shine and do not leave marks after a light touch.

When diluted with water, lime can be stored for a very long time; the main thing is to prevent it from drying out by constantly adding water. If the slaked lime has dried out and all the moisture has evaporated, then you will have to throw it away.

To whitewash lumber walls, lime-clay-salt coating (IGSO) is also used. For 1 sq. m surface you will need the following materials:

• Lime dough – 74% (or 1 kg 36 g);
• Clay – 4% (56 g);
• Table salt – 11% (154 g);
• Water – 11% (154 g).

In total you will get 1.4 kg of solution.

To obtain the desired consistency of the solution, the amount of water can be increased or decreased.

IGSO is prepared in wooden or metal containers with anti-corrosion coating. The lime is crushed and sifted through a sieve, mixed with water into the dough in a 1:1 ratio. To obtain a more plastic dough, knead 1-2 days before the coating is completely prepared. Table salt is crushed and also sifted, mixed with water and clay is added. The clay dough is thoroughly mixed with lime dough - IGSO is ready for use. Store the solution in a closed container.

To increase fire-resistant properties, forum members advise adding a mixture of borax and boric acid to the lime-salt coating (they are also antiseptics). You will need 45g/l borax and 30g/l boric acid.

Copper sulfate as an antiseptic for wood

Member site cactus I did this: I diluted 2 kg of lime in 5-6 liters of water, separately diluted 50 g of copper sulfate in 0.5 liters of water, added 300 g of salt and about half a kilo of soaked clay. The forum member covered the mauerlat and floor beams with this composition (the latter had previously been burned with an oxygen torch). The wood treated with this product did not get wet even after two torrential rains.

Lime and copper sulfate as an antiseptic for wood.

How to whiten correctly

The coating is applied with a brush in several layers. Each layer of whitewash must dry completely (for IGSO - this is at least 12 hours). The solution finally dries after a day.

You should not make the consistency of the solution thicker in order to reduce the number of layers of whitewash. This can lead to the lime layer leaving the surface after a while.

To even out the streaks from the brush stroke, after one layer has dried, apply the next one in the opposite direction. Further, the direction of the brush also alternates. The last layer is applied away from the window so that strokes are not visible. The walls on the outside of the house are whitewashed in the same way.

The walls need to be whitened every year, one layer is enough. This is necessary in order to renew the walls and so that the lime does not crystallize and lose its appearance and its antiseptic properties.

That's all the secrets of whitewashing. In one of our next articles we will talk about painting and coating, oil-wax impregnations and much more.

Based on materials from the forum "Home and Dacha"

There are many options for finishing the ceiling, but whitewashing is the most popular of them. It is inexpensive and looks very good if the paint was applied correctly. It is usually recommended to thoroughly clean the ceiling of the old layer of lime or chalk before applying a new one. However you can put the next layer of paint directly on top of the old one. The main thing is to know how to do this in order to be guaranteed to receive good result. There is nothing complicated here - with the necessary knowledge, anyone can cope with this on their own without spending everything necessary work a lot of time.

How to whitewash the ceiling?

• chalk;
• lime;
• water-based paint.

Each of these options has its pros and cons.

Table. Materials for whitewashing the ceiling.

Material	Advantages	Flaws
	Chalk gives the ceiling an exceptional, shining whiteness, so the room will look very good.	This material gradually crumbles, thus introducing additional dust into the room. In addition, it is not waterproof, so it is not suitable for painting a bathroom ceiling.
	Lime whitewash kills fungus, so it should be used in rooms where it is present. In addition, lime is resistant to moisture and is well suited for painting the ceiling in any room, including the bathroom (and this is where fungus can be found most often). In addition, lime whitewash hides minor surface defects by sealing cracks and cracks.	Lime quite often causes allergic reactions. It cannot be perfectly white, unlike chalk mortar.
	This type of paint has an excellent appearance, while the water-based emulsion fits very well on the old coating, it adheres perfectly to the existing whitewash and does not begin to peel off over time.	Water-based paint has only one drawback - work with its use must be carried out at a temperature not lower than +5°C, but when painting the ceiling indoors, this does not matter.

If you do not want to wash off the old whitewash, you need to keep in mind that you cannot apply lime to the chalk and vice versa - otherwise the paint will not adhere well and dirty stains will form on the ceiling.

On top of the chalk you can put a new layer of chalk or water-based paint, and the lime can be covered with the same emulsion or lime. At the same time, it must be taken into account that enamel and oil paint are absolutely not suitable for painting over an old layer of lime or chalk.

Tools

There are three main methods of applying whitewash that you can use:

• roller;
• brush;
• spray.

If you do painting with a roller, the paint will lay down in an even layer, there will be no streaks or stains. In order to receive good whitewash When using this tool, the coloring composition will need to be applied in two layers. In addition to the roller itself, you will need a container for the solution, something for mixing and a paint tray. You also need a small brush to apply paint to the areas of the ceiling at the junctions with the walls - you won’t be able to do this carefully with a roller without staining the walls.

Whitewash brush can be purchased in every store building materials. It's inexpensive. While working with a brush, the paint splashes heavily, so you need to carefully protect the furniture in the apartment, as well as your eyes.

Using a sprayer Whitewash can be easily applied in a very neat, even layer. If the paint will be applied by spray, you need to carefully ensure that it is free of lumps. Its consistency should be more liquid than that of whitewash, which is to be applied with a brush or roller.

How to choose water-based paint

If everything is more or less clear with chalk and lime, then choosing a suitable water-based emulsion is a more difficult task. There are many varieties of these paints, which differ in composition and properties.

1. Polyvinyl acetate water-based emulsions are the most affordable.
2. Paints with acrylic additives- the most popular. They are suitable for any surface and are abrasion resistant (although in the case of ceiling paint this property is not so important).
3. Silicone water-based paint fits well over old whitewash even without using a primer. It is highly vapor permeable and is perfect for painting the ceiling in the bathroom or kitchen. This type of coloring composition will reliably protect the surface from the appearance of fungus on it.
4. Water-based latex paints They have very good water resistance and can be washed with detergents. In terms of price, they are superior to all other water-based emulsions.

In order to do best choice Please read the label carefully before purchasing. It should indicate the purpose of the paint, the degree of its hiding power, consumption per square meter and other parameters that you need to pay attention to. A correctly selected water-based emulsion will allow you to create a snow-white and durable coating; it will not turn yellow over time and is guaranteed to protect the ceiling from the appearance of fungus.

Painting with water-based paint

In order to get a good paint job over lime, it is best to first coat the old layer with an acrylic primer. After this, you need to check the surface for strength by trying to scratch it. If it does not crumble, then you can apply paint.

But when painting over chalk, it is not necessary to do this - water-based paint will bind it well and will stick even without primer.

Before you start work, you need to prepare the room. It is necessary to remove or carefully cover all items with film so that they do not get dirty with paint.

If you are applying paint with a brush, place strokes first perpendicular to the windows, then parallel. If the last layer is laid parallel to the light source, the streaks will not be visible after drying.

Painting with a roller is a simpler and more convenient process in which you need to perform the following steps:

• pour paint into the paint tray;
• dip the roller into the bath, and then roll it along the slope, evenly distributing the paint over the surface and letting the excess drain off;
• lay the first layer of paint perpendicular to the windows;
• wait for the composition to dry completely;
• then add a second layer, which should be parallel to the window opening;
• Carefully paint the sections of the ceiling at the junctions with the walls with a brush.

Applying paint from a sprayer is even easier - just apply three even layers, and you don’t need to watch the direction. The main thing is not to miss a single square centimeter of the surface when applying each of them.

Chalk painting

It is not difficult to prepare a chalk solution for painting the ceiling; for this:

• For 10 liters of water you need to take 5 kg of chalk and 50 g of wood glue;
• the consistency of the solution should be such that it does not flow from the knife; if the mixture flows from the blade, you need to add more chalk;
• You can add blue to the composition, in which case the ceiling will be snow-white, without a yellow tint.

The technology of painting with chalk is fundamentally no different from the technology of applying water-based emulsion.. First, choose one of the options - application with a brush, roller or spray gun. Then, during the painting process, take your time and carefully ensure that the composition is applied in an even layer. In this case new look your ceiling will definitely please you.

Painting with lime mortar

In order to make a lime solution for painting the ceiling, you need:

• take 2.5 kg of lime, add 100 g of salt soaked in water and a small amount of blue;
• Having mixed all the components of the mixture, add water to them so that the final volume is about 10 liters.

The basic rules of application are the same as for chalk and water-based paint.

Important points

When whitewashing the ceiling, you must take into account the specifics of the room. For example, in the bathroom you need to use a special composition that will be resistant to moisture and protect the ceiling from the appearance of fungus. Otherwise, the paint will quickly lose its appearance and may even begin to crumble quite quickly.

It is also important to remember safety while painting. In order to avoid getting whitewash into your eyes, skin and respiratory tract, you need to use safety glasses, rubber gloves and a respirator. If this is not done, the coloring composition can cause allergies or even chemical burns.

How to wash off old whitewash from a ceiling

Although the ceiling can be painted according to old whitewash, the best option To obtain high-quality painting, there will be preliminary cleaning and leveling of the surface. Old whitewash that does not adhere well and is peeling must be washed off. If you don't do this, you can't expect a good result. If the layer of lime or chalk that is already on the ceiling is thin, even and holds up well, painting directly on top of it would be a good option.

In order to wash off chalk whitewash, you need to:

• take a foam sponge and soak it in water so that it is damp, but the drops do not flow off;
• after this, you need to run a damp sponge over the ceiling over and over again, washing off one layer after another, and it needs to be moistened as often as possible;
• then you need to thoroughly wipe the ceiling with a wet rag - you also need to dip it in water as often as possible.

Washing off the lime layer is a little more difficult because:

• the first step is to moisten the entire ceiling; for this you can use a spray bottle;
• using a spatula or scraper, you need to remove the soaked layer of lime;
• and finally, you need to thoroughly wash the ceiling with a damp rag or sponge to remove any remaining lime and dust from it.

Removing old whitewash: a - moisten the ceiling, b - remove the soaked coating.

It is better to work in sections - while you are removing the soaked lime from one of them, the other will be saturated with moisture. This way you can go through the entire ceiling quite quickly.

In order to wash off old whitewash, you can also use special compounds.

1. You can purchase a special remover at a hardware store. It must be applied to the ceiling using a sprayer. When it dries, a crust will appear on the ceiling, which must be removed with a scraper. After this, the surface will simply need to be washed with a cloth.
2. Another option is to add vinegar to the water (one large spoon per 5 liters will be enough) and 50 ml of bath foam, mix thoroughly and apply to the ceiling surface. After waiting 20 minutes, you can clean it with a scraper and then rinse thoroughly with a wet cloth.
3. Another way is to make a paste by mixing water with flour. It must be applied to the surface of the ceiling and allowed to dry, after which the whitewash can be easily removed.

Video - Removing old whitewash

Whitewashing the ceiling by the hands of professional craftsmen

Despite the fact that it is not difficult to whitewash the ceiling yourself, you should not discount the option of turning to a professional master.

This solution is good because:

• it will help save time;
• turning to good master, you can be sure that you will get an excellent result;
• The master will need a minimum of paint to whitewash the ceiling.

Moreover, as mentioned above, whitewashing actually does not take much time. Therefore, contacting a specialist to save time makes sense primarily if you are a busy person and are used to always hiring professionals to perform certain jobs.

Due to the fact that the master uses a minimum of paint, contacting him may not cost much more than painting the ceiling yourself. The main thing in this matter is to really find good specialist, who will charge little for his work. The main thing is not to hire hacks who, working carelessly, can make the whitewash even worse than you could have done - such craftsmen also come across. They charge little for their labor, but such savings will ultimately cost a lot - you will either have to redo everything, or be left with a poorly painted ceiling.

Whitewashing the ceiling using old paint is a simple and inexpensive way to improve the interior of a room. You can’t always use it, but if the previous layer is thin, even and holds well, chalk, lime or water-based emulsion applied directly to old paint, will hold up well. If you approach the matter correctly, your new ceiling It will become really beautiful, and this painting result will delight you for many years.

Video - Do-it-yourself whitewashing of the ceiling

When carrying out renovations in an apartment, it is important to pay special attention ceiling. Smooth and flat surface is able to emphasize the dignity of the room, filling the space with air and light, which are so necessary to create cozy atmosphere. Among the diversity finishing materials used for repairing and decorating ceilings, whitewashing is the leader in popularity.

An undoubted advantage is the material attractiveness of the process. In addition, many consumers make a choice in favor of whitewash, focusing on its hygienic safety and harmlessness to health, as opposed to hanging structures, stretch ceilings or ceiling tiles.

The beautiful gloss of a freshly whitewashed ceiling goes well with any design solution rooms, visually expanding the space (read an article on our website about beautiful ceiling with your own hands). And finally, whitewashing the ceiling yourself is a completely feasible task if you strictly adhere to the rules and instructions.

For whitewashing ceilings, chalk, lime or water-based paint are most often used. Most often, when choosing a material, they are guided by what the ceiling was previously treated with. In order to determine this, it is enough to run your finger over a dry surface: lime whitewash does not smear, but chalk will remain on your finger.

However, if you have any doubts, you can rub the ceiling with a damp hand - the lime will darken, but will not remain on the skin, but the chalk will smear after your hand. It is not recommended to whitewash with chalk over lime, due to the possibility of the formation of numerous streaks and stains, which will entail repeated repainting. Ideally, ceilings should be painted once every one and a half to two years.

There are several types of emulsions:

• satin emulsion allows you to hide multiple defects on the ceiling surface due to the fact that the coating turns out to be somewhat glossy; depending on the marking of the emulsion, the degree of gloss may be different;
• matte emulsion has a denser texture, which makes it possible to hide more significant shortcomings surface, but it takes much longer to dry;
• special types of emulsions intended for kitchens or bathrooms have enhanced moisture-resistant and bactericidal properties.

Another argument in favor of chalk or lime is that when whitewashing with these materials, it is not necessary to pre-prime the ceiling.

Tools required for work

You can whitewash ceilings using either a roller or a brush. These methods are optimal for apartments and small country houses and premises.

Whitewashing using a spray gun is more labor-intensive and costly; it requires skill and ability to work with the unit; in addition, whitewashing with a spray gun creates a large amount of splashes that can interfere with work.

So, to carry out whitewashing work yourself you will need:

New brushes should be soaked entirely in warm water for several hours before use. Brushes prepared in this way will not “lose” their bristles during use. It is recommended to choose natural hard bristles with a width of 12-15 cm.

Rollers are selected individually, based on personal preferences. The main thing is to use a previously unused tool for whitewashing, in order to avoid defects and blemishes in the coating.

Diluting water-based paint is most often not particularly difficult, which cannot be said about preparing chalk or lime mortar.

The solution is prepared based on the approximate calculation that for each square meter of the ceiling to be painted in one layer, half a liter of the mixture will be required. But most often component compositions are given on an area of ​​10 sq. m. Ready mix can be stored for no more than 36 hours, and dry ingredients can be stored for several years without spoiling or losing their properties and qualities. If possible, the solution is mixed using a construction mixer.

To prepare a chalk solution you will need from 30 to 100 ml of glue (PVA or wood glue), rubbed on a fine grater to soap rind weighing 50 g, as well as 3 kg of chalk sifted through a sieve (sifting is a necessary step to remove debris and the largest particles from the whitewash material) and 10-20 g of ordinary blue to enhance the whiteness of the color and prevent possible yellowing of the coating.
First, soap shavings and glue are dissolved in warm water, then chalk, previously mixed with blue powder, is poured in in a thin, even stream with constant stirring.


The lime mixture is prepared somewhat simpler: 1.75 g is diluted in warm water rubbed lime, 100 g of table salt and 40-45 g of blue. However, this mixture does not produce rich white light, but it pays for it with its masking properties.

The amount of water is taken arbitrarily. Approximately 1 kg of chalk or lime requires 2 liters of warm water. To determine the optimal consistency of the mixture, use this technique: lower it vertically into the solution metal object with a smooth surface (pin or knife), if when pulled out the mixture flows off without leaving traces, the solution is not thick enough and chalk or lime should be added. In this case, the concentration of the mixture is increased gradually, checking the quality of the solution after each addition.

The finished mixture is left for 10-15 minutes, after which it is filtered through a sieve or a layer of rags. A well-prepared mixture has no lumps and, as it flows, paints the metal white. Immediately before whitewashing, the solution is mixed well.

Before whitewashing, the room must be emptied as much as possible: all objects must be removed, cornices, chandeliers and other lighting fixtures must be dismantled. Large furniture and built-in items and decorative elements should be thoroughly covered plastic film and cover with tape. You need to lay it out with special care flooring– this will significantly save cleaning time later.

The floors can be covered in several layers with old newspapers or sheets, floor skirting boards– paste over masking tape. Close if necessary ceiling skirting boards and stucco.

Preparing the ceiling. Step 1. Removing old whitewash

Even if the previous whitewash is not cracked and looks quite clean, it is better to remove it. To facilitate this task, there are special solutions, but you can use proven methods - warm water or a weak soap solution and a spatula.

Before starting work, you need to protect your face, body and hands with protective equipment. Lime or chalk have a detrimental effect on unprotected skin and are difficult to wash off from hair.

Removing whitewash is a painstaking and time-consuming process, depending largely on the nature of the whitewash mixture. The chalk layer is easier to clean than the lime layer.

How to remove old lime whitewash?

Most often, it is simply scraped off from the ceiling using a metal spatula, after tapping the area to be cleaned with a rubber hammer. Soaking lime whitewash is ineffective, since the old layer will clump and spread across the ceiling.

There is a known method of cleaning a ceiling slab using a paste, when the entire surface is thickly covered with a solution, and then it is cleaned off with a spatula along with the whitewash.

How to remove chalk whitewash?

The chalk layer is removed from the ceiling using hot water with the addition of 3% acetic acid and a sponge (it is acceptable to use a separate roller with a long handle). The thoroughly moistened stream is left for half an hour for the whitewash layer to swell, and then carefully removed with a spatula. If the layer is not sufficiently swollen, the ceiling is moistened again.

Chalk on problem areas should be rubbed with a sponge. And after cleaning the ceiling, let the surface dry. The degree of cleanliness is checked by the presence or absence of white marks on the palm when touching the ceiling.

Step 2: Cleaning, patching and priming

When the old layer of whitewash has been removed, the ceiling must be cleaned of stains, traces of grease or rust, mold and mildew, if any.

Traces of rust and stains can be easily removed with warm salt water and a sponge. It is advisable to treat the dried area with a solution of copper sulfate (75 g per 1 liter of water).

Old traces of fat are cleaned with a rag soaked in a solution of calcined salt, which is sold in hardware departments. After removing the stain, the area should be rinsed with water.

If the joints of the slabs on the floor cause concern, they can be glued with serpyanka - it will preserve the integrity of the coating from cracking. Slots, recesses and cracks need to be puttied. The best solution for eliminating defects in ceiling tiles is homemade adhesive putty - it holds well and is easy to use.

To obtain it you will need two parts of wood glue and plaster and one part of sifted chalk. The mixture is mixed with water and applied to the ceiling using a spatula. After drying, the surface is rubbed with sandpaper until smooth. The ceiling prepared in this way is primed - this will give the surface additional moisture-proof properties and facilitate the whitewashing process itself. The primed ceiling is left to dry for 24 hours.

Step 3. Whitewash

With a well-prepared ceiling, two layers of whitewash are sufficient. You should start from the corners, mentally dividing the ceiling into sectors. It is most convenient to start from the window, gradually moving towards the door. When carrying out work, it is very important to eliminate drafts, otherwise the whitewash may crumble.

Each layer of whitewash must be dried thoroughly and only then proceed to the next one. There are some nuances when whitewashing with various tools.

Whitewashing with a roller is preferable, as it provides best results, even with no experience. Using a roller, you can use a V-shaped motion to ensure even coloring. Or you can apply multidirectional layers: the bottom layer is perpendicular to the window, and the top layer is parallel, carefully rolling the roller over the surface. This will avoid divorces. The overlap width between strokes should not be less than 5 cm.

It is important to ensure that there are no sagging or drips. To do this, excess whitewash solution should be removed from the roller by rolling the roller along the inclined part of the ditch.

Hard-to-reach areas and corners are painted with a medium-sized brush.

Whitewashing with a brush is a more painstaking and lengthy process. The principle is the same - the work begins from the window with short strokes, the layers are applied in different directions with an interception width of 5-6 cm.

Whitewashing the ceiling is a labor-intensive process, but quite doable on your own.

Video - Whitewashing the ceiling

It is obtained by burning mountain limestone in specially equipped kilns. As a result of the thermal process, lumps of lime are obtained at the output different sizes, maintaining their strength in the air. Lime has been used in construction for quite a long time; extinguishing lumps with water allows them to dissolve, resulting in a white solution.

Lime is one of the most inexpensive materials for cosmetic repairs premises. Use a lime solution as for whitewashing interior spaces at home and for outbuildings.

The benefits of using lime include:

• Low cost, experts rate the price of lime in lumps as five points, cheaper and at the same time quality material It is quite difficult to find for finishing.
• Lime has antimicrobial properties, that is, bacteria that get on its surface die. These properties of the raw material successfully make it possible to whitewash with lime in rooms for pets and outdoor toilets.
• Lime is moisture resistant and does not crack due to temperature changes. Walls treated with slaked lime are not afraid of fungus and mold; these microorganisms simply do not settle on this raw material.
• The natural material is safe for health, it does not have a strong odor and does not emit substances harmful to breathing; on the contrary, after using lime, the room is partially disinfected.
• This material can be applied both to old whitewash and to new walls.

During the whitewashing process, after the layer of lime dries, a special film is formed on its surface, which prevents fading and increases the resistance of the walls to abrasion.

Another feature of slaked lime is its good miscibility with dyes, that is, as a result of diluting the raw material with paint, any shade can be obtained.

How to properly slak lime at home

It is best to purchase lime for planned repairs in the form of lumps. Such raw materials are preserved for quite a long time, and they can be prepared for use in short term. In order for the dilution to result in a solution that is satisfactory in terms of concentration and homogeneity, you need to know the basic rules for preparing it and be sure to follow safety precautions when working.

Rules for extinguishing lumps of lime at home:

1. For whitewashing walls and ceilings, so-called lime milk is used. It is easy to prepare - you will need one part lime and about three parts cold water.
2. Large lumps of lime should be crushed, but not into crumbs, and placed in a metal container.
3. Water is poured into a container with lime; the solution must be stirred.
4. After contact with water, a dissolution reaction occurs during which the lime may bubble and splash. Therefore, in the first 10-20 minutes, the container must be closed or moved to a safe distance. It is a good idea to use safety glasses and gloves, as splashes of the solution can cause burns.
5. The prepared lime should sit for at least 6 hours, during which time it will completely dissolve.
6. After preparation, the solution is filtered through a sieve. Thus, all undissolved elements and small debris are removed.
7. Lime milk is completely ready for use. To increase strength and to prevent lime on the walls from staining clothes in the future, experts advise adding ordinary salt and drying oil to the solution. The amount of drying oil and salt is chosen from the volume of the resulting solution; 100 grams of both are sufficient for 10 liters.

If the solution turns out to be thick, then it can be diluted with water to the required proportions. Tint dyes are introduced in dissolved form; in order to give the lime an exceptionally snow-white appearance, it is recommended to add a little blue.

Slaking lime is not a labor-intensive process, but not safe. When slaking lime, you must follow safety precautions. Extinguish in the open air, in free space, always wearing glasses, gloves and special clothing:

Whitewashing equipment

Whitewashing can be carried out in different ways. Previously, there was only one way to distribute lime over surfaces - using brushes. Modern technologies allow you to reduce the time spent on renovations using lime milk; the brush is now most often used if you need to whiten small surfaces.

You can make your work easier using the following devices:

• The spray gun can be manual, electric or pneumatic. If you are not going to process large surfaces, then the most economical option would be to buy a manual type of spray gun. The principle of operation of the devices is similar: one hose of the device is immersed in the solution, through it the lime is taken and fed through the accumulator into the other hose. At the end of this hose there is a nozzle, it is through it that the lime is released. The size and speed of the jet can be adjusted. You can buy a manual spray gun from about one and a half thousand rubles, electric options The devices are much more expensive. Using a spray gun simplifies painting work; whitewashing with its help is carried out much faster, while the supplied jet easily penetrates into hard-to-reach places.
• The lime whitening machine is used to treat large surfaces. Its operating principle is the same as that of a spray gun; its capacity can be up to 100 liters.
• A spray bottle for whitewashing can be used the same one that is used for spraying plants. Only its capacity should be in the range from 5 to 15 liters.

Any devices for mechanizing the whitewashing process can reduce repair time and ensure uniformity of lime layers. The labor intensity when using them is minimal, any person can understand the structure of the device and its principle, and it becomes possible to paint high ceilings without using a stepladder.

When using spray guns, lime consumption is also reduced, since large drops do not fall on the floor and furniture. The only condition is to use a high-quality solution without impurities or lumps, otherwise the device may clog and fail.

This is what the equipment listed above looks like

Manual spray gun Electric spray gun Spray gun for whitewashing Apparatus for whitewashing

Do-it-yourself whitewashing rules

To process the desired surfaces with lime, no special skills are required; even using this material for the first time, you can easily learn during the work process. But it is still necessary to take into account some nuances and then the repair will be fast, safe and of sufficient quality.

Whitewashing the walls

Walls can be whitewashed with lime both indoors and outdoors. Whitewashing the outside of a house is most quickly done with a spray gun. In order for the lime to adhere well, not change its color and not swell, it is necessary to first prepare the walls.

Rust stains, dirt, and greasy areas are removed from surfaces. If there are cracks, they need to be treated with a primer; good adhesion of the lime to the walls is ensured by treating them with a metal brush. Lime does not adhere to paint, so the layer of old paint must be removed.

Whitewashing is best done in cloudy weather; bright sunlight distorts perception and does not allow achieving even strokes. When using a spray gun, you need to hold it at an angle of 90 degrees to the wall, this will ensure less consumption of the solution and evenness of its application.

The video shows how you can whitewash walls with lime using a spray gun:

Whitewashing the cellar

Using lime to treat all surfaces in a cellar intended for storing food is considered the best option. Lime destroys all microorganisms, disinfects the room, prevents the appearance of fungus, due to these factors the shelf life of products increases, vegetables do not rot. Lime is resistant to moisture, so it protects the walls of the cellar from moisture.

The cellar is whitewashed with a fairly thick solution of lime; you can use both spray guns and brushes. Spraying devices are usually used in large areas, but when using them, safety precautions must be observed.

The spray gun creates clouds of tiny lime particles; in a closed space, such as a cellar, this cloud negatively affects the mucous tissue of the respiratory organs and eyes. To avoid harm to the body, you need to wear glasses and a respirator that fit tightly to your face.

If the cellar is being whitewashed for the first time, then it is advisable to apply a second coat after applying the first layer and drying it.

Whitewashing the stove

Some private houses, dressing rooms and other premises have brick walls. Whitewashing with lime is the most practical option their quick repair. The surfaces of the stove quickly become dirty with soot and grease and therefore require regular updating.

Lime can be used at any time, especially since for small surfaces you can also use a brush. In order for the solution to be easily even, the oven must be cooled and all greasy stains must be removed with sandpaper or a scraper.

How to whitewash and decorate a stove with lime can be seen in the photo below

Oven No. 1 Oven No. 2 Oven No. 3 Oven No. 4 Oven No. 5

Whitewashing the facade

The easiest way to whitewash the facades of buildings and houses is to use spray guns. Windows, doors, decorative elements you need to close it, and you need to start whitening from the highest points, moving down. It is advisable to whitewash external walls in calm, cloudy weather.

Whitewashing the ceiling

Separately, whitewashing the ceiling with lime is carried out if there is wallpaper or other finishing material on the remaining walls. If you plan to change the wallpaper, you must first remove the old ones, then whitewash the ceiling and only then re-paste the walls. All old coverings need to be removed from the ceiling, cracks must be repaired, and dirt must be cleaned. Rust and mold can be easily removed with a solution of copper sulfate.

Lime milk applies most easily and evenly to a wetted surface, so it is advisable to moisten the ceiling. After preparing the ceiling, you need to cover the floor, furniture, and windows with waterproof materials, since lime splashes well and is difficult to wipe off when dried.

The ceiling is whitewashed in two layers. The first layer begins to be applied from the window, making strokes perpendicular to the light. The second layer is applied to the still wet first layer, strokes are made in parallel sun rays. This whitewashing technology ensures the adhesion strength of the lime and the absence of streaks.

Repair lessons or how to whitewash a ceiling with your own hands:

Tree processing

Whitewashing tree trunks with lime solves several problems at once and is carried out in the spring and autumn. Treating trees in the spring protects the wood from pests and prevents the sun's rays from burning the bark. In autumn, lime is used to reduce the impact of temperature changes in winter.

Grown trees are whitewashed; young plants are not treated, since lime clogs the pores of the bark and thereby disrupts the growth processes. Before processing, you need to remove all dried parts and clean areas with rotting bark.

For whitewashing, lime is used in combination with copper sulfate. Two kilograms of lime are diluted with 10 liters of water, after preparation, 400 grams of vitriol are added to the solution.

Chicken coop treatment

Whitewashing the chicken coop allows you to disinfect the room. It’s even better if the lime slaking is carried out in the chicken coop itself, naturally without its inhabitants. The vapors released when lumps of lime are dissolved penetrate well into all cracks and destroy bedbugs, ants and other small insects.

In summer, it is advisable to whitewash the walls in the chicken coop at least twice, this will interrupt the breeding chain of many insects. Additionally, before whitewashing, walls can be treated with a weak bleach solution. The practicality of using lime for treating animal premises is rated 5 points; it is an inexpensive material, environmentally friendly and has the most optimal disinfection properties.

Consumption for whitewashing

Lime milk is usually used to whitewash walls and ceilings in a house. The consumption of lime for every 2.5 square meters is approximately 0.5 kg of lumps of lime, diluted in the appropriate proportion with water.

Features of painting and putty on lime

If you apply lime milk directly to a layer of water-based paint, it may happen that the quality of the repair will not satisfy you.

The lime adheres to the paint and runs with it, and once it dries, it is likely to cause blistering.

To prevent this, you must first wash the surfaces with paint with soap and water and a brush and then treat them with a stiff brush for better adhesion of the compounds.

Putty is used during repairs to good alignment surfaces. If you plan to putty on walls covered with lime, you must first remove the old layer. Alternatively, you can remove all swollen areas with a scraper and apply a primer, after which the lime can be easily removed.

How to remove lime from floors and walls

During the process of whitewashing surfaces with lime, stains inevitably remain on all surfaces. The easiest way to remove them is while they are still fresh; this will require water and a sponge; treatment with water is carried out several times, this allows you to remove all the white stains.

If a layer of old lime needs to be removed to apply other materials during repairs, then the following points must be adhered to:

• Wet all desired surfaces with water using a brush or spray gun.
• Wait for a good soaking, then remove the hard lime, metal sponge or a scraper. If there are several layers of lime, you will have to wet it several times and also use paper clips several times.
• If you are not afraid of dust in the room, then the process can be speeded up by using an angle grinder with a special attachment.
• It is imperative to use goggles and a respirator, since dust during work can negatively affect the eyes and the condition of the respiratory tract.

The removal of old lime can be facilitated by the use of special liquid products, under the influence of which the whitewash layer dissolves and easily comes off from surfaces.

These include:

1. Guard Industry product
2. Decap' Sols Plus Guard.
3. Tool Space.

All products contain acid, so you need to protect your hands and eyes. Some people also use diluted hydrochloric acid, but since it is hazardous to health, it is not recommended for use.

Prices for whitewashing

The use of whitewash is considered the most inexpensive option repair. Construction crews also charge minimal amounts for whitewashing. Typically, whitewashing walls with an area of ​​one square meter and using one layer starts from 50 rubles.

Naturally, the cost varies greatly and depends on many factors - surface contamination, cleaning application, application of lime in several layers. If you know your square footage, then it will not be difficult for you to calculate the approximate cost of all the work.

In conclusion, we suggest watching a video - useful tips from Professor Chainikov when whitewashing:

Huge variety of materials for finishing is replacing old methods of repair, and lime whitewashing is no longer used as widely as it was 50 years ago. But this method, proven by generations, fully corresponds to the expression “cheap and cheerful.” If you are planning to whitewash walls, ceilings or borders in the garden, learn what properties slaked lime has, how to prepare it correctly, calculate the solution consumption and apply it to various surfaces.

Lime is not the easiest material to use. However, it occupies its niche in the building materials market quite firmly and is very reluctant to give up its position. Considering all the advantages and disadvantages, in certain cases the use lime whitewash is appropriate, and sometimes it is more appropriate to choose another method.

Budget finishing material

Important properties of lime whitewash

The lime known to everyone from school is called calcium oxide in chemistry textbooks. For whitewashing, slaked lime is used, that is, it has reacted with water. Chemically speaking, slaked lime is a strong base - an alkali. It has good disinfectant properties, because an aggressive alkaline environment has a detrimental effect on fungus, insect pests and other unwanted living creatures.

Lime whitewash is not afraid of humid air, does not crack or bubble. In addition to resistance to high humidity, walls treated with this substance are resistant to temperature changes.

Fluff in powder form

For whitewashing it is not necessary to wash off the existing coating; it can be applied to old finishing. Moreover, if a network of small cracks has formed on the surface of the walls or ceiling, treatment with slaked lime solution will strengthen the finish and extend its service life.

The cost of lime for whitewashing in stores cannot be compared with the price of other finishing materials. This is due to the fact that the production process is very simple - it is a simple firing of limestone in a kiln. Raw materials cost pennies, so the price of the product is low. A thirty-kilogram bag costs about $2.

Where and why is it advisable to use lime?

The properties of an antiseptic and fungicide make slaked lime a leader among finishing materials for damp and cold rooms: cellar, barn, garage, basement and the like. It is used for walls and ceilings. The weather resistance of the substance allows it to be used for whitewashing facades.

The record holders for using lime for whitewashing and other tasks are summer residents. Here it is applied in full swing. It is customary to whitewash walls both inside and outside, add quicklime to the soil to change its acid-base balance, treat tree trunks to protect them from insects and animals, and borders for beauty.

Trees are whitewashed from pests

In those rooms where practicality rather than aesthetics comes to the fore, and where the financial side of the issue is also important, lime solution is also used to cover walls and ceilings. This can be observed in entrances, on staircases, in common corridors, and in the foyer.

It is quite appropriate to whitewash the ceiling in any living space in this way. In schools, hospitals and other institutions, lime mortar is still used for wall finishing. After drying, calcium hydroxide becomes safe and does not release any harmful substances into the air.

Entrance finishing

Buying lime - which one to buy and how much

Before going to the store, you need to find out what kind of lime to buy for whitewashing - slaked or quicklime, how much of it is required and what other components will be needed. This will save you from going to the construction market again if suddenly the solution is not enough or its properties do not meet your requirements.

How to make slaked lime with your own hands

As you already understand, slaked and quicklime are absolutely different substances, which are united only by a consonant name and the presence of calcium in the composition. For household repair work Slaked lime is used. It is sold by weight in any hardware store or department for agriculture.

Kipelka - lump lime

However, there are often situations when the farm has a fairly large supply of quicklime and it is advisable to use it rather than buy slaked lime. In this case, you can extinguish it yourself, especially since this chemical process does not require the skills to conduct such experiments in the laboratory.

So, how to prepare lime for whitewashing from lumpy quicklime. First you need to worry about personal protection. Since you will be dealing with a rather aggressive alkali, take care to protect your eyes (goggles), respiratory organs (respirator), and exposed skin (closed clothing and gloves). This must be done in the air.

Video: How to prepare a whitewash solution

You will need a deep container, such as a bucket, and a mixing tool - traditionally a stick. The list of ingredients is also short:

• lump quicklime;
• water.

Quenching process

The water must be cold, this is the only condition. Even a first-grader will remember the proportion – 1:1.

Step by step instructions:

1. For 1 kg of calcium oxide, take 1 liter of cold water.
2. Combine all this in a container and mix. Almost instantly you will be able to observe the beginning of a powerful chemical reaction with the release of a large amount of heat. When extinguishing, the mixture sometimes heats up to 150 degrees; it is not for nothing that the substance is popularly called boiling water - the solution literally boils.
3. When the reaction stops, heat and gas cease to be released, the lime can be considered “fluffy”, that is, slaked. However, it is not yet suitable for whitewashing.
4. The solution should ripen for 2-3 weeks under a lid in a cool, dark place.

Solution proportions and consumption per square

To start whitewashing with lime yourself, you need to prepare at least the following set of materials:

• powdered fluff or lime paste;
• water.

Packaging of fluff

In addition, various auxiliary substances are often added to whitewashing, which give it certain properties. The base solution is prepared in a ratio of 1:3. For every kilogram of fluff, take 3 liters of water. As a result, 4 liters of solution can be prepared from 1 kg of substance.

The consumption of lime per 1 m2 during whitewashing directly depends on the type of surface on which it is applied:

• The largest consumption is about 1 liter ready solution per square, will go untreated during whitewashing brickwork.
• A flat prepared surface requires approximately 0.5 liters per square meter of area.

Preparing the premises

Another criterion that affects consumption is painting tools. The usual one is used more often flat brush or round - maklovitsa. These tools are wasteful, the mass is applied in a thick layer, and drips and drops can form. The spray gun can significantly reduce material consumption and operating time. Often, instead of a spray gun, a vacuum cleaner with reverse airflow and even hand-held tree sprayers are used.

How to calculate the amount of fluff and water

Before diluting slaked lime for whitewashing, you need to perform some calculations. An approximate calculation of consumption is as follows.

First you need to calculate the area of ​​the walls and ceiling that you plan to whitewash. For example: a room 3 by 5 m, ceiling height 2.5 m. It was decided to treat the ceiling and part of the walls from mid-height to the ceiling with lime whitewash.

Wall area: (3*2.5+5*2.5+3*2.5+5*2.5)/2=20 m2.

Ceiling area: 3*5=15 m2.

Total area: 35 m2.

A solution of the required consistency

Based on the average consumption of 1 liter of solution per 2 m2 of surface, it is easy to calculate required quantity for whitewashing - 17.5 liters of lime mortar. You can round up to 18, or better yet, to 20, because average consumption– the concept is quite flexible.

That is, 20 liters of solution are required, and this is 5 kg of slaked lime powder. It is worth noting that ready-made lime dough, which is sold in construction stores, is diluted according to the same proportion, which means the calculation is correct for him as well.

Whitewashing leaves marks

Supplements to improve durability and combat deficiencies

Since lime has been used in construction for a very long time, there are a lot of “ folk recipes"and methods that improve the properties of this substance. Still modern water-based paints appeared not so long ago, and craftsmen were forced to study chemistry right in their dacha or home.

The first problem that is solved by adding a secret ingredient to the whitewash solution is shallowing. A dried surface tends to stain everything and everyone who touches it. What to add to lime to prevent it from smearing? This ingredient is found in every home - table salt. It has a good bonding effect. Add 100 g of salt per liter of solution.

Salt - so as not to smear

Another problem, especially when using whitewash for exterior work, is that the composition is quickly washed off with water. It has long been known what to add to lime so that it does not wash off - a fatty component is introduced into it - drying oil. Drying oil repels water and allows whitewash to last longer. Proportion 1:10, 100 ml per liter of solution.

They practice adding laundry soap, grated on a coarse grater, PVA glue, wallpaper glue, acrylic primer. All this is done in order to ensure maximum adhesion of the whitewash to the wall, to prevent its swelling and bubbling.

Drying oil - so that it does not wash off

White is not the only color possible

To prevent the lime coating from becoming yellowish, an ordinary blue dye is added to it - methylene blue. You will need 10-20 g per liter. The whitewashed ceiling will become snow-white. But sometimes it becomes necessary to obtain lime mortar of other colors. This mass can no longer be called whitewash, and not every dye is suitable. Only those pigments that are resistant to an alkaline environment are used - mineral, but in no case organic.

Pigments used for lime paints:

• ocher (yellow tint);
• umber (greenish brown);
• red lead (orange);
• mummy (red-brown);
• chromium oxide (green);
• titanium dioxide (white);
• lithopone (white);
• ultramarine (blue).

Pigments are used for preparation

To prepare lime paints good quality, it is not recommended to add pigment in its pure form - powder. It is first diluted with water to obtain a paste. Then the pigment paste is allowed to infuse for about 24 hours. And only after this the dye can be added to the solution. This is because grains of pigments often do not dissolve well and can drag on the brush, forming unsightly streaks of color.

How to apply the composition to the surface according to all the rules

Instructions on how to whitewash walls with lime vary widely. The thing is that each master has his own recipe for a lime mixture, his own tool, and therefore his own technique. But you can try to combine the fundamental points into one algorithm. The result is a universal method, which everyone has the right to supplement or slightly adjust depending on the situation.

A roller is suitable for the ceiling

Is surface preparation necessary?

If the task is to quickly whitewash the walls and the decorative side of the issue does not really concern you, you can skip the preparation stage altogether. In fact, you can whitewash directly on top of other coatings without worrying that the result will not live up to expectations. But if the walls are covered with adhesive paint, then you need to remove it first.

If speed is not your priority, then it is better to prepare the surface for applying lime mortar. This way the result will be more accurate. The old whitewash is washed off, the swollen areas on the plaster are removed, sanded, and puttied. The same applies to cracks, if any.

Preparing the ceiling for whitewashing

Plain water is used as a primer. The surface is slightly wetted for better contact. And if the mixture contains one or more of the additives listed above, then adhesion will be even better.

It is important to protect all other surfaces from accidental contact with lime. All furniture, if it cannot be removed from the room, the floors and walls are covered with plastic film. The worker must wear a protective suit, gloves, goggles and a mask for personal protection.

A few secrets for uniform application

The application process is not particularly difficult. A brush or paint brush is dipped into a container of whitewash and the solution is applied to the walls or ceiling thin layer. For ceilings, it is better to use a tool with a long handle. You can make it yourself. This will make your work easier and eliminate the need to climb on unstable structures made from tables and chairs.

Direction of movement of the brush or roller

Apply whitewash in several layers - 2-3. Each layer must be applied perpendicular to the previous one. This way the coating will be more uniform and there will be no streaks or thickening. There are often unbleached areas in the corners. In these places it is better to go through the brush again.

It is necessary to maintain a time interval between applying layers. The previous layer must dry completely. This will happen much faster if the layers are thin. The thinnest and most uniform layer will be obtained when using an electric spray gun. The lime mixture is poured into the tank and sprayed onto the surface in tiny drops. This eliminates the occurrence of divorces.

Spray gun - a solution to many problems

Despite the fact that the process of whitewashing walls and ceilings with lime is not difficult, for those who are faced with this for the first time, it may seem like an impossible task. Especially when it comes to high ceiling or extensive work over large areas. It's never too late to turn to a master - a professional in his field. He can easily do this job efficiently and much faster than a beginner.

Video: Quick repair cellars