How to make a curved plasterboard ceiling. Installation of curved and figured plasterboard ceilings

Homeowners are increasingly less likely to resort to the labor-intensive process of leveling surfaces when making repairs. And not because the walls and ceilings in our home have become smoother. There is simply a cleaner and simpler way - to cover them with dry plaster, or drywall, as it is now called. And you will get it perfect flat surface, which can be decorated in any way you like - whitewash, paint, wallpaper or tile.

The designers found this boring, and they began to create unusual volumetric structures indoors. This could be a niche decorative partition, arch or wave on a plasterboard ceiling.

Ceilings, in particular, are given special attention. The main feature here is the incorrect geometry of the structure. Human imagination is simply inexhaustible, so no two identical curved ceilings can be found.

Surely you will ask the question: “How can you smoothly bend a hard and brittle sheet?” We will try to answer this and many other questions in as much detail as possible.

Design features

With the introduction of new technologies in the production of curved forms, creating a design of the desired configuration is becoming easier. A short instruction will help you, if desired, make a curved one yourself.

In addition to being very beautiful, this form of ceiling also has practical advantages. Intermittent surfaces muffle sounds and create light compositions. You can, on the contrary, amplify the sound and make it directional by placing concave surfaces in a certain order.
Designers use this technique when creating ceilings in concert and theater halls. Proper illumination of the design lines makes an unforgettable impression and makes the ceiling simply fabulous, as in the photo below.

Installation of plasterboard ceilings, curved and simple geometric shapes, is sometimes the only the right decision For office premises large area, with a lot of equipment and engineering communications.
They can be easily hidden and still be accessible. Due to the natural fire resistance of gypsum, in the event of a fire, the fire will not spread across the ceiling, and communications will not be damaged.

To help the employee

What’s especially nice is to create such complex shapes can be done directly at the installation site, using only a small set of tools.

To fasten a metal profile using the cutting and bending method, you will need a tool called a cutter. The connection is made without the use of screws, and is used in combination with guide profiles. They are used during installation.

To make a hole in the gypsum board for wiring, use feather drills 20 mm, while larger ones already require crown attachments of the required diameter.

An edge planer (rasp) is simply necessary to finish the sheet to the right size or leveling. Mounted on the steel body of the plane cutting blade, reminiscent of a kitchen grater.

Installation of curved plasterboard ceilings, or rather, the creation of shaped surfaces wet method, impossible without a needle roller. With its help, the gypsum board sheet is perforated, which allows it to be thoroughly saturated with water and bent to the desired radius. To better understand how this is done, it is worth watching the video.

You will also need a mounting support, which is a lever with a lock. Craftsmen rarely work with it, but the device is very convenient.

Device (handle) for carrying sheet material makes this process very easy and can be used in pairs.
Well, where would we be without a hammer drill, a screwdriver, a utility knife, measuring tools, a hammer cord and a laser or water level - any builder always has them at hand.

Installation features

Bending sheets to obtain an element of any complexity is done in the same way, only the frame designs differ significantly. Before you start bending the gypsum board, you must first make a template from the same drywall and metal profile.

Its main parts are cut out according to markings with a slightly smaller radius than needed for a curved surface.

There are two technologies for making bent forms from plasterboard: dry and wet. Each of these technologies allows for different bending radii. The price of such work directly depends on its labor intensity and complexity of installation.

Wet technology

IN wet technology The natural plasticity of gypsum in a wet state is used. The moistened sheet is given the desired shape, which is retained upon subsequent drying.

For the manufacture of curved forms, it is recommended to use sheets with a width of no more than 60 cm. Naturally, the minimum possible bending radius directly depends on the thickness of the gypsum board, for example: with a thickness of 9 mm R = 50 cm, with a thickness of 12.5 mm R = 100 cm.
For large volumes, when a team of several people is working, it is advisable to make a couple of templates, even if the bending radius is the same. And if there are several radii, then there should be the same number of templates.

The plasterboard blank is placed on a flat surface and the back side is thoroughly treated with a needle roller.

Afterwards it is soaked in water. While the sheet is not dry, it is carefully laid on the template and very carefully and smoothly bent, fixing the edges with clamps through the rail.

The part is left to dry, after which it takes the required form.

Advice! By the way, if you use fiberglass-reinforced gypsum board, you can completely abandon the templates, because such a sheet bends very well without additional tricks. Reinforced plasterboard is stronger and thinner, only 0.65 cm thick. It is more expensive than conventional plasterboard, but it bends well using the dry method. Some designs may require the use of double sheets.

Dry bending

Using dry technology, small radius bends are created:

When dry bending a sheet, you do not need a needle roller, but hand router. Along the length of the sheet, on the side that will be convex, cuts are made at the necessary intervals.
Unlike the previous option, the sheet is immediately ready for installation, but to hide its angularity you will have to try during puttying.
Only when all the ceiling parts are made do they begin to install them on the frame.

Some features of the frame

Frame for suspended ceilings assembled from profiles PP 60/27 and PPN 27/28. To obtain a curved surface, the profile notched on the sides is bent to the required radius.

Curved PPN profiles (cut on one side and with the base) are attached to the floor slab using anchor wedges according to the intended markings. From them, sections of the PP profile are lowered down, with a length equal to the height of the box. The same bent PPNs are screwed onto them from below, but now they must have both sides cut through.
We install a guide profile near the wall, level. Now we can fill the frame with load-bearing parts to which the drywall will be screwed. The pitch of the profiles must be a multiple of the sheet size.
All sheet joints must necessarily fall on the profiles.
First, the sheets of the first ceiling level are hemmed, then the rest.

You should be careful when working with bent parts, especially milled ones, as they can tear under their own weight, so an extra pair of hands won’t hurt in this matter.

The seams are sealed as usual; if necessary, the entire surface is puttied. And now, the wave of plasterboard on the ceiling is already pleasing to the eye.

All that remains is the finishing work, and that’s a completely different story. A little patience - and now you are admiring beautiful design your home, regardless of whether you made this beauty with your own hands or turned to the help of specialists.

One of the useful and advantageous properties of drywall (gypsum plasterboard) is its flexibility. For designers, this material is a real find. And although the technology for bending drywall is simple, it still has its secrets.

With the spread of plasterboard, interiors are no longer purely rectangular and even. According to the designer's plan, the wall or ceiling can be curved in almost any way. Arches, curved partitions, semicircular niches and even columns - all this has become more accessible, more realistic and cheaper thanks to gypsum boards.

Drywall has become so widespread today that it is present in every home today. But let us remember: drywall is a layer of modified gypsum, lined on both sides with special cardboard - that’s all.

Background information: the width of plasterboard sheets is standard - 120 cm (less often 125 cm). The material is available in several lengths: 200; 240; 250; 260; 280; 300 cm.

Drywall is produced exclusively in factory conditions in strict accordance with technology and high accuracy sizes. Plasterboard structures are environmentally friendly, reliable, and also very attractive in terms of technical and economic parameters.

When dry, gypsum plasterboard is subject to slight bending, beyond which it breaks. The critical “dry” bend is determined by the degree of moisture of the material. If drywall is moistened, its plasticity increases sharply, and after drying it retains new uniform and restores its physical and mechanical parameters.

When making structures from plasterboard sheets, it is very important to follow all the manufacturer’s recommendations without exception. Both the quality of the design and its durability will depend on this.

The most complex structures using gypsum boards are curved partitions and volumetric interior elements. In both cases, it becomes necessary to create curved planes. This can be done in two ways: wet and dry. In the first case, a sheet of drywall is moistened and fixed to the finished curvilinear pattern; in the second, multiple parallel slots are made on one side of the sheet, due to which mainly one of the layers of cardboard is involved in the bending. Subsequently, the slots are filled gypsum plaster. These methods have their purpose and can be rationally used in certain cases, which will be discussed further.

GKL wet bending technology

The minimum radius of “wet” bending of plasterboard sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm is 100 cm. Thus, the length of the arc when bending 90° (quarter circle) will be 1.57 m. Thinner sheets can bend with a smaller radius.

Before bending drywall, you need to make templates or assemble the frame of the structure on which it will be mounted. The main rule here is: do not cross the minimum radius line.

Curvilinear frame plasterboard structures consists of curved guides and transverse rigid elements, which, as a rule, are parallel to each other. The profile guides are cut in the right places to compensate for bends.

Plasterboard sheets can only be bent contrary to their length. Before bending, one of the cardboard surfaces, which will form the inner radius, is perforated with a special needle roller. At the next stage, the sheet is generously moistened with water using a foam sponge. The depth of impregnation is clearly visible on the cut of the sheet; moisture should penetrate at least a third of the depth. The soaked sheet of drywall is slowly applied to the template and secured with tape. In this position, the leaf dries out and no longer changes its shape. It is important to bend the gypsum board in such a way that the perforated side is compressed and not stretched (i.e., bending should be done with the edges towards the perforation).

Dry bending technology

When bending using the dry method, you can use plasterboard with fiberglass reinforcement. It does not require pre-soaking; more flexible, but more expensive than usual. The thickness of this material is only 6.5 mm, so in curved structures it is often necessary to use double sheets, and this will cost even more.

Meanwhile, the dry method allows you to abandon the production of a template, and, if necessary, part of the frame, if gypsum board with a thickness of 12.5 mm or more is used. Depending on the bend radius, cuts are made on the drywall at the required intervals. The best way to do this is with a hand router, where the depth is precisely set, since it is very important not to cut through the opposite layer of cardboard. The cuts are made on the side that will be convex.

After the cut sheet is installed in place and fixed with self-tapping screws, all separated particles of gypsum are removed from the cuts. Then, the side with the slots is primed and puttied using reinforcing fiberglass mesh. After the leveling layer has dried, the surface is carefully sanded. Some craftsmen attach an already curved and finished sheet to the frame. Sometimes this is the only way to create a curved surface.

The metal frame of the partition is sheathed on both sides, and inside for sound insulation is located mineral wool or fiberglass spatula. Electrical wiring and, if necessary, other communications are also laid inside the partition. If necessary, make the partition thicker, profile frame make it double.

For the manufacture of curved structures, there is also a special arched plasterboard. This material has no cardboard lining and consists only of fiberglass reinforced gypsum. The advantage of arched drywall is that it can be attached to a curved frame without pre-soaking or cutting. Its sheets have a size of 240x120 cm and a thickness of 6 mm. The bending radius is allowed by the manufacturer up to 60 cm, if bent with the front side inward. For reverse bending, the minimum radius is 100 cm. It is known from practice that arched plasterboard under normal temperature and humidity conditions is capable of bending with its front side inward up to a radius of 30 cm.

Curvilinear partition frame

Curvilinear partitions are assembled on a frame made of metal profiles. The procedure for constructing the frame is as follows:

Without reducing the minimum permissible radii, the contours of the future partition are marked on the floor, and after that this contour is transferred to the ceiling using a long strip and building level or a plumb line;
the guide profiles are given the required curvature using parallel cuts made with metal scissors;
to improve sound insulation, soundproofing tape is laid between the base profile and the floor;
guide profiles are attached to the floor and ceiling with dowels in increments of 30 cm (the caps of the plastic plugs remain on top of the profile);
vertical CW frame profiles are installed in increments of 30 cm or more often if the arc has a small radius;
gypsum board joints must necessarily fall on vertical profiles. Otherwise, the back side of the drywall will have to be reinforced with a 10-centimeter metal strip. The pitch of the mounting screws (TN25) is 25 cm, and the distance from the edge is at least 1 cm;
the seams between the sheets of drywall are sealed with a special putty and reinforced with fiberglass mesh;
the seams are sanded and, if necessary, leveled with gypsum putty.

“Correct” putties

A typical mistake when working with plasterboard boards is the incorrect use of putty compounds.
All gypsum board manufacturers also offer their own lines of materials for wet finishing, including special putties for sealing seams. Such mixtures, when frozen, are characterized by high strength and sufficient elasticity. Accordingly, they are more expensive than conventional gypsum putties.

However, not all consumers listen to the opinions of experts. Many people try to replace the recommended materials with homemade mixtures, which are cheaper but do not have all the necessary properties. For example, the seams are sealed with a mixture of universal putty and PVA glue. As a result, after some time, cracks appear along the seams, which can only be eliminated by redoing the entire work again, but using branded materials.

Recommended joint fillers according to your needs technical specifications differ significantly from materials intended for leveling surfaces. Cheap surrogates will not bring any savings. However special requirements are applied not only to joint putties, but also to finishing ones. They must ensure uniform water absorption to the surfaces so that after painting the color does not differ in different areas. With ordinary putty compounds it is difficult to achieve uniformity even with repeated painting.

The high quality of the finished plasterboard surface is achieved using the line of materials offered by the manufacturer. It is especially important that exactly the finishing materials(drywall can be anything). The use of materials from lines of different manufacturers does not guarantee 100% quality, since modifying additives from different systems may conflict with each other.

A real decoration ceiling surface It can be a shaped structure made of plasterboard, tension fabric, or a combination of these two materials. The figured ceiling has its own characteristics and advantages. In addition, there are certain types of figured plasterboard ceilings. We will tell you about the installation sequence of this ceiling covering.

Features and advantages of figured ceilings

Curly ceilings made of plasterboard - these are multi-level structures with curved details that repeat geometric shapes and objects. The texture and colors of the levels are usually different. Multi-level suspended ceilings also classified as figured structures, because the tiers also differ in color and surface texture.

Such coatings are popular due to their many advantages, including the following:

The main advantage is the aesthetic appeal of the coating.
A figured plasterboard ceiling visually expands the space of the room. If you choose the right color and texture of the coating, the room will appear taller. However, in any case, it is not recommended to install them in a room less than three meters high.
The levels of the ceiling structure divide the room into separate functional areas.
A suspended covering made of any materials hides defects in the foundation, utilities and building structures.
Possibility of installing mounted, built-in and hidden lighting.
Subject to compliance with installation technology and making the right choice materials, ceiling structures will last for many years.
Behind the ceiling surface you can install thermal insulation material and increase the sound insulation of the room, as well as reduce heat loss.

The disadvantages of such ceiling structures include installation difficulties and high costs for purchasing materials. The main disadvantage of such ceilings is the reduction in the height of the room. The entire covering is lowered by 10-20 cm, which is for a low room in apartment building a significant minus.

Important! The weight of the entire structure is significant, so it will significantly weigh down the ceiling. This must be taken into account when installing a ceiling to a dilapidated wooden floor.

Varieties of figured gypsum plasterboard coverings

There are the following types of figured ceilings:

Levels with rectangular or square configuration usually located in the central part of the room. This is the highest tier of the ceiling. Along the perimeter of the room there is a lower level, which, like a frame, encircles the room. IN large rooms such designs can be divided into several squares or rectangles. Most often, built-in lamps are mounted in the lower tier around the perimeter. Sometimes hidden lighting is installed in the box.
Oval and semicircular configuration levels are used in bedrooms, children's rooms and living rooms. Usually the figured part is located above the sleeping area, seating area or dining area.
There are many variations of curved and wavy coatings. They can border the room or divide it into separate functional areas.
Surfaces that repeat the shape of certain objects (butterflies, flowers) or geometric shapes, perform exclusively decorative functions or serve as a basis for lighting sources ( LED strips, chandeliers and spotlights).

Marking the ceiling for a figured structure

Installation of a figured plasterboard ceiling begins with preparing the base surface and marking it. The main ceiling does not require special preparation. The old coating, which holds well, does not need to be dismantled. If there are gaps or cracks in the ceiling, they are sealed with repair mortar. Areas with mold are treated with antiseptic compounds.

After this, the room is marked. To do this, draw a diagram of the future coating on paper:

First, draw a floor plan based on measurements. The schematic plan is divided into cells with dimensions of 60x60 cm on a scale. This is the step of installing the metal frame profiles.
Using a colored pencil, draw the boundaries of the curly coating. You can use the corners of the room on the plan or its center as reference points. To get a wavy line, draw several conjugate circles.
Place dots on the markings in increments of 20-40 cm. In these places, hangers will be attached to the ceiling.
Mark the installation locations for lighting fixtures and wiring.

Now we transfer the diagram to the base ceiling. To do this, we draw our covering with chalk on the floor of the room. Next, the location lines of each level are drawn on the walls of the room. To do this, use water or laser level. Minimum distance between the top tier and the ceiling – 40-100 mm. Optimal height level difference – 50 mm.

To mark, measure the height of all corners in the room and select the lowest. From it set aside the height to which each level descends. Using a level, we transfer the marks to the remaining corners. We connect all the marks with lines on the walls. On the ceiling surface we mark the installation locations of the suspensions.

We draw a level difference boundary on the ceiling. To do this, we use reference points (corners or center of the room). We apply markings under the frame. The middle of the profile should run along this line.

Advice! To apply markings, make a large compass. To do this, screw a screw into the ceiling in the center of the intended circle. Tie a thread with a pencil at the end to it. With this compass you can draw large circles.

Installation of supporting frame

To assemble the frame you will need a ceiling, guide and arch profile. The first of them is the main structural element; all the sheathing lintels are assembled from it. The guide profile is attached to the walls and serves as the basis for fixing the ceiling slats. An arched profile is needed to create curved surfaces. Instead of an arched rail, you can use a ceiling profile with notched shelves.

In addition to profiles, to assemble the frame you will need screws with dowels, U-shaped hangers, self-tapping screws, connectors and “crabs”. The following tools are also needed for work:

Bulgarian;
construction level;
roulette;
screwdriver;
ladder;
hammer drill

The frame is assembled in the following order:

According to the markings on the walls of the room, we drill holes in increments of 50 cm and insert dowels into them. We do the same with markings for suspensions on the ceiling.
We attach guide profiles to the horizontal lines on the walls. We connect all the elements using a corner connector.
We attach U-shaped hangers to the ceiling and bend their edges.
We cut the ceiling profiles to the required length and insert them into the guide rails on the walls. In the middle part of the slats we attach them to the ceiling suspensions using short self-tapping screws.
We install jumpers on each side of the longitudinal profiles. We attach them to the main rail with a “crab” connector.
We cut one ceiling profile into short sections to form racks at the point of level difference. They are attached to the frame of the upper tier using a multi-level connector.
Now we make the border of the lower tier. To make a curved border, we make cuts on the profile flanges with equal spacing. Bend the element to get the desired shape. We attach the curved product using connectors to the vertical posts.
Further between curved profile We install longitudinal ceiling slats on the lower level and the guide on the wall. They can be attached to hangers that are fixed to the upper level frame.
We mount the jumpers on the sheathing of the lower tier.

Important! During installation combined ceilings or some types of gypsum plasterboard coverings, the frame is made only for the lower tier. The upper level is a tension panel or a smooth plastered surface.

Fastening drywall

Before installation of gypsum boards begins, power supply networks are laid under the ceiling, bases for lamps and other utilities are installed. Then they begin to cover the frame with plasterboard.

The easiest way is to mount the sheets on horizontal planes. To do this, the sheet is pressed against the frame with clamps and screwed with self-tapping screws. The outer sheets are cut to the required width or in accordance with the configuration of the level boundary. We screw the fasteners along the edge of the sheet at its location above the profile in increments of 15-20 cm.

Important! Don’t forget to make holes for spotlights in advance.

It is somewhat more difficult to make curved planes from plasterboard. To bend a sheet, you can use one of two methods:

On the back side of the material, make cuts to 1/3 of the sheet thickness. They are performed in equal steps. After this, the product can be bent in a given direction.
They go over the inside of the gypsum boards with a spiked roller to make holes in the cardboard. Then the surface is moistened with water and the material is waited for to become wet. The sheet can then be bent and attached to the frame.

After installing all the slabs, the joints between the sheets and the places where the fasteners are installed are puttied. The seams are additionally reinforced with serpyanka. If the ceiling is to be painted, the entire surface is puttied. Then the coating is primed, and after it dries, proceed to finishing wallpaper or painting.

The wave on the plasterboard ceiling makes the design of the room unique and memorable. At the same time, we still have space to mount hidden lamps or hide wiring, ventilation and gas pipes.

In the article we will begin to understand how such a ceiling is mounted.

Let's start by marking the pattern of the future wave on the ceiling.

Marking

A wave-shaped ceiling implies the presence of at least two levels that have a noticeable difference in height relative to each other.

The marking is ideally applied twice:

On. The location of the future height difference will allow us to more accurately plan the location of profiles and sheets of the first level of the ceiling.
On first level sheets. It is to them that the profile will be attached, which forms a curved surface.

What and how to apply markings?

Compass

Any curved surface can be composed of arcs - parts of circles. To draw these arcs, use any improvised compass. One of the simplest options is a section of profile secured with a self-tapping screw with a pencil attached to the free end.

Tip: an even simpler method is a combination of a self-tapping screw in the ceiling, a cord and a pencil. The stretched cord will become the radius of the marked circle.

The arcs are then connected by straight lines - and you can proceed to installing the profile.

By points

The method is used when marking waves with a very large radius in large areas. Several dozen points are marked and connected by a smooth line.

Sample

It is much more convenient to mark on the floor. To create a template, we again use a compass, a steel meter (or just a section of profile) and a sheet of cardboard or hardboard as template material.

In this case, the line of the future wave can easily be applied twice - on the ceiling and on the ceiling of the first level.

By eye

Initially, it is assumed that the plasterboard wave will have an irregular, asymmetrical shape. Therefore, a freehand drawn curve fits the concept perfectly; inevitable flaws will be eliminated with putty.

Difference between waves

The average height of the difference is between 10-15 centimeters. With a larger difference vertical surfaces can be used to place additional spotlights; on the other hand, not everywhere the height of the room allows such liberties.

The minimum height of the difference is 10-12 millimeters and is achieved by sewing two (or more) sheets of drywall in a row. Even such a slight difference will already make the ceiling voluminous.

The simplest way to make a ceiling in relief is to sew on a template cut out additional sheet drywall

Basic Operations

How are multi-level and curved plasterboard ceilings installed?

What is the procedure?

The first level frame is made traditionally. The only subtlety is that where the wave will pass, they are mounted more often than usual, at a distance of no more than 40 centimeters from each other.
A wave pattern previously applied to the ceiling will help you get your bearings.

The outermost profile, located closer than the others to the height difference boundary, is attached to the ceiling with suspensions more often than the others. Preferably every half meter.

Ceiling sheets of the first level are hemmed. They must extend beyond the wave line.
Self-tapping screws are located every 25 centimeters; near the wave line it is better to maintain a distance of 15 centimeters.
A line is drawn on the ceiling of the first level, marking the boundary of the wave.
A bent profile is attached to it. For bending, it is cut with inside future wave; U-shaped slots are cut in the inner wall.
The profile is attached with self-tapping screws to the ceiling profiles of the first level. Do not forget to retreat from the wave line a distance equal to the thickness of the drywall: the profile will have to be sewn up.

Advice: where there are no profiles, it is advisable to place them on top plasterboard sheet pieces of plywood, fiberboard or profile that will distribute the load and prevent the screws from breaking out of the sheet.

Then the ceiling frame of the second level is mounted on hangers. The distance between profiles and hangers can be standard if the curved plasterboard ceiling is two-level; if a third level is planned, then the profiles should be mounted and secured with suspensions at the line of the next wave, again more often.
The ceiling is hemmed. When cutting sheets, leave an extra 1-1.5 centimeters; final adjustment It is better to make it in size after the curved surface has been sewn up.
The lower profile is attached along the wave line on the ceiling of the second level. Exactly under the top one, without the slightest displacement.
Link two profiles vertical posts It is desirable only in cases where the curved ceiling has a height difference of more than 20 centimeters or the edge of the wave is far from the nearest suspension.

Vertical surfaces are covered with plasterboard. For curved surfaces, either a special arched sheet 6.5 millimeters thick is used, or regular sheet cut with outside bending The smaller the bending radius of the sheet, the more cuts there should be.

Please note: when you install a plasterboard ceiling, the wave may have bends with a radius of 3-4 meters.

In this case, the sheet is simply moistened with plenty of water and after a few hours it is attached tightly, without cuts.

Finally, the ceiling is plastered (see). Both gypsum and acrylic putty. After they have completely dried, you can proceed to painting the surface.

Conclusion

Creating curved surfaces requires some skill and may seem difficult at first. Well, everything is done for the first time. Good luck with the renovation!

Curved plasterboard ceilings require special skills and a thoughtful approach to work. It is necessary not only to have a good understanding of the properties of the material used building material, but also have good artistic taste. This ceiling is ideal for those who want an extraordinary design for their room.

Graceful curved lines are sure to attract attention and will not leave guests indifferent. The design of the room acquires individuality and character if curved plasterboard ceilings are used. By combining with various forms of structures combined into a common composition, you can change the perception of the room, making it more voluminous. By adding original lamps, you can certainly turn an ordinary house into a real fairy-tale palace.

Curved ceilings are complex structures with differences in height, which will help hide passing communications and give the room a unique and elegant look.

Required tools and materials

In order to minimize upcoming costs, it is best to write a list of everything you need in advance. After which you can buy the missing items at the nearest store. Remember that retail outlets usually provide good discounts to wholesale buyers. Master to work with plasterboard ceilings will definitely need:

Guide profile 28×27 millimeters.
Profile for the ceiling 60×27 millimeters.
Sealing tape ensuring a secure fit of the profile to the wall
Several anchor bots and wedges.
Make sure that the dowel nails have wide heads with a seal.
The painting cord will help you apply perfectly straight lines to the walls and ceiling when marking.
Two meter aluminum rule.
Construction level.
Drywall sheets for finishing works.
Putty will help seal seams and joints.
Reinforcing tape is necessary to strengthen the joints of the slabs and prevent the appearance of cracks.
Tape measures, hammers, screwdrivers, spatulas, chisels, stationery knives with a spare blade.
Metal scissors.
Hammer drill, screwdriver, jigsaw.
Hacksaws and metal files.
A solid supply of self-tapping screws with large heads and sealant for installing drywall.
Primer on acrylic base. Construction plumb.
A water level can be made from a pair of syringes and a long rubber tube.
Connecting strips, straight hangers and construction “crabs” in the right quantity.
Sound and heat insulation products.

Marking a curved ceiling

Geometric marking work complex structures is radically different from working with simple, flat plasterboard ceilings.

To perform complex markings efficiently, the master needs:

A compass that helps to draw lines of arcs and circles on the surface of drywall. As a rule, it is made from a piece of lath or profile with a pencil attached to one end and a screw to the other. You can use a regular cord attached to a screw screwed into the surface of the ceiling.
To make the markings you will definitely need a pencil or marker.
To make the markings accurate, you need to have a tape measure, a square and a ruler on hand.
Templates for applying a pattern to the ceiling are made from thick cardboard in advance and then simply outlined with a pencil.

When marking, it is necessary to connect all the arcs with straight segments.

Marking using a compass

A screw is screwed into the surface of the drywall, to which a string is attached with a pencil attached to the end. This simple design makes it possible to create perfect semicircles or circles. In addition, by reducing the length of the string, you can make several wavy lines running sequentially one after another.

Having applied several successive points to the surface, you can smoothly connect them with a pencil. In this case, it is necessary that the lines are not interrupted and are clearly visible. If the pattern is applied to a concrete surface or drywall with a special protective coating It is best to use a marker that leaves a bright mark.

Performing markup using a template

You need to select a design and make a template from thick cardboard. A complex pattern can be made up of several segments that are made on the floor. Attached to the ceiling surface ready-made template, traced around the edge with a pencil.
The advantage of this type of marking is that the lines are drawn quickly and clearly, and you can trace them several times with a marker to obtain a better image.

Templates can be made of thick paper, plywood, plywood sheets or carbonite, which guarantees high quality of the applied pattern.

Marking by eye

The curve is drawn by hand, and any resulting irregularities can be corrected using putty. This type of design is well suited for creating unique compositions and requires extraordinary talent and excellent taste.

Level difference

Height differences are adjusted depending on the height of the ceilings in the building. Most often they fluctuate between ten and thirty centimeters. If the room has low ceilings, then the differences should not exceed ten centimeters. In this case, a patch of several sheets of drywall is sufficient.

Sewing the end of the wave

In order to perform high-quality lining of the end of the structure, the master can choose one of two existing methods.

Curved plasterboard ceilings perfect way create a unique bright interior in your home. Using modern methods lighting, they will help make the room unique and bright. This technology is suitable for finishing work in offices, administrative buildings, houses, cottages and apartments. Having patience and skill, you can do the work yourself, but it is better to use the services of a master, which guarantees the durability and strength of the structure.

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