Installing a heated floor in a house on the ground requires a carefully planned approach. In most cases it is required phased implementation work: at the first stage, pour rough screed and wait for it to ripen; at the second stage, the remaining layers are laid.

Design for a private house

Neglecting this rule may cause negative consequences. This is explained by the constant movement of the soil and, accordingly, all the layers located above. Movements can be observed even on compacted and compacted soil, which for a long time lay without load.

After laying a heated floor cake, which has a fairly impressive mass, cracks may form due to subsidence. The most negative consequence There may be a break in the elements of the heated floor, that is, all the costs for its arrangement will be in vain.

Installation of a warm water floor on the ground

At the first stage, it is necessary to determine the level to which the excavation will be carried out. It is necessary to remove the top fertile layer in any case, since plant residues tend to decompose and smell unpleasant. Regardless of whether the subfloor is poured or not, top layer soil needs to be removed.

In addition, the fertile layer is less dense due to the presence of living beings and microorganisms in it, so under the weight of the layers of water-heated floor it will begin to sag. As a result, the overlying layers will again suffer.

The height of the heated floor pie along the ground can be more than 20 cm, so the countdown must begin from the mark where the finished floor will be located. Place a corresponding mark at this point and measure the required depth. In this case, it is better to mark the level of each layer so that it is easier to navigate during the arrangement process.

Step by step guide

To carry out the process efficiently, it is necessary to strictly follow the rules for installing a heated floor on the ground:

Remove the top fertile layer, remove large debris and stones. Level and compact the bottom of the resulting pit. This will be the basis for the layers being laid, so it is best to check the level using a level.
Next, a layer of sand is poured, and any sand is suitable for filling. It must be compacted well and leveled.
The next layer in the composition of a warm floor with water heating is expanded clay or crushed stone. However, it should be remembered that crushed stone has lower thermal conductivity. It is better to take small or medium-sized stones. It takes a long time to compact until the surface becomes almost monolithic.
Now it’s the turn of the preliminary screed, for the manufacture of which you can use two options. In the first case, sand and crushed stone are spilled with a liquid solution of sand and cement in a ratio of 2:1. In the second case, a rough screed 5-7 cm thick is poured with reinforcing mesh laid. This option is considered more reliable, capable of withstanding significant loads.
After the screed has set and hardened concrete mortar proceed to laying the waterproofing layer. In most cases, polyethylene film 200 microns thick, laid in two layers, is used for this.
Expanded polystyrene slabs are laid on the waterproofing; the joints must be taped to prevent leakage of the solution.
Metallized waterproofing must be laid on top.
Then they begin installing the “warm floor” system. Install fasteners, lay cable and heating tubes.
The entire structure of the heated floor on the ground is filled with reinforced heated floor screed.

Before making a heated floor in a private house, you need to take into account all the nuances. The thickness of each layer is determined climatic conditions region, colder areas require thick layers of cake to southern regions the layers can have a thickness of 2 to 5 cm. Careful compaction and leveling of the layers is the key to a better and more durable heated floor. To compact layers of heated floors on the ground with your own hands, you can use hand tools, however, the mechanized process allows for maximum efficiency.

Special attention deserves thermal insulation material. When deciding how to make a heated floor on the ground, it is recommended to use polystyrene foam boards with a density higher than 35 kg/m3. The thickness of the thermal insulation layer is also determined by the climatic conditions of the area. In the northern regions, thermal insulation is laid with a thickness of 10 cm or more. In this case, installation can be carried out in two layers with the seams of the lower row overlapping with upper slabs. The joints of the plates must be taped.

Enough important point in the scheme for arranging a water heated floor is waterproofing and thermal insulation of the foundation. It is expected that the surface of the base will be treated with waterproofing material before the start of all work. In addition, it is recommended to lay polystyrene foam boards around the perimeter, which will become an obstacle to the path of cold air inside.

How to make a heated floor on the ground with a high groundwater level

At high level groundwater It is necessary not only to correctly position the layers of the heated floor. It is very important to organize the drainage of water from the foundation.

For floors on the ground with a warm water floor, the level of which is located below the passage of groundwater, it is necessary to arrange drainage. In this case, make at least 30 cm below the floor level drainage system. They pour on the bottom river sand or free soil mixed with crushed stone.

The material is poured in layers of no more than 10 cm, each layer is generously moistened with water and compacted thoroughly. In most cases, three layers are enough, but more can be added if necessary. Geological textiles are laid on top of the sand or soil, which prevents water from penetrating the heated floor layers. Geotextiles are a modern material characterized by high tensile strength and resistance to damage by rodents. In addition, it is able to compensate for the mechanical loads that will be exerted on the heated floor on the ground in a private house.

Features of the floor layer scheme

Also, we must not forget about the foundation, it can be processed bitumen mastic or other waterproofing materials and impregnations. For thermal insulation, polystyrene foam boards are laid along the internal perimeter.

Then they proceed according to the usual scheme for installing a water-heated floor on the ground. Layers of sand and crushed stone are poured and a rough screed is poured. In this case, it is better not to use the option with a liquid solution of sand and cement. A reinforced rough screed is considered more reliable.

For waterproofing with high groundwater levels plastic film It is recommended to replace them with weld-on waterproof materials or polymer membranes. The cost of these materials is higher, but the reliability and quality are at a high level.

Then do the installation thermal insulation material and a metallized water barrier. The “warm floor” system is installed according to the instructions. A metal reinforcing mesh is laid on top and the entire structure is filled with concrete screed.

The completion of all work is the installation of the finishing flooring.

Warm floors on the ground can be called complex design, the arrangement of which must be approached very responsibly. For greater reliability, you should fill in a rough screed, or, as a last resort, thoroughly compact all layers.

Your question, it almost always arises when installing both a simple floor and a heated floor on the ground. The main question is whether the waterproofing and all subsequent layers (EPS, etc.) can be laid on the backfill, or necessarily on the subfloor. Look, there are many opinions for what is possible. But we thought about it for a long time, and consulted, and came to the conclusion that it is better to lay the waterproofing (and subsequent layers) either on a rough screed, or to perform a waterproofing, and on it. Let me explain what we are basing this on. You have soil inside the box, although it was compacted, it was just lying there, without any load. Now you will add more layers, and they are also not hard, but loose. That is, the waterproofing will be between the hard eps and the bulk (albeit compacted) layer. Any movement of the layer under the waterproofing will result in the waterproofing being somehow unevenly distributed. Following micro-movements in waterproofing, there may also be micro-movements in eps. I understand that all of your top ties will be reinforced, and they will “keep” the ties from moving. But anyway, why these extra loads? But I can’t guarantee that nothing will ever move in the layers under the waterproofing :-).

By the way, you have waterproofing in your text description, but not in your drawing. If your groundwater is lower than 2 meters from the floor level, then there may be no waterproofing. Just put eps and so on. But everything I wrote above is still valid. Without a hard layer under the eps, any movement underneath it will create additional loads on the upper layers.

sand filling 50mm thick, leveled
filling of crushed stone or expanded clay 100 mm thick, and over it, or pouring a layer of crushed stone/expanded clay with a liquid cement-sand mortar ((2 parts sand to 1 part cement), or a rough screed. In total, the thickness of the crushed stone/expanded clay already spilled with the solution will be 10-12 cm. If you don’t do this pouring, then you need to make a rough screed of 5-7 cm on top of the expanded clay. Let the solution harden and lay the waterproofing and subsequent layers on top of it.
waterproofing
laying polystyrene foam blocks, a layer of 50mm blocks, 20mm blocks on top of it, for a total of 70mm
waterproofing with foil on top
fittings and underfloor heating pipes are poured into a concrete screed 100mm thick
finishing coating (tiles), about 20mm.

As for the fact that in order to fill with crushed stone it is necessary to remove the top 100 mm of soil, this requirement is apparently in order to arrange the filling on better compacted layers (not on the surface). You can do this, it will only be beneficial.

Concrete flooring on the ground in a private house is a long-known universal method arrangement of reliable and warm base. Through the use of new types of insulation, we get good thermal insulation the entire floor, which leads to reduced costs for public utilities. And also the insulation is a barrier to the penetration of moisture and the appearance of fungus and mold.

And the most important thing is that this type you can build the floor with your own hands. In this article we will analyze all the advantages and disadvantages. Let us consider in detail the arrangement of the floor on the ground.

Flooring on the ground: pros and cons

Let's start with the fact that this type of floor is a “layer cake”. And each layer has its own functions and purpose, thanks to this device, the floor on the ground has a number of advantages:

There are not many disadvantages, but they are all there:

Cannot be used on unstable soils.

How to make the correct floor structure on the ground

We will consider the correct classic floor structure, which will consist of 9 layers. We will analyze each layer separately.

It’s worth saying right away that the number of layers may vary for each master and specialist, and the materials may also differ.

This type of flooring is ideal for a strip foundation. The average thickness of the “floor pie” is approximately 60-70 cm. This should be taken into account when constructing the foundation.

If your foundation height is not enough, then select soil to a given depth. Level the surface and compact it. For convenience, a scale should be applied in the corners along the entire perimeter in 5 cm increments, this will make it more convenient to navigate the layers and levels.

It is important that for compacting soil it is best to rent a vibrating plate, since manual method It will take a lot of time and will not give the same results as a special device.

Clay. If, while digging out the soil, you reach a layer of clay, then you should not fill in a new one. The layer thickness must be at least 10 cm.

Clay is sold in bags, pour it out and wet it special solution(4 liters of water + 1 teaspoon liquid glass), and we carry out the tamping using a vibrating plate. After compacting, pour the clay layer with cement laitance (10 liters of water + 2 kg of cement).

We make sure there are no puddles. As soon as you pour this mixture onto the clay, the process of glass crystallization begins.

You shouldn’t do anything for a day; you should wait for the crystallization process to set in, and it will end in about 14-16 days. This layer prevents the main flow of water from entering the soil.

Layer of waterproofing material. The purpose of this layer is to protect the insulation from moisture. You can use roofing felt, polymer-bitumen materials, PVC membranes and polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.4 mm.

If you use roofing felt, it is preferable to lay it in two layers, on liquid bitumen. Lay waterproofing overlapping each other and on the walls.

10-15 cm between each other, and on the walls to the height of the floor level. Be sure to seal the seams with construction tape. walk on waterproofing material should be in soft shoes.

Insulation+ vapor barrier layer. Most best material for insulation it is extruded polystyrene foam (EPS). For reference, 5 cm thick EPS can replace a 70 cm layer of expanded clay.

But you can also use perlite concrete and sawdust concrete. The insulation sheets are laid without joints, so that one plane is formed.

The thickness is determined depending on the region, the recommended thickness of the insulation is 5-10 cm. Some use mats 5 cm thick, and lay two layers, with the seams offset, and the top seams are taped with special tape.

In order to remove cold bridges from the foundation or plinth, the insulation is laid vertically and secured using dowels with inside. Experts recommend insulating the base and the outside with one sheet of insulation and also securing it with dowels.

A layer of vapor barrier should be laid on top of the insulation. As vapor barrier material It is best to use PVC membranes; they do not rot and have a long service life. The disadvantage of this material is its high cost.

The main task of a vapor barrier material is to protect the insulation from the harmful alkaline effects of concrete mortar. The material is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm and glued with construction tape.

Smoothing is done using a rule or vibrating screed. As soon as the solution dries, the beacons should be removed and the cavities filled with the solution.

The entire concrete floor should be covered with film and watered periodically. In a month, the concrete will gain full strength. To pour concrete with my own hands I make a solution next line-up: cement + river sand in a ratio of 1 to 3.

In the case of using underfloor heating technology, water or electric. Be sure to install the rough floor screed on the ground.

After laying the insulation, pipes or wires are laid. Then we fill the cavities with concrete, lay the reinforcing elements and continue pouring concrete to the specified level.

The technology of floors on the ground can be used not only in brick and stone houses, but it’s the same in houses made of wood. At the right approach And correct calculations, layers do not harm wooden elements.

Finish floor covering. The resulting concrete surface is suitable for any type of finished floor covering. It all depends on your preferences and financial capabilities.

As mentioned above, the combination of components and the number of layers may vary. It all depends on your finances and capabilities.

Conclusion

As we all know, 20 to 30% of the heat can escape through the floor. In cases where there is no “warm floor” system, the floors should be as thermally insulated as possible, and this in turn increases the energy efficiency of the entire house.

The owner of a private house receives comfort, coziness and savings on utility bills. Ground floors with insulation are a highly effective and long-term choice for every owner.

You may need to install a water heated floor on the ground in your home. Subject to compliance with existing SNiP, you can carry out the work yourself, from backfilling to finishing screed, followed by finishing with the floor covering.

Is it possible to make a water floor on the ground?

The installation of a water heated floor on the ground can be done provided that the heating system installation method is used using concrete screed. Laying allows you to simultaneously achieve several goals: to make a subfloor and prepare the base for the finishing coating.

The design of a water heated floor on the ground involves carrying out work that is usually used for cooking concrete slab in industrial and residential buildings. The result of the work largely depends on the achievement of several tasks:

Providing reliable thermal insulation that prevents floor freezing.
Protecting the premises from dampness.
Preventing cracking of the slab after several years of operation.

Competent DIY installation a water floor on the ground helps to accomplish all three tasks. Installation directly on the ground is allowed in accordance with SNiP.

What kind of “pie” should be under a heated floor?

The layout of the floor on the ground is somewhat different from the usual pie used for installing a heating system on a ready-made base. The following stages of work are performed:

To make a water floor on the ground with your own hands, it will take time from 20 days to 1.5 months. You can speed up the installation process by ordering ready-made cement mixtures.

The main mistakes when installing a water floor on the ground

When performing work on bulk soil, it is easy to make mistakes that lead to the destruction of the slab in the future. Must be strictly followed step-by-step production cake of water floor heating, starting from the ground.

It would be optimal to first perform a thermal engineering calculation that allows you to accurately determine the thickness of the powder, thermal insulation and the power of the heating system.

Common mistakes during installation are:

Violations of the technology for installing a warm water floor on the ground. The absence of compensation gaps in the slab, poorly performed work on compacting the powder, incorrectly laid waterproofing, subsequently cause the screed to freeze, condensation accumulates and dampness in the room.
Be sure to sprinkle sand on the soil base before crushed stone. In this case, you can use any type of raw material, but coarse river sand will be optimal. The minimum density of soil after compaction depends on the weather and atmospheric conditions of the area and is calculated using special tables.

Self-installation of a water heating circuit on the ground is used in private houses, garages, car repair shops and other buildings. Step-by-step adherence to the installation rules will allow you to complete all the work yourself.

Schemes for installing a floor on the ground in a house, basement, garage or bathhouse

In houses without basements, the floor of the first floor can be made according to two schemes:

supported on the ground - with a screed on the ground or on joists;
supported on walls - like a ceiling over a ventilated underground.

Which of the two options will be better and easier?

In houses without a basement, floors on the ground are a popular solution for all rooms on the first floor. Floors on the ground are cheap, simple and easy to implement; they are also beneficial to install in the basement, garage, bathhouse and other utility rooms. Simple design, application modern materials, placement of a heating circuit in the floor (warm floor), such floors are made comfortable and attractively priced.

In winter, the backfill under the floor always has a positive temperature. For this reason, the soil at the base of the foundation freezes less - the risk of frost heaving of the soil is reduced. In addition, the thickness of the thermal insulation of a floor on the ground may be less than that of a floor above a ventilated underground.

It is better to abandon the floor on the ground if backfilling with soil is required to a height that is too high, more than 0.6-1 m. The costs of backfilling and soil compaction in this case may be too high.

A floor on the ground is not suitable for buildings on piles or columnar foundation with a grillage located above the ground surface.

Three basic diagrams for installing floors on the ground

In the first version concrete monolithic reinforced floor slab rests on load-bearing walls, Fig.1.

After the concrete hardens, the entire load is transferred to the walls. In this option, a monolithic reinforced concrete floor slab plays the role of a floor slab and must be designed for the standard load of the floors, have the appropriate strength and reinforcement.

The soil is actually used here only as temporary formwork during construction reinforced concrete slab ceilings This type of floor is often called a “suspended floor on the ground”.

A suspended floor on the ground has to be made if there is a high risk of shrinkage of the soil under the floor. For example, when building a house on peat bogs or when the height of the bulk soil is more than 600 mm. The thicker the backfill layer, the higher the risk of significant subsidence of the fill soil over time.

Second option - this is a floor on a foundation - a slab, when reinforced concrete monolithic slab, poured onto the ground over the entire area of the building, serves as a support for the walls and a base for the floor, Fig.2.

Third option provides for the installation of a monolithic concrete slab or laying wooden logs in between load-bearing walls supported on bulk soil.

Here the slab or floor joists are not connected to the walls. The load of the floor is completely transferred to the bulk soil, Fig.3.

It is the latter option that is correctly called a floor on the ground, which is what our story will be about.

Ground floors must provide:

thermal insulation of premises in order to save energy;
comfortable hygienic conditions for people;
protection against penetration of ground moisture and gases - radioactive radon - into premises;
prevent the accumulation of water vapor condensation inside the floor structure;
reduce the transmission of impact noise to adjacent rooms along the building structures.

Backfilling the soil cushion for the floor on the ground

The surface of the future floor is raised to the required height by installing a cushion of non-heaving soil.

Before starting work on backfilling, be sure to remove the top soil layer with vegetation. If this is not done, the floor will begin to settle over time.

Any soil that can be easily compacted can be used as a material for constructing a cushion: sand, fine crushed stone, sand and gravel mixture, and at low groundwater levels - sandy loam and loam. It is beneficial to use the soil remaining on the site from the well and (except for peat and black soil).

The cushion soil is carefully compacted layer by layer (no thicker than 15 cm.) by compacting and pouring water onto the soil. The degree of soil compaction will be higher if mechanical compaction is used.

Large crushed stones should not be placed in the cushion, broken brick, pieces of concrete. There will still be voids between large fragments.

The thickness of the bulk soil cushion is recommended to be in the range of 300-600 mm. Compact the fill soil until natural soil still fails. Therefore, the soil will settle over time. A thick layer of fill soil can cause the floor to settle too much and unevenly.

To protect against ground gases - radioactive radon, it is recommended to make a layer of compacted crushed stone or expanded clay in the cushion. This underlying captage layer is made 20 cm thick. The content of particles smaller than 4 mm this layer should contain no more than 10% by weight. The filtration layer must be ventilated.

The top layer of expanded clay, in addition to protecting against gases, will serve additional thermal insulation for the floor. For example, a layer of expanded clay 18 cm. corresponds to 50 in terms of heat-saving ability mm. polystyrene foam To protect against crushing of insulation boards and waterproofing films, which in some floor designs are laid directly on the backfill, a leveling layer of sand is poured on top of the compacted layer of crushed stone or expanded clay, the thickness of which is twice the size of the backfill fraction.

Before filling the soil cushion, it is necessary to lay water supply and sewerage pipes at the entrance to the house, as well as pipes for the ground ventilation heat exchanger. Or lay cases for installing pipes in them in the future.

Construction of floors on the ground

In private housing construction, the floor on the ground is arranged according to one of three options:

ground floor with concrete screed;
ground floor with dry screed;
ground floor on wooden joists.

A concrete floor on the ground is noticeably more expensive to construct, but is more reliable and durable than other structures.

Concrete floor on the ground

Floors on the ground are a multi-layer structure, Fig.4. Let's go through these layers from bottom to top:

Placed on a ground cushion material that prevents filtration into the groundmoisture contained in freshly laid concrete (for example, polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.). The film is applied to the walls.
Along the perimeter of the walls of the room, to the total height of all layers of the floor, fix separating edge layer from strips 20 – 30 thick mm, cut from insulation boards.
Then they arrange a monolithic concrete floor preparation thickness 50-80 mm. from lean concrete class B7.5-B10 to crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm. This is a technological layer intended for gluing waterproofing. The radius of concrete joining the walls is 50-80 mm. Concrete preparation can be reinforced with steel or fiberglass mesh. The mesh is laid in the lower part of the slab with a protective layer of concrete of at least 30 mm. For reinforcing concrete foundations it can alsouse steel fiber 50-80 long mm and diameter 0.3-1mm. During hardening, the concrete is covered with film or watered. Read:
For hardened concrete floor preparation weld-on waterproofing is glued. Either two layers of rolled waterproofing or roofing material on a bitumen base with each layer placed on the wall. The rolls are rolled out and joined with an overlap of 10 cm. Waterproofing is a barrier to moisture and also serves as protection against the penetration of ground gases into the house. The floor waterproofing layer must be combined with a similar wall waterproofing layer. Butt joints film or roll materials must be sealed.
On a layer of hydro-gas insulation lay thermal insulation slabs. Extruded polystyrene foam will probably be the best option for floor insulation on the ground. Foam plastic with a minimum density of PSB35 (residential premises) and PSB50 for heavy loads (garage) is also used. Polystyrene foam breaks down over time upon contact with bitumen and alkali (that's all cement-sand mortars). Therefore, before laying foam plastic on a polymer-bitumen coating, one layer of polyethylene film should be laid with an overlap of sheets of 100-150 mm. The thickness of the insulation layer is determined by thermal engineering calculations.
On the thermal insulation layer lay the underlying layer(for example, polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.), which creates a barrier to moisture contained in freshly laid concrete floor screed.
Then lay a monolithic reinforced screed with a “warm floor” system (or without a system). When heating floors, it is necessary to provide in the screed expansion joints. Monolithic screed must be at least 60 thick mm. executed from concrete class not lower than B12.5 or from mortarbased on cement or gypsum binder with a compressive strength of at least 15 MPa(M150 kgf/cm 2). The screed is reinforced with welded steel mesh. The mesh is placed at the bottom of the layer. Read: . To more thoroughly level the surface of a concrete screed, especially if the finished floor is made of laminate or linoleum, a self-leveling solution of factory-made dry mixes with a thickness of at least 3 is applied on top of the concrete layer. cm.
On the screed installing finished floor.

This is a classic ground floor. On its basis it is possible various options execution - both in design and in the materials used, both with and without insulation.

Option - concrete floor on the ground without concrete preparation

Using modern building materials, concrete floors on the ground are often made without a layer concrete preparation . A layer of concrete preparation is needed as a base for the sticker roll waterproofing on a paper or fabric base impregnated with a polymer-bitumen composition.

In floors without concrete preparation As waterproofing, a more durable polymer membrane specially designed for this purpose is used, a profiled film, which is laid directly on the ground cushion.

A profiled membrane is a fabric made of high-density polyethylene (HDP) with protrusions molded on the surface (usually spherical or truncated cone-shaped) with a height of 7 to 20 mm. The material is produced with a density from 400 to 1000 g/m 2 and is supplied in rolls with widths ranging from 0.5 to 3.0 m, length 20 m.

Due to the textured surface, the profiled membrane is securely fixed into the sand base without deforming or moving during installation.

Fixed into a sand base, the profiled membrane provides a solid surface suitable for laying insulation and concrete.

The surface of the membranes withstands the movement of workers and transportation machines without ruptures concrete mixtures and solutions (excluding tracked vehicles).

The service life of the profiled membrane is more than 60 years.

The profiled membrane is laid on a well-compacted sand cushion spikes down. The membrane spikes will be fixed in the pillow.

The seams between the overlapping rolls are carefully sealed with mastic.

The studded surface of the membrane gives it the necessary rigidity, which allows you to lay insulation boards directly on it and concrete the floor screed.

If slabs made of extruded polystyrene foam with profiled joints are used to construct a thermal insulation layer, then such slabs can be laid directly on the ground backfill.

Backfill of crushed stone or gravel with a thickness of at least 10 cm neutralizes the capillary rise of moisture from the soil.

In this embodiment, the polymer waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation layer.

If the top layer of the soil cushion is made of expanded clay, then you can dispense with the insulation layer under the screed.

The thermal insulation properties of expanded clay depend on its bulk density. From expanded clay with bulk density 250–300 kg/m 3 it is enough to make a thermal insulation layer with a thickness of 25 cm. Expanded clay with bulk density 400–500 kg/m 3 to achieve the same thermal insulation ability, you will have to lay it in a layer 45 thick cm. Expanded clay is poured in layers 15 thick cm and compacted using a manual or mechanical tamper. The easiest to compact is multi-fraction expanded clay, which contains granules of different sizes.

Expanded clay is quite easily saturated with moisture from the underlying soil. In wet expanded clay they decrease thermal insulation properties. For this reason, it is recommended to install a moisture barrier between the base soil and the expanded clay layer. A thick waterproofing film can serve as such a barrier.

Large-pored expanded clay concrete without sand, encapsulated. Each expanded clay granule is enclosed in a cement waterproof capsule.

The base for the floor, made of large-porous sand-free expanded clay concrete, will be durable, warm and with low water absorption.

Floor on the ground with dry prefabricated screed

In ground floors, instead of a concrete screed as the top load-bearing layer, in some cases it is advantageous to make a dry prefabricated screed from gypsum fiber sheets, from sheets of waterproof plywood, as well as from prefabricated floor elements from different manufacturers.

For residential premises on the first floor of the house more than simple and cheap option There will be a floor on the ground with a dry prefabricated floor screed, Fig. 5.

A floor with a prefabricated screed is afraid of flooding. Therefore, it should not be done in the basement, as well as in wet rooms - bathroom, boiler room.

The ground floor with a prefabricated screed consists of the following elements (positions in Fig. 5):

1 — Flooring- parquet, laminate or linoleum.

2 - Glue for joints of parquet and laminate.

3 - Standard underlay for flooring.

4 - Prefabricated screed from ready-made elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, particle boards, OSB.

5 - Glue for assembling the screed.

6 - Leveling backfill - quartz or expanded clay sand.

7 - Communications pipe (water supply, heating, electrical wiring, etc.).

8 - Insulation of the pipe with porous fiber mats or polyethylene foam sleeves.

9 - Protective metal casing.

10 — Expanding dowel.

11 - Waterproofing - polyethylene film.

12 - Reinforced concrete base made of class B15 concrete.

13 - Foundation soil.

The connection between the floor and the outer wall is shown in Fig. 6.

The positions in Fig. 6 are as follows:
1-2. Varnished parquet, parquet, or laminate or linoleum.
3-4. Parquet adhesive and primer, or standard underlay.
5. Prefabricated screed from finished elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, particle boards, OSB.
6. Water-dispersed adhesive for screed assembly.
7. Moisture insulation - polyethylene film.
8. Quartz sand.
9. Concrete base — reinforced screed made of concrete class B15.
10. Separating gasket made of waterproofing roll material.
11. Thermal insulation made of polystyrene foam PSB 35 or extruded polystyrene foam, thickness as calculated.
12. Foundation soil.
13. Plinth.
14. Self-tapping screw.
15. External wall.

As mentioned above, the soil cushion at the base of the floor always has a positive temperature and in itself has certain heat-insulating properties. In many cases, it is enough to additionally lay insulation in a strip along the outer walls (item 11 in Fig. 6.) in order to obtain the required thermal insulation parameters for a floor without underfloor heating (without heated floors).

Thickness of floor insulation on the ground

Fig.7. Be sure to lay insulation tape in the floor, along the perimeter of the external walls, with a width of at least 0.8 m. From the outside, the foundation (basement) is insulated to a depth of 1 m.

The temperature of the soil under the floor, in the area adjacent to the plinth along the perimeter of the external walls, depends quite strongly on the temperature of the outside air. A cold bridge forms in this zone. Heat leaves the house through the floor, soil and basement.

The ground temperature closer to the center of the house is always positive and depends little on the temperature outside. The soil is heated by the heat of the Earth.

Building regulations require that the area through which heat escapes be insulated. For this, It is recommended to install thermal protection at two levels (Fig. 7):

Insulate the basement and foundation of the house from the outside to a depth of at least 1.0 m.
Lay a layer of horizontal thermal insulation into the floor structure around the perimeter of the external walls. The width of the insulation tape along the external walls is not less than 0.8 m.(pos. 11 in Fig. 6).

The thickness of the thermal insulation is calculated from the condition that general indicator resistance to heat transfer in the area floor - soil - base, must be no less than the same parameter for outer wall.

Simply put, the total thickness of the insulation of the base plus the floor should be no less than the thickness of the insulation of the outer wall. For climate zone in the Moscow region, the total thickness of foam insulation is at least 150 mm. For example, vertical thermal insulation on a plinth 100 mm., plus 50 mm. horizontal tape in the floor along the perimeter of the external walls.

When choosing the size of the thermal insulation layer, it is also taken into account that insulating the foundation helps reduce the depth of freezing of the soil under its base.

This minimum requirements to insulate the floor on the ground. It is clear that what larger sizes thermal insulation layer, the higher the energy saving effect.

Install thermal insulation under the entire floor surface for the purpose of energy saving, it is only necessary in the case of installing heated floors in the premises or building an energy-passive house.

In addition, a continuous layer of thermal insulation in the floor of the room can be useful and necessary to improve the parameter heat absorption of the floor covering surface. Heat absorption of the floor surface is the property of the floor surface to absorb heat in contact with any objects (for example, the feet). This is especially important if the finished floor is made of ceramic or stone tiles, or other material with high thermal conductivity. Such a floor with insulation will feel warmer.

The heat absorption index of the floor surface for residential buildings should not be higher than 12 W/(m 2 °C). A calculator for calculating this indicator can be found

Wooden floor on the ground on joists on a concrete screed

Base slab made of concrete class B 12.5, thickness 80 mm. over a layer of crushed stone compacted into the ground to a depth of at least 40 mm.

Wooden blocks - logs with a minimum cross-section, width 80 mm. and height 40 mm., It is recommended to lay on a layer of waterproofing in increments of 400-500 mm. For vertical alignment, they are placed on plastic pads in the form of two triangular wedges. By moving or spreading the pads, the height of the lags is adjusted. The span between adjacent support points of the log is no more than 900 mm. A gap of 20-30 mm wide should be left between the joists and the walls. mm.

The logs lie freely without attachment to the base. During the installation of the subfloor, they can be fastened together with temporary connections.

For the installation of a subfloor it is usually used wood boards— OSB, chipboard, DSP. The thickness of the slabs is at least 24 mm. All slab joints must be supported by joists. Wooden lintels are installed under the joints of the slabs between adjacent logs.

The subfloor can be made from tongue-and-groove floorboards. Such a floor made from high-quality boards can be used without floor covering. The permissible moisture content of wood flooring materials is 12-18%.

If necessary, insulation can be laid in the space between the joists. Plates from mineral wool Be sure to cover the top with a vapor-permeable film, which prevents microparticles of insulation from penetrating into the room.

Rolled waterproofing made of bitumen or bitumen-polymer materials glued in two layers onto the concrete underlying layer using the melting method (for fused rolled materials) or by sticking onto bitumen-polymer mastics. When installing adhesive waterproofing it is necessary to ensure a longitudinal and transverse overlap of the panels of at least 85 mm.

To ventilate the underground space of floors on the ground along the joists, the rooms must have slots in the baseboards. Holes with an area of 20-30 are left in at least two opposite corners of the room. cm 2 .

Wooden floor on the ground on joists on posts

There's another one design diagram gender is wooden floor on the ground on joists, laid on posts, Fig.5.

Positions in Fig.5:
1-4 - Elements of the finished floor.
5 —
6-7 - Glue and screws for assembling the screed.
8 - Wooden joist.
9 — Wooden leveling gasket.
10 - Waterproofing.
11 - Brick or concrete column.
12 - Foundation soil.

Arranging the floor on joists along columns allows you to reduce the height of the ground cushion or completely abandon its construction.

Floors, soils and foundations

Ground floors are not connected to the foundation and rest directly on the ground under the house. If it is heaving, then the floor can “go on a spree” under the influence of forces in winter and spring.

To prevent this from happening, the heaving soil under the house must be made not to heave. The easiest way to do this is the underground part

Design of pile foundations on bored (including TISE) and screw piles involves the installation of a cold base. Insulating the soil under a house with such foundations is a rather problematic and expensive task. Floors on the ground in the house pile foundation can be recommended only for non-heaving or slightly heaving soils on the site.

When building a house on heaving soils, it is necessary to have an underground part of the foundation to a depth of 0.5 - 1 m.

In a house with outside multilayer walls with insulation on the outside, a cold bridge is formed through the base and load-bearing part of the wall, bypassing the insulation of the wall and floor.