Most suburban residential buildings do not have basements. Here, ground floors are the most popular solution for arranging floor coverings. They are not only reliable and attractive in price, but also allow you to create a space that is as comfortable as possible for the people living in the house.

Features of flooring on the ground

Work on arranging such structures can be successfully completed with your own hands, and no professional skills are required. The main thing is to know the algorithm of actions and strictly adhere to it.

To construct a floor located directly above the soil surface, they can be used various materials: wood, clay, concrete or cement. Concrete is usually used in a private house, and this is largely due to the advantages of this material. The concrete mixture is publicly available: you can buy it from a manufacturer or make it yourself. In both cases, the costs will be small.

Concrete floors have good performance characteristics, the main of which are durability and strength. The work can be done by one person who has an idea of ​​how to properly make the ceiling. At the same time, it is necessary to know in which cases the use of concrete mixture for flooring is undesirable. So, the following can interfere with construction:

• wet and moving soil;
• water depth less than 4 m;
• use of the premises only in summer.

If the house is not heated in cold weather, then the floors on the ground quickly freeze, and this in turn increases the load on the base and deforms it.

Today, there are 3 methods of arranging floors on the ground:

• in the first option, a concrete slab with reinforcement, acting as a floor, hangs above the ground, supported by load-bearing walls;
• the second method involves filling iron concrete slab directly on the ground over the entire area of ​​the house, while it serves as the basis for the walls;
• when using the third option, a monolithic reinforced slab is installed in the spaces between the walls.

In a private home, the latter method of arranging floors is most often used. In this case, the floors are endowed with the following characteristics:

• high degree of thermal insulation;
• moisture resistance;
• noise and vapor barrier.

All of the above creates comfortable conditions for people living in the premises. The diagram allows you to see what the arrangement of floors on the ground looks like between load-bearing walls.

Algorithm for carrying out construction work

Work on the arrangement of floor coverings must begin after the load-bearing walls and roof have been erected. The whole process can be divided into several main stages, the order of which will guarantee a successful screed.

First of all, the floor level is marked. The zero mark is the bottom of the doorway. To establish the most uniform zero level, the following technology is used:

• a distance of 100 cm is measured from the bottom of the doorway to the ceiling;
• Using a level, marks are placed along the entire perimeter of the walls;
• the markings are connected by a line;
• 100 cm is counted from the line strictly vertically downward;
• marks are placed along the entire perimeter;
• the bottom marks are connected by a line.

The resulting line will determine the level to which concrete must be poured.

The following stages of work will require preparation necessary materials and tools. In order to build floors on the ground, you will need:

• medium gravel (5-10 cm);
• sand;
• crushed stone of medium fraction;
• rolled waterproofing materials;
• heat insulator (mineral wool, expanded clay, perlite, etc.);
• synthetic or metal mesh for reinforcement;
• supports for fittings;
• metal pipes, profiles, etc. (lighthouses);
• technical oil;
• boards for formwork construction;
• nails;
• concrete mortar for pouring;
• concrete for screed;
• shovel;
• vibrator;
• compaction tool;
• hammer;
• rule.

The following stages of work include:

• clearing and compacting soil;
• creating a cushion of gravel, sand and crushed stone;
• laying hydro- and thermal insulation;
• reinforcement;
• production and installation of formwork;
• filling concrete mortar and its subsequent alignment;
• removing beacons and screeding the floor.

Methods for preparing and insulating the soil base

Structurally, a concrete monolithic floor laid on the ground is a “pie” filled with several building materials. It can have a thickness of about 50 cm, more often up to 40 cm. In order for the floor structure not to exceed the zero mark, it is necessary to select required quantity soil. Then the soil surface is compacted. If there are no traces of shoes left on it, you can proceed to the next stage of work - laying a gravel-sand cushion.

First of all, the soil is covered with gravel in a layer of 5 to 10 cm. The horizontality of the backfill is checked by level. Then the gravel is compacted, spilled with water and covered with a layer of sand 10 to 15 cm thick. The third layer, whose thickness is 10-15 cm, is crushed stone. If large gaps form between the stones, it is recommended to add a layer of sand to close them. The horizontalness of each layer is checked by level.

The construction of the floor involves laying hydro- and heat-insulating materials. Rolled waterproofing materials, polyethylene film 200 microns thick or membranes are laid out over the entire area of ​​the room, overlapping with an overlap of at least 20 cm, fastened at the joints with tape or adhesive tape.

The ends of the materials are brought out on the walls 1-2 cm above the zero mark. Thermal insulation materials are laid out or scattered on top of the waterproofing. When using tile heat insulators, they are fastened together with construction tape.

Reinforcement gives the concrete floor additional strength. Metal rods welded together can be used as a reinforcing frame, but experts recommend purchasing ready-made synthetic or metal mesh used for plastering work.

To lay the reinforcing mesh, you will need special stands called chairs. As a rule, they are made of durable plastic or metal and are sold in specialized shopping centers. The height of the chairs is no more than 3-4 cm. The parts are installed over the entire area of ​​the pouring, and a reinforcing mesh is laid on them.

After laying the reinforcement, you need to build formwork (if the area of ​​the room is large enough) and install beacons, the presence of which is required by any floor filling. The formwork can divide the room into several equal rectangles or be guide lines laid along the walls of the room at an equal distance from each other.

Formwork elements are made of boards or plywood and fixed to the base using concrete or cement mortar. The height of the formwork should reach the marks on the walls indicating the zero level. The finished formwork must be coated with technical oil, which will make it easy to remove it from the hardening concrete mixture.

In order to pour the concrete solution, you will need beacons made from pieces metal pipes, profiles or wooden blocks of the same size. Beacons are installed at equal distances along the boundaries of the room and fixed to the base using a concrete mixture. The height of the beacons must coincide with the zero line.

Rules for pouring a concrete slab

The concrete floor is poured after the guides and beacons have dried. For work, ready-made concrete M200 or M350 is usually used. If the loads on the flooring are significant, it is better to use a higher grade.

The solution is poured into the formwork in sections and processed with a vibrator, with the help of which air is removed. In order not to disrupt the work technology in the absence of a vibrator, you can use a shovel and pierce the concrete mixture well with it. After this, a rule is placed on the edges of the formwork and pulled over the surface of the fill, leveling it. Thus, the entire area of ​​the room is processed.

When the mixture dries a little, the guides and beacons are removed, and the remaining space is filled with concrete. The subfloor is ready. It is covered with plastic wrap and left to dry for several days.

After 28-30 days, the concrete will acquire its original strength, and the floor can be used for its intended purpose.

At the final stage of work, the floor is screeded. Typically, so-called lean concrete is used, in which the amount of fillers exceeds the volume of binding elements. The best brand of concrete in this case is M150. You can also fill it with a special self-leveling mixture.

Depending on the materials used, the minimum thickness of the screed should be about 4.5 cm. The resulting surface should be left to dry for at least 3-4 days. As the screed dries concrete base The finishing coating is laid, which can be any flooring material: laminate, linoleum, etc.

If necessary, pouring a concrete floor slab can be successfully completed on our own. The main thing is to familiarize yourself with a clear algorithm of actions before pouring the foundation: this will allow you to avoid mistakes and achieve an excellent result.

Schemes for installing a floor on the ground in a house, basement, garage or bathhouse

In houses without basements, the floor of the first floor can be made according to two schemes:

• supported on the ground - with a screed on the ground or on joists;
• supported on walls - like a ceiling over a ventilated underground.

Which of the two options will be better and easier?

In houses without a basement, floors on the ground are a popular solution for all rooms on the first floor. Floors on the ground are cheap, simple and easy to implement; they are also beneficial to install in the basement, garage, bathhouse and other utility rooms. Simple design, application modern materials, placement of a heating circuit in the floor (warm floor), such floors are made comfortable and attractively priced.

In winter, the backfill under the floor always has a positive temperature. For this reason, the soil at the base of the foundation freezes less - the risk of frost heaving of the soil is reduced. In addition, the thickness of the thermal insulation of a floor on the ground may be less than that of a floor above a ventilated underground.

It is better to abandon the floor on the ground if backfilling with soil is required to a height that is too high, more than 0.6-1 m. The cost of backfilling and soil compaction in this case may be too high.

A floor on the ground is not suitable for buildings on piles or columnar foundation with a grillage located above the ground surface.

Three basic diagrams for installing floors on the ground

In the first version concrete monolithic reinforced floor slab rests on load-bearing walls, Fig.1.

After the concrete hardens, the entire load is transferred to the walls. In this option, a monolithic reinforced concrete floor slab plays the role of a floor slab and must be designed for the standard load of the floors, have the appropriate strength and reinforcement.

The soil is actually used here only as temporary formwork when constructing a reinforced concrete floor slab. This type of floor is often called a “suspended floor on the ground”.

A suspended floor on the ground has to be made if there is a high risk of shrinkage of the soil under the floor. For example, when building a house on peat bogs or when the height of bulk soil is more than 600 mm. The thicker the backfill layer, the higher the risk of significant subsidence of the fill soil over time.

Second option - this is a floor on a foundation - a slab, when a reinforced concrete monolithic slab, poured onto the ground over the entire area of ​​the building, serves as a support for the walls and a base for the floor, Fig.2.

Third option provides for the installation of a monolithic concrete slab or laying wooden logs in the spaces between load-bearing walls supported on bulk soil.

Here the slab or floor joists are not connected to the walls. The load of the floor is completely transferred to the bulk soil, Fig.3.

It is the latter option that is correctly called a floor on the ground, which is what our story will be about.

Ground floors must provide:

• thermal insulation of premises in order to save energy;
• comfortable hygienic conditions for people;
• protection against penetration of ground moisture and gases - radioactive radon - into premises;
• prevent the accumulation of water vapor condensation inside the floor structure;
• reduce the transmission of impact noise to adjacent rooms along the building structures.

Backfilling the soil cushion for the floor on the ground

The surface of the future floor is raised to the required height by installing a cushion of non-heaving soil.

Before starting work on backfilling, be sure to remove the top soil layer with vegetation. If this is not done, the floor will begin to settle over time.

Any soil that can be easily compacted can be used as a material for constructing a cushion: sand, fine crushed stone, sand and gravel mixture, and at a low level groundwater– sandy loams and loams. It is beneficial to use the soil remaining on the site from the well and (except for peat and black soil).

The cushion soil is carefully compacted layer by layer (no thicker than 15 cm.) by compacting and pouring water onto the soil. The degree of soil compaction will be higher if mechanical compaction is used.

Large crushed stones should not be placed in the cushion, broken brick, pieces of concrete. There will still be voids between large fragments.

The thickness of the bulk soil cushion is recommended to be in the range of 300-600 mm. It is still not possible to compact the bulk soil to the state of natural soil. Therefore, the soil will settle over time. A thick layer of fill soil can cause the floor to settle too much and unevenly.

To protect against ground gases - radioactive radon, it is recommended to make a layer of compacted crushed stone or expanded clay in the cushion. This underlying captage layer is made 20 cm thick. The content of particles smaller than 4 mm this layer should contain no more than 10% by weight. The filtration layer must be ventilated.

The top layer of expanded clay, in addition to protecting against gases, will serve additional thermal insulation for the floor. For example, a layer of expanded clay 18 cm. corresponds to 50 in terms of heat-saving ability mm. polystyrene foam To protect against crushing of insulation boards and waterproofing films, which in some floor designs are laid directly on the backfill, a leveling layer of sand is poured on top of the compacted layer of crushed stone or expanded clay, the thickness of which is twice the size of the backfill fraction.

Before filling the soil cushion, it is necessary to lay water supply and sewerage pipes at the entrance to the house, as well as pipes for the ground ventilation heat exchanger. Or lay cases for installing pipes in them in the future.

Construction of floors on the ground

In private housing construction, the floor on the ground is arranged according to one of three options:

• ground floor With concrete screed ;
• ground floor with dry screed;
• ground floor on wooden joists.

A concrete floor on the ground is noticeably more expensive to construct, but is more reliable and durable than other structures.

Concrete floor on the ground

Floors on the ground are a multi-layer structure, Fig.4. Let's go through these layers from bottom to top:

1. Placed on a ground cushion material that prevents filtration into the groundmoisture contained in freshly laid concrete (e.g. plastic film thickness not less than 0.15 mm.). The film is applied to the walls.
2. Along the perimeter of the walls of the room, to the total height of all layers of the floor, fix separating edge layer from strips 20 – 30 thick mm, cut from insulation boards.
3. Then they arrange a monolithic concrete floor preparation thickness 50-80 mm. from lean concrete class B7.5-B10 to crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm. This is a technological layer intended for gluing waterproofing. The radius of concrete joining the walls is 50-80 mm. The concrete preparation can be reinforced with steel or fiberglass mesh. The mesh is laid in the lower part of the slab with a protective layer of concrete of at least 30 mm. For reinforcing concrete foundations it can alsouse steel fiber 50-80 long mm and diameter 0.3-1mm. During hardening, the concrete is covered with film or watered. Read:
4. For hardened concrete floor preparation weld-on waterproofing is glued. Either two layers of rolled waterproofing or roofing material on a bitumen base with each layer placed on the wall. The rolls are rolled out and joined with an overlap of 10 cm. Waterproofing is a barrier to moisture and also serves as protection against the penetration of ground gases into the house. The floor waterproofing layer must be combined with a similar wall waterproofing layer. Butt joints film or roll materials must be sealed.
5. On a layer of hydro-gas insulation lay thermal insulation slabs. Extruded polystyrene foam will probably be the best option for floor insulation on the ground. Foam plastic with a minimum density of PSB35 (residential premises) and PSB50 for heavy loads (garage) is also used. Polystyrene foam breaks down over time upon contact with bitumen and alkali (these are all cement-sand mortars). Therefore, before laying foam plastic on a polymer-bitumen coating, one layer of polyethylene film should be laid with an overlap of sheets of 100-150 mm. The thickness of the insulation layer is determined by thermal engineering calculations.
6. On the thermal insulation layer lay the underlying layer(for example, polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.), which creates a barrier to moisture contained in freshly laid concrete floor screed.
7. Then lay a monolithic reinforced screed with a “warm floor” system (or without a system). When heating floors, it is necessary to provide in the screed expansion joints. Monolithic screed must be at least 60 thick mm. executed from concrete class not lower than B12.5 or from mortarbased on cement or gypsum binder with a compressive strength of at least 15 MPa(M150 kgf/cm 2). The screed is reinforced with welded steel mesh. The mesh is placed at the bottom of the layer. Read: . To more thoroughly level the surface of a concrete screed, especially if the finished floor is made of laminate or linoleum, a self-leveling solution of factory-made dry mixes with a thickness of at least 3 is applied on top of the concrete layer. cm.
8. On the screed installing finished floor.

This is a classic ground floor. On its basis it is possible various options execution - both in design and in the materials used, both with and without insulation.

Option - concrete floor on the ground without concrete preparation

Using modern building materials, concrete floors on the ground are often made without a layer concrete preparation . A layer of concrete preparation is needed as a base for the sticker roll waterproofing on a paper or fabric base impregnated with a polymer-bitumen composition.

In floors without concrete preparation As waterproofing, a more durable polymer membrane specially designed for this purpose is used, a profiled film, which is laid directly on the ground cushion.

A profiled membrane is a fabric made of high-density polyethylene (HDP) with protrusions molded on the surface (usually spherical or truncated cone-shaped) with a height of 7 to 20 mm. The material is produced with a density from 400 to 1000 g/m 2 and is supplied in rolls with widths ranging from 0.5 to 3.0 m, length 20 m.

Due to the textured surface, the profiled membrane is securely fixed into the sand base without deforming or moving during installation.

Fixed into a sand base, the profiled membrane provides a solid surface suitable for laying insulation and concrete.

The surface of the membranes withstands the movement of workers and transportation machines without ruptures concrete mixtures and solutions (excluding tracked vehicles).

The service life of the profiled membrane is more than 60 years.

The profiled membrane is laid on a well-compacted sand bed with the spikes facing down. The membrane spikes will be fixed in the pillow.

The seams between the overlapping rolls are carefully sealed with mastic.

The studded surface of the membrane gives it the necessary rigidity, which allows you to lay insulation boards directly on it and concrete the floor screed.

If slabs made of extruded polystyrene foam with profiled joints are used to construct a thermal insulation layer, then such slabs can be laid directly on the ground backfill.

Backfill of crushed stone or gravel with a thickness of at least 10 cm neutralizes the capillary rise of moisture from the soil.

In this embodiment, the polymer waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation layer.

If top layer If the ground cushion is filled with expanded clay, then you can dispense with the insulation layer under the screed.

The thermal insulation properties of expanded clay depend on its bulk density. From expanded clay with bulk density 250–300 kg/m 3 it is enough to make a thermal insulation layer with a thickness of 25 cm. Expanded clay with bulk density 400–500 kg/m 3 to achieve the same thermal insulation ability, you will have to lay it in a layer 45 thick cm. Expanded clay is poured in layers 15 thick cm and compacted using a manual or mechanical tamper. The easiest to compact is multi-fraction expanded clay, which contains granules of different sizes.

Expanded clay is quite easily saturated with moisture from the underlying soil. Wet expanded clay has reduced thermal insulation properties. For this reason, it is recommended to install a moisture barrier between the base soil and the expanded clay layer. A thick waterproofing film can serve as such a barrier.

Large-porous expanded clay concrete without sand, encapsulated. Each expanded clay granule is enclosed in a cement waterproof capsule.

The base for the floor, made of large-porous sand-free expanded clay concrete, will be durable, warm and with low water absorption.

Floor on the ground with dry prefabricated screed

In ground floors, instead of a concrete screed as the top load-bearing layer, in some cases it is advantageous to make a dry prefabricated screed from gypsum fiber sheets, from sheets of waterproof plywood, as well as from prefabricated floor elements from different manufacturers.

For residential premises on the first floor of the house more than simple and cheap option There will be a floor on the ground with a dry prefabricated floor screed, Fig. 5.

A floor with a prefabricated screed is afraid of flooding. Therefore, it should not be done in the basement, as well as in wet rooms - bathroom, boiler room.

The ground floor with a prefabricated screed consists of the following elements (positions in Fig. 5):

1 — Flooring- parquet, laminate or linoleum.

2 - Glue for joints of parquet and laminate.

3 - Standard underlay for flooring.

4 - Prefabricated screed from ready-made elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, particle boards, OSB.

5 - Glue for assembling the screed.

6 - Leveling backfill - quartz or expanded clay sand.

7 - Communications pipe (water supply, heating, electrical wiring, etc.).

8 - Insulation of the pipe with porous fiber mats or polyethylene foam sleeves.

9 - Protective metal casing.

10 — Expanding dowel.

11 - Waterproofing - polyethylene film.

12 - Reinforced concrete base made of class B15 concrete.

13 - Foundation soil.

The connection between the floor and the outer wall is shown in Fig. 6.

The positions in Fig. 6 are as follows:
1-2. Varnished parquet, parquet, or laminate or linoleum.
3-4. Parquet adhesive and primer, or standard underlay.
5. Prefabricated screed from ready-made elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, particle boards, OSB.
6. Water-dispersed adhesive for screed assembly.
7. Moisture insulation - polyethylene film.
8. Quartz sand.
9. Concrete base - reinforced screed made of concrete class B15.
10. Separating gasket made of waterproofing roll material.
11. Thermal insulation made of polystyrene foam PSB 35 or extruded polystyrene foam, thickness as calculated.
12. Foundation soil.
13. Plinth.
14. Self-tapping screw.
15. External wall.

As mentioned above, the soil cushion at the base of the floor always has a positive temperature and in itself has certain heat-insulating properties. In many cases, it is enough to additionally lay insulation in a strip along the outer walls (item 11 in Fig. 6.) in order to obtain the required thermal insulation parameters for a floor without underfloor heating (without heated floors).

Thickness of floor insulation on the ground

Fig.7. Be sure to lay insulation tape in the floor, along the perimeter of the external walls, with a width of at least 0.8 m. From the outside, the foundation (basement) is insulated to a depth of 1 m.

The temperature of the soil under the floor, in the area adjacent to the plinth along the perimeter of the external walls, depends quite strongly on the temperature of the outside air. A cold bridge forms in this zone. Heat leaves the house through the floor, soil and basement.

The ground temperature closer to the center of the house is always positive and depends little on the temperature outside. The soil is heated by the heat of the Earth.

Building regulations require that the area through which heat escapes be insulated. For this, It is recommended to install thermal protection at two levels (Fig. 7):

1. Insulate the basement and foundation of the house from the outside to a depth of at least 1.0 m.
2. Lay a layer of horizontal thermal insulation into the floor structure around the perimeter of the external walls. The width of the insulation tape along the external walls is not less than 0.8 m.(pos. 11 in Fig. 6).

The thickness of the thermal insulation is calculated from the condition that general indicator heat transfer resistance in the floor-soil-basement area must be no less than the same parameter for the outer wall.

Simply put, the total thickness of the insulation of the base plus the floor should be no less than the thickness of the insulation of the outer wall. For the climatic zone in the Moscow region, the total thickness of foam insulation is at least 150 mm. For example, vertical thermal insulation on a plinth 100 mm., plus 50 mm. horizontal tape in the floor along the perimeter of the external walls.

When choosing the size of the thermal insulation layer, it is also taken into account that insulating the foundation helps reduce the depth of freezing of the soil under its base.

This minimum requirements to insulate the floor on the ground. It is clear that the larger the size of the thermal insulation layer, the higher the energy saving effect.

Install thermal insulation under the entire floor surface for the purpose of energy saving, it is only necessary in the case of installing heated floors in the premises or building an energy-passive house.

In addition, a continuous layer of thermal insulation in the floor of the room can be useful and necessary to improve the parameter heat absorption of the floor covering surface. Thermal absorption of the floor surface is the property of the floor surface to absorb heat in contact with any objects (for example, the feet). This is especially important if the finished floor is made of ceramic or stone tiles, or other material with high thermal conductivity. Such a floor with insulation will feel warmer.

The heat absorption rate of the floor surface for residential buildings should not be higher than 12 W/(m 2 °C). A calculator for calculating this indicator can be found

Wooden floor on the ground on joists on a concrete screed

Base slab made of concrete class B 12.5, thickness 80 mm. over a layer of crushed stone compacted into the ground to a depth of at least 40 mm.

Wooden blocks - logs with a minimum cross-section, width 80 mm. and height 40 mm., It is recommended to lay on a layer of waterproofing in increments of 400-500 mm. For vertical alignment, they are placed on plastic pads in the form of two triangular wedges. By moving or spreading the pads, the height of the lags is adjusted. The span between adjacent support points of the log is no more than 900 mm. A gap of 20-30 mm wide should be left between the joists and the walls. mm.

The logs lie freely without attachment to the base. During the installation of the subfloor, they can be fastened together with temporary connections.

For the installation of a subfloor it is usually used wood boards— OSB, chipboard, DSP. The thickness of the slabs is at least 24 mm. All slab joints must be supported by joists. Wooden lintels are installed under the joints of the slabs between adjacent logs.

The subfloor can be made from tongue-and-groove floorboards. Such a floor made from high-quality boards can be used without flooring. The permissible moisture content of wood flooring materials is 12-18%.

If necessary, insulation can be laid in the space between the joists. Plates from mineral wool Be sure to cover the top with a vapor-permeable film, which prevents microparticles of insulation from penetrating into the room.

Rolled waterproofing made of bitumen or bitumen-polymer materials glued in two layers onto the concrete underlying layer using the melting method (for fused rolled materials) or by sticking onto bitumen-polymer mastics. When installing adhesive waterproofing it is necessary to ensure a longitudinal and transverse overlap of the panels of at least 85 mm.

To ventilate the underground space of floors on the ground along the joists, the rooms must have slots in the baseboards. Holes with an area of ​​20-30 are left in at least two opposite corners of the room. cm 2 .

Wooden floor on the ground on joists on posts

There is another structural floor scheme - this wooden floor on the ground on joists, laid on posts, Fig.5.

Positions in Fig.5:
1-4 — Elements of the finished floor.
5 —
6-7 - Glue and screws for assembling the screed.
8 - Wooden joist.
9 — Wooden leveling gasket.
10 - Waterproofing.
11 - Brick or concrete column.
12 - Foundation soil.

Arranging the floor on joists along columns allows you to reduce the height of the ground cushion or completely abandon its construction.

Floors, soils and foundations

Ground floors are not connected to the foundation and rest directly on the ground under the house. If it is heaving, then the floor can “go on a spree” under the influence of forces in winter and spring.

To prevent this from happening, the heaving soil under the house must be made not to heave. The easiest way to do this is the underground part

Design of pile foundations on bored (including TISE) and screw piles involves the installation of a cold base. Insulating the soil under a house with such foundations is a rather problematic and expensive task. Floors on the ground in a house on a pile foundation can only be recommended for non-heaving or slightly heaving soils on the site.

When building a house on heaving soils, it is necessary to have an underground part of the foundation to a depth of 0.5 - 1 m.

In a house with external multilayer walls with insulation on the outside, a cold bridge is formed through the base and load-bearing part of the wall, bypassing the insulation of the wall and floor.

Under certain construction conditions, ground floors can be a more economical and more durable option than other types of flooring. What are these conditions? Obviously, dense layers of soil without organic matter, which would serve as the base of the floors, must be at an acceptable depth so that the backfill does not turn out to be too thick. The height of the bulk soil layer (sand, crushed stone, as well as sandy loam and loam with low groundwater) should not exceed 0.6 meters, since a large embankment will shrink too much during operation. If suitable geological conditions exist, all that remains is to design the floors in such a way that it reliably protects the living space of the house from dampness and cold. First, let's look at the most economical option for flooring on the ground for a private home.

Economical option without a layer of insulation

It is recommended to combine any flooring on the ground with external insulation of the wall, base and foundation below the floor level at least 1 meter. This eliminates freezing of the foundation as well as a significant bridge of cold from the building through the floors, soil and then to the base-foundation and outside air.

The standards require a slightly different insulation option - laying insulation under the base of the floors along the walls in a strip 0.8 meters wide, and the heat transfer resistance of this insulation should be no lower than that of the walls. Those. a cold bridge is removed through the floors along the ground to the foundation.

Thus, vertical thermal insulation of the foundation and basement along the perimeter of the house makes the soil layer under the floor thermally insulated from the street. The upper layers of soil under the floor will be heated by heat from the house, while heat loss through the floor should not exceed regulatory requirements. Of course, such floors cannot be called warm. However, the design has the right to exist without a special layer of insulation under the entire surface of the floors.

The figure shows a typical design for connecting simple floors on the ground and a wall with a foundation.
Here 2 is continuous waterproofing.
3 – foundation and plinth.
4-5 – plaster layer.
6 – blind area.
9 – floor on the ground.

Heat absorption of floors should not exceed standard requirements - no more than 12 W/m2*deg for residential premises. In other words, the rate of heat absorption by the floor, for example from a person’s foot, should not be too high so that the floor does not seem “icy.” Therefore, materials with low thermal conductivity should be used for the floor covering and screed in this design. Recommended to use wooden parquet, carpet, thick linoleum.

The screed is carried out in an economical way - a dry screed on a leveling layer of sand. A double gypsum fiber sheet is used. It is advisable for such floors to use expanded clay sand, which has a lower thermal conductivity coefficient, which will only reduce the heat absorption of the floor.

How to make simple floors on the ground

In general, the creation of economical floors on the ground is carried out as follows.

• Backfilling is done with soil, then with coarse crushed stone. Each layer and crushed stone must be compacted mechanically thoroughly. Crushed stone is needed to create the required compaction density.
• Concrete preparation of the floor base is done - a layer of concrete from 6 cm, concrete class B22.5. Before pouring concrete, a plastic film is placed on the ground so that the ground does not immediately take up water from the concrete.
• The waterproofing is installed - the membrane overlaps, wraps around the walls, and forms an inextricable water vapor barrier with horizontal waterproofing of the foundation. The quality of this insulation is controlled first.
• A leveling layer of sand (perlite, expanded clay sand) 50 - 100 mm thick, but no more, is poured.

The diagram shows:
1,2,3 – floor covering.
4.5 – dry screed.
6 – leveling sand bedding.
7, 8,9,10 – pipeline in a metal casing secured with dowels.
11 – membrane waterproofing.
12 – concrete base
13 – compacted soil

• The prefabricated dry screed is laid. - read more.
• The screed is puttied and the floor covering is laid on it. The screed is made floating and separated from the wall along the perimeter by an edge strip in a gap of 10 mm.

The result is a fairly simple but reliable floor that can be made in a private home or with your own hands.

A distinctive advantage of floors on the ground is that they do not require maintenance or monitoring of their condition during operation, such as floors with a ventilated subfloor.

Option with durable concrete screed

These floors are distinguished by the fact that they are made durable mesh reinforced concrete screed with a thickness of 5 cm. It can be made in two versions:


• without heating, on a layer of insulation, extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 7 cm (at least recommended to reduce the overall heat loss of the house and reduce the heat absorption (coldness) of the floors);
• heated by a water pipeline, while the thickness of the specified insulation is recommended to be at least 12 cm, since the temperature difference increases. In addition, the heated screed must be made with the addition of plasticizers and fiber and broken into smaller fragments compared to a cold screed.

Additionally, you can read - review article -




The figure shows the layers and construction of floors on the ground with a concrete screed.
1 – soil.
2 – bulk layers of soil.
3 – layer of sand and crushed stone.
4 – concrete leveling layer.
5 – unbroken waterproofing.
6 – EPS insulation.
7 – cement-sand reinforced screed.

Creating a foundation with a strong screed




Construction rules

It is important to follow the following rules when constructing floors on the ground.


• Layer levels are set, filling and laying are carried out, maintaining horizontality, guided by beacons...
• To place cables and pipelines under the floor in the sand bedding, a metal box can be installed in which the communication will be located.
• A joint is left between the walls and the concrete base of the floors, which is filled with a non-drying sealant. All technological openings at the floor level for all communications are also sealed.
• If you plan to install lightweight partitions (that do not require a foundation), then they can rest directly on a concrete base. In this case, the base in this place and the interface unit are necessarily reinforced using known technologies.
• When performing work, be sure to control the quality of each layer, since it will be hidden by the next one and it will be impossible to eliminate the defects. Establish control and acceptance of layers at the construction site.

The general procedure for carrying out the work is as follows: first, a thermally insulated foundation is erected, its foundation pit is backfilled, then soil and crushed stone are backfilled and compacted. The concrete base is being laid. Next, waterproofing is laid - on top of the foundation (horizontal foundation waterproofing) and on top of the concrete preparation of the floors, forming a continuous coating.

Typically, ground floors are made together with foundations shallow. On topic -

At self-construction country house or baths on strip foundation, in areas with a low groundwater level, it makes sense to make a concrete floor on the ground with your own hands . This technology is the fastest, most economical and allows you to do without the use of special equipment.

In addition, this floor design is more reliable and durable than ground floors without concrete, and does not require additional maintenance during operation.

Features of laying floors on the ground

In order to study this issue in detail, this article will consider the construction of a concrete floor on the ground in residential buildings with strip foundation.

In addition, the reader will be offered detailed instructions, which presents the technology of a concrete floor on the ground with step by step description implementation of all technological stages of construction.

Stage 1: preparatory work

It is recommended to begin work on the flooring after the walls of the building have been erected, window and door openings have been closed and the roof has been installed, and the average daily ambient temperature does not fall below +5°C.

Before pouring the concrete floor onto the ground, it is necessary to make a sand and gravel cushion:

1. Clear the area of ​​land within the boundaries of the foundation from construction debris and remove the top layer of soil to a depth of 200-300 mm. Compact the soil surface using a hand tamper or vibrating plate.
2. Make markings along the internal perimeter of the walls of the building, outlining the zero mark of the subfloor. Using a hydraulic level, check that the zero mark is at the same height in all rooms.
3. Fill the compacted soil with sand and gravel, which consists of a layer of gravel, 50 mm thick and a layer of sand, 100-150 mm thick.
4. Moisten the surface of the pillow generously with water., compact, and then pour a thin layer of crushed stone with a particle fraction of 40-60 mm.
5. Sprinkle crushed stone lightly with sand, then moisten with water and compact again.

Pay attention!

When filling a sand and gravel cushion, it is necessary to control using a building level so that all layers of backfill are strictly parallel to the horizon.

Stage 2: pouring a monolithic slab

The next stage of construction is the production of a monolithic reinforced concrete slab, which will perform load-bearing functions and bear the entire main load on the floor. For this reason, it must be reinforced with steel mesh, and its thickness must be at least 80-100 mm.

1. Waterproofing. Place waterproofing made of thick polyethylene film on the sand and gravel cushion so that it extends onto the walls to a height of at least 500 mm.
2. Reinforcement harness. On low spacers, lay a metal reinforcing mesh on the floor so that at the joints it has an overlap of at least 100 mm.
3. Fill concrete. Prepare a concrete solution and distribute it evenly over the entire area of ​​the room in a layer at least 80 mm thick.
4. Alignment surfaces. Using a level, by measuring the distance to the finished floor marks, check that the poured surface is strictly horizontal.

After the mortar has set, the surface must be left for at least one week until the concrete has completely hardened. Diamond drilling of holes in concrete using special power tools.

Pay attention!

It is recommended to lay all engineering communications before pouring the slab, however, if this was not done in advance, it can be used laterA cutting reinforced concrete with diamond wheels after the monolith hardens.

Stage 3: insulation and waterproofing

The concrete floor, in contact with the ground, is a source of penetration of moisture and cold, therefore, to ensure a comfortable microclimate in the house, careful heating and waterproofing of the concrete floor along the ground is necessary.

Water-repellent materials and insulation are laid in several layers:

1. Thick polyethylene film can be used as waterproofing, but it's best to cover the surface monolithic slab layer of liquid hot bitumen.
2. Thermal insulation can be done in two ways: In the first case, a layer of blast furnace slag or expanded clay 100-200 mm thick is poured over the entire surface of the slab, but this material is hygroscopic and can absorb moisture.
3. The second option is considered more acceptable and consists of laying slabs of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) 50-100 mm thick on the floor.
4. Expanded clay filling must be distributed in an even layer, and lay the EPS boards tightly, without gaps, on the floor and secure them with dowels and wide plastic washers.
5. Another layer of waterproofing should be laid on top of the insulation. made of thick polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 200 microns, on top of which a reinforcing mesh is laid.

Pay attention!

Pouringconcrete floor in the garage on the ground,You can do without thermal insulation, but high-quality waterproofing must be done in any case.

Stage 4: installation of concrete screed

The finishing screed serves to evenly distribute the load and lay the finishing floor covering ( ceramic tiles, linoleum, laminate), so it must have the same thickness and a smooth, uniform surface. The quality of this stage of work should be given special attention, because the cost of rework, in case of technology violation, may be too high.

How to pour a concrete screed:

1. Installation of beacons. Using cement or gypsum mortar, install beacon guide rails throughout the entire area of ​​the room at a distance of at least 1 meter from each other, defining the upper level of the subfloor.
2. Pouring the solution. Starting from the far corner of the room, fill each section of the floor, evenly distributing the cement-sand mortar over the entire surface of the filled area.
3. Leveling the surface. To do this you need to use a metal or wooden rule, moving it with vibrating movements along the guide beacons.
4. Floor screed. Thus, moving from one area to another, it is necessary to fill the entire room, which is recommended to be completed in one working day.
5. Grouting cracks. After the mortar has set, it is necessary to remove the beacon guides and fill the resulting cracks with fresh cement-sand mortar.

Upon completion of this operation, the room must be left for several days until the cement mortar has completely hardened and dried. After 2-3 weeks, the floor surface must be primed. For this purpose, it is best to use an epoxy or polyurethane primer for concrete, which must be applied using a construction roller.

• In paragraph 1 the manufacturing recipe is indicated cement-sand mortar for finishing screed.
• Clause 2 specifies the recipe for making concrete mortar for pouring a monolithic slab.

Conclusion

After reading this article, it becomes clear that making a concrete floor yourself country house Almost any home craftsman can do it.

To get additional information on this issue, you can watch the video in this article or read similar materials on our website. I am ready to answer all your questions in the comments.

Strip foundation, lack of a basement, low groundwater level - these conditions are enough to choose concrete floors on the ground in a private house.

Call this solution simple and easy it is forbidden, but it allows you to save money due to the absence of floor slabs and reducing the load on the base unit (hence the foundation can be made “lighter”).

Floors on the ground: we start with protecting the foundation

Most sources cited as mandatory requirement groundwater occurrence no higher than 4-5 meters(sometimes even two). And this is the level of occurrence perched water, which is seasonal and is located above impermeable layers. That is, these are ordinary sedimentary waters that did not have time to seep into lower and more permanent waters. aquifers(“on sand” and “on lime”).

Summer and winter perched water disappears and appears in spring and autumn. Even if the site is located in a “critical” zone, then it can be effectively dealt with (if it is not infiltration water seeping through the ground from a nearby reservoir).

The first condition for preventing flooding by high water is drainage.

It is necessary to “help” sedimentary water penetrate through soil layers that have water-resistant properties (loams). These measures are important for such areas, even from the point of view of protecting the foundation during the period of rain and snow melting. This is not difficult to do - several wells with a diameter of up to 15 cm and a depth below the heel of the foundation are drilled around the perimeter of the house.

Then insert drainage pipe just below the level of the ground surface (it is better to wrap it with a filter cloth - this will prevent it from silting) and fill it with fine crushed stone inside. The hole is covered with waterproof material, covered with earth on top or covered with a piece of turf.

There is a more complex option with the construction of trenches, in which the same pipes are laid on a bed of sand and crushed stone and brought down at a slope to the drainage well.

The second condition is waterproofing the foundation.

In conditions of pressure water exposure, the most effective will be a combination of several methods.

First, the outer walls of the base are treated with a bitumen primer and glued onto it. roll materials. The correct technique is a horizontal arrangement from bottom to top, overlapping, but a simpler one is vertical.

Bonding occurs due to heating blowtorch the inside of the leaf. They protect the waterproofing with a clay castle, which itself serves as a barrier to water. If the impact of perched water is short-lived, and precipitation in the region is not heavy, then you can limit yourself to coating waterproofing.

And of course, to the mandatory measures to protect against water, it is necessary to add a blind area (20 cm wider than the projection of the roof edge) and a drainage system.

Floors on the ground: installation of a base for a concrete floor on the ground

In principle, ground floors are a common technology for basements, basements, and outbuildings (sheds, garages). The only significant difference can be the installation of a “warm” floor in the screed, and the installation of a reliable foundation, waterproofing and passive insulation is carried out in any case. Floors on the ground

No matter how reliable the foundation waterproofing and drainage measures are, the soil has its own moisture, and water can rise up through natural capillaries. Therefore, it is necessary to protect the floor from these factors.

In cross-section, the device for flooring on the ground represents a multi-layer cake.

The base for the entire structure must be a flat and dense area without remnants of vegetation, root systems and construction debris. "Reference point" for determining volume earthworks take the threshold level.

From it the thickness of the final coating and the thickness of all layers of the concrete floor on the ground are subtracted (for residential premises it is only the base).

After the site has been cleared and leveled, its base must be compacted. The simplest “rammer” is a piece of log with a cross handle, more modern way- vibration machine.

Floors on the ground: to improve insulating properties

the next layer can be done made of clay. For wells, the recommended thickness is clay castle not less than 20 cm, for artificial reservoirs 8-12 cm, the same parameters are chosen for adobe floors, but here you can limit yourself to a more modest value of 5-6 cm.

Next comes a layer of sand. Many people, out of inertia, advise choosing river or washed seeded sand, but this is redundant - ordinary quarry sand is suitable for the cushion (this is not the production of concrete and clay impurities do not affect the strength characteristics). This layer is watered and compacted.

Then a layer of medium or fine crushed stone is poured. It interrupts the capillary rise of water from the ground. It is also compacted.

The thickness of each layer is usually selected from 5 to 10 cm, with a total size of up to 20 cm.

It is possible to use expanded clay (it is a good bulk thermal insulation material), but this is only if the possibility of water ingress is excluded - under its influence it swells. For dry soils, you can limit yourself to only a cushion of sand, but for the floor in the basement it is permissible to use a cushion made of two layers of crushed stone - first a coarse fraction, and then a fine one.

A thick polyethylene film is laid on top of the crushed stone, extending onto the walls.

It is not used for waterproofing, but as a necessary condition proper hydration of the first layer of concrete.

First to fill skinny concrete, which does not perform load-bearing functions, but serves as the basis for waterproofing and laying thermal insulation materials. Builders call it “foot concrete” or “rollable” (it is easy to lay). The percentage of cement in it is usually almost 2 times less due to increasing the share of filler- for example, instead of the ratio 1:3:3 (cement, sand, crushed stone), the proportions 1:3:6 are used.

Since this layer is not taken into account when ensuring the overall strength of a concrete floor for a private house, its reinforcement is not necessary.

A layer of 6-8 cm is enough.

Important! When making concrete, you should use river or washed sand.

After pouring, the concrete must be compacted and leveled. Jewelry precision, as for a screed, is not necessary, but alignment with beacons is necessary for high-quality styling slab insulation. Floors on the ground

Then a break is necessary for the concrete to gain strength. The first week is very important - for hardening (hydration) of the solution it is necessary to create high level humidity. This is why a film is needed at the base - so that water does not go into the sand and crushed stone, and does not get absorbed into the walls. Periodically the surface is moistened with water. Better yet, cover with wet burlap. Ideally (at a temperature of 20°C and normal humidity) in the first 7 days, concrete gains 70% of its design strength, and in four weeks - 100%.

To continue work, it is enough to wait a week.

When using hardening accelerator modifiers, 3 days are enough (sometimes one day, but such additives ultimately significantly affect the quality of the concrete stone).

Floors on the ground: waterproofing.

It is mandatory for the first floors, especially in conditions of flooring on the ground. It is better to leave the use of polyethylene (of any density) for the floors of city apartments (and not in the bathroom or kitchen). The right choice- This is roll insulation with bitumen impregnation.

The surface, cleared of dust, is treated with a bitumen primer (primer), and roofing material (or one of its analogues) is laid on top. This is done in two layers, with the seams displaced (filled with bitumen) and reaching the walls above floor level.

At this stage, the preparation of the base for insulation and pouring the screed ends.

Concrete floor on the ground: floor insulation

To insulate a concrete floor, three options are most often used - expanded clay, expanded polystyrene, and extruded polystyrene foam.

As already noted, only when reliable waterproofing It is possible to use expanded clay - it swells when exposed to moisture. The thickness of the layer can vary between 10-20 cm.

It is better to insulate with foam plastic in two layers, each of which should move relative to each other. It is advisable to offset the seams between the rows. This will increase the strength of the insulation layer itself, and ultimately the screed - if the seams coincide, the risk of cracks appearing in this place increases. Sheets of foam plastic should be fitted as tightly as possible to each other, and it is best to use foam plastic with ends that have a tongue-and-groove profile.

Treat the joints with adhesive.

The insulation technology of EPS is the same as for polystyrene foam. The difference between the material is its high compressive strength and the almost complete absence of water absorption (it itself is a good waterproofing material).

Important! Floor insulation is effective if the base is insulated.

Floors on the ground: screed

Filling the floor over the ground ends with a screed. Next comes the installation of the finishing layer: wooden floors, laminate, linoleum, etc.

Although for office premises (garage, basement, storage room) it is possible to top the concrete surface at the pouring stage (this significantly increases strength and prevents dust).

The screed over the insulation must have reinforcement.

For residential premises with light surface loads, it is sufficient to install a road mesh with a link size of 10x10 cm and a wire thickness of 3-4 mm.

You can use galvanized steel mesh, but polymer

or composite

behaves better in the alkaline environment of concrete, as well as .

The mesh is not attached to the walls, but a compensation gap of at least 20 mm is left. You can use a block of wood or foam scraps, which are then removed and the gap is filled with elastic sealant.

The mesh is laid overlapping two cells; the fastening between the sheets is done with wire.

Floors on the ground: reinforcement

passes at some distance from the floor surface (approximately 1/3-1/2 layer of screed). To do this, you can use pieces of brick or crushed stone, plastic caps from bottles or special stands.

The thickness of the screed for residential premises must be at least 50 mm.

You can use both types of concrete (cement-sand) screed - classic or semi-dry.