A reliable roof, which has high-quality waterproofing and insulation along the slopes, is the dream of any dacha owner or country house. Today, such a dream is easily achievable if it is fulfilled.
Before making metal tiles with your own hands, you will need to think about the issue of removing old roof, which may lack waterproofing. IN in this case everything will depend on the technology used to make the roofing cake and its condition.
List of items you will need to install a new roof on your home:
- hacksaw for metal;
- anti-condensation films;
- waterproofing;
- galvanized nails;
- self-tapping screws;
- sealing tape.
The process of performing control measurements yourself
After the installation of the rafters is completed, you will need to re-measure the dimensions of the roof slopes. This is due to the fact that during construction any deviations could easily arise. It is worth paying attention to the rectangularity of the roof, because additional elements can hide only small defects (no more than 10 mm).
It is worth knowing that when covering a roof with metal tiles, cutting sheets should be done exclusively using a hacksaw, a hand-held power saw, or special scissors.
It is worth noting that technology that includes waterproofing can only be used if the roof slope is at least 14 degrees.
The choice of type of snow guards for the roof will depend on what material the roof is made of and how much snow falls in a particular region. The main size that will determine the length of the sheets is the length of the slope. This is the distance from the roof ridge to the eaves, which must be set taking into account the overhang of the sheet from the eaves (up to 40 mm).
In the case where the slope is longer than 7 m, the sheets will need to be divided into two or more fragments, which are overlapped (at least 150 mm). The disadvantage of long sheets that have fewer joints is that they are very inconvenient to work with.
It is worth knowing that when cutting sheets, you need to do it exclusively with a hacksaw, a hand-held power saw, or special scissors. All places where bare metal remains must be treated with a special paint that protects the steel from corrosion. At the same time, it is not at all recommended to use a popular grinder with an installed abrasive wheel in order to cut sheets. Its use is not justified.
How to install the sheathing yourself
The space under the roof must have good ventilation Therefore, a sheathing and a counter-lattice will be needed. Anti-condensation films will need to be placed between the rafters and sheets of metal. The waterproofing should be laid parallel to the eaves.
For soft roofing roll materials continuous sheathing is required.
The material should sag slightly between the rafters. A small slack in tension (1-2 cm) will be enough. Along the rafters on top of it you will need to nail small bars with a cross-section of 40x25 mm. This will be the counter-lattice, on top of which you will need to fasten the flat bars of the sheathing. The distance is equal to the wave pitch of the metal tile. The board that will go onto the cornice will need to be chosen 10-15 cm thicker than the rest.
It is worth noting that the bars for sheathing and all the rest wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic. It is able to protect them from insects and rot.
The installation of a metal tile roof must necessarily include the use of special materials for waterproofing. There are 2 types of waterproofing, therefore, it is important not to make a mistake here. The first is intended to protect the insulation and rafters from any penetration of moisture vapor from inside the room. The second waterproofing is waterproofing films, which protect from wind, moisture and condensation. They must be installed exclusively on top of the insulation. They allow water vapor to pass through, so it does not accumulate in the insulation. The slope of the slopes prevents moisture that flows from the metal tiles from remaining on the film for a long time.
Do-it-yourself installation of the valley and cornice strips
Installation correct roof made of metal tiles requires protection not only from condensation that forms on the back side of the metal sheets, but also from precipitation. They can pose a hazard to the bottom edge of the sheathing, so a cornice strip may be needed here. It consists of a number of boards that are nailed to the sheathing, overlapping each other. In order to do the installation yourself, you should install galvanized nails in increments of no more than 30 cm.
Scheme of a valley roof.
Valleys should be used when the slopes are adjacent to each other. The bottom edge of the valley should be laid on top of the completed cornice strip. It is necessary to use a porous seal to get rid of the gap between the roof covering and the bottom valley strip.
A valley overlay can give the roof structure a completed look; it must be installed after installing the sheets. It is fixed at the top of the wave, the step being 30-50 cm.
The end strip must be installed using self-tapping screws. In this case, the step between them should be no more than 40 cm. The planks themselves must be mounted overlapping (10 cm) along the length.
How to install a metal roof with your own hands
Installation of the coating should begin from the end of one of the slopes after the preparatory work has been completed, which includes laying anti-condensation film and installing the sheathing.
If installation starts from the left end, the second sheet must be installed under the last wave of the first. When work begins on the right end of the roof, a new sheet must be laid on top of the last wave of the previous one. In the case where there is a hip roof, installation will need to start from the middle of the slope, after which the installation is carried out evenly in both directions.
Each of the sheets has a capillary groove, which is located along its edge. This groove should be covered by the edge of the next sheet. The covering sheets must be aligned along the eaves strip.
The screws used to secure the sheets must be in the deflection of the wave.
The obvious fact is that it is not difficult, but there are some nuances that you need to know about. For example, the screws used to secure the sheets must be in the deflection of the wave. It is necessary to use only those self-tapping screws that have a special sealing washer. In this case, they will need to be screwed strictly perpendicular to the sheathing material. Average consumption There are very few screws at all. It is up to 8 pieces per 1 sq. m.
If you screw in the screws at an angle, they will not be able to press the sealing washer tightly, therefore, a potential leak will appear in the roof.
An important issue is the movement on the roof during construction or repair work. It is worth noting that it is recommended to avoid movement on the finished roof altogether, but if you follow all existing rules, it may cause only minimal problems.
It is recommended to use shoes that have soft soles. It is allowed to step only on the deflection of the wave and only in the place where the sheathing will be located under the metal layer. Under no circumstances should you step on the crest of a wave.
DIY ridge installation to ensure good ventilation
A correctly installed ridge is the key to good, high-quality ventilation of the space under the roof.
This element must be given special attention while installing a metal tile roof with your own hands.
The sheets of covering should not converge towards each other, and there should be enough space between their edges under the ridge strip. The skate should be fixed using self-tapping screws that are screwed into the top of every second wave. You will need to cover the edges of the sheets with sealing tape.
If you need to make a semicircular ridge on a hip roof, it would be best to use special elements such as Y-shaped overlays.
Even if the person who performs renovation work, will know that he may make a mistake when making a joint with such a vertical surface as a pipe or wall. In such cases, the contact area will be isolated using a junction strip and a self-adhesive seal. Additional sealing can be easily created using sealant.
The lower junction strips must be installed in a groove prepared on the surface (pipe or wall). To do this, you should perform a groove, after which you will need to remove dust and wash the groove. The abutment strip is trimmed, installed and fixed using self-tapping screws.
After the work is completed, you will have an internal apron, but you will also need to organize water drainage. To do this, use a flat sheet of metal, the edges of which will form the sides.
In addition to the internal apron, you can also use an external one, which is created from the upper abutment strips. Installing it is almost the same as the internal one, with the exception of gating. The edges of the planks are simply secured to the wall.
Some difficulties may arise when working on broken roofs. Such elements can be internal and external. In the first case, an abutment strip is used, which is installed together with the seal. If we are talking about an external break, you will need to use a cornice strip.
Do-it-yourself installation of a drainage system and snow guards
Rectangular systems should be used. The gutters need to be mounted below the edge of the roof by 2-3 cm. The lower edge of the eaves strip should cover part of the gutter, and the waterproofing film should be placed on top of it.
Snow guards are installed on the mounting strip using self-tapping screws that reach the sheathing. They screw up every second wave.
Choosing a roof covering for a bathhouse is both a simple and complex question. Even the large number of roofing options offered by manufacturers cannot satisfy everyone without exception; each bathhouse owner tries to find his own solution. And our goal is not to give advice on choosing a specific type of roofing, everyone should listen to their own opinion - there is no ideal roof, just as there is no completely bad one, each has strengths and weaknesses, very large fluctuations in price and installation complexity.
Piece roofing tiles are considered the most prestigious and complex; they can be natural ceramic, concrete, with additives of polymers, dyes, etc. Metal and flexible tiles are considered a cheaper option, although among these types of coverings the price difference by brand may vary at times. It all depends on the material, manufacturing technology and final performance characteristics. Options for covering with metal and flexible tiles are found most often in bathhouse coverings, and we will focus on them for now.
To begin with, it is advisable to familiarize yourself a little with the brief characteristics of the coating.
Prices for metal tiles
metal tiles
Advantages
Cheap, quick installation, wide selection color solutions and geometric shapes. Durability can also be mentioned, but this indicator depends not only on the brand, but also on the manufacturer. If the tiles are manufactured with gross deviations from generally accepted standards and with violations of technology, then after 6–7 years the coating will have to be repaired or replaced. Conscientious licensed manufacturers provide a guarantee of 25 years or more for elite brands of products.
Flaws
It makes noise during heavy rain or hail. The disadvantage is not critical; no one is going to sleep lightly in a bathhouse. And if there is an attic on the second floor, then the mineral wool used to insulate the roof perfectly dampens sound vibrations. Conclusion - metal tiles are an excellent roofing covering for baths.
Metal tiles must be transported only in a horizontal position; the length of the body must be greater than the length of the material. Unload the roofing carefully, carry the sheets only in a vertical position, do not allow sharp bends.
We will describe the most difficult installation method metal tiles- with a warm roof. Depending on the specific use of the attic space, you may be able to simplify the installation process and skip some steps.
Step-by-step installation instructions
Step 1. Check the correct construction and dimensions of the rafter system. Most baths have the simplest gable roof types; checking their dimensions does not take much time.
How to do this? First you need to check the diagonals of the rafter system; the difference in values should not exceed two centimeters; such a spread can be easily hidden by additional elements. Next, pull a rope between the outer rafters, they should all lie in the same plane. Places with deviations should be noted; corrections of deflections are done while nailing the sheathing.
Step 2. If possible, treat all wooden elements of the rafter system with antiseptic agents. complex action. They will reliably protect the tree from damage by rot and pests and increase fire safety indicators. For the bath it is important factor.
Step 3. Laying waterproofing.
It will protect the insulating layer from moisture vapor condensation. Condensation always forms on the underside of metal tiles; droplets of water can fall on mineral wool, which significantly reduces its heat-protective properties. In addition, prolonged contact of wet cotton wool with wooden structures may cause their premature deterioration. The insulation itself will be laid on the roof from the attic side and additionally protected by a vapor barrier layer.
Waterproofing is sold in rolls; during installation you need to follow the markings; there are lines on the front surface. Simple bathhouse roofs do not have valleys, but they may have a chimney outlet. Start doing waterproofing right around the chimneys, stretch the material around the entire perimeter and secure with a stapler. Make sure that all overlaps are directed in the direction of condensate drainage; it is advisable to glue the membrane joints special tape or ordinary tape.
The chimney has been processed - proceed to waterproofing the slopes. Place the rolls from bottom to top and secure them to the rafters with a stapler. Do not allow the material to sag significantly; under no circumstances should it touch the mineral wool. The membrane can be additionally fixed to the rafters with 50x50 mm counter-lattice slats.
This device increases efficiency natural ventilation between the roofing and the sheathing. Some builders skip this operation; they believe that the gaps between the sheathing and the covering sheets are sufficient for ventilation. Both methods have a right to life, but we would not recommend saving too much when arranging roofing coverings.
Step 4.
Nail wind boards along the eaves, and wrap the waterproofing over the boards.
For lathing, you can use boards 30 mm thick and 100 mm wide or slats 30x50 mm. The first board or batten from the eaves should be a centimeter thicker than the others to increase the strength of fixation of the sheets and prevent them from being undermined by strong gusts of wind. The pitch of the sheathing should be equal to the pitch of the wave of metal tiles.
Lathing for metal tiles - photo
Nail the first batten at the eaves and check its position. It must be strictly parallel to the ridge, otherwise the waves of the tiles on the roof will not be perpendicular to it, and this is considered a defect. In order to speed up the process of nailing the sheathing, you need to cut several slats along the length of the wave pitch; they will be used as a template. There is a second method to speed up the work - use a rope with blue to beat off parallel lines along the counter-lattice at the required distance. When nailing the slats, be guided by these lines. The skate must have slats; the distance of the slats from the skate cannot exceed ten centimeters. Slats are needed to fix the ridge metal element roofing covering.
The wavelength of metal tiles depends on the brand and thickness of the sheet; select tiles taking into account the individual characteristics of the roof. Each manufacturer supplies its products with instructions describing the optimal performance of the roof and climate zone. Along the perimeter of the chimney you need to make a continuous sheathing approximately 20÷25 centimeters wide.
Step 5. Installation of a chimney apron.
All manufacturers produce additional elements for roofing, and their list also includes metal flashings for chimneys. They look like flat plates; you need to cut the technological bends yourself, taking into account the dimensions of the chimney.
Measure the width of the bottom of the chimney, beat off this value on the bar symmetrically to the edges. Draw a line about 10 centimeters wide with a marker, cut off the vertical edges with scissors, and bend them perpendicular to the drawn line. The entire part of the apron along the line must be bent at an angle equal to the exit angle of the chimney wall on the roof slope. Don’t be afraid to make a mistake; when fixing the element, the angle will be adjusted to the existing dimensions.
Installation diagram of additional elements around the chimney
Start installing the apron from the bottom wall of the brick pipe. A flat sheet of metal (tie) with flanges on the sides should be placed under the lower element of the apron; water will flow along it into the catch basins. The side walls of the pipe are finished in the same way, and the top part is sealed last.
In order to prevent water from getting through the chimney stacks under the roofing, it is recommended to recess the side strips into the brickwork. To do this, you need to attach it to the wall and draw a line of contact with the upper edge of the strip on the chimney. Using a grinder with a diamond blade, a line (groove) is cut along the marked location. The cut needs to be cleaned of dust and washed. The curved edge of the strip is inserted into the groove and sealed along the entire length with silicone. This should be done around the entire perimeter of the brick chimney. The planks are screwed with countersunk screws to the roof sheathing. The junction points are the most dangerous in terms of leaks; be very careful when performing all operations to seal them.
The external chimney sealing apron is installed after laying the metal tiles. Some craftsmen do not want to install an internal apron; we do not recommend simplifying the process of installing the coating by increasing the risk of leaks. In terms of time, the complete installation of one apron will not take more than two to three hours; this is not the time, by saving which one can expose the entire roof of the bathhouse to additional risk.
Step 5. Installation of hooks for drainage system.
The hooks should be fixed before installing the metal tile drip, this is very important. Immediately after the hooks, you can install cornice strips.
Important. The bottom of the eaves strip should fall slightly into the gutter. Otherwise, in case of strong gusts of wind rainwater will fall on the wooden elements of the cornice. The gutter of the drainage system itself can be installed after installing the metal tiles.
The distance between the holders is approximately 50 centimeters. The overall slope of the gutter must be at least three millimeters per meter of length; mark a line on each holder for bending in the desired location.
Let's look at how to do this with an example. Let’s say the length of the roof slope of the bathhouse is 6 meters, the slope between the outer holders should be approximately 6 × 3 = 18 millimeters. Place all the hooks in a row and align their ends. On the first, mark the bend point, and on the last, mark a point ≈18 millimeters below the first. Connect the dots with a line; each hook will have a mark for its bend. Of course, the holders need to be numbered so that later during fastening they do not change places. Don’t be upset if you fail to maintain millimeter precision during bending; the gutter itself will fall into place over time.
Step 6. A hole for the outlet funnel is marked on the gutter; the width of the hole depends on the diameter of the drainage system. The hole is cut with a hacksaw for metal. Insert the gutter into the holders with an overlap of several centimeters, the edges of the individual pieces of the gutter should fit into the special seats. Secure the gutter with metal tabs to the holders. To improve the sealing of the joints of individual pieces of the gutter, seals can be installed. Plugs are installed at the ends of the gutter. The funnel is installed under the hole and fixed by bending the metal tongue.
Step 7 On top of the installed cornice strip you need to bring out the edges of the waterproofing sheet and glue it double-sided tape. In this position, condensation will fall from the canvas into the gutter, and not under the cornice.
Step 8 Sheets of metal tiles are lifted onto the roof one at a time; you can use wooden logs installed from the ground with emphasis on the beginning of the slope.
If the bathhouse is two-story, then you should use canvas straps to lift it.
The first sheet must be laid exactly along the line of the eaves and the end of the roof.
If the rafter system was made according to all the rules, then no problems should arise. If there are errors, place the first sheet with an offset of no more than 1÷2 cm, the last sheet will also have such an offset. The end additional element will cover the unevenness of the sheets.
Fastening is done with special roofing screws with rubber washers.
Self-tapping screws for metal tiles, how many are needed for 1 sq. m.
Important. The self-tapping screw must be screwed into the sheathing by at least two centimeters.
At the bottom of the sheet, fastenings are made in each deflection of a wave; subsequently, the sheets are fastened through the deflection in a checkerboard pattern. If the sheets are stacked from left to right, then the second sheet overlaps the first, if in the opposite order, then it overlaps the first. This should be kept in mind and do not tighten the screws on the outer waves of the metal tiles before laying two sheets.
You need to move on the roof very carefully, only in soft shoes, your feet should be placed only in places where the waves bend.
Self-tapping screws must be tightened without under-tightening or over-tightening. The rubber washer should be pressed tightly against the surface of the sheet, but not deform it.
Step 9 Installation of ridge strips.
They can be flat or semicircular, and are equipped with end caps of the appropriate profile. Place the planks with an overlap of up to 10 centimeters and secure them to the metal tiles with ridge screws.
Step 10 Installation of end strips.
Align the ends, all the sheathing slats should be on the same line. The planks are fixed to the wind boards on one side, and to the roofing on the other.
If the bathhouse uses a metal sandwich pipe for the chimney, then in order to reach the roof it is necessary to install a special additional device for engineering equipment- rubber outlet. The diameter of its outlet changes due to cutting off the upper part of the corrugated seal.
How to seal the outlet of a metal pipe
| Step, No. | Description | illustration |
|---|---|---|
| Step 1 | Mark the location of the chimney outlet on the roof and cut a hole with metal scissors |
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| Step 2 | Make the same hole in the waterproofing, apply silicone sealant to the waterproofing seal, glue it and secure it to the slats or sheathing boards with metal strips |
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| Step 3 | Place the base of the exit to the metal tile profile and bend it to size |
|
| Step 4 | Apply a layer of sealant on the bottom side of the outlet, install the outlet in place and secure it around the perimeter with self-tapping screws. The diameter of the rubber insert of the device should be approximately 20% less than the diameter of the chimney pipe |
|
If you wish, you can install it on the roof ventilation holes. The technology is no different from that described above, only the appearance and engineering design of the ventilation cap differs.
The final touch is the snow guards. It is recommended to install them in areas with heavy snow cover; they protect drainage systems from mechanical damage. The brackets are placed at the bottom of the metal tile wave just above the sheathing. Mark the locations and use a thin drill to drill holes in the tiles and slats. They are needed for bolts and screws of increased strength; snow retainers must withstand heavy loads. It is recommended to fasten the brackets on rubber pads; the snow retention tubes are inserted into the holes of the brackets.
Prices for snow guards
snow guards
Video - Installation of metal tiles
Rules and step-by-step instructions for installing flexible tiles
Among modern roofing materials, flexible tiles occupy a worthy place; they are a coating of universal use; they can be used to cover the most complex conical, domed or sloping roofs.
According to the price value, the material belongs to middle category. Of course, there is a range of prices among various brands and manufacturers of flexible tiles can be significant, but in terms of average cost it is a roofing material that is quite affordable for most users. You can see her very often at the baths. All manufacturers' advertising brochures attract the attention of buyers with excellent photographs of various objects, where the roof has not only a variety of colors, but also the shape of the “petals” of the tiles.
But none of the manufacturers provide photographs of roofs with soft tiles after 5–6 years of operation. Do you know why? But because during this time enough dust accumulates between the crumb particles for the growth of mosses and lichens.
We will not discuss the appearance of such a coating; some people may like it - a real “retro roof”. Let them like it, but mosses and lichens “don’t like” the roof itself; the root system of plants quickly destroys the base of the soft tiles. No “modified” bitumens and nonwovens cannot withstand the effects of living nature. This means it's time to save money for a complete replacement. roofing material. Moreover, do not put off the work; in a few years the plywood will begin to deteriorate and the top veneer will peel off. You will also have to replace expensive plywood. You can, of course, use laminated plywood for the sheathing, but look at its price and soberly assess your financial capabilities. There are options for removing moss, but they simultaneously “clean” the surface of crumbs and part of the bitumen.
The base for the tiles is solid, most often sheets of plywood or OSB are used, sometimes there is a more expensive option made of thin edged boards. Depending on the pitch of the rafters, materials with different thicknesses are used.
| Material thickness, mm | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Distance between sheathing rafters, mm | OSB | Sheet plywood | Natural edged board |
| 300 | 9 | 9 | - |
| 600 | 12 | 12 | 20 |
| 900 | 18 | 18 | 23 |
| 1200 | 21 | 21 | 30 |
| 1500 | 27 | 27 | 37 |
The table shows the approximate parameters of the sheathing materials depending on the distances between the rafter legs. The most profitable is the use of thinner slabs laid on a sheathing made of unedged boards. So, the strength can be adjusted independently, and the cost of the lathing is minimal. At the same time, the amount of unproductive waste is significantly reduced - space can be found for almost all slab scraps. We will focus on this option.
Step 1. Check the geometry of the rafter system and the reliability of fixation of all its components. Constructions flexible covering much heavier than metal, the rafter system must be as stable as possible. In addition, the surface of soft tiles is rough, which contributes to the accumulation of increased snow cover, which means additional loads. The angles are checked by measuring the diagonals, the linearity of the rafters using a stretched rope. If there are any deflections, make marks in these places and remove them while laying the step sheathing. The distance between the sheathing boards is 20÷30 centimeters.
Step 2. Start nailing the OSB boards.
The base for flexible tiles is a continuous sheathing
Baths, as a rule, are small in size and have simple roofs; such features make it possible to draw up a preliminary plan for cutting the slabs. Having a plan reduces the number of times you cut material, which reduces time and quality. You can fasten the slabs with ordinary nails 40÷50 mm long; if you want to suffer and pay extra money for this pain, fix the slabs with self-tapping screws. There is a lot of controversy surrounding the need to leave a gap between the plates, supposedly it will compensate for thermal expansion.
You shouldn't believe this. How can the gap compensate for the expansion of the slab if it is nailed to the boards in many places? This is, firstly. Secondly, those few tenths of a millimeter by which the slab can actually expand are wrinkled at the edges without any problems. Try to ensure that the slabs lie as evenly as possible in one plane. But a difference of a few millimeters should not upset you; flexible tiles will easily hide them without deteriorating their properties.
Step 3. Secure the drainage system hooks.
How this is done is described in detail above in paragraph No. 5 of the section “Rules and step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles.” And the general algorithm for installing a drainage system, including snow retainers, is no different.
Step 4. Install metal droppers on the eaves overhang, secure them in increments of approximately 15 centimeters with roofing nails. It is much easier to hammer nails into metal with a special hammer; it has a sharp tooth, which is used to first punch holes in the sheet and only after that the nail is driven in. The overlap of the droppers is at least three centimeters.
Step 5. Installation of flexible tiles must begin with the chimney; lay a waterproof barrier around its perimeter, it is supplied as a kit. We strongly recommend placing the same barrier around the entire perimeter of the eaves. It's inexpensive, but will bring a lot of benefits. Width approximately 50 centimeters. The barrier is self-adhesive, remove the protective film and glue it carefully, do not allow bending, the surface should be flat. Overlaps of at least 20 cm; if the barrier does not adhere well, use special liquid bitumen mastic.
Excess pieces of material are cut off with a construction knife. Place a flat board under the cut line, cut it, remove the board and glue a piece prepared to size. You can additionally fix the underlay carpet with nails with wide heads, the length of the nails is within 20 mm, pitch 25÷30 cm.
Important. If the slope of the roof slopes is less than 15°, then it is better to lay the lining carpet along all slopes. The material is laid from bottom to top, overlapping areas are sealed with bitumen mastic. On a skate, a barrier must be installed in all cases.
One more thing. If the profile of the flexible tiles has deep cuts, for example, jazz, tail, trio varieties, then the underlay should be applied over the entire roof.
Step 6. To protect the ends from wind loads, pediment strips are nailed to the gable board.
Use nails and a special hammer. The distance between the nails is approximately twenty centimeters; do not forget to overlap the planks. The edge of the plank should be placed on the edge of the wind board, place the nails in a checkerboard pattern.
Step 7 Marking the roof slope. Along the underlay carpet, you need to beat off parallel horizontal lines with a rope with blue, the distance between them is equal to approximately five times the width of the tiles, the distance between the vertical lines should be the size of one shingle. This mesh will greatly simplify and speed up the process of installing flexible tiles. In addition, it completely eliminates the risk of distortions in the rows of tiles. These lines make it possible not only to hold the shingle vertically and horizontally, but also to maintain it on difficult areas of the roof and correct wrong sizes stingray
Step 8 Place a valley carpet around the perimeter of the brick chimney; be sure to coat the joints with bitumen mastic.
Step 9 Setting up the starting line.
This is a very important step, so pay the utmost attention to its implementation. Carry out the work from the center of the cornice, trimming off the excess along the edges. This method will make the entire roof symmetrical, and this is very important for the appearance of the bathhouse. The starting strip has its own profile and increased thickness of the adhesive layer. Remove the protective film from the back, carefully lay the material and secure it in a checkerboard pattern with wide-headed nails. You should retreat 1.5 cm from the drip edge.
Step 10. Before you start laying the shingles, you need to mix them in random order; do not take them in a row from one pile.
The fact is that the color may change slightly and large stripes with different shades will form on your roof. When mixing the shingles, this problem disappears. The protective film on the back side of each shingle is removed, the tiles are glued evenly and additionally secured with nails.
Important. When driving nails into the lower part of the tiles, you should pay attention to ensure that their heads are covered by subsequent rows. The first row of nails should be one centimeter away from the starting strip.
There are varieties of tiles that do not have the protection of an adhesive layer; they are a little easier to work with. Drive nails only at right angles; the heads should not cut into the roof. For one shingle one meter long, four nails are enough; the head should be located at least two centimeters away from the visible part of the shingle. Each nail should hold two shingles at once.
Step 11 Along the entire perimeter of the brick chimney, the tiles must be laid on mastic, all upper joints must be additionally sealed. To increase the tightness, it is recommended to cut through the groove, insert metal decorative strips into it and bend them down. The junction areas are carefully coated with mastic.
Pass-through element - fixation
Step 12 Decoration of pediments. The edges of the shingles are additionally coated with mastic. Excess parts are cut off along a straight line with a sharp carpenter's knife.
Step 13 The ridge is first glued with flexible tiles, and then covered with a special metal ridge element. Do not forget to overlap and coat all joints with bitumen mastic. It is advisable to leave a gap of several centimeters in the ridge for natural ventilation of the rafter system. The metal ridge covering is covered with soft tiles. It can be cut out from an ordinary one or torn along the perforation lines of a cornice. Secure the tile sheets with four nails, two on each side. Lay the ridge towards the prevailing wind direction.
If the horse has acute angle or the work on laying tiles is carried out in the cold season, then before bending the ridge tiles, the line should be heated with a construction hairdryer, otherwise it will crack. Some manufacturers promise that their tiles can be laid at temperatures of -5°C. Do not believe or experiment; work should be performed only in warm and dry weather. To prevent the edges of the ridge tiles from being visible, cut them slightly at an angle. There will be a narrow part at the top and a little wider at the bottom. The wide, smooth part of the factory cutting will hide all the handmade irregularities.
At this point the roofing work is completed, you can begin to insulate the roof.
Prices for flexible tiles
flexible tiles
Video - Installation of flexible tiles
Metal tiles have firmly entered our lives. This is the option that more and more people are choosing to cover their roofs. It has many advantages, and one of the main ones is long service life and reliability. But for these advantages to really work, the installation must be carried out correctly. What is the technology for laying metal tiles on the roof? What difficulties may arise on the way to achieving this task? This will be discussed in the article.
How much material is needed and how to choose it
Laying metal tiles with your own hands is a completely feasible task. But before you start, you should purchase the material itself, and in the right quantity. In order to determine how many sheets of metal tiles you need, you should do the following:
- Calculate the roof area. If the roof is gable, then this will not be difficult to do. Difficulties with calculations will arise with a more complex roof configuration. For a hipped, broken or other option, you should calculate the area of each slope separately.
- After this, you can decide on the required amount of metal tiles. But even here difficulties may arise. Firstly, the material is laid on the roof with an overlap. Secondly, you should be sure to ensure that the drawing is correct.
- Be sure to add 10-15 percent to the calculated amount of metal tiles. You will not be able to lay the material without cuttings, especially on a roof with a complex configuration.
- The moisture content of the material is no more than 10-12 percent.
- All boards must be the same size, especially their thickness.
- Do not use material with “flaws”, for example, with cracks or areas susceptible to rotting.
- The first step is to secure the cornice and end strip. These additional elements play an important role; they protect the roof of the house. Before installing the cornice strip, nail the front board. Brackets for the drainage are attached to it. After this, the cornice strip is laid.
- If the roof has negative angles, then the next step will be to install the valley. This element must be placed on a continuous sheathing.
- Next, you can lay the metal tiles themselves. This needs to be done from the cornice. Which side of the roof, right or left, to start with is up to the master himself. This is not important. The first sheet should be placed flush with the eaves and the edge of the roof. The next one is placed on the right or left.
- The installation procedure is simple. First, the bottom row is installed. Next, the next one and so on until the ridge. The best option is if it matches the length of the slope. In this case, the installation will be carried out faster, and the roof itself will be more reliable (there will be few joints). But if the roof is broken or has a complex configuration, then this will not work.
- There is no need to immediately attach metal tile sheets to the sheathing. First, one row is laid out. Next, you should align all the sheets relative to each other and the edges of the roof. After this is carried out. At the same time, for each square meter there must be at least eight screws.
- The fastening points must be strictly above the sheathing boards. The installation instructions indicate that the screws are screwed in one and a half centimeters below the stamping line of the metal tile. At the same time, you can’t be too zealous. The cap should tightly press the metal tile to the base without damaging it.
- The instructions for laying metal tiles indicate the next step - attaching the upper valley. Its installation is carried out on top of the roofing material. In this case you need to use special products, which improve the tightness of joints. The valley is the most dangerous place on any roof. This is where leaks most often occur.
- Next, on, comes the laying of additional products. This is the ridge, end strips and so on. It is best that they are from the same manufacturer. In this case, installation will take place without any particular difficulties. In addition, it will provide a more attractive appearance and significantly improve the protection of your home's roof.
- When laying additional materials, you should also be careful about waterproofing and other “add-ons”. This is especially true for the skate. Here, in addition to the seal to improve protection against leakage, other devices should be used that will ensure the presence ventilation gap. Without such a “gap,” condensation that forms under the metal tile when temperatures change can quickly damage the rafter system.
After calculating the required amount of metal tiles to lay on the roof of your new home, you can go to a hardware store. But the purchase itself should be made carefully so as not to acquire low quality products. To prevent this from happening, you should pay attention to some features.
Firstly, the protective polymer layer of metal tiles should not have chips or cracks. Secondly, the sheets themselves must be smooth, without dents or kinks. In addition, ask the sellers for documentation on the material. It should indicate that the metal tiles are manufactured in accordance with existing GOST standards.
Another tip is to purchase directly from a major manufacturer. In this case, the cost of metal tiles may be thirty percent less. Why the big one? The fact is that many entrepreneurs buy machines for the production of metal tiles. But not all of them have the quality of their products at the required level. Large manufacturers are more sensitive to their reputation. 
Preparing the base for metal tiles
Laying metal tiles on the roof is done using lathing. You can do it yourself. To do this you need to prepare the material. As a rule, wooden boards or bars are used for lathing, but you can also put chipboard sheet. The last option in the case of metal tiles is rarely used. For this type of roofing material, the sheathing is made thin.
The boards or bars used must meet the following requirements:
For most often, boards with dimensions of 25 by 100 millimeters are used. If the roof has a complex configuration, then it is better to use thicker bars.
It is very important to determine the pitch of the sheathing. It all depends on. The pitch of laying the boards should be equal to the distance between the waves. But this does not apply to all areas of the roof. At the cornice, the step between the sheathing boards should be smaller, about 2-3 centimeters.
The technology for laying roof sheathing boards under metal tiles is simple. Work should begin from the cornice. The first board is mounted on the very edge. Next, an indent of 23-28 centimeters is made and the next one is attached. After this, the boards are laid with a step equal to the pitch of the metal tile wave.
You can fasten it using wood screws or using nails. The first option is considered the most reliable. Fastening is done directly to the rafters, with two points. 
Before installation, it is very important to treat all boards with special impregnations. Wood is a “capricious” material. It is “afraid” of moisture, fire and biological influence; if the boards are not treated with impregnations, they will quickly rot.
Don't forget about waterproofing. Of course, if you install metal tiles correctly, the roof will not leak. But you can’t do without an additional layer of waterproofing. The fact is that when temperatures change, condensation begins to form under the roofing material. If moisture gets on the wooden elements of the rafter system, they will begin to rot.
Can be used as waterproofing various materials. Can be laid thick plastic film or a special membrane. As inexpensive option You can also use roofing felt, but you should be careful here. If bitumen gets on the polymer layer of metal tiles, the latter may begin to “deteriorate.” 
What you need to lay the material
Laying metal tiles on the roof of a house with your own hands is not a difficult task. But in order for everything to go quickly and without hesitation, you should prepare for work. First of all, you need to acquire all the tools and equipment.
Laying metal tiles on the roof with your own hands is carried out using the following:
You should also prepare and necessary materials. In addition to self-tapping screws and the metal tiles themselves, you should “stock up” on additional products. Any roof of a house is not complete without eaves and end strips, ridge and other details. It is advisable to purchase them from the same manufacturer from whom the metal tiles were purchased. 
Installation instructions
Now it’s worth considering the issue of laying metal tiles step by step. The technology of this process is as follows:
Among roofing materials on the construction market, buyers most often give their preference to metal tiles - a beautiful, practical and affordable material. Metal tiles are made from sheets of copper, aluminum or steel, which are shaped using cold pressure. This is how the material takes on a shape similar to the shape ceramic tiles without losing its quality.
Installing such a roof does not require special knowledge, but it is still worth familiarizing yourself with the technology of the process, so in this article we will tell you how to properly cover a roof with metal tiles with your own hands.
Types of metal tiles
If you decide to cover your roof with tiles, then first you should pay attention to the following characteristics:
- Wave height and steel thickness. The higher these parameters, the stronger the metal tile will be, however, the price will increase;
- The type of profile is a matter of taste. There are 3 types of them: symmetrical, asymmetrical and trapezoidal;
- Protective coating. Any metal tile is covered with a special anti-corrosion layer of zinc with impurities, for example, aluminum. The presence of this layer is extremely important, because the metal of the roof is constantly in an unfavorable environment.
We should also talk about the decorative layer of metal tiles. This layer is optional, but is applied quite often. Its main task is to give a spectacular appearance, but it also serves as excellent protection against the harmful effects of the environment.
The decorative layer can be made of the following polymer materials:
- Polyester– inexpensive and reliable coverage, which is suitable for regions with any climate, but it is necessary to work with it extremely carefully, because it does not tolerate mechanical stress;
- Plastisol– more durable polyvinyl chloride coating. It is immune to corrosion, as well as mechanical damage, but is completely unsuitable for hot regions due to intolerance to high temperatures;
- Pural– provides resistance to corrosion and various weather conditions, however, when installing it you also need to be extremely careful due to the possibility of plastic deformation;
- PVDF- one of the most optimal options. It withstands all kinds of weather conditions, is resistant to damage and fading, and also has long term services.
What you should know about working with metal tiles
When talking about how to cover a roof with metal tiles, first of all it’s worth talking about the necessary tools. You will need:
- Hammer;
- Screwdriver;
- Marker;
- Roulette;
- Rake-rule;
- Metal scissors.
When planning roof construction, do not forget:
- The roof slope angle must be at least 14 degrees;
- You should not cut metal tiles with a grinder, because... high temperatures contribute to the destruction of the protective layer. It is also necessary to know correctly so as not to damage it;
- If you plan to cover a roof with a complex shape, purchase material in large quantities, because... when cutting, there will be a lot of unnecessary trimmings;
- Purchase reliable paint, which must be used to carefully paint the cut areas of the metal tiles to protect them from corrosion;
- A roof with metal tiles needs additional sound insulation;
- When laying metal tiles, walk on them in soft shoes, trying to step on the concave part of the wave.
Insulation and waterproofing
Finishing the roof of a house with metal tiles always begins with providing waterproofing, which will protect the roofing sheets from condensation and also eliminate possible leaks.
First of all, you need to take care of the vapor barrier. It is laid out as follows:
- A piece is cut off required length taking into account overhangs of 20 mm towards the cornice;
- Also maintain a slight sag of 1.5-2 cm between the rafters;
- Join the rows with an overlap of 15 cm and securely glue them with tape;
- A staple gun is best for attaching vapor barriers, but you can also use small nails.
If you decide to insulate the roof, lay sheets of mineral wool between the rafters.
Next you need to put waterproofing material. It will protect the insulation, as well as the wooden roof vault, from moisture. Attach the flashing to the outside of the rafters, similar to a vapor barrier. Also remember to leave a gap between the shingles, waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier for better ventilation.
Installation of sheathing
If we cover the roof with metal tiles with our own hands, then we should also tinker with the sheathing ourselves. This stage It is very complex and requires extreme concentration, but with proper calculations there should be no problems.
First, you need to decide on the material from which the sheathing will be assembled. Most often, a 50 by 50 mm beam or a 100 by 25 mm board made of softwood is used to assemble it. Before use, it is necessary to thoroughly dry the timber and also treat it with moisture-proof impregnation.
Assembling the sheathing:
- Choose a board that is 15 mm thicker than the others;
- Secure the selected board to the eaves;
- The second board should be standard sizes, however, it must be fastened 50 mm closer than all subsequent ones;
- The remaining boards are fastened at a distance equal to the transverse profile of the tile;
- It is recommended to make a continuous sheathing at the ridge and in the valleys to create additional strength;
- The end strip should be attached to the height of the tile wave above the general level of the sheathing.
Now you can cover the roof with metal tiles, however, in order to identify errors in a timely manner, we recommend checking the geometry of the slope and also comparing the size of the diagonals.
Installation of metal tiles - how to cover a roof with your own hands
The start of assembly depends on the type of roof:
- If you are covering a gable roof, start laying sheets from either end;
- With a hip roof type, installation begins from the highest point and proceeds in two directions.
When laying the sheet, leave a 40 mm extension along the eaves, temporarily secure it with one screw with rubber insert for the top part.
If you lay sheets from right to left, then attach the next sheet overlapping the previous one, however, if the sheets are laid from left to right, then the next sheet must be placed under the wave of the previous one. Fasten the laid sheets together, but do not screw them to the sheathing, so that later you will have the opportunity to trim them.
The organization of valleys requires special attention:
- As mentioned above, continuous sheathing is required under the valleys, so think about this in advance;
- Attach a steel sheet to the continuous sheathing;
- Cut the metal tiles so that two adjacent sheets form an even angle;
- Close the resulting corner decorative element, securing it with self-tapping screws to the upper part of the tile wave.
If you have laid the tiles correctly, then at the junction of the top sheets there will be a gap in which you need to lay the sealant and secure the roof ridge to the edges.
As you can see, covering a roof with metal tiles with your own hands is quite simple; it is only important to understand the technology and approach the matter with maximum concentration.
Metal tiles are a material that is used for roofing along with such popular materials as slate, bitumen shingles and galvanized sheet. Excellent technical specifications make it an excellent option for any home. And although they usually prefer to invite professionals to carry out this kind of work, let’s look at how to install metal tiles yourself: step-by-step instructions and some recommendations from specialists.
A tile roof, especially if it is made of metal, is one of best options for home decoration. Experts and users themselves note many positive aspects of using this material, including:
- light weight (4-6 kg/m²), which ensures very little load on the roof;
It is distinguished by an affordable price, long service life and expressive appearance.
- simple installation procedure and ease of repair work;
- wide range of color solutions;
- the material is environmentally friendly and does not contain any harmful components;
- the coating is equipped with stiffening ribs, which makes it very durable. Provided that all installation recommendations are followed, the surface can withstand a load of 200 kg/m², even if 0.5 mm thick sheets were used;
- the material is extremely temperature resistant. It is not afraid of any changes, and the rate of thermal expansion is minimal.
There is practically no need to talk about the disadvantages of metal tiles, with the possible exception of increased noise levels on days when it rains. But this can also be dealt with if you first lay a layer of glass wool.
Criteria for choosing a material for a metal roof: photo examples
Before you begin considering the installation process of this roofing material, you need to decide exactly how the material should be used.
Viewing photos of roofs on which metal tiles look attractive is far from best method in this case, since during the selection process you need to pay attention to the list of additional elements, as well as the markings provided by the manufacturer. Let's look at what the buyer needs to know.
First of all, you need to pay attention to the presence in the price list of such additional elements as:
- different types of skates: simple, figured and with aerators;
- special passage units for installing pipes, hatches, ventilation, antennas, as well as lighting windows;
- elements designed to ensure the safety of surface maintenance - walking bridges, ladders, snow guards;
- internal and external valleys;
- other necessary elements are wall profiles, pediments, metal tile eaves, the installation of which is an obligatory part of the roofing arrangement.
Important! The presence of all of the listed elements among the seller’s offers is an indicator of the level of the company that produces metal tiles, which may also indicate the quality of the products themselves.
In addition, it is worth paying attention to studying the markings, which must be present on each certified material. Typically, production indicates all the characteristics of the material itself, as well as the level of quality anti-corrosion coating, which is applied on top of the sheet.
So, here is what information you can glean by reading the information provided on the back of the metal tile sheet:
- presence of polymers;
- how much zinc is per 1 m² of sheet;
- production date and warranty period for the use of the material;
- manufacturer's name;
- sheet thickness.
During the visual inspection, you need to pay attention to the integrity of the protective layer, both on the front and back sides of the sheet, as well as the presence of all required markings.
Important! If we are talking about material purchased from a large manufacturer, then the marking will also contain information about the grade of steel used.
Installation of metal tiles: step-by-step instructions for independent work
Considering the fact that the price of installing metal tiles has never been low, many people prefer to try to do everything they need on their own. Although initially it is worth familiarizing yourself with how much professional installation of metal tiles costs. The price of work per m2 starts from 250 rubles and can increase depending on the complexity.
The process of installing a metal tile roof, the technology of which will be discussed below, consists of several stages, each of which has its own significance and must be carried out properly.
Laying metal tiles: preparatory stage and calculations
The first thing that needs to be done if a decision has been made to independently carry out the procedure for laying metal tiles on the roof surface is to carry out preliminary calculations. This is necessary in order to determine how much of what materials will be required and, accordingly, avoid unnecessary costs.
Let's start by clarifying some basic concepts so that in the future the question of how exactly a metal tile roof is constructed does not arise. If you look at a roof that has already been covered with this material, you can see that it consists of rows that run across the slope and waves. The distance from one row to another is called a step.
There is such a thing as a “model”. This name refers to sheets of metal tiles, the pitch of which is 35 cm, and the number of waves is 6. Sheets of modules 1, 3, 6 and 10 can be found on sale.
Useful advice! In addition to purchasing sheets of standard sizes, you can consider the option of individually manufacturing metal tiles to order. Of course, it will cost significantly more, but this way you can get exactly the material that is right for you. The main thing to remember is that the length of one sheet should not be less than 45 cm or more than 7 m.
During the selection process suitable size The sheet should be guided by the fact that after installation the joints and waves converge in such a way as to form a single coating along the entire length of the slope. It is quite easy to calculate the amount of material, taking into account the length of the roof and sheets.
When purchasing metal tiles, it is important to pay attention to some additional elements, which are included in the kit and allow you to carry out correct installation. This includes steel strips 2 m long, as well as steel sheets 200x125 cm, which must have the same color as the tiles.
When purchasing metal tiles, you need to make sure that these auxiliary elements are available in sufficient quantity and meet all requirements. For example, the standard bar inclination level is 30 degrees. Although other options are possible at the request of buyers - from 11 to 70 degrees.
Important! 11 degrees is the minimum slope at which metal tiles can be installed.
Materials and tools for laying metal tiles with your own hands
In order to install metal tiles with your own hands, you need to take care in advance of having some tools and materials that will allow you to carry out all the work as simply and efficiently as possible:
- screwdriver;
- electric drill;
- scissors for cutting metal;
- measuring tape;
- hammer;
- marker;
- mounting tape.
It is also worth taking care of the presence of a stepladder and means intended for personal protection of the face and hands (goggles, gloves).
As for the consumables that will be required to prepare the base and fasten the metal tiles, this list includes: waterproofing material, roofing strips, tiles, as well as an aeroroller, strips for the ridge and ends, a guide board and 2.5x10 cm boards. itself, you will also need fastening elements - self-tapping screws and special sealing washers for them.
Useful advice! To give the coating an attractive appearance, decorative overlays should be used.
How to attach metal tiles: stages of preparatory work
The low weight of metal tiles allows for a minimum amount of preparatory work, before proceeding with installation. Nevertheless, it is still necessary to prepare a suitable foundation. Since there is no need for a reinforced base, an ordinary wooden one made from slats is quite suitable.
The procedure is extremely simple - based on the pitch of the selected metal tile, slats are placed on the surface. It is important to maintain a uniform distance so that when attaching the roofing material you do not have to screw screws into the void. Another important factor to consider when installing the sheathing is the location of the windows. It is highly undesirable to place rafters directly above the windows.
Related article:
Thermal insulation during installation of a metal roof
When it comes to installing a roof made of metal tiles, the thermal insulation material is designed to solve two problems at once - to reduce heat loss, and also to reduce the noise level produced by raindrops hitting the surface. To do this, first lay on the rafters vapor barrier material, and then a layer of thermal insulation. In this case, it is important that the thickness of the layer does not exceed 25 cm. An antioxidant film is attached to the top, fixing it with wooden blocks directly to the rafters.
Important! In order to ensure that precipitation flows into the drain, the material must be fixed with a small allowance (about 2 cm). Due to such a small sagging there will be no problems with water drainage.
This “pie” is the maximum efficient system thermal insulation of the roof, which is allowed by the metal tile installation technology. As for the choice thermal insulation material, then there are several options that depend on cost, quality and manufacturer.
Installing a metal tile roof: basic operating rules
Before you begin work directly related to laying metal tiles, you need to familiarize yourself with some rules and concepts that will allow you to avoid common mistakes and do everything necessary with the highest possible quality:
- There are two ways to lay sheets of metal tiles: from right to left and from left to right. In the first case, each subsequent sheet must be laid overlapping the previous one, and in the second, the previous sheet must be overlapped.
- There is no need to attach each sheet completely at once. Before screwing the metal tiles, it is best to lay four sheets and lightly grab them with fasteners so that they hold. Then you need to make sure that they are located as needed and, if necessary, trim them. For final fastening, use one self-tapping screw that passes through all the sheets.
- The service life of the entire roof greatly depends on the quality of the fasteners used. Therefore, due attention should be paid to the choice of self-tapping screws. It is important that they are galvanized and must have special seals on the heads that can hermetically fill the holes when the self-tapping screw is completely screwed into the hole.
- In those places where several sheets were fastened with one fastener at once, one way or another, a seal will appear. In order to smooth it, it is necessary to cut off part of the corner, or you can straighten the capillary groove, which is located under the stamping line.
Scheme of fastening metal tiles and other necessary elements
Certain rules also exist for the installation of other mandatory elements, without which no roof can do. Here are some recommendations regarding the installation scheme of metal tiles and other elements:
- the end strips must be fixed with an overlap, which should be about 2 cm. In this case, the size of the wave must be adjusted in accordance with the width of the slope. Otherwise, you may encounter the fact that the ridge will fit onto the pediment;
- for the cornice strip it is also necessary to have an overlap of 10 cm on the bottom bar of the sheathing, to which it is attached with nails;
- It is imperative to lay an additional layer of sealing material between the metal tile sheet and the roofing strip;
- for the arrangement of all elements located below the ridge (pipes and windows), sheets with one module are used. Typically, 2 pieces are required for each structural element;
- if the roof slope is sloping, then it is necessary to additionally install an aerial roller between the ridge strip and the material itself. This will prevent penetration under the ridge. atmospheric precipitation;
- The ridge must be fixed to the planks, which are located at the end of the entire structure. In this case, calculations must be carried out taking into account the required protrusion, which is 2-3 cm. Moreover, if you have to deal with a flat ridge, then the fastening is done with an overlap, and for semicircular elements according to the profile lines;
- It is necessary to study in advance the specifics of installing a drip line under metal tiles, and strictly follow all instructions.
Useful advice! If you have to work with a roof whose inclination angle is more than 45 degrees, then it is worth carrying out calculations in advance that will allow you to determine whether it is possible to install a specific model of ridge strip in this case. This must be done, because otherwise, you may even need to completely replace the entire roofing covering.
It is also worth paying attention to the fact that, if necessary, the ridge strip can be slightly adjusted. That is, it can not be bent or straightened in order to ensure the most accurate repetition of the angle of the roof. You can learn more about such subtleties from the video instructions for installing metal tiles.
Installation of a valley when roofing with metal tiles
Another extremely important element, the installation rules of which cannot be neglected - valley. For each such element, an additional board must be attached. In this case, fastening must begin from the bottom, gradually moving upward and not forgetting about the need for overlap (in this case, 25-30 cm). Below the level of the cornice, be sure to cut off the bottom strip. Then follows the flanging, under which, as well as under the ridge, a seal is laid.
There remains a gap between the sheets and the axis, about 8-10 cm in size. Then, at a distance of approximately 1.5 cm from the stamping line, screws are screwed into the cut sheets. In this case, the fastening should be located 25 cm from the valley axis. If you follow this technology, then eventually the sheet, at the fastening point, will converge with the board on which the valley is located.
As for the installation of the valley below, it must begin before laying the roofing material. This is important to ensure that water flows directly into the additional element in the future.
Important! All errors in the process of calculations and measurements can lead to the appearance of gaps on the surface, and when heavy precipitation begins, the roof will most likely leak.
In order to cover those places where the cut sheets are visible, special decorative overlays are used. When installing them, you also need to remember a few simple rules:
- installation must be done from the bottom up;
- a sealant between the lining and the tile is not needed;
- the overlays must be overlapped by at least 10 cm;
- fastening elements (in this case self-tapping screws) should not cause damage to the valley.
Very often you have to deal with situations where the beginning and end of the valleys are located directly on the roof slope. As an example, consider the case when installing dormer window. In such a situation, it is necessary to lay a separate board, and for the window itself, a hole is made in the metal tile sheet. The cornice cut is covered with a plank. And sealing material must be laid along the walls.
How to lay metal tiles on a roof with a triangular or trapezoidal slope
If there is a need to cover a triangular or trapezoidal roof with metal tiles, then the installation of two additional bars will be required. They are installed along the fold line of the roof on both sides of the “ridge”. After this, the cornice board is installed and the assembly of the sheathing begins. The sheathing pitch for metal tiles in this case is calculated in the same way as with the standard scheme. Then the cornice system is installed. They begin to lay the metal tiles only after all these procedures have been carried out, orienting and aligning the first sheet along the eaves strip.
Important! The distance between the corner sheets that were trimmed and installed near the “ridge” should not exceed 10 cm.
In order to install the ridge knots you need to align ridge strips relative to the angle of the "ridge". If you use a straight ridge, it must be cut according to the existing corners, and for a semicircular ridge special plugs are provided. Moreover, it is best to use plastic models.
The ridge strip must be located strictly along the axis of the “ridge”. This is not too difficult a task if the slope angles are the same. If they have different sizes, then the task becomes significantly more complicated. Bright polyurethane foam is used as an auxiliary material, which allows you to determine the quality of the connection to the slopes.
Installation instructions for metal tiles "Monterrey"
A separate type of metal tile that is undoubtedly worthy of attention is Monterrey. This option is very popular due to some exceptional characteristics:
- extremely high level resistance of the material to both ultraviolet radiation, as well as to other external factors, for example, moisture and temperature;
- due to the layer of polymer applied to the surface of the tile, it does not lose its appearance throughout its entire service life;
- the material is extremely durable and hard, so it can withstand heavy loads;
- multilayer structure prevents corrosion;
- due to its low weight (one square meter of material weighs no more than 5 kg), the load on the rafter system is significantly reduced;
- using this option is a great savings, since there is no need to take a large step between fasteners. Initially, the installation instructions for Monterrey metal tiles provide for 35-centimeter steps.
This material has only two disadvantages - a large amount of residue after installation, as well as the need for high-quality sound insulation.
As for the features that you need to know about before laying Montrerey metal tiles, the following aspects play a role here:
- For various models of this material, it is necessary to prepare various lathing. So, for Standard or Super metal tiles, a step of 35 cm will be enough, but for Lux or Maxi, the step should be 40 cm;
- in the most difficult places roofs (usually internal corners, as well as the place where the chimney outlet is located), you need to make a continuous sheathing;
- on the junction strips, for the chimney exit, you need to install internal aprons;
- the installation instructions for Monterrey metal tiles do not provide for the use of material whose length is more than 4 m;
- Before installing the material must be removed protective coating, since this may not be possible in the future.
It is strictly forbidden to cut the sheet in the transverse direction, as this may lead to the profile becoming wrinkled. Also, under no circumstances should you use a grinder or other tools with abrasive wheels for this purpose.
Interesting! Cascade metal tiles also look great, the installation instructions for which are not too different from all the others. But the appearance of such a roof is considered more aesthetic and original.
How to properly care for a metal roof covering
Having studied step by step instructions installation of metal siding, you can carry out its high-quality installation. But in order for the material to last for many years, you need to know how to care for it.
The top layer of metal tiles is a polymer material that is designed to protect against corrosive processes. But as a result of constant exposure external factors: atmospheric precipitation, ultraviolet rays, as well as dust and dirt, this layer may begin to deteriorate, which will lead to the need to replace the coating. In order to avoid this phenomenon and extend the service life of the roof, it is necessary to regularly carry out the following procedures:
- remove dirt, dust and dry leaves from the surface using a damp fluffy brush;
- If we are talking about eliminating more complex stains, then it is permissible to use cleaning agents, but only those intended for polymer surfaces. The use of aggressive chemicals is strictly prohibited, as they destroy the protective layer and render the material unusable;
- cleaning of gutters is carried out using a stream of water, which should be directed from the ridge to the eaves;
- It is possible and necessary to clear snow, but this should only be done using tools that are not capable of causing damage to the delicate coating.
Subject to these simple but extremely important rules, metal roofing can serve as a roofing material for about 50 years.
Common mistakes when installing a metal tile roof with your own hands
Inexperienced craftsmen often make mistakes, which can lead to the fact that the work will have to be partially, and sometimes completely, redone. Such carelessness can lead to additional expenses for the purchase of materials and consumables, so it is better to familiarize yourself with common mistakes in advance in order to prevent them:
- installation of metal tiles should be carried out exclusively in shoes with soft soles that cannot damage or scratch the coating;
- It is strictly forbidden to step on the crest of a wave, as this may cause deformation;
- Moreover, it is generally not recommended to step on the sheets with a full foot;
- when moving along the surface of the material, the leg should be placed parallel, and not perpendicular to the slope;
- You can only handle the material while wearing gloves.
Taking these into account complex rules, as well as acting in accordance with the technology of laying metal tiles, you can independently make a beautiful and reliable roof.
Installation of snow guards on metal tiles: instructions and their varieties
A high level of safety is one of the main requirements for roofing made of any material, including metal tiles. For this purpose, special structures are used, which are called snow retainers. And the main goal is to ensure safe snow removal from the roof and prevent possible dangerous situations. In addition, they help maintain the original shape of the structure and prevent it from deforming under the weight of icy snow. And considering that its weight in some cases can exceed the weight of the roof itself, this problem is quite relevant.
Important! The issue of distributing the load that snow puts on the roof surface should be thought out at the stage of laying the foundation. This factor must be taken into account in the calculations.
It is almost impossible to predict exactly how snow will be distributed on the roof surface. This depends on many factors, including the angle of the roof, wind direction, etc. Therefore, in order to make calculations, a special formula is used:
Q = G×s
In this case, Q is the load exerted by the snow, G is the mass of snow on the flat surface of the roof, which can be found from a special table, and S is the correction factor, which depends on the angle of the roof: > 25° - 1, if 25- 60° - 0.7. If the degree of inclination is more than 60, then this is not taken into account, since in this case precipitation will definitely not linger on the surface.
In order to determine the G index, you need to refer to a special table that provides information regarding snow cover for each region of the country.
Installation of tubular snow guards on metal tiles: installation rules
As a rule, a pipe is used as a basis for snow retention, which is laid along the roof. In the case of using metal tiles as a roofing material, fixation is made in the places where the roof and load-bearing wall connect.
It is strictly prohibited to fix these elements on the eaves strip for metal tiles, as this may lead to the destruction of the entire system. Moreover, if you have to deal with a slope whose length is quite large, then the installation of snow retainers on metal tiles must be done in several rows at once to ensure a more reliable fixation.
The tubes themselves are mounted on the roof either end-to-end or in a checkerboard pattern. Special attention should be paid to installing such a system if the house has an attic. In this case, the installation must be carried out in such a way that a snow guard is located above each window opening. As for the distance from the edge of the roof to the elements, 40-50 cm is quite enough.
Lattice snow guards for metal roofing: how to attach correctly
Lattice snow retainers are considered the most effective, so those users who are interested in the quality of the installed systems preferentially choose this option. There are two types of such structures - ordinary and “royal”, although it is worth recognizing that there is not much difference between them, with the exception of the supports and the complexity of the lattice.
The high level of efficiency and safety of this type of snow retainer is due to their considerable height, due to which they may not be useful not only in winter when it comes to retaining snow, but also in summer. After all, it is during the warm season that all kinds of repair work are most often carried out.
Corner snow retainers for metal tiles
Corner snow guards are thin steel sheets that are coated with a polymer coating that protects them from corrosion. This is one of the most budget options, which at the same time allows you to effectively prevent snow from rolling off the roof. It is very easy to choose a model that will suit your existing metal tiles, since the range of color options is extremely large.
To fix the corner snow guards on the roof of a metal tile roof, screws and ordinary metal corners are used. Fastening is carried out on the upper wave of the sheet.
These are not all design options that can be used to prevent snow from rolling off the roof. Metal tiles are perfectly combined with many models and varieties of these elements, so there will definitely not be any problems with selection and fixation.
Installation of a roof window in metal tiles
It is believed that installing roof windows is not a task for beginners, and it is best to contact specialists who have adequate experience in this field. But this does not mean that it is impossible to do it yourself, especially if you use step-by-step instructions for dummies. The installation of metal tiles and the installation of the window itself in this case may well proceed without any problems.
First of all, it is worth paying attention to the fact that the maximum possible width of such a window should be 80-120 mm less than the opening between the rafters. In cases where the rafter pitch is very small, two small windows are installed in adjacent niches.
The installation of the window is carried out after the roofing “pie” is completely made, then you need to install the mounting beam, for which I use the same boards as for the rafter system. Then the frame is installed and the sashes are installed. It is very important to take care of high-quality waterproofing so that in the future the window does not become a source of precipitation entering the house.
Of course, you have to make some changes to the process of installing the sheathing under the metal tiles, and pay special attention to the issue of installing the ridge of the metal tiles if you plan dormer window. But all these difficulties are more than justified by the excellent result that awaits the owners as a result.
Installation of metal tiles: video instructions for beginners
For those who have never done such work before, it will be extremely useful to watch a video on how to attach metal tiles to a roof. A visual demonstration, as well as recommendations from specialists, will allow you to avoid mistakes and independently make a beautiful and reliable roof that will serve well for many years.
