When installing an additional sink or remodeling household premises there is a need to change the routing of the sewerage system. In some cases, it will be enough to organize 1 auxiliary tie-in or several. If the house is laid fan system, made from modern materials, then such work will not be difficult.

In many Soviet-built houses, the sewage system is made of cast iron pipes of different diameters. In this case, the work will require not only the ability to handle plumbing tools, but also knowledge of the basics of the plumbing craft.

Tapping into a cast iron pipe

Before making the insert, you need to complete a series preparatory work. IN apartment buildings sewer pipes run in technological shafts. To get to them, it is necessary to dismantle part of the wall masonry and prepare the place for work. The better this stage is completed, the easier it will be to work. To arrange the insert, you will need the following tools and materials:

grinder with cutting wheel for metal;
a set of metalwork tools;
hammer drill or drill;
fittings, tees, bends, adapters;
sealing mastics, clamps.

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare a drawing (diagram) of the area to be mounted indicating the exact dimensions. Any inaccuracies during installation may result in an increase in the volume of operations performed. IN multi-storey buildings It would be a good idea to notify your neighbors about the work being carried out and ask them not to use the sewer during this period.

How to tap into a cast iron pipe?

Box in sewer pipe can be done in several ways. It depends on the size of the pipes. The most commonly used products are internal diameter 100 mm and wall thickness from 7.5 to 9 mm. To cut a pipe of a smaller diameter into a larger one, no special skills are required and such work will not be difficult, especially on a horizontal section.

If it is necessary to install a tee or connect products made of different materials, then installation may cause some difficulties. Before cutting into a cast iron sewer pipe, you need to accurately calculate the insertion location. It should not interfere with the movement of the main flow and lead to a narrowing of the flow area. On a horizontal section of the system, it is possible to install the pipe vertically or at an angle of 45°.

Due to the fact that plastic and cast iron pipes are manufactured according to different specifications, their outer diameters differ from each other. In order to join such products, rubber-metal couplings of the UR-12 type are most often used. In this case, tightness is achieved using a rubber sealing ring, which is squeezed out when the structure is tightened. At the same time, this device ensures a tight connection with a deviation from the axis of 8°. The use of a coupling guarantees tightness at wastewater temperatures up to +70°C.

Tapping with a tee

Installation of such a device is possible both on a transit riser and in an existing outlet. In this case, the tee will be used as an additional element of the system's indoor wiring. The first option involves cutting out part of the riser and replacing it with the required unit. This operation can be performed using plastic or cast iron fittings. Most often used PVC products This makes the assembly and installation of the tee much easier.

The installed unit is assembled separately in the room. In addition to the tee, experts recommend using a compensator. It will identify any inaccuracies in the marking of the insertion site and will facilitate installation. Before cutting out the required section of 110 mm pipe, it would be useful to secure the transit riser with fastening clamps to fix it immovably. Fasteners are installed below and above the cut part. In this case, you must not forget to make allowances for the installation and movement of the compensator (adapter).

Cut the pipe with a grinder. If it is not possible to make a circular cut, then it is completed using a hacksaw for metal. Experts do not recommend trying to do this with a hammer and chisel, because... The required part of the riser may collapse. The outer walls are cleaned for planting wire brush or a scraper, and burrs are removed with a file. Before installing fittings seats you need to coat it with sealant and check the installation of the rubber O-rings.

The compensator is installed first and moves up for ease of installation of the tee. After its installation, the previously installed part is moved and secured in the socket. In order to remove unpleasant odors, the pipe is closed with a plug.

Installing a tee indoors is easier. The main difficulty lies in caulking the old input. For installation, shaped parts made of PVC are used. It is better to use bitumen-based mastics and pastes as a sealant.

Mortise using an overlay

This operation is performed without removing a segment of the riser. To do this, it is necessary to accurately determine the insertion point, drill or

cut a hole and install an adapter with an outlet the right size. Installation of the lining can be carried out on pipes of different diameters. The size of the hole to be made will depend on their size, which should not be more than half the diameter of the pipe.

The overlay can be purchased at the store or made by yourself. To do this, take a shaped part with a discharge of the necessary

size and cut it out, leaving part of the wall of the product. This is necessary to seal the installation site. To ensure sufficient density, the pipe is cleaned, burrs and casting defects are removed. The installation site of the lining is lubricated with sealant. The device is fixed using clamps. Excess paste is removed.

Adapter industrial production It is installed in exactly the same way, only it is secured with bolts. The tightness of the area is ensured by rubber sealing rings. Insertion using welding is not carried out on cast iron pipes, since it is impossible to achieve the required tightness.

Drilling cast iron pipe

Drill a hole required diameter in a cast iron sewer pipe is not always possible. This is due to the diameter of the drills available. The size of the drill chuck rarely exceeds 10-12 mm. To make a hole with a diameter of more than 10 mm, it is perforated in a circle and cut out using a hacksaw blade.

This work requires care and patience. To make drilling easier, it is necessary to remove the top hardened layer of metal. The work is performed with a low-speed drill. The holes are made in several stages, using drills from smaller to larger diameters. The sharpening angle of the cutting edge should be within 110-115°. Periodically, the drill must be cooled, preferably in machine oil. When drilling a hole, you need to apply minimum effort to the drill.

Pipes and fittings are made from gray cast iron. If you come across white products, they cannot be processed at home, but their service life is disproportionately longer.

Safety features when performing work

Installation work is closely related to the implementation of safety precautions. Following the rules will help avoid injury and equipment damage. Since when working with sewerage a mass appears unpleasant odors, it is necessary to provide the installation site with good ventilation. Operating power tools on wet equipment requires special attention and the use of protective equipment against electric shock.

To prevent the tool or dismantled parts from falling into the shaft, they must be secured and removed from the installation area after cutting. When working with electric cutting tools, be sure to wear a protective mask or goggles. Work should only be carried out with gloves. This will protect your hands from damage and infection.

Carrying out the most simple rules will reduce the risk of injury and improve the quality of work.

Insertion into a sewer pipe is necessary when installing internal or external domestic sewerage for a new home, for drainage storm water to treatment facilities, connecting a new plumbing fixture (sink, dishwasher or washing machine). A skillfully executed insertion will help to avoid a radical replacement of elements of the existing sewer system.

Supply methods

Insertion into a sewer pipe new branch involves connecting an apartment or house to a local sewer system, to vertical risers or a horizontal bed. There are many ways to make eyeliner correctly and reliably. And the market building materials offers large selection all kinds of devices in the form of adapters. But for proper operation sewerage after insertion, you need to know what are the simplest ways to make an insertion into the sewerage system, without involving expensive specialists, but by doing everything plumbing work on one's own.

Supply into a plastic pipeline

When starting to tap into a sewer pipe, you need to prepare for the fact that the work will be dirty, which means you will need to wear special clothing. Before starting the process, you need to understand that all horizontal lines must have a slope.

The amount of slope will depend on the diameter of the workpiece:

for diameter 50 mm optimal slope - 3,5%;
for 110 mm – 2%;
for 160 mm – 1%.

It is not recommended to make larger slopes (counter-slopes), since silt deposits will settle on the inner walls, narrowing the clearance. It is more rational to cut into a horizontal pipeline from above, this way there will be fewer blockages and possible leaks during operation.

To insert a new wiring into an existing one, you need a pipe (a small section of pipe) and clamps that will play the role of fastening elements. Once all the necessary parts have been purchased, you can begin work on inserting PVC sewer pipes.

Sequence of actions

Work must be performed in the following sequence:

Close the sewer outlet.
Drill a hole in the plastic wall for a new input.
Secure the pipe in this hole.
Insert a corrugated rubber seal inside the pipe.
Secure the joints with a clamp and tighten with a screw connection (included with the clamp).
Install a new sewer line into the outlet pipe.

You can buy a clamp ready-made, or you can make it yourself. For self-made you need to perform a number of actions:

Take a plastic blank equal in cross-section to the existing pipeline.
Cut a piece of it to the required length.
Saw lengthwise.
Drill a hole in one half equal in diameter to the new pipe.
Glue the outlet pipe into the gap.
Treat the joint with a hermetic compound.
Apply the clamp to the hole cut in the existing pipe (glue and seal).
Connect with second constituent element clamp.
Secure with wire.

Application of a tee

A tee is necessary to connect several additional sections to the main sewer. When inserting a new sewer outlet into sewer pipes, PVC tees are rarely used, since joining two plastic parts carried out in this way is fraught with depressurization of the connection zones. Such adapters are more often used in the case of insertion into cast iron wiring.

When inserting into a sewer pipe using a tee, you need to perform the following steps:

Buy a straight tee.
Close the existing sewer.
Cut out the section of the cast iron pipe where the supply will be made.
Install the tee.
Insert the supplied systems into the holes of the tee (this must be done as deep as possible).

To secure the supplied wiring in the desired position, a special bracket is used. The main difficulty may be connecting the existing wiring to the tee if the cast iron system is old. Old outlets are often located close to the floor and may be difficult to access due to tiles. It seems difficult to make a joint when the pipes fit tightly to the wall. All these reasons impair access to the attachment point.

Gaps and joints of connections are protected with sealant. Silicone fillers are considered high-quality sealing materials, epoxy resins, special sealing tapes are now very popular. Before sealing, the cast iron joint must be cleaned of grease, dirt, and old waterproofing, after which you can wrap the part of the existing wiring with the new tee with two layers of sealing tape.

Using the adapter

An adapter for plumbing work is a device that is designed to connect pipelines that do not have a convenient connection. The method of inserting into the sewer using an adapter is used when it is necessary to connect additional plumbing (for example, a washing machine), and it is not possible to disassemble or cut the existing pipeline.

Such a connection is only possible to the sewer PVC pipe, in which a hole is cut according to the size of the supplied branch. The adapter has the form of a cap with a tap for a connected input. The introduced pipeline must be much smaller in cross-section than the main one (at least 2 times). This requirement is a disadvantage, since it is necessary to have exactly this ratio of the main and supply wiring.

The procedure for inserting into a sewer pipe using an adapter:

Turn off the water.
Dry the pipeline.
Drill a hole equal to the diameter of the adapter (if the diameter of the existing pipeline is 50 mm, the hole for the adapter should be no more than 22 mm, with a cross-section of 110 mm, the inlet should be 50 mm in diameter).
Insert the adapter into the finished hole.
Cover the adapter with sealing material.
Secure with a clamp.
Insert the rubber seal (cuff) into the adapter outlet.
Install a new pipeline.

Input into the sewer plastic riser

When connecting sewer outlets to existing risers, you can purchase all the parts and elements necessary for the work at a plumbing store. The kit will include blanks of the required cross-section, connecting collars, rubber gaskets, and clamps. But you need to know that when making a tie-in into a riser, additional system supply will act on it with increased load.

To embed a pipeline into a vertical sewer riser, you need to purchase a compensator. A pipeline compensator is a device that reduces harmful effects on materials, reducing loads on structures, preventing various negative impacts from pressure and vibration, thereby extending the working life of the sewer system.

To connect the liner to the sewer riser, you must have an adjustable socket on required quantity bends and homemade or ready-made clamps.

Having everything to complete the work, you can begin eyeliner:

Determine the cutting point.
Cut out part of the riser for the new pipeline.
Install the compensator and tee tightly into the upper part of the riser.
Treat all connecting seams with sealant.
Connect the necessary systems to the tee.
Attach the sewer riser to the wall using clamps as fastenings.

Tapping into a sewer pipe is quite simple

To connect a dishwasher or washing machine, depending on the sewer pipes (plastic or cast iron), an insertion is made in different ways. Accordingly, we need various instruments and materials.

To do everything correctly, you must first clear the area in which the insertion is required, since, for example, in an apartment the sewer system may be covered with decorative boxes or furniture.

Materials for tapping into a sewer pipe are sold in a store that sells plumbing supplies.

It is also advisable to clean the sewer with a cable before inserting it or use different chemicals, and after that you can begin the final work.

This method has a number of disadvantages, one of them is the formation of burrs during drilling, which somewhat reduces the clearance and can lead to faster clogging of the system. The second drawback is that with such an insertion it is impossible to drain a large amount of water, especially with a powerful stream. In this case, water may begin to drip from under the adapter, despite the sealing, ranging from a few drops to fairly powerful streams.

If, For example,An old cast iron pipe is installed and access to it is limited; the insertion is done in the following way:

Using an electric drill and special metal bits, a hole of the required diameter is drilled; if possible, any burrs formed inside should be removed.
A so-called sewer adapter insert, which has a semicircular body and an outlet, is put on top.
Before applying it, you should thoroughly coat it with plumbing sealant. inner part, and then tightly press the device with clamps to the main structure.

During the work (if the apartment is not on top floor) neighbors should be warned not to use the sewer system while necessary plumbing work is being carried out.

In a cast iron sewer

Despite the emergence of modern plumbing materials, in particular plastic and metal-plastic products, cast iron sewer options are installed in many houses, especially older buildings.

To cut into them at home, you must use a grinder to drill a hole.

The old fashioned method (hacksaw + hammer) cannot be used, especially on old pipes, as there is a risk of breaking them either completely or partially.

After inserting, you should check whether everything is sealed

Instructions:

Markings are made on the pipe with chalk indicating which section needs to be cut out.
After this, cuts are made. If the grinder disc does not allow you to completely make a hole, you should finish it with a hacksaw.
The edges of the cuts are carefully cleaned, all burrs are removed, then a plastic tee with cuffs is prepared.
Rubber cuffs are placed on the cut ends of the cast iron pipe; before doing this, it is advisable to lubricate them with plumbing sealant. It is advisable to lightly tap each cuff around the perimeter with a rubber or wooden mallet.
It is advisable to lubricate the part of the plastic tee that will be inserted into the cuffs with a special silicone grease for plumbing.
First, one end of the tee is put on, then the other. Not all the way at first so that adjustments can be made.
After this, the tee is finally put in place, and then connected to it additional element to drain water.

After purchasing an apartment, people, as a rule, do renovations in it, during which it is best to change all the old cast iron sewer to a modern plastic one. The same applies to the entire water supply system.

To the plastic system

In modern plastic sewer making a tie-in is incomparably easier than making an old cast-iron one. The easiest way is to use a tee, which is purchased with the same diameter as the plastic pipe itself.

Namely:

The polyethylene pipe should be cut into 2 parts;
A cuff is placed over each cut area;
Then a tee is inserted into it, and the entire system is finally fixed.

During installation, it is imperative to use plumbing sealant. If you don’t want to cut completely, then you can limit yourself to drilling a hole of the diameter that is required. If the sewer pipe or riser is 50 mm in diameter, then the hole needs to be drilled 22 mm, if 110 mm, then the hole diameter can be 50 mm.

You can cut a hole in a plastic pipe using an electric jigsaw.

After drilling, the hole should be processed with a file and sandpaper so that no burrs remain. A special adapter purchased in a store is lubricated with sealant, inserted into the hole and secured with clamps.

Insertion into the water supply system is carried out in the following way. A set of saddle clamps is purchased. They are 2 semicircular halves of a plastic pipe with rubber gaskets and with an outlet hole in one of them. The water is shut off, a hole is drilled, then the saddle clamps are installed in the intended place and tightened together using bolts.

Into the fan pipe

This element connects sewer network with atmosphere. This is necessary to prevent rarefaction of air in the sewer and the suction of water from siphons in apartments. When the water leaves the siphons, odors from the sewer begin to penetrate into the apartment.

If such elements were not installed initially during construction, then a tie-in should be made into the sewer riser.

Sometimes it happens that one outlet from the sewer is not enough or one pipe is made for several risers. In this case, it is necessary to make an additional insert either into the riser or into the pipe. If it is plastic, then making an insert into it is quite simple. But if it is made of metal or cast iron, then more effort will be required, since you will need to saw the riser, insert a tee and perform a fairly large amount of work.

To make an insert into a sewer pipe, 1 person is enough

Nuances:

The pipe should be purchased with the same diameter as the riser;
It can be embedded relative to the riser at either an angle of 45ᵒ or 90ᵒ;
The drain pipe cuts into the sewer riser just like any other;
Its end must be brought out onto the roof so that the distance is at least 50 cm.

It is important to do everything correctly and not rush to get the result, because if improper installation Everything will need to be redone, and this will require additional costs both in material terms and in terms of labor.

If the owner of the house cannot or does not want to do everything on his own, you can turn to professionals. You just need to check in advance different companies, how much it will cost to either completely replace the entire sewer system, or partially insert into the existing one.

In some cases, it is necessary to connect a separate outlet to the sewer section. The specifics of the process depend on the material, available accessories and type of system. Please note that it is necessary to make an insert into the sewer pipe only in accordance with the technology used; only in this case can the quality of the connection and its long-term operation be guaranteed without the need for repairs. If you carry out the work in accordance with the requirements and instructions, it is quite possible for a beginner and a person without experience.

Insertion into a metal pipe

Depending on the time of laying the sewer, the materials used may differ. Old sewer systems made of metal carriers, the connection to which is carried out physically. In other words, the metal is cut and an additional output is added using welding (including cold welding) or through a tee.

This is the so-called economy option for systems that are located in in good condition. If the area is heavily damaged by rust or dirty, it makes sense to replace the entire pipeline along with the connection.

From quite obvious advice, let's get down to business - let's look at the question of how to make an insert into a cast-iron sewer pipe. In practice, it is not uncommon to have to not only cut into, but connect the pipeline with a metal-plastic section. In practice, the reliability of such work leaves much to be desired. At the same time, materials have been proposed that can be used to effectively join metal materials and "plastic". Let's talk about connecting to a sewer pipe.

For these purposes, a mortise clamp is used, which is an adapter between a diameter of 110 mm and the selected size. Mortise clamps are sold in a wide range and allow you to switch to almost any diameter. The accessory is selected depending on the type of sewer; there are models that allow cutting under pressure.

For domestic needs, the usual flange version is suitable. It holds the connection securely and does not require maintenance. If repairs to the area are also required, use an overlapping model.

Instructions:

Clean the area of rust.
Drill a hole required diameter.
Install the clamp elbow.
Tighten the nuts simultaneously and evenly.

Similar work can be done using a coupling saddle. This is a reliable, although more expensive, mount. If you don't want to incur costs, make an insert that switches to "plastic". At the same time, mortise couplings and saddles will provide high-quality and extremely durable inserts that do not require repairs throughout the entire service life. They are applicable, including for wells.

There are products from Russian and foreign manufacturers on the market. The recommendations of many craftsmen concern Jimten sliding couplings, which provide required quality connections at a fairly low price.

Insertion into a cast iron pipe with a transition to a section made of plastic

The sequence of work on connecting to a cast iron pipe with a high-quality transition to new site:

This is how you connect to systems standard sizes, the diameter of the sewer section is, respectively, 110 mm. Drilling a hole in this case with a “crown” is labor-intensive, so we recommend making a marking and a crosswise cut using a grinder, then removing the internal segments of the joint. The hole will turn out to be in the form of a diamond, but this does not interfere with the quality of the work.
Next, the fastening is done using unigum mastic or similar; a layer up to 5 mm thick and 3-5 cm wide is applied around the hole.
If there is no jimten drain, it can be cut from a plastic sewer element with a 50 mm adapter.
The cuff is attached to the mastic. Tighten it with clamps.

The proposed method provides a reliable and aesthetic solution to the problem of the transition between the old and new sections PVC sewer. It is recommended by experts for open areas, for example, to connect to a sun lounger in the basement. Such a connection must be checked periodically, although the materials used guarantee a durable connection that does not require additional maintenance.

Insertion into the plastic area and fixation with glue

Instructions for connecting to PVC:

Determine the center of the hole with the adapter you will use. Note that inserts are often made with a smaller diameter than the classic sewer size of 110 mm. For washing machines, bathtub, washbasin, 50 mm is enough.
Using a special attachment with a diameter of 50 mm, make a hole with a drill.
Clean out the hole using a paper knife or other sharp object.
Be sure to thoroughly remove dust and dirt afterwards.
Degrease the surface using adhesive sealant.
Mark the outline of the overlay on the base using a pencil.
Apply special adhesive sealant to the outer surface in two passes.
Also apply adhesive-sealant to the part, along the contour with inside.
Connect the pipeline and the part to each other.
Fix it for a while masking tape.
Apply glue to inner surface terminal in the glued part, coat well with a layer of 2-3 mm.
Insert the adapter elbow to which the lead will be attached.
Remove excess glue.
After the glue has dried, remove the tape and finish installing the outlet into the sewer from the device.

Connection to the sewer below ground level

To insert an additional sewer outlet into a well below ground level as in the photo, another method is used, namely 45 and 90 degree tees. This connection will allow you to connect to the sewer summer kitchen or a bathhouse.

To work you will need:

tee with the required slope and outlet diameter;
coupling with which it will be connected to the pipeline.

Instructions:

Make a well to the connection point; under the installation site you need a recess into which the liquid will drain.
Make marks according to the size of the tee.
Cut the pipeline using a grinder.
Use a grinder to process the cuts.
Clean away any dirt and chips.
Treat the edges of the coupling with sealant and place it on the pipeline.
Put on the tee and push the coupling, make a branch connection, and be sure to treat all joints with glue-sealant.

For connection to a plastic sewer with a 45 or 90 degree tee, watch the video:

You can see in detail how this is done in the video. Connection to a cast iron pipe is carried out using a 110 mm mortise coupling. The Jimten brand also has sewer drains that allow you to cut in and switch to PVC without hassle, without cutting off the sewer section. This is one of a limited number of brands that produce such devices.

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Tapping into a sewer pipe: simple and complex methods

I'm going to devote this article to how to cut into a sewer pipe. We'll figure out how optimal ways, which I can recommend with a light heart to everyone, as well as crisis solutions that can be resorted to in the absence of alternatives.

When you need it

There are several typical reasons for creating an unplanned cut-in:

Connecting a new plumbing fixture or item household appliances(sink, washing machine or dishwasher);
Connecting a new bathroom or kitchen (say, when adding a second floor to a house, new room or when moving a toilet in an apartment);
Insertion of a newly built house into the sewer network of a village or city.

If the first case involves connecting to the local sewerage system of a house or apartment, then the third and, less often, the second - to risers or a drainage system (horizontal sewer line) connecting several apartments, or even houses.
Accordingly, during the work we will not be able to control the absence of wastewater.
Be prepared for the job to be quite messy.

General principles

There are not many of them.

All horizontal sections sewers must have a constant slope in the direction of flow of waste. The size of the slope is determined by the diameter of the pipe and for the most common sizes is:

Counterclones are strictly prohibited: silt and body fat, narrowing the lumen of the pipe;

It is better to cut into horizontal pipes so that the drains flow from above. In this case, during the insertion process, the surgical field will be less flooded. In addition, there is less chance of leaks (including due to blockages): your tie-in will not be constantly filled with someone else’s wastewater.
Of course, the insertion device should not contradict the first recommendation;

It is advisable to use oblique tees, in which the lateral outlet is directed in the direction of movement of the common drains. They will greatly facilitate cleaning when clogged;
If possible, the sockets should be oriented against the direction of movement. waste water . Each connection assembled “against the grain” is a potential place for blockages to occur;
The same applies to all kinds of protrusions and burrs inside the sewer. Over time, any unevenness will become overgrown with wool, hair, grease, and trap rags and other debris.

Methods

Now it's time to get down to specifics.

Insertion of a plumbing fixture

The simplest instructions are for inserting into a sewer comb (indoor sewerage distribution).

Let me explain each point:

Near the intended installation site there are almost always other plumbing fixtures - a bathtub, washbasin or sink. The piping of such a device is connected to the socket of the comb (usually a rubber sealing collar). You need to carefully remove the elbow or corrugated hose and cuff from the socket;

The hard plastic elbow will have to be disconnected from the siphon first.
Don't lose the O-ring underneath; you'll need it to reseal the joint.

Then an oblique or straight tee of the appropriate diameter (usually 50 mm) is installed in the socket. A straight tee is used only if an oblique tee does not allow connecting a new device at a convenient angle.

The installation method of the tee is determined by the sewerage material: for plastic, an assembly with ring seals is used; cast iron is minted with a heel (or, which is much more reliable, with a graphite gland) and sealed with cement diluted to the consistency of thick sour cream without adding sand;

A plastic tee can be used with a cast iron comb. It is connected to it with a rubber sealing coupling. Be sure to thoroughly clean the cast iron flare of deposits and rust before assembly. It is advisable to seal the connection with a sealant: it compensates for unevenness of the socket and will prevent the connection from leaking when the rubber seal dries.

The old and new plumbing fixtures are connected to the tee. The connections are sealed whenever possible: in this case, you will be guaranteed to be free from sewer odors.

In houses modern construction Plastic prefabricated intra-apartment sewage system with rubber seals is used. To make a new connection washing machine or washbasin more neat, you can install a tee in any collapsible connection.

In order for the connection points the following devices have not moved, the branch pipe closest to the tee, located opposite the flow of the drains, is shortened by the length of the tee minus the socket. For cutting, it is better to use a grinder with any cutting wheel, but a garden hacksaw will also work. Don't forget to clean off any burrs and remove the outer chamfer.

Connection to the riser

How to cut into a sewer riser with a pipe of equal diameter?

For everyone in the slightest degree modern houses a 110 mm sewer connection is relevant. It is with this diameter that risers have been installed for many years, connecting 5, 9, 14 or more floors. In my extensive plumbing practice, I have encountered only two exceptions:

In a small family house built in 1971, the kitchens were combined with a separate riser with a diameter of 50 mm;
In Stalinist buildings built in 1951, the risers were mounted with a 160 mm pipe.

For insertion, the following shaped parts are needed:

A tee to the central outlet of which you will connect your internal sewer;

A compensating pipe is a product with an elongated socket that allows it to be pulled onto a pipe of the corresponding diameter by approximately 200 mm;

If the insert is not adjacent to the socket of the riser, you will additionally need a sewer coupling.

The plastic fitting is compatible with cast iron pipes. However, the latter will have to be cleaned of layers of paint and rust. For this purpose, you can use a regular sharp knife.

Preparatory activities

Let me remind you: tapping into a riser means that you will have to completely open the pipe through which someone else’s waste flows. Including from the toilet. Therefore, the work begins with several preparatory activities.

Go around all your neighbors up the riser and ask them not to use the sewer for 1 - 2 hours. For those who are not at home, leave notes indicating the time;
Prepare a large bucket or deep basin. Believe me, with a large number of apartments on the rise, someone will definitely forget about your request;
Remove all unnecessary items from the bathroom. Even if you place a basin under the disassembled riser in time, splashes will fly in all directions;
Put on work clothes. IN best case scenario it will have to be washed, or at worst, thrown away.

Inset

Let me explain each point of the above diagram.

We mark the length of the compensating pipe on the pipe, setting it aside from the socket;
Cut the pipe according to the mark. For cutting cast iron, it is most convenient to use a grinder with a metal cutting wheel; plastic can be sawed off with an ordinary garden hacksaw or the same grinder;
We take out the cut fragment from the socket. Be prepared for the fact that to do this you will have to make another cut in an arbitrary place closer to the bell. Plastic pipe simply rotate and remove from the seal; in the case of cast iron, you will have to first remove part of the caulking and caulking using a chisel or a screwdriver and a hammer;
We remove burrs from the inside of the cut pipe using sharp knife. WITH outside remove the chamfer: it will help avoid extra effort when pulling the compensator;
We wet the pipe and the compensator seal with liquid or regular soap moistened with water, cosmetic Vaseline, cream or any other non-aggressive lubricant. Again, it will noticeably reduce the effort when pulling and settling the compensator;

Do not use machine oils, diesel fuel or other fuels and lubricants. Rubber seals are not made from oil- and petrol-resistant rubber; they may crack and leak.

We pull the compensator onto the pipe with chamfered all the way;
We insert a tee into the socket;
We seat the compensator into its socket.

The insertion is complete. After assembling it, it is highly advisable to fix the neck of the socket of the compensating pipe to the clamp. This will eliminate the possibility of it moving in any direction.

If the tap is made far from the socket, the pipe is cut in two places.
After deburring and chamfering, a coupling is put on one of the ends.
Further operations are identical to those described above.

Connection to the bed

Do-it-yourself connection to a sewer drain - laid in a tray, soil, or a horizontal pipe hung in the basement - has one feature. There is no way you can completely stop the flow of wastewater through it. Accordingly, it is extremely undesirable to completely disassemble the pipe: several cubic meters of fetid wastewater will end up in the basement or flood the tray.

When conducting repair work When a sewer section is replaced, housing residents and Vodokanal employees completely turn off the water supply to their home or neighborhood.
However, this method is most likely not applicable for you: if one of the residents demands a recalculation for water supply services, the organization has the right to issue you an invoice.

The shaped part that is used in such cases is called - sewer connection. It is a branch with a wide clamp covering the entire pipe, or a simple plastic latch with rubber seal. The price of the simplest inserts starts from 300 - 400 rubles.

Depending on the device, the insert can be mounted in two ways:

In the first case, the hole is drilled with a crown of the appropriate diameter, after which the burrs are cleared and the shaped part is forcefully inserted into the hole. When the nut is tightened, the conical latch on it compresses the rubber seal and presses the part to the pipe;

In the second method, the operations are carried out in reverse order:

The insert is attached to the pipe using its own fasteners (several bolts) or a pair of clamps;
A hole is drilled directly through the outlet using a crown.

Conclusion

As you can see, some universal methods does not exist: the optimal method of connecting to the sewer is determined by the conditions and location of the insertion point. As always, more information can be found in the video in this article. Please feel free to share your own experiences in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

July 7, 2016

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