How to properly cut into a sewer pipe and what is needed for this? How to insert into a sewer pipe made of steel, cast iron and plastic: an overview of methods and useful tips. Insert a plastic pipe into a cast iron riser.

Today, almost any plumbing work Although they are a complex matter, they are, however, quite predictable. That is, you can approximately calculate the budget, possible deviations, and project deadlines.

And all because they appeared on the market modern materials, which are very convenient to work with and which allow you to do plumbing not with pain, but with interest. We can say that the fittings and adapters that exist today have turned this matter into a kind of constructor, the main difficulty of which is to create a truly high-quality connection of parts.

Such a common job as cutting into a sewer riser is no exception. Now this is done quickly, reliably and inexpensively. Moreover, it does not matter at all what exactly the main sewer line is made of.

Let's look at what difficulties craftsmen previously had to face when working independently, before the advent of modern technologies.

Riser type	Standard difficulties and their causes
1. Cast iron.	As a rule, the insertion into sewer riser This type was dangerous at least in that when dismantling the required section, the entire line as a whole could collapse. This happened often and mainly because dismantling was most often carried out with a hacksaw and a hammer. Now everyone can afford to buy an angle grinder for such work, which allows you to do without any blows to the metal at all.
2. Steel.	In this case, it was also difficult to do it yourself, without the help of specialists and a large set of tools. Simply because steel, unlike cast iron, cannot be broken with a hammer. But with a hacksaw it was not possible to cut the entire circumference of the pipe. Here autogens and other similar cutters that are in the arsenal usually came to the rescue home handyman it would be unlikely to be found.

In addition, there was one more detail that made the installation itself difficult - most often it was impossible to do without welding to connect the parts. And this is a very serious obstacle for independent work, agree.

Please note that working with plastic material We didn’t look into this table.
Simply because such technologies were not used in our country before.
However, below will be published step by step instructions for working with such pipes.

Now it’s worth considering in detail what types of insertion exist now - you will see for yourself that modern methods much simpler, safer, cheaper and more effective.

Self-installation into the riser

Before we begin, it is worth noting that we will only analyze those methods that are most easy to implement on your own, and the price of which is affordable for everyone.

The only difficulties that may arise when performing the work described below is the need to invite a welder at some stage. However, you must admit that now this is not difficult to do - fortunately, there are many offers on the market. Moreover, such services will not be needed for very long (for a maximum of half an hour).

Well, now let's start reviewing the practical part.

Working with plastic

What makes this material uniquely convenient is its ease of processing and low weight. Such pipes are easily amenable to the action of an ordinary hacksaw, and the connection is made either using a special soldering iron or even mechanically.

Tapping into a riser of this type is usually carried out using the second method.

It's done something like this:

Buy a special tee of the same diameter as the pipes on the riser.

A fragment is cut out on the desired section of the highway, the length of which should be several centimeters shorter than the length of the fitting.
The cut edges are cleaned with fine sandpaper or a grinder.. This is done to ensure that the “joining” lines are as smooth as possible.
The edges of the line are lubricated with ordinary sunflower oil . The same is done with the inner rim of the tee. If all this is not lubricated, then later it will be difficult to fully connect the parts.
Riser pipes are inserted into the tee. But since by default the distance between the cut edges is less than the length of the adapter, a special approach is needed here. The extreme points of the riser are slightly retracted to one side and slightly inserted into the fitting, and then gradually brought together into one even line and recessed deeper and deeper into the tee.

This is the scheme.

Please note that before crashing into sewer pipe(regardless of what it is made of), you need to warn the neighbors above that the toilet or kitchen drain cannot be used during a certain period of time.
Otherwise, you run the risk of at least getting dirty during work, and at maximum, of poorly organizing the connection due to moisture getting on the work surface.

Now about working with metal structures.

Connection with cast iron and steel riser

Insertion into a cast iron sewer pipe is carried out according to the following principle:

Using a grinder, the required fragment of the riser is cut out. If the disk does not reach any point on the circle, then it is very undesirable to complete such dismantling with a hammer due to the brittleness of cast iron. It’s better to try to finish the metal with a blade - it will take more time, but the riser will remain intact. (See also article.)
A tee is lightly placed on the part of the pipe that is less mobile (usually the one that is shorter) and tilted to the side. A more mobile pipe is also directed in the same direction, which is then also attached to the tee.
The riser line is gradually leveled, and the pipes are recessed into the tee deeper.

As you can see, the diagram is very similar to the previous instructions. However, this method may not work if the sewer pipes cannot be moved. After all, in such a situation it will simply be impossible to put a tee on them.

Or a toilet - in all of the above and other similar cases, it is impossible to do without creating additional water intake points. And for this it will be necessary to organize new working outlets from the main sewer pipe. There are several options for connecting to the system - then we suggest, with photos and videos, how to properly cut into a plastic sewer pipe in the three most common and reliable ways: using a tee, an adapter and a saddle.

Insert with tee

If a pipe that exactly matches the diameter of the main sewer pipe cuts into the drainage system, a standard tee can be used for connection.

For work you will need: a hacksaw, a file, a plastic tee with a plug, silicone sealant and a special compensating pipe - a piece of pipe with a variable diameter.

Tees for inserting into sewer pipes

Before you start inserting, you should determine the height of the tee as accurately as possible. The latter should be located at such a level that the pipe connected to it is at a slight slope - such a position will ensure effective drainage of sewage into the general system.

Advice. Use a tee with corner connection pipes towards the drain - such an insertion will reduce the risk of formation sewer blockages in the system.

After preparatory work You can proceed to the direct insertion into the sewer:

Cut a piece of sewer pipe that exactly matches the length of the tee being connected.
Use a file to process inner surface pipeline to remove all burrs.
Process outside pipeline sealant.
Place a compensating pipe on the first truncated sewer pipe - insert it from the bottom up with the wide part.
Mount a plastic tee on the second truncated pipe.
Treat the narrow part of the compensating pipe with sealant and press it tightly into the tee socket.

Sealant treatment

Seal all pipe and tee joints.
Place the plug on the tee.

Tapping using an adapter

Often it is not possible to cut and disassemble a sewer pipe for one reason or another, but it is still necessary to organize new outlets. What to do in this situation? Best option– use of an adapter. This device has the form of a cap with outlets for the connected pipe.

Important! When deciding to use an adapter, keep in mind that it is designed to connect only those pipes whose diameter is half the diameter of the main sewer pipeline.

To insert into the sewer using an adapter, you will need a file, a drill bit with a crown, an adapter sleeve, silicone sealant, clamps, etc. The work is performed according to the following scheme:

Clean and dry thoroughly within the radius of the adapter cutout. work surface pipeline.
Using a core bit, drill a hole in the pipe for the adapter.
Prepare the fitting, treat it with sealant and secure it to the plastic pipe using clamps. There is no need to tighten the fitting all the way so as not to deform the plastic.
Insert the adapter cuff into the fitting branch and connect the adapter to it, having previously lubricated it silicone sealant. It is important that the connection between the cuff and the adapter is as tight as possible, otherwise leaks and malfunction of the sewer pipeline cannot be avoided.

Tapping using an adapter

If the sewer pipeline into which the new outlet is inserted is located horizontally, the adapter must be connected with a slope from the vertical of no more than 45 degrees.

Insert with saddle

The simplest and operational method crash into a plastic sewer pipe - use a saddle. This is a variation compression fitting, the design of which can be presented either in the form of a clamp or in the form of an overlay. In the first case, we are dealing with a crimping piece that tightens the sewer pipe on both sides, and in the second, we are dealing with a small overlay that is welded onto the pipeline. As practice shows, a crimp clamp is more reliable and practical, so it is better to use it for tapping. Such a saddle can either be selected for a specific diameter of the sewer pipe, or be universal - providing the ability to adjust the scope of the clamp depending on the size of the pipeline.

The saddle can be mounted on a pipe in two ways - by welding or tightening. But in both cases, the installation scheme is quite simple to implement:

Determine the insertion location and drill a hole in the pipe that matches the diameter of the outlet of the saddle used.
Alternately place the upper and lower halves of the saddle onto the sewer pipe. Make sure that rubber gasket the upper half sat tightly on the hole in the pipe.

Insert with saddle

Connect the two halves: weld them or tighten them on the sides with special fasteners that come with the device.
Treat all connections with silicone sealant.

Thus, we have three ways to cut into a sewer plastic pipe: a tee, an adapter and a saddle. Whatever option you choose for connecting to the system, do not forget that only competent work will make it possible to install a new outlet without hassle - do not neglect the instructions provided, and then you are guaranteed a high-quality connection to the sewer.

The question of how to cut into a plastic sewer pipe may arise among owners of apartments and houses when it is necessary to install a dishwasher or washing machine. There are several ways to solve this problem, the choice of which is determined by the type of pipes used to organize the sewerage system, the size of the room and the financial capabilities of the homeowner.

Applying markings for inserting into a sewer pipe

The wide range of transition devices on the market for inserting into a plastic sewer pipe makes it possible to choose a way to solve the problem that does not require large expenses. Among such devices are:

Adapters. They are used when it is impossible to make a full insert into the pipe. The device includes a pad fixed with fasteners and a pipe. Using this method, outputs with a diameter of smaller sizes main pipe.
Tees. To install such devices, the pipe must be cut.

How to make an insert into a sewer pipe

How to make an insert into a sewer pipe:

Make a piece of pipe with an outlet of the required size.
Make a blank. The pipe and the part of the sewer system to which it is connected must be of a size that allows it to tightly close the place where it enters the sewer system.
Make a hole in the pipe. Its diameter must exactly match the size of the pipe.
Treat the internal surfaces of the resulting part and the parts of the sewer system to which it will be connected with sealant.
Secure the part by pressing it firmly to the main pipe and tightening it with clamps. They cut into and pull together carefully, without applying extra effort. Work is stopped after the sealant appears from under the adapter. Excess product is removed with a rag.

Insertion into the riser

Tapping into the riser presents some difficulties. If all elements of the system are plastic, form additional input it will be easier.

To connect to the riser you will need the following tools and materials:

A tee that will be used to form an additional entrance.
Compensating pipe. This product is a long bell. The length of the riser that will fit into this device can reach 20 cm.
Sewer coupling. Used to connect the main pipe to the compensating pipe.

Tapping into a sewer system is a dirty job, so the person doing it must change into work clothes. The room is cleared of furniture and other things. The procedure includes:

Coordinating the start time of work with other residents of the house. Neighbors must be asked not to use water and sewer lines. In order not to create inconvenience to other residents, tie-in work must be carried out as quickly as possible.
Dissection of the main pipe and its adjustment to the dimensions of the compensating pipe. The sections are cleaned with a file, trying to remove as many burrs as possible.
Installation of compensator and tee. To facilitate the installation process of these devices, the internal surfaces are lubricated liquid soap ensuring easy gliding. Fuel and lubricants cannot be used for this purpose. They damage the plastic, which causes the connection to leak in the future.
Fixing the riser. Clamps are used to attach the pipe to the wall.

Insertion into a horizontal sewer pipeline

This is the most common insertion method. The work is carried out according to the following scheme:

The sewer system is being partially dismantled.
The section of the main sewer pipe into which the tap will be made is cut in half. After this, a part is cut out, the dimensions of which correspond to the length of the tee.
The fitting pipes are fixed and the pipeline with the installed element is assembled.

Inserting a sewer pipe using a tee

Using a tee, the insertion includes the following steps:

Selecting a tee of the appropriate size.
Closing the sewer. Residents upper floors please do not use the drainage system waste water during work. Prepare a rag and basins in advance.
Measuring the location for the tee.
Removing the segment in place of which the tee will be cut. A pipe cutter is used for this. If the tool blade does not reach some areas of the circle, it is not recommended to use a hammer for dismantling. This leads to damage to the sewer system.
Installing a tee in place of the removed segment. A tee is put on the less moving part of the riser, moving it to the side. The more movable part is moved in the same direction. After fixing the adapter, the riser line is leveled by inserting its parts into the tee socket as deeply as possible. The sewer section is temporarily secured using a bracket.
Connection of the main pipe with a tee. When performing this work, dexterity is required from the performer, since the tight fit of the sewer section to the floor or wall makes it difficult to access the connection point.

Tapping using an adapter

If it is impossible to cut part of the sewer system, use an overlay. When installing the adapter, the installation includes the following steps:

Cleaning the area where the cover will be mounted. This ensures a tight fit of the part.
Forming a hole for draining wastewater. If the adapter is installed on an element with a diameter of less than 110 mm, the hole size should not exceed 50 mm.
Treat parts of the adapter adjacent to the pipe with sealant. The cover is secured with clamps. To avoid damage to the elements of the sewer system, the clamps are tightened carefully. The prepared hole should coincide with the outlet on the overlay. It is better if it has a smaller diameter.
Installation of a rubber cuff, connection of a new plumbing fixture.

Insertion into a vertical riser

In case of insertion into the riser without removing part of the pipe, a collapsible clamp is used. One part of it is blind, the second has a pipe. Part of the system is connected to it, which is connected to the new plumbing fixture. The installation process will include the following steps:

Turning off the water, closing the sewer.
Forming a hole in the area selected for installation.
Securing the clamp with the pipe. For this, a screw connection is used.
Inserting the seal into the pipe. The seal has the form of a corrugation made of rubber.
Inserting the outlet pipe into the corrugation.

Helps minimize costs self-production clamp. To do this, take a pipe whose diameter is equal to the cross-section of the pipeline into which the insertion is made. The section is sawn longitudinally. One half will serve as the back part of the clamp; a hole is made in the second half equal to the diameter of the connected pipe.

An insertion into a sewer pipe may be required by any person who, for example, decided to install another drain pipe in his apartment, either an additional sink, or simply bought a new dishwasher or washing machine.

1

There are several different methods tapping into pipes of the water supply and sewerage systems. The modern market offers a huge selection of all kinds of transitional devices that make this process as simple as possible.

The most commonly used method involves the use of a special tee. Its use requires the removal of a small part of the pipe after sawing it.

The specified length of the pipe product must be the same in length as the tee that is supposed to be installed on the cut piece of the pipeline. This method usually used for metal pipes. In this case, the mounted tee essentially performs the role of a conventional coupling, after installation of which it will be necessary to weld the connection point.

However, there is an easier way when welding is not necessary. In this case it is necessary:

cut the pipe;
cut the thread using a tap;
attach a fitting with the required number of bends to the system.

Currently, it is the described technology that is considered the most preferable; no one wants to create “chaos” in their home, which will certainly arise if a welding machine is used.

If desired, this technique can also be used for inserting into plastic pipes. But then, instead of one pipe, you need to take two small pipe structures and place a piece of pipe equipped with a pipe between them. Such a pipe makes it possible to connect additional equipment to the old one. sewer system.

2

If you don't like the tapping method, which involves cutting the pipe and removing some of it, you can try another technology. For example, prepare in advance a piece of tube with a pipe having a specific size and cross-section. After this, make a hole in the pipe where you plan to embed the additional structure. The hole in its cross-section, as you yourself understand, should be identical to the hole on the previously prepared pipe.

Then you need to lubricate the surface of the flange that you plan to connect with sealant, as well as the surface around the hole, and attach the pipe and flange to each other. To increase the reliability of the resulting connection, it is advisable to use clamps. They are tightened until the sealing compound appears on the joint surface. It should be removed immediately. In situations where there is a small pressure of water (wastewater) in the system, it is permissible to use ordinary electrical tape instead of more expensive clamps.

Also, insertion into a pipe can be carried out using a special adapter with a cross-section of 5 centimeters, which is designed for installation on pipe products with a diameter of 10–11 centimeters. The procedure is carried out as follows:

access to the sewer pipe is blocked;
calculate the distance of the pipe from the installed insert;
prepare a crown of the required diameter, which is attached to an electric drill and a hole is made in the pipe.

Next, if an adapter equipped with bolts is used, they must be tightened. If bolts are not provided, the insert is placed on a well-degreased surface and the nut is carefully tightened. IN in this case It is also recommended to additionally treat the junction of the structure with the adapter with a sealing compound, which will give 100% guarantee absence of pipeline leaks during its operation.

Recently, in addition, they have often begun to use inserts with a plastic fitting. They are designed for installation on pipes with a cross-section from 32 to 40 mm. Such insert options have a diameter from 19 to 22 mm. The essence of their installation is similar to the processes outlined above.

3

As you know, previously almost all domestic sewage pipes were made exclusively of cast iron. There were many reasons for this, we do not plan to discuss them here; a lot has been said about the advantages.

Nowadays, more and more often, old cast iron systems are being replaced with more modern plastic ones. Moreover, in many apartments the sewage system is made of cast iron pipes. And it is in them that new branches often have to be cut in order to connect one or another household unit that requires water supply and drainage.

All previously described insertion methods are suitable for cast iron structures. You can use a ready-made tee or flange, or make the latter yourself according to the following scheme:

a piece of pipe is taken with a cross-section (internal) that is similar to the cross-section (now external) of that tubular product, to which it is planned to connect;
cut the pipe longitudinally, make a hole in it of the appropriate cross-section and connect the pipe (weld this element).

Let us immediately note here that welding work should be carried out extremely responsibly so that later insertion into cast iron pipe water supply or sewerage did not cause serious problems. In some cases, as we have already said, instead of welding, sealant and special clamps are used. But only when the flow pressure is engineering system minimal.

Sometimes it becomes necessary to connect an additional plumbing fixture to an already operating sewer system. For example, when buying a washing machine or dishwasher To connect it, you will need to make an insertion into the sewer pipe.

For a professional plumber, such work is not difficult. But for a person who does not have experience, it is necessary to study the rules and methods of connection so as not to disrupt the operation of the system.

Reasons for the tie-in

There can be many reasons for crashing into a sewer. Here are just some of them:

Connecting a new plumbing fixture.
Transfer of devices to a new location, in case of redevelopment, etc.
Connecting the house to the central sewer system.

In the first option, there is a connection to the in-house system, so there should be no complications as such. In the second case, if there is a need to crash into the central riser apartment building, there is a risk of being flooded with drains from the upper floors. Therefore, it is better to agree in advance with neighbors about the time of work and limiting the use of sewerage.

When connecting a house to a centralized sewer system, it is necessary to negotiate with utility services so that certain time the water supply was cut off. In this case, housing and communal services have the right to issue you an invoice for certain work.

Video: How to install a tee into a sewer riser

Methods of insertion into the system

There are several ways to crash into, the choice depends on the material and, the place and method of their location. In order to cut a pipe of a smaller diameter into a larger one, a special adapter is used, and if the diameters are equal, a tee or cross is installed.

Installing the adapter

This method is suitable for both plastic and cast iron pipes. The work is performed in the following sequence:

A hole ∅ 50 mm is made in the pipe. This can be done with a drill and a special bit, but for cast iron you may have to use a cutting torch.
The edges of the hole are cleaned of burrs using a file or sandpaper.
The adapter installation location is lubricated with sealant.
The adapter is installed and secured with clamps and bolts.

Tapping with a tee

When tapping into a cast iron pipe, you need to cut a part of it exactly to the size of the tee. After this, the connection is welded; it is better to trust such work to an experienced welder. It is much easier to cut a tee into a plastic pipe and you can do it yourself.

To do this, part of the pipeline is replaced with two short sections, between which a tee or pipe with a branch pipe is installed required diameter. The only difficulty may arise when connecting the sockets.

Insertion into a plastic pipe

Work process:

We take a piece of pipe with a pipe of the required diameter.
We prepare the workpiece - we cut out the pipe and part of the pipe so that it reliably covers the insertion point (you can simply cut it lengthwise).
In the pipe into which we are cutting, we drill a hole whose diameter coincides with the pipe.
Apply sealant to the inner surface of the workpiece and the pipe.
We apply the workpiece and tighten it with clamps until the sealant appears.

This method can be used for both plastic pipes and any others.

Insertion into a vertical riser

When tapping, the first thing you need to do is agree with your neighbors so that they do not drain the water for some time. All subsequent work must be completed as quickly as possible.

For the riser the best option will use a plastic oblique tee. This will make it easier to clear the blockage in the future. Such a tee is available for plastic and for, the direction of the pipe should be against the flow of wastewater.

Stages of work:

Marking - the length of the cut section must be equal to the height of the compensator;
We cut out a section of pipe - plastic can be sawed with a hacksaw, cast iron with a grinder.
Cleaning the cut from burrs and rust.
The joints are lubricated with soapy water or cream.
A compensator is put on the top, a coupling on the bottom (if necessary), then a tee or cross;
The compensator settles into the tee;
Joints of plastic pipes are coated with sealant, cast iron pipes are sealed with caulk or cement (without sand) mortar.