Anyone who is planning to independently build a bathhouse on their own site will have to take into account a huge number of specific nuances of this building. All of them, to a large extent, are associated with the peculiarities of operation - frequent temperature changes with a very large amplitude, and high levels of humidity. Thus, all bathhouse designs buildings must have operational qualities, which make them able to withstand such extreme influences.
DIY bathhouse ceiling
The bath ceiling is no exception. Moreover, the influence of humidity on it is especially critical, since hot air and steam always tend to the top, and usually the highest temperatures and humidity levels are observed in the ceiling area in the steam room or washing room. For those new to construction who decided to make a bathhouse ceiling with their own hands, a step-by-step guide is simply necessary. It is these issues that this publication is devoted to.
There are several basic ceiling designs for a bath - all of them will be discussed below. But no matter which one is chosen as the base one, they all must meet certain requirements:
- Any ceiling is a fairly massive structure, especially if the attic of the bathhouse is planned to be used as a utility room, utility room, or even as an additional utility room. areas - attics. Thus, the ceiling design must be highly reliable in terms of resistance to mechanical loads. Even if the attic will not be used for moving people or placing certain objects, the ceiling must still withstand both its own weight and the load of the insulating layer - this is a key rule for the safe operation of any room in general.
One of the key requirements is reliable thermal insulation
- Bath procedures will only bring health benefits if an appropriate microclimate is created in the premises. The ceiling is that structural element of any building through which it is always possible to big loss heat. In order not to have to spend an incredible amount of fuel to maintain the desired temperature, while mostly “heating the street,” it is necessary to provide the ceiling with the most reliable thermal insulation.
- The materials used for the ceiling structure should not be afraid of dampness and elevated temperatures. What to do? After all, for this in the overwhelming majority of cases it is used natural wood? There are solutions to this problem - the use of certain species of wood and special processing parts with compositions that dramatically increase the resistance of the material to moisture and biological decomposition processes.
By the way, many of the modern impregnations provide another useful result. They contain special flame retardant additives, which significantly increase the resistance of wood to fire - this is extremely important for a bathhouse.
- One of the main “enemies” of wood is high humidity, and in a bathhouse you can’t live without it. In order to protect the wooden load-bearing elements of the structure from moisture penetration to the maximum, you will need reliable hydro- and vapor barrier. At the same time, condensation should not be allowed to accumulate in the thickness of the wood or insulation material. This means that it is necessary to provide for the possibility of free release of water vapor upward into the atmosphere.
The water vapor barrier is shown at the top, and the diffuse membrane at the bottom.
Prices for water vapor barrier
water vapor barrier
This is ensured by the use of special roll coatings and membranes, and each layer must be located strictly in a certain place, otherwise the desired effect will not be achieved.
- And finally, it will be a pleasure to spend time in the bathhouse if the ceiling is also beautiful. Perhaps some home craftsmen classify this requirement as an excess, but still the decorative qualities of the walls and ceiling covering baths are a kind of “calling card” of the owners, and finishing issues should not be discounted either.
Now let's move on to considering the main structures of the bath ceiling - hemmed, floor and panel type.
false ceiling
This design is used most often. It is quite simple, understandable, meets all requirements, allows you to use the attic as usable area.
The basis for the installation of such a ceiling system are beams attic floor. All other details, both above and below, are based precisely on them. The convenience of the design is that there are no restrictions on the length and width of the room. It is assumed that the floor beams are installed according to the developed project, with the required beam cross-section (or log diameter) and with the required pitch. Thus, there is full possibility of turning the ceiling into a full-fledged interfloor ceiling, opening up opportunities for the beneficial use of the attic.
A suspended ceiling can be schematically represented as follows:
1 – main walls of the bathhouse. It is clear that natural wood is most often used, and in this diagram monolithic wall shown for simplicity only.
2 – attic floor beams. Before installing the ceiling, they must be firmly fixed to the walls with insulation of the joints adjacent to them.
3 – ceiling lining boards. In this option, shown in the diagram, they simultaneously play the role of the finishing surface of the ceiling, although this is not always the case.
4 – layer of water vapor barrier. It is optimal if a special water vapor proof membrane. It’s even better if it has a foil layer facing downwards - this is an additional barrier to moisture and a reflective surface that prevents heat loss.
5 – a layer of thermal insulation materials laid between the floor beams.
6 – vapor permeable a membrane that does not allow water to penetrate into the insulation from above, but does not interfere with natural vapor exchange - that is, it allows the ceiling structure to “breathe”, getting rid of accumulated moisture.
7 – attic floor boards.
Perhaps the main disadvantage of this false ceiling design is the significant consumption of lumber and the rather high complexity of installation. However, we should not forget that “two birds with one stone” are killed at the same time - at the exit there is an insulated bath ceiling and an almost finished attic (attic) floor.
Are a bathhouse and an attic compatible?
With proper planning, why not. This is extremely convenient - after bath procedures, without going outside, go up to a full-fledged rest room.
The reader can get acquainted with the project in a special article on the portal.
Carrying out installation work
The work is carried out in the following order:
- If the floor beams have not yet been treated with special protective impregnations before their installation, now is the time to eliminate this shortcoming. Particular attention is paid to the end facets of the beams - here you can not spare three layers of primer.
- In the case where the ceiling is installed in the room where the sauna stove-stove will be located, you should immediately provide a place for the passage of the chimney. To do this, two jumpers are installed between the beams, which will limit the rectangle or square required for installing the pass-through metal box.
Values A and B must correspond to the dimensions atnewfound or a self-made box - this will largely depend on the diameter of the chimney pipe.
This “outlined” square temporarily falls out of the scope of work - it will not be covered with boards either top or bottom, no membranes will be laid in it and no insulation will be laid in it.
- The next step is to attach hydraulics from below to the floor beams throughout the entire area of the room. vapor barrier membrane. It should extend approximately 200 mm onto the walls on each side - this will be required to create a unified water vapor barrier system for the room.
The optimal choice is a special roll material designed specifically for these purposes. If this is not possible, it is permissible to use dense polyethylene with a thickness of at least 0.2 mm, but the quality of the insulation will not be the same. The strips are attached to the floor beams in such a way that an overlap of at least 200 mm is created, which must be glued with waterproof tape.
If foil material is purchased, then it is placed with the shiny side down, and the overlaps are glued with a special aluminized with tape.
- Only now can you move on to lining the ceiling with boards. At least two options are possible here.
The first is as shown in the diagram above. Binding boards, provided that it is quality material(best of all - tongue and groove) will immediately serve as a decorative covering. They are attached to the floor beams, which in this case are a kind of “lags”. For fastening, use either nails or self-tapping screws of the required length. Self-tapping screws look preferable, since they hold suspended boards more reliably, and installation does not require impact forces, which are not entirely “useful” for floor beams.
However, this method is used infrequently - it turns out to be quite expensive, since a good tongue-and-groove board 20 ÷ 25 mm thick is not cheap. In addition, it is advisable to create a small air gap between the waterproofing and the front cladding. This means that for the initial filing you can use third-rate material, which will simply create the basis for the insulating layer laid on top. And from below we get a slightly different design:
1 – walls.
2 – floor beams.
3 – layer of water vapor barrier, the same as in the previous case.
4 – rough filing boards (rolling). Material of not the highest decorative quality is quite appropriate here.
5 – layer of foil roll insulation. This is another waterproofing barrier, plus it creates a “thermos” effect in the room, which is very important, in particular, for a steam room.
6 – a layer of foil insulation is pressed against the rolling boards with counter-battens, which are placed perpendicularly, with the necessary spacing (400 ÷ 600 mm) for installing the lining.
7 – natural lining, which becomes the front covering of the bathhouse. It is usually used on the ceiling and walls.
Prices for wooden lining
wooden lining
When the covering of the ceiling surface is finished, insert the passage box for the chimney pipe and attach it to the ceiling covering.
After the lower part of the ceiling is sheathed, you can move on to further work into the attic.
- The next step is laying the insulating layer. And here it is important to make one very important remark.
Often in publications on bath ceilings you can find recommendations to first hem the bottom boards, and then lay a water vapor barrier film on top, along the flooring and along the beams. Let's look at the diagram - it would seem that everything is exactly the same as above. But the error is shown here - it is highlighted with a red arrow.
If you lay vapor barriers in this way, it turns out that the floor beams have no protection from moisture rising from above. Moreover, the possibility of moisture evaporating upward into the atmosphere is completely excluded, that is, the beams will not dry out even when the bathhouse is not in use. Unfortunately, this error “walks” across the Internet, is replicated, and as a result, the master who applied such a scheme dooms the ceiling structure to fragility.
The same error - in the photo
The ceiling facing boards will in any case come into contact with steam, but they are easy to replace as they wear out. But the beams play a load-bearing role, and if the process of rotting or fungus forms in them, then the strength of the structure will be in big question, and renovation work"They'll cost a pretty penny."
The beams must remain open at the top - then when proper organization insulation, excess moisture will simply evaporate into the atmosphere.
Mineral wool is very often used as bathhouse ceiling insulation - it is safe from a fire point of view, harmless to humans (if used stone wool. Glass wool or slag wool is undesirable in baths). The insulation mats are spread between the floor beams so that they fit as tightly as possible, leaving no gaps.
Expanded polystyrene, widely used in construction practice, should not be used to insulate a bath ceiling. Firstly, the material is not designed for high temperatures, and with strong heating it can become deformed and “float”. Secondly, there are many questions regarding foam plastic and environmental friendliness - over time, its decomposition with the release of toxic substances is inevitable. And thirdly, expanded polystyrene cannot be classified as non-combustible materials, but for a bathhouse this is extremely important.
Often, to insulate the ceiling, expanded clay backfill is used between the floor beams, with a thickness of about 100 ÷ 150 mm. The method is not bad, but only if high-quality expanded clay is used, since you can find very critical reviews from people who We used inexpensive material and were not happy with the results obtained.
The old “old-fashioned” methods of insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse do not lose popularity either. So, usually during the construction of a log house a lot of shavings and sawdust remain. And this is a very good insulation material. Under normal conditions, they are poured dry into the space between the beams, but for a bathhouse it is better to make a dense wet mortar using cement or clay. You can look at this as an example:
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | The ceiling below is completely lined with clapboard. Between it and the ceiling tanks there is an appropriate water vapor barrier layer. |
 | A pass-through box has been installed, and in this case The chimney has already been installed. |
 | The same box is a view from the attic, filled with expanded clay, which acts as a thermal insulation “cushion.” |
 | It is assumed that the wet solution will be backfilled, so the cells between the floor beams must be additionally closed with pieces of film water vapor barrier. You can additionally lay dry cardboard underneath them. The beams themselves remain open at the top. |
 | Surely, there are gaps in the coating - for example, in places where cables or other communications pass. In addition, there may be gaps in the joints of the beams. |
 | First of all, you can use polyurethane foam seal all cracks and gaps, blocking possible cold bridges. |
 | Now you can prepare the insulating composition. To do this, about one ladle (1.5 dm³) of dry cement is added to two buckets of dry sawdust. |
 | Topped up required quantity water. You need to be very careful with this - the solution should not turn out liquid. The required consistency is semi-dry, so that when squeezed in a fist, a lump forms, but without releasing water. |
 | The mixture is mixed - this will most conveniently be done using a construction mixer. For large volumes, you can also use a concrete mixer, then feed ready mixture up. |
 | The finished composition is poured between the floor beams. |
 | You can distribute it using a trowel - in an even layer of equal thickness. There is no need to compact the solution. |
 | Usually the layer is brought to the top edge of the beams - it turns out approximately 100 ÷ 150 mm, which will be enough for high-quality insulation baths. Sometimes the work is carried out in layers, gradually bringing the thickness of the insulation to the desired level, allowing the laid layers to set and dry. |
Chopped straw is sometimes used instead of sawdust, although in this case it is better to use a clay solution.
What kind of insulation neither used, after laying it, it is recommended to secure it to the floor beams steam-permeable diffuse membrane. The properties of this material are such that moisture from above cannot enter the insulation, and water vapor escapes freely. Such natural ventilation prevents the formation of condensation and a decrease in insulation properties.
The action of a diffuse membrane - water is retained and steam passes through
Once the membrane has been laid and stapled to the beams, you can proceed to laying the attic floor boards, if planned. Usually, with hemmed ceiling types, attic floors are always made full, the room can be used, and the insulation will receive protection from mechanical damage.
Video: an interesting technique for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse
Floor-type bath ceiling
This type of ceiling is much easier to install and requires much less lumber. However, it is not always possible to apply it.
Flat ceiling - on a miniature model of a bathhouse
A flat ceiling will be appropriate only for small rooms - 2, maximum 2.5 meters. In this case, the flooring boards should have a thickness of about 50 mm. As a rule, using the attic as a usable area in such cases is not considered - the floor will not have the necessary strength. But the insulation process is also significantly simplified - the thermal insulation material itself does not require additional protection from above.
An approximate diagram of a flat ceiling is shown in the figure:
1 – walls. The distance between the main walls is no more than 2500 mm (light partitions are not taken into account).
2 – flooring boards, which are attached with nails or screws directly to wall beam. Board thickness - no less 50 mm, the width of its approach to the wall is the same - 50 mm. A good quality planed board is suitable for these purposes, which can be laid tightly one to the other, without gaps.
3 – layer steam and waterproofing– no different from the one mentioned above.
4 – insulation material. Almost anyone can use it. However, if bulk is used, then it will also be necessary to make partitions from bars (item 5, shown in dotted lines, as an optional element) so that the backfill still has the required uniform thickness.
By the way, in this case, homemade mats, sewn from waterproof film and filled with available insulation material, are often used as thermal insulation. For example, it could be padding polyester waste, dry pine needles, etc.
Since there is no expected movement in the attic, it is not necessary to lay a floor on top of the insulation layer.
Under number 6 showing layer vapor permeable diffuse membrane. In this case, this is also not mandatory. If the roof structure is made according to all the rules, then such a membrane is already used under the roofing material, and free vapor exchange will be ensured. Reliable roof covering should completely exclude direct ingress of water, and since the attic is not used for economic or domestic purposes, an accidental spill of water is extremely unlikely. So you can save a lot of money on this.
Ceiling boards often immediately play the role of a finishing surface. If there is a need, for example, when finishing a steam room, to add thermal insulation, then you can do the same as in the case of a false ceiling - fill counter slats perpendicularly, which will press the foil material to the surface, and then lay natural lining.
Video: example of installing a flat ceiling
Panel ceiling
The design of such a ceiling to some extent combines the features of a floor and hemmed design. The ceiling surface is assembled on the ground, the process of insulation and waterproofing can also take place here, and then the finished panels are raised to a height and mounted on the upper crown of the walls.
What do these panels usually look like? These are knocked together panels, the basis of which consists of two beams located parallel at a distance of 500 mm from one another. The cross-section of the beam depends on the length of the span, but it is usually taken equal to 50 × 100 mm - this allows you to achieve high strength of the ceiling structure - it will serve as a floor for an attic or attic. And, at the same time, 100 mm is a sufficient thickness for complete insulation.
The beams are laid out in parallel on a flat, stable base at a distance of 500 mm on the outer sides, and the edges are aligned. Then they are stuffed with pieces of boards about 25 ÷ 30 mm thick and 600 mm long. The width of the board does not matter - as a rule, leftover lumber is used, which, by the way, allows you to seriously save on such a ceiling. Each board is attached to the beam with two nails to ensure the immobility of the structure. The boards are placed in such a way that they protrude equally on the sides of the shield by 50 mm.
After the panel is knocked together, it is turned over with the beams facing up. Using staplers, a water vapor barrier film is attached to its inner surface (shown by an arrow). Please note that the top of the beams remains open.
If there are enough working hands, or there are lifting devices that will help raise the panel to a height, then you can immediately insulate the panel right there on the ground (if, of course, we are talking about rolls or mats of thermal insulation material). For example, laying mineral wool will not weigh down the panels too much - but there will be no need to carry out this work in the attic.
The insulation mats are laid tightly in the gap between the beams, covered with a membrane. In order for the resulting structure to gain the additional rigidity necessary to raise it to a height, 2 ÷ 3 oblique temporary jumpers made of boards are installed.
1 – mats (blocks) of insulation material – mineral wool.
2 – temporary “oblique” jumpers for lifting panels onto the walls.
Prices for mineral wool
mineral wool
The panels rise to the installation site. This can be the upper plane of the crown, or selected specifically for panel construction horizontal stepped groove on it. Another option is to attach a beam with a thickness of at least 50 mm to the perimeter walls, which will become a “shelf” for installing finished panels.
In any case, the place where the panels are laid needs an insulating seal. Typically, jute felt tape is used for these purposes - it will perfectly cover the gaps between the wall and the panels.
The panels are laid close to one another, and temporary jumpers are removed. After joining between the panels, based on their design, a gap of 100 mm wide remains. It was left there for a reason: its purpose is to insulate joints.
1 – wall.
2 – felt tape, sealing the joints of the wall and panels.
3 – finished panels with temporary jumpers already removed.
4 – cut strip of thermal insulation material.
5 – boards fixing the panels to each other.
In each of these openings at the junction, the same water vapor barrier film is first laid along the bottom and walls. A wide strip is then cut from the mineral wool slabs and placed into the opening as tightly as possible (shown by the wide green arrows). Thus, the cold bridge at the junction will be securely closed.
All that remains is to fix the panels together. First, a diffuse membrane is spread over them, which is attached to the bars with brackets. Then a solid board with a thickness of at least 30 mm is laid - preferably along the entire length of the room, that is, in total it should hold everything together at once installed panels. It is nailed (screwed) to each bar. The same board is immediately placed on the opposite side of the panel ceiling. Then you can sheathe the resulting surface with a short board, 600 mm long - this will form the attic floor. At the same time, do not forget that the long boards connecting the panels should go not only along opposite walls, but also between them, with a pitch of no more than 1000 mm.
From below, the ceiling can be sheathed with clapboard, using the same technology mentioned above.
The advantages of this ceiling installation method:
- The main assembly and even insulation is carried out in comfortable and safe conditions- on the ground.
- The construction turns out to be durable - this is a full-fledged insulated ceiling for the attic, which can be usefully used.
- This ceiling can be installed in rooms of almost any reasonable size.
The disadvantages include:
- A very large-scale scope of work.
- The need for lifting devices or equipment, or the effort of several people.
- The installation of such a ceiling must be carried out before installing the rafter system - and this is not always convenient from the point of view of organizing construction.
So, the main types of wooden ceilings for baths were reviewed, and technological recommendations for their installation were given. You should carefully study all the advantages and disadvantages of each system in order to assess the possibilities of its installation in relation to the specific conditions of the existing bathhouse, and weigh your capabilities, both from the point of view of the necessary construction skills and from the standpoint of material costs. You cannot make mistakes in such matters - a poor-quality ceiling will certainly have a negative impact on the comfort of bath procedures, and its alteration is an extremely difficult and costly undertaking.
The problem of how to make a ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands worries many craftsmen who have decided to equip their suburban area your own steam room in order to take healthy water procedures at any time.
The ceiling surface in the bathhouse is the most important part of the design of this room, which is operated under extreme loads. High temperature and humidity push the range special requirements to the ceilings in steam rooms. Without taking them into account, there is little point in starting work. If you want your bathhouse to serve you for many years, you should wisely decide on the design of the ceiling surface and choose the right building materials for its installation.
Ceilings in the bathhouse
The ceiling in the steam room must:
- have high strength that will not decrease under the influence of moisture and high temperature;
- keep the room warm;
- be durable and visually attractive;
- do not emit fumes that can destroy all the pleasure of taking water procedures;
- eliminate the possibility of the insulation used getting wet.
Before we start construction work you need to draw up a project according to which the ceiling will be made. First of all, you should decide on its height. It is calculated taking into account the height of a person who will regularly take a steam bath. Also, when determining the height, you need to pay attention to the fact that you can calmly lie on the top shelf of the room without touching the ceiling with your body. The height of the steam room recommended by experts is 2.5 m. You can make the ceiling lower, but then professionals do not guarantee the comfort of taking water procedures.
Having decided on the height of the ceiling, we can move on and choose the optimal material for the manufacture of the structure we are interested in. No particular difficulties are foreseen at this stage. If you are building a classic Russian bathhouse, all its elements should be made of natural wood. There is simply no better material. It should be understood that the tree needs additional protection from humidity. It will have to be treated with special impregnations, and then also equipped effective system vapor barriers.
Natural wood ceilings
The attic flooring (if one is provided in your bathhouse) and ceiling beams are best made from coniferous species wood. They are characterized by a high level of moisture resistance. But it is advisable to finish the ceiling using products made from linden or aspen. Such deciduous wood has important feature– low content of natural resins. Due to this, its use makes it possible to reduce the thermal conductivity of the ceiling and at the same time increase its thermal resistance and sound insulation.
Wooden materials for arranging the ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands must be chosen very responsibly. Never buy poorly dried wood.
It is also unacceptable to use products with any defects, even the most insignificant ones in your opinion. And don't forget to treat the boards good antiseptic and fire retardant. These compounds will protect the wood from rotting and increase its resistance to fire. The next step is the selection of vapor barrier material. Its installation on a wooden ceiling is a mandatory process. Most economical option vapor protection of the surface under construction consists of covering it with thick cardboard sheets treated with drying oil. But experts do not recommend using this technique. Cardboard is prone to rotting. His additional processing It only slows down this process, but does not completely eliminate the possibility of mold.
If you want to save money, use aluminum foil or polyethylene film as a protector. Such materials are affordable. And their efficiency is several times higher than cardboard sheets. The most reasonable option for installing a vapor barrier is considered to be the use of modern materials - Penoplex, Izospan and others. They guarantee excellent steam protection. The only point is that the installation of these materials must be carried out strictly according to the instructions attached to them.
Installation of a bath ceiling without its thermal insulation is unacceptable! Our ancestors insulated steam rooms exclusively with natural materials - sand, earth, clay, sawdust, as well as a mixture of them. You can use a similar technique. Nowadays, thermal protection of ceilings using the folk method is most often carried out using a mixture of straw and clay. Well, the fans are more modern insulation materials The following materials are usually used:
- foam;
- mineral wool;
- penoizol;
- expanded clay
Mineral wool as insulation
Polyfoam is waterproof, has excellent heat-protective and sound-proofing properties, and is inexpensive. Installation of lightweight foam plastic does not cause problems for home craftsmen who decide to build a ceiling from boards. This material is sold in sheets of different thicknesses. To insulate the bath ceiling surface, it is advisable to use 5–10 cm polystyrene foam. The sheets are fixed to the base using glue, thick cement mortar or dowels. Polystyrene foam belongs to the group of flammable materials. When burned, it releases compounds harmful to humans, which often cause paralysis. respiratory system. This should be taken into account when choosing polystyrene foam as insulation. If you are not one hundred percent sure of the fire safety of your bathhouse, it is better to choose a different material.
Mineral wool does not burn, is cheap, and does not harbor insects, rodents, or microbes. Anyone can install it. But when wet, mineral wool instantly loses its insulating properties. The latter, by the way, are lost on their own during the operation of the bathhouse. Over time, the wool begins to settle, its density increases because of this, as a result, the insulating capabilities of this material are reduced to almost zero. Currently used for thermal insulation quite rarely. It was replaced by expanded clay. This one is environmentally friendly pure material of natural origin does not burn, characterized by high degree heat and sound protection and an affordable price. To insulate bath ceilings, expanded clay granules should be used. Their optimal sizes are 15–40 mm. In order for expanded clay to perform its functions efficiently, it must be poured at least 20 cm thick.
The bathhouse ceiling can also be insulated with liquid carbamide foam (penoizol). It's very easy to work with. You only need to evenly distribute the penoizol over the surface to be treated, after which it will fill all the gaps in the ceiling, providing excellent thermal insulation for the steam room. Note that for different ways When laying the ceiling surface for a bathhouse with your own hands, you need to select a certain insulation material. That is, in this case, not everything depends on your desires and preferences. We will talk about options for arranging ceilings further.
You can build various ceiling surfaces yourself. Installation of structures of three types is allowed - floor, panel and hemmed. The easiest way to install a flat ceiling. It is built in cases where there is no attic in the bathhouse. For large steam rooms, a flat ceiling is not suitable. In such situations, it is impossible to guarantee its strength and reliability in operation.
Nastalnaya ceiling structure
Installation of the flooring surface is carried out as follows:
- Mount from the inside of the room wooden boards. It is advisable to use products with a width of about 4–5 cm. The boards rest with their edges on the walls of the bathhouse (if we are talking about wooden log house, their fastening is carried out on the last crown of the building). You need to create a solid board from wooden products with a minimum number of cracks (try to mount the boards as closely as possible to each other).
- Cover the made base with the selected vapor barrier (foil, film, modern materials) and fix it with a construction stapler using staples.
- Place a heat insulator on the vapor barrier layer. It is recommended to insulate a floor-type ceiling with expanded clay or mineral wool.
The work is completed. As you can see, the process of arranging a flooring surface is truly simple. But the quality of such a ceiling, frankly speaking, leaves much to be desired. The problem is that its thermal insulation layer is almost completely defenseless against external moisture. In addition, if you need to replace individual elements of a solid board panel, you will have to destroy the vapor and heat barriers, replace the boards, and then reinstall the vapor barrier material and insulation.
If the design of the bathhouse includes an attic space, experts advise making a hemming surface. It can be installed without serious difficulties and is characterized by a high level of operational reliability, but the financial costs for the materials necessary for its installation are objectively high. And such a structure takes much longer to build than a decked one. The scheme of work will be as follows. First, install wooden blocks on the walls (they will serve as load-bearing parts) with a diameter of 5x15 cm. There is a small nuance here. You need to build a separate frame around the chimney. This is not difficult to do.
false ceiling
Prepare additional bars - make special grooves in them for the main ones load-bearing elements, and then mount them across the longitudinal beams. After constructing the frame, proceed to covering the surface from the inside. The optimal products for cladding are tongue and groove and eurolining. It is advisable to fasten these materials in grooves and along the edges, and not in the center of the ceiling. Then attach a vapor barrier film to the sheathing. It is mounted with a mandatory overlap (14–16 cm) on the walls. In cases where several separate sheets are used, the edge of each subsequent product should overlap the previous row by 20 cm. In this case, it is necessary to process the joints between the sheets of vapor barrier. This procedure is performed using a special aluminum self-adhesive film.
Foam plastic should be used as insulation for a false ceiling. Polystyrene foam does not fit around the smoke duct. This area should be insulated with expanded clay. The latter, by the way, can also be used for thermal insulation of the entire ceiling. If desired, it is also possible to use mineral wool. The main thing is that it is not crumpled and cut exactly to the size of the ceiling surface. A waterproof polyethylene film or aluminum foil is additionally laid on top of the insulation. After this, you can cover the made pie with boardwalk. Wooden products attached to the beams with nails with special wide heads.
It is unrealistic to build a ceiling from panels yourself. In this case, you cannot do without 2–3 assistants. This is due to the fact that such a ceiling structure is assembled from pre-prepared wooden panels. They are heavy, which significantly complicates installation activities. Panel ceilings are arranged as follows:
- Lay (strictly parallel) two wooden beams at a distance of 0.5 m from each other. Their edges should rest against a strong wooden strip.
- Take 60-centimeter-long boards and nail them across parallel beams.
- Turn the resulting “box” over, line the inside with film or other vapor barrier, and secure the protective layer with staples.
- Make the rest of the panel blanks in the same way (their number depends on the area of the ceiling being installed).
DIY panel ceiling
After this, insulation can be laid into the manufactured structures. But then it will be very difficult to lift the “boxes” and secure them to the ceiling. Therefore, it is better to stop what has been done and begin installing the panels on brickwork or on the upper rims of a wooden bathhouse. To accomplish this task, you need to lay jute along the edges of the walls (it is also used to seal the gaps between the panels). After installing all the “boxes” on the ceiling, insulate them (it is better not to use mineral wool, opt for foam plastic or expanded clay).
Don’t forget to lay a waterproofing layer on the insulation (ordinary polyethylene film will do) and secure it well. The top of the mounted structure is covered with boardwalk. He performs important function– securely fastens the panels together. The inside of the described ceiling surface is usually finished with clapboard. Choose your own method of arranging the ceiling from the proposed options and enjoy comfortable water treatments in your own bathhouse!
A bathhouse is a room with a certain and quite serious functional load. Therefore, all elements in it play an important role. The importance of the correct construction of the ceiling, which performs not only decorative and delimiting functions, cannot be underestimated. Let's dwell on the topic of the bath ceiling in more detail.
Before you begin directly to work on the construction of the ceiling in the bathhouse, you need to draw up a project. This will help reduce the risk of errors and ensure that the finished design will meet the requirements for it.
The ceiling should:
The first thing you need to decide when drawing up a project is how high the ceiling should be. When calculating ceiling height, they usually rely on the following data:
- the height of the tallest person in your family;
- a person sitting on the topmost shelf should not touch the ceiling;
- to what height the hand of the person who will soar will rise with a broom.
For wooden baths, 0.15 m is also added to the resulting ceiling height to take into account the shrinkage of the structure. In most cases, a steam room height of 2.5 m is suitable for a bath.
Materials
The traditional material for arranging a bathhouse is wood. The ceiling is no exception. Ceiling beams, attic flooring (if there is one), and ceiling lining are made of wood. Only in the first two cases are conifers used, which have excellent moisture resistance. But it is better to make the ceiling cladding from hardwoods such as aspen or linden.
This is due to the fact that low content resins increase sound insulation and heat resistance and reduce the thermal conductivity of the material. In addition, the resins in the cladding will melt and drain at first, which will cause inconvenience to bathhouse attendants.
Anyway everything wooden elements must not have any defects, be well dried and impregnated with a special antiseptic composition.
Thick polyethylene film and aluminum foil can be used as a vapor barrier. Sometimes, to protect the insulation from the action of steam from the bath, cardboard is used, which is pre-treated with drying oil, but this is not the best solution, since this material is very quickly exposed to mold.
The modern construction market offers, for example, isospan or penoplex as a vapor barrier, when installing which you must follow the instructions.
It is impossible to imagine a bath ceiling without a layer of insulation. There are a lot of options here. The insulation can be of natural or artificial origin.
Since ancient times, bathhouse ceilings have been insulated clay, earth, sawdust, sand or a combination of several of these materials. This technology is still used to this day in some bathhouses, because many people care about the environmental friendliness of the building, especially the steam room. Most often, clay mixed with straw is used.
But each of the natural insulation materials has its own significant disadvantages:
- sawdust in the insulation layer often causes a fire in the bathhouse or intensifies the fire;
- sand sooner or later begins to fall on the heads of the bathhouse attendants;
- Microorganisms multiply in the ground after a short period of time, which can harm visitors to the bathhouse;
- Clay insulation is a rather labor-intensive process.
Baths are used as artificial ceiling insulation mineral wool, penoizol and polystyrene foam.
2. Mineral wool is one of the most common materials used to insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse.
This is due to its advantages, including:
- ease of installation;
- low price;
- mineral wool cannot cause a fire;
- this material is not a medium for the growth of microbes and a nesting site for rodents and insects.
However, mineral wool loses its heat-insulating properties when wet. Its ability to retain heat also decreases over time as a result of increasing density. For the same reason, it is important not to wrinkle the mineral wool during installation.
This material is produced in the form of sheets or rolls.
Pay attention! If mineral wool is used for insulation in particularly cold areas, it is spread in several layers.
2. Other popular insulating material is polystyrene foam.
This is due to its light weight and low cost, as well as a number of other positive qualities:
- good sound and heat insulation;
- waterproof;
- Microorganisms, including molds, do not multiply in it.
The disadvantage of polystyrene foam is its fragility, easy flammability, and the release of gases that paralyze the respiratory system as a result of combustion.
This material is sold in sheet form. The thickness of the foam layer for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse should be 50-100 mm. To fasten the slabs to each other and to the base, dowels, thick cement mortar or special adhesive compositions are used.
3. An alternative to polystyrene foam is penoizol. It is also called carbide foam. It is a liquid substance that is sprayed over the surface. This allows you to carefully fill all the cracks. Penoizol is an inexpensive material, and its thermal insulation properties are higher than those of classic polystyrene foam and mineral wool.
4. Along with mineral wool, expanded clay is the most popular. Its significant advantage is natural origin. To insulate ceilings, granules with a fraction of 5-40 mm are used.
This material is environmentally friendly, non-flammable, and has high noise and heat insulating properties. However, when using it, it is necessary to take into account a number of nuances:
- since expanded clay is hygroscopic, it is necessary to take care of vapor and waterproofing;
- The height of the expanded clay layer should be on average 0.2 m.
Pay attention! It is best to insulate the space around the stove pipe with expanded clay or mineral wool. In the latter case, the pipe must first be covered with sheet asbestos.
The choice of insulation depends not only on your preferences, but also on the method of laying the ceiling in the bathhouse.
Options for installing a bath ceiling
Currently there are three ways to lay the ceiling in a bathhouse:
- laying is the simplest method;
- hemmed - high-quality and not very expensive ceiling;
- during installation panel ceiling The help of 1-2 people is required, but this ceiling system is very reliable and durable.
Step 1. At the first stage, boards 50 mm wide are laid on the ceiling from the side of the room. They must be laid very tightly, without gaps, and be supported and secured with the edges to the wall of the bathhouse.
Step 2. A layer of vapor barrier is spread on the plank base, overlapping the walls of the bathhouse. If expanded clay serves as a thermal insulation material, then sides are made along the perimeter of the ceiling on the roof side.
Step 3. Insulation is laid on the vapor barrier. For this method, mineral wool or expanded clay is most often used.
A ceiling of this type is only suitable for small baths without an attic: the width of the walls should not exceed 250 cm. Another disadvantage is that the thermal insulation is not protected from external moisture. And when replacing floor boards, the layers of vapor and heat insulation are broken.
Although such a ceiling requires more temporary and cash costs, but is more reliable. Moreover, its construction is easy to do on your own.
Step 1. Load-bearing beams with a cross-section of 5 cm by 15 cm are mounted on the walls of the bathhouse. A frame of beams must also be created around the chimney. To do this, grooves for the main beams are cut out in small beams that are laid across the main longitudinal ones. The frame is a square with a side length of about 380 mm
Step 2. From the inside, the ceiling is covered with eurolining or tongue and groove. When installing sheathing to beams, it is better to place fasteners not in the central part of the boards, but in the grooves.
Step 3. Place a vapor barrier on the sheathing and secure it to the beams with a stapler. The insulation must extend 15 cm onto the walls. If you have to use several vapor barrier sheets, then the edge of one should extend 20 cm onto the other sheet. The joints are secured with aluminum film on an adhesive base.
Step 4. Place thermal insulation between the beams, for example, mineral wool, expanded clay and polystyrene foam. If you use the latter, then the space around the chimney is covered with expanded clay. When laying mineral wool, cut it strictly to size and try not to wrinkle it so that this insulation does not lose its properties.
Step 5. The thermal insulation layer is covered with waterproofing, which can also be aluminum foil, polyethylene film, etc.
Step 6. Lay a deck of boards on top, which are fastened with wide-headed nails to the load-bearing beams.
If mineral wool or foam plastic is used as insulation, then the assembly of the false ceiling can be done in the opposite direction: first, the beams are installed, the external flooring is attached to them, insulation is laid between the beams, a vapor barrier is stapled to the beams, then the slats are mounted to the beams, to which they are attached sheathing
This ceiling is excellent option for baths with an attic.
From the name you can guess that this type of ceiling is assembled from panels. They are prepared in advance according to the scheme described below.
Step 1. Place two beams at a distance of half a meter from each other. They must lie strictly parallel. Their edges rest against the rail.
Step 2. Boards 60 cm long, lying tightly together, are nailed across the beams.
Step 3. The structure is turned over. It turns out to be a kind of box, which is lined with a vapor barrier from the inside and secured with a stapler.
You can assemble the panels completely, but it is better to stop at this stage, which will facilitate transportation and installation of the panels.
Pay attention! To protect the panels from distortion of the geometry during movement, slats should be nailed diagonally on the side free from boards.
Scheme of a floor ceiling in a bathhouse
The installation of the panels can be described step by step as follows.
Step 1. A tourniquet is laid on the walls of the bathhouse. It should also be laid on beams if the installation will be carried out on them.
Step 2. Lay the panels one after another.
Step 3. Place a layer of thermal insulation in them, which is covered with waterproofing.
Step 4. The space between the panels is filled with moisture-resistant heat-insulating material, for example, felt with a layer of foil.
Step 5. The top of the panels is covered with a flooring of boards, which simultaneously connects the panels to each other.
Step 6. From the inside, the ceiling is decorated with clapboard.
This option has only one advantage - the ability to use cutting boards. Otherwise, installing such a structure is much more difficult and impossible by one person. Therefore, experts recommend choosing a false ceiling.
In rare cases, lighting is installed on the ceiling in the bathhouse. Heat-resistant lamps must be used in the steam room. Under no circumstances should energy-saving or fluorescent lamps be used. It is best to use traditional incandescent lamps. The lamps are covered with wooden grilles, which protect them from contact with the lamp. But it is preferable to install lighting under the ceiling, for example, in corners.
At this stage, the installation of the ceiling in the bathhouse is considered complete.
Video - Do-it-yourself bathhouse ceiling
Video - Insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse
Many people wonder how to make a ceiling in a bathhouse and not have to worry about the condition of the building for a long time. The ceiling for this building should not only protect from bad weather conditions and retain heat, but also not absorb moisture. In the bathhouse, hot steam rises and condensation forms on the ceiling. Therefore, it is important to choose the right material for the ceiling even before making the right ceiling in the bathhouse, so that the structure will delight you for many years.
Most often, the ceiling in a bathhouse is made of durable boards or beams. The ceiling is erected only after completion roofing works, since unfavorable weather conditions reduce the effectiveness of thermal insulation and can lead to the appearance of fungus and mold on the walls.
Material selection
In order for the finishing of the ceiling in the bathhouse to be of high quality, it is necessary to choose the right material. Of course, such buildings are most often made of wood. Sometimes plastic is used, but if there is a steam room, it can be deformed due to elevated temperatures, especially near the chimney, so it is better to stick with the traditional material - wood. But even here there are secrets - not all breeds are suitable for baths.
The best solution linden lining is considered - this wood is distinguished by its delicate golden color and a pleasant honey smell. It also resists moisture well, rarely cracks and splits, when high temperatures Oh, it doesn't heat up well.
Sometimes there is an aspen finish - this tree is very durable, does not rot, and quickly releases moisture. But it has one drawback - with regular exposure high humidity and high temperatures it darkens.
It is strictly not recommended to use coniferous wood for finishing ceilings. If you like the smell of pine needles, you can make floors and benches from such wood, but not the ceiling - when heated, resin will be released, which can cause serious burns.
Ceiling device
The installation of a ceiling in a bathhouse involves laying a base (internal boards). Unedged or edged boards are often used; they are usually sheathed with clapboard (see).
A protective layer is laid on the internal boards between the floor beams to retain heat and protect against moisture. Hydro- and vapor barrier must be without cracks, joints must be sealed tightly. Boards must be selected of high quality, without knots. To create best conditions and prevent the presence of water, you need to ensure a tight fit of the boards and even lay them overlapping.
There are such types of ceiling installation: hemmed, panel and floor. Hemming suitable for large premises, floor-mounted – for small and medium-sized ones, panel-based – universal.
false ceiling in wooden bath can be done even if there is an attic (read:). Better thermal insulation for it is mineral wool. Its layer is covered with waterproofing and with outside covered with boards. This material is produced in the form of pressed slabs, which are easy to install.
Panel ceiling is the most complex flooring option, but at the same time cheaper. It is a structure consisting of load-bearing beams into which hydro- and vapor barrier is installed, and often there is also a layer of insulation - mineral wool. It can be assembled outside the building itself, but you need to take into account that it is impossible to install a floor ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands; this will require the participation of at least two people.
To do this, it is better to choose materials such as mineral wool, polystyrene foam, expanded clay - when working with them there is no need to involve specialists, and they are also quite cheap. However, experts still do not recommend using polystyrene foam for the reason that at elevated temperatures it can release toxic substances and is classified as a fire hazardous material.
Ceiling cutting
Cutting the ceiling of a bathhouse should be done by professionals. A safe chimney is the key to your own safety and the safety of the entire building. When laying a stove and installing a chimney, it is very important to follow all the rules. Even minor errors can cause the operation of the bathhouse to become dangerous due to the possibility of fire.
Ceiling vapor barrier
It turns out good vapor barrier bath ceiling when using foil-isol - this is a material with foil on a fiberglass base. You can use glassine or regular plastic film. Membrane insulation is reliable.
Insulation of a suspended ceiling
First you need to mount a frame from wooden beams, which will serve as a ceiling. Parts of the false ceiling system are attached to the frame, then it is sheathed with tongue and groove or edged board, having a thickness of no more than 4 centimeters.
A vapor barrier material is laid out on the ceiling frame, also known as the ceiling panel, and secured with a special stapler. It is imperative to provide an overlap of vapor barrier material on the walls (about 20 centimeters), then you can lay a layer of insulation. The result is a three-layer coating, which must be additionally protected with flooring made from boards - they should be attached to the floor beams with nails.
A false ceiling, unlike a flat ceiling, makes it possible to use the attic for storing towels, brooms, etc.. Its disadvantages include only its high cost - a large amount of high-quality wood will be required for the cladding.
Insulation of a flat ceiling
A flat ceiling is often used in small baths, as it allows you to create reliable and dense waterproofing. In this case, mineral wool is laid directly on the ceiling boards. Vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bathhouse is achieved thanks to a layer of bulk material (see).
To install insulation, floor boards must have a minimum thickness (no more than 5 centimeters); spans cannot be more than 2.5 meters. First, a vapor barrier is laid on the boards, then insulation. Loose thermal insulator perfectly covers all cracks and depressions. To use it, you need to create additional barriers - the sides around the perimeter of the ceiling will become an obstacle.
Insulation of panel ceilings
If the question arises of how to make a ceiling in a bathhouse that will last a long time, you should opt for the panel type. Such ceilings are made from pre-prepared wooden panels, which are assembled according to a certain algorithm.
Initially, at a distance of half a meter from one another to flat surface two beams are laid, their front edges are leveled with a lath. Then the boards are nailed on top so that their edges protrude beyond the ends of the beams by 5 centimeters. When installing the ceiling, they will be laid in these spaces. thermal insulation materials. After the boards have been attached, the panel is turned over and inner surface cover vapor barrier material and secure it with thin slats.
These operations need to be performed outside the walls of the bathhouse, so you will need help to move the wooden panels - you won’t be able to do it yourself. To avoid deformation of the panels during transportation, they must be secured with two jibs, which are subsequently removed.
When laying finished panels on beams, a sealant must be used (usually jute). There should be at least 10 centimeters between the outer surface of the wall and the edge of the panel - this distance will make it possible to install the rafters without cuts at the required angle.
After laying the panels, you can begin to create thermal insulation. If fibrous thermal insulation material is used, its width should be slightly larger than the distance between the panels. In the case of foam insulation, its sheets must be cut exactly according to the distance between the bars.
Waterproofing should be laid on top of the thermal insulation layer - it cannot be placed on the floor beams. It is necessary to place a heat-saving seal between these two layers so that the heat does not disappear due to the joints between the panels.
If the question arises of how to make a ceiling in a bathhouse, it is better to opt for a false ceiling. It will cost more than flooring and panel, but it is strong and will last for many years.
-> Floor and ceiling
1. Top cover
2. Ceiling
Very important for any building high-quality installation ceiling. Ceiling- this is the first and important barrier on the way internal heat. Since warm air accumulates at the top, it is obvious that a leaky ceiling is the main source of heat loss. This is especially pronounced at elevated temperature conditions baths.
The ceiling height in my bathhouse is 2.2m. However, to organize a steam room “according to all the rules,” I would advise making the ceiling height 2.5 m.
On top of the rough ceiling, exactly under the mats, counter strips are nailed - boards 10 cm wide and 20-25 mm thick, on top of which they are mounted finished ceiling from clapboard or something similar. The finished ceiling boards are laid parallel to the rough ceiling. The lining material is any, including coniferous. Rumors that spruce or pine boards in a bathhouse bleed resin are greatly exaggerated- a droplet will appear somewhere, so it’s easy to remove it. Do not forget that pine is a strong energy donor and, therefore, this material is the most preferable for a bathhouse.
In the steam room, the ceiling is made in exactly the same way, only the rough ceiling can be made from thicker boards (40-60mm thick).
It is not allowed to use plywood, fiberboard, chipboard for ceiling lining, since these materials are made using adhesives based on formaldehyde and phenol, which are toxic carcinogenic substances.
Please note: in Germany, Finland, and Sweden the use of these materials in residential construction is prohibited.
3. Vapor barrier
Main task vapor barriers do not allow warm, humid air to penetrate into the insulation, otherwise moisture from the air will condense inside the insulation, the insulation will get wet and lose its insulating properties.
4. Insulation.
In Belarusian villages the following insulation materials were also used:
1. Backfilling (laying) with dry maple leaves in a layer of 10 - 15 cm, on top of which a layer of soil 5 cm thick was poured. No vapor barrier was made under this backfill, since the leaves are laid horizontally and cope with this task well on their own.
2. Liquid clay is mixed with sawdust in the following proportions: clay - 1 part, sawdust - 3 parts. Clay is a good natural antiseptic and does not allow sawdust to rot or mold. The disadvantage of this method is that a layer of such insulation 10 - 15 cm thick takes several months to dry.
3. Kostra - a product of flax processing - is very effective insulation, however, is highly flammable and combustible. To reduce the fire hazard, 3 parts of fires were mixed with 1 part of soil and laid in a layer of 10 - 15 cm.
You shouldn’t stick out your lip contemptuously - these cheap old-fashioned methods can give a head start to many newfangled expensive insulation materials in terms of thermal insulation properties. And in terms of environmental friendliness, it is generally unrivaled!
I would especially like to dwell on the inadmissibility of using insulating materials such as polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, and polyurethane foam in the bathhouse.
All these substances emit formaldehyde, styrene and other toxic substances. When heated, the rate of release increases, and at temperatures above 60°C, destruction processes begin to develop in them with a change in volume and intense release of toxic substances.
Since in a bathhouse the speed of a person’s metabolic processes increases sharply, all these poisons are successfully absorbed by the body through the skin and respiratory tract, which over time leads to a whole bunch of diseases, including cancer. Styrene is especially dangerous for the female body.
I will quote excerpts from an article by Evgeniy Shirokov, Ph.D. tech. Sciences, Chairman of the Board of the Belarusian Branch International Academy ecology.
Architect Dmitry Tikhashin (Belarus): “Everything new is a well-forgotten old... In the early 1980s, the Dalstroyproekt Institute (Magadan), of which I was an employee at that time, developed and implemented it in the Severovostokzoloto Department structural system prefabricated buildings and structures in remote areas of the extreme northeast of the USSR (Magadan region, Kamchatka).
The system was based on the lungs aluminum panels with “filling” - expanded polystyrene 200 - 250 mm thick. The helicopter transported up to 300 m³ of enclosing structures per flight, the load on the permafrost is minimal - the foundations are lightweight, the heat transfer resistance is sufficient...
For hard-to-reach northern regions - an ideal option. Many buildings were built: production workshops, gold processing factories, service houses and a series of two-story residential buildings- in the village of Bilibino, in Chukotka, in other places...
However, 5 years later, the USSR Ministry of Health, after inspections and studies that were closed, decided to ban further construction and living in such houses. The reason for checking and making a decision were numerous facts of unsuccessful pregnancy in the houses of this series. Then it was officially believed that formaldehyde and other emissions from polystyrene foam, their high concentration in residential premises, were probably to blame for this.
The story is similar with the well-known “beams” at BAM - the dream of the newlyweds - the builders of the legendary highway. Many still remember well these metal “barrels”, insulated with polystyrene foam from the inside. About the same design diagram, the same consequences for pregnant women (the families were young, and they were settled first), and the same result - a ban on production 5 years after large-scale implementation, despite the presentation of high state awards to the developers. Interestingly, the residents of these houses did not feel any odors or discomfort.”
So, men, if you want to have healthy children and grandchildren, then draw your own conclusions...
Calculation of insulation thickness.
At calculating the thickness of insulation We will be guided by the following SNiP:
SNiP 02/23/2003 “Thermal protection of buildings”.
SNiP 23-01-99 “Building climatology”
SNiP II-3-79 “Construction heating engineering”.
These documents are easy to find in the public domain on the RuNet. Just type their name in the search window. I advise you to download them, as they will be needed for calculations.
Calculation procedure:
1. According to Table 1 “Climatic parameters of the cold period of the year” SNiP 23-01-99 “Building climatology”
We determine Dd - Degree-day of the heating period, °C day using the formula
Dd=Noheat (Internal - External)
Where,
Тint - the calculated average temperature of the internal air of the building, equal to 21°C.
Тexternal - average outside air temperature during the heating period (column 12 of Table 1)
Notopit - duration, days, of the heating period, taken for a period with an average daily outside air temperature of no more than 8 °C. (column 11 of Table 1)
Determine Dd - degree-day of the heating period in the village of Babenki, Ivanovo region. RF.
Using Table 1 of SNiP 23-01-99 “Building Climatology” we determine the necessary parameters for the city of Ivanovo.
Noheats = 219 days; Text = -3.9°C;
Then,
Dd=Noheat·(Тinternal - Тexternal) = 219·(21-(-3.9))=219·(21+3.9)= 5453°С day;
Dd = 5453°C day;
2. According to Table 4 “Normalized values of heat transfer resistance of enclosing structures” SNiP 02/23/2003 “Thermal protection of buildings” we determine the normalized value of heat transfer resistance Rreq, m °C/W, substituting the resulting value Dd into the appropriate column and column;
Determine the normalized value of heat transfer resistance Rreq in the village of Babenki, Ivanovo region. RF.
According to Table 4 “Normalized values of heat transfer resistance of enclosing structures” SNiP 02/23/2003 “Thermal protection of buildings”
In column 2 - “Public, except for those indicated above, administrative and domestic, industrial and other buildings and premises with wet or wet conditions”,
in column 5 - “Attic floors, over unheated crawl spaces and basements”,
We find the normalized value of heat transfer resistance Ro for the value Dd closest to the obtained Dd = 5453°C day.
In our case, this is 6000°C day.
For this value, Rreq = 3.4 m °C/W;
Rreq = 3.4 m °C/W;
3. Determine the thickness of the insulation:
Where,
R - heat transfer resistance of the insulation layer, m °C/W;
λ - Thermal conductivity coefficient of the selected insulation, W/(m °C), which is determined according to SNiP II-3-79 “Building Heat Engineering” Appendix 3 “Thermal performance indicators of building materials and structures”
R=Rreq-R1-R2-...-Rn
Where,
Rreq - normalized value of heat transfer resistance, m °C/W
R1,R2,...,Rn - heat transfer resistance of layers of all structures (except for the insulation layer), which are located between the indoor air and the outdoor air, m °C/W. This could be: finished ceiling, rough ceiling, attic floor, roof materials.
Where,
Tn - thickness of the structure, m;
λn is the thermal conductivity coefficient of the material from which this structure is made, W/(m °C).
Determined according to SNiP II-3-79 “Building heating engineering” Appendix 3 “Thermal technical indicators of building materials and structures”
Determine the thickness of basalt wool insulation in the attic of a bathhouse in the village of Babenki, Ivanovo region. RF.
The following structures are located between the indoor air and the outside air (with the exception of the insulation layer):
Finish ceiling made of pine (lining), thickness 1.5 cm;
Rough ceiling made of spruce (board), thickness 3cm;
The attic floor is made of pine (board), thickness 3cm;
Rough roof decking made of spruce (board), thickness 2.5 cm;
Slate, thickness 0.6cm;
λ pine=0.18 W/(m °C)
λ spruce = 0.18 W/(m °C)
λ slate =0.35W/(m °C)
λ bazvata =0.06 W/(m °C).
Then the heat transfer resistance of the insulation layer:
R=Rreq - Rfinished ceiling - Rrough ceiling - Rattic floor - Rrough flooring - Rslate=
3.4 - 0.015/0.18 - 0.03/0.18 - 0.03/0.18 - 0.025/0.18 - 0.006/0.35 = 2.68m °C/W;
The thickness of the insulation is:
T=R·λ=2.68 0.06= 0.16m;
The minimum thickness of basalt wool insulation is 16 centimeters.
5.Attic space
Attic space- a convenient and necessary part of the building. If the roof slope is 35 - 45 degrees, then in the attic you can make a spacious room with a ceiling height of 2.0 - 2.2 m. This room can be used as a rest room, as a room for storing brooms, or as a room for feasts, etc.
If we are going to make a room in the attic (uninsulated attic), then we need to lay a floor in the attic.
We lay a finished floor on the subfloor made of any material that suits your taste and financial capabilities.
For example:
Batten
Moisture-resistant laminate
Parquet
And others...
When laying the floor, ventilation gaps of 2 - 2.5 cm between the walls and the finished floor are also required.
6. Hatch to the attic
This design provides reliable thermal insulation.
