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Painting an MDF door: choice of paint and coating technology. How and how to paint wooden doors with your own hands Paint interior doors made of PVC

Sometimes the interior of a house becomes boring and boring. Then there is a desire to change it or supplement it with something new. Doors are especially susceptible to aging and fading of paint. Although they are the most reliable and durable, their frequent use erases their shine and beauty and leaves minor scratches.

Such doors are solid and are made by pressing waste lumber, so painting MDF at home is difficult, but possible. And at the same time it will give your home an updated look.

In order to paint the doors, you will need MDF paint. This coating applies easily to some slabs, and is difficult to apply to others. Such properties depend on the components from which the board was made. The material fraction causes them to absorb the coating applied to them too quickly.

In order for the color to apply evenly, you need to choose one for MDF doors that matches the chemical composition of the material being painted.

Therefore, when choosing paint and varnish materials To work you need:

  • choose paints without a strong odor, for example, water-based paints;
  • quick-drying. These include paints on acrylic base;
  • with a high percentage of adhesion for strong adhesion of the coating and the surface of the object;
  • with low consumption;
  • a certain color so that the door fits harmoniously into the interior of the apartment.

Nowadays there is a special polyurethane paint for MDF on sale. It is an environmentally friendly coating material, odorless and volatile components. It has high wear resistance and resistance to chemical elements.

Tools

To paint the surface of an MDF door, we need certain tools.

  • Tassels. Narrow for small parts and hard-to-reach places and large. Instead of a large one, you can use a roller or spray gun. The lint on the brush should not creep in, so you need to buy a quality tool. Otherwise, then you will have to collect hairs from the brush all over the door.
  • Roller must be terry or wool, because foam rubber slips on the surface.
  • Mixer or drill with attachment for mixing the coating composition.
  • Special bath for working with paint, if a roller is used during application, or a small jar so that you can dip the brush into it.
  • Stencils, tape, scissors, zero sandpaper.

How to paint an MDF door?

In order to paint or repaint MDF doors from one color to another at home, it is necessary to cover the floor of the workplace with paper so as not to get dirty in the process. Place two timbers under the surface to be painted. This is done so that in the future you can easily turn the canvas over to the other side. MDF doors can be painted not only when new, which are made specifically for painting, but also repainted from one color to another.

The procedure is quite simple and does not require any special costs or effort. MDF doors are painted in several layers. Before each application, the previous layer must be completely dry. But first you need to prepare the canvas.

Preparatory stage

To paint MDF at home, the door is removed from its hinges, freed from fittings, and placed on prepared beams. Using heat, the old coating is removed and the material itself is prepared for painting. MDF is carefully sanded with sandpaper.

It is better not to use other tools, as they can damage the material. The remaining debris from sanding is collected and mixed with PVA glue, used as a means to get rid of various defects that appeared during sanding.

If there are glass inserts in the door, they must be sealed with tape to prevent paint from getting in and causing additional trouble.

After the MDF door is sanded and leveled, they proceed to the surface priming process. This is a very important point before painting.

Padding

Before covering MDF doors with paint, it is necessary to apply a layer of primer. To do this, you can use drying oil. You need to wait for the primer to dry completely. Then inspect the surface again for defects and scratches. If necessary, cover all cracks and chips with putty and sand thoroughly.

Then you should apply two more layers of primer so that it can clog all the pores and reduce the amount of paint material absorbed.

And only after thorough priming of the surface and complete drying can you proceed to painting.

Painting stage

If you purchased MDF doors for painting, we skip the first two stages. When the product is prepared, you can not be afraid and start painting the MDF yourself. It is necessary to paint the ends and small parts well. An alternative application method is to spray paint if you don't want to bother with a roller or brush. But first you need to paint everything well hard to reach places with a narrow brush.

After the first layer has been applied, it must be allowed to dry completely. There will be small stains on the surface, but they will then be covered with the next layer. And, after the second layer has dried, you can apply the final third.

When using water-based or special polyurethane paint, a layer of dried coating on the surface will never prevent MDF doors from closing, as happens if they are painted with nitro enamel.

Antique

Glesal thinner can be used as a finishing layer. It will add rigidity to the fibers of the medium-density MDF sheet. It also helps create a textured surface. Using this thinner, you can achieve such types of door decoration as “antique”, “Venetian coating”, “imitation bark beetle” and much more. The final stage in painting will be applying a layer of varnish.

The apartment is a one-room apartment in KOPE '96. It’s tempting, of course, to increase the area of ​​the bathroom, but just in case, I want to consult with experienced people. What problems might arise if the plumbing cabin is removed?

Crooked mirror

Good afternoon. My problem is a crooked mirror in the bathroom. I noticed this point a long time ago, but I’m not at all ready to give up the mirror, because... it goes with the only cabinet that fits in my small bathroom. Interested in the reasons - why does it distort? and how to solve this issue? Here are the versions that I heard over the phone in St. Petersburg companies that deal with mirrors: 1. It is necessary to change the mirror itself. There are 2 options: they make a mirror for me, I glue it to the base (issue price is 1000) and they make a mirror for me and replace it on the base (3200). 2. Everything needs to be changed - I heard a version that any mirror will be distorted if it is glued to an uneven base. An uneven base is very plausible in my case, because... the entire set of furniture is Chinese for Russia (. I won’t change it - it’s simply unrealistic to find a cabinet for 55 that is not shabby. To change a mirror with a base - pick up or order something in a light color wooden frame- the issue price is from 1000 to infinity)... What to do? Has anyone encountered such a "problem"? For information - I have 2 identical curved mirrors - ...

hotel redevelopment

Dear tenants, I ask for help in resolving the following issue. This apartment is supposed to be converted into a hotel for tourists (2-3 people, possibly with children), and rented out as a hotel room. Therefore, the question is: is it possible to redevelop this apartment so that “everyone would be comfortable with the least effort"? I wouldn’t really like to tear down the walls between the room and the entrance, although (according to preliminary forecasts) they are not load-bearing inside. Is it possible to do without moving the door? The apartment has a separate entrance, the door is basically moved. Thank you!

Please help me with the design of a living room in a two-room apartment

The room is 3m wide and 5.7m long. One wall is 5.7 load-bearing, the second is 3 m with a window not located in the middle. On one side 1m to the wall, on the other 0.5m (to the load-bearing). The two remaining walls are made of plasterboard. The doors are located along the length of the plasterboard wall at a distance of 1 m from the second plasterboard wall. Standard 800mm doors open into the room. In principle, we planned to put a corner sofa with a long side without a bolster under a 3m wall. There they hung wallpaper in a pattern (with rotation to fit the size of the sofa). They planned to put a 40" TV under the window in the corner where the walls are 1m thick. Wardrobes didn't plan here. I want something, but it seems like I can’t do it without expert advice. All I come across is a TV on the wall or on a nightstand on a long wall, but that doesn’t suit us. I would also like the color scheme of the furniture. The wallpaper is already hung, light beige. To suit the size of the sofa, the corner is covered with wallpaper with a pattern, complete with the main ones. Doors are light oak. The beige sofa is a tone darker than the wallpaper. Thank you in advance for your qualified advice.

Feedback from site visitors:

I'll tell you about my own experience in painting chipboard And film facades in furniture production.

Painting chipboard

Chipboard was painted, but rarely when the project indicated that, for example, the outer side wall of the kitchen or the details of the portal had to be the same as the painted or patinated facades.

In this case, the surface of the chipboard was sanded with paper of P220 grit or coarser in order to break the top protective layer of the laminate on the chipboard to a matte surface. Next, paint was applied, but more often they worked according to the scheme - sanding, one layer of primer, sanding, finishing. No adhesives were used.

Problems arose if the edge was poorly glued and after finishing the paint fell into places where the edge did not fit well, worse if it peeled off, but again this was due to poor performance of the gluing equipment, a violation of the gluing technology.

Painting facades covered with PVC film

We had to resort to the technology of painting film facades in order to simplify the technology of painting facades with complex internal milling.

What were the difficulties: the main ones were the labor intensity of grinding complex milled profiles and the risks of damaging the profile itself, which already required alteration of the facades.

In addition, it was necessary to apply sealing primer, sand it, apply base primer, sand, apply primer again, and sand again. In the case of film, the surface and profile of the MDF facade in PVC film were simply pre-grinded and finishing layers were applied.

It turns out that the technology was reduced to a minimum, well, sometimes they could apply primer to the film before painting, but sanding the primer in this case was much easier than sanding unlined MDF.

Important point Another thing in all this is how well the film is glued to the MDF facades. If the film peels off from the edge, if there are inclusions under the film, glue sagging, poor-quality milling, poor preparation of the facade surface before pressing, then we will get not the advantages, but the disadvantages of this technology.

Therefore, the technology for pressing facades in a membrane vacuum press must be at a high level.

In addition, the film itself must be selected for the facades. Firstly, it should be white, and secondly, it will be better if it is intended just for painting, that is, without a protective top coating.

Film suppliers called this film primer. In principle, you can use just white film, but a trial application and an adhesion test are necessary.

Interestingly, no adhesive primers were applied to the film facades; it was enough to matt the film by sanding. But, in any case, experiments are always needed, and then widespread use of the technology, otherwise primer may be needed to improve the adhesion of paint to film or chipboard. For such primers, contact your suppliers, they will help you select the necessary paints and varnishes.

Add aesthetics to interior doors made of different materials possible using coloring. This method does not require large financial costs, because it is enough to choose the right paint. At the same time, the rules of its use, composition and compatibility with the door material are taken into account.

How to prepare an interior door for painting

To restore appearance old door or to give aesthetics to a new product without decorative covering carry out painting. This procedure is applicable to canvases made of natural wood, chipboard or MDF.

After painting, the interior door becomes bright and looks beautiful

Processing with coloring components requires door preparation. The technology of this process depends on the initial state of the product.

Features of preparation:

  • The painted door must be cleaned of its coating. To do this, use a narrow spatula, a hair dryer, and fine-grained sandpaper. The turned on hair dryer is held at a distance of 20 - 30 cm from the surface, the paint is heated for a few seconds until it swells, and then the layer is removed with a spatula. The entire door is treated this way, and the residue is removed with sandpaper or a sander. If the canvas is varnished, then it is removed with a special remover or removed by sanding;

    When heated with a hairdryer, the paint swells and is easy to remove.

  • if the door is new and does not need to remove paint, then the surface is treated with antiseptic compounds. This is necessary to protect the material from moisture, mildew and mold, as well as better adhesion of paint to wood or chipboard. For application, use a brush, which evenly distributes the primer over the surface. The product must be intended for wood and must be compatible with paint;

    The primer can be transparent or colored

  • Remove the fittings from the canvas, remove dust after sanding, and place it on a flat horizontal surface. It is not recommended to paint the door by hand; in this case, streaks will easily form on the surface. They spoil appearance products. All cracks and cracks are covered with putty to match the color of the canvas. This is true for doors made of wood, chipboard or MDF.

    Before painting, fill all cracks and cracks with putty.

Preparation involves not only processing the door, but also the workspace. For painting you also need tools, namely brushes. different sizes or spray gun. Pieces of clean foam rubber, fabric, masking tape, stationery knife.

Video: removing old paint from a door

Technology of painting interior doors

The quality of painting a wooden surface depends not only on proper preparation, but also on the choice of paint, compliance with the rules of its use. Therefore, before starting work, you need to know the features of the work stages, which are expressed in the following:

  1. The coloring composition is prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions. Some products require thinning with a solvent, but it is always important to thoroughly mix the paint until smooth and then pour a small amount of the product into the paint container. If a spray gun is used, it has a special tank.

    The spray gun is simple, but helps create an even and beautiful coating.

  2. The composition is applied in small quantities with light movements to the surface. It is important to do this evenly, which will allow you to get a layer of the same thickness on any part of the door. After processing one side of the canvas, you need to wait for it to dry and turn the product over for painting on the other side.

    After processing on one side, the door is turned over

  3. After the first layer has dried on each side of the door, you can begin applying the second. The paint is applied in small quantities and distributed as evenly as possible. The finished product is left to dry completely, and then the fittings are installed and hung on the hinges.

    A bright door will easily make the interior original

These steps relate to the general technology of painting doors made of chipboard or wood. Depending on the type of paint used, the material of the canvas, and the tool used, some features of the work must be taken into account.

Video: painting an interior door with a brush or roller

Selection and features of paint application

Manufacturers produce many options for wood paints. Such compositions are also suitable for MDF or chipboard, since these materials consist of wood shavings and connecting components. The only exception may be water-based paint, because it helps to moisten chipboard or MDF, which will lead to deformation of the canvas.

Paint for wooden interior doors

Several types of paints can be used to process wooden products. Before purchasing one or another option, you should definitely read the manufacturer’s instructions and the specifics of using the composition.

The choice of paints includes options with different characteristics

The following types of compositions are optimal for wooden interior doors:

  • alkyd paints are available in different colors, create a durable and dense coating, and are resistant to fading. At the same time, the products are characterized by a strong unpleasant odor that lasts for several days after painting. An affordable price and a variety of shades make alkyd compounds in demand for treating external doors, while interior doors will smell unpleasant for quite a long time;
  • acrylic paint has no pronounced odor, provides a thin coating, dries quickly, has bright color. The disadvantages of such a product are expressed in the low strength of the layer, low resistance to mechanical stress, high cost with average characteristics;
  • oil compositions are suitable for wooden doors, contain natural drying oil and have a strong odor that disappears a few days after painting. High quality coating retains its appearance for several years, and affordable price makes the paint popular;
  • nitro enamel or nitro varnish are optimal for wood, as they create a durable layer rich color, which is resistant to mechanical and chemical influences. High toxicity requires the use of nitro paint in a room equipped with good ventilation.

All of the above products have a certain odor and therefore, to use them, it is important to follow the rules and use personal protective equipment. If weather conditions permit, it is worth setting up a place for painting outside. The compositions should not be used near heating devices, open fire.

Paint for chipboard doors

On sale you can find doors made of chipboard that do not have a laminated or veneered coating. They are intended for self-finishing and they are easy to paint. Such products already have a small layer of primer that protects the canvas. But before painting, another layer is applied on top of this layer, providing a better base for painting.

Chipboard canvases can be painted with a roller, brush or spray gun

Oil, alkyd and nitro paints are optimal for processing chipboard panels. Acrylic compounds rarely used, since the thinness of the layer and low hiding power of these products does not allow hiding the rough surface of the chipboard.

If the doors have a laminated layer, then it is very difficult to apply paint evenly over it. That's why the best solution is a surface treatment without a decorative coating. To do this, the same steps are carried out as when preparing and painting wooden products. It is important to make sure that the chipboard door does not bulge, since this material is not resistant to moisture. And they also use water-repellent impregnations for wood.

Painting interior doors made of MDF

MDF stands for finely dispersed fraction and is sheets made from pressed fine chips and binder components. At the same time, the structure absorbs moisture and liquid substances well. Therefore, thick paints are used to treat doors, and the surface is pre-primed.

MDF doors are covered with a film with a pattern in the form of wood structure, and painting should be carried out on the canvas without a decorative coating

Thick paints, for example, nitro compounds or oil-based products, are suitable for processing MDF doors. When processing and selecting, the following rules are important:

  • composition must provide glossy surface, since matte paint will emphasize the unevenness of MDF and make the doors unsightly;
  • The optimal consumption of coloring composition for a door measuring 200 x 80 cm is 1 kg. The same amount of primer will be required for the canvas;
  • the product is applied to the surface treated with a primer in several layers of equal thickness;
  • For primer, you can use drying oil, which will eliminate excessive porosity of the door material.

The compositions should provide a durable, hard layer after drying. The color can be any, and each subsequent layer is applied after the previous one has dried.

Features of acrylic paints and odorless compositions

Acrylic enamel is one of the common options, which forms a matte finish with only a slight shine. The product is not resistant to mechanical or chemical influences. Therefore, the acrylic coating is additionally protected with a durable varnish, which will add gloss to the surface.

Acrylic paints are produced by different manufacturers, but it is important to choose the optimal color and protective varnish

When painting interior doors made of natural wood, MDF or chipboard, products that do not have a strong odor are often used. Such paints do not contain toxic components and are characterized by an average level of durability and a variety of colors.

Products without a strong odor include the following options:

  • acrylic enamel has a slight odor and therefore the product can be used to paint a door directly in a living room, but with open windows;
  • acrylic - a light coating suitable for interior doors;
  • Thermal enamel dries quickly and is intended for painting radiators of a heating system, but is excellent for wood, as it is water-based.

These types of coatings are presented in packages of different sizes. When choosing a specific option, you should take into account that when painting with a brush or rollers, there is a greater consumption of the composition than when applying with a spray gun. Therefore, it is best to purchase the product with a small supply.

Color of interior doors

Thanks to painting, you can give the door any shade. To do this, you need to choose a paint color taking into account the interior of the room. You should be guided by the following rules for selecting a door shade:

  • canvases of strict dark shades from chocolate to black are suitable for a solid interior in an English, classic style;
  • light doors from white to light brown are optimal for a children's room, as they make the environment pleasant;
  • bright green, red, purple and other tones are appropriate in the style of pop art, modern, high-tech and other design trends;
  • Multi-colored canvases are often installed in a children's room or in an apartment decorated in a single bright style.

Doors can contrast with color scheme interior This bright solution is original, but requires perfect combination other details. For example, in a setting decorated in blue and white tones, yellow doors will look unusual. In this case, it is worth choosing a shade that is not too saturated, which will allow you to achieve harmonious combinations.

Yellow and white doors look bright and are suitable for a child's room

The color of the door should also match the shade of the frame. If the canvas is multi-colored, then the frame is painted in any one tone that is present on the door. It is ideal if the color of the canvas is repeated in the decor of the room. In this way, harmony and correct combinations are achieved.

When dyeing, it is important not only to choose the right product, but also its color. Wood processing technology, MDF materials or the chipboard is uniform and therefore you can easily paint the doors yourself in the desired shade. Preliminary preparation will ensure lasting and high-quality results.

For decorative and protective coating there is a wooden door on sale large assortment paint and varnish products. This article will talk about what paint to paint doors in. different conditions operation.

  1. What paint is better to paint wooden doors
    • Stains
    • Paints
  2. How to paint doors correctly
    • Surface preparation
    • How to repair cracks and chips
    • Sanding the door
    • Applying primer
    • Applying finishing paint
  3. Painting with stain

What is the best paint to paint wooden doors?

Lucky

This is a traditional wood coating. It adds shine, preserves the color of the material and protects it. Varnish is usually chosen to cover doors in baths or saunas. It is most convenient for them to cover new products, since old ones will require careful preparation, which includes sanding the entire canvas to its original light color. True, you can immediately choose a tinted varnish, which will add color and varnish in one step.

Although varnishes seem universal at first glance, they have different compositions and purposes.

  • Nitrocellulose varnish is suitable for coating wooden doors in residential areas. It is not recommended to use it in baths or bathrooms due to the low strength of the resulting coating. It can crack quickly.
  • Acrylic varnish. Resistant to ultraviolet rays and adverse effects. It can be glossy or matte, most often it does not have unpleasant odor. A door treated with it can be washed.
  • Polyurethane varnish. It has high adhesion to the wooden surface of the door and high strength characteristics. There are glossy, semi-gloss and matte. They are suitable for application not only to wood, but also to veneer, parquet, and countertops. Resistant to abrasion, but gives yellowish color to light wood.
  • Water based varnish. It dries for a long time and does not have an unpleasant odor. Their properties can vary greatly as manufacturers include different additives. More accurate information can only be found on the jar with the composition.
  • Polyester varnish. They are toxic and have a pungent odor, which is why they are chosen for painting outdoor wooden doors. Creates a particularly durable coating.

Advice: if you are painting the door of an outdoor building, it is important where the work is done and with what composition. If it is located in the sun, then it is worth choosing long-drying compounds that, when heated, penetrate better into the structure of the wood and are applied more evenly. If the varnish dries quickly, it will evaporate too quickly, resulting in uneven paint. It’s even better if the door is first removed from its hinges and painted indoors. This will help prevent dust and insects from sticking on.

  • Oil varnishes. They have a high content of fatty resins and are therefore incompatible with some paint surfaces. Therefore, before application, it is necessary to completely clean the wooden door of the old coating. The consistency is quite thick, so it is more evenly applied with a brush than with a spray gun. They do not have a pungent odor. Wax oil varnishes capable of lightening soft wood.

Now about how to paint wooden doors: for interior best choice will become a polyurethane or acrylic based varnish. But for exterior work or for bath doors, it is best to choose durable varnishes, the so-called deck varnishes.

Stains

Their task is to tint wood and provide short-term protection from adverse factors. But such coverage needs to be constantly updated. Their main advantage is that they do not hide, but rather emphasize the beautiful structure of the tree.

There are 4 types of stains available:

  • alcohol-based - dries most quickly, but has a pungent odor and more at a high price;
  • water-based - it will take longer to dry, but it does not have an unpleasant odor. Only suitable for interior work in rooms with normal humidity;
  • oil-based - before use they must be diluted with solvents, such as acetone;
  • varnish-based - most often called azure. Although they significantly reduce painting work, achieving a beautiful result is quite difficult. To obtain a smooth, uniform surface, you should spray it with a spray gun.

Advice: when choosing between a quick-drying stain and a slow-drying one, you need to take into account not only their drying time, but also the result obtained. Thus, water-based compounds penetrate deeper into the wood, making the color more saturated and the pattern clearer. If the drawing is not important, but is needed quick result or light color, then it is recommended to choose alcohol stains.

Paints

Using paints you can not only paint new doors, but also restore old paintings. The main thing is to understand the types of paint and choose the right one.

  • Paints belonging to opaque coatings are made on the basis of organic solvents, such as polyurethane, acrylic, etc. This group also includes water-dispersed paints acrylic coatings. Despite their toxicity and fire hazard, they are very popular due to their ease of application and the high quality of the resulting coating.
  • When choosing what paint to paint interior doors, most often they choose alkyd paints that have water-repellent properties. They lie superficially, without penetrating the wood structure, and form a dense, strong film up to 1 mm thick. When working, it is important to observe one nuance: application is possible only on a completely dry surface, otherwise air bubbles will form, which will lead to further cracking of the paint.

  • Today they have practically disappeared from sale. oil paints based on drying oil. This is due to the high price and low strength characteristics of the protective layer. Sometimes it is replaced with alkyd resin oxoli, this reduces the cost, but the composition acquires a sharp unpleasant odor that lasts for several days.
  • The most popular are acrylic and polyurethane paints based on organic solvents. This is especially true for water-dispersed compositions; water is used as a solvent (this classic version white painted Canadian doors). They are odorless and create a vapor-permeable coating. When they dry, a film is formed that protects the wooden door from humidity and temperature changes. But when frozen in a jar, they lose their properties.
  • The paints are universal; they can be used to paint both prepared wood and directly over the old coating.

How to paint doors correctly

Before painting wooden doors, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work.

Surface preparation

Most often this concerns no longer new doors that require restoration or simply updating. Preparatory work, first of all, involves removing the old paint coating. This is done either with sandpaper or a spatula. But both of these options will take a very long time. Let's look at how to simplify the task.

  • Heat the surface with a hair dryer. This household tool often in demand and inexpensive, so almost everyone has one home handyman. Unlike a household one, it has significantly more power and heats up more strongly. It is enough to just hold it close to it for a few minutes. old paint as it begins to bubble. After this, cleaning it with a spatula is much easier and faster. You must work with gloves. Inexpensive hair dryers overheat quickly, so they cannot be used for a long time.

Advice: when cleaning a wooden door with a hair dryer, you should not set the temperature above 220oC, otherwise the wood structure will be severely damaged and will collapse faster in the future.

  • Paint removal. This is what the special ones are called. chemical compositions designed for removing paint. In appearance, it is a gel-like mass of a transparent color or with a slight tint. There are several types of them on sale, including in this case you need to choose a remover whose label indicates that it is intended for wood. It’s easy to work with; just use a brush to spread it evenly over the entire surface of the door and leave for 30 minutes (the paint should start to come off). Next, it is cleaned off with a spatula or scraper. When preparing the door surface in this way, you cannot immediately begin subsequent painting. First, everything is thoroughly wiped with a dry cloth, then washed with soapy water and allowed to dry.

Tip: All paint strippers have a strong odor that can make you dizzy. Therefore, it is recommended to take safety precautions. If, after applying the gel, you immediately cover the surface with film (ordinary food film will do), the smell will be somewhat less and the effect of the composition will be better.

  • Folk method. It has been tested for years and requires acetone, film and a spray bottle. Using a sprayer, acetone is sprayed onto the surface of a wooden door and immediately, preferably in several layers, a film is applied. It is important that it fits tightly, without air access. As a result, after 15 minutes the paint will begin to bubble and come off. But the composition of acetone negatively affects wood.

How to repair cracks and chips

  • Wood is a rather vulnerable material. Therefore, when using a wooden door, chips, dents or cracks often form on it. During restoration, they can be sealed so that after painting they become invisible.
  • To mask minor defects, wood putty is useful; for large ones, furniture wax is useful. Externally, they are easy to distinguish, the latter looks like a dense block, and the putty, like all analogues, has a pasty consistency. All types of wood repair compounds have a palette of shades that are closest to natural. You need to choose the one closest to the color of the door being repaired.
  • Before restoration, the door, cleaned of paint, is wiped with a rag soaked in solvent. Then use a small spatula to take a little putty and fill the gap tightly. The surface is immediately smoothed so that no grooves remain. It is convenient to work with a rubber spatula, which is used to apply grout when laying tiles.
  • When repairing a large flaw, use a soldering iron with a thick tip to heat up a little furniture wax. The softened, but not liquid mixture is applied to the repaired area. If the figured part is broken, then you need to try to repeat its contour with the mass. If a gap is sealed flat surface, then the patch should protrude somewhat. This is necessary in order to then level and smooth it with sandpaper.

  • When working with wax or putty, although it is possible to disguise the chip under the tone, it will still stand out due to the lack of a wood grain pattern. But there is a way out here too. There are special furniture markers on sale that are also matched to color. With their help, lines are drawn that repeat the pattern of the base. It is cheap, in the range of 50 - 100 rubles. They are painted with it at the last stage before applying varnish or stain.

Sanding the door

  • Often even a new wooden door needs to be sanded. If there are even small chips, burrs or unevenness on it, this procedure should not be skipped. This is done either with a grinding machine or manually with sandpaper.
  • To make it easier to work by hand, you can screw a piece of sandpaper onto a small block using self-tapping screws or secure it with nails. The main thing is that the caps are recessed and cannot scratch the surface. First, the processing is carried out with coarse-grained paper, and only then with fine-grained paper. Special attention It is recommended to apply cross-cut ends, which, as a rule, always have roughness.

  • Sanders significantly speed up the work process. For initial rough processing you will need a circular grinder, and for the finishing one - tape. If the door has patterns or relief, then you can’t do without hand sanding.

Applying primer

To apply the primer, a roller with a small pile, a brush, a sponge or a spray gun may be useful. It is important that brushes or rollers do not leave lint or hairs. It is enough to simply rub them with your hand before starting work.

As a rule, primers are colorless and have a very liquid consistency, so applying them is not difficult. But there are some recommendations on this matter:

  • It is more convenient to apply impregnations and stains to a wooden door with a natural sponge;
  • Water-based and alkyd primers are applied with brushes, rubbing in carefully so that no smudges form. Brush movements should be ordered from top to bottom or vice versa.

After the primer layer has dried, check the surface by hand. Sometimes the composition raises the fluff, making the wood rough to the touch. It is necessary to lightly go over the finishing sandpaper with the finest grain once again.

Applying finishing paint

  • If you didn’t have a special primer on hand, you can make it yourself from paint that is intended for the door. To do this, it is diluted with a solvent in a ratio of 1:2. It is more convenient to apply it with a brush. In the future, this contributes to a more even coloring and the absence of unpainted areas.

  • Mix the paint well before use. It will not be possible to evenly paint the entire area of ​​the door at one time. And don’t try to do this by applying too thick a layer of paint. If some place remains lighter, it will be covered with subsequent layers.
  • If the door was not removed before painting and it is in a vertical position, then work begins from the top, gradually going down. This will avoid the influx of drops onto the previously painted surface. When the canvas is positioned horizontally, you can paint as you like, but adhering to the given direction, without chaotic strokes and joints.
  • The first layer is left until completely dry. Time varies individually and depends not only on the composition, but also on temperature and humidity. environment. As a rule, this takes no more than a day for alkyd paints.

Advice: when buying paints and varnishes in a store, the buyer tries to choose a composition that dries as quickly as possible. Best performance in this regard, water-based paints. But they are characterized by low moisture resistance, so they are not recommended for painting a wooden door in a bathhouse.

  • When dry, carefully inspect the surface. Paint almost always lifts up wood fibers that have been smoothed down during sanding. You can’t leave them, you’ll have to go through the sandpaper again. It’s okay if the wood starts to show through a little somewhere, but you should still try to avoid this.
  • It is recommended to apply the second layer across door leaf. As in the first case, you should not apply too thick a layer of paint. After drying there should be a completely smooth surface. Often two layers are enough, but if there is doubt about the uniformity of the coating, then the last third layer is applied.

Painting with stain

Painting a wooden door with stains differs from painting paintwork.

  • Stains, regardless of the base on which they are made, have a fairly liquid consistency. In order for the color to apply evenly, the wood is moistened with water before painting, which contributes to less absorption of the composition and a more uniform distribution.
  • If the door is positioned vertically, the stain should be applied from the bottom up to prevent drops from falling on the unpainted surface. This also applies door frame with slopes.
  • When painting in a horizontal plane, the first layer is applied along the grain of the wood. After drying, the second time the composition is laid across, and the third time the finishing composition is applied again lengthwise. Thanks to this, uniform toning of all elements and from all sides is achieved. It should be noted here that after drying the color will be slightly lighter than when applied. Therefore, more layers are sometimes required to achieve the desired result.

  • Like paint, stain raises fibers, forming a rough surface that must be sanded again with a sander.
  • When using stain on alcohol based There is no need to re-sand as it does not lift up the fibres. In addition, drying time is only half an hour. But still, the first place in popularity is occupied by aqueous solutions, due to their environmental friendliness and non-toxicity.

How to paint laminated doors

Laminate coating, especially in interior doors, is replacing products made from natural wood. They look beautiful, can imitate expensive types of wood, are easy to use and, compared to solid wood doors, are affordable. It is no wonder that they occupy an honorable first place among the doors installed in apartments and country houses. Despite the durability of the material, they are also subject to mechanical damage. But many owners don’t know whether laminated doors can be painted and throw them away and buy new ones. Next, we’ll look at how to restore it by painting.

If you need to disguise stains or scratches, you will have to choose opaque paints. Also for work you will need:

  • brush or roller;
  • spatula and wood putty;
  • rags;
  • sandpaper;
  • solvent;
  • enamel for laminated surfaces.

Stages of work

  • Lamination on the door has low adhesion to all materials. If you just start applying it, it will slide off, forming smudges and stains.
  • Therefore, the entire surface must be thoroughly sanded and any dust that has formed must be wiped off with a dry cloth.
  • The entire door is covered thin layer putties. The thinner and more uniform the layer, the better it will adhere to the surface, creating a durable coating. When it dries, it is lightly sanded with sandpaper, focusing on possible irregularities. Then a second layer is applied and also leveled by sanding after drying. In addition, this will make the surface rougher, which will ensure better adhesion to the finishing paint.
  • To paint a laminated door, it is better to prepare more liquid composition paint, for which it is diluted with a solvent twice. (It is recommended to choose a composition diluted with white spirit).
  • If you don’t have a spray gun, it’s best to do the work with a brush. Use it to carefully apply the paint, rubbing it into all hard-to-reach places. It is important to ensure that no sagging occurs. It is better not to paint over than to apply too much. If this could not be avoided, then after drying it is sanded.

  • To consolidate the result, varnish is applied after three layers of paint.

If the laminated door has no defects, but you just want to update it, you can use stain or tinted varnish (the latter can only be applied with a spray gun). The technology will be reduced only to sanding, tinting and further varnishing. Therefore, if there are doubts about whether it is possible to paint doors made of veneer or any other materials, then if the technology described above is followed, it is permissible to do so.

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