What is MDF, how does it differ from chipboard, where is it used. MDF: what is it? Features and areas of application of the material Types of MDF panels for walls

MDF is one of the most popular building materials to date. The environmental safety of MDF boards, high performance indicators and variety of MDF boards gave impetus to high demand, and consequently, to the widespread development of production technologies. How MDF panels are made, what types of MDF there are and why they are good - let's try to figure it out in this article.

MDF panels: description and application

MDF painted

MDF is painted using polyurethane enamels - matte, semi-matte, semi-gloss, high-gloss. Accordingly, painted MDF can be semi-matte, matte, semi-gloss, glossy, different effects– “texture”, “chameleon”, etc.

Painted MDF

Painted MDF is most often used in kitchen and commercial equipment, as individual elements in production combined furniture made of chipboard (facades). Painted MDF is very popular among designers and people who follow fashion trends in interior design, since this type of MDF helps transform the interior beyond recognition easily and cheaply.

The production of painted MDF begins with the initial priming of ready-made boards with a spray gun (the board is primed to remove resin from the material and to increase its moisture resistance). The slab, dried after the initial primer, is primed with filler - unevenness and scratches are removed. And only after that a layer of enamel is applied to the surface of the MDF.

MDF veneered

Veneered MDF

Externally, veneered MDF is not much different from natural wood, and the service life and durability of this material even exceed the basic indicators of wood. Veneered MDF is used for the manufacture of furniture and interior design - where one would like to see natural wood, but either its high cost or unsatisfactory physical characteristics prevents it.

Let us recall that they have a thickness from 0.1 to 5 millimeters. It begins with preparing the surface - the slab is sanded and any depressions and scratches are filled with putty. Then wood veneer of one or more species is laid on the front part of the MDF board and veneered in one of three ways:

- production of cold veneered MDF consists of gluing a veneer plate using special substances;

- production of hot veneered MDF consists of “pressing” veneer plates under the influence of high temperature to milled parts;

- production of veneered MDF using membrane method consists of joining veneer and MDF surface under vacuum.

As you have seen, the production of MDF does not involve the use of hazardous synthetic substances; MDF itself does not require re-coatings

Wall decoration with MDF panels has recently become increasingly popular, due to the fact that with their help you can quickly tidy up surfaces of a fairly large area. In addition, installation of the panels will not take much time, since you will not have to wait for numerous layers to dry, as, for example, in the case of plastering works. It also helps that the surface leveled by them does not require any additional finishing, as is the case with drywall. Another advantage of this material is its quite affordable price.

MDF panels wall installation with your own hands, which can be done even if there is absolutely no experience in this work, they are installed quite simply. The main thing is to understand the principle of carrying out such cladding, prepare the surfaces and pay attention to special attention accurate calculations and markings.

What are MDF panels?

The abbreviation “MDF” stands for finely dispersed fraction, from which this finishing material is produced, including wall panels. The production of MDF involves the process of dry pressing a finely dispersed mass of sawdust and chips, using high temperatures and pressure. To bind the mass, urea resins modified with melamine are added to it, which prevents the evaporation of formaldehyde by chemically binding it (formaldehyde emission class - E1). MDF panels are considered environmentally friendly pure material, therefore it is not prohibited to use them for interior decoration. The principle of installing panels is similar to installing natural wood ones, but they have a lower price than the latter.

Installation of MDF wall panels can be carried out in two ways - by fixing them to a frame sheathing or fixing them to the wall surface using adhesive composition type "liquid nails". This glue is used not only for installing wood products and its products, but also for sealing cracks, since it contains sawdust filler. If filling of defects will be carried out on the remaining visible areas of the wall, then the adhesive mass should be selected according to color so that the repaired areas do not stand out against the general background.

MDF panels are produced in a wide variety of shades and can have a textured micro-relief pattern that imitates various types of wood or stone, so they can be matched to any interior design. In addition, the panels are easily combined with each other and can be installed vertically or horizontally, depending on what effect the owners want to achieve.

For example, if the ceiling is too high and makes the room uncomfortable, you can install the panels horizontally, using different shades alternately. If you need to visually raise the wall, then the panels are installed vertically.

The panels are produced in different lengths and widths, so before choosing the color and shape of the material, you need to think about what effect you will need to achieve.

Tools for finishing work

To make your work comfortable, you need to prepare tools in advance that will speed up the installation of the finishing material, making it as simple as possible. So, the tools you will need are:

• Electric jigsaw or vertical saw.
• Construction level and plumb line.
• Tape measure, metal ruler and construction corner, simple pencil or marker.
• An electric drill, a screwdriver, or even a regular screwdriver.
• Construction stapler.
• Hammer.
• Pliers.

Basic methods of installing MDF panels and the materials required for this

To install MDF, you will need certain auxiliary materials. Moreover, the purchase of some of them will depend on the choice of mounting method.

Installation of panels on walls can be done in two ways:

• Glue.
• Frame.

Both methods can be used to install panels both in a private house and in an apartment, but for adhesive installation the basic condition must be met - the wall must be perfectly flat. Therefore, if the panels will stick to the surface, then it must first be leveled with plasterboard or the plaster-putty method.

To install the panels with glue, you will need very few auxiliary materials - this is a composition of “liquid nails” and fittings.

If you need to level an uneven wall using MDF panels, while hiding communications behind it or installing insulation and sound insulation, you will first have to install a frame that will bring the entire future surface into one plane.

The frame for installing panels can be made of wooden beams or metal profile. It must be said that MDF fastening easier to implement on wood material, since nails or even staples from a stapler are suitable for this. When installing panels on a metal profile, metal screws will be needed, and in this case it will no longer be possible to do without them.

When using a frame, a gap will inevitably form between the main wall and the cladding, in which there will be no ventilation air circulation - such conditions are very “attractive” for mold and mildew. Therefore, before installing the sheathing, it is necessary to inspect the wall. If it is wet, it will need to be dried first and then treated with special antiseptic compounds. It is still better not to install such cladding on external thin walls at all, as it will quickly become unusable, and in addition, an unfavorable microclimate will be created in the room over time, which can cause allergic reactions in residents.

To install the facing panels on the frame, you will need the following materials:

• A wooden beam treated with antiseptic compounds, with a section of 15×30, 20×30, 20×40 or 20×50 mm, or a galvanized metal profile - the same as that used when installing drywall.
• The insulation material is foamed polyethylene of selected thickness.
• Metal straight hangers that will help align the guides exactly in one plane.

• Clamps for fastening panels to the frame.

• Small nails or staples for a stapler.
• Dowels for attaching brackets (hangers) or direct guides to the wall.
• Self-tapping screws for wood.
• Fitting profile elements - corner and plinth. It should be noted that the design of the corner for MDF panels is convenient in that it can be used for decorating both external and internal joint planes, even at different angles.

Preparing the wall surface for cladding with MDF panels

Surface preparation can only be carried out if it is dry. If signs are found on it high humidity, you must first determine the cause of this phenomenon and then try to eliminate it. There is no way to cover a damp wall with any panels.

If there are no such obstacles to the installation of MDF panels, then approximately the same preparation of the wall surface is carried out both for the frame system and for gluing. It consists of several operations:

• Cleaning the wall.

If the wall is covered with wallpaper, then it must be completely removed, otherwise in a closed space it can become a breeding ground for mold or even insects. High-quality wallpaper that is difficult to remove must first be wetted with water or steamed with an iron, and then scraped off with a spatula. Sometimes you have to resort to using special compounds for.

If the wall is plastered and whitewashed, or well-painted water-based paint, then cleaning it is not necessary.

• Wall treatment.

In the case where there are mold stains on the wall, the surface must be “treated” - treated with a special “Anti-Mold” compound or with a regular concentrated laundry bleaching agent “Whiteness”. Before treatment, it is recommended to clean the surface to the maximum possible depth with a spatula. When the applied composition is absorbed and dried, the wall must be cleaned again with a spatula, and then the treatment must be repeated. It is advisable to clean the area affected by the fungus down to the base, that is, remove the plaster in this place completely and thoroughly treat the main wall itself.

“Treatment” of affected areas of the wall with antiseptic compounds

This work should be carried out in compliance with mandatory safety measures, wearing a respirator or a special mask, in order to avoid inhaling particles of fungus-affected plaster.

• Sealing cracks.

If, after removing wallpaper or “weak” plaster, cracks are found on the wall, it is recommended to repair them, especially when planning to place heat- and sound-insulating materials under MDF panels. Cracks must be sealed so that they do not become bridges of cold, and also a place where dampness accumulates, various insects or even mold can find refuge.

The cracks are first cut in breadth and depth, ...

In order for the putty or plaster solution to adhere well to the gap in the crack, it needs to be slightly widened and deepened. Then it is cleaned of the remnants of old plaster and processed using a brush.

... and then tightly filled with repair mortar

After the primer has dried, the cracks are sealed with a putty mixture or plaster solution. In this case, it is necessary to try to ensure that the expanded gap is filled to its entire depth.

• Surface primer.

The next step is priming the entire surface of the walls. Moreover, it is necessary to choose a primer composition containing antiseptic components that will resist the occurrence and development of mold, as well as other manifestations harmful to humans.

Mandatory operation - thorough priming of the entire surface of the wall

If you plan to sheathe wooden walls, it is recommended to choose a primer that contains not only antiseptics, but also fire retardants - they will increase the fire resistance of the wood.

The primer is applied to the wall using a roller in two or three layers, each of which must dry thoroughly before applying the next.

• Installation insulation material.

Next, if the panels will be attached to the sheathing, you can proceed to gluing the insulating material. Penofol, which is glued to a primed surface, is well suited for this purpose.

The most convenient to use is penofol with a self-adhesive base.

Today you can find self-adhesive “penofol” on sale - you can very easily fix it on the wall with foil towards the room by removing the protective film backing. If such material is not found, then ordinary “penofol” is purchased. It is cut to the height of the wall and glued to Teploflex glue, applied in an even layer to the wall surface or directly to the insulation. The “penofol” sheets are pressed to the surface, and the air is expelled from under it using a rubber spatula.

Gluing the joints of adjacent penofol strips with tape

Sheets of material are mounted end-to-end, and then the glue must be allowed to dry, after which the joints are sealed with special foil tape.

Installation of frame structure

Carrying out marking

If you decide to install MDF panels on a frame, you first need to decide how the elements will be installed, vertically or horizontally, since the location of the sheathing guides depends on this factor. For horizontal orientation of the panels, the guide battens are mounted vertically. And vice versa, if the panels are mounted vertically, the frame elements are installed perpendicular to them, horizontally.

The frame is fixed on top of the insulating material. The pitch between the sheathing guides is usually selected within 500÷600 mm from each other, and they must be installed perfectly evenly.

To find the ideal vertical, you need to use a plumb line with a colored cord, with which you can mark straight lines on the wall. If lines are marked on a foil surface, then immediately after marking, each of them is additionally highlighted with a black marker using a ruler.

To determine the horizontal I resort to the help of a level. The most accurate result will be given by laser or water. If there are no such tools, then you can use a regular construction tool, pushing the bubble into the middle with special care. Having outlined the currents, they are also connected by lines using a colored cord.

Based on the markings, it will be quite easy to correctly secure the guide battens.

When marking, you need to take into account that the first frame guide is installed at the junction of two surfaces, that is, in the corner of the room or along the floor surface. The first racks will serve as a reference line for the remaining elements, maintaining the established step.

Wooden frame

Wooden blocks, despite the marking lines, when installed on a wall are still checked with a building level for evenness. Then, they are attached to the wall with dowels, for which holes are drilled directly through the beams into which they are hammered plastic dowels, after that self-tapping screws are screwed into them (or driven dowel-nails are used). Fastening elements are installed at a distance of 350÷400 mm from each other. The length of the dowels or self-tapping screws is selected so that they extend into the thickness of the wall by at least 50÷60 mm, and the thickness of the sheathing beam is added to this parameter, taking into account that the head of the self-tapping screw is completely recessed into the wood.

It is more difficult to bring all the posts of the sheathing to the same level if the wall requires leveling with sheathing, and the bars themselves will have to be secured to hangers. In this case, the installation of the frame is carried out in the same way for wooden bars and metal profiles.

First, hangers are attached to the wall along the marking lines. I fix them on the wall with two dowels, maintaining a spacing between adjacent ones of 350÷400 mm from each other. The shelves of the hangers are bent perpendicular to the wall surface.

Then the two outermost beams on the wall are installed, leveled and relative to the wall. They are attached on both sides with self-tapping screws to the shelves of the suspensions. The protruding parts of the shelves are bent back towards the wall.

The installed outer guides are connected along the outer edge with stretched cords at the top and bottom (or right and left - if the frame is horizontally oriented) - these will become reference lines (beacons) for correct installation the remaining guides in a single plane.

Metal frame

Metal profiles prepared to size are fixed to the wall according to the same principle as wooden blocks, but sometimes for structural rigidity they have liners made of timber. To secure the profile, hangers must be used, even if the wall is perfectly flat and the racks will fit closely to it.

If the frame is mounted on a wooden wall, then the hangers for attaching the sheathing guides are fixed to the wall using wood screws. If installation on another wall base is necessary, then the hangers are best secured with driven dowel-nails.

If the trim is attached to a wall that has a window or doorway, then appropriate guides must be installed along its edge, on which the cladding will first be attached, and subsequently the slopes and platbands.

Installation of MDF panels on a frame

Before installing the cladding, all electrical or other cable communications are carried out and secured under the frame, immediately determining the installation locations of sockets and switches, if they are provided on the wall being finished.

Installation begins with the preparation of MDF panels - they need to be cut to the height or length of the wall. The panels are marked using a tape measure and a construction angle, the corresponding lines are drawn along which the cut is made using a jigsaw, a manual vertical circular saw, or even an ordinary hacksaw.

• The first panel must be leveled until the ideal vertical (or horizontal) is achieved, otherwise the entire cladding will then be skewed.
• The starting panel is installed with a tenon in the corner and secured to the guides on the corner side in two or three places with self-tapping screws. On the opposite side, clamps are inserted into the groove of the panel at the places where it intersects with the sheathing guides, through which it is finally fixed with nails or staples to the wooden frame. When using metal frame The clamps are fixed using small self-tapping screws with a low head so that, after being fully screwed in, it does not interfere with subsequent installation.

• To begin with, the tenon of each next panel is tightly driven into the groove of the already installed one - this joining edge is already fixed. Mandatory level adjustment of the panel is carried out, since the configuration of this connection allows for a certain backlash. After precise alignment, the panel is fixed in the same way with clamps.
• So continue the cladding until the end of the wall (or until the end of the section, for example, to the doorway). The last panel on the plane is cut to its thickness so that it fits freely into the groove, leaving a gap of about 5 mm in the corner. The final fixation of the final panel is carried out with self-tapping screws, directly through it. It's okay - the fastener caps at the beginning and end of the lined wall will be hidden by decorative corners.

Horizontal installation of panels is carried out in the direction from floor to ceiling, and the first panel must also be perfectly level. Fastening to the sheathing follows exactly the same principle as with a vertical arrangement.

• The panel on which the socket or switch is to be installed is pre-cut round hole with a diameter corresponding to the size of a standard socket box (usually 67 mm). Drilling is carried out using a core drill.

The socket must be securely fastened and not bend when inserting the plug of electrical appliances. To ensure rigid support against the wall, it is recommended to additionally secure wooden fragments on the back side suitable thickness. The front part of the socket and switch is screwed onto cladding panels or to the corresponding sockets of the electrical outlet.

Installation of MDF panels with glue

It is somewhat easier to install MDF panels with glue than with lathing, but using this method, it will not be possible to install insulation.

• To install the first panel, you need to mark a vertical or horizontal line on the wall, depending on how you plan to install it.

When gluing, the position of the panel must be checked by level.

• Particular attention should be paid to the choice of adhesive for working with MDF panels - it must have some special properties:

— The glue must remain sufficiently plastic even after its initial hardening, otherwise there is a risk of deformation of the panels. A composition must be selected that will not be affected by humidity and temperature changes.

— The glue must have a sufficiently thick consistency so that it can be applied thickly or thin layer, according to circumstances, and also evenly distributed over the glued surface.

The best option is “liquid nails” glue

The “Liquid Nails” composition precisely meets these requirements in terms of basic parameters. The primer with which the walls are treated in advance will create good adhesion for the glue on their surface, so the panels will adhere securely to it.

• The glue is applied to the back side of the MDF lining in dotted or wavy lines. Panel with applied glue First, it is pressed firmly against the wall, and then it is torn off and left to “weather” the glue for 3–5 minutes. After this, for final fixation, the panel is reinstalled and pressed in the right place, and held on the wall surface for several seconds until the adhesive composition has set securely.

The adhesive can be applied to the back side of the panels pointwise or in a “snake” pattern.

Therefore, in order to speed up the gluing process, the composition is applied immediately to 8 ÷ 10 canvases, which are pressed against the wall and then torn off. Having spread, applied and torn off the last of the 10 panels, they glue the first, second and so on until it comes to the last. When installing the canvases, they need to be pressed very well against the wall surface, and to better fixation You can even grab each of them with self-tapping screws in two places. They are screwed into the groove of the panel, and then the self-tapping screw is closed with the installed tenon of the next one.

• If the trim is installed horizontally, it is recommended to wait until the glue under the lowest fixed panel has dried thoroughly - it is necessary to create reliable support for the rest of the canvases. If there is no time to wait, then the panel can also be secured to the wall with self-tapping screws.
• The last mounted panel, if necessary, is reduced in width - it is measured, lined up and the excess part is sawed off using a jigsaw. In the corner, the last panel is screwed to the sheathing or wall with a self-tapping screw.
• The final installation elements are corner fittings and plinths. The corners are glued at the junctions of two planes using “liquid nails,” covering the heads of the screws that secure the panels to the corners of the wall. In the same way, these fittings are fixed around door and window openings (if special profiles are not used there - platbands or slopes).

They can be mounted in different ways, depending on the chosen design - glued with the same glue, installed on special fasteners, or screwed with self-tapping screws to the wall surface. Attaching skirting boards to the floor would be a very serious mistake.

Find out how to produce by reading step by step instructions in an article on our portal.

Advantages and disadvantages of finishing walls with MDF panels

Having become familiar with the technological process of installing MDF panels, we can, to summarize, formulate their main positive and negative qualities.

So to merits Such finishing material includes the following qualities:

• Quite simple installation with the ability to mount panels both vertically and horizontally.
• A wide variety of colors and textured patterns will allow you to choose a finish to suit every taste and interior style.
• When installing MDF panels on a frame sheathing, cable communications can be hidden behind them.
• With the help of panels, even curved walls can be given a respectable appearance and visual evenness, especially when the right combination shades.
• Panels, unlike drywall, do not require additional finishing - this saves time, effort, and materials.
• MDF finishes are easy to care for, as the surface only needs to be wiped periodically with a damp soft cloth.
• MDF finishing wall panels have a very affordable price.

Disadvantages Such panels include the following points:

• This type of finishing does not create a perfectly smooth surface, since small gaps or depressions almost always form at the joints, depending on the design of the panel.
• When attaching such cladding to the sheathing, a gap remains between it and the wall, in which, if there is insufficient pre-treatment or other unfavorable conditions, dampness may accumulate, and microflora that is unsafe for humans may develop. Very often, especially if the walls of a private house are lined, this empty space becomes a favorable place for nests or travel routes for rodents.
• The coating of the panels is not highly resistant to mechanical stress- it can easily be damaged, for example, by moving pieces of furniture without sufficient care.
• MDF is in no way a moisture-resistant material, so if the wall behind the cladding begins to become damp, the panels may swell and the cladding will begin to deform.

However, it can be noted that despite the above disadvantages, MDF panels are only gaining popularity and fully compete with. Installation of such cladding can be easily carried out even by one person without outside help, moreover, having absolutely no experience in such work, unless, of course, he follows all technological recommendations.

And in conclusion, a small “visual aid” in the form of a video about the installation of MDF panels:

Video: how to install MDF panels on walls

It is possible to obtain an attractive wall design, provide comfort in the room and an environmentally friendly environment in it, using modern finishing material - MDF. It is produced in the form of panels. It gained fame extremely quickly due to its practicality and attractiveness; its use is allowed in rooms with extreme loads: kitchen, living room, hallway. MDF panels surprise with their variety of shades and textures; they can very accurately imitate natural wood materials, brickwork or tile. The cost of the material is low; if you install it yourself, you can get significant savings on finishing work; during operation, it will not require particularly complex care.

MDF wall panels, their properties and advantages

To begin with, we note that MDF panels are produced not from solid wood, but from waste, and no synthetic impurities or glue are used, process consists of heating wood shavings to high temperatures and pressing it under high pressure. The strong connection of material fragments occurs due to the natural polymer compound released during heating - lignin.

Among the important advantages of MDF panels it should be noted:

• environmental friendliness of the material,
• Possibility of quick and easy installation,
• good thermal insulation and noise insulation characteristics,
• material strength, long term services,
• ease of replacing any piece of finishing if necessary,
• simple care that does not require the purchase of expensive household chemicals,
• the ability to hide wires, pipes, and other utilities under the cladding layer,
• affordable cost of material.

The main disadvantages of the panels are:

• flammability of the material - when laying electrical cables under the slabs, they will need to be carefully insulated in a self-extinguishing corrugation,
• inability to use in conditions of high humidity,
• fragility, the need for very careful handling when performing installation work.

Types of MDF panels

In the manufacture of panels we use different methods finishing of the front side, respectively, the panels themselves are divided into two types:

• laminated, the surface of which is covered with PVC film, characterized by an attractive appearance, imitating the structure of natural wood and other building materials, not prone to dust accumulation, resistant to damage;
• veneered, for finishing which veneer is used best breeds wood

The external finish of the panels can be shiny - glossy, or matte.

We purchase MDF panels and materials that will be required during installation work

Although installing MDF panels is not a complicated process, it will nevertheless require preliminary preparation, shopping itself facing material and necessary components. To correctly calculate the number of panels, you should first take into account the width of the space to be finished. MDF panels have the following dimensions: their standard width is 148, 190, 240 mm. Determining the required number of panels is simple: it will be the quotient of dividing the width of the wall by the width of the panel. You should purchase a little more material than was received by calculation: there may be defects, some of it will be used for scraps, and losses may also occur as a result of errors.

For work you will need to stock:

• MDF panels,
• insulating corrugation, if electrical wiring will be laid under the panels,
• screws,
• ceiling lamps,
• pendants,
• claymer,
• profiles.

Preparing the walls will consist of cleaning them from remnants of old wallpaper. You will also have to remove the baseboards. The surface of the walls must be treated with an antifungal primer, especially for rooms with high air humidity. If necessary, the walls can be covered with insulating material, for example, foam foil A. It is attached with glue, end-to-end, with the foil side facing the room.

The use of finishing corners will greatly simplify installation. Consisting of strips located with a gap of 2 mm, they are intended for fastening strips; a film corresponding to the color of the panels is applied to their surface. The formed angle very easily bends outward or inward. This point is especially important if the geometry of the existing corners is far from ideal.

To build a frame for the cladding you will need slats, preferably 20x40 mm. There is no point in using slats with a large cross-section - the panels are light in weight. In addition, slats with this cross-section are constantly available for sale in construction stores. Fastening the slats can be done using plastic dowels and wood screws.

To fasten MDF panels to the frame bars, you will need clamps; most often they are sold complete with the panels. It will be convenient to glue the corners liquid nails. We should especially talk about the quality of the glue - since the panels can change under the influence of moisture and temperature, the glue for them must have some plasticity. Such characteristics of the glue are usually indicated on its packaging. In addition, the glue must have a texture that allows it to be applied in a thicker or very thin layer, depending on the curvatures present on the walls. Liquid nails meet these requirements.

Installation of the sheathing should be carried out by checking the evenness of the structure, for which you can use a regular building level.

Before attaching MDF panels, you should definitely make sure the quality of the installation of the sheathing - this will ultimately determine general view walls To fasten the panels to the sheathing, clamps are used.

Those who decide to decorate MDF panels with their own hands should not neglect the following recommendations:

1. If you need to cut panels, it is best to use a jigsaw - the cut will be smooth and clear. Here it should be remembered that milling, sanding and drilling panels is quite simple to perform; the tools used are the same ones that are used when processing wood materials.
2. In rooms with high humidity levels, it is better to make the frame from a metal profile. If the sheathing is made of wood, then it should be treated with high-quality antifungal impregnations.
3. If you plan to finish the junction of the ceiling and walls with plinths, then before installing the panels around the perimeter of the room, install a fastening device. After installing the slabs, a ceiling plinth is installed in its groove.
4. In places where hanging interior items are supposed to be placed, the frame will need to be reinforced with additional bars.

Finishing with MDF panels - work order

Installation of the sheathing begins from the most convex place on the wall. The bars are mounted in a horizontal direction, with a step of no more than 40 cm. Increasing the step can lead to distortion of the pattern.

You should start attaching the planks from the corner; it is advisable to make the calculation in such a way that the last panel remains intact. Before starting installation work, you can repeat the calculations or even try on how the purchased material will fit on the wall. The tenon of the first panel should be in the corner.

Along the length of each panel you will need to use 5-6 fastening clamps. They are distributed evenly and secured to the slats using a screwdriver. The opposite end is fixed using self-tapping screws.

In order for the head of the screw to sink into the material, you must first drill a hole with a diameter of 8-10 mm in the strip. The next plank is fastened with a tenon into the groove of the previous one; this procedure is repeated until the last one is installed. Each of the joints at the joints, side and top edges are secured with corners using liquid nails.

If you choose the option of laying panels in a horizontal or diagonal direction, then you should change the direction of the sheathing - its strips should be located perpendicular to the panels of the facing material.

All significant depressions found on the walls should be filled with blocks or wedges.

From below, the joints of the slabs are covered with a regular plinth; it can be secured with nails or sealed with sealant. To make it easier to attach the plinth, the bottom batten of the sheathing is fixed at floor level. The joint under the ceiling can be made with a corner or plinth.

Methods of fastening MDF boards

Methods of fastening MDF boards may be different, depending on the condition of the concrete surface on which installation is being carried out. If it is leveled and clean, then the panels can be glued directly to the wall using adhesive-sealant.

It is applied in a zigzag over the entire board, then it is pressed firmly against the wall for a couple of seconds. If excess glue comes out, carefully remove it with a spatula.

If a layer of insulation is laid under the MDF boards or numerous utility lines have to be hidden under it, then the best option The slabs will be installed on a metal frame.

If you need to hide noticeable unevenness in the wall, it is better to use a lathing made of wooden beams- it will be stronger and more stable. In places where sockets or switches are installed, holes of the required diameter should be made using an electric drill.

MDF panels for the kitchen - are they a suitable material?

You can often find discussions about installing MDF panels in the kitchen. It is not easy to give a definite answer to this. MDF is an environmentally friendly material, it does not have unpleasant odor, therefore cannot cause any harm to people in the kitchen.

At the same time, the material is not moisture-resistant to the extent that would allow its unhindered installation in rooms with high levels of humidity - under the influence of water, the material may lose its attractive appearance. But using MDF boards to improve areas remote from places where water is used, for example dining area, it’s still possible. At the same time, it is recommended to mount the panels on a metal profile - wood in a humid environment can suffer from fungi and putrefactive processes. In addition, experts recommend paying attention to relatively new option panels with a special moisture-resistant coating.

Care of MDF boards

The period of operation of the slabs will not cause special troubles. The surface of the slabs is very smooth, it is well laminated and covered with paints. Cleaning the material from contaminants is done with a moistened soft cloth; when cleaning, do not use substances containing abrasive particles.

If during operation the peeling of the top coating of the film becomes noticeable, it can be removed using fine-grained sandpaper. Any of the damaged slabs can be replaced quite easily with a new one.

With the development of technology, more and more construction and finishing materials are appearing on the market. At the end of the last century we had MDF. There are MDF boards that are used in construction work, There is finishing panels, which can be used to decorate walls/ceilings or make furniture.

What is MDF and its manufacturing method

MDF appeared on our market in the last years of the last century, and it was invented in the USA in the late 60s of the 20th century. You can understand what MDF is if you translate its English name - MDF - Medium Density Fiberboard. This translates into Russian as “medium density fiberboard.” That is, the Russian-language name was formed using transliteration - instead of Latin letters they put similar Russian ones. A common phenomenon for our language.

MDF - medium density fiberboard

Manufacturing process

MDF is made from wood, ground to the state of very fine chips, almost to the state of fibers. Wood processing waste is mainly used, so the release of this material does not harm forests.

The ground wood is cleaned of sand and other foreign inclusions, washed and dried. The prepared mass is heated, a tape of the required width is formed from it, and then pressed. Under pressure from heated wood fibers a natural binder, lignin, is released. It is he who is the binder in this material. The final shape of the products is given in a finishing press, which squeezes out the remaining air from the mass, forming a homogeneous MDF structure.

After pressing, the cooled material is submitted for grinding, where the flaws on the surface are removed from the MDF and the material is brought to the required thickness.

Not all types of wood provide a sufficient amount of binder. Then a similar, previously isolated lignin or other natural binder is added. Of all leafy trees MDF materials is considered the safest, since the binder is natural, and formaldehyde emissions are comparable to those of wood (emission class F1, that is, it is allowed to be used for the manufacture of furniture for children's and medical institutions).

During production, fibreboards can be given special properties. Basically, moisture resistance additives increase moisture resistance and reduce flammability.

Appearance and release forms

In its “pure” form, the material has a grayish-brown color; when cut, it is a homogeneous dense mass. The exact shade depends on the type of wood ground and the amount of bark. In this form, the material is used as sheet construction - for the construction of light partitions and leveling walls.

The surface of MDF can be “refined”. It can be painted, laminated with PVC film, covered with veneer or plastic. This gives a fairly large number of design options, which is used in the furniture industry and in the production of finishing materials.

Production technology allows us to form products of various shapes, thicknesses, and sizes. During finishing pressing, a certain relief can be formed, which is used in the production of furniture and doors. Also made from MDF finishing materials- slabs, panels. They make skirting boards, platbands, and other moldings from it. All these materials can be used for interior decoration.

The structure of MDF is fine-fiber; dust is generated during milling, which makes it possible to produce carved products. This is used in making carved decorative elements— panels, decorative grilles, figured furniture facades.

MDF or chipboard - which is better?

Having appeared on the market, MDF created competition. This was facilitated by its properties:

All this led to the growing popularity of the material. Even though MDF is more expensive than chipboard. To some extent, MDF even competed with wood. For example, skirting boards, MDF trim, and finishing panels are increasingly used. This is due, firstly, to lower cost, and secondly, to greater practicality. Wood required regular care- painting, varnishing. MDF special care does not require. It is simply wiped with a damp cloth, using liquid detergent if necessary.

MDF boards

The technology for manufacturing MDF boards allows you to vary the density within a wide range: the minimum value is 760-780 kg/m3, the maximum is 1100 kg/m3 and even higher. Material with a lower density is used where the abrasion load is low: in the furniture industry, for finishing walls and ceilings.

MDF boards high density is used for floor finishing. The material in this category has high abrasion resistance: one and a half times higher than that of oak (oak - 6.9, MDF - 10-11). If we add that the coefficient of warping along the diagonal is only 1.2 mm for every meter of diagonal (for plywood it is 15 mm), the love of furniture makers and finishers for this material becomes clear.

Dimensions and tolerances

One of the most popular forms of release is slabs of different thicknesses and formats. They can be found with the following parameters:

It is convenient to work with MDF boards, since this material has very small tolerances for deviations from dimensions:

• the difference in thickness cannot exceed 0.2 mm (for plywood 0.5-2.5 mm);
• length may differ by no more than 5 mm;
• The width difference cannot be more than 2 mm.

When joining two sheets, the difference in thickness or size is very small or non-existent. Therefore, finishing MDF with sheets or panels is progressing quickly.

Types of surface finishing of sheet material

MDF boards are produced with different types surface treatment:

If we talk about construction and repairs, they use polished MDF boards. When leveling walls or installing light partitions, when leveling floors and ceilings. Here is their approximate scope.

Frame mounting

If the surface of the walls or ceiling is uneven (deviations more than 1 cm), the method of installing sheet MDF is the same as for plasterboard - on a frame. The frame is usually assembled from wooden blocks, but no one forbids installing profiles under drywall. The cross-section of the bars is selected based on the unevenness of the wall - they must compensate for the entire height difference. Most likely, you will need 20*30 mm bars or something like that. They are stuffed horizontally in increments of 40 cm. With this step, the joints of the sheets (they exist if the ceiling height is higher than 280 cm) fall on the bar.

Vertical jumpers are installed for the installation of sheet panels from the same timber. They are placed in increments:

• 54. 3 cm - for sheets with a width of 2170 mm;
• 42.3 cm or 63.5 cm for a width of 1270 mm.

The installation step of the vertical jumpers depends on the thickness of the selected material. For thin sheets (3-4 mm) it should be less, for thick sheets (5-6 mm) you can make more.

MDF sheets/plates are attached to the assembled frame. The peculiarity (compared to drywall) is that for hidden fastening you need to drill holes for the fasteners. Otherwise, the fasteners will not fit into a dense slab. To prevent the caps from sticking out above the surface, the hole under them is widened using a drill of a larger diameter.

After installing the screws, holes remain on the surface. They are sealed with putty. If you are planning to putty the walls next, proceed as before - first fill the holes with putty, immediately removing the excess with a spatula. After drying, the putty areas are sanded with fine-grain sandpaper to finally get rid of possible unevenness. Then, having cleared the surface of dust, they begin to putty the walls.

Glue installation

If the walls are smooth, you can mount MDF boards without a frame - using glue. You can use liquid nails or a composition like SM-11. The operating procedure is as follows:

To ensure that the sheet does not move anywhere during installation, you can make holes in the corners and, after leveling, fix the sheet. Even if the self-tapping screw only sticks to the plaster, this will help, since it is required only at the initial stage - until the glue begins to harden.

This method seems simpler and costs less (due to the absence of a frame), but leveling bulky MDF boards is not at all easy. It's better to try on a small section of the wall. The thing is that it is impossible to disassemble what has been installed. Only if you destroy the casing completely. So it’s worth thinking about which method is better.

Installation of sheet MDF on the floor

For laying on the floor, choose high-density moisture-resistant MDF boards (from 900 kg/m 3 and above). Sheet thickness - from 5 mm when laid on a subfloor and from 10 mm when installed on joists. IN in this case the installation method is similar to leveling the floor using plywood, only the gaps are smaller, as it changes its parameters wood board much less plywood. Otherwise the rules are similar:

After sanding the putty, the surface of the MDF floor is ready for painting. If you do everything carefully, you get a perfectly flat floor. This base can also be used as a base for flexible finishing materials or laminate.

MDF finishing panels

Finely dispersed pressed boards serve as the basis for the production of decorative finishing panels. The front surface is covered with paper. This is the most cheap option. Slightly more expensive ones are laminated with PVC film. There are also panels covered with veneer. This is a more expensive material. There are also options with plastic, but very rarely.

MDF panel with three-dimensional image - 3D

Decorative MDF panels are most often used to cover walls and sometimes ceilings. This finishing method saves time: the surface is leveled and immediately takes on its final form, since no additional finishing is required.

Types of decorative MDF panels

We will not talk about colors and shades, but about the shape of the inlet and the type of decorative surface. The shapes of finishing panels made of pressed wood fibers are:

When choosing MDF panels, pay attention to the type of finish. Most cheap material covered with paper over which a thin layer is applied protective coating. It is clear that such a surface gets scratched quickly; it can only be wiped with a soft, slightly damp cloth. You cannot even use a rough sponge, otherwise light spots will form. Such MDF panels are good for finishing the ceiling - there is no mechanical load at all. If you install them on walls, it is better to immediately cover them with two layers of varnish. You choose the type of surface yourself - gloss, semi-gloss, matte, semi-matte... It is important that the film is durable.

More expensive ones - with PVC and veneer - do not require additional finishing, but the price is 2-3 times more expensive. If your budget is limited, the option described above is not bad.

Installation methods

MDF panels are mounted either on the frame or directly on the wall using glue. The technology is described in the previous paragraph and differs only in that clamps are used for installation - special fastening plates for hidden mounting. The first panel on the wall is installed in the corner. Here it is attached through and through using self-tapping screws. All others are fixed with clamps. After installation is completed, the corners are closed with a special corner profile. It is mounted with glue - applied in a thin layer and pressed at the installation site.

There is also a system of profiles - starting, finishing, connecting and corner (outer and inner corners). But this fastening system is more expensive; it is used with veneered MDF panels, square or rectangular.

There is another subtlety of installing decorative MDF panels on the ceiling. If you use thin sheets/planks - 3-4 mm thick - you need to install hangers often, otherwise the material will bend under its own weight. When using slabs 6-8 mm thick, hangers can be installed less often. They are more rigid and do not bend. But the weight of the finish will be greater, so you will have to use more powerful guides and the hangers themselves.

A variety of panels for wall decoration are used very often in the renovation process. However, when choosing, many focus solely on price, ignoring many important technical specifications, which determine not only the service life of the material, but also the impact it can have on human health. Let's look at what is remarkable about MDF wall panels: prices, a catalog of photo examples, characteristics and operating features of this material.

If you look at the catalog of MDF wall panels, you will find that in appearance this material is not much different from all other fiberboards, which are made by pressing wood chips under strong pressure with the addition of special organic binding materials. Due to the effects of pressure and high temperature, the final product has a dense, uniform structure, which significantly expands the possibilities of its processing even in comparison with natural wood.

In order to make MDF sheets, as a rule, products obtained from wood processing or low-grade wood are used. At the same time, the resulting product fully complies with established environmental and technical requirements and provides extremely wide possibilities for use. MDF boards are painted or covered with a special film, which gives them an excellent appearance.

Among the advantages that MDF has over other similar materials are:

• complete absence of synthetic substances, environmentally friendly;
• providing additional sound insulation;
• moisture resistance: quality panels do not deform under the influence of steam or water;
• the slab can be independently decorated in any style using one of the methods for its final finishing;

• the surface of this material is not a favorable environment for the emergence and development of various microorganisms, mold and fungi;
• the material lends itself perfectly to any machining, including sawing and decorative carving;
• MDF boards have a dense structure, due to which they perfectly hold elements screwed with self-tapping screws or nailed to them;

This solution has many advantages, not the least of which is price. You can also buy from MDF much cheaper than if you purchase high-quality plastic. At the same time, photos of MDF panels indicate that the range of color options is very large and you will not be limited in your choice by anything.

Useful advice! You can order a kitchen apron made of MDF with photo printing. It will be quite expensive, but in this way you can bring any of your ideas and preferences to life.

Another remarkable ability of this material is to hide the imperfections of the base. An excellent example of this is MDF door trims. Their price is simply incomparable to what it would be if the door had to be completely replaced. At the same time, the effect that you achieve using MDF panels for doors can be considered more than worthy.

How to choose high-quality MDF panels for walls yourself

To buy MDF wall panels, you will need a small amount, but when purchasing, you should pay attention to the quality of the purchased material, so that in the future you will not have to spend money again on purchasing an already high-quality product. Let's look at what you should pay attention to before buying MDF boards:

1. Availability of a product certificate, which must indicate that only environmentally friendly raw materials were used in the production process. It must also be stated that the product does not contain formaldehyde or other toxic or hazardous impurities.
2. Make sure that the product offered to you corresponds to the characteristics that the seller initially stated. Inspect the batch, assess how large the number of defective products is. If you see that the number of low-quality units is large and there are cracked, chipped or uneven panels, it is better to refuse to purchase products from this manufacturer.
3. It is worth paying attention not only to the sizes and prices of MDF panels for walls, but also to their colors. In addition to the fact that you just have to like the color of the MDF panel, make sure that it is evenly applied by meticulously examining several slabs from the batch.

Colors of MDF panels: catalog of the most popular solutions for creating an interior

Technical characteristics and price of MDF wall panels do not always play a decisive role in the matter of choice. Often we focus on color, wanting to choose the most suitable option which will fit perfectly into the interior. In order to appreciate the diversity of the offered assortment, just look at the photo of the decoration of the hallway or any other room with MDF panels, which are offered on specialized resources.

On sale you can find both single-color options and imitations of a wide variety of surfaces: MDF panels for brick, stone, exotic breeds wood, MDF white gloss, and much more.

You can often see furniture made from this material. Most often on the Internet you can find photos of kitchens made of MDF. Both the prices and characteristics of such products are much nicer than those made from many other materials, and the design possibilities are almost limitless. This was the reason for their popularity.

How to attach MDF panels: lathing size and sheet installation

It is quite possible to install MDF wall panels yourself. For this purpose, it is enough to buy MDF panels for walls, the dimensions of which correspond to the requirements of the existing room, and also find some tools that everyone will probably have in their pantry.

There are two possible ways fastening: on an adhesive base or on a lathing. The second option is mainly used, since it is this that allows you to hide existing communications, and also not to worry about dismantling the previous coating. If glue is used, the prepared surface must be perfectly flat and smooth, which is not always possible.

To work you will need a tape measure, a building level, a screwdriver, a metal corner, hand saw or a jigsaw, as well as screws or glue, depending on which method you choose.

In order to evenly attach the panels using glue, you first need to apply the appropriate markings, starting from the corner of the room. The vertical and horizontal boundaries of each panel that will be fixed are indicated. After this, you can apply glue to the back of the panel as indicated on the packaging and glue the element to the wall. As a guide, it is recommended to look at photos of wall decoration with MDF panels.

Useful advice! Start gluing next panel only after making sure that the previous one was placed level. To do this you need to use a building level.

If you decide to do the sheathing, then you must adhere to the standard recommendations for this type of work:

• to create the sheathing, you can use both metal guides and simple wooden blocks;
• the distance between the sheathing elements should be 40-50 cm. This will ensure the most reliable fixation of the panels;
• It is necessary to strictly ensure that the sheathing is level. Otherwise, this may affect the cladding - it will be wavy;
• you need to start attaching the slabs from the corner of the room;
• it is necessary to check that at the joints the panels fit tightly to each other without forming gaps;
• between the floor and the panels it is necessary to leave some distance, which will subsequently be closed;
• in order to give the corners an aesthetic appearance, use a special flexible corner.

Like any others renovation work, facing walls with MDF panels requires effort and attention. However, this task can be done by almost anyone who has at least basic skills in working with tools. To make your task easier, you can use detailed videos or photo instructions, of which there are quite a lot on the Internet.

Regardless of the area of ​​use, MDF wall panels for interior decoration demonstrate equally good performance. The main thing is to approach their choice responsibly, conduct a thorough inspection and make sure that the products comply with certification, are environmentally friendly and can serve you for a long time.