They say “Starting is half the battle done.” But, as practice shows, the final stage of work is no less important. This also applies to the process of laying tiles. Or rather, its final stage - grouting the joints. Well-done work can hide some cladding defects, while poor grouting ceramic tiles spoils the whole look of perfect styling.
The technique described in the article is suitable for both wall and floor ceramic tiles.
Types of grouting materials
There are two main types of grouting materials in the modern construction market. The first is based on cement, the second on epoxy resin.
Grouts based on cement are dry mixtures. They are diluted in most cases with water, less often with latex. There are also ready-made grouts on sale, but their cost differs significantly. In addition to cement, the mixture contains various additives, the presence and ratio of which determines the difference between grouts.
All available compositions on cement based, intended for grouting ceramic tiles, are divided into 3 classes:
- dry hardener;
- industrial cement;
- latex mixture.
Epoxy grouts include in addition to epoxy resin also a hardener. A mixture of components of this building material allows you to form strong seams between ceramic tiles that are resistant to impacts and the action of various chemicals.
This type of grout is used, as a rule, in retail premises and enterprises. Firstly, epoxy compounds more expensive than cement ones. Secondly, they have a more viscous consistency, which causes certain difficulties during work: epoxy grout is used if the thickness of the laid tiles is more than 12 mm and the width of the joints is wider than 6 mm, otherwise the grout simply will not be able to seep into narrow joints.
Width of joints between tiles
Width between tile joints~3 mm – one of the most popular The width of the joints between the tiles being laid depends on the preferences of the installer: some people like wider joints, others narrower ones. There are no strictly established sizes. There are only recommendations that allow you to choose “your” option. So, for example, when laying tiles with side dimensions of 10–60 centimeters, it is recommended to make joints of about 3 mm. But if the tile has irregular shape, which you don’t want to draw attention to, it is better to leave the gaps wider, but not more than 12 mm.
Grout joints should not be made larger than 12 mm, since their strength decreases proportionally with increasing size. You can avoid cracking of such a seam by adding coarser sand to the grout and strictly observing the proportion between the diluted mixture and water (the more water, the less durable the seam will be).
Some people are afraid that their seams will be wide and make another mistake: they leave such a small distance between the tiles that it is then difficult to fill them with grout properly. As a result, water seeps into the cladding through the seams.
Selecting grout color for tiles
As a rule, the color of the grout is matched to the color of the tile. There may be some deviation in tonality - a tone lighter/darker, but designers do not recommend making a sharp contrast. Of course, sometimes they do this, but this is a rather bold decision.
If you need to choose the color of the grout for the tiles laid on the floor, then you should not give preference to a white composition, even if the tile itself white. Within a few days the seams will turn gray, with a dirty tint. It is for this reason that light gray grout is selected for white floor tiles.
Grouting process
And now directly about grouting the joints. This process consists of several stages and requires careful preparation.
1. Preparation of tools and materials
So, what can we use?
Materials:
- grout
- sealant
Tools:
- scraper with rubber nozzle or roller
- paint roller or paint brush
- jointing
- wooden stick with a sharpened end
- grater
- bucket
- sponge
- piece of cloth
- plywood (when laying tiles on the floor)
Don't ignore the means personal protection. Among them, rubber gloves and safety glasses should be noted. If you have to work with a grout mixture containing cement, then a respirator will not be amiss.
2. Preparation of grout solution
The grout is usually prepared in a dry and clean bucket:
- Initially, about 70-75 percent of the required volume of liquid is poured into the container.
- The dry ingredient is gradually added to the liquid (to water or to a liquid latex additive according to the instructions).
- After all the dry ingredients have been added and thoroughly mixed, the remaining liquid is added in small portions.
You should constantly check the consistency of the resulting mass: slightly less liquid may be used to prepare the grout than indicated in the instructions.
When the grout is ready, it needs to be allowed to sit. 10 minutes is enough. During this period of time, the remaining dry lumps will have time to become saturated with liquid.
After this “infusion,” the grout should be mixed again, but this time so that it becomes completely homogeneous (homogeneous).
3. Applying grout to the seams
You can apply the grout with either a large or small spatula, the main thing is that the grout fits tightly into all the seams Before you start applying grout, you need to make sure that the adhesive on which the tiles were laid is completely dry. It is imperative to remove debris from the seams.
Don’t forget about the dividers between the tiles, which, despite the assurances of some manufacturers, can be left in the seams, it is better to eliminate them. The fact is that by rubbing seams over such “crosses”, you risk ruining the entire appearance of its finish: the grout over the dividers will lie more thinly, acquiring a slightly different color after drying.
Grout can be applied to glazed tiles immediately, otherwise the top and sides of the tile must be sprayed with water.
The grout mixture is applied to the surface of the tile with a trowel, then distributed with a grout float, as if pressing into the seams rather than covering them. The more densely the spaces are filled, the stronger they will be.
Before you start grouting a large area of tile, you should find out how quickly this composition dries. To do this, apply grout first to the surface large plot. Perhaps you will have to continue to do everything in pieces of 1-2 m2, or maybe you will be able to process 9-10 m2 at once.
4. Removing excess grout from tiles
Excess grout is removed with a sponge or soft cloth. After filling the joints, remove excess grout using a trowel. This is the so-called dry removal. After this, the grout is allowed to set and the excess is removed wet. For this procedure, you need a bucket of water and a sponge (preferably with rounded edges).
- At the first stage, use a sponge to remove all excess grout from the cladding surface. Do this with gentle circular movements, if necessary, rinsing the sponge from particles of sand and cement and squeezing it well.
- At the second stage, you need to check all the grout joints to see if they are even. If a defect is detected somewhere, it can be corrected using jointing, a wooden stick with a sharpened end. Trim the edges of the seams with the same sponge, carefully moving it along the seam, removing protrusions and filling the recesses with grout. As a result, all seams should have the same shape and depth
- Then the final cleaning of the lining from grout residues is done: With a clean and wrung-out sponge, slowly and smoothly run along the seam on one side, then on the other. This is how the entire surface of the laid tiles is treated. Don’t forget to rinse the sponge and make sure it doesn’t drag the grout along with it. If this happens, the seams are not aligned very well; there is a lot of grout in them that needs to be removed. After wet cleaning, the seams must be allowed to dry (about 15 minutes), and then the deposits on the tiles remaining from the grout must be removed using gauze or a soft cloth.
5. Final treatment of seams with sealant
A thin, neat layer of transparent sealant will protect your walls and floors from moisture Tile joint sealants contain silicone, varnish or acrylic, which prevent excessive water absorption and stains on the finish. Before applying the sealant, the tiles and grout in the joints must be allowed to dry thoroughly (this takes several days or weeks).
Sealant is applied to the seams strictly following the manufacturer's instructions of this material. It is convenient to use a paint roller when performing work (in the case of covering both seams and tiles) or a small brush (in the case of sealing only the seams). Often small tubes of sealants are sold with a brush at the end (as in the picture).
Careful care of tiles includes regular coating with sealant at intervals of 2-2.5 years. When treating only the seams, any sealant that gets on the tile must be removed immediately.
There are no secondary jobs. Such a seemingly simple operation as grouting tiles, in fact, can ruin the appearance and even cause the destruction of the coating. Let's figure out how to rub the seams so that they don't end up being thrown away expensive materials and hard work.
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Selection of materials for grouting joints between tiles
Before grouting the tile joints, you need to decide on the materials to fill the joints. Because grouting tiles with grout made “on the knee” is a sure way to ruin all the work. At the very least, worsen its results.
Usually, when choosing grout, the main attention is paid to the color. Indeed, this is an important parameter, but far from the only one.
You may need not one, but two types of grout. It is better to fill the seams at the junction of walls and floors, at the junction of equipment, with elastic-plastic grout based on silicone. Conventional cement-based grout is too brittle for places where deformation is possible, and over time it begins to crumble.
In rooms with high humidity It is recommended to use material with antifungal additives.
It is advisable to choose a more highly durable grout for floor tile joints.
Special types of grout, substitutes and homemade compositions
As already mentioned, sometimes grouting compounds with specific properties are required (for example, with increased acid resistance).
Special grouts are usually sold ready-made. As an example: epoxy grouts, the already mentioned silicone, latex, etc.
Typically, working with such compounds requires special care, since when they get on the tiles they leave unsightly marks that can only be washed off with special solvents.
Surprisingly, but grouting tile seams homemade compositions happens in our time.
If you encounter this, the following options are possible.
1. Do the grout yourself. One volume part of decorative cement is mixed with two parts of fine, well-washed quartz sand. This mixture is poured into water, to which 10% of the volume of PVA emulsion has been added to obtain a mixture with the consistency of thick sour cream. The volume of water required is the same as cement. Color as needed.
2. Grout with tile adhesive, adding an equal amount of cement to it. This grout is suitable for utility room floors. Attention: such a composition, once set, is very difficult to clean off the tiles!
When choosing a color, you usually rely only on your taste, but there are enough simple devices, allowing you to significantly narrow the range of choices.
Easy to find on the Internet different kinds color compatibility tables. They will help you eliminate those that are obviously inappropriate. color combinations. And in any self-respecting store selling finishing materials, there is a “fan” of colors - a set of multi-colored stripes held together by a common axis. Combining stripes different colors, You will immediately see how this or that grout will be combined with the tiles.
Preparatory work
Grouting of joints is carried out after polymerization of the tile adhesive, preferably two to three days after, but in any case, not earlier than the next day after installation.
The seams are inspected and cleared of glue and dust. Remains of spacer templates (crosses or staples) are removed from the seams (if any).
Preparing grout, how to prepare grout
Measure into container required quantity water;
add the dry mixture;
let the powder soak in water for a minute and a half;
mix thoroughly.
The composition should have the consistency of thick sour cream.
How to grout seams, grouting
The finished mixture is taken directly from the container onto a rubber spatula and, after the collected portion has ended, the excess mixture is removed by moving the spatula along the seam.
When the mixture “sticks”, that is, has not yet hardened, but has stopped sticking (usually after an hour and a half), wipe the treated area with a dry rag or sponge. If necessary, jointing is performed.
The shape of the seam largely depends on the type of side edges of the tile. If the edges are rectangular, then the seams are usually made flush with the tiles.
Rounded edges dictate depressed seams, but such seams are impractical for floors because they are difficult to clean. When choosing floor tiles, this should be taken into account in advance.
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The very first thing is to ensure moisture resistance of the entire plane. After all, tiles are used to lay surfaces in rooms where there is constantly high humidity or where water flows frequently. Therefore, splashes, fumes, etc. And if the floor is tiles, then the floors are constantly washed. Therefore, water will get under the tile covering.
Secondly, there are no tiles that are perfectly square or have right angles, so there will be gaps at the joints in any case.
Third, the tiles cannot be laid “very close” one to one. There is such a thing as temperature increase. Dense laying leads to deformation of the plane and, as a consequence, “swelling” of the entire “masonry”.
What kind of grout should I use?
First of all, it is necessary to keep in mind the difference between sealant and sealant (grout). Specific grout is used for seams. There are several types of it, and the difference is in the base: it is either cement (with additives) or epoxy. In everyday life, it is better to use cement-based grout. They are easier to work with and cheaper.
How to prepare grout
Be sure to use the manufacturer's recommendation. Different compositions require your own know-how. It is better to purchase the composition in dry form, it is much cheaper. You need to naturally find out what to dilute with: water or latex (liquid). Dry polymer compounds are mixed only with water!
There should not be a lot of water in the grout, otherwise the quality of the entire work will suffer. Grout is added to water, and not vice versa. The resulting composition must be plastic and very easily distributed over the plane.
Stages of work:
- Preparing grout. In addition to what has already been established, you need to know that kneading must be done carefully, not allowing air bubbles to get inside. It will only weaken the effect of the solution;
- Laying out the solution. Using a spatula, the solution is practically pressed into the seam, evenly distributed along the entire length. The hand makes diagonal movements. The task is to fill the inherent vacuums to the maximum. It is more comfortable to work on small area, and not all over the wall at once;
- Wet cleaning of the plane. This is done after the mixture has sufficiently hardened;
- Leveling and smoothing seams. It is made using precisely manufactured jointing.
If there is a strong desire to obtain an imitation of outdated masonry, additional work is carried out.
Video on the topic:
Grouting joints. How to grout ceramic tiles. Video tutorial.
This video demonstrates grouting joints between ceramic tiles on walls. Look if you collected...
Repairs can seem endless if you are “pulling the cat by the tail.” In fact, each stage of work is not so difficult if you approach the matter competently and harmoniously. Grouting joints between tiles also requires this attitude. It is necessary to sand the seams, as this will improve the aesthetic appearance and help hide various cladding defects. If the work is done poorly, you can easily ruin all your work. Therefore, today we turn to the question of how to grout the seams on the tiles so that the kitchen will only delight you with its brand new transformation, and all possible flaws will be veiled as best as possible.
To make it more clear to you, we have compiled today’s material into three main parts:
1. How to grout seams on tiles correctly?
2. How to remove grout?
3. If the grout cracks...
Preparatory work
Grouting should not begin without making sure that the tile adhesive is completely dry. Before performing work, you should also clean the seams themselves from dust, debris and other dirt. Those. The surface for grouting needs to be prepared. Don't forget to remove the dividing crosses. It is extremely undesirable to leave them, because after grouting these places will immediately catch your eye - the grout will lie thicker, and therefore will differ in color from the seams above the dividers.
The side edges of each tile must be wetted with water if you are dealing with unglazed tiles. The fact is that the grout contains moisture, and the unglazed surface tends to absorb it. But you need to wet the edges of the tiles carefully so that moisture does not accumulate in the joints between the tiles, and large drops of water are not visible on the tile itself. Otherwise excess moisture will damage the grout, causing it to crack over time. Usually, manufacturers write all necessary instructions on the grout packaging.
If glazed tiles were used in the kitchen, you can grout the seams on the tiles immediately after the glue has dried. There is no need to wet the tile edges.
How to grout seams on tiles correctly?
Before grouting ceramic tiles, you need to prepare everything in advance necessary tools. So, you will need:
Grout
- rubber spatula or rubberized roller, grout bag
- respirator (it is only needed for cement grouting)
- a piece of plywood (if you are grouting tiles on the floor)
- sealant (we’ll also tell you why it’s needed)
- small brush or paint roller
- sponge and clean cloth
- bucket and water
- protective equipment (glasses and rubber gloves)
Progress
There are two ways to grout tile joints: with a rubber spatula or using a grout bag. Choose the method that is convenient for you.
Important: The tiles must be clean! There should be no dust, no dirt, no glue residue on it. The seams between the tiles should also be cleaned! And the tile must be dry before grouting.
How to grout tile joints using a spatula or grater?
Look at the packaging of the purchased grout. It should indicate the required proportions for diluting the grout (don't forget to check the expiration date). Carry out all manipulations according to the instructions (you have prepared a bucket for this). The finished grout is suitable for use for only 20 minutes. So don't breed too much. The grout is distributed using a grout float (choose one with porous rubber glued on) or a rubber spatula. Now, using a spatula or float, place a mound of grout on the tile and begin spreading. The tool should be held at an angle of 30 degrees to the tile and grout should be applied with diagonal movements. Try not to smear the grout over the surface of the tile, but rather rub it into the seams, pressing firmly. If the seam is filled tightly with the substance, then move on to the next one. Your task is to thoroughly fill all the voids and corners around the tiles with mortar.
When the first 5 minutes have passed after filling the joint with grout, wipe the tiles with a damp cloth. It should not be too dry or too wet. Water can erode the grout or change the color of the grout.
Don't start grouting a large area at once! Select a work area of 1 meter square and gradually move further. This will give you an idea of how quickly the grout will set before you can start removing the excess.
How to grout tiles using a grout bag?
Typically, a grout bag is used on surfaces that will be difficult to clean later. A grout bag is a lot like a pastry bag. First, a special tip is put on the bag, the width of which is equal to the seam between the tiles. Then grout is added to it, which is squeezed directly into the seam through the tip.
Start filling the tile joint from top to bottom. Those. placed the tip in the upper part, began to squeeze out the grout, moving the hand down, and then, in the same way, squeezing out the substance, moving the hand up. And so on until the seam is tightly filled with mortar. It is very important to do this work not around each tile separately, but along the entire length of the seam. Start with horizontal seams first, and then move on to vertical ones.
Another nuance of working with a grout bag is to compact the dense layer after setting with a smooth metal tube with a diameter larger than the width of the tile joint or joint. Those. When you have filled the seam and the grout has set a little, it needs to be compacted. Take this moment into account! Therefore, you need to squeeze the grout into the seam a little more so that after compacting you don’t get a hole. You can use the end of a toothbrush instead of a tube. Try to keep all seams looking the same.
It takes about half an hour for the compacted grout to completely set in the seam. After this, you can begin to remove the excess. How this is done is described below.
How to remove grout?
Grout is removed in three stages!
Stage one - dry removal
When all the seams have been grouted, take a float with porous rubber glued on. You will use it to remove excess grout from the tiles. Hold the tool at an angle of 90 degrees in relation to the tile. Start moving the float diagonally relative to the tile joints. You cannot move the trowel horizontally or vertically, as there is a high risk of damaging the worn seams. Then you will have to add grout to them again. Having removed all excess grout, wait for it to completely set and only then proceed with wet removal.
Stage two - wet grout removal
The grout in the tile joints sets and hardens much longer than the grout on the tiles. If in the first case the time can stretch up to half an hour, then in the second only a few minutes may be enough. To make sure that the grout in the seams is completely dry, you need to heavily moisten the sponge with water and wipe a small area of the seam with it. If the grout is pulled by the sponge, it means it is not completely dry. We'll have to wait some more. Wet removal begins only after the grout in the tile joints has completely dried.
Then take a sponge with rounded edges, wet it with water and begin to carefully move in a circular motion over the tile, gently matching the seams. This is how, gradually, all excess particles of sand and cement will be removed. Don't forget to rinse the sponge and change the water in the bucket. Remember that water can wash away the grout in the joints. So don't overdo it. Leave the seams to dry for 25 minutes.
Stage three - remove grout residues with acid-containing products
After wet removal of grout from the tile, you may be left with a small white coating on tiles or hardened grout stains that could not be removed with water. To get rid of these defects, use acid-containing products. For example, Deterdek or Litokol.
If you tiled the floor, then for better drying, cover the tiles with plywood.
The sealant will help the tiles stay beautiful for a long time.
We think that a lot is already clear from the title itself. The sealant helps prevent stains on ceramic tiles and prevents grout lines from absorbing excess moisture. The most common series of sealants are based on silicone, varnish or acrylic. Choose based on the type of tile and grout you used.
Cover the tiles with sealant only when the joints are dry (the drying time for the grout is indicated in the instructions) and the ceramic tiles. Therefore, make sure the surface is clean first. The sealant can be used to cover the entire tile or just the seams. In the first case, you will need a small paint roller, in the second, a small brush. If you only apply sealant to the seams, then immediately remove any excess that gets on the tiles.
You may need to seal the tiles again in a couple of years. The actions are still the same.
What type of grout should I choose for tile joints?
All grouts can be divided into two main categories: cement-based or epoxy resin-based. When choosing grout for tiles, always read the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. For example, silicone seal in your case, it will not be suitable for tile joints. Its purpose is to fill the voids between tiles when laying on another surface. Be careful!
Cement based grout
Sold both in the form of a dry mixture, which should be diluted, and in already ready-made version. You understand that everything that is ready-made costs more. Cement-based grouts differ from each other by additives - industrial cement, dry hardener, latex mixture. They should only be used in special means protection - respirator, safety glasses and rubber gloves. Take special care of your eyes and hands. Cement grout can be hard on your lungs and skin, causing inflammation and eye irritation.
Epoxy resin grout
This type of grout requires wide joints. For example, tile joints less than 6 mm wide and tiles up to 12 mm thick are not suitable for epoxy grout. It simply cannot penetrate there, since it has a rather viscous consistency.
If the grout is cracking
It may happen that after a couple of weeks the grout suddenly begins to develop cracks. And there are several reasons for this:
1. The grout dilution technology specified by the manufacturer was not followed. Those. you added too much water. Therefore, when excess moisture began to evaporate, the grout layer began to sag - hence the cracks (the grout mass in the tile joints decreased).
2. The tile itself may also absorb water from the grout.
3. The grout instructions always indicate the width of the joints for which it is intended. If you ignore this point, then the appearance of cracks is inevitable.
4. Unleveled surface for tiling.
Options to correct the situation:
1. If you used white grout, then carefully scratch the grout in defective places with an ordinary construction knife and apply a new layer over the old layer.
2. If you used colored grout, then the method described above will not work. The new color can mix with the old layer and give a different shade. Therefore, you will have to completely remove the grout from the seam and fill it with new one. Removing grout from all tile joints is very expensive. There is a high risk of damaging the tiles. Therefore, do this only in cracked areas.
Important!!! If you do not pay attention to the cracks, they will only expand over time. Therefore, it is better not to let things take their course.
Which grout should I choose for tiles?
The color of the grout plays an important role. For example, white grout in combination with dark tiles will emphasize the geometry of the installation, but in the opposite situation, it will smooth it out. Dark grout fades over the years, and white grout becomes covered with a yellow coating (you can try scrubbing it off with a melamine sponge).
To receive not only quality after renovation, but also a pleasant appearance of ceramic-trimmed surfaces is an understandable desire of apartment owners. Not only the appearance and overall aesthetics of the room, but also the service life of the coating as a whole will depend on how to grout the seams on the tiles on the floor. Therefore, it is worth approaching the choice of the type of joint filler and processing technique with attention to all details.
What does grout do?
Joint filler plays several roles.
- Protects the base of the coating ( adhesive composition) from destruction due to exposure to moisture.
- Grout for floor tiles does not allow accumulation of garbage.
- Joint filler, matched to the color of the surface, in contrast, matching the surrounding walls - will allow you to achieve the desired aesthetics.
- Grout for floor tiles, as well as for wall tiles, is used as a damper. During seasonal temperature fluctuations, the coating configuration changes, including the distance between individual laying elements.
- The mixture for filling joints has partial vapor permeability. Moisture can circulate naturally.
- Grout for tiles on the bathroom floor plays the role of an anti-fungal and anti-mold agent.
The list can go on. For example, mention that floor tile grout acts as an effective connector, improving the overall distribution of mass over the surface when walking. But it is already clear that you need to grout the seams carefully and correctly, guaranteeing a good result.
Types of grout mixtures
Based on the type of main component, joint filler is divided into several classes. Correctly chosen grouting of tile joints on the floor or walls will create a wear-resistant and durable filling that will last as long as the main coating. Based on the type of main ingredient, the compositions are divided into:
- cement based on Portland cement. The mixture is very common; within the class there are grouts with the addition of various components that give the joints moisture resistance, special strength or increase the degree of viscosity;
- By choosing silicone grout for tile joints on the floor or walls, you can guarantee waterproofing and completely neutralize vapor penetration. This is especially important in bathrooms and toilets, as well as rooms with high humidity;
- Epoxy compounds have complex characteristics. The created seam is durable, has low moisture permeability, and fungus and mold do not grow in it - a good option For bathroom. Grouting joints of floor tiles epoxy mixture will last a long time, since the composition forms a durable structure that is not subject to cracks.
- Latex composition is used very often. According to its main characteristics, it is similar to a cement-containing mixture, but it is plastic and easier to work with. In addition, latex grout for floor tiles or other surfaces comes in a variety of colors.
Tools you will need for the job
When considering the question of how to grout tiles on a floor or wall, it is worthwhile to dwell in detail on the tools used. The final result and its quality depend on their choice.
For quick and convenient work on filling joints between tiles on horizontal or vertical surface you will need:
- device for jointing. This can be a plastic or wooden stick, sharpened on one side;
- a container or container for mixing a solution, a small volume - we will discuss later why the composition for grouting between tiles on a floor or wall is prepared in small portions;
- rubber spatula, the size is selected based on the geometry of the ceramic elements: the smaller the dimensions, the more modest the width of the spatula should be;
- large foam sponge, brush;
- large bucket for water;
- construction mortar mixer or drill with an appropriate attachment.
From extremely useful tools You can note the bag for processing seams. Based on its design, it is easy to understand how to grout tiles on a floor or wall quickly and efficiently. The bag looks like culinary syringe. It has a spout and a solution container.
The process of filling seams looks like this:
- the spout is placed in the gap between the tiles and pressed in with force;
- by squeezing the bag the solution is squeezed out;
- By moving the spout, you can quickly go through the seams, working at good speed.
The order of how to grout seams on tiles on the floor or wall using a bag is as follows: first go through horizontal lines, then vertical ones. When squeezing out, excess solution inevitably forms. Grouting floor tiles or wall covering It will go faster if you let the mixture set for 30 minutes - then the partially hardened composition is removed more carefully.
How to prepare the mixture
After considering how to choose grout for certain conditions, you can move on to the question of its preparation. You will need to follow several rules:
- No need to cook large portion mortar - it sets quickly enough both inside the seams and in the container. Remove excess and clean the surface of the coating before the grout hardens.
- Thorough mixing allows you to obtain a plastic and easy-to-use mass. But you need to make sure that there are no air bubbles in the solution.
Based on the basic rules, we will formulate a procedure for using tile grout. It is like this:
- a little spills into the container ready mixture from packaging;
- using a construction mixer or a drill attachment, adding water and kneading the solution;
- During such processing, air enters the composition. Therefore, you need to pause for about 5-8 minutes between adding a portion of water and kneading to get rid of them.
The process continues until the mixture becomes slightly thicker than sour cream, but does not crumble into lumps like cottage cheese. When mixing completely manually, there is no need to pause for the solution to settle. In this case, you will have to ensure that the mixture is uniform in both color and consistency.
Surface preparation
It is important not only to know how to use tile grout, but also how to prepare the base, since the durability of the grout and its appearance depend on this. Before you start you will need:
- thoroughly clean the space between the tiles from mortar and debris, forming cracks of uniform depth;
- process the future seam antifungal agent;
- wet the seam in depth with water, using a small amount of liquid.
It’s worth talking about the last stage in more detail. Ceramic tiles with matte surface has the ability to draw moisture from the grout solution. This can lead to cracking and spalling.
Therefore, when working with glazed ceramics, it is enough to moisten the seam with a small amount of water, and in the case of matte tiles, you will need to use a brush and a spray bottle to treat not only the gap, but also the side part of the laying element, capturing the front surface.
You need to work quickly with matte tiles to prevent the solution from drying out. During work, parts of the seams of the installation being processed, if necessary, are additionally sprayed from a spray bottle. If it is clear that the solution dries very quickly, it is also sprayed with a small amount of water to achieve partial hardening within 30 minutes.
Seam filling
Let's look at how to use tile grout for its intended purpose. The technology for filling seams looks like this:
- If you are processing a laying of small tiles, it is more convenient to work with a rubber spatula. They take a small amount of putty and forcefully press it into the seam until it is filled;
- when working on laying large tiles, for example, on the floor, you can use a construction rubbing trowel, plastic or wooden. A lot of solution is poured onto it at once, it is pressed with force into the seam remaining on the tool - it is moved to the edge and the process is repeated in the next section. You need to move the trowel at an angle of 30 degrees relative to the direction of the gap.
During work, the grout may sag into the seam. Then the process of pressing the solution is repeated and this is done until the composition confidently fills the gap between the tiles.
A special note on processing volumes. In one stage it is recommended to mash no more than 1-2 square meters area. This ensures that the putty will not have time to set and you can carefully and accurately process the seams
Formation of the seam surface
There is a common proverb: repairmen are divided into only two types, some make a seam with flat surface almost flush with the tiles, the second ones create grout with a concave bottom, the remaining divisions are contrived. Let's look at how to get the job done in both ways.
- To make a seam with a smooth surface, use a foam sponge. The first pass with plywood, a board, or a flat-pointed plastic or wooden stick removes excess grout. The second, foam rubber, is used to evenly deepen the seam, leaving it even. This kind of work requires skill - the solution accumulates on the sponge and makes it difficult to control the quality of the treatment.
- To make a seam with concave surface, it is convenient to use a piece of cable insulation with a diameter close to or larger than the width of the slot. They are carried along the line of putty, pressing the mark. Then use a sponge to remove excess solution from the sides. This technique allows you to get a good result even with little skill.
The main requirement is that the surface of the tile must be higher than that of the grout layer. Different seam configurations allow, among other things, to form and complement the overall aesthetics of the coating.
Surface cleaning
There are opinions that it is necessary to clean the tiles after 24 hours from the moment the joints are grouted. In this case, it is recommended to use solvents, mustard powder, and polishing attachments on a drill. These are understandable requirements, since within 24 hours the solution will completely harden and will be extremely difficult to remove.
You can clean the tiles 2-3 hours after grouting. You need to work carefully, without much pressure and excessive moisture. In this case, clean, soft rags and sponges are used, which must be constantly rinsed and squeezed vigorously. After the tiles are cleaned, the seams are sprayed with an extremely small amount of water, from a spray bottle, from a great distance.
Once again, it is worth emphasizing: if cleaning the tiles is carried out a couple of hours after grouting, it is highly not recommended to apply pressure to the partially hardened seam. Its surface may be damaged. Also, it is important not to use a lot of moisture so that the solution does not flow.
Another tip is implemented the next day. It is necessary to carefully examine the condition of the seams and, if necessary, repeat the grouting process. Or simply treat them with an antifungal agent. There is no comment on the quality that can be achieved with attention to detail.
Video on how to choose grout, prepare it and what tools you need:
