IN country house or at the dacha, the “baby” stove is an excellent alternative for people who do not have the necessary skills in stove construction, but want to include such a unit in their interior. To manufacture the structure you will need a minimum of materials and relevant knowledge.
Characteristic features of the stove
Advantages of Malyutka stoves
The “crumb” stove has a number of advantages over other types of structures for heating a room. It is not surprising that many users install this type of fireplace in their homes. Advantages of building a “baby” stove with your own hands:
- Small area. It is the owners of small country houses who most often choose a mini oven.
- A simple construction scheme. Even a person with minimal builder skills can easily disassemble the drawings and independently lay the foundation and structure of the furnace.
- Economical. The device does not require the preparation of a large amount of firewood for the winter, and the consumption of materials for heating the stove is relatively small. In addition to wood, it is allowed to use other types of fuel, such as coal.
- There is no need for a strong foundation.
Flaws
For this design, only a heat-resistant type of brick is needed. However, in addition to the mass positive aspects, the “crumb” oven also has disadvantages:
- Insufficient heating. The heating stove can fill a room of up to 35 square meters with heat.
- Limited materials. Only suitable for bookmarking the device separate species bricks resistant to high temperatures.
Heating hob“baby” has its prototypes among other types of designs (and the Swedish one).
What materials are used?
The “baby” stove is made of a special type of bricks that are resistant to high temperatures. Characteristics of materials:
- Fireclay brick. An indispensable item for laying the combustion surface of the stove.
- Private. It is not suitable as a facing material, but most of the structure is laid out with this brick, so the consumption for it is maximum.
- Facing. Suitable for finishing the front part of the fireplace, you can choose your own color.
To build, you will need to purchase a fire door. For installation, you need to purchase the appropriate oven elements, without which the structure will not function fully. In addition to bricks, the work also includes (approximate list of basic auxiliary materials):
- grate;
- combustion door;
- valve;
- blower door;
- burner stove (cast iron);
- clay solution.
How to do it yourself?
Preparatory stage of construction
At the preparation stage, you must have the following tools available:
- welding machine;
- roulette;
- bayonet shovel;
- grinder;
- waterproofing;
- rod;
- water and sand;
- solution.
After determining the location for the building, you need to lay the foundation for it. The first thing to start with preparatory stage- determining the location of the future fireplace. It is important to position it correctly to avoid energy loss. The walls of the structure are not located near the outer walls of the room, but placing the fireplace in the center of the room is also not recommended. Not in all cases, a “baby” brick kiln is built simultaneously with the building. Sometimes you have to lay the foundation on already finished floors. If the house uses a “warm floor” system, you have to lift the entire screed. After the place for the stove has been prepared, a hole up to 35 cm deep is dug and completely covered with waterproofing. Next, the reinforcement is laid and the solution is poured.
Step-by-step instructions for carrying out work
Brick is the priority material for laying furnaces. A small or large “tiny” stove, although it has simple construction drawings, but detailed diagram the order of work will be useful in any case. Step by step instructions:
Before starting the ordering, the foundation is waterproofed with roofing felt. - A layer of waterproofing is applied to the foundation. It is recommended to use roofing felt.
- The order starts from the corners, three rows for each.
- The verticality and horizontality of the plumb line are measured.
- The laying of the first row (solid layer) must be perfectly accurate.
- A thin layer of clay is applied to a row of bricks and three rows are placed around the perimeter. At the same time, the door is installed. Everything is done quickly and accurately.
- A steel wire is inserted into the fastening area, the ends of which are twisted and wound in order.
- Visible defects are eliminated using an angle grinder.
- Grate bars are installed.
- The next row includes the use of fireclay fire bricks and installing a firebox door wrapped in asbestos cord.
- All subsequent rows are laid flat. The ordering is completed with the expectation that there is room for a slight backward shift.
- It's already covered installed door and the stove is installed. It is recommended to buy a cast iron version for cooking.
- The last stage is to finish the outer walls of the oven. It is used most often in such cases of whitewashing. Before starting work, it is recommended to protect all walls in the house from dirt, since removing stains from whitewash is problematic.
Cooking oven "Swedish" and "baby Swede"In order for the device to ultimately turn out exactly the way the user imagines it, you need to take time to study the instructions.
Cooking oven "Swedish"
After listening to the wishes of the owner of the house and estimating the volume of the room where the stove was supposed to be installed, I offered a choice of two versions of the Swedish stove: with a hood or a “three-way stove”. I showed a photo of my stoves, and they chose a Swedish stove with a hood.
The foundation for the furnace was poured that same fall, and the purchase of basic materials and equipment began in the spring, in early May. I purchased a furnace, ash and cleaning doors, a two-burner hob, two valves, three grates and Kemma brand bricks1. I always advise my clients to use stoves for laying ceramic brick this particular brand, as this is a guarantee of the durability of any properly built stove.
By the time I delivered all the materials to the work site, the construction team had already installed an insulating screen on the wall of the house bordering the furnace. This screen is a light wall-mounted frame structure from standard metal profiles(they are usually used for installing plasterboard panels). The space between them is filled with mineral wool slabs, and galvanized steel sheets are attached on top of the slabs. The purpose of the screen is simple - a steel sheet reflects infrared radiation, and a mineral wool slab acts as a heat insulator, protecting the wall of the house from direct heat.
During execution preparatory work Some changes had to be made to the design of the furnace. The fact is that the previous builders, who began to build the house, did not provide ventilation in the foundation, which is why it was constantly damp and damp under the floor. Therefore, we decided to use natural traction in smoke ducts stoves for underground ventilation. This in itself is nonsense, since using a chimney for ventilation reduces the temperature flue gases and leads to excessive consumption of firewood, but in our case it was impossible to correct the builders’ mistake in any other way.
To organize forced ventilation underground, while pouring the foundation for the furnace, we had to lay a plastic (PVC) pipe in it, which plays the role of a ventilation duct for the underground. The rows show that in rows from 1 to 5 a special widening was made in the masonry, where this plastic pipe from the underground, and in the 2nd row there is a damper that allows you to control the draft and intensity of ventilation. During the test fire, I checked the presence of draft in ventilation duct— everything worked out as planned.
We lay out the oven in accordance with the order. There are no special tricks in individual rows. After installing the hob, we build a cooking chamber above it, open on both sides. Unlike the Swedish stoves that I built before, here I decided to make the ceiling above the cooking chamber in the form of an arched vault, without supporting corners or any other metal.
The procedure for constructing the vault is usual - first we lay out all the side walls (up to the level of the 18th row), and then install a circle above the hob, the front edge of which should protrude beyond the front wall by about 2 cm. It is best to fix the circle on stacks of bricks and set according to the level, placing wedges under its edges.
On the right and left we cut the edges of the bricks adjacent to the arched vault at the desired angle. When laying out the vault, between the bricks installed on the edge, we place pieces of brick that wedge them so that the gaps are the same everywhere, and then we fill the seams with mortar. To do this, it is better to use a special heat-resistant mixture with the addition of cement, then the vault will be more durable and resistant.
Above, above the arched vault of the cooking chamber, we place a cap with cleaning doors. True, in this oven its height had to be made a couple of rows less than usual. They weren't allowed to raise the cap any higher. load-bearing beams ceiling. The pipe also had to be shifted slightly and turned 90° to get around the floor beams, observing all the rules and fire safety requirements. As it should be, I raised the pipe above the ridge, and on top, to protect it from rain and snow, I laid out a “house”. The pipe with the “house” turned out to be original and unusual, which both the owner and all her neighbors really liked. Tatyana even came up with a name for this “house” on the pipe - “Teremok”.
After drying, the test fire was successful, without any comments.
Arrangement of the Swedish stove
Little Swede stove
Swedes can be called the most popular stoves. This is primarily due to their versatility. The structure of the Swede includes a cast iron stove on which it is possible to cook food, and through a complex of chimneys that penetrate the mass of the stove, it is evenly heated during the combustion period, and then slowly releases the accumulated heat to the room.
The stove is usually located in a cooking chamber - open or closed with doors. Closing the doors after heating promotes better heat retention, which allows food to simmer in the cooking chamber. Often the stove is also supplemented with an oven, in which you can bake pies, bake meat, fish or vegetables. The Swedish can be used for drying mushrooms, apples, and herbs.
In front of a regular stove with a shield, a Swede - like heating stove- has a significant advantage. With the same occupied area, it has a more developed convective zone; smoke circulation is located not only at the base of the oven and on the side, but also above the cooking chamber. Therefore, its efficiency and heat transfer are much higher.
The Swedish stove can be placed in any part of the heated room, but the most convenient place for it is in the opening of the wall or partition between the room and the kitchen. The main thing is that chimney came out of the roof closer to the ridge. This will improve draft in the furnace and make it easier to waterproof around the pipe.
The Swede can be heated with wood, peat and coal - depending on the design of the firebox. But to transfer this oven to gas fuel not recommended. Even with minor equipment malfunctions, gas can accumulate in smoke ducts and hoods and explode during the next fire. In practice, such cases have happened.
Fig 1. General view
An example of a small Swede is a stove (Fig. 1) with plan dimensions of 89x63.5 cm and a height of 189 cm. The convective zone of this stove is successive channel smoke circulations (chimneys). Their compact arrangement creates conditions for uniform heating of the entire furnace mass. Horizontal chimneys are located below the ash pan, at the very base of the stove, and above the cooking chamber, at the very top of the stove. After two hours of combustion (the generally accepted firing mode for heating and cooking stoves), the entire outer surface of the stove is heated. Despite its small size, the stove heats a room of 25 m2.
The stove can be heated in summer and winter modes, which are regulated by valves 1 and 2 (Fig. 2). In summer mode, both smoke valves are open. When switching to winter mode summer firebox valve 2 must be closed, leaving only the main valve 1 open. Hot flue gases, changing their direction, will enter the lower smoke circulation 8. By moving counterclockwise around the perimeter, the gases will warm up its lower mass, then enter the lifting channel (well) 13. After heating the well, the flue gases will enter the upper smoke circuits 9. By moving clockwise around the perimeter of the furnace, they will warm up its upper mass and only after that will enter the chimney.
The oven is equipped with a single-burner cast iron stove. The oven design does not include an oven. In Fig. 1 shown general view Swedish, and in Fig. 2 - sections of the furnace and its order.
The first two rows of the stove are placed with small protrusions. It does appearance more interesting. The 1st row is laid out solid, and on the 2nd row the lower chimneys begin, which are covered with two rows of bricks (on the 4th and 5th rows). In rows 6 and 7, a blower is formed, above which, on the 8th row, a grate is installed.
Starting from the 7th row, part of the masonry is made with fireclay bricks. The firebox in the stove has a height of 40 cm. This is enough to maintain normal combustion of wood. This firebox is not suitable for using coal and peat.
Above the stove installed on the 13th row, the cooking chamber begins. Its height is 42 cm: quite enough to easily place and remove a pan or even a bucket of water from the stove. To install the slab, quarters are cut out in the bricks on which it lies. Temperature gaps are left between the edge of the slab and the brick.
A valve is installed in the ceiling of the cooking chamber (on the 21st row) to ventilate it. On the same row there is also a summer shutter. Above the ceiling of the cooking chamber there are horizontal chimneys that help heat the upper part of the stove. The main valve of the furnace is located on the 27th row.
Procedure for constructing a furnace
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About quality brick oven every owner's dream country houses. But the fact is that the design of most models is quite complex, and it is extremely difficult to build them without having skills in the stove business. But there are also options (for example, a small oven) that require a minimum of time and the manufacture of which does not require specialized knowledge and skills. So, today we will tell you how to build a baby oven with your own hands.
Design features
Square future design is 40 cm2 Brick will be used in production, laying will be done flat or “on edge”. Despite its small dimensions, the tiny oven will effectively hold and release thermal energy. What is characteristic is that the foundation is in in this case There is no need to build it at all, since the weight of the device will be insignificant. All you need is a floor made of thick boards, securely fixed with joists.
Pay attention! The design described in the article can easily replace a traditional potbelly stove, but its functionality will be many times higher.
The baby can also have a cooking function (if there is cast iron stove) or heating (there must be a chimney pipe). Moreover, such a stove can be used as a fireplace, since it also has a smoke tooth.
You should also pay attention to the high speed of laying: for example, if you start construction work in the morning, then by the evening, most likely, you will already be busy performing test heating. At first, it is recommended to use paper and wood chips for kindling, since due to the strong temperature difference on freshly hardened masonry mortar Cracks may form, which, in turn, can lead not only to smoke, but also to additional air suction. In short, to load regular logs into the oven, you must first wait until the solution is completely dry (often this takes no more than seven days, although much depends on the climate and humidity in the room).
Main advantages of the design
- Small dimensions (total area - 40 square cm), because of which the design has gained immense popularity among owners of country houses.
- The possibility of using exclusively red brick during the work process, if in the future ordinary firewood will be used as fuel (neither silicate nor ordinary brick is suitable, since it is susceptible to high temperatures).
- In the case of the most primitive stove design, the work can be done with your own hands, using improvised means. Heating channels are not provided here, since their function will be performed by the fuel cap. Moreover, the baby can be installed in the wall, which will significantly save free space.
- Thanks to the efficiency of the stove, you will not need to prepare large volumes of firewood for the winter.
- There is no need for a foundation, because a DIY baby oven weighs little.
- However, the device is capable of heating a room up to 25-35 square meters. In autumn or spring, when the temperature is above zero, you need to heat it only once a day, in winter - twice.
Video - Factory small metal stove (Feringer)
About the safe location of the structure
To check the corners of the structure while working, use plumb lines made using nails nailed to the ceiling. This way you will be able to determine as accurately as possible how to position the pipe. after that, proceed to create an opening in the ceiling. It is important that the fire cutting parameter be taken into account. If you follow this safety parameter, the distance between the chimney and the wooden components will be at least 250 millimeters. Otherwise - if for some reason this is impossible to do - create a partition using several layers of burlap (the thickness should be 10-20 millimeters). Pre-soak the burlap with a clay-based solution. Place metal sheets on top of the material.
Pay attention! You should never, under any circumstances, ignore fire safety requirements! Before starting the oven for the first time, make sure that its operation will not lead to unauthorized ignition. If you doubt your abilities, it is better to entrust the work to experienced specialists.
For added safety, securely fasten a sheet of steel below, in front of the combustion chamber. According to many years of experience, a small stove can heat the temperature in a room with a volume of 30 cubic meters to 20 degrees (if the temperature outside is about minus twenty), using only 11-12 kilograms of dry wood. Of course, the fact that the ceilings in this building are double is taken into account, as well as window frames, and the walls are properly insulated. However, the results are truly impressive and they only apply to the first heating. In the future, to achieve a similar result, only 5 kilograms of the same fuel will be required.
Video - Firing a small stove
Now - directly to production!
Construction of a baby oven: a step-by-step guide
The procedure itself consists of two important stages– preparation and, in fact, construction. Let's take a closer look at each of the stages.
Stage one. Preparatory activities>
First you should prepare all the materials that will be used in construction. In reality, there are not as many of them as it might seem at first glance.
Step one. Consumables
Everything that is needed to build a small oven is indicated in the table below.
Table No. 1. Materials
| № |
Name |
Quantity |
|
Red brick |
60 units |
|
|
Gate valve |
1 unit |
|
|
Fire brick |
37 units |
|
|
Hob made of cast iron |
1 unit |
|
|
Clay mortar |
20 liters |
|
|
Fire door |
1 unit |
|
|
Blower door |
1 unit |
|
|
grate |
1 unit |
Step two. Required equipment
Table No. 2. Equipment
| Tool |
Purpose (what will it be used for) |
|
|
It will be used to level and apply the working solution. In addition, the seams will be trimmed using a trowel. |
|
|
Everything is simple here - the tool is needed for measurements. |
|
|
This tool is required for sifting and chopping bricks during work. |
|
|
It is required to monitor straightness and levelness brickwork(you need to place a building level on the tool). |
|
|
With its help, as we just said, the masonry is checked. |
|
|
Controls vertical angles and planes of brickwork |
Now that everything you need is ready, you can start building a baby oven with your own hands.
How to make a waste oil stove
Previously, we talked about how to make your own oven that runs on used machine oil; in addition to this article, we advise you to read this information
Stage two. Order
First, do a little preparation work surface. The algorithm of necessary actions is given below.
Step 1. Where you plan to build the baby, lay insulating material dimensions 53x78 centimeters (such material can be, for example, PET film, glassine or roofing felt).
Step 2. A sand “pillow” 10 millimeters thick is poured on top of the prepared litter. The sand is well leveled.
Step 3. The first row of bricks is laid on top of the sand (dry, that is, without fastening), which includes 12 units. This row is leveled using a level to ensure maximum horizontalness.
Step 4. On top of the laid bricks thin layer a clay-based solution is applied, and only then the door for the blower is installed. It is important to wrap this door in advance with moistened asbestos cardboard (or, alternatively, asbestos cord). Then the door is secured and the laying out of the next row begins.
Step 5. The next row is laid out similarly to the first, still using red brick.
Step 6. But the third row is laid out using refractory bricks. A grate is laid on top of this row. It is important that this grate is located directly above the blower after the formation of the row is completed.
Step 7. When laying the fourth row, the bricks are laid “on edge”. A special stand is installed inside the chimney pipe, which will later serve us as internal partition. As for the rear wall of the structure, it is laid (without using mortar), but so that each brick from the previously laid row No. 4 protrudes slightly outward.
Step 8. Next, install the door for the combustion chamber. Before installation begins, it should be wrapped with a couple of turns of asbestos cord, but at the same time, which is very important, it is required that it can still be opened both from below and from above. The door is fastened with wire and fixed (only for a while) with a pair of bricks - one brick is behind it, the second on it, and the door itself is placed on top.
Step 9. After this, brick row No. 5 is laid out. Here the products are laid flat, as if along the perimeter of the previous row.
Step 10. The baby oven continues to be built with its own hands, now you should proceed to row No. 7. Here the bricks also lie flat (you should start with 3/4 in order to connect with the previous row). It is also important that the back part is a pair of bricks that are laid edgewise.
Step 11. The eighth row will close the fire door (it ends with a pair of bricks laid on top). For its laying, only beveled brick is used, and it is important that it hangs over the combustion chamber. This is explained by the fact that the flame in this case will move closer to the center of the burner (it is located on the hob) when the baby is used as a fireplace, that is, with the door open.
Step 12. The ninth row should be moved back a little so that the door is supported in the open position. Before you start laying bricks, a moistened asbestos cord is laid on the surface - in principle, it will ensure the tightness of the joints between the surfaces and the cast iron slab. It is important that the slab is not laid directly on the clay due to different indicators thermal expansion of these materials (we are talking about cast iron and clay).
Step 13. When laying the tenth row, the construction of the chimney begins, which should, over time, seem to expand towards the rear. At the same time, the design of the small stove is also taken into account - the fact is that it will not allow the installation of a superstructure made of brick due to this very expansion. During its creation, the center of gravity of the entire furnace as a whole will be shifted. For this reason, a top pipe is already installed or, as an option, a top-type product made of light metal.
Step 15. After this, a chimney pipe is placed in the formed quarter - it must be connected to the light iron pipe. And if the pipe moves somewhat to the side, then you need to make an overlap made in the form of three rows of bricks.
Step 16. The knockout bricks are removed, the lower part of the chimney pipe is cleaned of moisture and dirt that penetrated inside during installation work.
Step 17. After this, the almost finished little stove is whitewashed.
Pay attention! Experts advise adding blue and milk to the mixture that will be used for whitewashing. The fact is that otherwise the surface of the structure will turn yellow over time.
Step 18. At the end, the lower part of the heating device is edged by nailing the baseboard. Moreover, this simple step will allow you to prevent sand from spilling out from under the body.
Video - making a small oven for 9 thousand rubles
As a conclusion. About the main functions
A do-it-yourself baby oven can perform not only a decorative function - this design quite suitable for more classical purposes. And the most striking proof of this is the fact that recent years the popularity of this type of stove has grown several times, and it is increasingly used in suburban areas. But why the little one? Let's try to find out.
- Often country houses small, and therefore heating device they should also be small. Despite its lightness and small size, the little one copes well with heating the premises, and at a high level.
- As a rule, people live in dachas for a short time, but sometimes they stay there for a very long time. Of course they will need food. We have not eaten raw food for many centuries, therefore, for cooking you will need an oven and a hob. And all this is provided for in the design of the baby stove.
- Finally, the third reason for the design’s significant popularity is its cost-effectiveness. We all know how difficult it is to acquire a large amount of firewood for summer cottage. Often only tree trimmings are available, as well as various building materials that can be burned. For this reason special attention focuses on fuel economy. And the little one is not too demanding on the volume of firewood.
That's all, now you know how to build a baby oven with your own hands. Actually, that's all, good luck in your work and, of course, have a warm winter!
The temperature in this compartment can remain at the same level for a long time. To monitor temperature fluctuations, you can place a special thermometer with heat-resistant glass on the door. Sash drying chamber attached to metal frame. If desired, the hinged door can be replaced with an L-shaped flap.
The upper drying chamber is presented without a flap, although such a part can be installed on it if necessary. This should be thought out in advance and a metal plate should be inserted to secure the damper between the side bricks. It is not recommended to cover the walls of the drying chambers with plaster: simply covering the seams is enough. You can make the Potapov stove higher by laying two additional rows of bricks after levels 18 and 19.
The design of the “Malyutka” device is quite simple. You can fold it yourself at home. This will require minimal construction skills, but usually even novice craftsmen can get this compact stove right the first time and without any flaws. "Baby" is suitable for anyone solid fuel, but if you intend to use coal, peat or dung, be prepared for annual cleaning of flues clogged with soot. Such a stove can only be heated in winter.
Repairing the structure is quite simple, because it does not have horizontal channels, and the vertical one has a cleaning door.
Foundation
For this small oven you will need a base 5-10 cm wider than the size of the future side elements and double waterproofing. The structure must communicate with the wall chimney through a root or cap pipe.
So, to build a foundation you will need to dig a pit to the depth of solid ground. Then it is filled with broken bricks and rubble stones, and the top is filled with M-400 cement in a ratio of 1:5. The base should be completed 1-2 rows to the floor level.
Functional Features
The cooking chamber in the Malyutka oven is placed above a cast iron stove. To ensure air circulation, the design provides a pipe with a diameter of 60 mm. An oven is located above the cooking chamber. A channel runs underneath it to remove hot air from under the cast iron stove, which is subsequently connected to the chimney.
Project of the Malyutka stove with order
More detailed information can be taken from the project. It contains a description of each row, photographs and recommendations. You can download the PDF.
