Concrete is very durable material with a heterogeneous structure, so it is quite difficult to drill it. Today, the most common way to create technological holes in concrete is drilling with a hammer drill. This method allows you to create holes quickly and with good quality.
The difficulty of drilling holes in concrete is that it has very high strength and is therefore difficult to process. In addition, concrete surfaces are not uniform in composition. They may include metal reinforcement, crushed stone and other fillers, and this makes work very difficult. A hammer drill can cope with such work, which can drill holes with and without impact, as well as perform impacts without drilling.
Using a hammer drill, you can carry out all types of repair and construction work involving solid materials. This tool is trusted for all work on concrete, brick or natural stone. Drill deep and wide holes, make channels for laying electrical wiring, chip ceramic tiles, remove plaster or break through masonry - all this can be done with a hammer drill.
The hardness of crushed stone inclusions in concrete is much higher than the hardness of other fractions
Such multifunctional tool As a hammer drill, it is capable of making holes in concrete of various sizes and for various purposes. This is especially often done in the process:
- air conditioner suspensions;
- furniture installation;
- installation of plumbing;
- electrical wiring devices;
- carrying out finishing work.
Types of rotary hammers
Rotary hammers, like any electric tool, are divided into household and professional:
- household hammer drills intended for home use. Basically, they are equipped with an SDS-plus cartridge and have a power of no more than 900 W. Equipment of this type is offered by such well-known companies as Bosch, Skil, Hundai, Black Decker, as well as domestic manufacturers Energomash, Kalibr, Interskol, Enkor, etc.;
- professional hammer drills able to withstand fairly intense loads and work longer without interruption. They have better protection from vibrations. The most famous manufacturers in this segment are Bosch, Hitachi, Makita, Metalbo, Dewalt.
Depending on the number of operating modes, rotary hammers are divided into:
- single-mode. These hammer drills are the simplest and work like an ordinary drill. With their help you can drill holes in wooden, plastic or metal surfaces;
- dual-mode rotary hammers capable of drilling with impact. This mode is the main one for a hammer drill, therefore it is widely used when it is necessary to make blind or through holes in a concrete or brick wall. Impact drilling is also called drilling. The effectiveness of this process lies in the fact that the cutting tool installed in the hammer drill penetrates very quickly into a solid base due to the high impact force. In order for a tool (crown or drill) to simultaneously rotate and perform an impact, it is usually made of very high quality materials;
- three-mode rotary hammers can strike without rotating the spindle. This mode is also the main one and is called chiselling. In this case, the spindle makes only reciprocating movements. Using a hammer drill in the chiselling mode, dismantling work is performed, for example, removing old tiles, destroying beams, brickwork, chip off the plaster, make large holes for engineering communications, grooves are made for electrical wiring. The equipment used is chisels (chisels), which differ in purpose and shape. All types of these consumables has one common property - the ability to use an impact to open the structure of the stone and then wedge it, thus destroying the hard surface.
Three-mode hammer drills are the most versatile, but their cost is also quite high.
Tool weight groups
There are three groups of rotary hammers depending on their weight:
- light hammer drills. This group includes instruments weighing no more than 4 kg and power up to 800 W. The impact energy of such hammer drills rarely exceeds 3 J. This tool is intended for home use;
- middle group rotary hammers weigh 4-8 kg. Their power is 800-1200 W, and the impact energy is approximately 10 J. Such hammer drills are professional equipment and can even work with reinforced concrete. Basically, they are used to work in two modes - drilling with impact and just impact;
- to the heavy group include hammer drills weighing more than 8 kg, power from 1200 W and impact energy from 13 J. They are used to make breaks and holes in surfaces made of concrete and natural stone with a diameter of more than 40 mm.
Horizontal and vertical models
Rotary hammers have not only different technical specifications, but also the design. Some of them are similar to a regular drill, since their engine is located horizontally. This arrangement is the most convenient for drilling holes and allows you to perform work with very high accuracy. Most light-class rotary hammers have a horizontal layout.
For drilling holes large diameter and chiselling, rotary hammers with a vertically mounted engine are more suitable. Firstly, the tool turns out to be more compact. Secondly, a vertically mounted engine is cooled better. Almost all medium and heavy-duty rotary hammers have a body shape similar to the letter L. As a rule, horizontal models are chosen for situations where it is necessary to drill holes, and vertical models when it is necessary to chisel.
Types of cartridges
There is one more difference between rotary hammers. This is a chuck type for mounting cutting tool. The chuck plays the role of a connecting link between the tool and the hammer drill. In order for work to be carried out efficiently, the clamping device must meet a number of requirements.
For example, a chisel or auger must be held securely in the chuck and can be tightened and released easily and safely. In this case, the drill must maximally absorb the highest torque and impact force that the hammer drill is capable of delivering. Its shank has for this purpose special design. The method of fastening the cutting tool in a hammer drill is designated as SDS (Special Direct System).
It must be taken into account that each fastening system has its own equipment:
- SDS-plus. Torque is transmitted by two symmetrical long splines, and two oval grooves secure the shank in the chuck. The diameter of the shank is 10 mm. This fastening system is used in rotary hammers weighing up to 4 kg;
- SDS-top. The system is based on the same principle as the previous one, but is used for tools with higher impact loads, which belong to the medium weight group. The shank diameter is 14mm;
- SDS-max. The torque in this fastening system is transmitted by three long asymmetrical splines. The shank with a diameter of 18 mm is fixed in the chuck with two oval grooves.
The SDS-max mounting system is designed for rotary hammers weighing more than 8 kg
Perforator device
Any hammer drill consists of two structural systems - electrical and mechanical. The components of the electrical system are an electric motor, operating mode switch and electronics, and the mechanical system consists of crank mechanisms, gears and a tool holder. Both systems are enclosed in a housing, which can be plastic, metal or a combination.
A very important component of a hammer drill is the impact mechanism, which provides the main impact function of this tool. The impact mechanism can be electro-pneumatic or electro-mechanical. The first type is now used in most models of rotary hammers. The use of such a mechanism makes it possible to obtain high impact energy with minimal electric motor power.
The impact electro-pneumatic mechanism can be presented in two versions - with a swinging (“drunk”) bearing or with a crank mechanism. The first option is used mainly in light hammer drills, and the second - in medium and heavy ones.
When the hammer drill is operating rotational movement electric motor converted using a crank mechanism into a reciprocating piston movement. The ram, under the influence of compression present in the cavity between it and the piston, accelerates and transfers its energy through the hammer to the working tool - drill, bit, chisel, etc.
Main technical characteristics
One of the main technical parameters hammer drill is the impact energy, measured in joules. The impact force of light models is no more than 1-2 J, and heavier hammer drills can work with an impact force of 8-15 J. The greater the impact force, the larger the diameter of the hole that can be obtained.
If this value is small, then the hammer drill does not work more efficiently than an impact drill. In this case, he will drill a hole, not punch it. As a result, the cutting tool will wear out quite quickly and you will have to forget about high productivity.
Beat frequency
A quantity called impact frequency indicates how many times in one minute the piston strikes the firing pin. The larger this value, the higher the hole drilling speed. The performance of a hammer drill depends on both impact energy and frequency. The most durable and efficient equipment combines both of these parameters harmoniously.
Spindle speed
Depending on the class of the hammer drill, the spindle rotation speed can range from 600 to 1500 rpm. As the productivity and power of the rotary hammer increase, the rotation speed decreases. This is due to the design features of this tool. For productive models, the diameter of the equipment can be quite large. A small-diameter drill has to rotate quickly, and a large-diameter drill has to rotate slowly, otherwise it will wear out very quickly.
Clogged spiral grooves can even jam the tool in the hole.
High speed rotary hammers have quite an impressive weight, which does not make it easier to use at all. In addition, in high-speed models, the spiral grooves designed to remove drilling waste from the work site wear out very quickly. Because of this, the device begins to heat up very much.
Rotary hammers can be equipped with the following additional functions:
- gear shift mechanism. It will be useful when switching from drill to drill and back. After all, these tools work at different speeds;
- drilling depth limiter. With its help, it is easy to determine whether the drill or drill has reached the required mark;
- rotation speed stabilization spindle when load forces fluctuate;
- soft start and a special device for protection against overheating;
- reverse shaft rotation. This function will be needed when the drill gets stuck in the hole being machined;
- anti-vibration system, compensating for the shaking of the hammer drill when drilling, drilling or chiseling;
- dust protection during work;
- locking button, used to secure the hammer drill in operating mode.
As you can see, the hammer drill has a whole series advantages compared to other tools that perform similar tasks:
- Firstly, this is the presence of a separate mechanism responsible for the impact. This mechanism gives the hammer drill the ability to implement three modes of operation, that is, it is capable of simply drilling, drilling with impact, and performing only impact action;
- secondly, rotary hammers have an SDS system for clamping equipment. Its design features ensure reliable fixation of the equipment and its free movement. In addition, installing equipment into the SDS system does not require the use of additional tools, which significantly saves working time;
- thirdly, as a result of the first two advantages, the hammer drill is capable of drilling holes in materials that are quite difficult to process, for example, in concrete and natural stone.
Features of hammer drilling technology
Concrete structures are characterized by very high strength, reliability and durability, so their share in modern construction is constantly increasing. Along with this, we also have to solve the issue of effective drilling of concrete surfaces. Most often, a hammer drill is used for this purpose, which has a number of advantages compared to other tools, for example, impact drill. A drill mounted in a hammer drill chuck bites into a concrete surface much easier and with less loss than a drill bit. Therefore, using a hammer drill, concrete is drilled much faster.
This result is achieved due to several factors. First of all, a hammer drill has more power than a drill. The rotary hammer drill makes translational movements with a greater amplitude than the drill bit of an impact drill. In addition, the hammer blows have greater force, so it drills into the wall easier and faster.
The rotation speed of the rotary hammer chuck is lower than that of a drill
Concrete is a durable material and not easy to drill. This is due to its structure and the fillers used. The tool used for drilling is forced to collide with dissimilar materials– metal fittings and crushed stone. They are the main obstacle in the way of a drill or auger, which can only overcome one of them. That is why drilling holes in concrete surfaces is performed with various tools.
The following are used as cutting tools:
- drills;
- borax;
- crowns
A separate category consists of punches, which are hand tools and perform auxiliary functions. The punch is a long metal trihedron with a pointed end. It is used when the cutting tool rests on crushed stone present in concrete. In such a situation, a punch is inserted into the hole made and hit with a hammer to crush the “pebble.”
Drills
For drilling concrete, drills with a carbide or diamond-coated tip are used. With this tool you can make a hole of small diameter (no more than 14 mm).
Boers
They differ from drills in the shape of the shank. Drills are considered a disposable tool because they cannot be sharpened and are thrown away after their service life is exhausted. Their advantage is that they are able to remove concrete chips from the hole obtained during the drilling process. This tool is advisable to use when drilling holes of great depth, including through ones. Using a drill, you can drill holes with a diameter of 4 to 80 mm.
When drilling holes with a drill, the reinforcement poses a certain danger. As a rule, a drill immediately burns out after a direct hit on metal. If the tool passes tangentially to the reinforcement element, then it simply jams and further drilling becomes impossible. That's why For reinforced concrete, it is more advisable to use diamond core bits.
Crowns
Crowns are a segment metal pipe, at one end of which there are cutting elements of very high strength, and at the other there is a shank for securing the tool in the hammer drill chuck. The cutting edges of the crowns can be in the form of carbide teeth, “welded” onto the metal or flat with diamond coating. This tool is used for drilling large diameter holes. With its help you can make holes in concrete with a diameter of 50-450 mm.
More versatile is drilling holes using diamond bits. Such crowns have wide cutting segments or a continuous cutting surface with diamond (corundum) abrasive. They are used for drilling reinforced concrete using a non-impact method, which protects load-bearing structural elements from vibrations. Diamond crowns have a fairly long service life. For example, a crown with a diameter of 200 mm with high-quality diamond segments can process up to 20 linear meters concrete with a medium degree of reinforcement.
Serrated bits are usually used when processing concrete with a rotary hammer in hammer mode.
Drilling holes in concrete with a crown
After turning on the hammer drill, the crown begins to perform circular translational movements in the concrete and, as the working pressure increases, moves in the desired direction. During operation, the tool gets quite hot. To protect it from overheating, a cooling system is used.
There are two methods of drilling - dry and wet. In the latter case, the tool coolant is water. It must be supplied continuously and in sufficient quantities. The required volume of water depends on the diameter of the crown and is usually indicated in the instructions. Exceeding this value makes it difficult to advance the tool, and a deficiency leads to rapid wear of the cutting segments.
When dry drilling, the tool is cooled by air. Therefore, the crown must be periodically removed from the hole being processed to cool and check its performance. The advantage of the dry method is that drilling can be done anywhere, in structures of any shape and type. But dry drilling can only be done to shallow depths.
When drilling through holes, the drilled concrete remains inside the crown and is removed along with it. When a blind hole is made, the concrete remaining in the center of the drilled circle must be removed by chipping with a chisel or chisel. To speed up the drilling process, you can take out the crown after it has gone a little deeper into the concrete surface and make several holes of the required depth along the contour of the circle using a Pobedit drill, the diameter of which should be equal to the width of the crown segments. Then continue drilling with a crown.
Drilling reinforced concrete
Conventional drills are not suitable for drilling holes in reinforced concrete, since they simply cannot withstand high loads. The most in an efficient way Drilling reinforced concrete today is the use of diamond tools. Using such a tool, you can produce holes that correspond with a given diameter and depth with pinpoint accuracy.
The essence of the technology is that a tool with diamond cutting segments allows you to make holes of different diameters and depths without any damage. load-bearing elements buildings. This is precisely the main advantage this method drilling compared to, for example, carbide drills or a jackhammer. When drilling diamond tool the walls do not experience vibrations, so their structure remains in its original form.
Among the advantages of diamond drilling it should be noted:
- almost one hundred percent accuracy of shapes and sizes of holes;
- absence of a lot of dust and noise;
- high speed of work;
- possibility of using the tool in hard to reach places and in a wide variety of conditions.
The main technological stages of drilling holes with a hammer drill
Preparation of the workplace
The workplace, first of all, must be well lit and free of unnecessary objects and unauthorized persons. It is necessary to check whether it is hidden in a wall or another work surface electrical cable or pipe. This can be done using a special detector.
The drilling site should be inspected for old contamination. If there are stains, the surface must be thoroughly cleaned. Since the outer layer of concrete is usually looser than the inner one, before starting drilling it is necessary to mark and widen the point of the future hole, that is, make a recess for the drill to enter so that it does not slip or go to the side.
If you plan to work outdoors, you should make sure that the extension cord used is suitable for outdoor use.
Preparing the cutting tool for work
When starting drilling, it is necessary to prepare the working tool. This preparation provides:
- unscrewing and cleaning the cartridge;
- applying special lubricant to internal surfaces cartridge;
- The cartridge prepared for work is installed and securely fixed.
Since drilling concrete is a long and difficult process, It is necessary to constantly ensure that the cutting tool does not overheat. A drill that heats up quickly or is very difficult to make its way through is most likely simply dull or improperly sharpened. Before starting work, be sure to inspect the drill and other tools used.
Before starting drilling, the operating mode is checked. The hammer drill is turned on and checked at idle. This lasts no more than one minute. When the hammer drill is operating, there should be no extraneous sounds or vibration. The appearance of smoke or a burning smell will indicate that the hammer drill is not working properly.
Drilling a hole
A drill or drill is placed at the location of the hole and the hammer is turned on. Work begins at a low speed, and then gradually increases it.
During the drilling process, it is necessary to avoid distortion of the cutting tool. There is no pressure on the hammer drill. After the hole is filled with dust and concrete particles, the drill is removed and the hole is cleaned.
- when drilling hard surfaces, lubricants and coolants should be used;
- Before using a long drill, it is recommended to first drill with a shorter attachment;
- in order to prevent the scattering of porous and loose materials, they should be processed in drilling mode;
- after drilling 170-180 holes, the drill shank is cleaned of dust, wiped with a dry cloth and lubricated with grease;
- when using professional hammer drill alternating periods of continuous work and rest are carried out (work time - 30 minutes, break time - 10 minutes);
- a break must be taken when the part of the housing at the location of the gearbox becomes very hot;
- cooling the hammer drill by lowering it into water is strictly prohibited;
- It is not recommended to increase the impact force of the hammer drill by increasing pressure on the surface being processed.
After completion of work, turn off the hammer drill and clean it with a soft cloth. If necessary, use a cloth soaked in soapy water.
Must be cleaned from dust and dirt ventilation holes hammer drill
Security measures
Drilling concrete is a dusty, difficult and extremely responsible job. It carries, first of all, the risk of injury. In addition, drilling into walls can compromise their strength and integrity, and while drilling, you can stumble upon communications and damage them or even get an electric shock.
When carrying out work, you should wear protective equipment personal protection: respirator, glasses, earplugs, canvas gloves and special clothing. Work at a height of more than 1.5 m from the ground surface is work at height, therefore it is necessary to ensure that the worker reliable support in the form of scaffolding. Drilling into walls from a ladder or stepladder is strictly prohibited.
The hammer drill must be in good working order. Damage to the insulation of the supply cable is not allowed.. During the drilling process, the cable must be positioned so that it cannot be damaged in any way. Hidden electrical wiring and distribution boxes walled up in walls also pose a significant danger. Therefore, before starting drilling, it is necessary to carefully check the surface for the presence of current-carrying wires using an electromagnetic radiation detector.
Cost of concrete drilling services
The cost of drilling depends on the type of concrete, diameter, shape and required depth of the hole.
Estimated cost of drilling holes with a hammer drill:
| Hole diameter, mm | Cost of 1 cm of passage, rub. | |||
| in a foam concrete wall | lightweight concrete | made of reinforced concrete | ||
| up to 50 | 11 | 14 | 16 | |
| 50-100 | 17 | 21 | 28 | |
| 100-200 | 27 | 40 | 46 | |
| 200-300 | 38 | 82 | 89 | |
| 400 | 93 | 119 | 129 | |
Conclusions
The main task of a hammer drill is hammer drilling and chiselling. To implement this, the hammer drill has a very reliable design that allows it to easily withstand prolonged shock loads. This tool has great impact force, which allows you to perform work quickly and easily.
It should be noted that The scope of application of rotary hammers with horizontal and vertical engine positions differs slightly. Horizontal models are usually used at home. In the professional field, they are used for intensive drilling of holes of small diameter and length. Thanks to light weight, horizontal rotary hammers can be used for a long time suspended, for example, during installation suspended ceilings or installing doors.
Vertical hammer drills are used for gating and laying pipes. Tools of this class are quite expensive and are used exclusively for highly specialized tasks.
Practical tips for drilling concrete with reinforcement with a hammer drill are shown in the video:
When improving an apartment, it becomes necessary to mount all kinds of objects on the walls and ceiling - photographs, paintings, lamps, mirrors, curtains, shelves, TV, baseboards and much more.
In order to hang a photograph or a small painting, of course, you should not drill into the wall. It is enough to hammer in a small nail. Not every carnation is suitable for this task. It is best to use dowels - nails from the mounting brackets used to secure computer computers to the walls. network cables. These cloves are of sufficient length, thick and hardened. It turns out to score even in concrete wall.
Performing the operation of drilling holes in walls with modern equipment with power tools will not present any greater difficulty if you know how to drill correctly. It will save you from unnecessary cleaning and keep your property intact if you use a jig for dust-free drilling.
How to drill a wall
A better tool than a hammer drill for drilling holes in brick and concrete walls has not yet been invented. But rarely does anyone have the luxury of having such an expensive tool on their household. Usually buy an electric impact drill.
Drill selection
When purchasing an electric drill, you need to be guided by the following technical characteristics.
The power of the drill must be at least 600 W. Revolutions up to 2500 per minute and the ability to smoothly adjust them from zero to maximum. The presence of reverse rotation (switch for the direction of rotation of the drill clockwise or counterclockwise). The best chuck is a quick-release chuck; you won’t have to waste time clamping drills and constantly searching for a lost key. The diameter of drills clamped in the chuck is up to 12 mm.
The presence of a switchable hammer drilling function. Of course, when this function is enabled, the drill will not become a full-fledged hammer drill, but drilling walls will be much easier and faster, and here’s why. Brick, cement and concrete withstand static load - pressure very well. But they are easily destroyed by dynamic influences - impact. Karatekas, with a strong blow, easily break a brick in two with the edge of their palm. When drilling with a drill without a hammer function, there is simply pressure from the drill and it is difficult for the cutting edge to catch on to the material, so drilling is slow and the drill becomes very hot due to friction. Drilling with impact is completely different. Upon impact, the drill punctures a part of the material with its cutting edge, and, falling with an impact into the formed recess, breaks off a portion of particles of the material. Something like chiselling is happening.
Drill selection
Walls made of wood, plasterboard, and foam concrete can be successfully drilled with an ordinary drill. For walls made of brick, stone or concrete, you need a carbide drill. It differs from steel by cutting edges made of carbide material welded onto a regular drill, usually Pobeda. Less commonly, artificial diamond.
The pobedite insert is clearly visible at the end of the top drill. It is enough to have 2 Pobedit drills with a diameter of 6 and 8 mm on the farm.
Using drills with pobedite surfacing, you can drill a hole no more than 10-15 cm deep. For drilling to greater depths, for example, to drill through a wall, use a drill. Drills for drilling brick and concrete walls are up to one meter long and are designed for drilling holes only with a hammer drill. Even the cutting edges of the drill are made not sharp, but rounded to increase their wear resistance. A drill with a hammer function can also be successfully drilled with a drill.
Drills come with a shank diameter of 10 and 18 mm, with special grooves of the SDS+ or SDS-max standard for fastening, but they also clamp well in a regular jaw chuck. The standard and diameter of the drill are stamped on its shank.
If you need to drill through a thick wall, for example half a meter, then the passage is carried out in several stages with drills of the same diameter, but of different lengths. This is necessary for safety and faster drilling. First, drill the wall with a 20 cm long drill to a depth of 10-15 cm, then with a longer drill to a depth of 30-35 cm and finish drilling with a 50 cm long drill. The drill for such work must be powerful enough. Of course, the drill is not designed for such a load and its use is permissible only in exceptional cases. To perform this type of work, it is better to rent a real hammer drill.
How to drill a wall
Before you start drilling a wall or ceiling, you need to make sure that there are no holes in the plaster under the intended place. electrical wires or other cables. Otherwise, you can damage the electrical wiring and get under voltage yourself.
How to avoid getting caught in a wire
It is necessary to inspect the wall for the presence of a switch or socket. Usually, wires extend upward from them in a vertical direction to distribution box. But verticality is the ideal case. This rule is rarely observed in practice by electricians, saving wire, often hidden wiring laid diagonally. Here's an example of this. When I made repairs and moved the counter to another place, after removing the old wallpaper the following picture opened. You can clearly see how the wire leading to the meter was laid.
But still, the wire will run from the switch to the nearest box. The wire will also go from the chandelier to the nearest box.
Typically the wires are recessed to a depth of no more than 10 mm. To check, use a blunt instrument, such as a screwdriver, to dig into the wall to this depth. If no wires are found, then you can start drilling. And yet, just in case, up to a depth of 20 mm, you should not press too hard on the drill and after deepening every couple of millimeters, visually check whether the wire is caught.
There are special devices that allow you to determine the location of wires in the wall. Here are some of them that are not expensive, made in China, but nevertheless work well. It also has a metal detector function, which allows you to identify the location of metal reinforcement in concrete walls. The device allows you to find copper electrical wiring at a recessing depth of up to 10 mm. Electrical wiring made of aluminum wires can only be detected in metal detector mode.
Wiring detection is indicated by flashing LED and intermittent sound signal. In metal detector mode, when detected, the diode lights up constantly and the sound produced is continuous. There is a sensitivity regulator, the finder is powered by a Krohn-type element. Such a device is especially necessary when installing suspended and suspended ceilings, since load-bearing structures They are mounted on self-tapping screws near the ceiling, exactly where electricians usually lay the wiring.
Drilling holes in reinforced concrete
Brick walls can be drilled with a Pobedit drill without much difficulty. We decided on the location, attached the jig and, pressing hard on the drill, drilled a hole. It happens that you come across burnt bricks in the wall, which drills more slowly, the dust is not red, but black. The main thing is to drill at low speeds (200 - 400) with the impact mode turned on, pressing harder on the drill handle, and make sure that the drill does not overheat.
I bring to your attention a great video where you can see how a brick wall is drilled using an ordinary drill with a hammer drill function and a drill with pobeditovy surfacing. A hole was made in the brick wall for a box to install an internal electrical outlet.
As you can see, drilling a brick is not at all difficult. Be careful When drilling for a long time, the drill heats up to a high temperature and If you touch it, you can get a severe burn. It is necessary to periodically stop drilling and dip the drill in water.
Unless the concrete wall or ceiling is made of 600 or 500 grade cement, it drills just as well as brick. In domestic construction, only grade 400 cement is used. In old houses, sometimes there are columns and ceilings made of high-strength concrete. They are very difficult to drill and take a long time.
In the production of concrete blocks and wall panels for strength, they install iron reinforcement welded together mutually perpendicularly, which is corrugated rods with a diameter of 8-15 mm, and add granite crushed stone. A pobedite drill is not able to overcome such an obstacle. But there is a simple solution. When, while drilling, the drill suddenly stops going deeper, it means it has encountered reinforcement or granite. The reinforcement can be successfully drilled with an ordinary drill. If you don’t have a simple drill on hand and it is permissible to move the location of the hole, then you can move it diagonally up or down. Granite pebbles in concrete crumble when struck with a drill or narrow chisel inserted into a hole with a hammer. After each blow, to prevent the tool from jamming in the concrete and to make the work go faster, it is necessary to turn it a quarter turn. After removing the obstacle, drilling continues with a Pobedit drill. For a drill with a hammer drill, granite stones are not an obstacle and can be drilled successfully.
Drilling tiles
For drilling in tiles Using a drill with carbide surfacing, not specifically designed for tiles, it is necessary to first remove the glaze after marking the drilling point.
This is done very simply, with a core, and if it is absent, you can use an ordinary self-tapping screw or even a thick nail with a sharp end to chip off the glaze with very light blows in the place of the future hole and then drill as brick wall at low speeds.
Drilling large diameter holes in the wall
When installing ventilation ducts and hoods, it becomes necessary to make a large diameter hole in the wall, for example 18 cm. Sometimes you want to hide it in the wall electric meter, and then you need to make a niche in the wall.
At home, this problem can be solved using a carbide drill. The outline of the future hole is drawn on the wall with a pencil. WITH outside From the marking line, holes are drilled with a carbide drill with a diameter of 8-12 mm with a distance between the edges of the holes of about 10 mm. For a hole in the wall with a diameter of 18 cm, you will need to perform about 30 drillings with a drill diameter of 10 mm. Next, a sample of the wall material is made using a chisel and hammer. With a smaller drill diameter, the edges of the hole will be neater, but you will have to drill more holes.
If the wall is thick and the length of the drill is not enough to achieve through drilling, then you can drill in two stages.
If it is possible to drill a wall on both sides, then first perform drilling as described above on one side of the wall, then in the geometric center of the resulting sample, a hole is drilled in the wall to reach out, that is, through. Relative to the resulting hole, markings are made on the opposite side of the wall and the operation is repeated.
If it is not possible to drill a thick wall on both sides, then you will have to do drilling and sampling in two stages. From the marking line on the outside, another line is drawn at a distance sufficient so that after the first sampling in the wall and further drilling, the drill can go deeper into the made niche without touching the edges of the wall.
To reduce the labor intensity of the work, it is better to immediately purchase a drill of sufficient length.
Drilling depth limiter
To control the depth of the resulting hole during the drilling process, you can put a piece of cambric (tube) of the required length on the drill bit until it stops in the chuck.
If you do not have a suitable cambric on hand and you need to drill a small number of holes, then you can use ordinary PVC insulating tape, winding several turns of it. This simple device will speed up your work and save you from having to stop drilling to measure the depth of the hole.
Jig for drilling holes without dust
Due to the heterogeneity of the walls, especially those made of brick, the drill often “leads” away from the intended place and if there is more than one hole, then the suspended shelf does not hang horizontally or, even worse, it is impossible to hang it, since the installed dowels do not coincide with the mounting ones loops. You can use a jig in the form of a sheet of plywood with a pre-drilled hole, but when drilling due to vibration it can also move and again the result will not be what was expected. But there is simple technology, allowing you to drill two or more holes strictly in specified locations.
Precise hole drilling
It turns out that the problem can be solved very simply by gluing a sheet of any sandpaper with glue or double-sided tape to the entire area of the side of the conductor that is attached to the wall. At the same time, the adhesion of the jig to the wall surface increases many times over, and during drilling, the specified accuracy of positioning of the jig is ensured. The hole will appear exactly at the marking location.
Depending on the weight of the product and the density of the wall, you have to drill holes for dowels of different diameters, usually 6 or 8 mm. For the versatility of the jig, it is necessary to drill several holes of the desired diameters with an ordinary drill.
To top it off, attach a plate to the end of the base of the conductor at a right angle. Thanks to this modification, most of the drilling products will remain on this shelf, which will prevent contamination of the wallpaper and reduce the scattering of dust in all directions.
The proposed device is also indispensable when drilling holes for attaching skirting boards. Drill a hole in the jig at a given height from the shelf. When drilling, place the shelf on the floor and all the holes will be exactly at the required height from the floor, which will guarantee a tight fit of the plinth to the floor surface.
Sometimes you have to hang a product on the wall, for which you need to drill several holes in the wall and maintain the distance between them with greater accuracy. If the wall is brick and plastered, then it is impossible to perform accurate drilling without a jig.
To make a jig for precision drilling, a board, sheet of plywood or metal is suitable. After marking in the sheet, it is drilled with an ordinary drill required quantity holes. Consider the case for fastening the product with two screws. One hole is drilled with a diameter equal to the diameter of the drill that will be used to drill the wall, the second with a diameter equal to the diameter of the self-tapping screw. After the jig is made, the first hole is drilled in the wall using the jig for the precision drilling described earlier, and a dowel is driven into the hole.
The conductor is screwed to the wall with a self-tapping screw into the hammered dowel and leveled using a water level so that drilled holes were on the same horizontal line.
Thanks to the use of a simple jig, which can be made in a few minutes from any available material, the holes were created exactly at a given distance from each other.
Using the same technology, you can drill a whole series of holes at a greater distance from each other. In this case, first, the outer holes are drilled using the technology described above, the jig is screwed with two outer screws, and then all other holes are drilled.
The proposed options for conductors are convenient when renovating an apartment, when dirt is common everywhere.
However, when the renovation is completed and the place is clean, drilling becomes stressful. You don’t want to stain your carpets and furniture with concrete or brick chips and dust.
Drilling without dust
When drilling walls, especially the ceiling, flour and grains of sand from the drilled material scatter throughout the room. This happens because an impeller is installed inside the drill to cool the engine, which, rotating, sucks air into the drill body from the side of the handle, and throws it out heated in the chuck area. This measure makes it possible to make a drill of greater power with small dimensions and protect the drill mechanism itself from dust. And the question of how to protect your home from dust when drilling is left to the owner to decide. I present simple design allowing you to drill without dust.
The drilling jig for dust-free drilling is a modified previous version, but the shelf is replaced by a part cut off from plastic bottle. A piece of 9-11 ply plywood measuring 80x150 mm is cut out, and a hole with a diameter equal to the diameter of the drill plus 1 mm is drilled at a distance of 30 mm from the edge along the center line. On the side where the sandpaper will be glued, a trapezoidal cut is made with a depth of 2-3 layers of plywood. The sample will serve as a kind of air intake during drilling.
A part is cut off from a plastic bottle so that the remaining part can be attached to the conductor. The width of the base of the conductor is selected based on the size of the bottle. I took a square bottle, but any 1.5 liter bottle will do. Insulating tape is wound onto the threaded part of the neck of the bottle until a size equal to internal diameter suction pipe of the vacuum cleaner. When the bottle is bent, holes are formed to form the required configuration. We close them with pieces of the remaining plastic from the bottle and secure them with a stationery stapler. You can close them with tape. There is no need for tightness here. Gaps of a few millimeters will not matter, since the suction power of even a low-power vacuum cleaner is excessive.
Then, using a furniture stapler, the formed part of the bottle is secured along the perimeter of the end of the base of the conductor, on the side where the sandpaper is not glued. We make a hole in the bottle for the drill. It is better to use the melting method, since the edges forming the hole will become thicker and last longer. I melted it with a soldering iron. You can melt a hole by heating it gas stove until red with a nail.
We connect the vacuum cleaner, turn on the minimum suction power, and do test drilling.
The result will make you very happy. You will not find a single speck of dust in the circle or brick flour on the drilling surface!
17.05.2014 08:33
Quite often when repair work oh we have to drill a solid concrete base - be it holes for a hanging shelf, place for socket or work on installing a new ceiling. And this task is quite difficult, as it might seem at first glance. Moreover, concrete is a very heterogeneous and extremely dense material.
Let's figure out how to drill concrete at home and what is the best way to do it.
How to drill a concrete wall?
1. Conventional drills not suitable for concrete. It is better to use carbide drills, for example, Pobedit. Such concrete drills have special soldered inserts made of carbide material at the ends (mostly a mixture of tungsten carbide and cobalt in a ratio of 10 to 90%). Carbide tips are easily recognizable - they have the shape of a kind of “house”.
2. If there are few holes planned and they are relatively narrow, then at home you can use a drill with
shock load function. An impact drill at home is suitable for holes in concrete with a diameter of no more than 12-13 mm, otherwise it is better to take a more expensive hammer drill. As for a conventional drill (“unstressed”), it is advisable to use it for concrete only as a last resort if you do not have other working tools at hand.
3. A hammer drill is suitable for any drilling in concrete - it is more effective due to its “crushing” function, although it is more expensive than an impact drill. In a hammer drill, the rotation of the drill is combined with its reciprocating motion, which makes drilling work much faster. A hammer drill is good when quite a lot of drilling work is expected (for example, when you need to attach sheathing to the ceiling or walls). Keep in mind that a hammer drill is more powerful than a drill. Therefore, for example, for foam concrete ( cellular concrete) it is not suitable, as it will completely “destroy” the wall. And when drilling regular concrete with a hammer drill, do not overdo it - make sure that the plaster does not crumble.
4. Special drills (“SDS Plus” and “SDS-Max”) of various diameters are used for the hammer drill - from 4-5 mm to 7-8 cm. In order not to buy a very expensive complete set of drills, you need to choose drills for the hammer drill by diameter future dowel, and just in case, “plus or minus” a couple of neighboring ones in size.
5. In addition to drilling with an impact drill and hammer drill, there is another method - the so-called diamond drilling. Only this option requires special drilling rigs and diamond drills. This type of concrete drilling is very expensive, and, as a rule, a team of repairmen is hired to do it. Diamond drilling is used when a lot of repair work is planned for drilling a concrete base, or large holes or longitudinal grooves are needed (for example, when laying communications in a wall or floor). The advantage of this method is that there is no dust left after the drilling rig - it supplies water to the hole, washing away the dust and cooling the drill.
Stages of drilling concrete
1. Before starting work, be sure to think about whether there are any communications, cables, etc. in this place, so as not to damage anything.
3. The outer part of concrete is usually looser than the inner layers. Therefore, before you start drilling concrete, be sure to mark and widen the point of the future hole, that is, deepen (punch) the base of the drill entrance in this place. This is done to ensure that the drill does not slip or move to the side. For the core, you can use a hammer and a large sharp nail, a self-tapping screw or a special dowel.
4. During work, keep the working tool perpendicular to the concrete base, otherwise the risk of the drill breaking will increase.
5. If you are drilling a hole with an impact drill, switch modes from time to time. In order to “beat” the surface, turn on the “impact” option in the drill.
6. Like a drill, like a drill (perforator), you need to give it a “rest” from time to time - about once every 10-15 minutes. pause work.
7. Another point - the same Pobedit drills do not like overheating, therefore, under heavy operating load, their tips must be periodically cooled with water.
8. For concrete work, you will also need a triangular solid punch made of steel and regular hammer- suddenly there is rubble in the concrete. By the way, an old Victory drill will also work as a punch. If reinforcement or stones (crushed stone) are encountered during the drilling process, they are removed separately. Reinforcement can be processed with conventional tools (a punch and a traditional metal drill), but stones only lend themselves well to a punch.
9. Suddenly you urgently need to make a couple of holes for a shelf, and only a regular drill is at hand (without impact mode), then during the drilling process, if necessary, you can periodically insert a punch into the hole and give it several blows with a hammer, and then turn it in the hole , then drill again with a drill, etc. Do not forget that the drill itself must be carbide.
10. Periodically remove cement chips and dust from the working hole - they interfere with drilling. They can be removed with a vacuum cleaner or a natural brush.
11. If the drill is stuck, do not loosen it, but carefully disconnect the tool, then put on a drill of a larger diameter and free the stuck tip, being careful not to touch it.
12. You need to drill holes in the concrete 1 cm longer than the length of the dowel, so that the latter will fit into the wall without any problems.
Good luck with your renovation!
Those who live in houses with concrete partitions are well aware of the situation when it is necessary to hang an object on the wall. At such a moment, a completely reasonable question arises: how to drill concrete? Every home handyman Anyone who has ever encountered this problem has probably solved it for themselves. But how much effort did it take? At first, some people try to test the endurance of the drill along with their own strength. And without receiving the desired result, they leave the intention of making a hole in the concrete until next time. As a result, the instrument has to be repaired, and the shelves continue to gather dust in their corner. However, there are ways, you just need to find out for yourself and use them correctly in an emergency.
Concrete structures are very durable and difficult to drill. Often you have to rest drills against crushed stone, which is integral part concrete.
It is necessary to make holes in concrete when:
- furniture arrangement;
- facing works;
- additional installation of electrical wiring;
- hanging the air conditioner;
- installation of plumbing fixtures.
How to drill concrete? The issue of drilling concrete can be resolved in 2 ways:
- an impact drill or a hammer drill with a special drill called a Pobedit drill;
- diamond drilling.
It is important to note that it is not possible to make a hole in a concrete partition using standard drills. Therefore, for work, you should prepare drills with soldered plates, which are a high-strength pobedite alloy. They will do an excellent job with both brick and concrete. Do not use them only for working with soft materials, because the one who wins will not cut them, but only crumble them.
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What is better to use at home?
At home, when you need to make 2-3 holes on the concrete surface, it is quite suitable simple drill without the “blow” mode. Why, as the drill immerses with the victorious wall material the concrete is tapped with a strong metal pin (punch) corresponding in size to the diameter of the recess.
In particular, a punch is used when the tool begins to “lock” in the wall. Then the steel pin is placed in the recess and struck with a hammer or sledgehammer, trying to crush the overly dense areas and deepen the hole further. At the same time, the rod is turned slightly. After which a regular drill is put back into the process.
The manipulations described above are repeated again and again until the required depth is achieved. This method is not very fast, although it is quite suitable for making a couple of holes.
Another way is in concrete using universal diamond-coated drills. Their work is celebrated high efficiency on metal, concrete and crushed stone. They are attached only to a standard electric drill and other tools without a vibration function.
When working with a drill, extreme caution should be used, otherwise it will instantly fail. The advice from professionals here would be this: to prevent overheating of the drill, it must be periodically moistened with cold water.
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What to do when the amount of work is large?
To drill a large number of holes, you will need a hammer drill or a drill with an “impact” mode, as well as drills with winners at the end.
The impact drill combines rotational motion with reciprocating motion, which allows it to easily handle lightweight concrete. For drilling load-bearing partitions made of concrete, the best assistant is a hammer drill, since its main purpose is to punch holes exclusively on concrete surfaces.
There are differences between a drill and a hammer drill:
- The first is to drill holes of small diameter (no more than 12 mm);
- Using a hammer drill, larger recesses are drilled.
Drilling of reinforcement found in the thickness of a concrete wall is performed using metal drills.
Concrete is a durable and reliable material. Many, if not most, buildings are constructed from cast-in-place or precast concrete. As a rule, holes for laying utilities, pipelines, as well as recesses for installing electrical and low-current fittings are provided during the molding process concrete structures. But their location often does not suit the owner of the premises, and holes have to be drilled at new points. Let's try to figure out how best to do this.
Choosing a tool
Initially, you should determine which tool is better and more efficient for drilling a concrete wall. In a global sense, the choice is small - an impact drill or a hammer drill. But there can be many nuances, since power tools come in different power and functionality, and there are also many attachments for them. Therefore, you should define goals and objectives, and then decide which tool may be needed. So:
- You don't need a lot of force to screw a small screw into the wall for a picture. In this case, you can drill into a concrete wall with a conventional drill equipped with a drill bit with a Pobedit tip.
- When a small amount of work is expected, and the diameter of the holes to be punched does not exceed 12 mm, then an impact drill should be chosen.
- A hammer drill is used to drill holes of large diameters, as well as any size, in concrete, but in significant quantities.
The advantage of a rotary hammer over a drill, even with an impact function, is not only greater power and endurance. This tool uses not only drills of various sizes and qualities as a working tip, but also drill bits. This is the main device that can be used to drill a hole in concrete for a pipe.
Professional installers, when punching large-diameter holes in concrete, use special units, which include:
- high power electric motor;
- durable bracket with guide structure;
- drilling drive;
- drill bits with a diamond working area.
Such equipment allows you to make a hole or recess with a diameter of up to 40 cm in a concrete wall.
What will win more effectively or a diamond?
When you need to make only a few holes for a construction dowel, and there is no hammer drill at hand, then using a regular drill with a Pobedit drill bit is quite possible. Also this option will do It is best if the working surface is concrete, but made of cellular material. The hammer drill will destroy it. But when working with a Pobedit drill, remember that it is short-lived and requires periodic replacement. In addition, such a drill can “drill” into concrete. Then he needs to be helped manually with a punch and a hammer.
Drilling into a concrete wall with an impact drill equipped with a diamond-coated drill bit is much more effective. Diamond drills are somewhat more expensive than Pobedit drills, but they also last longer. And one more thing important point. Unlike Pobedit, a diamond drill punches holes not only in concrete and stone, but also in ceramic tiles, porcelain tiles and metal. When working with a diamond tool, it is not scary to stumble upon a reinforcement frame in the wall. It is better to purchase drills as a set, which includes drills of various diameters. This is more profitable than buying them individually.
When a hole with a diameter of 35 to 120 mm is drilled in a wall, diamond bits are used as a cutting device. They are carbide-tipped steel rings on a diamond-coated working area. For domestic purposes, crowns with a diameter of 6.8 cm are usually used; holes of this exact diameter are needed for installation electrical outlets and switches.
How to drill concrete correctly
Punching holes, like any other, requires preparation. In addition to tools and accessories, you should stock up on water to cool drills and bits. Before drilling into concrete with a drill or hammer drill, inspect the wall for:
- hidden heating pipelines, water supply;
- electrical wires, cables.
The search is carried out with a metal detector; identified communications are marked along their entire length. It is better to disconnect the electrical wiring on the work surface. Next:
- Mark the locations of future passages. If large diameter holes are expected, then the designation is made along the contour and axes.
- The depth of the hole for the construction dowel is 8-10mm greater than its length.
- To obtain a more accurate result, you need to drill concrete correctly. This means that the start of drilling should be done at low engine speeds.
- After a small depression is created, the speed is increased and the tool is switched to impact mode.
- If possible, provide a water supply to the drilling site. If this option is not available, periodically moisten the drill with water in a previously prepared container.
- If drilling is done with a drill in one position of the tool, then when drilling with a crown, the hammer drill must be slightly rocked. This way, waste will be easily removed from the resulting hole and the crown will not jam.
The most difficult obstacle that has to be overcome when drilling a concrete wall is the reinforcement cage. Small diameter steel bars diamond crown cuts on its own. When drilling with an impact drill, metal drills should be used to remove the reinforcement.
Wear safety glasses and a respirator. It is convenient to collect the resulting dust with a vacuum cleaner. Every 15 minutes of drilling, give the tool a break for about the same period of time. To continue working, moisten the drill with water.
