Examples of equipment for diamond drilling of concrete. Selecting a tool for drilling How to select tools for drilling

Among all the tools that the master uses when performing household work, the most popular is the electric drill.

It is required for installing cornices, hanging shelves, repairing furniture, working with electrical wiring and many types of other work.

Therefore, when the need arises to buy a new modern model, this issue should be approached consciously: from the entire diverse range of products offered for sale, choose the model that will optimally serve for many years and will not cause unnecessary expenses funds.

Purpose of the drill

According to its functionality, any drill solves the main task - drilling holes in certain types of materials:

• wood;
• steel alloys;
• non-ferrous metals;
• plastics.

For this purpose it was created large assortment drills for specific tasks and various working parts in drill designs. They are designed to operate under rated load at specific rotor speeds.

Concrete slabs, bricks, and stones have increased strength and are poorly processed for shearing with a rotating drill. To create depressions in them, another method is used: frequent blows. This principle is implemented in another power tool -.

Modern drills are also equipped with an impact mechanism, but their processing capabilities concrete materials are significantly limited and are only an additional feature for elite models because the main force of the tool is created through the application of torque.

Due to these differences, a drill with a power of 800 watts will be less able to create a hole in concrete slab than a 700 hammer drill. At the same time, it is easier to drill metal with an ordinary drill than with a hammer drill of equivalent power.

Principles of classification by reliability of mechanisms

Power tools are designed by manufacturers to drill holes under various loads, but without exceeding the rated power on the motor shaft. According to this indicator, they are divided into three classes:

1. household use;
2. professional tool;
3. industrial devices.

Drills for everyday use

These designs are created for reliable operation at home when drilling with breaks of about three hours during the working day. Impact drills in this class can punch holes in masonry materials for about 20% of the total operating time.

Many manufacturers try to design the body of these models in green, as shown in the picture below.

Attachment of the working element

The drill can contain chucks that clamp the drill:

• cam mechanism using a special key;
• or having a quick-clamping device controlled by the operator’s hand force.

The latest design allows for more convenient drill replacement. This advantage is felt when it is necessary to create many holes of different diameters and complete the work in a short time.

A keyless chuck requires the key to be removed from the engagement after the drill is clamped. In order not to throw it anywhere and waste time on subsequent searches, experienced craftsmen tie it through a hole inside the handle to the power cord of the drill near the plug mount.

This technique makes searching easier and saves time, and at the same time does not allow you to change drills while the power cord is plugged into the outlet.

Drill controls

To start the electric motor of the drill, you must use the buttons located on its handle. In this case, you can choose:

1. direction of rotation for models with reverse;
2. briefly pressing/releasing the power button to turn on/remove voltage from the engine;
3. One-time press for long rotation of the working body without holding the button and a second press to turn it off.

The third control method is intended for use when permanently securing the housing in fastening devices and manually feeding the workpiece. Drilling with this method while holding the tool by hand cannot be performed, because it is quite possible for the drill to jam in the material being processed.

Then the torque will begin to be transmitted with a powerful impulse to the body, forcing it to rotate around the stopped drill. The operator holding the tool in his hands will receive a powerful blow that he will not be able to resist.

The drill will break out of your hands, and the switch will supply voltage to the motor... The consequences of such actions are dangerous and impossible to predict.

For models with an impact mechanism, you can choose the mode of pure drilling or striking with simultaneous rotation.

Professional drills

Such designs are developed to perform technological operations during the performer's working day. They can work reliably for about 7÷8 hours a day.

Many manufacturers try to distinguish these models from the total number of instruments by using a blue body color. But the controls and operating rules for these models have not changed.

Drills for industrial use

This group of tools is created with maximum protection and high-quality settings, allowing continuous drilling by one operator during the working day and transferring the drill to a replacement for subsequent use without interruptions.

The increased reliability of devices of this class dictates their very high cost. Such a tool is not economically viable home handyman for performing household work.

Principles of classification by current sources

An electric drill motor can be created to be powered from a 220-volt household network or removable batteries based on the use of one of the combinations of metals for the electrode plates:

1. lithium-ion;
2. nickel metal hydride;
3. nickel-cadmium.

The first two types are environmentally friendly. Lithium-ion batteries have low self-discharge. Nickel metal hydride batteries at correct operation have a large guaranteed resource of charge and discharge cycles.

Nickel-cadmium models work better than others at low temperatures, are cheaper, but they have a memory effect that requires proper charging technology.

Cordless drills are not connected to the electrical network 220, they work well in autonomous conditions.

Specific designs

Mixer drills are produced in a separate class with engines designed to operate at low speeds while overcoming high counter forces created by dense construction mixtures. Their working body is made in the form of a spatula or drill, which ensures mixing of paints, putties and other solutions. The design of such a tool provides for a reserve of engine power and methods for increased heat removal from the windings, increasing the resistance of the mechanisms to overheating.

The angle drill has a head design that allows you to work in hard-to-reach places with limited space at an angle of 90 degrees to the axis of the body.

The drill/driver has the ability to adjust torque at low speeds. It is convenient for tightening or removing self-tapping screws or screws in large quantities.

The universal corded drill is widely used and has many functions:

• regulation of the rotation speed of the working body with a smooth start of drilling at low speeds and a gradual increase in the number of revolutions to the optimal value;
• reverse;
• impact mechanism.

How does a drill work?

Briefly the design can be represented:

• housing made of durable dielectric plastic;
• an electric motor consisting of a stator and a rotor with windings;
• collector unit with brushes;
• buttons and a switch with thyristor regulation of the voltage supplied to the engine;
• worm mechanism for transmitting rotation from the engine to the working element;
• chuck for holding drills;
• air cooling system;
• handles;
• additional devices.

Layout of parts of one type impact drill shown in the explanatory figure. It is clickable: when you click on the image, it increases in size for easy viewing.

Here you can see that the locking clamp is inserted between the stationary and rotating gears and rolls between them, thereby eliminating the possibility of their contact with the relief gear surfaces. This mode is created for normal drilling and taking the impact mechanism out of operation.

When it becomes necessary to knock out holes in stone or concrete structures, then the “impact-drilling” switch removes the locking latch from the meshing of the gears. The moving gear begins to press against the stationary one and, rotating under the force of the engine torque, rolls its relief along its figured surface, rises along its convexities and falls into the depressions.

In this case, the gear shaft, on the reverse side of which a chuck with a working element is mounted, performs not only rotation, but also a reciprocating motion, creating drill impacts on the concrete being processed.

For these blows to be effective, it is necessary to good effort Press the drill bit through the drill body into the hole being drilled. This feature of the operation of this impact mechanism significantly reduces the engine power to overcome friction forces.

At the most simple drills this function is missing.

The main condition for purchasing any model is the convenient and reliable performance of specific tasks facing the home craftsman. They are affected by the need to constantly process different materials.

For example, low-power models designed for drilling wood will not cope with a railway rail and will burn out. At the same time, a drill capable of creating holes in the armor of a tank is completely ineffective for processing plastics.

To select the optimal tool, take into account the technical characteristics:

• engine torque power. An indirect characteristic of its assessment is the consumed electrical power at the rated load, the value of which the manufacturer indicates on the body nameplate and in the product passport;
• drill rotation speed, the ability to adjust it;
• chuck design and diameters of available drills for installation in it.

Additional selection factors may include:

• equipment of working parts;
• packaging in a simple cardboard box or a special plastic case that allows you to store and safely transport the tool;
• state of technical documentation;
• manufacturer and seller warranties;
• cost and many other characteristics.

It is important to understand that even the best salesman will only be able to give an overview of the tools he has and recommend a model based on the operating conditions you specify, as shown in the attached video. But he is not able to foresee all future possibilities of its use.

You will have to choose a drill based on your own preferences and acquired knowledge.

Drilling wood is perhaps one of the most common operations in carpentry and carpentry work. Drilling holes is necessary both for connecting parts and for removing excess wood and for organizing access for other tools, for example, a pendulum saw blade or a chisel. Drilling is selected in wood round holes for dowels, round tenons, bolts, screws, and also remove (drill out) wood knots and then seal them with wooden plugs. It is much faster to hollow out various nests by pre-drilling holes.

A drill is the working part of any drilling machine, be it a hand drill or a stationary machine.

Depending on the nature and conditions of the work performed, different types of drills are used. The cutting elements of drills must ensure a free cutting process, and the resulting chips must be easily removed from the hole. The design of drills must be such that the cutting parameters do not change during sharpening.

Each drill has a rod, a shank and a working part.

The rod can have different lengths; The possible drilling depth depends on the length of the rod. For many drills, the rod has a special shape and special treatment and is adapted: a) to guide the drill; b) for cleaning the sides of the hole being drilled; c) for throwing away chips.

The shank is the upper, usually thickened part of the rod of a square or hexagonal pyramidal shape, with which the drill is inserted into the chuck of a drilling device (brace, drill).

The working (cutting) part of the drill consists of cutters. Based on the design of the cutting part, drills can be divided into three main groups: spoon, center and spiral.

A spoon drill (also called a perk) is a rod, in the lower (working) part of which there is a longitudinal groove ending in a pointed tip. With the help of a tip, the drill penetrates deep into the wood and, in addition, is centered. One edge of the groove is sharpened to its entire length and is cutting, the second edge serves as a guide. This drill works when rotated in one direction. Carpenters often sharpen the second edge as well - the drill then works when rotated in any direction.

The spoon drill works by pressing on it from above. It is not designed to eject chips, and you have to remove the drill from the hole to clear the chips. This reduces cutting performance. A spoon drill is used for drilling holes for dowels, screws, screws.

The snail drill is a type of spoon drill. Its cutting edge follows a conical helical line; At the bottom, the drill ends with a centering end in the form of a corkscrew. It is easier to work with a snail-shaped drill than a spoon drill, since its lower end seems to screw the drill into the wood, and the helical groove facilitates the ejection of chips.

The disadvantages of this drill are frequent breakage of the thin end, difficult sharpening, and operation when rotating in one direction. The purpose of a snail-shaped drill is the same as any spoon drill.

Awl drill. It has the shape of a triangular awl with a shank, works in both directions. Used for drilling holes for screws.

Center drill. The working part of this drill has the form of a blade with an awl-shaped tip - the center, a side arcuate cutter called a road worker, and a slightly inclined flat knife located along the radius. The purpose of the awl-shaped point is to center the drill, the road worker’s purpose is to cut the wood around the circumference of the hole being drilled, the flat knife is to remove the wood cut around the circumference in the form of a screw strip.

The center drill only works in one direction when you press it from above. It is used mainly for drilling holes for round tenons.

Screw drill. Its rod is twisted for 2/3 of its length.

Twist drill. The rod is covered 2/3 of the length by a helical spiral.

Spiral band, or corkscrew, drill. The rod is 2/3 of the length a steel strip twisted with a corkscrew.

The last three types of drills have a conical screw-shaped deepener in the working part, two road drills and two flat knife. The chips are easily thrown away. These drills work across the fibers with slight pressure on them and even without pressure. Used for drilling various holes with a diameter from 6 to 40 mm.

A plug drill is used to drill out knots for sealing with plugs; it works when you press on it from above. The working part of the drill is a steel cylindrical box with a diametrical partition - a cutter.

Countersink drill (countersink). The working part of this drill has the shape of a cone with longitudinal grooves on the side surface; A countersink drill is used for conical drilling of the upper part of the holes for screw heads.

To drill holes in various types of wood across the grain, spiral wood-cutting drills with a center and a scorer (Fig. 1, a) with a diameter of 4...32 mm and a length of 80...200 mm are used.

Rice. 1. Drills

a-spiral wood saw with a center and scorer, b - spiral with conical sharpening, c - cylindrical saw with an ejector and a cylindrical shank, d - the same, with a conical shank, d - drill diameter, A - shank diameter, l - length of the working part , L - drill length.

To drill holes in wood along the grain, spiral drills with conical sharpening (Fig. 1, b) of the long and short series are used. Drills of the short series have a diameter of 2...12mm, length 45...145mm, long series - diameter of 5...2mm, length 130...210mm.

To cut out plugs and seal knots, cylindrical files with an ejector are used (Fig. 1, c, d). In addition, for drilling holes in wood, spiral drills with a cylindrical shank are used, equipped with hard alloy plates, with a diameter of 5...16mm, length for the shortened series 70...138mm, for the normal series - 66...178mm.

Twist drills with a conical shank, equipped with carbide inserts, are available in diameters of 10, 30 mm, lengths of 140...275 mm for the short series and 168...324 mm for the normal series.

The simplest drilling machine is a regular hand drill. The drill is clamped in the chuck, the gears are adjusted manually or by an electronic speed controller. Drills that have a speed controller can be used as screwdrivers.

To drill a large number of workpieces, or make holes of precisely specified depth, a frame in which the drill is fixed is used as an addition to the electric drill. The bed allows, as mentioned above, to drill holes of precisely specified depth, but this does not exhaust its functions. The bed also allows you to drill holes at a certain angle, which is sometimes necessary, for example, for connecting bulky parts.

A drilling machine is a frame with an electric motor, the drive from which transmits rotation to a chuck with a drill. As a rule, a drilling machine is equipped with a greater number of speeds and greater capabilities compared to an electric drill.

Mechanical drilling is carried out using electric drills or special drilling machines. Electric drills are mainly used in carpentry and joinery work.

When drilling, you need to press the body of the electric drill with your hands, as a result of which it lowers along the guide posts, compressing the springs. After drilling is completed, the pressure stops and the body rises upward under the action of straightening springs. If it is necessary to drill a hole in another place, then the electric drill is moved, set to its original position and the whole process is repeated. Drilling machines are used to perform significant amounts of work on drilling holes in woodworking workshops. They are divided into vertical drilling and horizontal drilling, according to the number of spindles - into single and multi-spindle, and according to the feeding method - into mechanical and manual.

Drilling machines

a - vertical drilling; b-- horizontal drilling.

In a vertical drilling machine, the table moves up and down using a handwheel, and the drill head moves using a foot pedal.

The SVA vertical drilling machine with automatic feed is universal, as it allows you to drill any holes. This machine also has another modification that allows the use of manual feed. When attaching a platform (support) with lateral movement to the working table of a drilling machine and installing an end mill instead of a drill, it is possible to select longitudinal sockets.

The horizontal drilling machine SvGD-3 is designed for selecting horizontal longitudinal nests. It has a bed, a working shaft, a spring, a working table and a support. The workpiece is fixedly secured with a spring, pushing a spindle with a drill onto it. The work table is moved horizontally with a handle, and in the vertical direction with a handwheel. The feed mechanism of some machines is designed differently - the working shaft with the drill that processes the part is fixedly fixed.

A horizontal drilling machine consists of an electric motor, spindle, carriage, carriage and drill feed levers, and a clamp for strengthening the workpiece. The spindle can be moved along the axis of the drill, and the carriage in the transverse direction.

This machine can drill not only round holes, but also rectangular ones. To obtain rectangular holes, you must first drill a number of round ones, and then, using a transverse movement of the carriage, combine them into a common oblong hole. When working on machines and with electrified tools, you must follow safety regulations.

The density of the metal is so high that special tools and mechanisms must be used to process it. In order to make a hole in this material, drills and drilling machines are used, in which the main cutting element is drills.

Which metal drills are better? It is not easy to determine, because there are universal products that would be suitable for processing all types metal products, does not exist. Experienced master will be able to “by eye” determine the type of metal and quickly select a suitable cutting tool for processing.

A beginner in this business needs to start with the basics. First, study the classification of drills and their scope of application, because the best models are products that are ideal for processing a specific type of metal.

What types of drills are there, according to markings and appearance Find out in this article how to choose the right product for the job.

To choose the best models, you need to understand the types of drills.

Spiral

Classic, cylindrical drills that are most often used for drilling metals. Typically, spiral products are made of HSS steel.

The material is a high-quality cutting type of steel, so the gimlets made from it are highly durable and durable.

Conical (stepped)

The cutting surface has the shape of a cone, which is why this type of drill got its name. Conical drills are used to make holes in thin metal, as well as to correct defects from other cutting tools.

The energy consumption for making a hole in this way is several times lower, due to the small contact area of ​​the tool with the surface being processed.

The advantage of using this type of drill over others is the production of holes large diameter. In this case, it is possible to obtain better quality edges than when working with spiral models.

Feathers

A special type of flat gimlet with replaceable working edges is used for drilling metal. Such products allow you to make high-quality, perfectly straight holes.

No distortion during the drilling process and the ability to make a large diameter hole in various metal structures, allows many craftsmen to abandon the use of spiral products.

The low cost of feather drills allows in many cases of metal processing to call them the best for drilling holes.

These are the main types of drills used for making holes in metal structures.

Classification of drills by material of manufacture

Which metal drills are the best for drilling particularly strong alloys is quite simple to answer:

1. To process such material, you should choose products that have a plate of increased hardness on the cutting edge. Such gimlets are the best for processing hard alloys.
2. The price of such products is low due to the fact that the main body of the cutting tool is made of ordinary tool steel.

Drills made of metal alloyed with cobalt have good characteristics.

They can withstand increased mechanical loads and excessive heating of the working surface during operation. The cost of the products is high, but if it is necessary to make holes in a hard alloy, then cobalt analogues are the best for performing such work.

Titanium drills are not inferior in strength to cobalt drills, and when drilling alloy steels and non-ferrous alloys they show even better results.

At correct use, titanium models for a long time retain factory sharpening, which will allow you to perform a significantly larger amount of work.

Inexpensive metal drills are made from ordinary high-speed steel P9 and P18. The cutting tool copes with its function perfectly, but the working surface quickly becomes dull, especially when a certain temperature threshold is exceeded.

Marking of cutting products

Marking drills for metal is necessary to determine the type of steel from which the cutting tool is made. The product also indicates its diameter, accuracy class and manufacturer (country). Only spiral gimlets with a diameter of less than 2 mm are not marked.

In other cases, drill markings may have the following meanings:

• P9 - made of high-speed steel with a tungsten percentage of 9%.
• P9K15 - indicates the presence of cobalt in the high-speed steel in an amount of 15%.
• Р6М5К5 - indicates the presence of a complex composition of cutting steel containing tungsten, cobalt and molybdenum.

Imported products have the HSS designation, which can be used to determine the composition of the material from which the drill was made. The HSS drill, which will be explained below, is used with an additional letter, which determines the presence of alloying metal.

HSS marking:

• HSS-E - contains cobalt. Used in processing metals of high viscosity.
• HSS-Tin - has titanium coating, which significantly increases the hardness of the working surface, and the temperature resistance of the material increases to +600 degrees.
• HSS-E VAP is a cutting tool used for processing stainless materials.
• HSS-4241 - designed for drilling aluminum.
• HSS-R - have maximum strength.

By marking the cutting tool, you can determine for what metal and in what mode the drill can be used. If the marking is not visible, then the purpose of the drill can be determined by the color of the product.

Visual identification of drill type

By the appearance of the cutting gimlet, you can determine the type of material from which the products are made and thereby find out mechanical strength sample. By color you can determine the composition and quality of workmanship.

Grey

Drills gray are made of metal that has not been subjected to any additional processing.

Tool quality, in in this case, leaves much to be desired, but for one-time use such products are quite suitable.

Black

This color indicates that the tool was treated with superheated steam. During processing, the product acquires greater strength.

It perfectly tolerates numerous cycles of heating and cooling of the metal, and also maintains the sharpening of the working surface for a long time.

The price of black metal drills is not much higher than gray products, so if you have a choice, you should give preference to tools of this type when purchasing.

Dark golden

This color indicates that the cutting tool has been tempered. This type of processing significantly increases the mechanical strength of the product as a result of reducing internal stresses.

With a tempered drill, you can successfully process high-strength metals, so if you are drilling too hard alloys, it is recommended to purchase a similar model.

Bright golden

The bright golden color indicates that metal made with the addition of titanium was used in production.

Despite the high cost of such models, it is much more practical to purchase a high-quality drill than to use cheap ones cutting tools, which at complex work will need to be used in large quantities.

Thus, it is easy to determine the quality of products by appearance and decide which metal drills are best to buy.

Classification by size

To choose the most best drill and at the same time not to overpay, it is enough to know what length sizes these products are usually divided into. If drilling metal does not require making deep holes, then purchasing models that are too long will lead to cost overruns.

It is customary to classify drills by length as follows:

1. Short, 20-131 mm long. Tool diameters are in the range of 0.3-20 mm.
2. Elongated, length is 19-205 mm, and diameter is 0.3-20 mm.
3. Long series with a diameter of 1-20 mm and a length of 56-254 mm.

When performing drilling work of various depths, you should select the tool that is most suitable for the specific task.

The best manufacturers

To purchase drills and be sure that the declared characteristics are completely true, you need to choose the right manufacturer.

Companies that value their reputation do not sell products of inadequate quality. Therefore, when choosing metal drills, you should give preference to manufacturers who have been on the market for a long time.

Among the newcomers, there may also be worthy producers. But in order to find out that a good quality product is on sale, you need to make a purchase, which often represents a “lottery”.

The best manufacturing companies:

1. Bosch - products of the German company have long proven themselves only on the positive side. Despite quite high price products, when purchasing Bosch drills, you can rest assured of excellent quality. It is convenient and profitable to purchase tools from this company as a set.

Whichever set of drills you take, any one will only contain highest quality products that will last for many years, provided proper storage and use.

2. “Zubr” is a domestic manufacturer whose products are maximally optimized in terms of price-quality ratio. You can purchase the products of this company either in a single copy or in the form of a set. The latter option will significantly save money, despite the significant cost of the kit.

3. Soviet-made drills - this category of cutting tools can be classified as an “endangered species.” With due diligence, you can purchase a rarity that has unsurpassed technical characteristics.

A drill is one of the most frequently used tools for every craftsman. But even if a person is not engaged in furniture making or construction, the presence of a drill in household will never be superfluous. Because a drill can not only drill holes in metal, wood, plastic or brick, the range of applications of this tool is much wider:

Impact drills are capable of drilling holes in concrete walls;

Using special drills you can drill holes in glass and tiles;

Using the mixer attachment, the drill can be used to prepare cement mortar and mixing dry construction mixtures;

With special attachments, the drill can be used to clean parts from old paint or cleaning metal from rust;

There are even attachments that turn the drill into a jigsaw, saw or router;

You can also use a drill in the kitchen instead of a mixer.

It would take a long time to list the areas in which a drill is used: it is used everywhere. But each master has his own working conditions and his own requirements for the tool. There is no universal drill that will work well in every job. And before purchasing, you should understand the characteristics and options of modern drills in order to get an effective tool for a reasonable price.

Drill characteristics.

Power- the most important characteristic of a drill, which largely determines the capabilities of the tool, so the power is often given in the name of the model. Unfortunately, among inexpensive drills there are often cases of overestimation of power, so in order not to be disappointed in your purchase, choose drills from well-known manufacturers. Or immediately subtract 10 percent in your mind from the declared power.

Drills with power below 600 W are suitable for drilling drywall, aerated concrete and wood. Wood with such drills can only be drilled with twist drills to a shallow depth; It is not recommended to use feather drills or Forstner drills with this drill. You can drill small diameter holes in thin iron (up to 3mm). You shouldn’t drill tough metals (copper, aluminum) with low-power drills - even small-diameter drills will jam. Such drills can also have problems with brick and, especially, concrete, even if the tool has an impact mode.

Drills with a power of 600-900 W can be considered optimal for use in everyday life and household use. With such drills you can use the entire range of drills and attachments, with the exception of only Lewis spirals with a diameter of more than 20 mm and mixer attachments.

Drills with a power of 1 kW or more are more suitable for professionals. Yes, with this tool you can drill a large diameter through hole in a thick wooden beam or mix 50 liters of putty. But for everyday tasks, a heavy, large-sized drill may be inconvenient.

Maximum drilling diameter. For ease of selection, many manufacturers provide maximum drilling diameters for wood, metal and concrete. Unfortunately, these values ​​should be used with caution, since nothing is said about the thickness of the material. Don’t be fooled by seeing in the characteristics of a 400 W drill a maximum metal drilling diameter of 10 mm - most likely, by metal the manufacturer meant foil.

Under maximum chuck diameter This refers to the maximum diameter of the drill that can be clamped in the chuck. The maximum diameter usually corresponds to the capabilities of the tool. Low-power drills are equipped with a small chuck for drill diameter up to 10 mm, in the chucks of powerful drills you can clamp special attachments and drills of large diameter

Chuck type. The chuck is designed for fastening drills and bits. Several types of cartridges are used:

Key cartridge still remains the most common. It is inexpensive and provides reliable fixation of the drill. But it is not very convenient, and to tighten and loosen it you need a special key (which can easily get lost).

Keyless chuck is clamped simply by hand effort and provides good fixation. It is easy and convenient to work with, but it is more expensive than the key one. And when it is necessary to transfer a large torque to the drill, the degree of fixation of such a clamp may no longer be enough. But for a household drill, this type of chuck is optimal.

The quick-release chuck can be double-clutch or single-clutch. A single-sleeve chuck for drill replacement requires a spindle lock. On different models spindle locking is implemented in different ways: on some, it is automatically locked when the engine is stopped, on others, to lock, you must press the corresponding button or slide the locking ring. The double-sleeve chuck must be clamped with both hands.

MK2, MK3 (MT3) implies seat under a drill or attachment with a Morse taper. This connection ensures reliable fixation and high accuracy centering heavy bits and drills. To use regular drills, you will need an adapter.

G 1/2” and 1 1/4” UNC– specialized cartridge for connection diamond bits on concrete, used in drills for diamond drilling.

Weldon 19 mm– a special chuck for reliable fixation of heavy bits, cutters and drills of large diameter. An adapter is required to use standard drills.

7/16 Hex– a chuck for a 7/16" hex shank is used in drills from Milwaukee and some other manufacturers. An adapter is required to use standard drills.

Drills designed for drilling with cores and large-diameter drills have a high torque, therefore they are equipped with power handles with a large shoulder. But sometimes (when drilling large-diameter holes in concrete or metal) it is simply impossible to hold the drill with your hands. In this case, a special type of drill is used. When using diamond bits, the drill is mounted on drill stand, and for drilling metal there are drills on magnetic stand, which are a small drilling machine that is magnetized to the metal being processed.

By type of instrument drills are divided into unstressed And drums. Impact drills have a hammer drilling mode - in which the chuck, in addition to rotational movement, also imparts reciprocating (shock) impulses to the drill. This makes it easier to drill concrete, cast and natural stone. But you should not hope that an impact drill can replace a hammer drill - the impact force of even the most powerful impact drills is significantly inferior to the impact force of most hammer drills.

In addition, the peculiarities of the impact mechanism of drills lead to the fact that with frequent use of this function, the force of the impacts decreases, and after some time the drill practically turns into a shockless one. This happens especially quickly in inexpensive models with a hammer mechanism made of cheap soft metal.

Some drills, however, contain a mechanism similar to those used in hammer drills. Such drills are easily distinguished by the presence of a chiselling mode, in which the chuck moves back and forth without rotation.

Maximum idle speed determines the maximum speed at which the drill chuck can rotate. High rotation speed (2500 – 4000 rpm) is necessary for drilling hard materials with thin drills: hard metals, glass, ceramics. It is better to drill iron at medium speed (500 - 1500 rpm), depending on the diameter of the drill. Wood is drilled at low speed (500-1000 rpm).

On the one hand, a large maximum speed increases the versatility of the tool, and on the other hand, the majority of everyday tasks do not require high speed. In addition, the drill produces maximum power at maximum speed. Thus, a 600 watt drill with a maximum rotation speed of 4500 rpm at a drilling speed of 2000 rpm will be weaker than a 600 watt drill with a maximum rotation speed of 2000 rpm.

Maximum number of hits determines the frequency with which reciprocating movements are performed in drilling mode with a hammer impact. Contrary to popular belief, the frequency of impacts of an impact drill is weakly related to chiselling performance, since the higher the frequency, the smaller the amplitude of the chuck’s movements. A large maximum number of impacts indicates small teeth on ratchet gears, which will wear out faster than large ones. Based on this, it is better to prefer a model with a small maximum number impacts - this will not affect performance, but the impact mechanism will last longer.

Nutrition Drills, like many other tools, can be either corded or cordless. Cordless drills have all the basic functions of corded drills, and from cordless screwdrivers characterized by a higher rotation speed of the chuck and - usually - the absence of a ratchet.

But there are also a number of cordless drills and screwdrivers on sale, equipped with a ratchet and a speed controller. At maximum speed, such a tool is capable of drilling hard metals, and at minimum speed it can be used for installation/disassembly. Unfortunately, the price of such a tool is quite high.

Availability reverse functions in a drill, it allows you to change the direction of rotation of the chuck. This makes it easier to remove the drill from deep holes and allows you to free a jammed drill. Also, a drill with reverse can be used to unscrew self-tapping screws and self-tapping screws.

Drilling depth limiter may be useful when a hole needs to be drilled not through, but to a specified depth. It is convenient when the limiter also has markings by which you can set the depth of the hole.

Locking the power button will allow you not to be afraid of accidentally turning on the drill. The presence of this option is practically necessary for a household drill if there are children in the house.

Safety clutch prevents the tool from jerking when the drill or attachment jams. This option is important for powerful professional drills with high torque, which in the case of a wedge are simply impossible to hold in your hands.

Choices.

If you need a lightweight, inexpensive tool for drilling small holes in wood, drywall, and more. soft materials, you can choose a drill in the lower price range. If you don't give it heavy loads, it can last quite a long time.

If you need a universal home drill that can drill slots for door locks in the door leaf or to drill a hole for dowels for the cabinet, then choose from a tool with a power of 600 W or more and an impact drilling function.

If independence from mains electricity is important to you, choose from cordless drills. True, they are more expensive than network ones with the same characteristics.

If you need a drill to work with large diameter Lewis spirals, choose from powerful drills with a safety clutch.

To make clean, large-diameter holes in concrete walls, you will need a diamond drill.

To drill large diameter holes in metal, you can use drills with a magnetic stand.

Drilling is an operation to form through and blind holes in a solid material, performed using a cutting tool - a drill.

There are manual drilling - with manual pneumatic and electric drilling devices (drills) and drilling on drilling machines. Manual drilling devices are used to produce holes with a diameter of up to 12 mm in materials of low and medium hardness (plastics, non-ferrous metals, etc.). To drill and process large-diameter holes, increase labor productivity and processing quality, desktop drilling and stationary machines - vertical drilling - are used.

Holes are drilled:

· According to preliminary marking(made with a marking tool), single holes are drilled according to the markings. First, axial marks are applied to the part, then the recesses in the center of the hole are cored. The core hole of the circle is made deeper to give preliminary direction to the drill. Drilling is carried out in two steps - first, test drilling is performed, and then final drilling.

· By template– using a template saves time, since the contours of the holes previously marked on the template are transferred to the workpiece.

· Large diameter holes drill in two steps - first with a drill of a smaller diameter, and then with a drill of the required diameter.

· Drilling blind holes to a specified depth carried out along the sleeve stop on the drill or measuring ruler. To measure, the drill is brought into contact with the surface of the part, drilled to the depth of the drill cone and the initial position on the ruler is marked with an arrow (pointer). Then the specified drilling depth is added to this indicator and a figure is obtained to which drilling must be carried out.

· Drilling partial holes (half holes) in cases where the hole is located at the edge, a plate of the same material is placed on the workpiece, clamped in a vice and a full hole is drilled, then the plate is removed.

· Drilling for threads and reaming.

There are general rules for drilling (both on a machine and with a drill):

* in the process of marking work, the center of the future hole must be marked with a center punch, then during operation the drill is installed in the core, which contributes to greater accuracy;

* when choosing the diameter of a drill, one should take into account its vibration in the chuck, as a result of which the hole is obtained with a slightly larger diameter than the drill. This deviation is quite small - from 0.05 to 0.3 mm - and is important when special accuracy is required;

* when drilling metals and alloys, as a result of friction, the temperature of the cutting tool (drill, countersink) increases significantly, which leads to rapid wear. In order to increase the durability of tools, cooling liquids, in particular water, are used when drilling;

* dull cutting tools not only form poor-quality holes, but also fail faster, so they should be sharpened in a timely manner: drills - at an angle (at the apex) of 116-118º, conical countersinks - 60, 90, 120º. Sharpening is done manually on a sharpening machine: the drill is placed against a circle sharpening machine one of the cutting edges at an angle of 58-60º and smoothly rotate it around its axis, then sharpen the second cutting edge in the same way.

In this case, it is necessary to ensure that both cutting edges are sharpened at the same angle and have the same length;

· for drilling blind holes, many drilling machines have automatic feed mechanisms with dials, which determine the stroke of the drill to the required depth. If your machine is not equipped with such a mechanism or you drill with a hand drill, then you can use a drill with a sleeve stop;

* if you need to drill an incomplete hole located at the edge of a part, then place a plate of the same material on the part, secure the entire package in a vice and drill a hole. The plate is then removed;

* when it is necessary to drill a hole in a complete part (for example, in a pipe), the hole is first clogged with a wooden plug. If the pipe is large in diameter and a through hole is required, then you have to drill from both sides.

In this case, to make marking easier and more accurate, you can use a special device. It consists of two completely identical prisms, between which the pipe is clamped. Each prism has counter center screws, precisely aligned against each other, clamped at their opposite vertices. The prisms are also precisely aligned using the side cheeks. When the pipe is clamped between the prisms, small holes from the punch screws remain on it, located opposite each other. After drilling according to such markings, the holes in the pipe will correspond to each other with much greater accuracy;

* you can get stepped holes in two ways: the first method: first, a hole of the smallest diameter is drilled, then (to the required depth) a hole of a larger diameter is drilled, and the hole of the largest diameter is drilled last; the second method: exactly the opposite: first, a hole of the largest diameter is drilled to the required depth, then a smaller one, and finally the smallest diameter;

* if you need to drill a hole on a curved plane or a plane located at an angle, then you should first make (cut, cut out) a platform perpendicular to the axis of the future hole, punch the center, and then drill the hole;

* holes with a diameter over 25 mm are drilled in two steps: first, drill the hole with a drill of a smaller diameter (10...20 mm), and then drill it out with a drill required diameter;

* when drilling parts with a large thickness (deep drilling), when the depth of the hole is more than five diameters of the drill, it must be periodically removed from the hole and blown out chips, otherwise the tool may jam;

* composite (consisting of several dissimilar layers) materials are difficult to drill, primarily because cracks appear on them during processing. This can be very avoided in a simple way: before drilling, such material must be filled with water and frozen - in this case cracks will not appear;

* high-strength materials – steel, cast iron – regular drills they don't take it. For drilling them, drills with tips made of so-called pobedit are very popular among mechanics. It was produced in Russia in 1929, it consists of 90% tungsten carbide and 10% cobalt. For the same purpose, you can get a diamond drill, the tip of which is made using synthetic diamonds - it significantly increases the speed of drilling metal.