Install heating and underfloor heating. How to make a heated floor from central heating

Providing underfloor heating during the construction of a private house is not an easy task, but it can be solved. It is much more difficult to make a water heated floor from the existing heating of a country cottage or apartment. How to correctly install and connect heating circuits in such a situation with your own hands, read in this article.

Planning and selection of materials

To successfully integrate heated floors into an existing heating system, you must first resolve several serious issues:

Get permission to connect to the network central heating, if we are talking about an apartment in a multi-storey building.
Find out what height can be allocated for the “pie” of underfloor heating without raising the thresholds of interior doors.
Determine connection points to the existing system and rationally select a diagram.
Prepare building materials, pipes and plumbing fixtures.

Each item of the preparatory plan is proposed to be considered separately.

Is it possible to connect to the central heating system

You can’t just take and embed heating circuits into common apartment risers. Underfloor heating will take away a significant portion of the heat from your neighbors, who will file a complaint with the management company, and you will receive a large fine for unauthorized interference with the network.

Advice. Do not connect to risers at your own risk. Try to complete the permit properly. If you receive a clear refusal, think about heating with electric warm floors.

When can we hope for a positive solution to the issue:

in a new building with individual heating inputs from a common riser passing through the technical rooms;
in a ground floor apartment with an upper coolant supply or a separate connection from the basement;
in a dwelling on the top floor with a lower distribution of the supply line.

With vertical wiring, approval can be obtained by the owner of the upper apartment when the coolant is supplied from below

The idea of apartment connection is based on the fact that the batteries in your apartment are the last ones. Additional load on the riser in the form of heating circuits will not harm the neighbors. True, the organization that supplies heat energy has the right to demand the installation of an individual metering unit and the development of design documentation. It is problematic for residents of other apartments to obtain permission.

Determining the thickness of the “pie”

The main problem when installing water underfloor heating in a residential building is the small distance from the base of the floor (floor slabs) to the bottom of the doorway. Usually this height is equal to the thickness of the screed and is 6-10 cm. The situation with wooden floors is similar - the width of the joists where the covering boards are laid lies in the range of 50-150 mm.

Important point. Before installing a heated floor in a habitable apartment, existing screed will have to be smashed to the ground, and wood flooring completely disassemble. Otherwise, the “pie” will not fit, and raising the door thresholds or making a step at the entrance is an unconstructive solution.

There is only 1 way to fit heating circuits into a thickness of 50 mm - use a flooring system with metal plates - heat distributors, shown in the diagram. The composition of the “pie” will look like this:

layer of dense polymer insulation 30 mm;
metal plates with grooves;
heating pipes Ø16 mm;
thin flooring - laminate or tiles when it comes to the bathroom.

Reference. For laying heat distribution plates, special polystyrene foam mats with bosses or ready-made wooden modules.

Because of high price For such systems, craftsmen often suggest installing plates between boards 2-2.5 cm thick, laid on a layer of 8-10 mm polyethylene foam (Penofol). We do not recommend implementing such solutions - a small thermal insulation layer will transmit the lion's share of heat to the neighbors below or into the basement of a private house.

When the height of the thresholds is 10 cm, monolithic heated floors with screed are installed. Polystyrene slabs 30-40 mm thick are laid in the base, the remaining 6-7 cm are left for screed and finishing coating.

Scheme of the “pie” of heated floors with screed

Connection diagrams for heating circuits

One of critical issues, which must be decided before starting work, is how to connect a water-heated floor to an existing heating system. We offer the following options:

In an apartment with individual heat input - according to the classical scheme with a mixing unit installed in the hallway. The cabinet with the collector is neatly sealed inside the wall.
In a private house, it is advisable to connect directly from a gas or other boiler, using a distribution comb and a mixing unit.
In apartments with two-pipe risers, connect the circuit of each room directly to the network near the heating radiators. Temperature regulation is carried out by thermal heads of the RTL type.
In apartment buildings with single-pipe risers, it is impossible to do without installing mixing units with a circulation pump.

Connection diagram for apartment-to-apartment heat distribution

Note. Connecting heated floors to heating mains without a pump and mixing unit can be implemented in almost any two-pipe system. How to do this correctly, read below.

The coolant coming from the boiler or from the centralized heating network has a temperature of 50-90 ° C, which is unacceptable for heated floors. The temperature graph of the heating circuit lies in the range of 35-45 °C, maximum – 55 °C (if the pipes are embedded in a screed).

Scheme of connecting heated floors to the boiler through a two-way valve

To prepare water at the required temperature, mixing units with two or three way valve and a circulation pump pumping coolant through the circuits. In centralized heating systems it is better to use a circuit with a two-way valve, in individual ones - with a three-way valve.

Reference. The quality of the coolant in central heating networks is too low - the water is saturated with rust and other impurities. The simpler and more reliable it is to select equipment, the longer it will last without problems.

Connection diagram for underfloor heating to the boiler via a three-way valve

Separate connection of the circuits to two-pipe mains is made through thermal heads of the RTL type, which limit the reverse flow of coolant when the outlet water temperature exceeds the set value. Mixing units, manifolds and circulation pumps are not used.

Branch connection diagram without additional pump

To connect a heated floor, it is enough to buy a ready-made block with a thermostatic tap and an RTL head placed inside a neat plastic box. Similar products are offered by the well-known Oventrop brand, the name is RTL Unibox.

Connection diagram to a single-pipe vertical system

Available about various options An expert will tell you how to connect underfloor heating to an existing system in his video:

We select building materials and components

When you have chosen the correct connection diagram, calculate required quantity materials are quite simple. You need to find out the area of the kitchen, bedroom and other rooms where you plan to install heated floors. Plus choose the laying scheme and distance between the pipes.

Also used when installing heated floors consumables– damper tape (adhesive around the perimeter of the room), clips for attaching pipes and waterproofing film placed under the insulation. The screed is used with a ready-made construction mixture, the consumption of which is indicated on the packaging.

For “dry” type heating circuits, you will have to buy polystyrene plates with bosses and heat distribution plates (preferably made of aluminum). Modular sets made of wood will cost more. A budget option is to run pipes between ordinary boards 20 mm thick, laid on top of the insulation with your own hands.

Advice. If the height difference between the base and doorways is 10-20 cm (for example, on a balcony, loggia), increase the thickness of the “pie” using insulation. That is, take thermal insulation boards not 30, but 50 or 100 mm. The result is increased energy efficiency of premises and heat savings.

Monolithic heated floor installation technology

After dismantling floor structures - screeds or wooden joists - the base should be cleaned and leveled for installation thermal insulation boards. and fill the corners with mortar, knock down the bumps and sagging. Take out the trash and remove as much dust as possible (ideally with a special construction vacuum cleaner).

The step-by-step technology for installing heated floors in a residential apartment looks like this:

Note. Instead of waterproofing film, it is allowed to use Penofol with a thickness of 4-5 mm, laying it with the foil up. The canvases are placed without overlap and taped with aluminum tape.

When using regulation using RTL thermal heads, the length of the pipeline in the circuit should not exceed 60 m, otherwise the room will heat up unevenly. Carry out a leak test with a working pressure of 3 bar country house and 6-7 Bar in an apartment with centralized heating. Maintain the specified pressure for 24 hours.

After making sure that the connections are tight, proceed to pouring the screed without emptying the contours. The minimum thickness of the cement-sand monolith is 5 cm, the maximum is 10 cm. In order not to make mistakes in the proportions during the preparation of the solution, it is recommended to work with a ready-made dry mixture for pouring floors containing a plasticizer.

Further work on connecting the heated floors to the existing heating network is carried out after 20-28 days (the exact hardening period is indicated on the bags of the building mixture). The contours are attached according to the chosen scheme, after which the finishing coating is laid. The technology for installing underfloor heating is clearly shown in the video.

Underfloor heating device without screed

Using a wooden modular system or mats equipped with bosses, it is not difficult to create warm floors. The difference from the previous technology is the absence of a cement screed and the laying of the finishing coating directly on the insulation or boards.

There is an easier and cheaper way to accommodate water contours at a height difference of 5 cm:

Lay 50 mm thick extruded polystyrene foam boards with side connection locks on top of the waterproofing.
Mark the pipe laying routes on the insulation and cut grooves for them using a thermal knife or a sharp tool.
Install metal plates in the grooves and lay the pipelines.
Lay laminate or other thin covering.

The remaining work on testing and connecting the heated floor to the existing heating mains is carried out using the technology described in the previous section.

Conclusion

Before installing floor heating inside a habitable apartment with a working heating system, make sure that it is technically possible to connect and lay pipes into the thickness of the floors. If the height difference between the base and the door opening does not reach 5 cm, there are 2 options left: raise the thresholds and door frames or abandon the idea. The decision depends on the desire to install a warm floor and the budget that you are willing to allocate for construction.

Design engineer with more than 8 years of experience in construction.
Graduated from Eastern Ukrainian National University them. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronics Industry Equipment in 2011.

“Heated floor” systems are rapidly gaining popularity among owners of private suburban housing and city apartments, and many of them have the question: “How to make a heated floor from heating.” This is not surprising - such a heat exchange scheme in the room is the most effective and economical - heated air from the floor is evenly heated rises up, creating an optimal comfortable temperature distribution without the formation of horizontal convection currents.

There are a lot of underfloor heating schemes - they can be, that is, with the laying of pipes for the circulation of liquid coolant, and electrical, in which they are used various schemes heating from power supply. Due to the fact that electricity cannot be called cheap, many homeowners pay increased attention to the “water” circuit. Moreover, the owners of city apartments are tempted to take advantage of the central heating circuit, that’s why in Internet search engines in the top queries there is always the following: “how to make a heated floor.”

Unfortunately, many articles on this topic begin with the fact that the reader is presented with the most rosy prospects, for example, “the installation of such a warm floor is not difficult and can easily be done on your own.” Is this true? Practice shows that the equipment of such a system will require considerable effort to overcome a variety of problems, both purely technological and administrative in nature.

The purpose of this publication is not so much step by step instructions on independent equipment of a water heated floor system from heating, as well as an overview of all the complex issues in the implementation of this project with options for their possible resolution. Having assessed the scale of the work, the nature of the difficulties ahead and own strength It is likely that some apartment owners will decide in favor of one that is much easier to install.

Administrative difficulties

First of all, we need to point out that the installation of such a “warm floor” with a connection to central heating may be hindered by administrative barriers.

The central heating system is calculated taking into account the power of the boiler room, the throughput of heating mains, the pipe distribution system in multi-storey buildings, the number and total area of heated apartments and many other factors. The insertion of additional heating circuits, especially those of considerable length, will certainly affect the overall parameters of the system. It’s good if the power of the boiler room and wiring capabilities allow you to compensate heat losses, but this does not always happen. Thus, residents of apartments connected to one riser may feel a decrease in the temperature of the heating radiators, which will lead to complaints about the work of utility workers.

Therefore, the installation of additional underfloor heating circuits requires mandatory approval from the organization providing heat supply to an apartment building, and it is not a fact that it will agree to this. Of course, there are always “smart guys” who can connect “pirate-style”, without notifying housing and communal services specialists, but sooner or later this is discovered and ends with the imposition of considerable penalties.

As a rule, permission can be given if the apartment is located at the very end of the heating circuit. For example, with a heat supply scheme from bottom to top, there should be no special problems for owners of apartments on the highest floor - the extraction of additional thermal energy will not in any way affect other residents of the house. Conversely, when top heat supply is used, the owners of an apartment on the first floor will have this advantage. But in both cases, the heat supply organization will most likely require the installation of an additional heat energy meter for individual calculation of payment for its consumption.

Managers or heat supply organizations can meet halfway even if the apartment heating system does not use a common coolant, but energy transfer carried out through a special device– heat exchanger. In this case, the “warm floor” circuit becomes autonomous to a certain extent, but a metering device for consumed heat will nevertheless still be required.

Only owners of apartments with autonomous system heating systems, that is, disconnected from the central network and installed their own gas or electric boiler and a closed circuit that is not connected to the outside. This, of course, means that the installation of your own heat generator (boiler) and “autonomization” have already received appropriate approval in advance. But even in this case, one will have to face considerable difficulties, only now of a technological nature. This will be discussed below.

Possible solutions for laying “warm floor” pipes

If there are problems conciliatory character is no longer there, then the issues with the system for laying the “warm floor” circuits have to be resolved. Here you will have to deal with a lot of nuances - assessing the possibility of raising the floor level and additional load, purchasing high-quality components, creating reliable thermal insulation, choosing a laying scheme and technology for covering the floor over pipes. Let's talk about everything in order.

How much will the floor surface rise?

This factor should be taken into account in advance, even before all subsequent work begins. The water “warm floor” system itself implies reliable thermal insulation of the base, so that expensive energy is not wasted simply on heating the floor slabs between floors.

For apartments located above heated rooms, a 30 mm layer of standard insulation (for example, extruded polystyrene) is considered sufficient. In the case when such heating is installed on the ground floor, under which there is a cold basement or basement, or ground, a layer of at least 50 mm, and sometimes up to 100 mm, will be required.

Installation of a “warm floor” always leads to a significant increase in the height of the covering

But that's not all. You should add the thickness of the screed, which will cover the pipes and act as a powerful thermal energy accumulator. That is, you need to add at least another 50 mm. Plus to this is the thickness of the finishing floor covering. The total will result in a general rise in surface level. Based on this result, you can assess whether this can be done in an apartment.

It is possible to do without a concrete screed, thereby reducing the height of the floor.

For this purpose, a system of laying pipes in heat-exchange metal plates is used, which are installed in ready-made wooden modules, slatted or joist structures, or in thermal insulation mats.

One of the options for placing plates is on slatted logs

In this case, heat transfer is certainly somewhat reduced, but this is an inevitable price to pay for saving space.

In any case, a certain rise in the surface level cannot be avoided. If the “warm floor” system is planned only in separate rooms, this will lead to the formation of steps in the apartment, which is not entirely convenient in everyday life - a similar factor must also be kept in mind.

Thermal insulation mats

So, as already mentioned, laying “warm floor” pipes will require preliminary thermal insulation of the surface. Rolled foam polyethylene, even with foil, will clearly not be enough (with rare exceptions), and usually special mats are used for these purposes. They come in several types:

Flat polystyrene foam mats with a thickness of 30 to 50 mm with a foil coating and, ideally, with a laminating layer on which a marking grid is applied, making it easier to lay pipes according to the developed pattern.

To fix pipes to such mats, special clamps are used - “harpoons”, or, when pouring reinforced screed, pipes are attached to reinforcing mesh using polymer clamps - “ties”. In addition, for convenience, special mounting rails can be used.

Expanded polystyrene profile mats with special bosses, the location and height of which allow the pipes to be securely fixed in a given position.

Such mats with laminated coating and a system of locks for mutual interfacing - they create a single surface that no longer requires additional waterproofing.

Such mats are made from high-density polystyrene foam (more than 40 kg/m³), which guarantees that they can withstand the loads both from the poured screed and those arising during operation. Standard dimensions one such profile panel – 1.0 × 1.0 or 0.6 × 0.8 m. Thickness varies (without accounting boss heights) within 5 ÷ 50 mm, permissible pipe laying spacing is 50 mm or more (multiples of 50).

Such mats provide another advantage - their complex relief structure, along with the physical properties of polystyrene foam, provide excellent noise-absorbing effect.

Prices for mats for heated water floors

Mats for warm water floors

Which pipes are optimal for “warm floors”

Pipes in a “warm floor” system are installed with a view to a long period of use, during which their regular inspection will simply be impossible. That is why their choice should be treated with special care. What requirements should they meet:

Seamless pipes are unacceptable - they will not guarantee the safety of the circuit when the pressure in it increases.
For the same reason, any joints in the circuit should be avoided - this place is vulnerable to both blockages and leaks.
Pipes must have the necessary margin of safety - they are subject to load both from the coolant and external, from the weight of the screed, floor covering and dynamic loads. You should focus on a pressure resistance indicator of at least 8 ÷ 10 bar.
Pipes must have the highest performance corrosion resistance, resistance to the formation of scale deposits, chemical inertness. The “scourge” of pipelines is oxygen diffusion, and the optimal choice would be a material with a special protective layer against this process.
Not everyone may like the noise of water flowing through pipes. This means that the pipes must have an appropriate level of sound insulation.
Diameter - usually 16 or 20 mm pipes are used. An underestimation will lead to a sharp increase in hydraulic resistance and a decrease in heat transfer, and excessively thick pipes will significantly increase the thickness of the screed and lead to significant heat loss in the overall heating system.
Pipes should be purchased in one solid piece for the circuit, the length of which, with a diameter of 16 mm, should not be more than 60 - 80 meters. If this value is exceeded, a “closed loop” effect may appear in the circuit, when the pressure created by the circulation pump cannot cope with the internal hydraulic resistance. If this length is not enough to cover the entire area of the room, you will have to organize two or more separate circuits from one collector.

Which pipes are preferable for “warm floors”:

Metal-plastic pipes are great for underfloor heating systems, but with some caveats. Must be truly applied quality material, since there are frequent cases of rupture of the pipe body due to excess pressure. The problem, in fact, is not at all the unreliability of the structure itself, but the fact that the building materials market is oversaturated with low-quality fakes that do not stand up to criticism. In pursuit of a low price, it is not difficult to get into a very unpleasant situation - something that is easily eliminated, for example, in a water supply system, can have catastrophic consequences when a low-quality pipe is located in the thickness of the floor.

Another note is that the aluminum layer, in general, although resistant to corrosion, nevertheless, over time, under the influence of oxygen, gradually loses its qualities, becoming brittle. This significantly reduces the service life of such pipes. Therefore, when choosing a material, it is best to choose a variety with a special oxygen barrier.

Pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene have recently begun to hold the leading position in this area. A process of special polymer processing - “cross-linking” - creates additional three-dimensional intermolecular bonds, which ultimately gives excellent strength and flexibility of the pipe. The best pipes are marked RE-Xa, in which the degree of “crosslinking” reaches 80–90%. It’s even better if the “EVON” layer is included in the pipe structure - it almost completely blocks the possibility of oxygen diffusion.

In addition, some manufacturers reinforce PE-Ha pipes with a layer of overlap-welded aluminum, and such products become ideal for use in heating systems - they can withstand the most critical loads.

Recently, stainless steel corrugated pipes have begun to compete with polymer pipes. They have excellent flexibility, and the outer and inner layer of polyethylene coating makes them practically absolutely impenetrable.

Such pipes are produced in coils up to 50 meters, but have such a reliable fitting system that they can be extended even with the connections closed with a concrete screed.

Which styling “pattern” to choose

When drawing up installation schemes, one of two main methods with possible variations is usually used - “snail” or “snake”.

The “snail” or double “snake” schemes shown in the right figure are a little more difficult to install, but they provide more uniform heating of the floor surface, since the supply and return pipes are located in parallel friend to friend.

The pitch of laying the pipes can be different - it all depends on how insulated the room itself is and the effect expected from such a heating system. It is usually considered normal to place turns at a distance of 100 mm. You can create areas of increased heating by shortening this step, or, conversely, in those places where special heating is not required, significantly increase the distance.

Be that as it may, all ends of the circuits are reduced to one point - to the installation site of the distribution manifold, which will be discussed below.

Prices for water pipes and fittings

Water pipes and fittings

Features of connecting “warm floor” circuits to an existing heating system

The apartment owner who believes that it is enough to simply embed the contours of the “warm floor” into the heating risers of the house - supply and return - is deeply mistaken. This approach is simply impossible based on a number of considerations:

Water in narrow and long circuits will never begin to circulate independently - it will choose the path of least hydraulic resistance. Thus, a circulation pump becomes a mandatory element
In order to ensure the movement of the coolant with effective heat transfer, a device for equalizing pressure in the system is necessary, which will prevent stagnation or, conversely, the appearance of the effect of water hammer.
A drainage system is required accumulating in the air system.
The coolant in the central system is not always clean, and in order to prevent clogging of the “warm floor” circuits, it is necessary to install filters.
One of the main reasons is the need to necessarily reduce the temperature of the coolant. The water in central heating pipes can be heated to very high limits, sometimes reaching even 80 degrees, which absolutely not applicable for a "warm floor" system. Overheating of the surface negative will affect the integrity of the screed and thermal insulation layer and the condition of the final floor covering. Besides, it's too high temperature surface will create absolutely not comfortable the situation in the apartment. Practice shows that the optimal temperature for heating the coolant for a heated floor is a temperature of 35 - 40°, and it is not recommended to exceed it. This means that a special mixing unit is needed that will mix water from the supply and return to achieve the desired level of heating.

Of course, all this requires the installation of visual monitoring devices and parameter adjustment, manual or automatic.
And finally, not a single heat supply organization will give permission for any connection unless all the rules for the safe operation of the system are observed, its efficiency in terms of thermal energy consumption, if it at least to some extent interferes with the normal operation of central heating the entire building.

Amateur activity in such matters is not encouraged - there are several basic connection diagrams, which are developed on the basis of carefully carried out thermal and hydraulic calculations.

For example, when connecting “warm floor” collectors at the final section of the riser (the first or last floor, as discussed earlier), the diagram shown in the figure is usually used. It provides:

Inlet valve with a mandatory filter - “dirt filter” (1).
Valve on the return pipe of the circuit with check valve (2).
Three-way tap – mixer (3) with manual or servo-driven control.

If control is carried out in automatic mode, then it is connected to a temperature sensor - the control signal is shown in the diagram with a green dotted line.

Circulation (4) with a capacity corresponding to the total length of the circuits connected to the collectors.
To equalize the required pressure difference in the supply and return pipes, a bypass valve (5) is installed.
The “combs” of both collectors must have air vents(6) and drain valves (7) to drain the coolant for maintenance or repair work.

In the case when the underfloor heating system cuts directly into the coolant supply pipes (permission for this has been obtained, or in autonomous conditions home network heating) schemes should be slightly different:

Recommended schemes for connecting “warm floors” to heating risers

On the diagram "A" shows a connection using a two-way valve (2) connected to a thermostat. The faucet regulates only the total flow of water, without mixing, increasing or decreasing the pressure and, therefore, the rate of heat exchange. General adjustment is carried out by balancing valves (3 and 4). Pressure equalization is carried out by the bypass valve (8).
Scheme "b" descending from the first, and differs only in the presence of a direct bypass (jumper) between the collectors (8) with a valve designed to operate when the permissible pressure in the supply pipe is exceeded.
In the picture "V" a pipe connection unit with a three-way valve (11) installed on the return line is shown, redirecting the flow of cooled liquid to the supply line. This scheme is one of the simplest, but at the same time it is quite reliable.
Similar to it, but more advanced and easier to adjust - circuit "G" . Here, a three-way mixer (9) is installed on the supply pipe, providing direct mixing of hot and chilled water before entering the circulation pump (1).
The most perfect scheme is considered "d" with a four-way valve mixer, with manual adjustment, or equipped with a servo drive connected to a thermostat unit.

This adjustment gives the most accurate adjustment indicators, both for the temperature of the coolant and for the liquid in the “warm floor” circuits.

And finally, in the picture "e" The previously mentioned diagram of connecting a “warm floor” to a central heating system through a heat exchanger (14) is shown. Feature– mandatory presence of its own safety group (12), including its own control pressure gauge, overpressure valve and air vent, as well as installation of an expansion tank of a membrane operating principle (13), which will compensate for inevitable pressure drops.

To ensure the necessary replenishment of the coolant, a jumper (15) with a dirt filter can be installed, shut-off valve and a check valve.

If several “warm floor” circuits are connected to the collectors in parallel, another problem arises - uneven flow of coolant in them. Sometimes this even ends in hydrostatic “locking” - the liquid stops moving along one of them altogether, choosing the path with the least resistance. This, of course, can be dealt with by maintaining a precisely verified uniform length of all contours, but in practice this is extremely difficult to implement. There is only one way out - control valves are installed on the collector combs for each circuit, allowing the total flow to be balanced so that it is distributed evenly.

Shut-off and control valves on the manifold combs

In addition, similar shut-off valves makes it possible to turn off some heating zones in case of unnecessary use or in the event of emergency situations - for preventive maintenance or repairs.

Is it possible to assemble a similar wiring, mixing and fine-tuning system yourself? It is possible that if the apartment owner has the necessary knowledge in this area, he may succeed, but most often the help of a qualified specialist will be needed - commissioning work on such interdependent circuits will require a professional approach.

But in order to make the process of installing a “warm floor” from heating as easy as possible, equipment manufacturers offer ready-made integrated solutions - mixing and collector units various designs with already assembled elements, including a circulation pump, a system of mixers and taps, and instrumentation, and automatic or manual control. Thus, the apartment owners can, after consulting with specialists, choose the most acceptable option that best suits the specific installation conditions and suits the cost. The choice is quite large - such units are produced both for small rooms and capable of optimally distributing coolant flows over large areas.

As a rule, for such mixing units a manifold cabinet is provided, which can be completely hidden in a niche cut out in the wall. The location is selected for reasons of maximum simplification of the layout of the “warm floor” pipe system, access to the supply and return risers of the central heating system. With small heating areas and small dimensions of the unit itself, it is sometimes placed directly on the external wall.

The process of laying and connecting pipes, launching a “warm floor” system

Laying the contours of "warm floor" pipes is usually done in next sequence:

The condition of the subfloor is inspected. If necessary, its defects are eliminated - depressions and cracks are sealed with repair mortar, protruding places are cut down to a smooth surface. After removing debris and removing dust, it is necessary to apply a deep penetration primer - it will increase the strength of the base and create an additional waterproofing barrier.
A layer of waterproofing film with a thickness of at least 200 microns is covered. It should be on the surface of the walls at 150 ÷ 200 mm. Adjacent strips are laid overlapping with an overlap of 150 mm, the resulting seams are taped with durable construction tape.
A damper tape is attached along the entire perimeter of the wall, which will compensate for the thermal expansion of the future screed covering the pipes of the heating circuits. The height of the rise of the tape on the walls should correspond to the planned thickness of the screed plus another 20 ÷ 30 mm.
Thermal insulation mats are laid. It is also advisable to glue the joints with waterproof tape. If the polystyrene foam is not equipped with a reflective foil layer, it is also necessary to lay a thin foil backing made of polyethylene foam.
The pipes are laid out according to a pre-developed scheme. The layout begins from the manifold cabinet, and it should end here. To ensure the connection of the pipe to the collector, the necessary reserve must be left.
If profile mats are used, the pipes are fixed between the bosses. For even insulation panels, plastic fasteners and mounting strips are used. As an option, the pipes can be tied to the reinforcing mesh. It is best to carry out such actions with an assistant, who, as the coil unwinds and lays out, will immediately fix the pipe in the right place.

Laying the “warm floor” contour

Both terminals of each circuit are hermetically connected to the corresponding manifold in the distribution cabinet.

The next step is to check the tightness of the system. To do this, it is carried out - all circuits and elements of the mixing cabinet are filled with water under operating pressure. If it is possible to use compression equipment, then the pressure should even be increased by one and a half - two times. The filled system must remain in this position for at least a day, during which the pressure gauge readings and visual monitoring of the condition of the pipes and all fittings or threaded connections are carried out. If a leak or pressure drop is detected, the necessary repair measures are carried out and the pressure testing process is repeated. Only with a stable positive result can you proceed to closing the “warm floor” contours with a screed.

Closing the “warm floor” with a screed

carried out in the usual manner - with reinforcement, installation of a beacon system. Use concrete mortar of a grade strength of at least M200 with fine sand. It is highly desirable to add a plasticizing composition, which will make it easier to lay the mortar in difficult places (near pipes and on the protrusions of mounting strips or relief mats), and will help avoid the formation of air voids - they can not only reduce the strength of the coating, but also worsen the thermal characteristics of the heating system being created.

The thickness of the screed must be at least 50 mm. A layer that is too thick will disrupt the thermal balance and become an unnecessary load on both the pipes and the ceiling. Insufficient thickness of the screed will not ensure the safety of the contours from dynamic loads, and will not allow it to cope with the role of a heat accumulator.

Before pouring concrete, the pipes must be filled with coolant to prevent deformation of their walls as the weight load increases.

Until the screed has completely dried (3 - 4 weeks, depending on the type of solution used), it is forbidden to increase the temperature of the coolant in the system - the screed must gain strength at a stable temperature.

A completely dry concrete surface will become the basis for laying any type of finishing floor covering.

Video: screed option over “warm floor” pipes

If the use of “concrete” technology is impossible (due to the concept of the floor level being too high or due to the inadmissibility of a large load on the ceiling), “warm floors” are recommended to be laid in wooden modules using heat exchange plates, which were already mentioned above.

Laying “warm floor” pipes in wooden modules

Similar plates can also be used on profile mats, if you select them in full accordance with the diameter of the pipes and the distance between the bosses.

You can carry out a similar installation on profile mats...

Alternatively, even in ordinary mats of extruded polystyrene foam, grooves can be cut for installing heat exchange plates and then laying pipes in them.

... or even directly on XPS panels

On such a surface, after crimping, you can immediately lay the finishing floor covering. If you plan to lay laminate flooring, then only a foam polyethylene backing will be needed. In the case when linoleum or tiles will be laid on the floor, a layer of plywood (OSB, GVL) is first laid over the metal plates, and only then the finishing coating is installed.

And finally, the features of starting a “warm floor” system from heating. Under no circumstances should you immediately launch it on full power. Commissioning should be carried out in steps, with a smooth increase in the coolant temperature to the design temperature. It is recommended to extend this process over 3–4 days.

What is the conclusion from all of the above? Is it possible to call the process of creating a heated floor from existing system heating simple, which anyone can take on? Probably not. You should carefully weigh your desires and capabilities, think through all the stages of obtaining permission for installation and the practical implementation of the project, and, most likely, you will have to come to the conclusion that you cannot do without the help of qualified specialists in this matter.

TOP 7 best heated floors

Devi 330 W, 16.5 m

Devi 330 W, 16.5 m is an ideal option for heated floors for the kitchen. This is the best cable heated floor due to its long service life from the trusted Devi brand and the optimal length of 16.5 m, which allows you to cover an area of 2.6 m2. This is well suited for a kitchen with an area of 4-6 m2, taking into account a long row of work surfaces, sink, stove and washing machine, under which there is no need to heat the floor.

flexible structure is convenient for creating any turns and roundings;
complete freedom in styling shape (stripe, square, L-shape);
increased power of 330 W allows you to use the element as the main heating in the room;
easy installation in concrete screed;
Weighs only 1.7 kg, convenient for transportation;
two cables in the structure provide more heat;
interact with both electronic and mechanical thermostats.

The thermostat must be purchased separately;
Only suitable for tiles.

Electric heated floor Devi 330 W

Teplolux Eco 850 W, 60 m

This is the best underfloor heating cable for a large room, which is 60 meters long and allows you to heat 7 m2, which is effective in front of the bed and TV or in other frequently traveled places. The product is supplied in a coil, and the heating element is equipped with a gray insulating coating. Additionally, a tape is included to secure the cable in a certain shape. A power of 850 W allows the use of heated floors as the main source of heating.

can be placed in screed or tile adhesive;
it is allowed to use the cable under parquet, stone, tiles, carpet;
interacts with various thermostats;
light weight of 2.5 kg will not complicate delivery;
two cores inside provide increased heat transfer;
a thick layer of insulation protects against electric current.

cannot be laid under linoleum;
The connection cable has a large cross-section and is more difficult to hide unnoticed next to the outlet.

Electric heated floor Teplolux Eco 850 W, 60 m

Devimat DTIR-150, 450 W, 3 m2

This is the best heated mat floor for a loggia, because its width allows you to cover a long area of up to 6 m with a width of 500 mm. The cable is laid on a foil base and attached to a mesh, which simplifies unfolding. The power of 450 W is optimal for maintaining a comfortable temperature on the balcony. The kit includes a wire for connection, a coupling and corrugated protection. The thickness of 5 mm does not require a large layer of mounting adhesive.

cold end 4 m long for connection;
Teflon internal insulation;
aluminum foil for screening;
heating to a temperature of 90 degrees;
certified by all GOST, CE standards;
installation in tile adhesive is simpler;
There are two cores inside for greater efficiency;
Suitable for tiles, porcelain stoneware, parquet boards, carpet.

It is more difficult to cut the mat for separate placement according to the area.

Electric heated floor Devimat DTIR-150, 450 W, 3 m2

Equation 1260 W, 9 m2

This is the best heated floor for arranging a children's room due to the power of 1260 W, which allows you to use the mat as the main heating and will prevent children from catching a cold from playing on the floor. The cable is supplied in a green insulating sheath on a white mesh with a cold lead for connection and corrugated protection. It can heat up to 9 m2, which corresponds to most children's bedrooms.

two cores for increased heat transfer;
weight 3 kg;
power supply from a household network 220 V;
laying without screed in tile adhesive;
covers 9 m2 at once;
suitable for interaction with programmable thermostats;
can be laid under parquet boards, laminate, linoleum, porcelain stoneware.

You need a good thermostat that clearly monitors the duration of switching on so that the increased heating power does not lead to a fire.

Electric heated floor Equation 1260 W, 9 m2

Caleo Grid 220 W 3 m2

These are the best heated film floors for heating a bathroom, because the technology is completely fireproof and is designed to work under tiles. The film covers an area of 3 m2 and can be cut in 25 mm increments to shorten it if necessary. Thin strips of carbon paste are laid on an anti-spark mesh to prevent arson. The film power of 660 W is optimal for heating a small room and saving electricity consumption.

This is the best element for creating a water heated floor with an existing gas or solid fuel boiler, which allows you to lay the pipe across the entire area of the house without a single joint. The corrugated pipe easily bends at different angles, which is convenient for turns, steps and level changes. Stainless steel is not subject to corrosion, so it can be safely poured into a concrete screed and not be afraid of leaks.

annealed steel has high fracture strength and can withstand pressure of 21 bar;
thermal conductivity coefficient 17 W (m*K);
the internal diameter of the pipe is 14 mm and the outer diameter is 15 mm, which is optimal for throughput and rapid circulation of the media;
operating temperature up to 150 degrees with short-term exposure to even 400 degrees;
complete fire safety;
lifetime warranty on the pipe itself;
high flexibility of the material with the task of any geometry;
is not afraid of freezing and does not burst in unheated rooms;
The corrugated structure withstands water hammer well.

needs many additional equipment parts (manifolds, water pump, thermostat, couplings);
crimping is required before pouring the screed, because subsequent repairs are complicated by limited access.

This is the best water-heated floor as an economical option for arranging individual heating in an apartment. The pipe is made of cross-linked polyethylene and is equipped with a protective layer that acts as a barrier against oxygen, which contributes to long-term service.

good flexibility allows you to lay the pipe with various turns;
it fits well with a European fitting, suitable for manifolds of any manufacturer;
protective barrier layer;
bending radius 80 mm;
outer diameter 16 mm is convenient for covering with floor materials;
12 mm internal diameter is optimal for circulation.

requires separate purchase of fitting for connection, manifolds, pump;
during installation, creases are possible, which will have to be corrected by heating with a hairdryer so that an obstruction does not form for the wearer;
needs crimping;
to avoid the appearance of bumps on the surface of the screed, a layer of up to 30 mm is needed;
must be stored and transported in packaging so as not to damage the protective layer.

When building a private house, sooner or later the question will arise about what kind of heating system will be created. More and more people prefer underfloor heating, which is designed to perfectly heat the room, thereby creating unrivaled comfort in it.

Now apartment owners are also resorting to this type of home heating. You can install a water floor yourself, but you need to know how to make a heated floor.

Characteristics of heated floors

Underfloor heating can be called the most economical option if you have central heating. In order to install it, it is necessary to take into account a number of aspects. The essence of such horizontal heating is the endless circulation of hot water from the central heating battery along a special floor circuit.

The floor can be single or double circuit. The circuit itself is a curved pipe through which hot water passes. During circulation, the pipe heats up and intensively transfers heat to the floor covering.

In order for circulation to occur correctly and efficiently, a special pump is required. If the radiators do not have it, then it will be necessary to purchase it. Some homeowners decide to do without it by creating a slope in the circuit with their own hands, but this process is too labor-intensive and, in essence, impractical, because you can simply purchase a pump.

A system with a slope in the circuit implies circulation under the influence of physics, namely gravity. In this case, the movement of water will not have the required speed, and heating will be uneven due to the slope.

An important aspect is the calculation of the length of the contours. It depends directly on the square footage of the room. If the room is small, then one pipe will be enough. Its length should not exceed 30 meters.

If the square footage exceeds 17 sq.m., then two pipes will be required. In this case, the length of the contour should not exceed 50 meters. You can separate the contours if the length of the pipes is more than 30 and 50 meters, respectively, but they must be laid in parallel.

Preparatory work

A water heating system can be durable and extremely wear-resistant if installed according to all the rules. First of all, it is necessary to prepare the surface for drawing the contour.

It is necessary to free the floor from the floor covering, if any, with your own hands. The subfloor must be “naked.”
The water floor system can only be installed on a flat surface. If there are cracks or other defects on the surface, they must be eliminated with cement. The presence of distortions can be seen using a level.
If the unevenness is insignificant, then it will be enough to fill the perimeter with an even layer of sand. Some experts recommend using quartz sand. Because this is an additional thermal insulation layer.
The use of damper tape is an integral stage of work. It is glued to the wall along the entire perimeter of the room, as well as at the junction of the contours. This material absorbs vibrations and provides additional thermal insulation. The process of rapid heating and cooling, thanks to the damper, will not promise destruction of the screed. For the convenience and speed of this procedure, it is recommended to purchase rolls with an adhesive side. The tape is attached to the concrete using dowel nails.

The preparatory work for the water floor is now complete; then you need to think about installing the thermal insulation yourself.

Creating thermal insulation

The thermal insulation layer is necessary so that the heat from the heater does not go down into the cement screed. To create this layer you can use the most various materials, of which the most popular are:

Mineral wool or other fibrous filler;
Quartz sand;
Expanded clay;
Expanded polystyrene;
Branded roll insulation with asbestos.

Each of the listed materials has excellent characteristics, but different costs. If you choose budget insulation for a water floor in an apartment, then you can stop at mineral wool, but she is very afraid of moisture. Expanded polystyrene performs its functions perfectly, but when ignited, it emits very toxic smoke, poisoning everything around.

Expanded clay also has a low cost. If the choice fell on this bulk material, then you should choose fractions with minimum quantity pores and small size. This guarantees layer density and excellent performance.

In apartment conditions, roll insulation from well-known brands is most often used. It performs its functions perfectly and, among other things, is not afraid of moisture and fire. All thanks to the presence of asbestos in the composition.

After installing the thermal insulation with your own hands, you should cover it with thick plastic film. This is necessary so that the concrete screed that will be poured heated floor heating, did not penetrate the thermal insulation.

The water circuit in the apartment should be thought out in advance. First, sheets of reinforcement are laid on plastic film. They shouldn't be too thick. Many craftsmen prefer a pattern in the form of a snake or spiral.

The distance between the pipes should not be less than 15 cm. This guarantees excellent heating. If there are no severe frosts in a particular region, then the distance can be increased to 30 cm. Laying must take place in strict accordance with the plan. No overlap.

The DIY installation system must be done by two people. One pair of hands is engaged in laying the pipe, and the second is fixing it with clamps. The previously laid fittings are useful for this, because the pipe is tied to it with clamps.

The end of the circuit must be brought to the distribution point. There should also be a thermostat there. The tip of the pipe is fixed with metal sleeves. Before the first water supply, it is necessary to test the system with air in order to identify unwanted holes in the pipes.

After a thorough check of the entire system and a full connection to the central heating in the apartment, the screed is filled. Its thickness depends solely on the thickness of the warm floor itself. The mixture for the screed may be different.

When creating the composition, it is necessary to strictly observe the proportions, since deviation from them can reduce the service life of the future coating. Concrete and cement mixtures They differ only in composition. Some are more suitable for rooms with high humidity, while others are ready for exposure to low temperatures. Select the most suitable option It is recommended to consult with a knowledgeable person.

The thermostat in the apartment must be selected in advance. In the store you can see a wide range of such devices. The simplest of them are mechanical. They are easy to use and inexpensive. Automatic or touch-sensitive analogs are expensive, but they allow you to set a specific heating schedule and save the settings for several days or even months.

According to experts, the “warm floor” system can effectively heat a room of any size and area, even in harsh winter conditions. It is noted high level comfort: it is always warm on the floor, and at a height of about 1.5 meters the temperature is slightly lower. With this thermal mode a person’s well-being improves significantly. Convection processes cover the entire volume of the room, so maintaining a comfortable microclimate is much easier.

Disadvantages of water heated floors

Floor heating warm water has been used for quite a long time, but this method was not popular, since the service life of metal pipes is not very long. The main disadvantage of water floors is considered to be complex, almost impossible repairs. The masters reluctantly poured metal pipes screed, since they quickly collapsed, and dismantling the concrete screed was difficult and expensive.

As a result, the use of the system did not become widespread. However, the construction market has developed, and metal-plastic pipes have appeared, which are characterized by high quality and good flexibility. Therefore, water heated floors began to be used, first in parallel with radiators, and then instead of them. With the advent of cross-linked polyethylene pipes on the market, water-heated floors began to gain popularity, as the material was distinguished by high quality characteristics and relatively low cost.

Another disadvantage is the large height of the entire pie, in most cases it is about 10 cm. For rooms with low ceilings, this fact is of great importance.

Among the disadvantages of this heating method are also greater inertia. It takes a lot of time and heat to heat the floor and room to a comfortable temperature. Therefore, it is better to use water heated floors in places of permanent residence, rather than temporary visits.

Features of connecting underfloor heating to central heating

In apartments of multi-storey buildings, water heated floor systems are connected to the central heating riser. To do this, the housing maintenance organization must give special permission. However, it is not always possible to obtain such permission. Most often, such documents are provided without any problems for apartments in newly built buildings; they provide a separate riser for connecting the “warm floor” system.

In apartments of old houses, installing heated floors can be problematic. The fact is that in such houses in most cases a single-pipe heating system is installed. When connecting underfloor heating from the riser, a large amount of heat will be consumed, as a result, the radiators of apartments located on the floors below will be constantly cold. Therefore, permission to connect a heated floor to a central heating system can be issued to the owners of apartments on the first floor of the building.

The question of how to make a warm floor from heating can be solved by connecting a warm water floor to the boiler. Such a system requires large financial costs for the installation of special equipment, but during operation the costs become significantly lower. Another option is to install an electric heated floor. This option has a significant advantage: if a separate section fails, the entire system continues to function.

When issuing permission to connect a heated floor, the Housing Office may require the installation of a heat meter. You should agree to this without a doubt, since with good thermal insulation you have to pay much less on the meter.

The process of installing a water heated floor

The first step in solving the problem of how to make heated floors from water heating is drawing up a project. It is necessary to draw a floor plan indicating the sizes of individual rooms and the location of risers. A collector unit should be placed near the riser to which the connection will be made. On one side, central heating is connected to this device, and on the other, pipes of the “warm floor” system. The collector unit has a temperature sensor that allows you to control the heating of the coolant. The device may also have a valve or valve that sets a certain temperature for each circuit.

The water heated floor system requires mandatory mixing of hot water from the supply pipe with cold water from the return pipe. This occurs in the manifold assembly, which is also called the mixing assembly. This is explained by the fact that sometimes the supply temperature can be quite high, at which it is not entirely comfortable to be on the floor. A device in the mixing unit that controls the temperature of the coolant gives a signal about the need to add cold water.

For flawless and efficient operation of the water heated floor system, the installation of a circulation pump is necessary. It is designed to provide a certain speed of water along the contour of the heated floor.

The next step is to select the type of pipes for the water-based floor heating system. For this purpose, pipes made of metal-plastic or cross-linked polyethylene are used. However, recently there has been a popularity of corrugated stainless steel pipes. This material is characterized by flexibility, reliability and relatively low cost, lower than the price of metal-plastic products. In addition, the pipes have a long service life and have not yet been counterfeited. The only drawback corrugated pipe can be called high resistance to coolant flow due to the ribbed surface.

It is also important to decide on the method of laying the water circuit pipes. Two methods are considered popular: “snail” and “snake”. It is easier to lay pipes with a snake, but the snail heats the floor surface more evenly, and there is no alternation of warm and cold zones.

The diameter of the pipes for water heated floors and their length are no less important. In most cases, a pipe with a cross-section of 16 mm is used, as for the length of the circuit, here the standard of 4-5 meters for heating one square area is taken as a basis.

Pipes should be laid according to a pre-designed scheme, otherwise nothing may work out. Even a simple snake is quite difficult to install in a small area where there are no more than three circuits. In this case, the length of each circuit is about 30 m, and both ends must be connected to the collector unit.

Installation of a "warm floor" heating system

Many homeowners are interested in the question of how to properly make underfloor heating. To solve it, it is enough to carry out all the activities sequentially.

If the work is carried out in an old apartment, then the first step should be to dismantle the floor coverings. Most often there are no problems with wooden floors, but with tiles in the kitchen and bathroom you will have to tinker for some time. In any case, the coating must be removed.

The next step is to level the surface. Normal operation of the system is only possible on a flat floor; with significant differences in height, stagnation of the coolant may occur. If the unevenness is small, then you can apply a layer to the surface cement mortar. On a flat floor, any holes or cracks should be repaired. It also helps to solve the problem coarse sand, applied thin layer, it must be well leveled.

The continuation of the work is to stick damper tape around the entire perimeter of the room. In this case, one part should be attached to the wall, and the second to the floor. The tape is glued to smooth surfaces and nailed to rough surfaces with dowels. The damper tape will protect the heated floor screed from cracking in the event of thermal expansion.

The most crucial moment when installing a heated floor from central heating with your own hands is considered to be insulation of the surface. The most popular thermal insulation material in this case can be called foil foamed polyethylene or extruded polystyrene foam. For relief installation process some types of insulation are equipped with special guides, but in this case as heating element Only metal-plastic pipe is used.

Thermal insulation material must be laid tightly to prevent the formation of cold bridges that contribute to heat loss. Therefore, the joints of slabs or rolls of insulation are taped with metallized tape.

Special grids with cells are laid on top of the thermal insulation; pipes will be attached to them using plastic clamps or binding wire. during the installation process, they adhere to a certain step between two adjacent pipes in the circuit. Moreover, this value depends on the climate in the region and the requirements for room temperature:

IN southern regions It is recommended to make the distance between the pipes about 0.3 meters.
In central Russia, it is enough to arrange the turns in increments of 0.15 meters.
In rooms where high air temperatures are required, pipes are laid at a distance of 0.15 meters.
In the central part of the room, a gap of 0.2 meters can be maintained.
They try not to lay pipes under furniture, but if necessary, the installation step can be 0.3 meters.
Areas of the room near external poorly insulated walls, near door and window openings require more frequent laying of pipes, in this case the step can be 0.1 meters.

The ends of the laid pipes are brought out to the collector unit, connected to the corresponding pipes and fixed using special clamps. The system is filled with water and left for some time. To test heated floors from steam heating was more efficient, and all defects became obvious, it is necessary to supply coolant under high pressure and with a temperature of about 50 degrees. If there are no problem areas, you can pour a clean concrete screed.

Work at this stage is carried out with the circuit filled. First of all, the beacons are placed at a height of 5-6 cm from the pipes; this is exactly the layer of concrete that should be on top of the heating element of the water heated floor. Next, start pouring. concrete mortar. It is best to use M200 grade composition with fine-grained filler for this purpose. The poured screed is leveled using the rule. The entire structure must stand for at least 4 weeks for the concrete to gain the required strength. After this time, the finishing floor covering is laid and the room is prepared for use.

Connecting a heated floor from a heating boiler

In the case where it is not possible to connect warm water floors with your own hands from a central heating battery, you can purchase a heating boiler. Such a device is quite expensive, but makes it possible to create an individual heating system. This option turns out to be more profitable during operation, even with the most expensive fuel.

Installation work on arranging a warm water floor from the boiler is carried out according to the same scheme as in the case of central heating. The sequence of actions is also preserved, except that the collector is connected not to the riser, but to the heating boiler.

Connecting a “warm floor” system to a boiler cannot be called difficult; the work can be done by a home craftsman without the involvement of professionals. A safety group is installed on the supply pipe and the pipe is brought from the boiler to the collector unit, to which the water circuit is already connected. An expansion tank and a pump are mounted on the return pipe. forced circulation coolant.

The water heated floor in the apartment can be connected to central heating or a boiler. Each option has its own pros and cons. The efficiency of underfloor heating from central heating is determined by the operation of the boiler room; the costs in this case are quite high. A heating boiler and its installation are expensive, but further heating payments are significantly reduced.

IN recent years heated floors are in unprecedented demand. This increase in demand for technology is due not only to the peculiarities of the domestic climate (it’s cold in our country for almost half the year), but also due to the unsatisfactory performance of public utilities (often, the heat from the batteries is simply not enough for a comfortable stay).

A durable and reliable, efficient and inexpensive heating system in the form of a heated floor will help to heat any room, while eliminating the need for additional installation of individual elements and any repair work.

Warm floor and its connection to heating

Today, there are extremely many options for underfloor heating systems, but the most popular are those that operate on a liquid coolant (most often water). At the same time, such warm floors are “powered” by heating or a specially created autonomous circuit.

Of course, due to some features (availability and simplicity, in particular), the most often used option is when the heated floor is connected to centralized system heating

Warm floors in an apartment from central heating allow you to achieve the highest performance and efficiency of heat transfer, reducing associated costs by almost an order of magnitude. In addition, if you approach the organization of the process wisely, then all the preparatory and installation work can be completed in the shortest possible time.

What you need to know before starting work

Before organizing a warm water floor from central heating, it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

Before starting any installation work, you should definitely take into account the fact that water heated floors from central heating create an additional load on the entire system. Naturally, heat loss increases, and therefore it is simply impossible to do without coordination with specialized authorities.

And utility services can easily force the new owner to install a special heat consumption meter.

Installation of a warm water floor: options and main stages

Instructions for heated floors connected to a central heating system imply laying all pipes in several basic ways:

Spiral (bifilar);
Spiral with offset center;
Meander (snake);
Double zigzag styling.

It should be noted that each existing option has its positive and negative aspects– the choice should be based only on your own preferences, as well as on the basis of some other factors. In particular, in those places where there are doorways, window openings and walls in the room, the coolant must have a higher temperature.

Advice. If it is difficult to decide on the layout of the underfloor heating pipeline, then it is best to choose a “snake”.
This is a universal option, thanks to which you can ensure the most optimal heat transfer, eliminating breakdowns and other troubles.

The process of organizing work modern system heating consists of several stages that have design features that should be given considerable attention:

Preparation. With your own hands, you must clean the base on which the pipes will be laid in the future,
Also, you should divide the entire area of the room into functional zones - small areas, which will further help increase the efficiency of the process and reduce time costs.

At the preparation stage, thermal insulation materials are also laid. Due to this layer of insulation, it is possible to reduce heat loss and eliminate unnecessary financial costs;

Advice. When laying thermal insulation, it is necessary to glue the edges of the materials using a special welt tape. This eliminates the shifting of materials during installation and simplifies the work.

Advice. Sand concrete M-300 can be used as a solution.
This concrete has the most optimal combination price and quality, and its thermal conductivity and performance characteristics make it possible to obtain a more efficient and productive heating system.

Flooring installation. Before installation, it is important to wait at least a couple of days - during this time the concrete will fully acquire its qualities and “mature”.
At the same time, the choice of material for flooring can be very diverse (and this can be seen in many photos and videos of apartments with heated floors), for example, parquet, linoleum, laminate;
First launch and testing of the installed heated floor. It is best if representatives of utility services are present at the launch - if any malfunctions occur, you can quickly shut off the coolant supply to the apartment.