Decorating the inside of a house with clapboards - how to do it yourself? How to sheathe a building with clapboard from the inside and outside. How to sheathe a room with clapboard yourself.

Covering walls with clapboard means not only prestige and visible comfort. Wood lining has all the properties of wood: thermal insulation and breathing. The latter is determined primarily by the exchange vapor capacity - when there is an excess of moisture vapor in the air, the lining of the lining absorbs them; when there is a shortage, he gives. In addition, wood emits a weak aroma, bactericidal substances and neutralizes unpleasant odors. All this together creates a favorable, healthy microclimate in a clapboard-lined house.

Note: This publication discusses wooden lining. Plastic and metal are more resistant to external influences, but, firstly, they do not reduce or add anything to the quality of the living environment, secondly, they are noticeably more expensive and thirdly, the technology of covering them differs significantly from that for wooden lining. Therefore, houses are sheathed mainly on the outside with clapboards made from non-wood materials.

Work procedure

Wooden lining can be finished living rooms almost any design style, either completely or partially, see fig. In the latter case, the lining may be effective means room zoning, top left in Fig.

The walls are finished with clapboards in the following order:

Preparing the building: if the walls are porous or cold (they conduct heat well) - insulation and waterproofing from the outside. Possibly also external decorative cladding. Neglecting this point will bring all efforts to create beauty inside to nothing;
Choice of material – wood species, profile and width of the lining boards;
Choice of cladding scheme: horizontal, vertical, diagonal, shaped;
Preparation of the internal base surface - leveling, vapor/water insulation;
Installation of sheathing under the cladding;
Wall covering with clapboard, using standard or simplified technology. In terms of strength and decorative qualities of the cladding, they are equivalent, the differences are different, see below;
Applying a protective coating to the casing;
Installation of sockets, lamps and other devices built into the wall;
Applying skirting boards to expansion gaps and corners window slopes and door quarters.

Material

Decorative lining is a type of molding - long-length lumber - and is a profiled board with a standard tongue and groove connection. A tongue and groove joint is a type of longitudinal tongue-and-groove connection with an open groove. Tongue piles come with locks (which do not necessarily require additional fastening of the boards to the base) and without locks. Lining for walls and ceilings is produced exclusively with lockless tongue and groove, because Locking tongues are reliable only in flooring. Laminate flooring is produced with interlocking tongues, which is much more expensive than lining. It is impossible to lay it on the walls and especially on the ceiling without additional fastenings. There are standard fasteners for laminate, similar to those for lining, but working with laminate is more difficult and it does not improve the microclimate of the room. The surfaces of walls and ceilings are subject to wear incomparably less than the floor, so there is no point in spending money on covering anything other than the floor with laminate.

Wood

Wall lining is made from various types of wood, both ordinary local and imported expensive ones. For budgets up to medium level, lining made of pine, spruce, oak, ash, larch and birch is available, see fig. Cedar, maple, beech, walnut and exotic woods are expensive. The dressing room and rest room of the bathhouse are lined with pine clapboard, the washing area with oak, aspen or alder; perhaps larch. Steam room - linden, aspen, alder; rarely - oak.

Note: Wood paneling and wood for lathing under it must be acclimatized before use - kept in the room that will be finished for at least 24 hours, stacked with ventilation ducts.

Pine lining is either the cheapest or very expensive. The cheap one is knotty, and the expensive one is made from the trunks of mast pine trees without knots. The knotty pine lining is nevertheless in in capable hands serves as an excellent decorative material. The breathing of pine is smooth and deep. Bactericidal properties and resistance to fungi and pests are excellent. To decorate residential premises, you need to take clapboard made of dry chip pine, cut down in winter. Pitch pine, cut down during the period of sap flow, holds up in the open air no worse than bog oak, but is too resinous and expensive. It is easy to distinguish resin from dry wood chips on sale: either streaks of resin are visible on the resin, or it stains your finger with it if you run it with pressure along the fibers. Interior decoration of a house with pine clapboard is the optimal option in terms of beauty, benefit and cost.

Spruce is similar in many ways to pine, but it is not necessary to cover the nursery and kitchen with it: spruce is not divided into dried wood chips and tar. The resin content in spruce wood is approximately the same all year round. Spruce lining is light, but it darkens faster than pine under the influence of ultraviolet (UV) radiation, so finish with spruce lining better room with windows facing north and northwest. A special feature of spruce wood is its excellent resonant properties. A conversation in a spruce-trimmed office turns out to be solid, thorough, and the music or sound of a movie in a “spruce” living room is clear, rich, and lively.

Note: On sale under the guise of spruce there is often lining almost the same color tone as pine. It is made of fir. There is more resin in it than in spruce, and the sound resonance is weak. Fir lining is well suited for the hallway, balcony, glassed-in veranda and other rooms where people enter in street clothes and shoes - fir lining retains bactericidal properties for a very long time.

Oak is famous for its strength and durability. With regard to decorative lining, the important thing about it is that the tone of oak wood differs within the same board. This gives additional features for design. Ash is also uneven in tone, but lighter than oak and breathes easier. The oak-lined living room with south-facing windows can be stuffy in summer; It is generally not recommended to decorate the bedroom and children's room with oak. The oak muffles the sounds; If your music center makes your neighbors “happy,” then oak cladding can reconcile them with unexpected joy. Oak resists rot and mold very well, but wood-boring beetles readily gnaw at it. The house beetle most often infests in oak houses.

Larch is very resistant, breathes like pine. Not afraid of fungi and insects; ants and cockroaches avoid houses lined with larch, even mosquitoes are reluctant to fly there. Larch wood has a wide range of tones from tree to tree; the texture of its layers is more refined and expressive than pine. Larch lining, selected by shades, is expensive, but re-grading it is much cheaper and you can achieve interesting effects in the cladding. There is quite a lot of resin in larch, but it quickly evaporates and (mostly) becomes bituminized: larch lining, aged for a year, in this respect is equivalent to pine made from dry chips. It is the bituminization of the main part of the resin that explains the high resistance of larch wood.

Birch gives an exceptionally light, cheerful, positive interior and is aesthetically compatible with most modern styles design. Under the influence of UV, birch darkens slowly and weakly. Unfortunately, birch wood is very easily affected by fungi. Only 100% reliable way to guarantee birch sheathing from the appearance of colored veins and stains - underfloor heating in combination with good external insulation.

Linden, alder, and aspen are of little use for cladding residential premises. due to low mechanical strength; lining made from these types of wood is used only for. Lining the steam room in a bathhouse with linden makes the bathhouse light and suitable for women, children and weak people. Steam room with alder or aspen paneling - regular, medium. The oak bath is vigorous. It is good to maintain heroic health and strength, but it will not benefit an ordinary person.

Note: It is unacceptable to sheathe the steam room and washing bath with knotty clapboard made of any wood, because in the bathhouse atmosphere the twigs soon begin to fall out. In the steam room, in addition, knots turn out to be sources of fire and burn hazards; heat is concentrated in them.

Profile and width

Cheaper and easier to install with your own hands (see below) is the Soft Line profile lining (on the right in the figure); if the design requires minimal visible gaps between the boards, use eurolining.

The Shtil profile lining differs from it not only in its smaller thickness, but also in its more rounded molding - shaped chamfers of the outer ribs. Shtil lining, as a rule, is expensive, made of wood without knots. Lining under the timber is used, in addition to purely decorative purposes, for cladding utility bath rooms, because due to its greater thickness, it conducts heat less well and is less susceptible to knots falling out. Larch lining for timber that is at least a year old from the time of sawing can also be used to cover a washing room, but not a steam room.

Note: Eurolining is also available with a ridge height of 16 mm. This is the so-called. wind-resistant, for external cladding. Whether or not to sheathe the walls inside is up to you.

Lining of any profile is produced in boards of different widths. If you intend to decorate the room(s) with clapboards with your own hands in an inexpensive, simplified way, as described below, then the width of the board becomes important: the last one in the installation order should be cut to the width as small as possible, and the trim should be no narrower than the baseboard + deformation gap. Let's explain with an example. Let's say the wall length is 4 mm (400 cm). We are trying to take a board 150 mm (15 cm) wide along the top surface for vertical cladding (see below). 400/15 = 26.67 boards will be used for cladding. So acceptable, 2/3 of the last remains in width; 4/5 or 5/6 would be better. With a 13 cm board you get 400/13 = 30.77 more expensive boards; a 180 mm board will not work, because... the width of the last one will remain only 0.22. A 200 mm board won’t work either: it seems like a whole number of them can be laid, but there is no margin left for trimming, see below.

American

American lining came into construction from wooden shipbuilding: there, cladding with overlapping boards is the only way to get seams suitable for waterproof caulk. American lining can be flat (item 1 in the figure) and stepped (item 2 and item 3 - profile with dimensions), to imitate herringbone cladding along its length.

It is believed that American women can only be sewn with horizontal belts. So, installing an American Christmas tree (like a blockhouse) with vertical panels is quite possible:

Each panel will go 2, 4 (as on item 4), 6, etc. an even number of boards.
The ridge is cut off at the extreme boards of the panel.
Under the joints of low edges (with cut ridges) bars are placed perpendicular to the main beams of the sheathing, see below.
High edges are connected with dowels (lamellas) - strips of wood or plywood. There is no need to cut them exactly according to the profile of the grooves; it is only necessary that the dowels fit tightly and the boards do not play relative to each other.

Sheathing from vertical panels American looks no worse, if not better, than herringbone paneling (see below), but it is technologically simpler.

Sheathing schemes

The easiest way to install lining boards on walls is to either mount them upright or lay them on horizontal belts. Horizontal cladding is generally more beautiful, but it is necessary to correctly cladding walls horizontally, always laying the boards with the ridges up. Otherwise, micro-reservoirs will form in the grooves (item 1 in the figure on the right), from which rot and infection will occur. If the sides of the groove of the bottom board (the first in the installation order) are trimmed correctly, they are cut off, pos. 2 in Fig., so that the groove does not become a pocket - a trap of capillary moisture. As for the vertical cladding, whether and where to cut the tongue/groove depends only on the installation method. Vertical cladding is used in damp rooms or with a high probability of condensation (bathhouse, hallway); here and correct installation horizontal cladding will not prevent it from getting stuck.

Diagonal clapboard cladding is rarely used, because is complex and results in a large waste of material, but aesthetically has almost no benefit. There are many shaped clapboard coverings; you can notice that, for example, plating with a flat herringbone (on the left in the next figure) is labor-intensive, but not as complicated as it seems: the fragments are cut according to a template in a miter box and mounted on vertical sheathing. They look great, but are more complicated than the lining diamond panels on the right in Fig. The sheathing for them is a cross with a frame, in the quadrants of which bars for the diagonal sheathing are attached, see below.

Lathing

You can’t just nail the paneling to the wall, even if the wooden wall is completely flat: a system of capillary channels will appear between the paneling and the wall, the room will become damp, and the paneling and, possibly, the wall will rot. Cladding with clapboard must be ventilated, for which purpose they are cut out in the undersides of the boards. ventilation ducts. That is, a wooden sheathing is definitely required for clapboard cladding.

Why made of wood? Because the sheathing material, similar in properties to the sheathing, also serves as a mechanical damper, especially if the base wall is made of mineral materials. For the same purpose, deformation gaps of 6-10 mm must be left between the sheathing and the wall, see below. If you put wooden paneling on, say, steel profiles for drywall, it will quickly swell or cracks will appear. And if, after a year or two, you remove the baseboards from the sheathing along the wooden sheathing, you will find that its edges have moved, but the visible surface remains smooth.

Schemes of sheathing for vertical, horizontal and diagonal cladding are given in Fig. The general principle is that the sheathing bars are perpendicular to the boards. Don't neglect the edge beams (marked in red!): there should be no hanging ends of the boards; the sheathing for diagonal cladding must have a continuous frame. The thickness of the sheathing beams is 20-40 mm; width 30-60 mm. The installation step of the beams is 4-5 board widths along the top surface.

Note 6: fastening the beams to the wall - 6 mm self-tapping screws plastic dowels. In concrete from 70 mm, in brick from 90 mm, in foam/gas blocks from 120 mm. For a wooden wall - wood screws from 4x60. The beam fastening pitch is 400-600 mm. Attachment points 50-70 mm from the ends are required.

Wall

It is necessary to fasten the lining to the wall, taking into account the fact that the gap created by the sheathing is a ventilation one, not a steam trap. Second, so that the cladding in an ideal room does not suffer from drying out of the wood, the unevenness of the virtual (formed by the outer layers of the sheathing beams) surface for the cladding should be no more than 2 mm/m and the total no more than 6 mm along the entire wall of any length.

Placing the sheathing directly on a porous moisture-absorbing wall (item 1 in the figure) is a gross mistake. Quite expensive and labor-intensive, but very reliable option wall preparation – cement coating vapor-tight plaster, pos. 2; at the same time the wall is leveled. To a fairly level concrete wall in a dry room, the sheathing beams can be secured with EC brackets for plasterboard profiles, pos. 3.

Initially, EC staples are thin perforated plates. In this case, the sheathing bars are selected in advance for evenness. The middle beam is placed first, the EC brackets, already attached to the wall, the ends of the beam are bent and fastened along its edges, then the intermediate brackets are bent and the entire beam is fastened without deforming it. The remaining bars are placed exactly in a plane, oriented along the middle.

However, the best way to prepare a wall for clapboard cladding is a vapor barrier; in the bathhouse, kitchen, hallway it is impossible to do otherwise. The wall is leveled and foil insulation is applied to it with the foil facing out; the insulation sheets are placed on mounting tape with an overlap of 15 cm. Then plywood pads with a thickness of 8 mm or more are attached under the beams to the wall through the insulation, i.e. greater than the thickness of the insulation, and next to them are the sheathing beams, pos. 4. Thus, a continuous ventilated space is formed between the insulation and the sheathing, shown by green arrows in pos. 5.

Sheathing

The main principle of clapboard cladding is to go from small complex places (see figure on the right) to large solid planes. Details about all the subtleties internal lining wooden lining according to all the rules, see next. video, and we’ll see where we can simplify, make it cheaper and make it easier, working with our own hands for ourselves.

Video: installation of wooden lining

Professionally, the lining is attached to the sheathing with mounting clips: starting clips (pos. 1a in the figure) and running clips, or gluers (kleimers, clamps, clasps), pos. 1 b, 2 and 3.

Fastening with gluers ensures high labor productivity: a professional, using a pneumatic stapler, spends only a few seconds on the fastening point, see video:

Video: gluers for fastening lining

Second, the gluers do not damage the boards. For example, in Southern European countries wood paneling rooms are a symbol of wealth and prestige, but due to strong UV, the clapboard paneling there darkens with spots after 2-4 years. Then the sheathing is changed, the removed boards are sorted by tone and sold as used, but no one will buy a board with holes as working material. Installation of lining on gluers is technologically accessible to anyone, see another video, but it turns out to be cumbersome, because... In addition to the increased number of more expensive fasteners, special tools are also required.

Video: how to attach lining with gluers

IN Central Russia lining under 2 layers acrylic varnish(see below) will retain its appearance for 10 years or more. With your own hands in your home, you can attach the lining to the sheathing with small screws or nails, pos. 4 and 5:

In this case, it is more convenient to work with the soft line (pos. 5), because the number of obliquely driven hardware is reduced. The fastener heads are recessed in plain sight by twisting the excess with a screwdriver or, if these are nails, with a hammer - a steel rod with a head for impact with a hammer strike at one end and the other end sharpened to a truncated cone. The simplest hammer is made from a 100-150 mm nail.

The recessed fastener heads are rubbed with wood putty. Because The cladding of walls and ceilings is not subject to heavy loads and wear; you can prepare putty exactly to match the wood yourself by mixing 2-4 volume parts of sawdust of the same wood to 1 part PVA.

Laying

Usually, the lining is laid in the same way as laminate: the ridge is cut off from the first board and placed in that place against the wall. However, since they do not walk on the walls and ceiling and do not place furniture on them, cladding according to the “everything in reverse” principle, pos. 6. Only the last board is cut to width, and the first is placed with the groove against the wall as is.

Protection

The panel (wall) covered with clapboard is sanded until smooth with sandpaper No. 140-160, then primed with a primer for acrylic varnish. The purpose of the primer in this case is primarily to lift the small fibers left by the rough sandpaper. After the primer has dried, the surface is sanded with sandpaper No. 240-280. After each sanding, blow off the surface with a vacuum cleaner (do not rub with a rag!). Two sandings with an intermediate primer will give a completely smooth surface. Its protection from mechanical damage and UV will be provided by 2 layers of acrylic varnish, colorless or tinted. The 2nd layer is applied after the first one has completely dried. In addition, varnishing will significantly reduce the fire hazard of the skin, but it will not prevent it from breathing: the breath will come from the underside through the deformation gaps.

Interior decoration of the house with painted clapboard

Wood, as you know, is a universal material and remains so, regardless of its scope of use and processing options. Particularly relevant is the use of wood in construction, in particular in cladding walls inside the house. Thanks to this material, you can create a favorable microclimate, comfort and beautiful interior in your home.

Application

More and more residents of private houses are choosing the interior of walls made of lining inside the house. This is explained not only by the comfort and magnificent beauty of the interior, which are achieved through the use of wood, but also due to the presence of certain properties that the lining has.

Among them:

Excellent sound insulation;
The surface does not require further leveling;
A wonderful aroma of wood that will appeal to all residents;
Biological features and high environmental friendliness of the tree;
Different methods of laying lining, as well as its different widths and others, allow you to visually change the proportions of the space.

Let's say a few words about the properties of lining to change space:

To begin with, it is worth noting that any decorative lining for interior decoration is made of wooden panels, the width of which is usually 8.8 cm, this in turn is the standard working size. The length of the slats will vary (from 1 to 6 meters), their variation depends on the dimensions of the room and installation methods. Before purchasing sheathing material, it is necessary to make accurate preliminary measurements;
Also important point- a method of laying slats on walls. They can be located vertically or horizontally. The horizontal position expands the space of the room, while the vertical laying increases the height of the room.

Classification by variety

The classification of lining directly depends on quality indicators, according to which the material is usually divided into 4 grades, which, in turn, determines the price of the product.

In this case, it is not worth saving, but buying too expensive lining may turn out to be a pointless waste of money. The most common type on sale is 4: “Extra”, followed by grades “A”, “B” and “C”.

It is difficult to imagine a type of wood from which it would be impossible to make lining, and the quality of the finishing material will directly depend on the type used.

The following types of wood are usually used in the Russian construction market:

Pine;
Birch;
Larch;
Ash and other options.

However, when approaching the choice of the type of wood from which the lining is made, one point should be taken into account - all of the above types of wood are suitable for interior finishing with lining of a house.

Important! It is worth taking into account some physical characteristics of the species, for example, coniferous varieties are not suitable for decorating a bathhouse, since at elevated temperatures the resin will begin to release from this material.

Step-by-step finishing with clapboard

If you want to learn in detail how to sheathe the inside of a house with clapboards, you should study the step-by-step algorithm of the work process. It is not difficult to carry out this procedure with your own hands; a special video and instructions will help you, which will tell you step by step how to carry out wall cladding.

The initial stage is the choice of the method of lining arrangement, horizontal or vertical. The choice in this case should be dictated by the size of the room and the taste of the owner. For a vertical arrangement, the slatted frame is located horizontally, the opposite arrangement is for horizontal laying of the lining.

You must first prepare the slats (or buy them); you can cut boards for them, the width of which is from 25 to 30 mm. A prerequisite is that the material must be dry.

Frame installation

The main condition for installing the frame is to align it in one plane. The first rail for horizontal installation should be installed strictly vertically, using a plumb line. The rail can be secured using self-tapping screws or regular nails.

We move to the opposite corner, where the installation of a similar rail is required; several nylon threads are pulled between them to create a single plane. Then, along these threads, all frame elements are installed.

Tip: The distance between the slats is strictly maintained in the range of 50 to 60 centimeters; the lathing after installation requires treatment with an antiseptic.

Fastening the lining

The main rule for placing horizontal type lining is that the groove should be down and the tenon up. This will prevent moisture from entering the groove if it forms on the walls. After all, the accumulation of moisture in the grooves will lead to loss of appearance of the cladding, as well as to the formation of mold, which is hazardous to health.

The lining can be assembled both from the ceiling and from below, from the floor; this moment is dictated solely by the desire of the owner. However, it is advisable to leave the lining in the room where it will be installed for a day so that the wood can adapt to future conditions.

You can attach the slats to the frame using nails driven into the groove part; here you should definitely use a tool such as a hammer (photo), or use a large nail.

The rear wall of the groove requires special attention; it is important that it does not crack during installation. Moreover, a small gap (1-2 mm) is allowed between the elements; this will allow you to adjust the shape of the lining in case of deformation of the wood due to high humidity premises. On the picture - ceiling plinth, hiding all the irregularities The assortment of stores is very voluminous

Sometimes the lining is simply varnished if this room does not differ in any conditions. If we are talking about the walls of a bathhouse or sauna, you will need to use protective equipment that can not only prevent Negative influence moisture, but also protects against temperature changes.

Finally

When wondering how to clapboard the inside of a house, it is not at all necessary to resort to the services of specialists. You can do this work yourself using our guide.

External wall cladding is one of the final stages of construction frame house. And here the choice of material is of great importance: the microclimate in the premises, the mechanical strength of the walls, and the reliability of protection from moisture and cold depend on it. In addition, the cladding serves as the basis for finishing materials, and in some cases acts as a finishing coating and is responsible for the aesthetic appearance of the building.

The cladding gives the building frame a certain rigidity and takes on part of the load. This means that one of the main criteria is the mechanical strength of the material in bending and compression, and the absence of shrinkage during operation. The walls must retain their original shape for years, regardless of environmental conditions. In addition, the cladding must be resistant to moisture, sudden temperature changes, and the effects of microorganisms.

Next, you need to pay attention to the ease of installation of the material and its flexibility during processing. If you plan to sheathe it yourself, this aspect is of great importance, because it determines how much effort and time the work will require. The material should be easy to cut and drill, but at the same time maintain density in cuts, not crumble, not crack. And, of course, it must be durable so that you don’t have to change the skin every 10-15 years.

Material selection

There are several types of materials that more or less meet these requirements: moisture-resistant plywood, fiberboard, OSB, edged boards, fiberboard. They have similar characteristics and are widely used in frame construction. To make a choice, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the main properties and features of each of them.

Oriented Strand Boards (OSB)

OSB panels are rightfully one of the most popular materials when arranging frame structures. They consist of layers of laminated wood chips and chips, with the fibers in the outer layers arranged longitudinally and transversely in the inside. For fastening chips are used synthetic resins and wax, which gives the finished slabs water-repellent properties.

Standard production involves the production of these slabs in several categories:

OSB-1 is intended exclusively for interior decoration of dry rooms with reduced mechanical loads;
OSB-2 is used for installation load-bearing structures in rooms with low humidity;
OSB-3 is a moisture-resistant board of increased rigidity used for the installation of load-bearing structures indoors and outdoors.

In terms of the quality-functionality-price ratio, OSB-3 is the most optimal, and this material is widely used in private construction for wall cladding, the manufacture of load-bearing partitions, and reusable formwork when pouring concrete structures. The slabs lend themselves well to grinding, cutting, drilling, and hold nails tightly even at a distance of 6 mm from the edge. Such cladding can simultaneously serve as a decorative covering for walls; you just need to treat it with waterproof varnish or paint it.

Advantages of OSB:

the dense structure prevents delamination and splitting of the material during processing and during operation;
the plates have elasticity and high strength, excellent resistance to vibrations, compression loads, and various deformations;
the material is resistant to weathering and temperature changes;
OSB is resistant to microorganisms; insects and rodents do not like it.

Flaws:

very low vapor permeability;
flammability;
content of toxic compounds (phenol and formaldehyde).

Main characteristics

Prices for OSB (oriented strand boards)

OSB (oriented strand board)

Cement particle boards (CSP)

This material is a compressed mass of M500 cement and shavings (usually coniferous species). A standard slab has three layers: the outer ones are made of small chips, the inner one is made of large ones. In addition to the main components, the composition contains hydration additives, the mass fraction of which does not exceed 3%. DSP is characterized by resistance to moisture, high strength, and long service life. The slabs are widely used in private and industrial construction, for indoor and outdoor work.

When covering a frame, such slabs serve as an excellent basis for cladding, decorative plaster, painting, because they form a perfectly flat and smooth surface. The material can withstand 50 cycles of complete freezing and thawing without losing its characteristics; subsequently, the strength of the slabs decreases by about 10%. Among wood-based panels DSP materials is a leader in environmental and technical indicators.

Advantages:

very low hygroscopicity;
resistance to mold and other microorganisms;
DSP are not damaged by insects and rodents;
the material does not emit toxic substances;
low thermal conductivity;
Fire safety.

Flaws:

mechanical processing of plates requires significant effort;
DSP is heavy compared to other materials;
When cutting and drilling slabs, a lot of fine dust is generated, so you need to work in a respirator;
high price.

Specifications

Fiberboard (Fiberboard)

The material is sheets of compressed shavings, usually coniferous. During the pressing process, the raw materials are highly heated, which makes it possible to achieve maximum density without the use of adhesives. Thanks to this, fiberboard is environmentally friendly clean materials, and therefore suitable for outdoor use and for finishing residential premises. The shavings contain natural resin, which acts as an antiseptic and protects the slabs from mold.

In terms of strength, fiberboard is noticeably inferior to natural lining and OSB, but it surpasses them in heat and sound insulation properties.

Windproof board "Beltermo"

Now on the construction market, fiberboards are represented by insulating boards of several well-known brands, the most popular of which are Beltermo and Izoplat. For cladding a frame house, slabs with a thickness of at least 25 mm are used; thinner sheets are used indoors.

Advantages:

light weight;
low thermal conductivity;
ease of installation;
the material does not delaminate or crumble;
high vapor permeability;
resistance to moisture and microorganisms;
absence of harmful substances in the composition.

Flaws:

high price;
long stay without decorative finishing causes slight deformation of sheets;
The outer lining of fiberboard requires spacer jibs in the frame or rigid inner lining.

Specifications

Prices for fibreboards (fibreboards)

Fiberboard (Fiberboard)

Gypsum fiber sheets (GVL)

GVL consists of pressed gypsum reinforced with cellulose fibers. Due to its high strength, the material is suitable for creating load-bearing surfaces, therefore it is widely used in frame construction. It differs from plasterboard in its greater density, uniformity, and absence of a cardboard shell. In terms of frost resistance, sound insulation properties, as well as resistance to moisture and combustion, gypsum fiber boards are also several times higher than gypsum boards.

Installation of gypsum fiber boards is carried out using frame and frameless way. For external wall cladding, the first option is used, where the sheets are fastened to the load-bearing posts using self-tapping screws. The material is easy to cut and drill, and, despite its heavy weight, is quite convenient to install. This cladding serves as an excellent basis for finishing with tiles and decorative plaster.

Advantages:

low hygroscopicity;
vapor permeability;
absence of toxic compounds;
fire safety;
high heat and sound insulation properties.

Flaws:

lack of ductility and fragility when bending the sheet;
heavy weight.

Specifications

Plywood

Plywood is made by gluing together thin sheets of veneer from various types of wood (most often coniferous and birch). The sheets are laid perpendicular to each other relative to the location of the fibers, which helps to increase the mechanical strength of the material and increases resistance to deformation. For the outer cladding of frame walls, plywood with increased moisture resistance is used, which is marked FSF. The thickness of the sheets should be from 9-10 mm, more thin material will not provide the required rigidity to the frame.

The grade of plywood is not particularly important for sheathing, and you can use the cheapest unsanded 4/4 grade boards.

WITH outside all defects will be hidden under curtain façade, so there is no point in overpaying. If the cladding technology is followed, the plywood covering will serve for years without losing its qualities.

Advantages:

high bending and compressive strength;
moisture resistance;
wear resistance;
ease of processing and installation;
frost resistance.

Flaws:

flammability;
content of formaldehyde resins;
tendency to chipping.

Specifications

Plywood prices

Edged board

Application edged boards for cladding is the most economical option. Wood is an environmentally friendly material, affordable, and easy to install. Boards can be filled not only horizontally, but also at an angle of 45-60 degrees. To save material, boards can be fastened in increments of up to 30 cm, although more often the sheathing is made continuous. This design perfectly strengthens the frame and is a ready-made base for a ventilated façade.

In order for the cladding to be reliable, boards should be chosen with a thickness of at least 25 mm; they can be tongue-and-groove for greater joint density. You cannot use raw lumber: during the drying process, the wood will begin to warp, and deformations of the finishing coating may appear.

Advantages:

wood does not emit harmful substances and has excellent vapor permeability;
boards are easy to process;
the work does not require large financial costs.

Flaws:

flammability of the material;
wood is susceptible to damage by insects and microorganisms;
Fitting and fastening elements takes a lot of time.

Prices for edged boards

Exterior cladding technology

Installation of slabs on a finished frame is carried out using the same technology, regardless of the type of material. Simultaneously with the sheathing, vapor barrier and wall insulation are carried out, and finishing can be done immediately upon completion of construction or after some time. Let's look at the installation technology using the example of covering a frame with OSB boards.

Sheathing can be done in two ways - with and without lathing. In the first case, the vapor barrier layer is located between the frame and the OSB, in the second - on top of the sheathing. The option with lathing is used in cases where OSB acts as a basis for plastering, painting or tiling; the second method is used, as a rule, when installing a ventilated facade. Otherwise there are no significant differences.

Step 1. Start covering from the very corner. The first sheet of OSB is applied to the frame posts so that the lower edge completely covers bottom trim Houses. Be sure to check the horizontal level. It is also recommended to install the slab itself horizontally rather than vertically - this provides the structure with greater rigidity. To fasten the material, galvanized self-tapping screws with a length of at least 50 mm are used. It is necessary to retreat about 10 mm from the edge of the OSB, the fastening step along the perimeter of the sheet is 15 cm, in the center - 30 cm.

Advice. To firmly fix the slabs, the length of the hardware must exceed the thickness of the OSB by at least 2.5 times. If the self-tapping screw enters the frame beam less than 30 mm, under the influence of loads the sheathing will begin to tear away from the supporting base.

Step 2. The next plate is installed next to the first, leaving a gap of 2-3 mm for thermal expansion. In the same way, set the horizontal level and screw the casing to the frame guides. The joints of the plates must be in the middle of the rack, only in this case the fastening will be as reliable as possible. Fix the remaining slabs in a circle, leaving open areas for doorways.

Step 3. The second row of sheathing must be installed with ligation of vertical seams. The same gap of 2-3 mm is maintained between the lower and upper plates. When sheathing openings, you should use whole sheets, not scraps - the fewer joints, the more airtight the sheathing. Cutouts in sheets are made with a jigsaw or circular saw, having previously made markings accurate to the millimeter. The edges of the cuts after installing the slab should perfectly coincide with the lines of the openings.

Step 4. The top plates are installed so as to completely cover the top trim. If the house has two floors, the interfloor piping should be closed in the middle of the slab - under no circumstances should OSB be joined on this line.

Gallery 1. An example of the construction of a one-story frame house finished with OSB boards

Gallery 2. Sheathing a two-story frame house with OSB boards. Example

Step 5. Having completed the installation, they attach it on top of the casing windproof membrane. Its sheets are stretched horizontally and fixed with staplers to the OSB. At the joints, the film is overlapped and taped. The material should not be pulled too tight, but there should be no sagging.

Step 6. Next, fill the lathing slats under finishing in increments of 50-60 cm. The slats must first be processed protective composition and dried. After this, you can begin installing siding, lining or other decorative covering for home.

On a note! If you plan to paint the facade from OSB, then the membrane, accordingly, is installed only on the inside of the house.

With this method of cladding, the insulation is placed on the inside of the walls in the cells of the frame and closed vapor barrier film. Slabs for interior decoration, for example, plasterboard or the same OSB, are sewn on top of the vapor barrier.

Video - How to sheathe the outside of a frame house

1. Protect it from weather influences. What does the protection of wall structures include (if these are already finished walls, for example, foam concrete blocks), as well as protection of insulation layers (if any).

2. Give the building an aesthetic, beautiful appearance.

Accordingly, all finishing materials for cladding the walls of a house must satisfy these two issues: beauty and protection.

Materials

Let's name the most common types and briefly consider their advantages and disadvantages.

Planed board 20-25 mm thick- used for “scale-like” cladding. This board is planed on only one side. To avoid gaps, the boards are laid “overlapping in a herringbone pattern.” It is environmentally friendly and also the simplest and cheap option wooden cladding.

Wooden lining- looks somewhat old-fashioned, but is also environmentally friendly, vapor-permeable and easy to install. Requires painting or impregnation. Quite expensive.

Plastic lining (PVC)- unlike wooden ones, it is more durable and cheaper. But less environmentally friendly (it's still plastic). When purchasing, it is important to choose a reliable manufacturer, since low-quality material can be destroyed in frost and sun.

Vinyl siding (the word "siding" is translated from English as "exterior cladding")- differs from plastic lining profile shape, fastening technology and the presence of a larger number of connecting elements. It is considered environmentally friendly, resistant to frost and sunlight and very durable. The cost of this material depends quite heavily on the manufacturer (from 120 rubles/m2 for Russian manufacturers and up to 350 rubles/m2 for foreign ones).

Metal siding- made of sheet steel or aluminum. It has a polymer coating or is powder painted. It is environmentally friendly, and in comparison with vinyl it has a longer service life, relative fire safety and mechanical strength. Otherwise similar to vinyl.

Metal profiled sheet- has a smooth appearance, is relatively inexpensive and durable, but does not breathe - therefore, it is better not to use it for residential premises with a frame-panel solution. Can be used as a cladding material for ventilated facades.

Decorative panels made of various materials: finishing stone, facing brick, various types plasters (from simple to embossed) - all these are more expensive types of modern cladding; their choice depends on your financial capabilities, preferences and imagination.

Subtleties of choice

Lining comes in several grades (highest, 1st and 2nd) and, accordingly, has different prices. The need for high-quality material is determined by the degree of responsibility of the structure, and the personal preferences of the home owner. In addition, the lining must be well dried (permissible humidity is 15-18%). This is a mandatory condition, otherwise, during drying, even through cracks may appear at the joints of the boards. Well, and finally, if you buy not the highest quality lining, be sure to check it for twisting and black fallen knots, as well as the evenness and integrity of the tenon and groove. The so-called lining module (that is, its length) is selected based on the size of the area to be sheathed - this is usually 2, 3, and 6 m. If the length of the wall is more than 6 m, then most likely you will have to make a gap, which can then be covered with a stripping.

The thing is that siding fastening schemes from different manufacturers are slightly different. Therefore, information on the siding fastening scheme and general instructions You must ask when purchasing materials. In addition, when purchasing, you must have a very detailed drawing of the house being sheathed; this will help the managers of the selling company to correctly select the necessary components (finishing strips) for you. These include: starting strip, facing strip, curtain strip, J-trim strip, outer corner, internal corner, connecting strip, finishing strip, soffit, etc. As you can see, there are a lot of components, and only a good person can choose them correctly a specialist familiar with fastening technology.

Fastening

Typically, sheathing a house requires a mounting frame. An exception is some types of panel houses, which can be sheathed directly on its own power frame. Frames are created depending on the selected cladding material external walls, as well as the type of fastening, which, in turn, is influenced by the design of the facade (ventilated or non-ventilated). Depending on the material and design of the frame, edged and unedged boards and bars measuring 5050 mm can be used as structural materials. Some types of siding can only be attached to standard metal profiles. Let's look at three types of fastening schemes outer skin: wooden lining, the so-called block house - imitation of the wall surface log house, and vinyl siding.

1. Fastening the lining

If the clapboard board is attached horizontally, then we only need to “strengthen” our main frame so that there is no more than 70 cm between the vertical fastening elements. To do this, the frame panel house we install additional vertical posts (where necessary) from 10050 mm or 15025 mm boards in order to provide the required pitch. If you have a house made of brick or timber, then it will be enough to fix 5050 mm vertical bars on the walls, align them with the level, and, using pads, place them in the same plane. This version of the mounting frame is also suitable for cladding a block house. If the span between the elements of the fastening frame is made larger, then deformation of the installed sheathing boards is possible.

We start covering with clapboard from the bottom. The bottom board is installed strictly level and secured to the frame with the tenon pointing up. The next board is placed with its groove on the tenon of the previous board. It should be noted here that the boards do not always sit easily on top of each other; this can be hampered by manufacturing defects and deformations from improper drying. And the longer the board, the more difficult it is to evenly place it on the one below. Therefore, for proper settling, the board is finished off through spacers (made from a small piece of the same lining) in those places where a gap occurs.

The horizontality of the fixed lining is checked with a level through 2-3 boards. It is necessary to achieve the tightest possible fit of the boards, since as a result of the board drying out, the gaps will increase noticeably.

If the lining boards are positioned vertically during sheathing, then the elements of the fastening frame must be fixed horizontally with the same step - 70 cm, and the sheathing occurs using the same technology.

A few words about the method of fastening. The traditional combination is “wooden lining - nails”. It is preferable to use galvanized nails with a reduced head 50-60 mm long. Such a nail is driven into the base of the clapboard tenon not perpendicular to the board, but with a slight downward slope. Then the next board with a groove will cover the nail head and the wall will be “clean”. You can fasten the lining using clamps - steel strips of a certain shape. They are put on the clapboard tenon and secured to the wall with nails or self-tapping screws. The point of using clamps is the same - to get a “clean” wall.

2. Siding

Any wall material, depending on its strength and other features, has its own fastening scheme, and it must be strictly adhered to. This is especially true for siding. To install siding, you need an appropriate frame mounted according to the scheme of a ventilated facade, that is, with a gap between the siding and the insulation (if, of course, it is installed). We use 6040 mm or 5050 mm bars as material for the frame; do not forget to impregnate them with an antiseptic composition. The bars are installed on the wall vertically, strictly in one plane (this is achieved using pads) with a step of 40 cm. The same bars should be installed around windows, doors, at all corners, as well as at the top and bottom of the siding installation area. A layer of insulation is placed in the space between the bars, which is covered with a vapor-permeable “membrane”. Next, another row of 5025 mm bars is mounted directly on the installed bars - thus creating a ventilated gap between the siding and the thermal insulation. These bars are secured with self-tapping screws every 40 cm. After this, you can begin installing the siding.

A little about the rules for installing siding

2. Only stainless (galvanized or aluminum) nails 40 mm long with a head diameter of 10 mm are suitable for fastening, otherwise after some time rust streaks will appear on the front surface of the siding.

3. When attaching siding, do not hammer the nails in completely - leave a gap of 1-1.5 mm, also taking into account temperature deformation.

4. Nails should be driven perpendicular to the wall and exactly into the center of the perforated hole.

5. The siding must be nailed in such a way that there are gaps for temperature deformations. Therefore, when installing, say, connecting strips, you need to make sure that the edges of the siding do not rest against the strip, but that a gap of 6 mm remains.

6. The top panel is first connected to the bottom, then a slight upward movement of the top panel snaps it into place with the bottom panel, after which it is nailed. Do not pull on a pre-nailed panel.

7. Do not drive nails into the face of the panel.

Following all these rules will help avoid swelling, deformation and damage to the siding due to temperature changes.

Further installation is carried out according to the instructions included with the material you purchased. We only note that, as a rule, connecting and finishing strips are installed first and only after that the main cladding panels are installed.

What is a ventilated façade?

A modern and competent solution from the point of view of construction technologies. What is the highlight here, so to speak, and the main difference from the usual version sheathing? The difference is that between the insulation layer and the sheathing material (let it be, for example, siding) a gap of 25-50 mm wide is left for ventilation of the insulation layer. What is its meaning?

Firstly, circulating air helps maintain normal humidity insulation (even if it is “capricious” mineral wool). Condensation does not get on it.

Secondly, this gap will help the insulation get wet less and dry faster in case of local leaks.

Thirdly, the ventilated gap helps the rooms not to heat up during the warm period, isolating the cladding material heated in the sun from interior wall. Another plus is that the structure breathes better, since thanks to the gap, the insulation is not tightly closed with an airtight “membrane”.

If you want to better protect the insulation from moisture from the outside (street) side, then you need to install a waterproofing, but at the same time breathable, vapor-permeable film. Although this is currently a rather rare material on the market, many large insulation manufacturers have already mastered its production, and it is beginning to enter our market. It is highly not recommended to use polyethylene, roofing felt and similar non-breathable material as a waterproofing layer.

Siding is a popular type of exterior cladding. Suitable for many types of residential and industrial buildings. This option is especially relevant for buildings made of foam blocks and SIP panels.

The light weight of the finishing material does not place a large load on the base of the building, so old wooden structures can be sheathed with siding. The popularity of siding is associated with its low cost, long service life and a wide selection of textures and colors.

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Preparatory activities

The quality of the preparatory work will depend on the quality of the preparatory work. exterior finishing and its service life. The essence of the preparation is as follows:

1. Remove protruding elements.
2. Using polyurethane foam fill existing gaps in walls, near windows and doors.
3. Clean the surface of the external walls of the building from accumulated dirt. Delete old finishing material, mold and rotten parts.
4. If the cladding will be done on wooden walls, then treat them with antiseptic solutions.
5. Treat foam block walls with a deep penetration primer.

Sheathing device

When arranging the frame, you need to observe the following measures:

1. Install vertical bars 30/40, 50/50. You can use racks made of metal profiles - PP 60/27. Applying wooden crafts, they need to be treated with an antiseptic.
2. When installing vertical racks the distance between them is 40-60 cm.
3. Mount the timber to the walls with hangers. They can be short, medium or long. When choosing between them, you need to know the thickness of the heat insulator, which determines the distance from the wall to the material.
4. The hangers are attached to the wall using self-tapping screws. When finishing wooden building You can attach the bars to the wall with siding only if it is level.
5. Form the corners using the method of connecting the posts to each other. Make sure that they are located at an angle of 90 degrees to each other.
6. Installation of the sheathing is carried out after installing the corner posts. Place the cord between them. It is necessary to fix the remaining racks.

Insulation

Thermal insulation material is placed in the gap that has formed between the sheathing and the wall.

Various insulation materials are suitable for this:

mineral wool;
Styrofoam;
penoplex.

For maximum reliability thermal insulation material additionally fixed to the wall.

More details about the arrangement of the frame and insulation from the following video:

Corner profile fastener

Installation can only be carried out after the drainage system has been installed on the foundation. Its upper part will be concentrated along the previously designated line. Although this design is rigid, its fastening is much simpler than an elastic launch panel. Mount corner profiles with self-tapping screws. Secure them at the top of the hole. Further fasteners screw it into the middle.

To increase length, top bar install on the bottom with an edge overlay, which will be 2-3 cm. Mount the first plank along the pre-designated lines on top of the drainage system. Move up 5 cm from the bottom edge of the corner profile and attach the first strip.

Install window trims near the window. This should be done so that the outer edge, compared to the outer one, is concentrated at a level of 2-3 cm lower. To line the doorways, use a J-profile. The corners of these planks are sharp, and they can be obtained by sawing.

For vertical installation of H-profiles in pre-designated locations, a level is used. Leave a gap of 5-6 cm to the level of the cornice and foundation. This will protect the bar from deformation during expansion. The J-profile is fixed where the roof ends.

Fixing panels

Getting started finishing works, the following recommendations must be followed:

1. The initial panel is fastened with self-tapping screws. It is fixed in the longitudinal direction to the transverse posts. Start working from the bottom of the wall. The peculiarity of fastening the material is that finishing is done moving from bottom to top.
2. Each blade is equipped with grooves at the bottom and top. Insert the lower part into the initial panel, and slide the panel of the second row onto the upper groove and snap it into place.
3. There is a cutout on the sides of the siding. Its main task is to ensure that one panel overlaps the previous one. This avoids a gap between them.
4. When the J-profile is secured to the last row of siding, the wall cladding is complete. The siding includes holes for ventilation, so installing a vapor barrier is not required.

You can learn more about siding from the video:

Gable trim

To finish the pediment you need:

1. Arrange the frame in advance. The bars are fixed with self-tapping screws. Maintain a distance of 30-40 cm between them. Installation of the sheathing should be carried out near the openings, in the corners, at the top and bottom of the pediment.
2. Finishing is done first on the transverse external and internal corners. Then the connecting strip is installed. Screw the fasteners into the top hole, and then into the remaining ones.
3. When all the vertical strips have been fixed, you can install the initial strips. Using the J-profile, fixation is carried out near the window.
4. Once the installation of the fittings is complete, the siding strips can be installed. The vinyl strip fits into the starting strip lock. The top panel is strengthened using a J-profile.

The finishing of the pediment is clearly shown in the following video:

Finishing a house with siding is one of the most popular today. This is explained by the attractive appearance of the house, low price and ease of installation work. By spending a minimum of time and effort, you can insulate your house, protect it from unfavorable atmospheric factors, and give it a presentable appearance.