How to lay tiles on a wooden floor? How to lay tiles on a wooden floor? DIY ceramic tiles for wooden floors.

Ceramic tiles are considered an ideal material for walls and floors of rooms exposed to moisture and temperature changes. These are, as a rule, kitchens, bathrooms, baths. True, the process of laying it itself is fraught with certain difficulties due to the need for a suitable foundation and some experience of such work for a home craftsman. As for the second, here they will come to the rescue skillful hands and the desire to achieve what was planned at any cost. But regarding the basis, the issue is controversial. This cannot be done without proper knowledge; all work must be carried out in accordance with the requirements technological process, non-compliance with which can lead to the fact that the floor covering will ultimately turn out to be of poor quality and will not be able to perform required functions. In principle, today, carrying out repairs with your own hands is an activity, one might say, even fashionable, so many home craftsmen have at least rudimentary knowledge in this regard regarding the technologies for carrying out certain works. Nevertheless, sometimes there are situations that are perplexing due to the originality of the question. For example: “Can it be laid on tiles?” Agree, this will not come to everyone’s mind, because, as a rule, ceramics are usually laid on a concrete base. And not for wood. However, sometimes there are still situations when it is literally vital to lay tiles on a wooden floor - in a bathhouse, for example, or in the kitchen of a private house. What to do in this case? It's just a whim of someone who doesn't understand anything. finishing works owner or is this really possible? Let's try to answer this difficult question. So, is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor?

About the compatibility of ceramics and wood

In principle, here you can get by with just a few words. These two materials are practically incompatible. And you can “make friends” with each other only by creating special conditions. The tree cannot tolerate instability of the temperature background, constantly changing its size as it changes. It is not difficult to imagine what will happen to the ceramics, under which, so to speak, lumber lives its own special life, being in constant motion. The tile will naturally begin to crack, move away from the base, and chips will appear on it under the influence of loads. In turn, the tree, tightly “packed” under the ceramics, will not be able to receive the much-needed air, which is why it will begin to rot and deform. In general, it turns out to be a kind of vicious circle. Is it possible to break it? How can the owner of a private house, who can no longer watch without tears how his wood flooring becomes less and less attractive every day from constant exposure to moisture or temperature changes, install tiles on wood or in the kitchen? Let's say right away: this can be done. But it should be done only if there are really compelling reasons, because the procedure for preparing a wooden base will take a lot of time, and in addition, it will require very significant expenses, effort and money. Are you ready to part with both the first and the second? Well, good luck. As they say, nothing is impossible. If you really want it, why not try it. True, you will have to thoroughly study the process technology and choose the appropriate option for your case.

When the procedure is not possible

Our home craftsmen are sometimes quite capricious and stubborn. A person needs ceramic tiles on a wooden floor - and that’s it. And the last one was installed quite recently; the house was occupied almost a few days ago. This is the option when, unfortunately, you won’t be able to please yourself. Such an idea will have to be abandoned in any case. Because a new wooden floor covering will still have to acclimatize for at least three years, getting used to unusual conditions, and shrink, the end of which must certainly be waited for. And only then implement your plans.

A few words about the basic foundation

So, what does someone who sets out to lay tiles on a wooden floor have in their assets as a basic foundation? We have already said that the new coating is not subject to such arrangement. This means that the home craftsman will most likely have three types of flooring as a base. These are worn-out and unattractive boards lying on relatively strong joists, a floor made of plywood or fiberboard, which also causes despondency with its appearance, but still amenable to reincarnation, and relatively strong, staying in in good condition plank covering on which tiles are required due to current circumstances. Regardless of which option is available, the home craftsman will be faced with one task: to create a strong and even base suitable for laying ceramics. The difference will be the appearance repair work and their volume. Therefore, before laying tiles on a wooden floor - in a bathroom, bathhouse, hallway, kitchen, it doesn’t matter - you need to carefully study the existing base and choose the appropriate preparation method. Actually, there are two of them. This dry leveling and wet. But in any case, you need to remember one thing: laying tiles on a wooden floor without a screed and careful preparation of the base will not work. As a matter of fact, difficulties, especially ones created with one’s own hands, will have to be overcome in any case. And to make it easier for the home craftsman, we will then tell you in detail about all the preparation options.

Dry leveling

Its principle is to create an additional rough layer for cladding on an existing base. This can be done by installing sheets of plywood - always moisture-resistant - directly on the existing “original” base, creating an additional floor covering on joists with insulation between the old and new floors, and using ready-made sets of adjustable floors mounted on top of the existing worn-out base. In addition, today there is another material at the disposal of those who want to lay tiles on a wooden floor - gypsum fiber boards. They will not only successfully replace plywood, but also, thanks to their special composition, will help create a normal microclimate for the base boards.

Pros and cons of the dry method

This tile option is considered the most common. Which is not surprising, since it has a lot of advantages and only one drawback. The first concerns primarily the speed of work. You can level the floor in this way quite quickly, without breaks between stages, which most often slow down the repair process. In addition, if you choose the option with logs, then by laying insulation you can significantly increase the insulating qualities of the surface. Well, the third plus is the creation of a minimal load on an already not distinguished quality characteristics. As for the minuses, as we have already mentioned, there is only one - this method of leveling “eats up” the height of the room. Therefore, it is sometimes impractical to use it in rooms with low ceilings.

Wet method

Essentially, this is the same screed, the difference is that it is made on a wooden surface and with some reservations. The latter include the fact that, firstly, it should be lightweight (no more than three centimeters) due to the not very good condition of the wooden floor and its inability to bear significant loads, and secondly, it is not made over the entire surface, but with gaps along the perimeter. This is a kind of floating option. Thanks to this trick ceramic coating will not suffer from the movement of wooden elements, which in any case cannot be calmed in any way.

Advantages and disadvantages of screeds

Here, in principle, everything is quite conditional. The undoubted advantage of this method is that it will have virtually no effect on the height of the room, but a huge disadvantage is that the procedure itself is quite lengthy, requiring significant breaks between stages. But sometimes those who are looking for an answer to the question of whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor have no choice. If a screed is the only acceptable option, then you will have to put up with temporary losses.

Well, now that we’ve sorted out the theory, let’s move on directly to the process itself.

Preparing the old floor

Whatever leveling method the home craftsman prefers, the old plank base requires preparation in any case. Lay the tiles on a wooden floor in the bathroom, and even in a room less exposed to moisture, without carrying out preliminary work Repairing and cleaning the base surface will not be possible.

First of all, you need to check the integrity of the floorboards and the joists themselves. If any elements become unusable, they need to be replaced. Then you need to remove all the paint. If you plan to make additional flooring on joists, then the base leveling is not required, but if you use plywood, gypsum fiber board, chipboard or wet screed, you will have to arm yourself grinder and carefully cut off all the humps. Then the old floorboard should be treated with an antiseptic and existing cracks should be filled with putty if possible. And then be sure to drill ventilation holes. And only then start leveling.

Leveling process without screed

In principle, there is nothing complicated here. If an additional floor covering is created on joists, then first the supports are installed with a step between them of 30 cm, then the insulation is laid, after which everything is covered with moisture-resistant plywood. If you plan to level the prepared plank base simply with plywood or gypsum plasterboard sheets, then they are attached directly to the base surface with self-tapping screws. All resulting seams and cracks around the perimeter must be sealed. Foam is excellent for these purposes. Upon completion of installation work new surface primed. Experts advise not to save money and purchase “Betonokontakt”.

Pay attention!

Important point! If the master decides to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a bathhouse with his own hands or in a bathroom, that is, in those rooms that are most susceptible to moisture, then before leveling it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer on the wooden surface. It can be thick polyethylene, bitumen paper, or roofing felt.

Filling the screed

IN in this case, regardless of the room in which the work is carried out, a layer of waterproofing is required. After this, a reinforcing mesh is applied to it, and sides made of a special tape, which in the language of experts is called damper tape, are installed around the perimeter of the room. Remember we mentioned that the screed should not be monolithic, but floating? This limiter will create necessary conditions. After this, you can fill in any suitable mixture for the screed. It is best, of course, to take a leveling compound. After drying (this process should take at least two weeks), the surface is primed. At this point, the question “is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor” is considered closed. Now you can. Which, in fact, is the time to start after the primer has dried.

Laying tiles

So, on a wooden (photo of the final result below) floor? Yes, just like what everyone is used to. Now, after proper preparation, there will be no problems. The only nuance that you should pay attention to: it is better to buy tile adhesive not ordinary, but more durable, intended for porcelain tiles.

Choose the laying pattern that you like best (traditional, diagonal, brick, etc.) and begin the process. If you select a diagonal, then start from the center. If there is another way, then from the most visible angle, so that the trimming is not noticeable. The adhesive composition is applied directly to the base, the rows are laid strictly under level control. Try to keep the layer of glue not very thick, as it creates additional stress on an already insufficient solid foundation, which is a wooden floor. After installation, the joints are grouted. This can be done a day after the end of the whole process.

Conclusion

What conclusion can be drawn? As we found out, it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor. The main thing is to competently carry out all the necessary preparatory work and create a reliable and even base for the tiles.

The success of installation and long-term service life of the floor covering is determined by 50% competent preparation grounds. According to clear construction regulations, only a perfectly leveled surface capable of “holding” the weight of the ceramics and its own stable position can become a worthy basis for tiles. Due to the fact that the “windy yoke” of wood is not inclined to remain constant, laying tiles on a wooden floor for a long time was considered a pointless procedure. However there is construction plans, the use of which can reconcile the “playful” nature of the building material with the harsh character of tiled or clinker finishes.

How to reconcile ceramics with a wooden base?

Due to the organic origin of wood, it cannot be classified as an “unshakable” building material. It shrinks from lack of moisture, swells from excess. A new wooden floor still settles for one and a half to two years after construction, and even after the period set for post-construction shrinkage has expired, movement still occurs. Movement imperceptible to the human eye negatively affects the solidity of the tiled surface. Structural connections are broken, tiles peel off and crack. As a result, not only all the work goes down the drain, but also a lot of money invested in finishing.

This means that the task of a home-grown finisher is to create a kind of damper layer that absorbs the characteristic movement of wooden elements. The hard outer part of this layer must be turned towards the ceramic coating, and the elastic rear should be exposed to the shocks and blows of the wood. In addition, the wood hidden underneath needs to breathe, otherwise it will quickly rot, overcome by fungi and mold.

Preparatory stage - preparation of the base

By wooden floor we obviously mean not only plank floorboards visible from the outside. This is a multilayer structure consisting of powerful beams, lags laid “in a cross” along them and a substrate located under the boards. Before tiles are laid on a wooden floor, all elements of this complex system must be thoroughly inspected and tested.

Inspection of the wooden base

Since it is recommended to finish a new wood floor exclusively with tongue and groove boards, it is not difficult to guess that the floor will have to be dismantled for inspection. After all, the floor with wooden floorboards has already served its purpose. The absence of squeaks and wobbly boards is not an excuse for laziness. It is possible that the problem that is already brewing may simply not be felt.

Attention. If the joists were laid at intervals of more than 50 cm, the floor will need to be completely re-laid, otherwise it will not support the weight of the ceramic-finished screed.

Let's assume that the design completely satisfies us. Then we carry out inspection, repair and preparation in the following sequence:

remove the existing floor covering;
we check beams and joists, replace damaged or beginning to rot elements;
we check horizontality and carry out alignment;

Please note. If you raise the lag in the usual way– by driving a wedge or placing scraps of lumber under it, it is impossible; the board must be sewn on top, then trim off the excess, focusing on the level readings.

We generously treat all components of the wooden floor with antiseptic impregnations, preferably mastics with the maximum renewal frequency indicated in the technical specifications;
After the antifungal impregnation has dried, fill all the spaces between the joists with fine expanded clay. We fill the insulation so that between top line the log and the surface of this heat insulator left 5 cm for ventilation;
We are preparing to re-lay the floorboards; they will serve as a rough base, since gypsum fiber board or waterproof plywood, despite the convincing assurances of the manufacturers, will not withstand intense exposure to moisture and repeated temperature fluctuations. Although dry leveling with plasterboard, chipboards or plywood is quite suitable for arranging a bathroom, a small bath kitchenette and a rest room;

Attention. If you want to install tiles on a wooden subfloor covered with used boards, you will need to remove the paint or varnish from the floorboards. It is easier and cheaper to remove the coating with sandpaper or a sharp scraper. You can quickly remove it using a special chemical “wash” or a hairdryer, which softens the protective and decorative coating.

we lay back the boards that have become rough, leaving 3-5 mm gaps between the floorboards to ensure the possible expansion of the rough floor. We fasten the boards with galvanized self-tapping screws (one in each row joist, two in the outer ones);
if there are minor defects, holes from former fasteners or knots, they need to be puttied;
level the laid subfloor grinder or simply sand it if leveling is not required;
There should be a centimeter technological gap around the perimeter of the floor. Fill it with silicone polyurethane foam or glue it with a polymer membrane tape (we bend a 30mm strip of membrane in half, attach one part to the lower edge of the wall, the other to the floor);
the gaps between the boards, between sheets of plywood, if it was used to level the floor in “dry” rooms, are also filled with foam or glued with membrane tapes;
To form a monolithic insulating layer, we treat the subfloor with heated drying oil or latex impregnation without the notorious savings.

Please note. Instead of mastic, you can use parchment paper, bitumen or waxed roll analogue.

If it was decided to carry out waterproofing with drying oil or impregnation, and not with roll insulation, without waiting for them to dry completely, the prepared surface must be completely covered with a painting mesh. This will create a continuous insulating layer for laying tiles on a wooden floor, protecting against moisture and compensating for the effects of wood movement.

Lightweight screed device

Now you need to form a solid, rigid base for the ceramic floor cladding. This will be a standard screed, but lighter and more refined, since the wood does not need extra pressure at all.

Base for laying porcelain stoneware, clinker or tiles You can arrange it on a wooden floor in three ways:

Pouring a standard cement screed, the thickness of which does not exceed 3 cm. First, we lay a metal mesh over the waterproofing and fasten it with self-tapping screws to the rough base, then pour in a traditional cement mortar, which can be replaced with a polymer screed.

Instead of the compositions intended for forming screeds, we use KS glue with a base of liquid glass. A two-component polyurethane adhesive will do instead. After polymerization, it will also create an elastic layer that prevents cracking of the tiles due to the deformation vagaries of wood.

Please note. You can make a solution with liquid glass for pouring screed yourself. To do this, you need to mix one part of water, two parts of washed and sifted coarse sand and two parts of liquid glass.

In the “dry” rooms of the bathhouse, you can do quick dry leveling DSP slabs or moisture-resistant drywall. We lay them “in a run” at an angle of 30º to the direction of laying the rough boards so that the butt seams do not coincide. The seams can be additionally glued with a compound designed for working with gypsum plasterboard.

Description of the tile laying process technology

Before gluing, we’ll do a preliminary “try-on” and figure out how to lay the tiles on the floor more beautifully. Trimming cannot be avoided, but it is better to place the trimmed parts in shaded areas and on the periphery of the room. Therefore, we will begin the preliminary layout from the central part and from the maximum illuminated area. We will immediately determine how many tiles will need to be cut and prepare them in advance. If you don’t need to cut a lot of tiles, just stock up on a tile cutter. For numerous cuttings of tiles, you will need a grinder.

Further steps for laying ceramic tiles on a properly prepared wooden floor are no different from standard methods, So:

To begin with, it is recommended to find the center by intersecting the diagonals. We divide the room into four equal segments, drawing directions with coated painter's cord along the walls or diagonally, depending on the chosen layout.
We prepare the glue in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. We do not spread it more than is required to finish 1 m² of floor.

Apply the solution with a spatula-comb to the floor surface. The size of the teeth of a comb tool depends on the dimensions of the ceramic elements. For large tiles 0.8 mm, for a smaller one.
We lay the tiles on the surface treated with glue, inserting plastic crosses into the butt seams, or in extreme cases, matches.
We constantly control the longitudinal and transverse directions, as well as horizontality, by applying a block to several tiles.

Please note. It is only possible to level the masonry and correct defects for now glue solution won't harden. Longitudinal and transverse directions can be adjusted by slightly moving them. The “sunken” tiles need to be separated, the missing mortar added and laid again.

All adhesive “bloopers” from the surface of the tile must be removed with a damp rag, without waiting for the solution to set. After installation is completed and the glue has hardened, the seams are moistened and rubbed.

Ceramic tile flooring is a practical option for wet rooms. This is explained by its high performance characteristics - aesthetics, durability, resistance to moisture, rotting and deformation.

Homeowners often have doubts about whether they can install tiles over wood floors. Of course, it is possible, but with strict adherence to the installation technology of the facing material.

Is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor?

Ceramic tiles and wood are practically incompatible materials, since wood, like any material of organic origin, dries out and becomes deformed over time. It can also swell and crack, even if it is well secured.

If you put a layer of tile adhesive, or make a cement screed directly on the floorboard, then the movement of the wood will certainly lead to peeling of the tiles, cracks in the screed and, consequently, loss of money and time for the next floor repair.

The main task is to create a shock-absorbing layer between the wooden floor surface and the tiles that will compensate for the micro-movements of the base without transferring them to the layer of tile adhesive.

The demand and popularity of ceramic tiles allows them to be widely used for covering old wooden floors. Laying ceramics is allowed on following types grounds:

frame,
log,
lumber,
panel board

Laying tiles on a wooden floor requires taking into account the specifics of the surface, its high-quality preparation and compliance with installation technology.

Based on the results of the preliminary inspection of the wooden base, the following activities are carried out:

The surface is in good operating condition without damage - floor preparation and tile laying are in progress.
The surface is damaged or deformed - installation is impossible. To begin with, a complete or partial restoration is carried out with the replacement of damaged areas.

A damper layer is installed between the tile and the base to absorb possible movement of the floor. It also provides additional protection for the floor from increased moisture and prevents premature aging of the wood.

Difficulties in installing floor coverings

Neglecting the basic rules for preparing the base and laying floor ceramics can lead to:

To deformation, cracking and damage to the cladding as a result of wood movement.
To damage by rot and mold in rooms with high humidity.

In the process of installing tiles, novice craftsmen may encounter some difficulties:

Insufficient rigidity of the base due to the mobility of wood for fixing floor ceramics.
Insufficient oxygen access to the lower part of the floor structure.
Uneven distribution of maximum loads over the entire surface area.

Installation floor tiles V wooden house after completion of construction, as well as the installation of floors with wooden floors, is not produced. Work is possible only after complete shrinkage of the structure after 3-4 years. If the house is built of brick, reinforced concrete or cinder block, then flooring can be done at any time.

Features of laying tiles in the bathroom and kitchen

Ceramic tiles are often used to protect wooden surfaces in rooms and buildings with high humidity - hallway, shower room, kitchen, corridor, bathroom, bathhouse and swimming pool.

The main difference is that in the bathroom, kitchen and other functional areas the air is oversaturated with moisture and steam. This requires additional waterproofing of the surface. For these purposes, PVC film or bitumen-based roofing felt is used.

An excellent alternative is moisture-resistant plasterboard and cement-bonded particle boards up to 2 cm thick. Waterproofing materials are mounted on pre-installed bitumen roofing felt and secured with self-tapping screws.

Important! The gaps between waterproofing material and walls are carefully filled with polyurethane foam. This will provide additional strength to the base.

The prepared surface is primed, after which the tiles are laid.

Preparing the wooden base

Before You Execute facing works must be properly prepared wooden surface. The construction of a multi-layer floor pie will ensure solidity and ventilation of the base, reducing the load on the wood.

First, dismantling is carried out wooden structure floor. Deformed and damaged elements are replaced with new ones. If necessary, the lag laying step is reduced and the surface is leveled. Additionally, the structure is treated with antiseptic compounds.

Instructions for the preliminary preparation of a wooden floor include the following steps:

Stage 1. Dismantling the base and preliminary cleaning of the paintwork. Surface cleaning is carried out in three ways:

Chemical. Treating wooden floors with chemicals that help dissolve varnishes and paints.
Teplov. Heating the base using a hair dryer and dismantling the coating with a metal spatula.
Mechanical. Removing the coating using a power tool - an angle grinder with an attachment, a grinder or medium-grain paper.

Stage 2. Checking the condition of individual floor structural elements - joists and beams, replacing them with new parts and leveling the surface.

Stage 3. Antiseptic treatment surfaces. Wood is susceptible to high moisture and temperature changes, and therefore requires maximum protection from rot, deformation and mold. Treatment is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, observing the interval and intensity of application.

Stage 4. Arrangement of a thermal insulation layer. For insulation, fine expanded clay is used to fill the free space between the joists in the floor. To maintain natural ventilation, a 6 cm technological gap is provided between the lower part of the log and the insulation.

Stage 5. Installation of subfloor. For these purposes, a clean and level board is used, which is fixed to the base using galvanized screws. The surface is leveled with a thin layer of putty. The distance from the wall to the floorboard is filled with foam.

Instead of a floorboard, 12 mm plywood or chipboard sheets after pre-treatment antiseptics.

Waterproofing layer under tiles

Thorough surface waterproofing will ensure long term operation of floor cladding. For these purposes, practical, wear-resistant and reliable material, resistant to moisture penetration and condensation.

The surface is treated with heated drying oil or latex-based impregnation, over which a special damper tape is laid overlapping. It provides the necessary shock absorption and compensation for movements of the wooden base.

Double-sided shock-absorbing tape is installed with the elastic side facing the wood and the durable side facing the tiles. An additional benefit of using a damper layer is to maintain natural ventilation and prevent moisture penetration.

Methods for leveling the floor surface

To lay tiles on a prepared wooden floor, you need to create a reliable monolithic surface. This can be done in three ways:

dry method,
method of pouring cement- concrete screed,
express way.

Dry leveling

Quite a popular way to get flat surface with the help moisture-resistant plasterboard, plywood and OSB boards. Such materials are characterized by increased strength and static properties, resistant to deformation and rotting.

Dry surface leveling is different:

Increasing the thermal insulation characteristics of the base.
Simplicity and accessibility of the technological process of laying insulation.

Among the disadvantages are:

A significant rise in floor level, which is unacceptable for small rooms with low ceilings.
Visual difference between a smooth and untreated surface.

Dry leveling is carried out according to the following scheme:

Installation of thermal insulation, treatment with protective compounds and fixation of the overlapping paint mesh.
Filling with a leveling dry mixture of expanded clay chips, sand and other binding components. Uniform distribution of the mixture over the entire surface.
Installation of the selected material - plywood or slabs - in a checkerboard pattern so that the joints between the individual elements do not coincide.
Cleaning the surface and joints with a grinder and treating with a deep penetration primer mixture.

Wet screed

The method of leveling the surface is similar to creating a conventional screed for decorative finishing.

A floating screed is prepared from leveling polymer and cement-sand mixtures.

Its main advantage is the creation monolithic base, resistant to movement of the wooden structure. And the disadvantages include: an increase in the height of the floor cake, significant labor and financial costs.

Construction work wet screed are performed in the following order:

Increasing the strength of the base. If the logs are located at intervals of 50 cm from each other, then it will be necessary to check and replace the deformed areas with reinforcement of the structure using bars.
Installation of intermediate flooring from boards. For these purposes, solid floorboards up to 4 cm thick are used, which are fixed to logs while maintaining technological gaps of 1 cm.
Installation of plywood or slabs up to 12 mm thick, similar to brickwork. Technological gaps between individual elements are 3 mm.
Installation of a waterproofing layer of polyethylene film or oiled paper over the entire surface of the floor, secured with double-sided tape.
Pouring a ready-made leveling mixture or cement-sand screed up to 10 mm high over the entire surface.

Express method of surface leveling

It is used to level surfaces that are in excellent operating condition or have minor visual defects. For work, moisture-resistant cardboard is used, which is fixed to the rough board using self-tapping screws or special polymer-based glue.

The main advantages of the method include simplicity and low cost of installation, and resistance to temperature changes in wood.

The process itself is performed as follows:

Before installing drywall, the horizontalness of the floorboards is checked. Differences are eliminated using improvised means: wax paper, roofing felt or fiberboard.
Drywall is mounted on the surface brickwork in two layers. It is important to ensure that the joints between the rows do not match.
A gap is provided around the perimeter of the base, and the seams between the individual elements are filled with sealant.
The base is carefully treated with a primer mixture.
The gap is filled with polyurethane foam, after which the baseboard is installed.

Laying ceramic tiles

The technology for installing tiles on a wooden surface is quite simple to master on your own. First you need to prepare working tools and materials:

Ceramic tiles.
Crosses for tiles.
Tile adhesive.
Construction mixer.
A spatula with teeth.
Rubber hammer.
Tile cutter
Level.

There are several options for installing tiles: rectangular and checkerboard, herringbone, diamond or pattern.

Important! First, the material is dry laid on the surface to select the optimal installation method.

The main stages of laying tiles on a prepared base:

Marking the perimeter and dividing the room into four zones diagonally.
Prepare the adhesive mixture according to the manufacturer's instructions per 1 square area.
Apply the mixture with a spatula and distribute it evenly on the surface for mounting two elements.
Installing the tiles on the adhesive mixture with soft tapping with a hammer to ensure that each element shrinks tightly. Placing crosses in the seam space to adjust the seam width.
Next, the material is laid to fill the entire floor surface.
Checking the quality of masonry using a building level.
After the adhesive mixture has completely dried, remove the crosses and grout the tile joints.

High-quality tiles laid on a wooden floor will provide a reliable and practical coating that will last for decades. The main thing in this matter is to follow the installation technology, and also take into account professional advice and recommendations.

Ceramic tiles are an excellent material for flooring, especially in rooms with high humidity or where there is a high likelihood of liquids or other substances getting onto the floor. Typical examples– bathroom, toilet, hallway, kitchen. They do not refuse to use tiles in residential premises if the floor is equipped with a heating system.

But what about the owners of private housing, in which all the floors originally wooden? A similar question may arise for owners of apartments in old buildings, where the plank covering is mounted on joists. Is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor?

You can immediately reassure those who are worried - this is a completely doable operation that does not require complete dismantling of the coating to the ground or concrete base and subsequent pouring of a thick concrete screed. True, you will have to work hard, since the success of such a modification of the coating will mainly depend on the quality and strength of the wooden base.

Taking on the task of laying tiles if there is even the slightest suspicion that the wooden base is unstable is the height of recklessness. This is explained simply:

Wood is a fairly flexible material, tending to return to its original configuration after deformation. But what is “excusable” for a wooden floor (slight deflection, springing, etc.) absolutely unacceptable for ceramics. Each individual tile is very rigid and cannot be bent. If the floor “plays”, it may simply crack.
Another case is if, for example, the ceramic tiles are small-format. Cement-containing tile adhesive also does not like dynamic bending loads. It will definitely develop small cracks, begin to delaminate, and the tile, even maintaining its integrity, will simply move away from the base.

We should not forget that the load on the coating will increase significantly - in addition to everything else, the ceramic tiles themselves, mortars, etc. have considerable weight. possible elements the design of the created multi-layer “pie” of the floor. Thus, wooden base must have guaranteed staticity. This is exactly what needs to be achieved at the first stage of work.

It is clear that the first step is always a thorough visual inspection, applying efforts to the most problematic areas of the wooden floor in order to identify its possible vibrations and sources of squeaks. If there are any, then no questions should arise at all - the coating must be thoroughly rebuilt and repaired, and not only in places of instability, since strengthening the floor in one place does not guarantee that it will not appear in another. It is necessary to understand the cause and eliminate it at the root.

Sometimes after dismantling the floor a “scary” picture appears

Moreover, experienced craftsmen always advise, in all cases of laying tiles on a wooden base, to carry out a complete search of it. If you are planning a ceramic coating, then you have to think that it is long term perspective, and not for a year or two. Where is the guarantee that a defect hidden by a wooden floor or a process of wood decomposition that has begun, which does not appear in any way today, will not be discovered literally in a month or even a year, when the tiled covering has already been completely laid? To carry out repairs, you will have to remove all the tiles, dismantle the wooden base - and all due to the fact that the proper principles were not shown during the preparation. Isn’t it better to be completely, 100% confident in the reliability and stability of the wooden floor before you start laying tiles?

Don’t let this prospect be particularly scary - compared to completely dismantling a wooden floor and pouring a new concrete slab to replace it, this procedure is much simpler and requires significantly less labor and financial investment.

So, the usual layout of a wooden floor is a plank covering mounted on logs. The logs themselves can be installed according to concrete base. Another option is that they are a double timber covering system, with a rough and finished floor and a space between them, which can be filled with thermal insulation material. With any type of floor inspection, you will have to remove the boardwalk completely to expose the joists for inspection, repair and alignment.

If the condition of any of the joists causes even the slightest concern - there are cracks or areas with signs of wood decomposition, it must be unconditionally replaced.
If the distance between adjacent joists exceeds 500 mm, it will be necessary to install additional bars, otherwise even the thickest batten may give a bend in this place.
The logs must be leveled horizontally. If they are securely embedded, and it is not possible to change the height of the supports, this can be achieved teasing using a plane, or, conversely, by extending it with a wooden plank.
Of course, if there is a subfloor, it should also be given some repairs - replace worn out or cracked boards, eliminate possible distortions, creaks, etc. When it is ready, both it and the logs are covered with a layer of dense waterproofing film.
If you already have the opportunity to get to the joists and subfloor, you should take the opportunity and treat all the parts with antiseptic and water-repellent compounds. You should not attribute your reluctance to carry out this procedure to the fact that similar treatment was carried out earlier, during the initial installation of the floor - the compositions are inexpensive, the process itself will not take much time, but the durability of the structure will certainly increase.

Literally every board of the removed flooring is checked for integrity, the presence of weak areas, cracks, hammered and bent unnecessary nails, etc. All boards with significant flaws should be disposed of and replaced with fresh ones.
An important action that should not be forgotten is cleaning the finished floor boards from old paint layers if subsequent laying of tiles is planned directly on them. Creating a reliable base for tiles involves working with a cleaned wood structure.

This cleaning can be done in several ways:

So, paint or varnish can be removed in advance by scraping or using abrasive materials– grinding and polishing machines, sandpaper or special attachments for a grinder or electric drill.

Sometimes used chemical method cleaning - washing off paint with solvents. However, this is not the most best option, because organic solvents are actively absorbed into wood, violating its natural qualities and reminding of themselves for a long time with an unpleasant, pungent odor.

The thermal method is widely used - using a hair dryer or even blowtorch. Under the influence of high temperatures paint coating either burns out or melts to such a state that it is easy to remove with an ordinary scraper (spatula).

Before you start reverse installation floorboards, it is possible to consider additional floor insulation. Expanded clay can be poured between the joists and mats can be laid mineral wool or polystyrene foam boards. Additional thermal insulation will never hurt anyone.
The reverse laying of the boards onto the joists is not carried out “solidly”, but leaving a gap of 3-5 mm between them is necessary so that the wooden floor under the tiles has the opportunity to “breathe” and to compensate for possible linear vibrations of the material. Another option is to drill through holes in the boards in a random order. Be sure to leave a gap at the walls around the entire perimeter of the room, about 10 mm. Any remaining gaps can be lightly covered with adhesive tape or foam.
After final installation floorboards onto joists using self-tapping screws, careful control of the quality of the coating is carried out once again. If no shortcomings are identified, you can proceed to preparing the base for laying ceramic tiles.

Several ways to prepare the base for laying tiles

So, we have a repaired, solid plank base. What should I do next to fully adapt it to laying ceramic tiles?

1. The tiles are supposed to be laid directly on top boards

First, you need to create a thin but stable and reliable waterproofing layer. To do this, the wooden floor is thickly treated with hot drying oil, but this method is quite outdated and also very unsafe, so it is better to use a latex impregnating composition. It is applied thickly with a wide brush to the floorboards, which immediately after this, without waiting for the composition to dry, are covered with a fine-mesh fiberglass painting mesh.

When the latex composition is completely dry, the mesh should be secured to the floor surface with galvanized self-tapping screws with wide heads for reliability.
The end result will be durable waterproofing coating, which, in addition, has certain reinforcing properties.
Now it’s tedious to achieve good adhesion of the tile adhesive to the resulting base. You can do it this way. Prepare a solution consisting of 2 parts large fraction sand, 2 parts silicate glue (often called “liquid glass”), and one part water. After thorough mixing, the resulting composition is evenly applied in a thin layer to the entire surface of the floor.

After complete drying, you will get a rough monolithic surface, completely ready for laying ceramic tiles.

Video: example of laying tiles directly on plank flooring

2. It is planned to fill a thin screed

If you look at the opinions of many experienced craftsmen, then some of them are categorically against laying tiles directly on a plank base. Their suggestion is to pour a small light screed on top of it.
The initial process - impregnation of the floorboards with a waterproofing compound - does not change.
Next, you should glue around the perimeter damper tape, preventing deformation and destruction of the screed near the walls.
A beacon system is installed, based on the screed thickness of about 30 mm. Between the beacons you can additionally lay a thin metal or fiberglass mesh.
For screed, you can use a standard basic cement-sand mortar with fine sifted sand (1: 3), but it is better to use special dry building mixtures, which include fiber fiber micro-reinforcement and plasticizers. This screed matures faster and is more durable for such conditions. In addition, nothing prevents the use of the technology of pouring a self-leveling composition.

After the screed has hardened and fully matured, it is treated with a primer, after which it can be considered ready for laying ceramic tiles.

3. The floorboards will be covered with plywood (chipboard, OSB)

If there is no desire to stir up dirt by filling the screed, the room does not belong to the category high humidity, but is characterized by a fairly intense dynamic load, then the plank base can be covered with plywood sheets 10 mm thick. The thickness may be greater, but we should not forget that this is an extra load on the joists and floorboards. By the way, here you can save on the floorboard - it is enough to lay it at intervals of even up to 150 -200 mm.

The work is carried out in next sequence:

The plank base, after antiseptic impregnation, is covered with waterproofing material. In the described case, this role can be played by waxed, waxed or bitumen-impregnated construction paper, or even ordinary polyethylene film thickness of at least 200 microns.
Sheets of plywood are laid out staggered so that there is always a compensation gap of 5 to 10 mm between them. A similar gap is left around the perimeter of the room along the walls.

The next step is to create a waterproofing reinforcing layer and prepare the surface for laying tiles. Here in se exactly the same as described above for the plank floor: latex impregnation → painting mesh → treatment with silicate-sand composition.

After this, you can proceed directly to laying the tiles.

4. Wooden floor closes gypsum fiber sheets (GVL)

This method is somewhat similar to that described above (with plywood), but it also has its own characteristic features:

As a rule, gypsum fiber boards are equipped with a locking part for mating adjacent sheets. In these places they are connected by a special adhesive composition and self-tapping screws. The use of self-tapping screws along the entire perimeter of the gypsum plasterboard and in its center is not required.

If the strength of the wooden subfloor allows, and operational features premises require special reliability of the coating; gypsum fiber boards can be laid in two layers. In this case, the second one should be oriented perpendicular to the first. Coincidence of joints is not allowed.

Approximate diagram of the resulting “pie” with two layers of gypsum fiber board

The GVL surface, after being treated with a primer, does not require any additional manipulations - it is ready for laying ceramic tiles.

The process of laying tiles on prepared wooden floor surface in principle, no different from conventional technology, which is discussed in detail. The only thing you should pay attention to is the brand of tile adhesive. It is best to choose a composition “for complex surfaces”, and some adhesive mixtures in the instructions for use directly indicate the possibility of using them for laying tiles on a wooden base. This installation of tiles will be more reliable.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

Laying tiles on a wooden floor is in most cases a difficult and troublesome task. This is due to the fact that very careful preparation of the base is required. Often this procedure is impractical: the tree is very mobile, it is constantly expanding or contracting. This creates increased stress on the ceramics and tile adhesive. The first begins to crack, the second begins to crumble. As a result, the floor covering may simply fall off. To avoid the troubles listed above, you must strictly follow the technology for laying ceramic tiles on wooden floors.

Floor preparation

Typically, a wooden floor is a plank covering laid on. Before laying tiles, you need to make sure the strength and reliability of the base. If necessary, carry out repair and restoration work. In this case, proceed as follows:

First, check the quality of the joists and subfloor. This is especially true for old floors. To do this, you will have to completely remove the boards or wood boards. If there is any doubt about the quality or reliability of an individual joist or board, then it must be replaced.

Important! The step between the lags should not exceed 50 cm: the tiles will put additional load on the boards; if the distance is too large, they will bend. If this rule is not followed, additional lags will have to be installed.

The joists must form a perfectly flat horizontal surface.

The subfloor and joists must be treated with an antiseptic, which is necessary to protect the wood from the destructive effects of fungus, dampness, mold, etc.
Then they move on to the wooden flooring: they also check the quality of the boards or slabs, replace them if necessary, and remove the old coating (varnish or paint).
Lay the plank base on the joists and check the quality of the resulting coating, remove protruding nails or screws, and sand.

But now it’s too early to start laying tiles on a wooden floor in a bathroom or any other room. The technology of fixing ceramics itself is not much different from the traditional one, but the base requires additional preparation using one of the methods below.

Laying directly on boards

Is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor without adding an additional layer? This option is the least reliable and therefore used least often.

The order of work will be as follows:

First you need to provide waterproofing. To do this, the boards are covered with a thick layer of a protective agent. You can use hot drying oil the old fashioned way or prefer a more modern latex composition.
Without waiting for the waterproofing agent to dry, lay a fiberglass painting mesh.
When the reinforcing coating has been laid and the protective layer has dried, the mesh is secured with self-tapping screws.
The surface is coated with a primer solution, which will enhance the adhesion of the floor.
Finally, the surface is covered with the following mixture: sand, liquid glass(or silicate glue) and water in a ratio of 2: 2: 1.

After drying, you can begin laying floor tiles.

On wood boards (OSB, chipboard, plywood)

This is the so-called “dry” method. When preparing the floor in this way, you won’t have to bother with solutions. However, this option is suitable for dry rooms where the humidity level is not higher than average, and where water rarely gets on the floor. Preparation for laying tiles on a wooden floor is carried out as follows:

The boards are treated with an antiseptic.

If wood boards are laid on top, then the boards themselves can be laid loosely. The gap can be up to 15 cm.

After the impregnation has dried, a waterproofing agent is applied on top. In this case, you will need plastic film or special construction paper (bitumen, waxed, etc.).
Lay out the sheets. The slabs should lie apart and loosely. The gap between them should be 5–10 mm. This is necessary to compensate for the expansion of the sheets. Compensation gaps are also left around the perimeter of the entire room.

The slabs are secured around the perimeter of the room and along the length using self-tapping screws. The caps should go completely into the sheet. As a result, the surface should remain flat.
Compensation gaps are sealed with sealant or foam. After drying, the excess sealant is cut off so that the material does not rise above the base. Then even laying of the ceramics will be possible.
A reinforced layer of waterproofing is also applied to the slabs, as described above.
Then the surface is also treated with a primer and or OSB.

Thin screed

There are more reliable ways to lay tiles. One of them is pouring a thin screed. This technique will protect the tiles from the constant vibrations of the expanding and contracting wood.

They also begin by treating the boards: first with an antiseptic, and then with a waterproofing compound.
A special tape is glued around the perimeter of the room, which will not allow the screed to collapse at the points of contact with the wall.
Install beacons. Typically, the thickness of a light screed does not exceed 3 cm. Beacons are installed at the appropriate height.

It is advisable to reinforce the base. To do this, a metal or fiberglass mesh is placed between the beacons.

Prepare a solution for the screed. This can be a standard mixture of cement, sand and water, prepared according to the instructions. But it is better to use more modern products containing plasticizers, reinforcing elements, etc., for example, self-leveling flooring.

While the solution is infused and matured, the floor is treated with a primer.
Fill the floor with screed and wait until it dries completely. Then the tiles are laid on the wooden floor.

On GVL

The result will be externally similar to the processing wood boards. However, the technology is slightly different: the boards must lie tightly, there is no talk of gaps.