How to properly plant a garden or vegetable plot. Garden plot: garden and vegetable garden planning

Planning a fruit and berry garden is a responsible task, the solution of which will determine the future supply of the family with tasty and varied fruits and berries. Therefore, when planning a site, you need to (as people say) hurry slowly.

Preparatory work

When planning land plot it is necessary to allocate an open area for the garden sunny place high standing groundwater. You cannot plant a garden in a low area where cold currents of air and water will flow during spring floods. After an external inspection of the land allocated for the garden, determine and write down a list of preparatory work in your diary.

woodcroft orchard

Clear the area of old stumps, wild bushes, stones and other debris.
Plow the area deeply or dig over the layer.
Water to encourage weed emergence. Carry out deep cultivation according to the seedlings and level the area.
At the same time, take the soil to the nearest chemical laboratory to determine the physical condition and type of soil, its chemical composition. This is necessary for subsequent garden care: applying fertilizers, watering, and other agrotechnical measures.
Based on the results of the analysis (according to the recommendations), enter the final autumn processing recommended doses of fertilizers and other reclamation components. Without such data, it is not advisable to fertilize the site. It is better to apply fertilizers and other components directly into the planting hole ( mineral fertilizers, humus or vermicompost, slaked lime, biological products for pests and diseases).

Zoning when planning garden and berry plantings

On a separate sheet of garden diary, draw a diagram of the layout of the garden. The garden can be located at the front, side or rear of the house, but trees and bushes should be positioned north to south for best light and have three zones. They can be located one after another or divided into three separate sections located at different ends of the total area of the dacha.

If the zoning is joint, then a vegetable garden is planted in the first zone, the plants of which will not shade the crops of the second zone, and in the morning they will receive their share of the sun.
It is better to place berry gardens in the second zone. Their height is up to 1.5 meters. The morning shadow from the bushes will not harm the plants of the third zone.
In the third zone the plant itself will be planted orchard. It should be at a distance of 2.5-3.0 m from neighbors so as not to shade their area.

On the pages of your garden diary, write down the names and brief description fruit and berry crops, and in the diagram indicate their location on the site area by numbers.

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Layout of berry gardens

When laying out the berry garden on the diagram, immediately take into account the nature of the plants. So, black currant grows calmly surrounded by other neighbors, but sea buckthorn and viburnum are quite unfriendly with their neighbors. Therefore, they are planted separately. Sea buckthorn can be used as a green hedge, and viburnum and hawthorn can be used in landscape decoration of a recreation area. In solitary plantings of mowed lawns, they look great.

Some owners believe that it is generally better to place berry gardens along the borders of the plot. In this case, part of the land is freed up for other crops or areas (recreation, sports activities etc.). Such planning is suitable if the site is not fenced with a green hedge or the berry bushes themselves can serve this purpose with their characteristics (prickly, dense, etc.).

The density of berry plantings is very important. It is a natural regulator of the optimal development of plants, their resistance to diseases and crop formation.

Raspberries are planted in dense rows, 0.5 m apart and 1.0-1.5 meters between rows. As the raspberries grow, they occupy the row-spacings; the former row-spacings are cleared of raspberries and become temporary paths. By pruning the shoots, the crop is swapped, returning it to its original place after 2-4 years.
Yoshta, black and golden currants are planted at a distance between bushes of at least 1.5 m, and red currants every meter. Large bushes will shade each other, and the thorns of certain gooseberry varieties will completely limit access to the berries. When used as a green hedge, honeysuckle and shadberry are planted at intervals of 1.0-1.5 meters (or even thicker), and in a berry garden at a distance of up to 2 meters.

Thomas Generazio

The number of certain berry bushes is very important. Think about it and plan in advance on the diagram the quantity of each type and variety so that you can provide your family with fresh berries and make preparations for the winter. For a family of 4-5 people, 20 raspberry bushes, 3-4 bushes of all types of currants and gooseberries, joshta, serviceberry and honeysuckle will be enough. Leave some room for exotic newcomers who will appear on your radar over time. A properly planned berry garden grows normally and bears fruit within 7-12 years, and then gradually rejuvenates or the bushes are moved to another place.

Setting up an orchard

On the next free page of your garden diary, draw a layout diagram. fruit crops. Conditionally allocate 4 square meters for each crop. m of total area for one tree. Do not thicken the plantings. The trees will grow and begin to interfere with, or even oppress, each other. Planting holes should be located in a row at a distance of 4.0-4.5 m. Leave row spacing of at least 2.5-3.0 m. Pay attention to the types of crops. Yes, today the majority farms switch to columnar forms of apple and pear trees - the main garden crops in dacha farming. In terms of habit, these species are much smaller, and the yield is almost equal to tall crops. Columnar forms are easier to care for, they are resistant to disease, and are less damaged by frost.

For an average family, 1-2 trees of each type are enough. The garden should contain early, middle and late varieties in order to have fresh fruits throughout the warm season and also prepare processed ones for the winter. As for garden crops, it is enough to have 2 cherries (early and late). Instead of medium cherry plant 2 cherries. They form a harvest after early cherries. You need 1 quince (later you can graft another species or other varieties on it), 2-3 plums, including one marabelle. 1-2 apricots of frost-resistant varieties are enough. 2-3 apple trees, which over time, through grafting, can be turned into 6-8 varieties of different ripening periods. Don't forget to leave room for exotics. Be sure to plant the nut separately. Almost nothing grows under the canopy of this crop. If you love hazel, set aside the first row for it so that taller trees do not deprive it of the sun with their shadow. 11-12 fruit trees over time will turn into 18-20 varieties of all types.

In order for the garden to serve for a long time and not get sick, it is necessary to use zoned varieties. They are more resistant to diseases, pests, weather changes, and bear fruit longer. You can get acquainted with the varieties and varieties for your region, down to the region, and their characteristics in catalogs and other literature. When buying seedlings, be sure to contact specialists. Remember! A garden planted with low-quality seedlings will add work and care, but will not please you with the harvest and quality of fruits.

General approaches to planting a garden

Plant the garden in the fall, that is, dig planting holes according to your plan, prepare near each one the fertilizer mixture that is necessary due to the condition of the soil.

Preparing the planting hole

In the fall, you can prepare a planting hole of only approximate dimensions, since the final version will be determined by the size of the root system, depending on the age of the purchased seedling. Preliminary size landing pit is approximately 60x60 for 2-year-old seedlings; for 3-year-olds it can be increased to 70x80 cm and finalized when planting the seedling in a hole.

Preparing the soil mixture

Mix near each hole top layer soils with humus and peat. In the spring, before planting a seedling, add a glass of wood ash and slaked lime and 200 g of nitrophosphate to this mixture. Mix well.

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Purchase and preparation of seedlings

It is best to plant seedlings in the spring. During the growing season, the seedlings will grow stronger and the root system will strengthen. During the warm spring-summer-autumn period, the young tree adapts to its new location.

Do not rush to buy seedlings from individual unfamiliar sellers, especially along the roads leading to the dacha. It is better to purchase seedlings from farms that grow them or from nurseries. There is more confidence here that you will acquire the desired zoned variety of the garden or berry crop you need.

Carefully inspect the selected seedling. If you find dried roots, a crooked stem, cracks in the bark or drops of gum, refuse to purchase. Remember! No amount of assurance from the seller will return lost time.

Rules for planting seedlings

1-2 days before planting, soak the seedlings in rootstock or other growth stimulant. Prepare a container of clay mash with the addition of root, planriz or phytosporin. Other biofungicides suitable for tank mixes can be used.

About 2-3 weeks before planting the seedlings, pour part of the soil mixture into a hole in a cone. During this week, the cone will settle, and the planted seedling will be correctly placed in the hole. Dip the prepared seedling into the mash, insert it into the hole, straightening the root along the cone so that there are no upward creases, and fill 2/3 of the hole with soil mixture. Fill the bucket with water. After soaking, fill in the rest of the potting mix or soil. Drive a stake and secure the seedling with a figure eight to the support. A loose seedling, swaying under gusts of wind, will tear off small roots that provide a connection between the plant and the soil.

Important landing nuances

When landing, be sure to check correct depth location of the root collar. If it is buried, the tree may dry out for no reason after 5-10 years (especially on heavy soils). On light sandy loam soils (especially in the south), it is better to bury the root collar somewhat deeper into the soil (8-10 cm), “hiding” it from the upper drying layer. In seedlings that form adventitious roots or shoots (figs, currants, plums, apple trees), deepening does not interfere with the normal development of the tree. Seedlings of these crops are quickly rebuilt root system, more often on insufficiently moistened soils.

For self-rooted seedlings, the root collar should be located at the level of the planting hole or 2-3 cm higher (no more). In grafted seedlings, the grafting site is located 4-8 cm above the root collar. Beginning gardeners often confuse the root collar and grafting and plant deep down to the grafting site. In this case, the root collar is deeply buried in the soil and the tree dies early.

If you have correctly identified the root collar and planted the seedling so that it rises 4-5 cm above the soil, then the tree is planted correctly. Compact the soil around the planting. At a distance from the trunk with a radius of 30-50 cm, make a roller 5-7 cm high and fill in another 2-3 buckets of water. Along with the absorbed water, the seedling will also be drawn into the soil. Make sure that the root collar remains 2-3 cm above the soil. If necessary, add soil after watering and mulch with a small layer of fine mulch (peat or humus, sawdust). If you bought live seedlings and planted them correctly, in 2-3 weeks your garden will turn green with the first young leaves.

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How to determine the root collar

U young seedling Use a wet cloth to wipe the bottom of the trunk and the beginning of the root well. The root collar is defined as a transition from greenish color (trunk) to light brown (root zone).
For older seedlings (3-4 years old), wipe the lower part of the trunk with a wet rag and, after the wet area has dried, carefully scrape off the bark with a knife at the site of the subtle expansion of the trunk into the root. If at the site of expansion the scraped-off color of the young subcortical layer is green, then it is the stem, and if it is yellowish, then it is the root zone. The place where one color changes to another is the root collar.
In some seedlings, the place where the upper lateral roots originate from the trunk is clearly visible. This is the root collar. The origin of the roots should remain above the level of the planting hole.

What not to do when planting seedlings

When planting, you cannot use half-rotted manure, only humus mixed with soil.
You should not frequently water seedlings with small amounts of water. They only dry out the soil in the planting hole.
You can't water the seedlings cold water(from artesian).
It is impossible to fertilize plants in the first year after planting, especially with nitrogen fertilizers.
After planting, you cannot mulch the tree trunk circle with a large layer of mulch. In the event of prolonged rains, water accumulated in the mulch will cause damping off of the young bark and the death of the plant. A thick layer of mulch is applied in the fall, which will protect the soil from freezing and the death of seedlings from low temperatures.

What needs to be done when planting seedlings

Whiten young seedlings with a solution of chalk and clay with the addition of biological products against diseases and pests or a solution of copper sulfate.
Insulate the trunk with several layers of burlap, lutrasil, spandbond, paper and other materials.
Protect the trunk from hares and other rodents with a netting or spruce branches, burying the latter 5-10 cm into the soil.
After each sufficiently heavy snowfall, trample the snow around the trunk, which will protect the latter from being eaten by mice.

Most of our readers have a dacha or a plot of land that we definitely want to keep in order and beauty. Therefore, many begin to plant gardens or vegetable gardens within the boundaries of their summer cottage, as far as the hundred square meters allow. But in order to do everything beautifully and efficiently, you need to know the rules and features. Some have a developed imagination and love very much creative ideas, which means it won’t be difficult for them. What about everyone else? We want to help you with this. In this article you will find tips on how to carry out planning on your own, what rules exist, how to find suitable plants and how to plant them correctly, how many beds are needed and how to place them taking into account your acres. And also which ones can be used decorative elements and is it worth doing this at all? We will post several photos in the article that you can use to create your own ideas.

First, it’s worth understanding what planning is and where to start. Layout is the optimal breakdown for the site, which will ensure the most rational use usable area For productive beds. But where to start? Many owners want to plant fruit trees and plant a vegetable garden on their plot, but the question arises: is it possible to combine all this? You can always combine everything, you just need to know how to do it correctly. Therefore, we would suggest that you start by creating your own unique idea arrangement of beds that seems ideal to you.

In order to create something of your own, look at several ideas on the Internet, photos on websites or in landscape design magazines. You can also find several video tutorials on design basics. Please note that you can create everything yourself, but if you think it is difficult and laborious, you can use the ideas of designers or their direct services.

Step-by-step instructions for planning

We want to help you properly organize the planning work on your summer cottage so that there are no unaccounted for issues. If you decide to make a complex of vegetable and fruit plantings, then you should start with planning.

Create a sketch of your initial idea that will reflect general features that you want to see on the site. You can make a color scheme in two versions to immediately see what your site will look like in the spring and autumn.
Calculate the size of the plot in advance, find out how many acres it contains (most often there are plots of 4 and 6). You should know not only general dimensions, but also some features, including the size to which plants can grow; planting should not be very dense.
Think about where you can place your vegetable garden. We want to say that many gardeners advise placing everything on the south side. If you do not have this option, then try to make sure that your place is sunny, but with periods of shade.

Plan where best to make your beds

Write a list of plants that you would like to see in your yard. These can be vegetable beds, fruit trees, or ornamental plants and flowers. Later we will talk about the most common schemes that currently exist.
Consult with experts or read for yourself to find out whether the plants you choose are compatible with each other. To do this, you need to study the soil and fertilizer needs for each type of plant. And also the frequency of their watering, the need for solar energy and more.
Find out what the acidity of the soil is, whether there is groundwater, what the relief is, and the orientation of the area relative to the sun.
Consider how many beds you can create. Think in advance which processes you will carry out yourself, and which ones you will need help with.
Plant plants in a specific order. Seedlings cannot be in the shade, as well as bushes and low plants should be closer to the sun.
It is necessary to find out the fruiting dates of all trees and shrubs. And place all plants according to their ripening dates.
Take a photo of your work.

What should be indicated on the diagram, what plants should be used?

What should be indicated on the diagram

The planting scheme should be developed as correctly as possible and can easily be done with your own hands, without the help of experts. In order for you to take everything into account and not forget anything, we decided to develop special recommendations for you.

To start planting, you should always have a photo of the site. Since you cannot always be in close proximity to it, and your circuit will often require it.
Draw on the diagram the location of the house; if the site has not yet been developed, then the estimated size and location.
Indicate not only the size of the plot, but also its distance from the boundaries of the plot. If you decide to combine several types of plantings into one composition, then it is worth indicating what size each of them will be and at what distance they will be located.
Pay attention to painting everything with flowers. This is only important for decorative look. Thanks to this, you will be able to see from a new perspective.

What plants can be used for the garden?

For your garden, you can use any plants you need:

cabbage,
carrot,
potato,
cucumbers,
tomatoes,
green,
beet,
eggplants,
pumpkin.

What site planning models are there?

In order to outline only the main points of planting, we decided to show you three main options for planning a vegetable garden and including a garden. It is worth noting that the choice should be influenced not only by the “liked” factor, but also by the topography of the site, the number of acres, and the expected number of beds.

Decorative model. This model is designed exclusively for lovers of unpretentious site management and assumes the presence ornamental plants and plantings. Most often, this model is embodied in the shape of a circle. Inside there are plantings of flowers and only ornamental plants (preferably tall ones to show off all the beauty). Outside, a kind of “frame” is created from fruit plants (currants, raspberries, strawberries). Very often bought low bushes that won't hide too much decorative flowers. If the site allows, then fruit trees are planted in a semicircle behind (their number depends on the size of the model). For example, you can look at photos of planting on the Internet.
Rectangular model. Its peculiarity is that here you do both a garden and a vegetable garden at the same time. Most often used for summer cottages square shape. The peculiarity is that you plant several beds of vegetables (as many hundred square meters of land as possible). Nearby there are several beds of berry bushes (currants, raspberries), selected according to your taste. For best view Fruit trees are also planted, but a little further away. The peculiarity is that with all the abundance of species, the square or rectangular shape is preserved.
Free model. Here the shape and size depend solely on the area and your capabilities. The scheme is the same: combine several vegetable and berry beds with fruit and decorative trees. As you can see in the photo, only your imagination plays a role here.

The layout is very important thing, so we would like to give some tips for those who will do everything themselves. To begin with, it is worth noting that it is necessary to take into account all the natural and geographical factors of the site: size, lighting, temperature changes. If you still have a small area for a vegetable garden, then use the vertical beds method more; cucumbers, beans, peas, tall tomatoes, etc. feel great on nets and supports. Always pay attention to compatibility garden plants, their need for lighting. Also, you should not use old trees for the site; seedlings are quite suitable for you. If some process becomes unclear to you, we recommend looking at photos on the Internet, where you can also find instructions about optimal quantity beds and correct calculation of acres. Planning on your own is a lot of work, but once you get into the process, you'll love it!

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You can often hear from inexperienced gardeners that their trees do not produce as much fruit as expected. And they begin to buy state-of-the-art seedlings, cutting down all previously planted trees. But in most cases, people themselves are to blame for the fact that trees grow and bear fruit poorly. Most likely, the planting of trees was carried out according to the principle “the more, the better”; there was no talk at all about the planning of the garden. And the result of such work was plants that were always sick and did not bear fruit.

The main thing is for every owner of his own plot to understand that creating a garden, just like creating a house, must begin with careful planning.

Where does the garden begin?

The garden starts with careful analyze soil quality and climate, in which your trees and shrubs will grow and bear fruit. If the soil on your site is too clayey or sandy, then it is worth fertilizing it with chernozem, peat and other useful components so that the roots receive enough nutrition.

Climatic features that interfere with fruiting:

too cold winters;
late spring frosts;
excessive humidity.

Therefore, trees should be selected based on the climate in which they will grow. Otherwise, you will never see fruits.

Tree selection

The choice of fruit trees and shrubs for the garden plot should be strictly local selection. After all, only those apple, pear and cherry plum trees that are accustomed to the local climate will be able to bear fruit successfully. They perfectly adapt to changes in temperature and humidity, delighting their owners with fruits, if not every year, then every other year.

Southern fruit bearers - apricots and peaches-are very afraid of autumn dampness. This is explained by the fact that in a humid climate, flowering does not end with pollination, and they become just barren flowers without fruit. And pollen, along with moisture, simply falls to the ground. No less dangerous for these shrubs are spring frosts that occur when apricots bloom.

Cherries do not tolerate proximity to groundwater, and if reclamation is not carried out in time, the plant will wither in the very near future. Excessive dampness in the spring is also not beneficial: the fruits begin to turn black and crack even before they ripen. Therefore, shrubs should be planted in pre-drained soils.

It is worth choosing plants strictly taking into account their productivity. Think about whether it is worth allocating several meters of land for trees that will bear fruit once every five or six years, or is it easier to go to the store and buy a few kilograms of apricots or peaches, and on this land plant trees that will delight you with the harvest.

Gallery: garden layout (25 photos)

Site marking

In order to know which trees to plant on the site, you need to draw on paper a diagram that will show all the existing buildings and those that you still plan to build: a house, a bathhouse, outbuildings. In addition, you should draw those trees that you do not intend to uproot.

This is necessary because every building or tree casts a shadow on everything that grows on your site. Consequently, bushes, trees and other plants will begin to stretch in the direction where there is more light. They spend a lot of energy on this, which could be spent on laying fruits. This will last until its top gets closer to the light and overcomes the obstacle. Therefore, if your house or bathhouse is completely shaded by planted trees and shrubs, then they cannot always outgrow them and they will never bear fruit.

In order to correctly distribute the trees on the site, you should also describe the height of each building and the cardinal directions. Shade the areas where the shadow will be located almost around the clock. These zones not suitable for planting trees and shrubs. Here you can safely plant flowers, make a pond or pool. In order for trees to bear fruit, shade areas should be excluded from the places where they are planted.

Planting

Now you need to figure out how to plant trees on the site correctly. First, the gardener must decide how many trees and shrubs will grow in the garden. If you do not want to periodically prune your plants, then on one hundred square meters of vegetable garden or orchard you can plant no more than 7 pears or apple trees. Because as they grow up, they will begin to interfere with each other, casting a shadow. And so private house the garden and vegetable garden on the site will only be decorated.

If you still plan to trim plants, you can plant up to 15 fruit trees on one acre. If you consider yourself to be a smart summer resident, then invest in columnar trees and plant them at a distance of a meter from each other. Examples of trees of this type can be found on the Internet or in a seedling store.

It is worth remembering that pruning leads to a reduction in fruit only in apricots and cherries, because the fruits grow throughout the entire branch, and therefore it is not customary to trim them. All other trees require constant pruning. This will help add light to the fruiting branches, and the fruits will become larger. The best option would be to form a crown in the form of a ball or a wall if you planted plants near a fence.

Apple and pear trees should be planted at a distance of at least three meters from each other. But planting shrubs can be done at a distance of at least one and a half meters from each other. The layout of the garden and vegetable garden should be carried out from south to north, so the plants will not cast shadows and interfere with each other.

You should not make the garden rectangular - it will not be very convenient when caring for plants. If the gardener has laid out a rectangular-shaped orchard, then he will have to move around with equipment and fertilizers very carefully so as not to damage the tree trunks with a wheelbarrow.

Vegetable garden plan

Modern garden layout is no longer strictly rectangular. And this happened because right angles are completely inconvenient to go around with a wheelbarrow while fertilizing or watering the beds. That’s why modern garden beds are made in such a way as to make this more convenient. Interesting ideas layouts garden plot You can spy on other summer residents and gardeners.

But nevertheless, there are a number of basic principles that help achieve maximum yield with minimum quantity beds:

If a gardener chooses not to think about the layout of a garden or vegetable garden, then he will have to seriously suffer with the cultivation of garden and vegetable crops. So, having worked hard once, planning the location of trees or vegetables on the site, you will be able to save yourself from unnecessary work in the future.

Plan and break down summer cottage plot- this is a big creative process that will require you not only to have certain knowledge, but also to use your own imagination. At the same time, knowledgeable people recommend following the advice of specialists who will help you complete all the work, as a result, every square meter of the territory will be useful and delight you with beauty and comfort every day. We will consider in detail how to plan a summer cottage plot with your own hands, step by step.

Preparatory work

Before you start drawing up a future site plan, you need to decide on the terrain itself, the nature of the relief, the shape of the land, the presence of any buildings, as well as other features of the area. For example, in rural areas there are a large number of streams and reservoirs, if one is present on your site, then you can use it correctly.

Pay attention to several features of the location of the dacha:

lowland - hill;
presence or absence of a water source;
wooded area - steppe.

Quite often it is necessary to add or remove soil, make blind areas for walls, and also make organized drains. Only with proper placement of buildings on the site can you make maximum use of the dacha plot and highlight all the zones.

So that everything preparatory work were done correctly, it is best to assess the space and start from the ground.

Relief: hilly, flat, with ravines or mountains. The layout of utility lines will depend on this indicator.
Soil: clayey, humus, sandy. If you plan to equip a vegetable garden, you should increase the soil fertility by applying fertilizers. The set of plants for the garden and flower beds will depend on the acidity level.
Shape and size of the territory: square, rectangular and elongated.
Groundwater: when sufficient high level you should think about water drainage.
Climatic conditions.
Illumination.

It is better to orient all large buildings and trees towards the north. This approach will reduce the influence of shadows, and the view from the house will be maximally illuminated throughout the day.

Zones on the territory of the dacha

The layout of a summer cottage depends precisely on the zones that will be included here. Each individual case will have its own list, but you can consider the largest example and list of zones:

residential;
rest;
outbuildings;
garden.

Each of them should have its own area depending on the total area. Yes, when correct implementation zoning, the residential part should be up to 20%. If it is planned to build outbuildings, then this percentage should not exceed 15%. At the same time, the largest plot is allocated to the vegetable garden and garden - 75%. This approach will allow you to diversify your landscape design and fill it with a wide variety of flower varieties and plant species.

The house is placed first. Most often, a central zone is allocated for it, but buildings are most often located somewhere in the depths. In an interesting and original way, they can be disguised with the help of decorative plantings that are not afraid of shadows.
The place to relax should be the most comfortable and best. In this case, the nature of the zone can be arranged or scattered. Here you should not forget about the place for a children's playground.
The garden should be well lit, so it should be given the sunny side. The shadow of buildings should not obscure the territory.

Shapes of plots

Options for planning a summer cottage can be very diverse, but almost everything will depend on the shape of the land plot. The most common type of plot is a rectangular shape, on which it is possible to implement a wide variety of solutions and ideas. There is also an L-shaped type of plot. It is quite complex, so you will need to think and think about where and how to place everything. The part that protrudes can be used as a place to relax or as a playground.

On a triangular-shaped site, you can consider an asymmetrical approach when planning and dividing the territory. The emphasis should be on round elements:

lawns;
bodies of water;

It is best to place outbuildings in remote corners.

Planning is a creative endeavor. Experts advise considering a wide variety of options, but not copying them completely, but making some changes.

After having been determined important points and studied various options layouts, you need to sketch everything on a piece of paper. You can turn to specialists and designers for help. landscape design who use special programs for project development. But it will be enough to save money regular sheet A4 paper and pen (pencil).

To sketch the plan, consider an example - a 10-acre dacha plot. It is best if you take a scale of 1:100 and a sheet of whatman paper of the appropriate size - a square of 50x50 cm. For convenience, it is better to arm yourself with a pencil and a ruler to line the entire sheet into a grid in 1 cm increments. Next - a flight of fancy: arm yourself with colored pencils, cut outs from magazines and felt-tip pens, with the help of which you can create a real collage.

When working with the diagram, you must take into account:

location of the house taking into account all exits;
places allocated for outbuildings and auxiliary buildings;
recreation area;
playground;
paths;
fence;
flower beds, rock gardens and front gardens;
bodies of water;
engineering communications.

When preliminary placing objects, you should select the optimal location that will suit the purpose.

So, as already mentioned, the main elements in the following categories should first be placed on the site:

the basis is the house;
additional buildings and outbuildings: summer kitchen, garage, well, barn, cellar and others;
recreational buildings: terrace, patio, gazebo, playground, swimming pool and outdoor shower;
garden and vegetable garden: flower beds, front gardens, beds for vegetables and root crops, greenhouses.

It is important to pay attention not only to their placement and shape, but also to decide on the materials that will be used during construction. Only in this case the site will achieve a harmonious garden style. A children's playground is no less important: when choosing a place, you should opt for the most visible area, so that the kids are always under the visual control of their parents.

We also take into account the legal requirements regarding distance standards:

from the house to the red line of the street - 5 m;
from the house to the neighbor’s fence – 3 m;
between houses made of stone - 6 m, wood - 15 m, mixed - 10 m;
from the fence for garden house– 3 m, buildings for animals – 4 m, outbuildings – 1 m, trees – 4 m;
from the windows of the house to the neighbor’s utility parts – 6 m.

At the end of the article are the most different examples finished projects layouts summer cottages. Check them out and draw your own conclusions.

Plot of 12 acres

A garden area of 12 acres will allow you to place a larger number of objects and highlight extra bed for recreation areas in comparison with the previous version. In this case, the layout will be distributed as follows:

House with a spacious veranda – 150 m2.
Household part 50 m2.
Recreation area and playground – 200 m2.
Vegetable garden and greenhouse – 200 m2.
Garden plot– 550 m2.
Paths and paths – 50 m2.

The principle of placing buildings will be similar to the option of a plot of 6 acres, but in this case there appears additional opportunity for the implementation of various landscaping ideas. Thus, a large number of not only fruit trees and shrubs are connected, but also decorative ones. They can be planted around each object, as well as along paths.

In addition, additional square meters allocated for the recreation area will allow you to build a gazebo, swimming pool, and barbecue. It is very important to think about decorative lighting here, which will make spending time in the evening possible.

Plot of 15 acres

First of all, we note that 15 acres is as much as 1500 m2 free territory, on which you can implement a wide variety of landscape combinations. Most often, the plot has the shape of a rectangle 30x50 m or 25x60 m. There is enough space to include in the project everything necessary for comfortable and functional living not only in summer, but also in winter.

Residential building with attic and veranda – 200 m2.
Summer kitchen– 30 m2.
Guest house – 50 m2.
Bathhouse – 50 m2.
Outbuildings – 70 m2.
Garage with access for a car - 30 m2.
The recreation area includes a gazebo, a children's playground, a barbecue and picnic area, as well as benches throughout the area - 300 m2.
Decorative structures (fountain, artificial or natural pond, garden bridge, stone sculptures) – 100 m2.
Vegetable garden – 200 m2.
Flower beds and mixborders – 70 m2.
Garden – 400 m2.

There are no special recommendations for such a site, so pay attention to the first and second options. Everyone will be able to realize any idea here, and even more than one - it’s enough to rationally weigh and develop everything so that everything fits and harmonizes very well with each other.

A country house should be surrounded by greenery, so a lot of time and effort is devoted to this stage. A large number of flower beds are planned and laid out, and a large front garden is set up in front of the house.

When independently developing a plan for your summer cottage, you need to take into account many nuances and points that will help you complete all the work correctly and efficiently. Please take note of the recommendations and advice given in the article, and also review the sketches of the site plans. As a result, you will be able to create the summer cottage of your dreams, where it will be comfortable to spend all seasons, regardless of weather conditions.

Video

Lots of useful tips are given in the following video:

Schemes

Nowadays, more and more people are resorting to growing vegetable crops in and on country plots.

After all, only if we have received harvests from our beds can we have no doubt about the quality of the grown greens, root crops and vegetable crops.

And the cost of purchased vegetables is quite high, especially in winter.

Layout orchard begins with preparatory work.

In order for all vegetation to grow comfortably, it is necessary to take into account that the most favorable places are suitable for it according to its preferences for soil and lighting. Then you need to analyze the entire site in detail, this will help to rationally place objects of landscape style, this includes both completed construction and planting, and future ones.

When drawing a picture of your future site in your mind, you need to create a rough draft and not miss a single detail. It is recommended to immediately measure the dimensions of the area that is planned for fruit vegetation, estimating 4 square meters per tree. sites, and this is minimal.

It is better to choose flat or slightly flat terrain for the garden. You should choose a place for the garden that is located in the south, and if this is not possible, you need to choose something else, mainly sunny and not particularly shaded. It is necessary to carry out an analysis of the soil; fertile soils with normal acidity (chernozem or sandy loam) are comfortable for trees.

You should also take into account the depth of groundwater, because this can negatively affect the root system of vegetation. You can outline a list of the names of crops that you would like to grow in your yard, study in detail the conditions of their growth to find out whether they will get along. Plan the number of ridges, consider whether you will need someone’s help or whether it is feasible to handle the plantings yourself.

Distribution of garden plantings into separate zones

On a blank piece of paper in your gardener’s diary you need to sketch out the garden’s proposal. It can be front, side or rear relative to the house, only trees and shrubs should grow from the north to the south for better lighting and have three parts.

The location of the zones should go one after another or be divided into three divided territories, which will be located at different ends of the common area of the site:

First. Compatibility fruit trees and shrubs in this zoning variation. In the first zone we are planting a vegetable garden; its vegetation will not shade the representatives of the second part, and in the mornings it will be endowed with its share of the sun.
In the next zone, it is better to place berry gardens; their height does not exceed 1.5 meters. The shadow coming from the bushes in the morning will not interfere with the vegetation of the third part.
In the third order part we plant fruit. It should be located at a distance of about 3 m from the previous one, so that there is no threat of shading.

In the diary you can record the names and main character of fruit and berry vegetation, and on a schematic plan indicate with numbers their location in the garden.

Layout of berry gardens

When laying out a berry garden on a site, you should schematically take into account the characteristics of the vegetation. Black currant grows normally surrounded by other vegetation, but sea buckthorn and viburnum do not get along with their neighbors, therefore, they are planted separately. Sea buckthorn bushes can perfectly replace a green fence, and viburnum and hawthorn will decorate the landscape in a leisure corner.

Some gardeners prefer to place berry gardens around the perimeter of the plot. In this form, part of the territory is freed up for other crops or for leisure areas, sports activities, etc. This layout is suitable if the land is not fenced with a green fence or the bushes with berries themselves will fence the area with their presence.

The density of berry plantings is especially important. After all, it acts as a regulator of natural origin for the optimal development of vegetation, its resistance to disease and crop formation:

Raspberries are planted in dense rows, with intervals of half a meter from each other and with intervals of a meter and a half in the rows. As the crimson vegetation grows, it fills the row-spacings; the former row-spacings are cleared of overgrowth and serve as non-permanent paths. They change the location of the crops by pruning the shoots, returning them three years later to their original growing area.
Yoshta and black currants are planted at intervals of at least one and a half meters, and red currants at meter intervals. Large bush vegetation will shade each other; the thorns of some varietal gooseberry species will completely block access to the fruits.

In the case of using honeysuckle and serviceberry as a green fence, the bushes are planted at intervals of a meter and a half, sometimes even denser, and in a berry garden at intervals of up to 2 meters.

The number of particular berry vegetation is especially important. It is good to think ahead and schematically plan the number of each species and varietal type so that it is possible to delight the family with fresh harvests of berries in the summer and, so that winter storage close the jars of aromatic jam.

A properly planned berry plot grows normally and bears fruit for about 11 years, and in the future it should be gradually rejuvenated or the plants should be transferred to another area. Pruning fruit trees and forming the crown is also an important event. To do this, you need to know the characteristics of varietal species of fruit trees.

Setting up an orchard

On the next page of the diary we draw a diagram with the placement of fruit crop vegetation, allocating approximately 4 square meters for each specimen. from common area. There is no need to thicken the plantings. The plants will grow and become a nuisance to each other.

Let the planting holes be located in a row at intervals of four meters. We pay attention to the types of cultivated vegetation. Currently, a large number of farms are switching to the formats of apple and pear trees in the form of columns - the fundamental garden cultural vegetation in the homestead.

These species are smaller in size, and produce yields equal to tall cultivated vegetation. These types are easier to care for, they are resistant to illnesses, and are most resistant to frost. Early, middle and late varietal species must grow in order to be able to enjoy fresh delicacies throughout the season and so that the grown fruits can be processed and stored for the winter.

Of garden cultivated vegetation, two cherries (early and late) are sufficient. Instead of its average varietal type, it is better to plant two cherries.

They produce harvests following the early cherries. Let there be one quince (later it will be possible to graft another species or other varietal types on it), two or three plums, including marabelle. A couple of apricots, which are frost-resistant varietal species, are enough. Three apple trees; in the future, through grafting, they can be turned into 6 or 8 varietal species of different ripening periods. It is necessary to preserve space for new representatives of vegetation.

So that the garden pleases with an abundance of harvests long period and was not ill, it is necessary to use zoned varietal species. They are more resistant to illnesses, harmful insects, changes in weather conditions, and the fruiting period is longer.

You can get acquainted with the varietal species and subspecies for the region and their characters in specialized literature. When purchasing seedlings, you should contact specialists. A garden that is filled with low-quality vegetation will add more work and hassle, and will not please you with the quality and quantity of fruits.

How to build beautiful beds and place them correctly in your garden

Formats

They can be of all kinds; their size can only be limited by the dimensions of the site. The ridges can be built straight or of various geometries, or figured. You can provide a fence, or you can do without it; they can be low or high in height.

High ridges are now more in demand. Of these, the most successful are those that reach a height of 40 cm. Bases:

Such ridges are warm. A layer of materials that compost more slowly (leaves, weeds, paper waste) is placed on the bottom layer of materials that compost quickly (branches, rags, paper, cardboard). Then you should spill it with water and cover it with soil. During the process of decay, the ridge will begin to release heat, and the crops will ripen more actively.
The sun's rays will warm the soil more actively. But irrigation also needs to be done more often.
If you want to protect your future harvest from moles and mice, you should place a plaster mesh under the bottom layer.
Such ridges do not require digging. After all, they are not dug, but made.
It is possible to harvest crops twice per season. You can also have time to grow, for example, lettuce before planting the main crop.

Dimension

As usual, the ridges are from half a meter to a meter wide. These dimensions are suitable for processing, as they make maintenance easier. And the length can not be limited. According to Mitlider’s method, it is proposed to build completely narrow ridges of 45 cm, and the passages, on the contrary, are wider at 90 cm, while the length of the ridges should not exceed 9 meters. Gardeners using this technique, speak positively about her.

The vegetation is well ventilated. As it grows, accessibility to it remains especially comfortable, and most importantly, it receives the energy of the sun in greater quantities, and even in the cloudy summer season the fruits ripen perfectly. Yields in this variation increase.

A variety of crops can be planted in the beds created by this species: tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, etc.

Location

As usual, the ridges are arranged from the south side in a northerly direction. This allows all vegetation to warm up evenly. And in the morning and evening, when sun rays The ridges are illuminated from the sides; they do not particularly shade each other. It happens that the site is endowed with a slope. How to correctly place the ridges in this option?

It is better to place them across the slope, then the moisture will be evenly distributed. It happens that the site is completely uneven, in which case it is recommended to place the ridges on the slope on the south side, and garden vegetation on the north side.

Layout

For its literacy you need to consider:

The yield of one or another varietal type of vegetable per square meter. After all, then it will be possible to calculate the required landing site for each species.
Vegetation compatibility. Without it, it will not be possible to carry out the plan efficiently.
If the site is too sloping, it is necessary to build terraces and place ridge boxes on them.
Plan planting of crops so that taller vegetation is on the northern side of the site. So more low species will not grow in shade.

Common mistakes made by a novice gardener:

Through too thick plantings: it is necessary to ensure that the seedlings are thinned in due time, because if the vegetation is crowded, this will not have a beneficial effect on its growth, yields and resistance to harmful insects and diseases. The spaces between the rows and the vegetation in the row (planting patterns) are provided separately for each crop.
Failure to eliminate weeds in a timely manner will lead to a decline in the yield and its quality. Because the weed, which is already persistent and actively growing, deprives a significant portion of the nutritional components of the crop.
Vegetable beds in shade: negatively affects the quality of vegetation; some crops accumulate nitrate-containing components when growing in shade. Let the light on the beds in the garden be present for at least 6 hours every day. Vegetation in particular uses afternoon light. This means it’s lucky if they don’t find themselves in the shade at this time.
Overdose of fertilizing: overfed vegetable plants are much more susceptible to illness. Excessive feeding with nitrogenous additives leads to fattening of the crop, as a result, fruiting suffers and nitrates accumulate in vegetables. Strict adherence to the timing and norms for adding fertilizers, taking into account the preferences of the crop, is imperative.
Sowing seeds too early: sowing seeds in unheated soil destroys germination. Each vegetation has its own periods, this also applies to planting. If the spring period turns out to be cool and humid, it is better to postpone sowing for a week and expect friendly shoots a little later.
Illiterate selection of vegetable representatives: heat-loving, capricious vegetables (