Having bought a door frame in a store, you should not immediately despair when you see a large number of prefabricated elements. To assemble such a structure, you do not need to be a specialist with higher education. To assemble a door frame with your own hands, we will consider the entire installation process in detail.
Typically, interior doors are sold disassembled, and what we see at first glance is an incomprehensible and chaotic set of elements, which includes the profile wooden beam, in the worst case, from MDF, locks and awnings, as well as canvas. All this vaguely resembles a children's construction set from the “do it yourself” series, and most people, seeing all this, panic and begin to look for a specialist experienced in this field, whose services are very expensive. Other enthusiasts are still trying to solve this puzzle, but their efforts are limited big sign question, after all detailed instructions It is very difficult to understand the assembly process. In this article we will try to help you figure out how to do without outside help assemble the door frame.
Determining box dimensions
The first and very important stage The entire assembly process involves an accurate calculation, down to the millimeter, of the length of the beam posts, the threshold (if any) and the upper lintel.
Measuring the racks
The height of the racks should be equal to the height of the door. Typically, the standard door height is 2000 mm. Having made sure of this, we add the width of the gap between the door leaf and the door by 2-3 mm to the height of the door leaf. In case of installing doors with a threshold, the width of two gaps of 3 mm each must be added to the height of the door leaf, for a total of 6 mm. In the version without a threshold, we add only one gap measuring 3 mm, and add 1 cm at the bottom so that the door leaf does not cling to the floor when opening and closing the doors.
As a result of accurate measurements we get following parameters: with the option with a threshold, the height of the doors and pillars will be equal to 2000 mm + 2 gaps of 3 mm each = 2006 mm; with the option without a threshold, the height of the doors and pillars will be equal to 2000 mm + 3 mm + 10 mm of clearance = 2019 mm.
Measuring the threshold and upper jumper
Threshold and top header size door frame should be the same. Let us correctly determine their length, which will be equal to the sum of the width of the door leaf, the width of the gaps between the door and the door and the thickness of the profile beam from which the door will be assembled.
In addition, on both sides of the lintel and threshold sections, it is necessary to cut out landing sections, that is, cut off the protruding parts of the opening into which the door rests when closing. The cut should be equal to the thickness of the post at its widest point.
To correctly cut the samples, measure the thickness of the stand on both sides from the edge of the lintel and carefully cut it with a small hacksaw.
After this, you can screw up the door frame with a calm heart.
Do-it-yourself door frame assembly
We screw together the door frame using self-tapping screws or confirmations for wood over 55 mm long. In order to prevent the profile beam or MDF from cracking, you must first make holes with a slightly smaller diameter than the screw-in screw, approximately 2-3 mm.
To ensure that the structure holds tightly and does not fall apart during installation, all joints must be secured with self-tapping screws at least twice.
Marking and inserting canopies
The final stage of door installation is connecting the leaf to the door frame. With the help of a simple operation this will not be difficult. Having placed the door frame on the floor, you need to put it in door leaf with canopies embedded in it.
Place the leaf in the door frame so that the gap is the same on all sides and equal to 3 mm. To do this, you can use a school ruler, the thickness of which is just 3 mm.
After the door in the frame is aligned, you need to copy the location of the canopies from the doors to the door using a marker.
Pull the doors off the frame, place it on its side and use a chisel or router to cut out seats for awnings.
Connect the doors with the frame into a single structure and screw the hinges to the door.
The door frame assembly is complete. Now the entire structure is ready for installation, and you can confidently say that you have completed the DIY door frame puzzle!
A correctly installed door frame ensures 90% of success in the business as a whole.
Before installing the door frame, you need to carefully study the basics of this delicate work.
Tools and materials
Tools needed for work: tape measure, pencil, hammer, square, construction knife, hammer drill, drill, screwdriver.
Depending on its design, you can use the following tools and materials:
- wood hacksaw;
- fine-tooth hacksaw;
- miter box;
- chisel;
- screwdriver;
- perforator;
- drill;
- drills;
- construction knife;
- roulette;
- square;
- bubble level;
- pencil;
- hammer;
- nail puller;
- direct hangers;
- self-tapping screws;
- dowels;
- anchors;
- nails;
- polyurethane foam;
- glue for MDF;
- wedges;
- wooden blocks;
- door frame;
- wood putty;
- additional elements;
- roofing felt;
- construction mixture.
Preparatory work
If the door frame is installed in place of the old one, the latter must first be dismantled. The easiest way to do this is to simply saw the side and top strips in half and pull out the resulting pieces with a nail puller. Sometimes you also have to cut off the fixing nails and anchors around the perimeter. If there are embedded parts in the opening, it is better to leave them. It will be easier to install a new box on the mortgages later.
box interior door in most cases it can be purchased as a universal kit. Assemble and customize it right size you have to do it yourself. The frame kit necessarily includes side and top strips, a threshold or bottom strip for interior doors - a rarity, but may be present. The vestibule can be integral with the slats or be overlaid. The box itself can be made of wood or MDF. The planks included in the kit are designed for use as part of a block with a door leaf 2 m high and 60-90 cm wide.
You can accurately mark the slats before cutting as follows. The detachable vestibule is installed in the side planks, which are laid out with the front surface upward approximately along the width of the opening. The canvas is placed on the ledges between the slats. The top bar is put in place. With a solid vestibule, it can be attached top side to the canvas, this will not affect the measurements. A uniform gap of 2-3 mm is set around the perimeter of the canvas; for this you can use scraps of cardboard, corners for tiles, or just by eye. We mark the location of the canopies on the side plank and the canvas.
The hinges are cut in before the box is installed in the opening, or better yet, before it begins to be assembled. This makes work more convenient. The plank is laid out on a horizontal surface, the contour of the loop is outlined, and excess material is removed using a chisel. It is generally accepted to place the canopies at a distance of 20 cm from the upper and lower surfaces of the door leaf. For lightweight canvases, reinforcements are made in these places.
The cutting places for the planks are carefully marked with a pencil. For a door with a threshold, the gap to it from the bottom of the leaf is assumed to be 2.5 mm. For a door without a threshold, the clearance under the door is made from 1 to 1.5 cm. On the upper and lower slats with a solid rebate, marks are made opposite the edges of the rebates on the side slats. This will allow you to cut off the excess protruding flap at the top and bottom to fit the corners of the box.
We cut all the planks to the required size with a hacksaw. A miter box will help you cut the elements evenly. On the upper and lower planks, using a hacksaw and a chisel, we remove the excess rebate along the notches. We again lay out the box on the floor and put the canvas into it, setting the necessary gaps. We fix all corners with two wood screws 75 mm long with a countersunk head. For self-tapping screws, it is necessary to pre-drill holes of a suitable diameter. If you screw in the screws without drilling, you can split the ends of the planks.
When the width of the opening allows, a box of MDF is better strengthen on the sides with additional bars. This will make the structure more rigid. Before trying to insert the door frame into the opening, we screw 3 straight hangers along its outer side surfaces: 2 at the edges and 1 in the middle. A strip of roofing felt is nailed to the lower end of the structure with the threshold.
Door frame installation
We install the box in the opening. It should fit freely and not rest anywhere. Everything that gets in the way needs to be knocked down. For the option with a threshold, you may need a groove in the floor. During installation, it is filled with mortar or polymer mortar.
To begin with, the side of the box on which the awnings will be placed is leveled in 2 planes and aligned with the wall. This side can be immediately fixed to the opening with direct hangers. The top bar is approximately set to the horizon. It is checked that it does not touch anything; it is even better to have a small gap for subsequent adjustment.
Accurately set the top bar and the counter bar side stand The level is quite difficult.
Fine adjustments are made with the blade hung. Otherwise, there is a high probability that the door will not fit evenly across the entire plane to the vestibule.
The canvas is placed on the awnings, the top and side counter sides are exposed with the required gap along the perimeter and along the vestibule. This is done using wedges. 3 reciprocal direct hangers are screwed on.
For models made of MDF with a removable rebate, the box is rigidly fixed to the opening using anchors or long screws through the groove for the rebate. IN wooden slats You can hide the location of the fasteners using wood putty that matches the color. Options made of MDF with a continuous rebate can be fixed through the frame in only 3 places: under the awnings and the lock latch strike plate. But such fasteners are too close to the edge of the wall and can cause chips. Therefore, it is better to limit yourself to mounting on direct hangers and polyurethane foam.
Before filling the gap with foam, the ends of the opening should be lightly moistened with water. It is advisable to fill it in such a way that the foam does not creep out beyond the plane of the wall. Cutting it off leaves the pores open and reduces the strength and durability of the fill.
To prevent the foam from squeezing the opening, it needs to be wedged. You can simply leave the canvas in the opening and insert scraps of cardboard into the gaps. If the door opens into the room, this will not work. You will have to use scraps of wooden blocks and wedge them in the opening.
In a day the foam will harden. The removable cover is fixed with glue. To be on the safe side, you can add small carnations with their caps bitten off. All that remains is to design the opening and embed the fittings. When you want to have a platband on both sides of the opening, and the width of the frame is less than the thickness of the wall, use additional strips.
Sooner or later you have to change your interior doors. The procedure is not so complicated that it is necessary to hire a specialist. If you have at least some skills in handling a saw, a level and a plumb line, you can tighten a few self-tapping screws - you can do it yourself. When replacing, before installing the interior door, the old one must be dismantled. And here too there are peculiarities. About all the subtleties - in photos and videos with detailed instructions.
Interior doors are made from different materials. Moreover, the material of both the door leaf and frame is different. The door leaf is:
- From fiberboard. These are the cheapest doors. Represent wooden frame, to which the laminated fiberboard is attached. They have low sound insulation, they are afraid high humidity, are easily damaged.
- From MDF. They cost much more, but the quality characteristics are much higher. They have better sound insulation, are not afraid of moisture, are stronger and more durable.
- Wood. The most expensive doors. Made from different varieties wood - from pine to oak or more exotic species.
Door frames are also made from the same materials. Most bad choice- fiberboard boxes bend even under their own weight, and hanging the door leaf on them is a real pain. So try to take either MDF or wood. There is another material: laminated wood. It is good because it does not need to be processed or painted, but the service life depends on the quality of the film.
Dimensions and equipment
Interior doors are produced standard sizes, it’s just a pity that the standards are different countries are different. For example, in our country, swing doors are made 600 - 900 mm wide with a pitch of 100 mm. In some EU countries the rules are the same - in Germany, Italy and Spain. In France, others are standard. Here the narrowest doors are 690 mm and then in increments of 100 mm.
Is the difference really that important? If you want to change only the door leaf without the frame, then it is important - you will have to choose from your segment or completely change it along with the frame. There is a much greater choice of interior doors of the same standard as in our country, while in France there is much less choice.
What width of doors you need depends on where you are going to place them. If we talk about standards, the following values are recommended:
- in the living room width from 60 to 120 cm, height 2 m;
- bathroom - width from 60 cm, height 1.9-2 m;
- in the kitchen, the width of the door leaf is at least 70 cm, height 2 m.
If, when replacing a door, it is decided to make the opening larger/smaller, permission is not required for this, but it is necessary to remain within the limits specified for each room.
How to determine what width of doors to buy? Measure the door leaf you have and you will know what you need. If there are no doors, find the narrowest place in the opening, measuring it, you can find out how wide the door block you need. This is a door leaf + door frame. So the outer dimensions of the door frame should be less than the measured value. For example, you got 780 mm, look for a block with parameters of 700 mm. Wider ones cannot be inserted into this opening.
The most complete set interior door - with frame, extensions and trims
When choosing a door, pay attention to the equipment. There are three types of assembly:
- Door leaf. You buy the box separately.
- Doors with frame. Everything is included, but the box is in the form of separate boards. You will have to file the corners and connect, hang the hinges yourself.
- Door block. These are ready-to-install doors - the frame is assembled, the hinges are hung. Just cut the sidewalls to the height, align them evenly and secure them.
Even though the quality of the door leaf is the same, the prices for these kits differ significantly. But the difference in the time you spend on installation is significant.
Step-by-step installation of interior doors
In general, there are many subtleties. We will try to describe and illustrate the most common moments in photo or video material.
Step 1: Assembling the Door Frame
If you did not buy an assembled door block, the first thing you will have to do is assemble the door frame. It consists of two long posts located on the sides, and one shorter crossbar at the top - the lintel.
Connection methods
There are at least two options for how to connect these planks to each other:
Regardless of exactly how you plan to connect the elements of the door frame, the first step is to cut down the pillars and lintels on one side. Then they are placed in a box on the floor, checking the correct connection. Next, you need to decide on the height of the side parts of the door frame.
Determining the dimensions
When folded, the required length is measured along the inside of the rack. The racks are not always made the same: the floor is often uneven and this must be taken into account. To do this, take a level and check how level the floor is. If it is perfectly level, the posts will be the same. If there is a deviation, it must be taken into account: make one of the racks longer. Usually this is a few millimeters, but this is also enough for the doors to warp.
When calculating the height, keep in mind that the racks should be 1-2 cm longer than the door leaf (including cuts). Make a 1 cm gap under the door if you are not planning to put a rug under it. If there is a rug/carpet/carpet, it is better to make it larger. Don't be afraid to leave gaps. They are necessary for. Please note once again: the height is measured along the inside of the door frame - from the bottom edge to the cut. Having cut it off, try on the racks in the doorway.
Now you need to saw off the lintel to length and, if necessary, saw on the other side (if the joint is at 45°). The length of the lintel should be such that when folded, the distance between the posts is greater than the width of the door leaf. The minimum gap is 7 mm, but more is often done. 7-8 mm are distributed as follows: 2 mm for hinges, and 2.5-3 mm for expansion gaps. Any interior doors - MDF, fiberboard, wood - change their dimensions depending on humidity. To accommodate these changes, clearances are required. And 5-6 mm is not always enough, especially in damp rooms. For the bathroom, definitely leave a little more, otherwise in high humidity they may have difficulty opening.
So, we have decided on the minimum gaps when installing interior doors:
- for hinges - 5-6 mm;
- at the top, bottom and sides - 3 mm;
- bottom - 1-2 cm.
After you have cut all the pieces and made the cuts, fold the box on the floor. If you notice any shortcomings in the joint, correct them using sandpaper attached to a block. The more accurate the match, the smaller the gap.
Assembly
Regardless of the material of the box and the connection method, holes are pre-drilled for the fasteners so that the material does not tear. The diameter of the drill is 1 mm less than the diameter of the screw.
The box is folded and the angles are set to 90°. Holding the stand and lintel in this position, drill holes with a drill. If there is an assistant, he can hold it. If you are working alone, temporarily secure the correctly aligned box with two cross bars - closer to the top and one at the bottom. This will help you avoid mistakes and make the correct connection.
If connected at an angle of 45°, make three holes on each side. Two on top - a centimeter away from the edge, and one on the side - in the center. In total, three screws are required for each connection. The direction of installation of self-tapping screws is perpendicular to the connection line.
If you connected at 90°, everything is simpler. Drill two holes from above, pointing the drill straight down.
Step 2: Inserting the hinges
Most often, 2 hinges are installed on interior doors, but 3 are possible. They are placed 200-250 mm away from the edge of the door leaf. If the frame and door leaf are made of wood, choose a place so that there are no knots. First, attach the hinges to the door leaf. The operating procedure is as follows:
- We apply loops to the selected places and outline the contours. The easiest way to do this is with a finely sharpened pencil, but experts advise using a knife blade. This makes it more accurate and leaves smaller gaps.
- If they have it, if not, take a chisel and select a material for the thickness of the loop. There is no need to make any more sampling, just for the thickness of the metal.
- A loop is installed in the prepared recess. Its plane should be flush with the surface of the canvas.
- The exposed loop is fixed with self-tapping screws.
Having secured two hinges, lay the door leaf in assembled box, set the correct gaps: on the hinge side - 5-6 mm, 3 mm on the opposite side and on top. Having set these gaps, the canvas is fixed using wedges. Place it exactly in the horizontal and vertical plane (you can use pads if necessary).
After setting, mark the locations of the mating parts of the loops. Sometimes it is more convenient to remove an already installed hinge and then install it in place. A notch is also made according to the markings. Depth - so that the surface of the hinge is flush with the surface of the door frame.
DIY door hanging is described in detail in the video.
Step 3: Installing the Door Frame
The assembled box must be correctly inserted into the opening. This is a very responsible task. Before installing an interior door, knock down everything in the opening that could fall off. If the wall is too loose, the surface is treated with primers deep penetration with an astringent effect. If there are too large holes, they are sealed with plaster; very large protrusions are trimmed off. It is easier to insert an interior door into the prepared opening. If this is your first time doing this on your own, make the job easier for yourself.
The box is displayed without the door leaf. It is oriented strictly vertically. Verticality is checked not only by level, but also by plumb line. The level often gives an error, so it is more reliable to check with a plumb line.
To prevent the box from becoming warped during installation, install temporary spacers on the floor and bevels in the corners that give high degree rigidity. In order for the doors to open, they are inserted in the same plane with the wall. This is the only way it will open completely. If the wall is uneven, place the box not along the wall, but vertically. Otherwise there will be problems with opening or closing the door.
How to insert an interior door with your own hands - in the same plane as the wall
Once the position is selected, you can secure it. This is done using mounting wedges - triangular wooden or plastic bars. First, wedges are placed on both sides of the lintel - crossbars, then above the racks. In this way, the position of the box relative to the doorway is selected and fixed. Next, the verticality of the racks is checked again. They are checked in two planes so that they are not tilted forward or backward.
Then install the wedges at the bottom, then after about 50-60 cm, checking that the racks are exactly level. Wedge additionally and cross bar- in the middle. Check whether the elements of the box are bent somewhere, and correct if necessary. You can start fastening.
Step 4: Attaching the Box to the Doorway
There are also two mounting methods: through directly to the wall and with mounting plates. If the wall allows and you are not afraid of the fastener caps in the box, you can attach it all the way through. It's reliable.
To install interior doors, it is enough to screw two self-tapping screws into the cutouts for the hinges and, on the other hand, under the plate of the lock mate. Additional holes are drilled in the cutouts. They are made so as not to fall into the holes for fastening the hinges or mating part. Make sure that the head of the screws is recessed and does not interfere with the installation of the hinges and lining.
Installation of interior doors according to this scheme is shown in the video. There are also several interesting nuances regarding the placement of the door frame.
If such a quantity of fasteners seems unreliable, drill through and cover the holes with decorative washers matched to match. Or there is also a special molding made of MDF with removable slats. The fastener is installed in the prepared groove and then closed with a strip.
The second method is secret, the fasteners are not visible. First attach from the back of the box mounting plates. In principle, it can be used for plasterboard, but there are also special ones that are thicker, although when installing interior doors, plasterboard ones will suffice.
Step 5: Foaming
After all the gaps are set and the wedges are installed, the gaps between the frame and the wall are filled with polyurethane foam. For better polymerization, the wall is moistened with water from a spray bottle. Then squeeze out the foam, filling no more than 2/3. Too much foam may cause the box to blow inward. So don't overdo it.
To ensure that the doors are not warped by the foam, spacers are installed. But if you don't overdo it with foam, nothing should happen.
Spacers for fixing the frame - when installing the interior door this way, the frame should stand level
After the foam has polymerized (the exact time is indicated on the cylinder), the spacers are removed, the door leaf is hung and the operation of the door is checked. Next come finishing work: and platbands, if necessary - additions.
You know how to install an interior door with your own hands. There is nothing overly complicated, but we tried to describe the main nuances. There is a lot of useful information in the video - these are recommendations from practitioners.
Saving on repairs is not always good, but if you have a person with hands and brains, he can cope with any task on his own. When purchasing a door block as part of a supplier's kit, the box is included in disassembled form. In order to learn how to correctly and accurately assemble and install the door frame of an interior door with your own hands, you need to watch the video, which also comes with instructions.
Not all apartments begin renovations from scratch. Often they simply replace the old door with a new one. In this case, it is necessary to dismantle - remove the old door block, and prepare the opening for installation of a new one. Usually the procedure is carried out without preserving the old leaf and door frame, so it is carried out by roughly breaking them out. But neatness won’t hurt if the owner doesn’t want to re-finish the walls and corners of the doorway.
First, remove the door panel. The door can be removed from the card hinges by lifting it, but the universal hinges must be unscrewed from one side.
Remove the cash, screwed with self-tapping screws (unscrew it with a screwdriver or screwdriver). If the cash is nailed down, pry it open with a wide chisel and remove the nails using pliers.
Determine where it will be attached to the opening. Usually attached to the hinge recess.
Cut off all the foam used to seal the door frame. Removed with a sharp knife.
Advice. When sealing the door frame with plaster, arm yourself with a chisel: lightly tap it with a hammer to remove all excess.
Remove the solid frame from the doorway. Place it on a horizontal plane and disassemble it. If preserving the canvas and box is not necessary, then you can remove them using a hammer, ax and crowbar. There is no special algorithm of actions here - break with all your might. This method will bring a lot of pleasure.
Selecting an interior door block
When choosing a door block it is worth considering:
Opening method. The most popular are swing doors. If there is a lack of space, use sliding doors. They are mounted in a special way and open along guide strips, sliding into a special recess in the wall. Folding (accordion-shaped) and stable (representing 2 halves of the canvas, swinging in both directions) are used much less frequently. They are matched to the appropriate design of the room.
Noise insulation. This quality is affected not only by the door leaf, but also by the frame of the interior door, as well as by the casings.
Canvas weight. This factor depends solely on the material from which the door is made. The heavier it is, the better quality the fittings should be.
Execution material. Doors are made from solid wood, MDF boards and chipboard. Products made from solid wood are considered to be of the highest quality; the downside is the weight of such a door.
Advice. When choosing an interior door block, consult the seller about its class fire safety. So, the door will protect you not only from noise, but also from fire.
Marking and measurements
Before assembling the door frame, it is necessary to take several accurate measurements and mark the materials. The door block is installed after the floors are ready and the walls are finished.
Dimensions are taken based on the height, width and thickness of the doorway. Indications should be indicated with an accuracy of 0.01 cm. If the measurement is inaccurate, a door installed with your own hands may not fit tightly or creak when opening/closing.
Of course, there are certain standards for door frames:
kitchen – 60 x 200 cm;
living rooms - 70-80 x 200 cm;
bathroom – 60 x 190-195 cm.
But taking into account the old buildings, the violation of the geometry of the opening and the difference in the thickness of the walls, it is better to play it safe and measure everything again. This will give guarantees proper operation door block as a whole.
To take measurements, you need to have the following tools on hand:
-
square;
measuring tape;
pencil or marker;
Proceed to measurement:
Measure the height and width of the opening. To determine the correct horizontal line, the width is measured at the floor level.
Determine the dimensions of the door leaf. To do this, you need to subtract the width of the door frame beam from the width of the opening, multiplied by 2, and round the result to the nearest hundred. For example, if the measurement of the opening showed 90 cm, and the width of the frame beam is 25 mm, then the dimensions of the canvas are calculated using a simple formula (900 - 25 * 2 = 850). Based on this, the canvas should be 80 cm. The height is determined in a similar way.
Separately measure the openings in the bathroom and toilet. Here, due to the threshold, which prevents water from flowing out, the height is significantly less.
Calculate the depth of the door block. To do this, measure the thickness of the wall.
Before installing the door frame, you also need to check the floor level. It is important that the floor is level. This measurement is made using building level. The difference between the door frame pillars should not exceed 2 mm.
Door frame assembly diagram
The door block is sold assembled or in parts. In the first case, the canvas is matched to the block, and all parameters are adjusted by the manufacturer. If the purchased door does not fit into the opening, then it is expanded. In the second case, you can purchase parts of the door frame and the leaf separately and fit the block to the door opening.
To assemble the door frame you will need:
-
self-tapping screws;
-
screwdriver or screwdriver;
hacksaw with blade for wood and metal;
pencil or marker.
So, let's start assembling the door frame.
On a flat horizontal surface (floor or large table) we spread material that will serve as protection against scratches during assembly.
We lay out 2 vertical bars of the disassembled box. They have a vestibule - special grooves that secure the canvas.
We put the door leaf into the narthex, leaving a gap of 2-3 mm.
We align the frame posts and apply the top block.
Mark the length of the top of the box and cut off the excess. It’s worth cutting strictly according to size, but if you miss a little, it doesn’t matter, the small imperfections will be hidden by the platband.
Screw the top rail to the posts using self-tapping screws or carefully nail it in place.
Measure the doorway again and cut off the excess.
Doors to bathrooms are equipped with a threshold. Measure another one short beam for the threshold is similar to the top crossbar.
The door frame is ready for installation.
Installation of accessories
After you have assembled the door frame, you need to install hinges on it. It will look more aesthetically pleasing if the hinges are screwed at the same height on each door.
Without removing the door block from the horizontal surface, after assembling it, place the fittings in the intended place and draw a dotted line with a sharp pencil. Remove the door panel and use a chisel to select a piece of wood with a depth corresponding to the thickness of the canopy card. Attach the fittings and pierce the twisting points with an awl. Screw the canopies with self-tapping screws. Part of it with a flag on which the loop will be hung is attached to the counter, and the loop is on the door leaf.
You can screw the fittings onto the door frame after it is installed, but you will have to do this while holding the door leaf suspended. You definitely won’t be able to do this operation alone.
Installing an interior door frame into an opening
After everything preparatory stages to install the door frame in the opening have been passed, you can begin installation. In order to prevent the U-shaped structure from “driving”, it is necessary to install auxiliary strips (spacers) on it; two are enough – at the bottom and in the middle of the rack.
In order to check the correctness of the frame geometry, you must use a plumb line or level. It is easy to construct a plumb line using twine and a bolt, tying it to the head.
Having placed the structure in the indicated place, check the verticality of the racks again. Don’t be too lazy to do this; if it’s uneven, the door won’t close. This procedure carried out on both sides of each rack.
The box is being installed anchor bolts. They will fix the door block and prevent its deformation. To do this, you need to drill 3 through holes in the racks directly into the opening, and then tighten the bolts.
Gaps between the door frame and the opening are eliminated using polyurethane foam. In order not to stain the front side of the structure, it is necessary to paste it over masking tape. Fill the voids with foam carefully, taking into account the fact that when it hardens, it increases the volume by 30-40%. To prevent the box from moving, it is necessary to install wooden spacers. After the foam dries, they are removed.
Final stage
The final stage includes the installation of platbands on the door frame. They give door block aesthetic appearance and hide minor installation flaws.
First of all, the length of the casing is determined. To do this, you can use the size table, or determine it yourself by measuring the length and width of the structure at the extreme point of the box. To join the platbands, it is necessary to make a side cut at an angle of 45°. You can use a miter box (a special device that allows you to cut wood products according to specified angle parameters) or a jigsaw, having previously measured the required angle with a protractor.
Next, each of the side trims is nailed to the box with two nails (bottom and middle). The upper horizontal casing is measured and sawed at an angle of 45°. After this, all 3 planks are finally nailed.
Advice. To ensure that the nails do not peek out from the platband, they must be recessed. Using a drill with a diameter corresponding to the size of the nail head, cut a recess of 1-1.5 mm.
When cutting the door frame beams, use a hacksaw or jigsaw. Their small teeth will prevent you from chipping.
When installing a solid wood panel, use 3 canopies. This way, a heavy door will last longer and the hinges will not sag. The third hinge is cut into the middle of the door frame or moved upward.
Doors for kitchen and living rooms should be 1-2 cm away from the floor level. This is done to ensure ventilation. Also in kitchen door they cut in small ones ventilation grilles so that if there is a gas leak, it does not concentrate in one room.
If the room has thick walls, and this was not taken into account when choosing a door, then it turns out that the width of the frame is less than the width of the opening. To correct such a defect, a supplement is used. Bars or boards that will completely cover the bare wall.
When finally installing the door frame, so that the foam adheres better, it is necessary to wet the surface with a spray.
Now you are definitely ready to install the door frame for the interior door. The proposed video describes in more detail some of the stages of this difficult process.
How to properly install an interior door: video
The key question in the process of arranging a doorway yourself is how to install a door frame with your own hands. With proper skill, this work is completed quite quickly. If you are doing this for the first time, first you need to become more familiar with the structure of this structure and its main types.
For self-installation door frame you need to know all the nuances of this process
Types of boxes
What is a door frame and why is it so important to install it correctly in the opening? The door frame is load-bearing element door structure, which holds the leaf and consists of two vertical and one horizontal strips with protrusions. It is fixed directly in the opening itself, adjacent to the wall. This structure forms a smooth portal and ensures reliable fastening of the door. Hinges are cut into one part of the frame, onto which the canvas is hung. On the opposite side, drill a hole for the lock and fix the counter plate.
Since the position of the door leaf depends on this element, correctly positioning the door with the frame is a priority during installation. If there is the slightest misalignment, the parts will rub and prevent the door from moving freely. If you do not calculate the weight of the canvas in relation to the strength of the box, more serious problems may arise.
What types of door frames are there? A classification can be made according to several criteria. For example, assembly may be a determining factor. In this case, the most popular boxes are:
- Direct– elements are connected perpendicularly. Most reliable way- “tongue and groove”.
- Diagonal– the edges of the planks are cut at an angle of 45 degrees.
Two types of connection of door frame parts
Also, the types of door frames are distinguished by the material of manufacture:
- tree,
- plastic,
- metal.
In apartments for entrance doors mainly used metal structures, and for balcony systems - metal-plastic boxes.
Preparatory work
Before installing a new door frame, you must check the presence of all necessary tools and auxiliary materials. Depending on the material of the product, their list may vary. In most cases, do-it-yourself door frame installation is done using the following tools:
- roulette,
- corner,
- pencil,
- level and plumb,
- wooden wedges,
- auxiliary bars,
- spacers,
- nails, screws and self-tapping screws,
- screwdriver,
- jigsaw, hacksaw or file,
- polyurethane foam,
- chisel,
- miter box.
The necessary set of tools for installing a door frame
Installing a new door frame with your own hands begins with preparing the surface. First you need to free the opening from old door and frames. If there are significant irregularities or deviations from the dimensions of the new box, the walls need to be adjusted. To do this, use plaster, and the protrusions are cut off with a grinder.
In order to correctly install a new box, it is recommended to make it to the specific dimensions of a pre-prepared opening.
Before you start assembling the door and frame, clear the floor surface, since preliminary assembly should be carried out in a horizontal plane. Installation takes place in several stages. Let's look at each step in order.
Assembly
At the second stage, you need to correctly adjust the dimensions of the parts. To do this, you need to measure the height of each side and the width of the opening. To visually assess the situation, you can place the planks against the wall and mark the places where you need to shorten them.
If the box is installed using a diagonal connection, you need to trim the edges of the planks. Since it is quite difficult to correctly determine the degree and cut down the door frame, be sure to use a miter box, then assembly will not be difficult.
Before placing the door frame in the opening, you need to check its dimensions with the dimensions of the door leaf. To do this, you need to secure all the parts to the floor.
Since it is possible to assemble the door frame as correctly as possible only in a horizontal position, lay the slats and canvas on the floor. Assembly begins with an assessment of the size match. To do this, place the parts around the perimeter of the door. If everything fits, you can start fastening the elements.
Assembling a door frame requires precision and accuracy
How to assemble a door frame depends on the type of connection. If straight is used, you need to match the projections with the grooves. With a simple diagonal, the planks are connected using nails. If you know how to correctly and quickly assemble a door frame with your own hands, there should be no problems with the rest of the work. Check that the dimensions match and that there is a small gap for the blade to move freely. Only after this can the actual installation of the box be carried out.
Installation
After preliminary inspection, you can put the box in place. Installation is carried out using bolts and foam.
Wedges are used to adjust the height of the door frame
How to properly install a new door frame with your own hands:
- To make it easier in the future, it is recommended to cut the hinges into the frame in advance.
- Then you need to carefully place the U-shaped structure in the opening.
- Use bolts and wooden blocks to secure its position.
- Insert pegs into the gap between the wall and the frame and adjust the level.
- After the position has been fixed, you can foam the gaps between the wall and the slats. In this case, it is necessary to secure the structure with spacers, since the elements may move. Simply foaming the door frame is not allowed by technology.
- Once dry, remove the spacers.
Main stages of door frame installation
Final finishing
The assembly of the door frame does not end there. If you do everything yourself, you need to finish the job. This involves removing excess fixing materials and decorative design opening. First you need to cut off the protruding pieces of polyurethane foam and wooden pegs.
Please note: if the box does not cover the entire thickness of the wall, additional extensions must be installed.
Opening without box
Not in every case is it necessary to install a box. For example, you can do without it if you set sliding system or an accordion door. But how can you install a door without a frame? All parts are attached directly to the wall in the opening or above it, depending on the mechanism used.
When installing the door frame, special mounting spacers are used
To make the passage look neat, it is necessary to level its surface in advance. Typically, plaster is used for this or combined with plasterboard sheets. Instead of a box, you can install decorative panels. They look almost the same, and the installation method is practically no different. Another option is to mount the slats on a slatted frame.
Which finishing method to choose is up to you. If you decide to follow the traditional approach and install swing door with the box, carefully follow the technology to avoid significant flaws.
