Many people are interested in how to glue vinyl wallpapers. We will fulfill this wish, but first we will help you figure out why this wallpaper has become extremely popular and what these finishing materials are.
Vinyl wallpaper dates back to the middle of the last century, created by two American engineers, one of whom discovered the excellent properties of polyvinyl chloride, and the other applied this material to a paper base. Unfortunately, only in our time have people come to appreciate this unique material, which has rightfully become a leader in sales and all kinds of ratings. Therefore, it is quite natural for the average person to be interested in vinyl wallpaper, as can be seen from numerous requests on the Internet. Subject " How to properly stick vinyl wallpaper?” is constantly heard.
Vinyl wallpaper - types, characteristics
Today, manufacturers have launched the production of two types of vinyl wallpaper, which differ in their underlying base; in one case it can be paper, in the other it can be non-woven fabric. However, this is not the only difference on the market today building materials wallpapers of this category are available for sale, integral part which is foamed polyvinyl, thanks to which an excellent structure of the material is created.
It has an unusually dense, non-standard heterogeneity of texture, due to which the wall surface does not need to be brought to an ideal degree of evenness, which is a prerequisite for wallpaper of other categories. The material will hide minor flaws and defects, while its surface will look perfectly smooth.
And, of course, the characteristics of vinyl wallpaper deserve attention - they are almost flawless and meet the requirements of modern times
When purchasing this material, you should pay attention to the icons applied by the manufacturer on the packaging of each roll.
First- This is a method of applying glue. This indicator is very significant; it should be strictly adhered to when gluing vinyl wallpaper. Because manufacturers offer varieties that require, in one case, to apply glue to the wall, and in another, directly to the back side of the wallpaper strip. These are completely two different production processes. Now add to them one more option, in which the wallpaper is supplied with an adhesive layer applied to it at the factory.
Secondly, Spend some time studying the characteristics of wallpaper, which are divided depending on their effectiveness in withstanding moisture and dampness:
- Water resistance during processing.
- Stability during wet processing.
- High resistance during wet processing.
- Resistant to mechanical stress (can be washed with a brush).
- High resistance to mechanical stress.
Preparing the wall surface for wallpapering
The beginning of wallpapering the walls is preceded by the removal of previous finishing materials from the surface (of course, if the apartment is not from a new building). You can remove old wallpaper quite easily; to do this, just moisten it with water (preferably warm) using a sponge or paint roller, wait a while so that it is well saturated with moisture, and then, using a spatula, separate it from the wall.
If the previous coating on the wall is made with water-based paint, you should use a drill with a metal brush attachment. And so, regardless of the previous finishing material, the old coating must be removed. Any average person can do this work independently, the main thing is that there is a desire.
Then a thorough examination of the surface is necessary to identify and remove identified defects and flaws. Cracks, recesses, chips and other small details can be repaired with putty or plaster mortar. The freshly applied leveling material must be given time to dry, after which the surface should be primed with a primer mixture deep penetration, dry and reapply leveling finishing layer putties.
But, since we are now talking about covering the walls with vinyl wallpaper, the first layer of putty will be quite enough, which, along with removing defects, will simultaneously serve as a leveling layer, which will remain to be brought to relative evenness with fine-grained sandpaper and primed (and also give time to the primer to dry). And if any roughness remains, the wallpaper material itself will absorb them.
We draw your attention to the fact that you should be careful when choosing a primer, because there is a huge range of these products on the building materials market. And you should choose a special glue for vinyl wallpaper. But if it so happens that for some reason it is not available at the moment, you can use wallpaper glue, which should be diluted with water to a liquid state. This mixture is also very good for priming walls for gluing vinyl wallpaper.
Having finished with all the preparatory work, you need to draw a vertical line on the wall using a plumb line, it will become a reference line that specifies the correctness of wallpapering in a strictly vertical direction. This process is very simple - on one of the walls under the ceiling, tighten a self-tapping screw and tie a plumb line to it. The plumb line itself will tension the thread, all you have to do is use a pencil and a long ruler to draw a parallel line on the wall, which will become the starting line for placing the first wallpaper strip.
We remind you once again that vinyl wallpaper has a high density, which allows you to effectively cover minor defects and flaws on the wall surface. Therefore, having opted for vinyl wallpaper, when implementing preparatory work you don’t have to waste time on the final leveling putty layer, which helps save labor costs and finances.
Covering the walls with vinyl wallpaper
Wallpaper of this type is made in a fairly large width, which helps reduce joints. It would be more correct and rational if you prepare wallpaper strips before you start gluing the wallpaper; you need to cut enough strips so that they are enough to cover all the walls of the room (to calculate the need for strips, you need to perform simple arithmetic operations). The length of the strip should be equal to the height of the surface to be pasted plus five to ten centimeters of allowance for various unforeseen circumstances.
Next we use the adhesive mixture, apply it in accordance with the icon on the roll, that is, either on the wall or on the back side of the wallpaper strip. It is better to apply glue paint roller, which will evenly distribute the glue over the surface, while it is better to coat the surface with glue only under one strip, and after gluing it, proceed to treating the next section of the wall with glue.
After this, the top and bottom of the strip are brought together (back side inward), raised to the ceiling and, holding the top of the wallpaper strip, unfold it to the bottom, making sure that it lies exactly along the drawn line that you drew earlier. Next, use a rubber roller or plastic spatula to level the strip, simultaneously squeezing out the remaining air under the material. To ensure a tight fit of the material to the surface, leveling should be done from top to bottom and simultaneously from the center of the wallpaper strip to its edges. The subsequent spectacle of the pasted wallpaper depends on the thoroughness of this process.
Vinyl wallpaper is much easier to glue than paper wallpaper, because unlike its analogues, vinyl strips are laid end-to-end. Although some craftsmen use the technology of overlapping their stickers, they do this using a little trick - they put the next strip on the previous one with an overlap of about two to three centimeters. After installing the second sheet, a vertical cut is made in the middle of the strips located one on top of the other. Then the upper cut strip is removed, and the lower one, which is located under the second strip, should also be removed. After this, the edge of the second strip needs to be glued. The result will be an even joint, almost invisible to the eye. This technique speeds up the gluing process and reduces the possibility of gaps between strips.
We described an option in which the wall surface is coated with glue, and if the wallpaper strips themselves are coated with glue, then the prepared wallpaper blank should be placed on the floor and the back side of the material should be coated with the adhesive mixture. It is also better to do this with a roller, thanks to which you can achieve uniformity of the adhesive layer. Wallpaper should be applied to the wall surface 5-6 minutes after coating with glue - this time is enough for the material to be well saturated. The further gluing process is carried out using the same technology as when applying glue to the wall surface.
If you spread glue on a strip of wallpaper, use moderation, because a small layer of the mixture is quite enough, the main thing is that the material is coated with glue thoroughly and evenly.
Also, after placing the wallpaper strip on the wall, avoid stretching the material to the sides. And no less important - promptly remove any remaining glue and do not allow it to dry out. It is better to do this with a clean soft cloth.
- It is advisable to stick vinyl wallpaper at an indoor temperature of no higher than 23 degrees Celsius.
- During the work period, the room should be protected from drafts.
- If this is your first time hanging vinyl wallpaper, develop the skills to work with it on the wall of some secondary room, which can then be covered with furniture, carpet or other objects.
- Prepare thoroughly for the gluing process; you should have at hand all the materials and tools necessary to perform such work, even rags for wiping your hands.
- When diluting wallpaper glue, the dry adhesive mixture should be poured into a container of water in small portions, stirring constantly. We emphasize once again - glue is added to water, but not vice versa!
So, we have figured out how to properly cover wall surfaces with vinyl wallpaper and it becomes clear that it is practically not much different from gluing any other types of wallpaper. At least at the main stages one to one. Therefore, the average person who has had to glue wallpaper at least once will be able to also carry out the process of gluing vinyl wallpaper, and, moreover, on high level, in no way inferior to the work of a highly qualified craftsman.
The main thing is not to rush and follow the wise life advice– It’s better to measure seven times than to cut once.
Before gluing vinyl wallpaper with your own hands, you need to know how to do it correctly so that they will delight you with their appearance for a long time. In addition, covering walls with wallpaper of this type requires a separate approach due to the characteristics of the material. Therefore, it is worth knowing something about him.
Essentially it is a vinyl film applied to a paper base or non-woven material. Such canvases are produced in 3 types:
- silkscreen printing;
- foamed vinyl.
Vinyl wallpaper is very durable, unlike paper wallpaper. Depending on the quality, they can be the most environmentally friendly wallpaper. But in this case, when choosing, you should pay attention to the brand.
Preparatory work
Before gluing vinyl wallpaper, the walls of the room must be treated with a primer. You need to go over it especially carefully in the corners. If there is an old coating, it must be removed and the surface leveled and puttied. Then wait about 2 days. Then sand the walls and apply a primer. Wallpaper glue can be used as a primer.
After priming the walls, you must wait at least 2 hours. In the meantime, you should remove all external parts of sockets and switches and prepare them. To prevent a short circuit, de-energize the room. In addition, all windows and doors must be closed.
Nuances when covering a room with vinyl sheets
Some people wonder: how to properly hang wallpaper if you need to adhere to the pattern. In this case, it is best to check the pattern by applying it to the previous strip and cut off the excess, leaving a small margin at the bottom and top.
But if compliance with the drawing is not required, then the canvases of the required length can be cut immediately, with a small margin of 5-10 cm. This margin can be useful if the ceiling and floor are not perfectly aligned, as a result of which the walls may differ in height. By the way, when gluing in the corners, it is best to cut this margin so that you can make an even cut there in the future.
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It is best to start gluing the walls from the corner opposite the window. In this case, it is initially necessary to mark the width, minus 1-2 cm, using a laser level. When wallpapering a room, this device is indispensable and very convenient. If the corners are not perfectly aligned, then the line should be shifted towards the corner so that the first strip completely covers it.
Before wallpapering near radiators, they need to be turned off to reduce the likelihood of the wallpaper deforming when drying. It is recommended to install wallpaper 10-20 cm under the radiator.
Pasting walls
To apply glue to the wallpaper you will need a roller and a brush. The glue is optimally distributed over the entire canvas with a roller, and the edges are processed with a brush. Moreover, it is advisable to do the latter twice: before applying glue to the entire canvas and after. Then you need to re-treat the wall (this must be done especially carefully in the corners) with an adhesive composition.
To make gluing vinyl wallpaper more convenient, it is better to fold the panel in four like an accordion. The top edge must be placed a couple of centimeters on the ceiling or molding and aligned with the marked line. Then, using a plastic spatula or rubber roller you need to completely smooth the canvas, driving out the bubbles. It is permissible to pierce the bubble with a needle. Excess glue should be collected with a clean white rag.
We glue the remaining vinyl wallpaper in the same way. It is important to know that the canvas is paper based, unlike non-woven fabric, it stretches a little, so it should be glued with an overlap of 1-2 mm, otherwise after drying the fabrics may separate at the joints. You need to work very carefully with such wallpaper. Among other things, you need to additionally go over the joint with a small roller.
How to glue corners
Particularly difficult for wallpapering are the corners of the room. Two methods can be applied here. The first one is overlap. With this method, it is best to stock up on glue for the edges. However, if the canvases are thick enough, then it is best to glue them end-to-end and trim them. To do this, the strip is overlapped with another, after which, at a slight deviation from the edge, both strips are cut vertically with a knife using a ruler. Then the excess is removed from the walls, and the joint is rolled with a roller.
But most often the corners turn out to be uneven. And it happens that the very middle of the canvas falls on them. Of course you can cut it into in this case wallpaper in this place and join again, with a slight overlap. But you can do it a little differently: do not cut the strip, but stick it as evenly as possible. In this case, you need to make sure that all the wrinkles go into the corners. Next, the wallpaper in these places must be carefully cut through sharp knife and glue with overlap. This way the design will be preserved, and the corners will look more aesthetically pleasing.
To ensure that the top and bottom edges of the wallpaper are even, trimming is done after gluing the strips. Moreover, if the vinyl wallpaper is thin enough, then trimming is best done at the very end, after drying. If the canvases are thick, then it is better to do this right away. Trimming should be done using a wide metal spatula and a knife. In corners it is better to use scissors.
Cutting sockets and switches should be done using sharp scissors. In this case, you need to focus on the switch frame, and not on the socket box.
To prevent fire hazards, it is important that vinyl wallpaper does not fall on the switch itself. Bending the corners inside the socket box is unacceptable.
Pasting windows and doors
When carrying out DIY repairs Special attention should be given to window and door openings.
When gluing doors, you should slightly apply the wallpaper onto the trim and then trim it using a metal spatula and knife. But it would be better to carefully remove the platbands. However, you should not wallpaper the door on both sides at once.
When gluing windows, you need to proceed as follows. If the window opening is perfectly flat, then you can mark it on the canvas in advance or cut a strip exactly to the window line. However, in the latter case, it will still be necessary to pay attention to the corners of the window sill. But if the window opening is uneven, then it is best to glue the panel completely, avoiding smudging in the intended location of the opening, and then cut out the excess in place with sharp scissors or a knife.
Decorating walls with ordinary paper, even if very durable, is not in fashion today; it is much more interesting to find out how to properly stick vinyl wallpaper, decorate a room with it, creating your own unique design.
What do you need to know before gluing vinyl wallpaper?
If you decide to abandon stereotypes in decoration living rooms, first take a broader look at available materials. Today, paper looks almost primitive, but you shouldn’t go to the opposite extreme either - and cork is quite expensive. Non-woven fabric is quite affordable, but requires very careful handling and, without experience, it is better not to mess with it. It remains to figure out how to properly hang vinyl wallpaper; perhaps this will be the most optimal solution both in terms of price and ease of finishing.
So, the choice is made. Now let's take a closer look at the material that was given preference. Essentially, this is the thinnest layer of PVC, or, in other words, polyvinyl chloride, a fairly common flexible plastic. The most common types of wallpaper made from it are smooth and foam. The first are divided into compact vinyl and silk-screen (with the addition of silk threads). The second, obtained by heat treatment, are divided into such varieties as heavy, high density and chemical embossed.
The advantage of vinyl is that it can be washed, and special impregnations prevent the occurrence of fungi. In addition, the foamed or textured surface of the material allows you to hide small irregularities on the wall or ceiling. The disadvantage of such wallpaper is that it does not allow air to pass through at all. In other words, if the house is built from “breathable” materials, vinyl trim will turn the premises into a thermos. During the gluing process, the paper base can stretch, which can cause distortions if the material is handled improperly.
The site’s site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate required amount wallpaper
We glue vinyl wallpaper with our own hands - step-by-step instructions
The first and basic rule that you need to adhere to when decorating a room is that you should never glue vinyl wallpaper to uneven walls, the only exception being small chips. Yes, the material in question is capable of smoothing out minor curvatures of the plane of the walls, but the key word here is “minor.” And protrusions, even the most inconspicuous ones, are unacceptable. Therefore, as carefully as possible, using plaster and putty. If you have to perform finishing on a material with high degree moisture absorption, it must first be treated with a primer. Only then do we glue the vinyl wallpaper with our own hands.
The room whose walls are to be covered with wallpaper should not be cold or damp; in addition, you need to turn off the air conditioning and make sure there are no drafts.
You can weld the glue yourself; it can be a paste or any other option available to you with the addition of PVA. However, a homemade composition is not always good, especially if you need to cover a wall with it. The fact is that on dark concrete or primed cement plaster it will be difficult to see where the glue has already been applied and where it has not yet been applied. And uncoated areas will definitely result in problems when covering walls with wallpaper. Therefore, it is better to take special mixtures that, thanks to certain additives, when applied to any surface, paint it a light pink color, becoming transparent after drying.
Technology for gluing vinyl wallpaper step by step
Before you start work, take a plumb line and a pencil, and check how vertical the line of the angle is, from which it is best to start gluing the walls. Choose an arbitrary angle, preferably the one closest to the door; if it is not vertical, apply a plumb line to the highest point and mark a line with coated thread. Next, we will consider in detail the technology of gluing vinyl wallpaper.
How to properly hang vinyl wallpaper - step by step diagram
Step 1: Wallpaper Marking
On a well-washed and dried floor, unwind the roll face down. We take a tape measure and measure the required length, having previously found out the height of the wall from the ceiling to the baseboard (taking into account the ceiling border). We make marks with a pencil along both edges of the roll and connect them with a cutting line, along which we separate the measured piece of panel with scissors. In the same way, we divide the remaining roll into equal parts, combining it with the previous canvases so that the pattern at the joints matches.
Step 2: Surface Preparation
The previously drawn vertical line from which we need to glue the wallpaper can easily become smeared when applying glue, so we draw along it with a pencil. Next we have 2 ways. If the vinyl layer is applied to a paper base, use a roller to cover a strip of wallpaper with glue, then fold its ends towards the middle and leave it to swell for a precisely measured time, usually indicated on the roll.
In just these few minutes you can just have time to prime the wall with the adhesive mass. If the base is non-woven, the glue is mostly applied with a roller to the wall, and the panel is covered with it only around the perimeter.
Step 3: Getting Started
The most difficult stage begins - gluing vinyl wallpaper with your own hands. We take the first strip by the upper corners (if they have a paper base, then very carefully, without stretching) and apply along the previously marked line. You can glue it either from the ceiling or with a small indentation, following it along the entire perimeter of the room. Inserting a piece of wallpaper into a plaster molding requires special skill.
We smooth the panel from top to bottom, pressing it against the wall with successive movements. It is best to do this using a wide foam roller, just be sure to take a clean one and do not confuse it with the one you used to apply the glue.
Step 4: Complete wall finishing
Before gluing the joints of vinyl wallpaper, apply the strips to the wall, following the pattern. Remember, the material you are working with is quite dense and overlapping always looks extremely unsightly. In places where wires exit the walls (switches, sockets), we make small holes before the panel completely covers this area, and bring the wiring to the outside of the cut.
Then we continue smoothing. If the ceiling has a slope, for example, in an attic room, we apply the strip end-to-end to the previous one, holding the next cut at the corner closest to the seam, and leaving the second one hanging freely. Then, pressing the panel along the upper edge of the wall, we cut off the excess piece with a sharp stationery knife.
During the smoothing process, make sure that no air remains under the wallpaper; you also need to try not to stretch the canvas, as otherwise wrinkles will appear. We also carefully push the excess glue to the edges and then remove it with a clean rag. If air bubbles do form, carefully pierce them with a needle and press the wallpaper in this place, smoothing it with a roller. When we reach a corner, we try to ensure that the strip extends to the next wall with an edge no wider than 5 centimeters, especially if the corners are uneven. At the end of the work, carefully trim the not yet dry canvas along the baseboard and make the holes wider in the locations of switches and sockets. We dry the wallpaper without air conditioning or drafts, without opening the window and closing the door tightly.
The question of how to glue vinyl wallpaper increasingly arises among those who have decided to carry out their own repairs, since this type of finishing material has become extremely popular. This increased demand is explained by the widest variety of patterns, reliefs and colors, as well as the technology of wall covering available to everyone, subject, of course, to certain requirements.
However, not many people accurately understand that there are many types of vinyl wallpaper, which can differ radically in structure and textured surface. Therefore, to begin with, it is worth understanding what this material is, what properties it has, and what varieties of it can be found in stores.
What is vinyl wallpaper?
The main advantages of vinyl wallpaper
Vinyl wallpaper appeared in our area in the seventies of the last century. They were then called “washable”, and they belonged to the category of super-scarce goods. The first wallpaper of this type “did not breathe,” that is, it had almost zero vapor permeability and did not allow air to pass through at all. Over time, technologists from manufacturing companies have made numerous improvements to the structure of this finishing material, and today the assortment of stores offers a wide selection of vinyl wallpapers, which are radically different from their predecessors in their improved qualities and appearance.
Today vinyl wallpapers are produced on paper and non-woven bases. Such a substrate, the main task of which is to ensure the most reliable fixation of wallpaper on the walls, is covered on the front side with a layer of polyvinyl chloride (it is this material that is colloquially called vinyl). Since such finishing is often designed for use in rooms with high humidity, many manufacturers introduce special antifungal and antiseptic components into the composition.
The polyvinyl chloride coating has increased surface strength and excellent resistance to mechanical stress, especially abrasive and abrasive properties. Due to its hydrophobicity, such a coating “reluctantly” retains dirt, which is why some types of vinyl wallpaper are ideally suited for finishing walls in kitchens.
Exactly upper layer vinyl wallpaper has decorative embossing, and thanks to innovative production technologies it is able to imitate some natural and artificial materials. Modern varieties for the most part, they are “breathable” because their coating has a porous structure that is capable of passing vapors without much delay. Thus, the walls do not accumulate moisture, since the possibility of its free evaporation is created. This property of the finishing material allows it to adhere well to surfaces without peeling off due to increased moisture in the room.
At the same time, during the process of washing wallpaper, water and detergents do not penetrate under the coating, but quickly evaporate from their surface, thanks to micropores closed on the outside.
Vinyl wallpaper is becoming an increasingly popular finish due to other advantages over other types wall coverings this row. The material has a stable color that does not change its original appearance when exposed to ultraviolet rays. A high-quality and properly glued coating is quite durable and can last for decades until home owners simply get tired of it.
The most important drawback, which, however, is quite justified, is high price this material. However, this circumstance in no way reduces the popularity or sales volumes of vinyl wallpaper, since they can transform a room beyond recognition.
A correctly selected wallpaper pattern can visually expand or narrow a room, make the ceiling lower or higher, which is often necessary in small spaces in city apartments.
Vinyl wallpaper is easy to paste and level on surfaces, so they are often used to decorate not only walls, but also ceilings. Ornate designs applied to the canvases can hide the imperfections of the walls at their junctions with the ceiling, since even in apartments of panel houses there are quite often significant differences in this line. Some types of these wallpapers are able to perfectly disguise even small flaws in the walls, due to their thickness, density and applied relief pattern.
vinyl wallpapers
Existing varieties of vinyl wallpaper
Nowadays, the consumer has the opportunity to choose one of several types of vinyl wallpaper, depending on the room in which they are planned to be used. Each of them is good in its own way if properly glued to prepared surfaces.
- Silkscreen printing– this is the most popular type of vinyl wallpaper for decorating the walls of living rooms and bedrooms, since the canvases have a very attractive and effective outer coating, which, due to its texture and inclusions, usually imitates natural silk. A similar design move is achieved using the hot stamping method, which, in addition to an aesthetic appearance, also gives mechanical strength and resistance to fading of the paints used.
There is an important condition - such wallpaper should be pasted only on well-leveled wall surfaces, otherwise all flaws will appear through the coating, spoiling the expected result.
- Smooth and hard The vinyl layers applied to the base are quite thin, but have good density and strength. The hard coating differs from the smooth layer in its more pronounced resistance to mechanical impact. A smooth coating is more delicate and therefore can withstand only minor external influence. These types of wallpaper, like silk-screen printing, are not capable of masking wall imperfections, so they require a perfectly flat surface.
- Foamed vinyl. This material, applied to the base, creates the thickest decorative outer layer of all other types of vinyl wallpaper. It is the most durable and dense, and has a three-dimensional pattern. It is the relief of the surface of the canvas that can hide minor defects on the walls.
This type of coating is produced by applying a polyvinyl chloride mass to the base, and then pressing the relief under the simultaneous influence of high temperatures.
Pasting walls with vinyl wallpaper
The main features of gluing vinyl wallpaper
When gluing vinyl wallpaper, you need to constantly keep in mind some features of this process.
- The correct choice of adhesive composition is of decisive importance when performing wall finishing work with this material.
- Since, when glue is applied to their surface, non-woven or paper-based material tends to stretch, and when it dries, to shrink, the seams between the canvases may diverge noticeably. Therefore, for vinyl wallpaper, you should purchase a special glue that is capable of holding heavy canvases on a vertical plane and preventing them from linear deformation.
- The glue can be applied only to the wallpaper or to both surfaces, that is, to the canvas and the wall at the same time. If the surfaces of the walls are pre-treated with a primer (or the same wallpaper glue), then only the wallpaper is coated. In addition, you need to pay attention to the packaging; each roll has recommendations for applying glue.
- The glue consumption when working with vinyl wallpaper is much lower than when gluing walls with decorative paper. When purchasing glue, you should pay attention to its packaging, which indicates how many rolls it is designed for.
- Vinyl wallpaper of all types can only be glued end-to-end, as they have a fairly dense structure and a relief surface, and the foamed type of the canvas is also seriously thick.
- When applying glue to sheets, special attention must be paid to the edges of the sheets. They must be well coated with the composition, otherwise the fabric will diverge at the joints and spoil appearance the entire surface.
How to calculate the amount of wallpaper?
Before you go to the store for wall finishing material, you should calculate the required quantity. This process is especially important if the wallpaper is to be joined according to the pattern. If you have no idea about the algorithm for such calculations, we recommend that you read the article on our portal, which describes in detail the procedure and all the necessary explanations for it.
Finishing tools
To cover walls with vinyl wallpaper, in addition to glue, you will need the following tools:
- Roller with a soft nozzle and brush - for priming walls and applying glue
- A rubber roller is for smoothing canvases on walls and a narrow one is for rolling joints.
- Building level, plumb line, ruler, building square, pencil - for marking.
- Plastic spatula for squeezing out excess glue and air bubbles from under the canvas.
- A sponge and soft cloth to remove excess glue that appears at the joints.
- Stationery knife with replaceable blades.
- Metal wide spatula.
- Masking tape.
Preparing walls for wallpaper
In order for the wallpaper to stick and look neat on the wall, the surfaces must be carefully prepared. You should not assume that this is not a particularly important process - it will determine how impressive the coating and the overall appearance of the room will look. In addition, if the walls are good, then the work will be much easier and faster.
The process of preparing walls is not the most pleasant task, as it is quite lengthy and “dirty”, but this should in no case stop homeowners, since the result will please them for many years.
So, having patience and preparing everything necessary tools, you can begin this process.
wallpaper glue
Cleaning walls from old coating
If you plan to apply wallpaper to walls that have an old coating - wallpaper, whitewash or paint, then it must be removed. As a rule, this task is not easy - sometimes even regular wallpaper, once glued “conscientiously”, are difficult to separate from surfaces. Therefore, to facilitate this process, you need to use one of several proven methods.
Cleaning walls from wallpaper
Old pasted wallpaper can be removed with a spatula, but operations are usually carried out first to soften the wallpaper and separate it from the walls as easily as possible.
- Paper wallpaper is soaked in a soap solution, which can be applied to it using a roller or sponge. The coating is moistened several times so that it is well saturated and signs of separation from the wall appear.
The first application of the soap solution is to the entire wall, and then it can be applied to the area that will be cleaned first.
In addition to soaking with a solution and a roller, quite often to remove paper sheets, a steam iron or a special device is used through which steam is supplied to the wallpaper under pressure.
Depending on the composition previously used for wallpapering, they can be peeled off easily, immediately in solid sheets, but in other cases you will have to make an effort and work with a spatula, peeling off pieces of different sizes.
- , washable or two-layer wallpaper, then in order to thoroughly wet them through, cuts are made on the sheets with a sharp knife or punctures are applied with a needle roller.
When the canvases begin to lag behind the walls, they can be removed in large pieces or also using a spatula.
Some craftsmen prefer to remove only the front layer from two-layer wallpaper, and use the bottom paper layer as the basis for a new coating. This is not recommended, since it is best to inspect the wall for cracks or the appearance of cracks at the junctions of the walls and ceiling. The remaining paper layer will interfere with normal inspection of the surface, and if defects do form underneath it, then over time they can negatively affect the new coating.
Removing multilayer whitewash
If several layers of whitewash have been applied to the wall, and it is cracked in some areas, looks uneven and begins to bubble away from the surface, then it will have to be removed, otherwise the work of decorating the wall with wallpaper will be done in vain.
To remove whitewash, it also needs to be soaked. If the coating layer is thin, then it is washed off the wall with water to which a little vinegar is added. Of course, this coating cannot be removed with one wash, so the process is carried out two to three times, wiping the surface with a dry cloth.
A thin layer of whitewash can also be removed by applying grinder with brush attachment. This method will significantly speed up the work, but when using it, you must have a respirator and safety glasses, since removed whitewash under the influence of high revolutions of the instrument, it will fly apart, and after a few minutes nothing will be visible in the room due to fine white dust.
A thick layer of whitewash will have to be soaked several times until it begins to separate from the wall. Begin soaking from the ceiling or from the area where cracks or shedding have formed on the coating. Water is applied using a roller or a large sponge.
Removing old paint
It would seem that it is impossible to remove paint from a wall without a trace, especially if it is applied thin layer. However, you can use several simple methods to carry out this process. Moreover, each of the masters can choose the most suitable one for themselves.
- Chemical method liquefies the paint, making it easy to clean it off with a spatula. A special composition is applied to a small area of the wall with a brush and left certain time indicated on the solution packaging.
Under the influence of such a solvent, the paint begins to melt and separate from any surface, be it concrete, wood or metal. Such solutions are suitable for all paints existing on the market, from automotive to enamel or oil. Using chemical composition, it is necessary to protect your hands with rubber gloves, and your eyes with special glasses. It is advisable to carry out this work by organizing effective ventilation of the room.
- Another way to remove paint from a wall is to use a hair dryer and the scraper included in its kit, or a regular spatula. Under the influence of high temperatures, the paint becomes plastic, and, without waiting for it to cool and harden, the coating is peeled off to the base.
- Another way to rid walls of paint is abrasive cleaning using a drill or sander with special attachments. This process requires patience and time as it is quite lengthy. When cleaning a wall using this method, you cannot do without protective equipment for the respiratory tract and eyes.
Leveling the surface of the walls
If, after removing the decorative coating, a plaster layer is discovered underneath it, it is necessary to conduct a thorough inspection of it. The coating must be smooth, free from cracks, unstable areas and shedding. In order to make sure that it fits securely to the wall, the layer is tapped.
If some areas of the coating produce a hollow sound, it means that the plaster has moved away from the wall. These places are removed to the ground and sealed.
If the damage covers large areas, it is better to remove the plaster completely and apply a new leveling layer.
In the case where cracks, potholes or serious irregularities are found on a cleaned wall, in the presence of, in general, high-quality plaster, they must be repaired or removed. If this is not done in advance, the crack may spread later and can pull the wallpaper along with it.
Detected cracks expand and deepen, then they are cleaned and covered to their full depth with a primer. After this, small gaps are filled with a special repair sealant, and for wider cracks you can use polyurethane foam. These materials are plastic and will fill the entire cavity well, and after drying they will not crack, unlike putty or cement mortar. After the sealant or foam has hardened, the excess is cut off flush with the overall surface of the wall.
Sometimes you have to resort to complete plastering of the surface
If serious unevenness or peeling is found on the surface, the wall covering will have to be completely renewed. Detailed instructions information on completing this stage of work can be found in a separate article on the portal dedicated to.
Walls that are in good condition and do not require leveling with plaster should be primed after sealing cracks. The primer is applied using a roller with a long handle. IN hard to reach places and in the corners - with a brush. Sometimes one layer of this composition is enough, but most often it is necessary to prime the surface two to three times. The number of layers directly depends on the condition of the wall and the material from which it is built. The primer greatly increases the adhesion of the wall and the materials covering it, and also disinfects its surface, penetrating deep into the pores.
After the primer layers have dried, you can proceed to the final leveling of the walls with putty. The putty layer is designed to level out minor unevenness in the walls and is applied evenly over the entire area.
Walls are brought to perfect condition using putty.
Carrying out the final leveling process requires good skill and knowledge of certain rules. How to make a putty solution or purchase it at finished form, - all this can be found out from a special article on our portal.
When the putty dries, it must be sanded well until it is perfectly smooth, otherwise all the unevenness that might remain on the surface will appear through the vinyl wallpaper. For sanding, you will need a smoother, onto which you first attach a sanding mesh, which will remove larger irregularities, and then sandpaper with medium or fine grain, which can bring the smoothness to perfection.
Sanding the walls is done in a counterclockwise circular motion. Work usually starts from the top corner of the wall, gradually moving to another corner of the room, covering the entire surface. The pressure on the trowel should be light, since the putty layer is usually only 2–3 mm thick.
It should be remembered that this process is quite dusty, so it is necessary to protect the respiratory tract and eyes.
The process of preparing the walls is completed with high-quality priming.
Priming the walls before gluing wallpaper on them is mandatory, as it will promote good adhesion of the wallpaper to the wall and also protect internal surfaces from mold in the corners external walls. Therefore, you should not neglect this process. In order to choose the right composition and apply it efficiently to the walls, we recommend that you study the article, which can be found on our portal.
Pasting walls with vinyl wallpaper
To begin with, it’s worth giving some tips on gluing canvases to walls and preparing the room for this process. These recommendations will be especially useful for those who will be engaged in such finishing for the first time, since the reliability of fixing the paintings on the walls will depend on their implementation.
- Vinyl wallpaper is only applied to well-dried walls. To check how dry they are, you need to glue them overnight masking tape to the wall a piece of polyethylene measuring approximately 500x500 mm. The tape secures the polyethylene along its edges so that there is a sealed space inside. If drops of moisture form between the film and the wall in the morning, it means that the surfaces are not dry enough, so you should wait until they are completely dry.
- Before you start wallpapering the walls, you should close the windows and doors, and also turn off the air conditioners and fans, since a draft is strictly contraindicated for this work. Failure to comply with this condition will lead to peeling of the canvases from the surfaces. So, when you come in the morning to check the result of the work, you can find the wallpaper on the floor. You can turn on air conditioners and fans, as well as open windows and doors only after the glue is under decorative coating completely dry.
- Before you start gluing the wallpaper, first, at the junction of the ceiling and walls, along a broken horizontal line, the ceiling cornice is fixed with glue. It will be convenient to carefully trim the top edge of the canvas.
Wall marking
Marking walls for wallpapering is not as simple as it seems at first glance. But this stage of work is extremely important, and if it is not carried out, the canvases will move away from the vertical line and will have to be peeled off, and then aligned and glued correctly. Remodeling can have a bad effect on the appearance of the wallpaper, so it is best to glue it according to the markings.
Find out, with instructions for novice finishers, from a new article on our portal.
Usually the room has a quadrangular shape with internal corners. Wallpapering should be started from the edge of the window or from the corner located closer to it.
If work will be carried out from a corner, you should immediately check its verticality. In order for the first canvas to be laid out perfectly evenly, it is necessary to retreat from the corner of the room towards the pasting by the width of the wallpaper minus 20÷30 mm.
non-woven wallpaper
Next, take a plumb line with a colored cord and attach it to the top mark. If there is an assistant, he can hold the cord at the top, and the plumb line falls down, defining a strict vertical. After this, the cord is pulled and released, leaving a straight vertical line on the wall. One side of the first wallpaper sheet will be equal to it. Subsequent sheets will then be joined to it. The other side of the first sheet will be driven into a corner, with a transition to the other wall, and even if the corner is not perfectly vertical, this will not be very noticeable there.
Then, the width of the wallpaper roll is plotted from the vertical marked line on the wall and another line is drawn along the marks. This will mark the boundaries for gluing the next sheet on both sides. There is no particular point in laying out the entire wall - you will just need to regularly monitor the verticality of the pasted canvases so that there is no distortion. True, some finishers prefer to make a reference vertical marking line for it before gluing each sheet.
Mixing glue
The wallpaper adhesive solution needs to sit a little, so it needs to be diluted in advance before you start preparing the wallpaper. Making glue is not at all difficult, since the entire procedure is outlined on the package. Simply pour into a prepared container (a clean plastic bucket is suitable for this) required quantity water room temperature, and then, stirring continuously, add the contents of the package.
If you choose glue with an indicator, it should turn pink. This composition is convenient in that unglued areas will immediately appear on the wall, which will not be noticeable when applying conventional transparent solutions. This quality of the glue will help to avoid air pockets under the pasted canvas, which can form in the remaining dry places on the wall, which will significantly reduce the adhesion of the wallpaper to surfaces. After drying, the indicating shade of the glue disappears.
Preparation of wallpaper
Vinyl wallpaper can have a clear pattern that requires selection, or one that does not require adjustment. When purchasing wallpaper with a selected pattern, you should take into account that their consumption is much higher, since they leave quite a lot of waste. Wallpaper that does not require adjustment is practically waste-free, and it is much easier to work with, but on the wall they look more modest than canvases with rich patterns or even subject compositions. Therefore, more often than not, consumers choose the latter finishing option.
Selection of wallpaper pattern
So, there are several ways to adjust the pattern.
In the first case, the first strip of wallpaper is marked in height, cut and pasted, and a roll is applied to it, if necessary, shifted until the pattern matches. The remaining wallpaper sheets are adjusted in the same way. With such a selection, you should be prepared for the fact that the waste from each roll will be 1000÷1500 mm, which leads to unnecessary costs, since, for example, instead of the required six rolls, you will have to buy seven.
The second method is to take into account the set pitch of the pattern elements (rapport) and select the required shift value between them when combined. Typically, these values - repeat and the required amount of shift - are indicated in pictograms on the packaging label of the roll. To make adjustments, you need to open two rolls at once and, by moving the sheets, determine the most advantageous and economical option matching patterns.
The third method of selecting a pattern is somewhat different from the first two. To save money, you can try to cut, choosing a combination of ornaments, simultaneously from two rolls or even three rolls at once. For example, odd sheets are cut from the first roll: 1, 3, 5, and even sheets are cut from the second: 2,4, 6. Often, using this selection method, it is fashionable to reduce wallpaper waste from each roll to 200 ÷ 300 mm.
Learn more about what rapport is and how to combine for various types drawing, is described in the article about calculating the number of wallpapers, the link to which is given above.
Cutting cloths
When cutting a roll, not only the height of the area to be pasted and the displacement of the pattern are taken into account, but also a reserve of the length of the web is created for its finishing trimming. Typically, the amount of such reserve is 50 ÷ 80 mm, with an even distribution when gluing it from above and below.
In the intended place, the canvas is bent, the fold is smoothed and the canvas is cut using scissors, a stationery knife or a sharp spatula. You don’t have to bend the sheet, but draw a straight dividing line perpendicular to the edges on it, checking it with a construction square.
To begin with, it is enough to cut the canvas from two to three rolls, and after gluing them, you can move on to cutting the next batch, otherwise it will be easy to get confused. After cutting the canvas on it, it is recommended to immediately mark with a pencil its serial number on the wall and the direction of the sticker - this way it is more convenient to control the correctness of the operations when gluing.
Carrying out the wallpapering process
After everything is ready for work, you can move on to the main work - gluing wallpaper to the walls.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | The first step is to apply glue to the sheet, to the wall or to both surfaces - as required by the technology. Experienced mothers unanimously declare that best results are achieved by mutually coating both the canvas and the wall surface with glue, regardless of the manufacturer’s recommendations. The canvas is laid out on a table or on the floor, previously covered with oilcloth, and glue is applied to it - this process can be done with a roller, brush or sponge. It is very important to coat the edges of the sheet well. |
 | The upper and lower edges of the coated canvas are folded towards its middle (the decorative side of the sheet remains on the outside), and the canvas is carefully removed to the side for impregnation. After this, the second sheet is immediately covered with glue and also folded. Then, if the roll of wallpaper indicates that to apply it to the wall you need to apply glue to the wall, then this action is then performed. It is best to coat the wall using a roller with a long handle - this tool will significantly speed up and facilitate the process. At first glue solution must be applied to the area of the wall intended for two already coated canvases. |
 | Next, you can proceed directly to pasting the wallpaper on the wall. To do this, take the first coated sheet, straighten its upper side, folded towards the middle, and then, with an overlap of approximately 25 - 30 mm relative to the line knocked off at the top of the wall or the glued cornice, apply it to the wall surface. The canvas is secured on top, and then aligned along the beaten vertical line along which it will join with the second coated sheet. |
 | After bringing the canvas along a line from the top to about half the height, they begin to press it against the wall in the middle, and then from it, using a plastic spatula, the sheet is straightened using the herringbone method - from the center to the edges, in which excess glue is removed from under it and air. When they reach the middle, carefully bend the lower folded part of the canvas - it should already perfectly coincide with the vertical line. In the same way, straighten and remove excess glue to the very bottom. The glue squeezed out along the edges is immediately removed with a clean rag or a slightly damp foam sponge. |
 | A more difficult task is to glue and fit the second sheet butt to the first one. First of all, it is aligned precisely along the joint line, while simultaneously matching the pattern of the canvases. |
 | After the excess glue and air have been expelled from under the second sheet, the joint is rolled using a special rubber roller - this process must be carried out while the wallpaper is still wet. The special conical or barrel-shaped shape of the roller promotes optimal attraction of the edges of the wallpaper at the joint - the border becomes almost invisible. |
 | In parallel with gluing the sheets (each separately or, for example, every two or three sheets), trim the upper and lower edges along the line ceiling cornice and along the line of the plinth (or along an arbitrary straight line, which will subsequently be covered by the plinth). |
 | It is better to make a cut with a sharp stationery knife, after first pressing the bottom or top of the canvas with a spatula against the baseboard or cornice, depending on where the cut is made. When making a cut using a spatula, it will turn out smooth and neat. At the same time, you should not skimp on replacement blades - it is best to break off a section of the blade after each blade, so that the cut is guaranteed to be smooth, and the wallpaper does not get wrinkled like an accordion under a dull knife. The cost of blades is not so high that it is unjustifiable to save on this. After trimming, the edges are carefully smoothed, if necessary, lightly coated with glue from the inside. |
 | When decorating walls with wallpaper, beginners often have confusion about how to stick them neatly on interior and external corners, as well as in others problem areas. |
 | As we remember, the first sheet was applied to the inner corner by 20÷30 mm The second sheet is glued with an overlap of 10÷20 mm. The sheets where they overlap are pressed against the wall, and excess glue is removed. If thin ones are glued paper wallpaper, you can limit yourself to this, but it won’t work with vinyl. |
 | If vinyl wallpaper is pasted, then, firstly, the overlap will look unsightly, and secondly, the canvases will not stick together reliably. Therefore, in order to achieve an even joint, while the wallpaper is still wet, a straight vertical line is drawn in the middle of the overlap from the ceiling to the floor, and then a through cut is made along it using a sharp knife. After this, the outer cut edge is removed, and then, from under the canvas, the edge cut from the adjacent sheet is pulled out. The next step is to press the joint and then roll it with a rubber roller. |
 | Another case is that during the process of pasting the walls reached the opposite corner, and it is located in such a way that it would seem that the next canvas would have to be bent at the corner. This is never done - the canvas must be divided into two parts along a vertical line. The first strip, which is a continuation of the glued wall, should be equal in width to the distance from the last glued sheet to the corner plus 10 mm. On the wall adjacent to the corner, a vertical line is marked along a plumb line at a distance equal to the width of the second strip. The cut parts are glued to the wall one by one, with the first being aligned with the last pasted canvas, and the second along the already applied vertical line, as it will set the direction for further pasting on this wall. Then the same through cutting is carried out along the overlap, the scraps are removed and the resulting joint is rolled with a roller. |
 | In order not to get confused with the general arrangement of the drawings on the wall in this problem area, they use a little trick. After the canvas is marked with a vertical line to be cut in two, a horizontal strip of masking tape is glued to the top. This will become a kind of marker - when the paintings overlap, the strip will need to be combined - and the overall arrangement of the drawings on the walls will be perfectly consistent. And small distortions in the corner, due to overlap, will be almost invisible. After gluing and aligning the cut fabric, the strip of tape is carefully removed. |
 | External corners are also considered problematic, so a few words need to be said about them too. The diagram shows how the outer corner should be covered. The canvas pasted on the left wall from the corner is folded onto the right wall by 20÷25 mm. |
 | On top of it, overlapping about 10÷15 mm, a solid canvas is glued, already on the right wall. Then, in the same way as in the process with internal corner, produced smooth cut in the middle of the overlap, removing the cut edges of the canvases, joining them and rolling them with a roller. |
 | Sometimes gluing walls with window and door openings located in them also causes some difficulty. However, it should be noted that this moment of work cannot be called particularly difficult if the procedure is followed. Firstly, it is necessary to take into account that there is no need to cut the canvas that will be located near the door in advance. Secondly, it is taken into account that part of this sheet will remain above the door. Therefore, the canvas begins to be fixed to the surface in the same way as other sheets of material, but it is pressed and smoothed only on the entire part of the wall. |
 | When the sheet is glued to the top and side of the wall from the door, you can begin cutting it and removing the excess fragment. The canvas is cut so that the edges of its remaining part fit onto the frame of the doorway, approximately 20÷25 mm. |
 | Next step on the corner door frame The wallpaper on it is cut diagonally to 12÷15 mm. |
 | Then, the edges of the canvas above the doorway and located along its vertical edge are additionally coated with glue and pressed against the wall and the end sides of the protruding frame fixed to the door frame. Next, in the same way, the second corner of the doorway is pasted, and only after that a fragment of wallpaper is selected according to the pattern, which will fill the remaining area between them, above the door. |
 | If a window or door is recessed into the wall and you plan to wallpaper their slopes, then the canvas should be on the wall above the opening to the width of the slopes of the opening with a small margin of 10÷20 mm. The wallpaper sheet is fixed with glue on the upper and side parts of the wall from the opening. Then, carefully, using a stationery knife, cuts are made along the upper and lower edges of the opening, but the sheet is not cut off from the side, since it will need to be folded and glued to the slope. |
 | Next, a fragment of wallpaper is selected according to the pattern and size, and then glued to the upper slope of the window or doorway with a bend on the upper part of the wall by 12–15 mm, and from above it is covered with an overlap of wallpaper glued above the window opening. Then it will be possible to make through cuts and ensure high-quality joining of the blades along the resulting joints. |
 | To make the design look neat, all work must be done quickly so that the glue on the canvas does not have time to dry. Therefore, it is best to take all measurements in advance and prepare pieces of wallpaper of the required size. The last step is to cover all remaining unpasted areas above and below the windows with wallpaper fragments. |
 | Heating radiators often cause problems. It's okay - here you need to use prudence, ingenuity and increased accuracy. |
 | Finally, the issue with sockets and switches remained unclear. There are no particular difficulties with this, but compliance with safety rules will be required. Before gluing the fabric on which there will be an outlet or switch, be sure to turn off the electricity supply to the room. The socket is removed, then the canvas is glued in the usual way. Next, it’s easy to feel for the socket in order to make a cross-shaped cutout that does not extend beyond the boundaries of the socket. When the wallpaper has dried, you can remove the resulting “wings” and carefully install the socket in place. After this, you can reconnect the room to the power supply. |
After all these operations, it is necessary to create and maintain optimal mode for drying wallpaper. Drafts are completely eliminated, “educational work” is carried out with households, especially children, so that no one enters closed room until it is completely ready. The use of heaters to artificially accelerate the drying of glue is strictly prohibited - the effect of this is guaranteed to be catastrophic!
Read useful tips optional, in our new article.
We hope that this publication will help site visitors understand the nuances of vinyl wallpaper stickers. Having understood the principle of operation, having calculated the required amount of materials, you can go to hardware store for purchasing everything you need. Then, following the instructions and recommendations, boldly, but with great care, begin transforming your apartment or house.
In conclusion, for greater clarity, here is a video with an example of decorating walls with vinyl wallpaper:
Video: master class on covering walls with vinyl wallpaper
In addition to being beautiful and practical, vinyl wallpapers are considered ideal for new buildings. Their non-woven base is elastic, so the wallpaper does not peel off from the wall due to its natural shrinkage. For gluing such wallpaper, special glue is used. How to glue vinyl wallpaper correctly?
Embossed vinyl wallpaper is very practical, and its decorative characteristics are beyond praise.
What tools are needed
To work, in addition to the wallpaper itself, you will need
- brush for priming walls;
- roller or brush for applying glue to wallpaper;
- ruler and level;
- roller for rolling seams;
- a special spatula or brush for smoothing panels;
- paper tape;
- two cotton rags and a sponge, which are necessary for wiping off excess glue from the floor and walls;
- stationery knife for cutting wallpaper;
- a brush for coating small areas of wallpaper with glue;
- a wooden spatula, which is used to press and straighten wallpaper on narrow sections of walls.
The necessary tools for wallpapering must be clean and in good working order.
How to prepare walls for wallpapering
First of all, remove any remnants of old wallpaper from the walls. Dilute the dry mixture for gluing vinyl wallpaper according to the instructions on the package. The walls must be primed. This can be done with glue, or you can use a deep penetration primer. It is also advisable, before starting work on covering the walls with vinyl wallpaper, to treat the walls with a special compound that prevents the appearance of mold under the wallpaper.
After the glue and composition have dried, it is necessary to draw a vertical line on the wall. It will serve as a guide for gluing the first panel. You can only focus on the angle if you are sure that the corners in the room are even. To draw the line correctly, use a plumb line.
After this, you need to turn off the electricity in the apartment and remove sockets and switches from the walls.
Remember that vinyl wallpaper can only be glued to dry walls. They must be cleaned of old coatings; if there are cracks, they should be puttied and the surface leveled. How to check dry walls? Attach a small piece of polyethylene to the wall with masking tape. If overnight on it inside droplets of water will appear, which means the walls are not dry enough yet, and you need to wait until they dry completely.
In order for the wallpaper to lie flat and hold tightly, you need to carefully prepare the walls by removing the remnants of old wallpaper from them.
How to make sure the surface is durable before covering walls with vinyl wallpaper? Just stick a piece of ordinary tape to the wall, pull it back sharply and look at the underside. If there are remnants of old plaster or paint, the wall cannot be considered prepared. Do not forget to level and prime the walls before gluing vinyl wallpaper.
Work on wallpapering walls should be carried out in a room where there is no draft. It is necessary to close all windows and turn off fans and air conditioners. It is not recommended to glue new wallpaper onto old ones. The walls must be completely cleaned. Turn on fans and air conditioners and open windows only after the wallpaper has completely dried.
How to properly hang vinyl wallpaper: step-by-step instructions
Cut the wallpaper into strips, leaving a 10cm allowance along the length of each strip. If you bought vinyl wallpaper with a pattern, carefully select the height of the adjacent panels. Place the cut adjacent panels of wallpaper on top of each other, pattern down. Place no more than 10 strips in each stack. Each strip should be shifted relative to the bottom by 10-15 cm.
Coating the edges of the canvas with glue is a particularly important operation that requires attention and diligence, because it determines how strong the joints between the strips of wallpaper will be
Step 2: apply glue
How to properly glue vinyl wallpaper so that the joints of the strips are almost invisible? The panels should not overlap each other; the wallpaper should be glued end to end. Work can begin only after the primer has completely dried. First, apply glue to the section of the wall under the first panel. Then glue is applied under the second sheet, etc. There are varieties of vinyl wallpaper where you only need to coat the wallpaper sheet with glue, not the walls, and there are also those where you need to apply glue to both the wall and the wallpaper. Information on how to apply adhesive composition, read on a roll of wallpaper.
In modern repair technologies Almost everything is provided, so you can use a convenient and effective roller to smooth out the joints between the canvases
Step 3: Wallpapering
It's better to do this together. One person stands on a stepladder and applies the top edge of the wallpaper to the wall near the ceiling. The other, standing on the floor, supports the lower end of the strip and carefully aligns the edges with a vertical line drawn along the wall. The panel should be lightly pressed against the wall and the air bubbles should be pushed out with a brush from top to bottom from the axis to the edges. It is very important to wipe off excess glue if it comes out at the edge of the wallpaper. Do this with a clean cloth, not a brush.
Wallpaper is smoothed from top to bottom in the directions shown in the photo.
Step 4: trim the edges of the wallpaper
After the panel is glued, excess material remains near the baseboard and under the ceiling. The excess must be cut off with a knife along a ruler. The lower edge of the wallpaper is bent onto the baseboard by 4-6 mm. It is very important to use only a sharpened knife when cutting; if its blade is dull, the wallpaper will tear and wrinkle. If you use a utility knife, change the blade periodically as you work.
Step 5: technique for gluing vinyl wallpaper in “problem areas”
Problems when wallpapering walls most often arise when cutting off excess wallpaper from the bottom near the baseboard, from the top near the ceiling, near switches and sockets, and in the corners.
If you did not remove the baseboard before starting work, wallpaper should be inserted into the joint between the wall and the baseboard. At the same time, the remaining part of the lower edge is cut off and a strip is glued to cover the seam and part of the baseboard. But it is best to remove the baseboard before starting work. When the wallpaper is pasted, the baseboard is screwed back into place.
Cutting wallpaper near the baseboard must be done with a special knife so that the cut is even and neat.
The edge of the panel adjacent to the ceiling should be turned up about 5 cm so that the glue does not stain the ceiling. Then the strip of wallpaper must be pressed against the wall from above and smoothed with a brush from below. If you are gluing wallpaper not up to the ceiling (for example, you decided to combine two types of wallpaper or part of your wall is painted), mark with a pencil the border of the upper part of the panel around the entire perimeter before gluing. It is this strip that you will focus on when gluing.
Should be left in the corners extra wallpaper to the depth of the niche and allowance. It is necessary to make cuts on the panel from the bottom and top. Pressing the canvas, bend it around the corner, and then carefully cut it. The joints and overlapping areas of the wallpaper must be pressed firmly against the base so that the gluing is strong.
Today you can often find vinyl wallpaper in the kitchen, where their durability, practicality and ease of use are especially important.
If you decide to paste wallpaper behind the radiators, the canvas should extend no further than 10-20 cm behind the heating radiator. Use a narrow roller with a long handle to press the wallpaper to the wall. Near switches and sockets, wallpaper is, as a rule, not cut in advance, but glued directly to the holes. When the glue dries, holes are cut in the wallpaper. Switches and sockets are screwed into place after completion of work.
Video master class: how to glue vinyl wallpaper
