Only a person far from farming can say that plants don’t care in which bed they grow. The shape and size of the beds determine the level of soil moisture, the intensity of gas exchange and the species composition of microorganisms that live in the upper layers of the earth. All these factors have a direct impact on the quality of the substrate, and consequently on the level of productivity - the main criterion of success for any gardener. How to use a scientific approach for the benefit of your garden, how to create not only a neat appearance beds, but also to increase the productivity of your plot as high as possible? We will try to answer these questions in this publication with a large-scale selection of photos of a wide variety of beds.
Principles of arranging beds
A garden bed is a relatively small, often quite isolated area of soil where you can provide individual care for a plant of a particular crop, create humidity conditions and carry out fertilizing. It is obvious that on summer cottage or in the garden, plants are grown with different agricultural techniques, often with opposing care requirements - without an individual approach to achieve high yield will not work. It is for this purpose that differentiation is necessary on the site - dividing the territory into zones, and the zones into beds.
If the purpose of the beds is more or less clear to every gardener, then such nuances as the level of illumination, the composition of the soil and even its consistency are necessary for different cultures, are not always taken into account and not by everyone. Unfortunately, failure to understand that cucumbers and tomatoes, for example, require different approaches leads to a significant loss of yield. By creating simple trenches for planting certain crops, or isolated beds, the owner of the site can give the plants proper care - all efforts will invariably pay off in the quality or quantity of the harvest.
Cultivation methods
There are two main (and at the same time diametrically opposed) approaches to farming:
- traditional;
- ecological.
The traditional method of cultivating the land is a thing of the past, incredibly labor-intensive and often irrational, extremely traumatic for the ecosystem. It is based on human attempts to control the processes in the soil and its condition. TO traditional way farming includes the following activities:
- digging up the soil twice (per year);
- herbicide treatment;
- uncontrolled amount of fertilizer applied to the soil;
- With this principle of farming, beds are cultivated in such a way that they have a small number of capillaries and, as a result, an insufficient number of microorganisms.
- All these factors inevitably lead to low yields and depletion of soil resources.
The second approach, ecological (natural), is based on the ability of the soil to regenerate itself. There are many principles of natural farming, but they are all based on the fact that humans rarely interfere with the natural course of processes occurring in the soil. Digging up the soil is replaced by surface loosening, and weeding once a week or two is replaced by timely mulching.
Modern farming methods are based on an ecological method and with this approach microorganisms, plant roots and insects independently restore the soil structure. An increase in the number of capillaries increases gas exchange processes, as a result, plant roots are naturally enriched with nitrogen, which leads to an increase in both the quality and quantity of the crop. All this can happen without chemical fertilizers at all or with a minimal amount of them.
Types of beds for a modern vegetable garden
Only at first glance it may seem that the beds differ from each other only in size and shape. Although these indicators have great importance for plants that require an individual approach and isolation from other crops. The beds may differ in the very principle of formation, for example, they may be not on the site, but above it, located on the so-called “green wall” or inside plastic pipes large diameter. It all depends on how to care for each specific type of plant.
Box-shaped bed
The box bed is one of the most popular methods of soil cultivation today. This method of planting allows not only to create a separate place for each crop, but also to organize the landscape of a summer cottage or vegetable garden at a high aesthetic level. It is not difficult to organize a garden bed in the form of a box - a fence in the form of low shields is installed on the prepared and marked site (hacienda or small backyard).
To organize the fencing of the bed-box, you can use:
- flat or wavy slate;
- unnecessary boards;
- polycarbonate sheets;
- plastic;
- any waste material that can withstand soil moisture for more than one summer season.
Next, layers of organic matter and the soil itself are poured into the prepared compartment. Such beds are not dismantled for the winter, and in the spring, after surface loosening, it will be possible to plant seeds or seedlings of certain crops again. This approach is not only practical and rational, but also aesthetic.
Beds with high sides
Raised beds usually presented in the form of ridges or trapezoids. The rise of the soil is usually ensured by a “cushion” of compost layer, on top of which soil is poured. In areas of our country where the mole cricket is common, a layer of compost is not used; lifting is carried out only by pouring soil. The mole cricket usually makes nests in the compost layer (a warm and humid place is an ideal habitat) and can spread throughout the entire area very quickly.
Raised beds are most often used for growing melons:
- cucumbers;
- pumpkins;
- zucchini;
- Sometimes some varieties of potatoes are grown this way.
Beds with high sides are created for one season. In most cases, the embankment subsides greatly under the weight of snow and loses its functional purpose. If weaving plants (for example, cucumbers, some types of zucchini) will be grown in a bed with a box design, then it would not be a bad idea to equip the fence with a vertical lattice (made of wood or metal, created using weaving, or any available means).
If such a structure is equipped with a high dome, covered with film, That ordinary bed becomes a greenhouse. Growing seedlings in such portable structures is very convenient and practical.
"Warm" beds
The beds are called “warm” because their lower layers contain fresh, unrotted manure. The mound of manure is carried out in late autumn to winter period All processes took place under the cover of snow. In early spring, after the snow melts, such beds are cleaned so that they are warmed by the sun and decomposition processes begin.
Next, the manure begins to rot with a large release of heat. As a rule, in compost heaps during “burning” the temperature inside can reach 40-50 degrees. But the layer of manure on the beds is not high and this effect does not occur; moreover, winter exposure significantly slows down the “burning” processes. All these manipulations and preparations are needed in order to plant crops in a ready-made, “warm” bed. This is usually done for planting plants with a shallow root system - cucumbers, radishes, etc.
After the end of the summer season, all manure is processed. If you remove upper layer soil, then under it you can find humus, which is a very valuable substrate. This natural fertilizer can be scattered throughout the garden or summer cottage. And at the end of autumn, it will be possible to put manure back into the bed and start the process of preparing a “warm” bed over a new one.
Beds with drainage
In clay buds, in very low places into which all the water constantly drains and in wetlands, it is necessary to arrange beds with drainage. They are not difficult to make - usually a 50-60 cm layer of soil is removed, then sand about 20 cm high is laid out at the bottom of the resulting hole, then sawdust and humus are poured in, and only after that soil is added. Drainage and gas exchange in beds of this type are excellent - an ideal place for growing root crops (for example, potatoes).
Material for making beds with your own hands
Creating a bed of any configuration requires some preparation. In order to arrange the beds in the form of boxes, you will need to use the following materials:
- slate or boards, plastic or polycarbonate of such a height that there is at least 30 cm in the ground, and at least 20 cm on the surface of the entire size of the product;
- pegs made of wood or metal, which will be needed to secure the fencing material;
- non-woven material that can be used to cover the bottom of the prepared trench.
After the workpiece - the dug hole is covered non-woven material, it will be necessary to fill it with the following layers on top:
- sawdust or straw - approximately 10cm;
- dry foliage (which you prepared in advance in the fall) - about 10 cm;
- a mixture of compost and soil, ratio 1 to 2 (layer size 10 cm or more);
- a clean layer of soil of at least 10 cm.
- marking on the ground - usually done using pegs and a stretched cord. When calculating the size of the bed, it is important to understand that the narrower the trench, the faster it will dry out;
- Next comes the preparation of the material for the fence - cutting it, preparing pegs. If the box is not very large, then it will be more convenient to assemble it in advance using self-tapping screws. Such structures are reusable, they can be removed for the winter if the beds are moved;
- then a fence is installed on the garden bed;
- then non-woven material is placed at the bottom of the pit;
- A layer of sawdust, dry leaves, soil mixed with compost and just soil is poured in successively.
And in conclusion. Your plot can not only produce a good harvest, but also look aesthetically pleasing. Landscape design can manifest itself not only in the courtyard of a private house, but also in the garden and vegetable garden. But the main principle for arranging beds on the territory should still be the plants’ needs for sunlight. In a properly located bed, plant care will require minimal care.
The quality and quantity of the harvest, time for processing and care depend on the correct laying of the beds. When dividing plots, you should pay attention to the topography and location of the site, the climatic conditions of the region, soil characteristics, and the cardinal directions. The length of the beds is not significant, but the width of the plots must be taken into account to ensure the safety of the seedlings. There are several types of beds, each of which has its own pros and cons.
- 1. Decide what vegetables to grow on the plot and in what quantity.
- 2. Calculate the required area.
- 3. Draw up a site plan and the order of the beds.
- 1. Vegetables are grown on the south side of the plot, since most crops love sunlight and the earth warms up better.
- 2. There must be no tall trees or buildings shading the beds.
- 3. You should remember about flat terrain. Drainage ditches are installed in low-lying areas.
- 1. Place the beds across the slope to reduce erosion.
- 2. On medium steep slope(50%) place vegetable ones on the top. Shrubs are planted below. If there is excess moisture, then raise the beds.
- 3. On a slope steeper than 5-10%, terraces are built to accommodate plantings. The length of the beds is 5 meters and the width is about a meter.
- 4. If the steepness is higher than 70%, then make ditches up to 20 centimeters deep in the middle of the area and a meter from the edge of the terrace. The grooves protect the soil from erosion.
- convenient for watering;
- water does not stagnate;
- does not require hilling;
- no weeding is needed when using mulch;
- loosening to a depth of 8-10 centimeters is sufficient;
- early planting of crops;
- the soil is not washed away.
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Basic rules for creating beds
In order to optimize work in the garden, before starting sowing, you should:
Thoughtful work will eliminate unnecessary labor costs and even make it possible to allocate a corner for relaxation. small area.
Area and location of the site
To determine the planting area, you need to take into account the number of family members. According to N.I. Kurdyumov, author of the book “Encyclopedia of the Smart Summer Resident,” 90 is enough for five people square meters plantings, not including paths between beds. He prepares beds 0.5 meters wide and about a meter apart. With this arrangement, 4 acres of land are required.
Take into account some nuances when arranging the beds:
The shape of the beds can be different; you should not focus on rectangular plots. Too wide ridges are not recommended, since during processing you will have to walk between the seedlings, which is undesirable. Ideal plots are those that allow you to do weeding and maintenance while standing on the path. You can care for the bed on both sides or on one side, but across the entire width.
In small areas, vertical, multi-level plantings are recommended. This method is suitable for growing garden strawberries, strawberries, cucumbers, flowers, herbs. But vertical structures can freeze in harsh winter. Therefore, you should take care of their safety by constructing protective coverings.
It is recommended to keep a notebook to include a site plan with the location of the beds. Allotments are numbered. The year of planting is indicated on a blank sheet. This will help maintain crop rotation in the garden and choose the right location for plants. These indicators are important for obtaining a good crop yield. divide the plot into 4 parts. Plants with different requirements for soil nutrition and perennials will grow in the zones. Demanding foods include cabbage, pumpkin, garlic, and potatoes. Moderately demanding: melon, peppers, radishes, kohlrabi, spinach, onions, carrots, beets, lettuce, greens. The legume family is distinguished by its undemanding nature when it comes to soil composition. Perennials: strawberries, wild strawberries, herbs, are given a separate place in the summer cottage.
It is important to note the location of the compost pit in the plan diagram. It can spoil the appearance of the landscape, so they install a composter. Plant residues and other waste are processed better in a composter than in a regular pile. If bacteriological additives are added to the pit, the contents decompose faster.
Layout on a slope
Mountainous terrain is not an obstacle to growing crops. A number of conditions must be met to facilitate the process of growing on a slope:
Creating new beds
Raised or deepened and fenced beds are popular among gardeners. They are good because they are easier to process; they can be filled with special soil with a balanced composition. It is convenient to calculate the required amount of fertilizer. A fine-mesh mesh at the bottom of a raised or fenced device protects root crops from small rodents.
The advantage of the structure is its thermal insulation. In them, crops ripen 2-3 weeks earlier.
In virgin lands
There is a method for preparing land on an unplowed virgin plot. First, the turf part of the soil is removed, but not thrown away, but sent to compost pit. The layer of soil freed from grass is dug up, adding fertile soil. Fertilize with manure or humus, peat. Add sand or lime depending on the requirements of the plants.
The edges of the beds are reinforced with sides. In the first year, it is better to plant potatoes on new land. This will reduce weeds. The potato yield should be high on rested soil. And next year you can already create beds.
Raised beds are fenced with boards pre-treated with antiseptic, concrete, plastic, metal, brick, slate. It is possible to purchase specially made borders. Equip required height sides. Branches, grass, cardboard or sawdust are placed at the bottom. Fill with organic matter and soil. In dry areas, it is more effective to push the beds deeper into the ground. The edges protect against soil spreading and prevent the spread of weeds from the path.
Bed parameters
The width of the bed in the garden or greenhouse should be such that you can easily process the crop without entering the bed itself. In this case, it is recommended to make them no more than a meter wide. And between plots a distance of 80 to 100 centimeters is maintained. If the tops of the plants are too spreading, then you can increase the width between the beds by another 10-20 centimeters.
Narrow beds according to Mittleider are also popular. Mitlider, an American farmer, developed a system optimal vegetable garden. According to his system, beds are laid out no wider than 45-50 centimeters, leaving 90-centimeter paths between them. Seedlings grown using this method receive maximum sunlight and are well ventilated. In combination with proper feeding The method allows you to get a high yield from the site even under unfavorable weather conditions.
About the length
The length of the beds according to Mittleider should be about 9 meters. Common bed sizes are three meters, 4.5 or 6 meters. The length doesn't matter much.
It is important that all ribbons are the same length and width. This makes caring for plants easier.
Height
The height of the plots depends on climatic conditions region, also on the characteristics of the soil. Sandy loam soil should not be raised, especially in dry climates. Tall ones heat up better and dry out faster, so they require watering.
Raises heavy clay soil. This method is suitable for areas that are flooded with water, and if there is groundwater. The optimal height is considered to be 40 centimeters, but sometimes it is raised to 70 centimeters.
A stepped arrangement of beds is possible. Multi-level placement allows you to save space on the site. Low plantings are planted on the south side, the height of the beds is gradually increased, so that the located crops will not shade each other.
Advantages of a raised bed:
Cardinal directions
It is important to take into account the cardinal directions when arranging the beds, since successful orientation of plantings helps to reduce the number of diseased and underdeveloped seedlings, uniform lighting, reduce the frequency of watering, and shorten the growing season. The crop yield increases by 15-20%. Some gardeners claim that following the direction of planting allows you to store your crops longer.
In the northern and central regions Plants are planted from north to south, since in these regions there is less sunlight and heat, more cloudy days, and more moisture. In a similar way planted plants will not interfere with each other.
In the southern regions, the beds should be located from west to east. This form of planting allows you to retain moisture. In drought conditions, this method allows you to get a normal harvest.
If the area suffers from drafts, then the direction of the beds should be adjusted. In this case, you need to place the bed with the crop across the direction air flow. Plantings lose less moisture, retaining more carbon dioxide, which promotes photosynthesis.
Paths between rows
Experts advise creating paths to reduce the spread of weeds. These can be temporary floorings or permanent paths. Boards are suitable for laying paths, fiberboard sheets, sawdust mulch, lawn grass, roofing felt, brick, stone, old linoleum, pebbles, crushed stone and more.
If the location of the beds does not change, then permanent paths are made. Concrete is more durable. Concrete passages can be monolithic, under tiles or under stone.
They post not only concrete tiles, but also rubber. Rubber ones do not slip, which allows the summer resident to move more safely. Wood cuts are often used, but weeds grow freely between them.
Weeds on the paths
Having marked the paths, you should remove the turf from them. Place cardboard, thick paper, rags, plastic film or special grass material - geotextiles. Cover everything with sawdust or gravel. Sprinkle crushed stone, pebbles or broken bricks on top of all these layers. Grass will not grow on such paths.
When redeveloping, it is recommended to remove the road layer and fill the passages with fertile soil.
The bed is the basis of the vegetable garden; the yield, the effort and time spent on processing and agricultural techniques for growing crops depend on its laying. When thinking about how to arrange beds on a site correctly and conveniently, it is important to take into account a complex of factors: location and topography, climate, soil characteristics, cardinal directions and a number of other factors. Study the theoretical aspects in advance to avoid problems in practice and increase the yield of each hundred square meters.
Basic rules for creating beds
To optimize garden work, even before starting field work, you need to:
- decide on the types of vegetables that will be grown, as well as their quantity;
- using special tables, calculate the required area;
- draw up a plan of the site and the location of the beds on it.
The right beds are functional and beautiful
Such simple preparation will help to avoid unnecessary labor costs and, perhaps, will allow you to allocate a place on the territory for recreation or fruit and berry crops.
Area and location of the site
To establish the required garden area, first of all, decide whether you will grow vegetables only for your family, or also for sale. Kurdyumov N.I., author of the book “Encyclopedia of a Smart Summer Resident,” claims that for a family of five people, 90 square meters of plantings will be enough, excluding the paths between them. He uses ridges 0.5 m wide with wide passages of 1 m each, that is, the occupied area is about 4 acres.
It is not necessary to rely on other people's advice. Using special tables, calculate the annual need for vegetables per family, as well as the required area for growing them. To save space and increase yield, grow crops such as cucumbers, tomatoes, beans and the like on a trellis, or tie them up.
Table of vegetable needs and area of their cultivation
Having calculated the size of the garden, proceed to its location on the plan. Consider here:
- Grow vegetables on the south side of the dacha, there is more sunlight and the earth warms up better;
- trees and buildings should not shade the garden; place them on the north side of it;
- the terrain of the plot should be as smooth as possible; if this cannot be achieved, take care of drainage grooves in low-lying areas, or think about a terraced garden.
An example of a site layout on paper
The shape of the allotment for growing vegetables can be any, do not get hung up on standard rectangles. However, keep in mind that when processing, it is undesirable to walk between plantings, so do not make the beds too large. Ideally, if you stand on the path, you can process the entire width of the plantings, or at least more than half.
If the garden area is small, provide high, vertical or multi-level plantings. They are especially popular for growing strawberries, wild strawberries, herbs. Keep in mind vertical structures With perennial plants It’s better to make them mobile so you can hide them for the winter, otherwise the vegetables may freeze.
Non-standard multi-level beds
Rules and features of planning
A serious approach to growing vegetables requires little preparation and competent planning beds in the garden and their location.
- Prepare a separate notebook where you will write down how to distribute the beds on the site.
- Write down the plan of the dacha in your notebook and mark the location of the beds on it.
- Number the ridges.
- On a blank sheet of paper, write down the year of sowing and the numbering of the islands with the crops that you will grow.
Such a notebook and diagram will serve for many years, preserving important information for the gardener. It helps to navigate between crops, adhere to planting shifts and correctly select neighboring plants, which is extremely important even for a small area. After all, failure to observe crop rotation of vegetables and ignoring their compatibility threatens soil depletion and a significant reduction in yield.
For the convenience of sowing shifts, conditionally divide the territory into four zones where you will grow crops with different requirements for soil nutrition, as well as perennials.
- Very demanding - cabbage, cucumbers, pumpkin, potatoes, garlic.
- Moderately demanding - onions, carrots, beets, lettuce, spinach, kohlrabi, radishes, peppers, potatoes, melon.
- Undemanding - the legume family.
- Perennials - strawberries, wild strawberries, rhubarb, perennial herbs.
Proper layout makes crop rotation easier
When adding a garden diagram to your plan, do not forget to note the location of the compost heap. If you don't want to spoil the appearance of your landscape, install a composter. The remains of plants and other organic matter piled here are processed better than in a regular heap. To enhance the effect of rotting, use special bacteriological additives.
Layout of a cottage on a slope
The location of the cottage on a slope is not an obstacle to growing garden crops. Good advice specialists will facilitate this process:
- Place the beds across the slope to reduce erosion.
- Place on a slope up to 50 degrees vegetable crops in its upper part. Plant shrubs below or make high beds if the soil there is excessively moist.
- On a slope steeper than 5.10, equip terraces on which to place plantings. The recommended ratio of their length and width in this arrangement is 4:1 or 5:1.
- On a slope steeper than 70, make ditches up to 20 cm deep in the middle of the garden and at a distance of 1 m from the edge of the terrace. This will additionally protect the soil from erosion.
Terraced vegetable garden
Creating new beds
Raised or deep fenced plantings are very popular among modern gardeners. They are easier to process, you can use special earthen mixtures with the correct composition, it is easier to calculate required amount fertilizers, and a fine mesh at the bottom will protect against rodents. Make such beds “warm” and harvest two crops a year, because the vegetables will ripen a couple of weeks faster.
If you are planning to locate a vegetable garden on an unplowed virgin plot, use one of the methods:
- Remove the layer of turf, but do not throw it away, but chop it up and compost it. Dig up the bare soil and, if possible, add new fertile soil. Reinforce the edges with sides.
- A less labor-intensive method: dig up a vegetable garden area and plant it with potatoes. The number of weeds will decrease significantly, but do not rely on bountiful harvest in the first year.
- Make raised beds: dig up a space for a vegetable garden or simply trample (mow) the grass. Equip the sides at the required height. Place branches, thick plant stems, cardboard, paper at the bottom, and cover with quickly digestible organic matter and soil. In dry climatic conditions, it is better to deepen such ridges into the ground.
Creating raised “warm” beds
There is a wide variety of techniques for arranging beds:
- high - very popular among American farmers;
- mound;
- according to the Mittleider method;
- multi-tiered and others.
In each case, be sure to place edges along the edges; this prevents the soil from spreading and prevents weeds from spreading onto them from the paths. For edging, purchase ready-made garden borders or use any available materials:
- wood, pre-treat it with an antiseptic;
- concrete;
- plastic;
- metal;
- brick;
- slate.
Be sure to follow the order of planting your beds as noted on your layout plan. To save space and increase yield, plant new plants in the areas vacated after collecting predecessors. This way you can grow not only vegetables with a short growing season, but also, for example, potatoes if you dig them up young.
Parameters of beds - a little geometry and mathematics
Professional gardeners advise abandoning traditional continuous planting of land in favor of separate rather narrow beds with wide paths. They say that the yield of crops in such a garden is higher, since, thanks to a thoughtful arrangement, the illumination of each plant increases significantly. In addition, correctly selected planting parameters make them easier to care for.
Comfortable wide aisles are a must
How to calculate the optimal width
Recommended optimal width garden beds differ in different sources. The only thing that all farmers agree on is that it should be such that it can easily process vegetables without going into the soil.
Thus, the width of the last strip should not exceed 1 m. Between plantings, there must be passages with an optimal width of 90-100 cm. There is no need to create a distance between the beds, because spreading tops of plants will significantly reduce this area.
Narrow beds according to Mittleider are also popular. This American farmer developed the “ideal garden” system, according to which 45 cm wide beds alternate with 90 cm wide passages. Plants planted using this method receive maximum sunlight and are well ventilated. These factors, together with balanced feeding, guarantee a high yield even in the absence of good weather conditions.
Location in greenhouses
What should be the ideal length
Focus more attention not on the length, but on ensuring that all the ribbons are the same size, this will greatly simplify the care of crops. However, some amateurs ignore this point, creating entire compositions from plantings of different lengths, thus improving the design of the site.
An original approach to form
What height to choose
The height depends on climatic conditions and soil characteristics on the site. On light sandy loam soil, you should not raise the plantings, especially if the climate is arid. High beds warm up better, but also dry out faster, so they will require frequent watering. In such conditions, make the “warm” bed deep rather than raised.
Heavy clay soils, especially in places that are often flooded with water, or where groundwater is close, need elevated structures. Optimal height for processing - 40 cm, but sometimes they are made higher - 60-70 cm.
In small areas it is possible to place a vegetable garden on different levels. At the same time, make the lowest plantings on the south side, gradually increasing their height, so the plants will not shade each other.
Raised beds are easy to work with
Raised beds have a number of advantages:
- convenient watering;
- water does not stagnate;
- no need for hilling;
- if you mulch, no weeding is needed;
- no need to dig, just loosen by 7 - 10 cm;
- early planting of vegetables is possible;
- easy to do crop rotation;
- when planting, there is no need to apply fertilizer to the hole;
- with smart use of organic matter there is no need for inorganic fertilizers;
- can be used forever.
The location of the beds relative to the cardinal points
Experts recommend drawing up a diagram of garden beds, taking into account the characteristics of the site, climatic factor and orientation to the cardinal points. Considering the latter, many often violate the standard arrangement along or across the site, replacing it with oblique or diagonal placement of the beds in relation to the sun. The unusualness and aesthetic imperfection of this arrangement is compensated by a number of advantages.
What does an accurate calculation provide?
Correct orientation of plantings contributes to:
- reducing the number of sick and underdeveloped plants;
- uniform lighting of crops;
- reducing the frequency of watering;
- increase in yield by 10-15%;
- reducing the ripening time of some crops by 3-5 days.
Orientation from north to south with predominantly cloudy days
In addition, some gardeners claim that vegetables grown in the correct planting direction store better.
Layout features for different regions
Thus, residents of the northern and central regions, where there is less sunlight and more cloudy days, as well as insufficient heat and excess moisture, are advised to orient their plantings from north to south. Plants planted in this way will not shade each other.
Vegetable gardens in the southern hot and dry regions need beds oriented from west to east. With such planting, crops shade the soil between the rows, which means it dries out less and, in addition, decreases Negative influence overheated soil. Farmers' experiences show that in conditions of insufficient rainfall, the yield of corn sown in this way was 20-25% higher than that grown in rows from north to south.
The location of the beds on the cardinal points is not always justified. The presence of strong constant winds in the region or the location of the site at an angle significantly corrects this scheme. Thus, the negative impact of dry winds on plants is compensated by planting across the direction of air flows. In this case, the plantings dry out less and retain more carbon dioxide, which promotes photosynthesis. Ridges on an uneven area are made only across the slope.
Mitlider layout diagram
Paths between beds
The width of the paths between the beds is described above (at least 90 cm), but it is important not only to correctly calculate the parameters of this zone, but also to arrange passages to exclude weeds. These can be either permanent paths or temporary decking. Such floorings not only prevent the growth of weeds, but also make the gardener’s work more convenient.
What to make garden paths from
What to put between the beds to prevent grass from growing:
- wide boards or flooring made of narrow boards, knocked down in one line for strength;
- fiberboard sheets;
- roofing felt;
- mulch from sawdust, hay, grass from the lawn. Important to remember, fresh sawdust oxidize the soil;
- embankment of pebbles, crushed stone, broken bricks– such paths between the beds are very decorative and decorate the landscape;
- old linoleum;
- carton boxes.
Tree cuts
If the location of the plantings does not change and the paths always remain in place, it makes sense to make permanent paths. The most reliable coverage There is concrete between the weed beds. Concrete passages can be monolithic, under fake diamond or under tiles.
You can also lay out the paths with tiles and not only concrete. Rubber tiles look very nice; in addition, they do not slip, which makes the summer resident’s movement safe.
Aisles decorated with tree cuts look impressive, but grass will still grow between the cuts if you do not follow the recommendations below.
Capital approach
How to prevent weeds from sprouting
This method is suitable for designing permanent passages, that is, for those who do not plan to change the location of the beds.
How to make paths between the beds to prevent weeds from growing:
- Having worked clear plan garden, mark the passages.
- Remove the top layer of soil in the aisles. If the beds are raised or have high borders, you don’t have to remove them.
- Lay cardboard, layers of paper, rags, black film for beds or geotextiles - a special material for grass.
- Cover with sand or sawdust.
- Make a hard coating on top that is resistant to erosion by rain, for example, cover it with pebbles or broken bricks.
Hill beds located taking into account a complex of factors
The result will be capital passages in which nothing will grow. In case of redevelopment, all this must be removed and the passages filled with fertile soil.
You don’t have to spend a lot of time figuring out how to place the beds on the site and how to cover the paths from weeds. Take into account the climatic conditions of the region, cardinal directions, soil and relief features, as well as the developments of famous farmers and, as a result, collect good harvests without unnecessary expenditure of force, energy and time for processing.
A. Vetrova, by e-mail
The height of the ridges depends on many factors: climatic conditions, location of the site, soil composition, type of structure of the ridges themselves, choice of crops for planting.
On damp, heavy, poorly heated clay soils It is better to grow any vegetable crops on ridges and ridges with a height of 25-40 cm. In light, but prone to waterlogging areas, a height of 15-20 cm will be sufficient. When constructing ridges on light soils, their edges are made flat, on heavy soils - steep.
High ridges are needed primarily for planting heat-loving and early-season vegetables, as well as for crops with root crops buried in the ground (carrots, root parsley, parsnips, daikon, etc.).
It is not advisable to plant cabbage or sorrel on them, although in small quantities this may be justified. In the risky farming zone, high ridges with reinforced edges, including stationary ones, are often made. The side walls of stationary beds are made of different materials(slate, metal sheets, brick, stone and concrete). The height of such a ridge is from 60 to 100 cm.
A layer of compost, branches, leaves, and grass is placed at the bottom, which, by overheating, heat the soil, making it possible in the northern regions to grow heat-loving crops, early sowing or planting seedlings. Heat-loving vegetables with a strong root system: pumpkins, work especially well in such beds. zucchini, cucumbers, melons, watermelons, as well as peppers, eggplants, tomatoes, beans.
One of the varieties of high ridge - mound bed. It is an earthen embankment up to 90 cm high with gentle edges.
To install it, in an area about 2 m wide and of arbitrary length, select soil to a depth of 20-25 cm, the bottom is lined with a thin metal mesh to protect against moles and small rodents.
Next, a mound 60 cm wide and 50-60 cm high is built in layers, placing branches, twigs, coarse stems in the center, and on top of them and on the sides smaller wood and plant waste, fallen leaves, immature compost, mixed with peat or humus.
All layers of the bed are moistened.
The structure is covered on top with a layer of fertile soil 20-30 cm high. Such a ridge can partly replace a greenhouse for heat-loving vegetables. In the first year, vegetables that consume large amounts of nitrogen (pumpkins, cucumbers, zucchini) are grown on the beds. Then the plantings are distributed in this way: large (including perennial) crops are planted in the center, and annual and low-growing crops are planted closer to the edge.
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To obtain a rich harvest, properly cultivated soil and caring for the crops play an important role. Therefore, you should know how to rationally and carefully arrange the beds in your summer cottage.
Before you start arranging the garden bed, you should decide and take into account such parameters as:
- form;
- size;
- location;
- layout.
In most cases, many gardeners build rectangular-shaped beds.
This is not a fundamental condition for growing a rich harvest. The beds can be anything: rectangular, square, round, trapezoidal, etc. The shape can be selected taking into account the features of the relief.
Unconventional forms of flower beds will allow rational use of the site area.
The size of the bed can vary depending on the individual desires of the owner and the landscape. It is important to observe certain conditions: they should not be too narrow, wide or deep.
The optimal width of the bed is 60-100 cm.
Considering these parameters, caring for vegetable crops will be easier. The length of the bed can be any. If the bed is located along the fence, then its height should not exceed 80 cm.
The distance between the beds should be 40-50 cm.
This size is quite enough to care for and collect vegetables.
It is better to place the beds on a summer cottage from south to north.
In this case, the soil warms up better and the crops grown receive the necessary amount of light. There are cases where it is located on a gentle slope. The optimal placement of the beds in this case is transverse to the slope.
If the site is uneven, then it is best to place the beds on the south side, and place garden plantings on the north side.
When planning beds, some features should be taken into account.
Box beds and terraces are the best option when designing beds on a site with a strong slope. It is better to place in the northern part of the garden tall plants so that they do not shade low vegetable crops.
All these features should be taken into account when constructing beds on a summer cottage.
Basic rules for creating beds
Once the shape, size and layout of the beds have been determined, you can begin to create them.
It is best to create beds on damp and clay soils, in lowlands, where water can linger after rain. Having decided on the length and width of the bed, you can begin arrangement.
When arranging a garden bed, loosen the soil with a hoe or chopper.
First you need to mark out the future beds. Then they should be dug up, processed and cleared of foreign debris. The soil can be treated with a solution copper sulfate. It will protect vegetable crops from various diseases. Soil using a hoe or chopper. If there are lumps, they should be broken up.
There are several types of beds:
- High bed. It is the most common among gardeners. Such a bed significantly improves the heating of the soil, which ensures high intensity of growing vegetables. To create such a bed, you need to make a frame. The width of such a bed is 150 cm, and the length can be different.
- Hilly bed. Its height is 80-90 cm, and its width is about 200 cm. To avoid the bed from spreading, it is necessary to make a small border along the edges.
- Beds according to the Mitlider method. Distinctive feature These beds have a wide path of about 90 cm and narrow beds no more than 45-50 cm in width. This method of arranging a bed ensures simplicity and ease of maintenance, as well as the absence of the need to dig up everything.
The first layer of the bed is branches and twigs, which must first be processed. Next, a layer of small wood debris is laid, then plant debris. After this, a layer of peat is laid out. The final top layer may consist of mature compost and fertile soil. All components should be taken in equal quantities.
It is necessary to dig up the soil along the entire length of the bed. Next, use a shovel to pour the soil into the center of the bed, and then make a depression of 10-15 cm. After this, you can begin installing the sides. They can be constructed from different materials: boards, slate, brick, etc.
The sides on the bed prevent it from spreading. In addition, such beds are easier to maintain.
Simple and affordable way making bed edges - wooden boards. Optimal thickness 4-5 cm. Before installation, it should be treated with an antiseptic to prevent rotting.
The wooden frame should be sheathed after installation plastic film. This avoids water leakage and soil washing out of the constructed frame. The height of the side should be selected individually. Here it is important to consider the depth of the side in the soil.
