That agricultural labor is difficult work, everyone knows. But in fact, proper site planning, use modern technologies And the latest techniques for arranging beds can make this activity much more enjoyable and, importantly, more effective.
A garden bed is a small area where certain plants are planted. The use of beds is not a prerequisite for obtaining a harvest; you can plant plants haphazardly and mixed up, and there are people who deliberately use just this option. This may sound strange, but in reality similar method requires much more effort and, most importantly, knowledge and experience in the field of agricultural technology, so novice gardeners are still strongly recommended to grow vegetables in beds: this makes it easier to care for them and plan crop rotation on the site (crop rotation).
Where and how the bed will be located, what shape and content it will have, ultimately determines not only the appearance of the site, but also the harvest that will be harvested from it. And this means that to arrange proper vegetable garden with your own hands means to make it easier for yourself further work on it, improve your mood and increase self-esteem.
Types and shapes of beds
There are many types of beds. They can be stationary and temporary, traditional (horizontal, narrow and wide) and more progressive (multi-tiered, warm, high, deep, fast, etc.). You need to choose the most suitable option for yourself depending on many factors - the size of the plot, the features of its location, the crops that you plan to plant in the garden and, of course, your own tastes and imagination.
The shape of the bed can also be whatever you want.– square, rectangular, trapezoidal, round, figured. Usage various variations and avoiding proper, “boring” plantings will help make the area brighter, more original, and also make more efficient use of the space allocated for the garden.
The main conditions that must be adhered to when deciding on the design of the bed can be defined as follows:
- it should be convenient to approach the plants in the garden;
- trampling on the bed should be kept to a minimum;
- the location of the bed should take into account the peculiarities of the climate and topography (for example, in low-lying areas it is better to raise the bed, and in a dry place, on the contrary, dig it deeper).
Horizontal
Let's start with traditional horizontal beds. Typically, summer residents approach their arrangement extremely simply: they divide the plot into rectangular or square fragments and plant their favorite vegetables in them. In reality, this option can hardly be called successful, since it does not allow fulfilling the first two of the above requirements. It is much more technologically advanced to use narrow beds (0.5 m wide, on which plants are planted in only two rows).
This simple arrangement allows the crop to be provided with individual care and, in addition, adequate lighting, which ultimately provides a fantastic jump in yield. No wonder This type of planting is called a “harvest bed.” The irrational use of land due to the wide row spacing required in this case is just an illusion, since one correctly located plant will surpass the impenetrable thickets planted in the traditional way in terms of productivity. But inside the bed itself, the crops are planted quite close to each other, this is one of the main secrets of the “harvest bed”.
Did you know? More than a hundred years ago, scientists noticed an amazing effect: dense planting of a plant with a wide distance between rows sharply increases fruiting: the plant tries to take over space from its neighbors and directs much more effort to the formation of fruits. Proper care of such a bed (and it is very convenient to provide it) and the introduction of the necessary fertilizers can increase the yield fourfold!
Narrow beds have worked well for planting strawberries, nightshades (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers), as well as cucumbers on vertical supports. In science, this method is called the Mittleider method; it has proven itself equally well for arranging beds in open ground, and in special boxes and greenhouses.
It is also convenient to equip narrow beds with sides, which will allow water and fertilizers to better linger around the plants and make it easier to approach the row.
In addition to the width of the rows, horizontal beds can also vary in relation to their level. In particular, in addition to the usual beds located level with the site, there are deep and raised beds.
As mentioned above, it is worth making deep (low) beds in the garden in those places that experience an acute lack of water. Also indicated is sandy, drying soil with a small amount of fertile layer. On such soil, water does not retain water well, and to prevent the soil from overheating, it is better to lower the bed a little.
On heavy clay soils, especially if they are constantly washed away groundwater In order to avoid stagnation of water and rotting of the root system of plants, it is advisable to use high beds - structures that rise several tens of centimeters above the level of the site. Such beds warm up a little faster in the spring and cool down later in the fall, but this difference is quite insignificant.
Important! High beds require especially careful monitoring of moisture retention in the ground; they need to be watered much more often, since they dry out very quickly. Therefore, such a design should really be used on swampy soil when it is caused by objective necessity.
The use of high and low beds only allows you to regulate the level of moisture in the soil; these types of beds do not have a direct impact on the design of the site and crop yields.
Another interesting type of horizontal bed is a warm bed. This term is usually used to describe the filling of an area allocated for a garden bed, which provides natural heating for the plant. The option is aimed at replacing a greenhouse in regions with very short summers. The idea is that before planting plants, manure or other organic matter is placed on the bed, which, when decomposed, begins to release heat and serves as a kind of heating pad for the roots. Warm beds are indispensable in case of unexpected frosts or sudden temperature changes, especially at the beginning of the season.
Vertical
A vertical garden bed is a very original and convenient, although quite labor-intensive to implement, way of organizing a garden in a country house. But if there is very little space for vegetables, this option can help solve the problem. An additional bonus for constructing a vertical bed is that the plants planted in it do not have direct contact with the ground on the site, and therefore do not experience harmful effects weeds and are less susceptible to fungal spores. In addition, it is much better to care for such a bed - you don’t have to bend over backwards, everything is convenient and accessible. Finally, with the help of such a bed you can effectively “close a hole in the wallpaper” - camouflage an old fence or a peeling barn wall.
It has a vertical bed and a number of disadvantages. First of all, the small volume of soil in which the plant is located quickly depletes and dries it out, so such beds need to be fertilized and watered more often. In addition, plants in such beds are much more difficult to endure cold winters, since the ground freezes more strongly in them.
Very often, strawberries are planted in vertical beds (you can even arrange them on your balcony), but this option is also suitable for greens, salads, cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini and other vegetables. They are simply planted in boxes with soil, and then the boxes are placed on pre-nailed shelves or hung from special supports.
You can build a vertical bed for strawberries with your own hands from scrap materials. To do this, you will need two plastic (for example, polyvinyl chloride) pipes of the same length, but different diameters. Narrow is designed for organization drip irrigation(you immediately need to drill a large number of holes in it with a drill), wide - for planting strawberries.
The bottom of one and the other pipe must first be sealed. Further, the principle is as follows: a narrow pipe is wrapped in burlap or agrofibre, tied with twine, after which it is inserted into a wide pipe, in which holes for strawberry seedlings with a diameter of about 5 cm are first made. Having positioned the smaller pipe exactly in the center, a layer of gravel is first poured into the thick pipe, and then - fertile soil mixed with foam balls or hydrogel for better ventilation and to avoid soil subsidence. Next, the structure is fixed (you can build several such pipes and attach them to each other in a “hut”). Strawberry seedlings are planted in the holes, then water is poured into the narrow tube. The vertical bed is ready!
For climbing crops, a vertical greenhouse can be built from metal barrels. With proper care, this method allows you to solve the problem of arranging supports for this type of crop - as they grow, they will hang down and entwine the barrel. Convenient and very impressive, because beautiful garden beds are the key good mood his masters!
Multi-tiered
Another option for beautiful beds that you can arrange at your dacha with your own hands is multi-tiered beds. Very convenient option from a space saving point of view. Such a bed is created according to the principle multi-storey building when on plot of land Several apartments are located above each other instead of one.
Arranging multi-tiered garden beds at the dacha is real creativity. First of all, you need to plan which cultures and in what order will “live” in your multi-storey building. You need to take into account the height of the plants, the characteristics of their growth and development, lighting requirements, fruiting period, etc. For example, it is not very convenient to place the most tall plants, since they simply will have nowhere to develop. It is also better for the most light-loving crops to leave the upper areas. Climbing plants, depending on your imagination, can be planted at the bottom, directing the stems up along supports specially provided for this, or, conversely, placed at the top, allowing them to fall down along the walls or other structural elements.
What to make multi-tiered beds from and what place on the site to use for their arrangement depends only on the owner’s imagination. For this purpose, ready-made or self-made stairs, frames knocked down from boards, or round structures made from plastic rings, bendable pipes and any other available material are suitable.
Designing garden beds at the dacha using multi-storey structures made by yourself has a number of undeniable advantages.
Firstly, this very ergonomic. Caring for such a bed does not involve a constantly bent back; you can feel comfortable, while it is convenient to approach the plant and do any work with it. necessary procedure(tie, pin and finally harvest).
Secondly, this economical. If you are limited in space, this method will allow you to grow in a minimum area. maximum quantity crops, and the free space can be used for arranging a recreation area or barbecue.
Thirdly, this effective from the point of view of agricultural technology. With proper planning of a multi-tiered bed, you can actually very successfully grow both sun-loving and shade-tolerant crops on the same piece of land, and both will give an excellent harvest.
And finally, fourthly, this very beautiful and original. Multi-colored vegetables and fruits and aromatic herbs, arranged in a bright ensemble in the form of a living pyramid, are an absolute reason to invite neighbors and friends to visit, who will certainly appreciate your resourcefulness and creative approach.
Multi-tiered beds are also a great way to create an original and very beautiful flower garden. The principle is the same - shade-resistant flowers are planted at the bottom, and more light-loving and climbing flowers are located on the upper tiers.
How to choose the right place for a garden bed
When deciding on the type and shape of the garden bed, we must not forget that it is equally important to choose the right place for its arrangement.
The first thing you need to pay attention to is the illumination of the area. The garden bed should not be placed in the shade. The sun should illuminate it for at least eight hours a day. This - general rule. But there are nuances depending on what crops you are going to plant, since different plants have different demands on sunlight. It's also best to have your garden bed receive maximum light in the morning, get some shade during the day, and return to full sun in the evening. From this point of view, it is necessary to place the beds away from tall trees, buildings and hedges that cast a lot of shadow.
Important! The most favorable light for photosynthesis is morning light, when the sun does not burn, but gently caresses the green leaves. Evening rays are not as effective on plants, and midday heat can cause a lot of damage.
If you decide to arrange a multi-tiered bed, the amount of sunlight and the need for certain crops in it should be taken into account all the more.
The second point is the relief. It is better that the bed is level so that water is retained in it evenly. Low-lying places and hills should be avoided if possible, since in the first case the water will drown the roots, in the second the plants will dry out. Although this problem can be dealt with by arranging high or deep beds, as mentioned above. However, the presence of a slope is a reason to choose another place or level the area by adding required quantity land. You can also build terraces with vertical beds on an uneven area, then the soil will not be washed away after each rain and watering. The last option is to plant the plant across the slope.
If the area is uneven, Place the bed on the south side. It has been noted that in this case, the unsuccessful terrain can be compensated for by greater solar activity, and the crop will ripen much faster. The northern uneven slope is the most bad place for the garden bed.
Now about location of the beds. It is generally accepted that beds should be arranged from north to south. But that's the rule general, and it doesn’t always work. So, for low-growing crops and a flat area, you should really stick to this direction of the beds. But tall plants It is better to plant from west to east, this will ensure the most uniform illumination of each bush.
ABOUT the shape of the beds we already talked. The place must be chosen so that between the rows you can leave a wide (at least 0.5 m) space - a path along which you will walk while caring for the plants. This place can be safely compacted (and even covered with gravel or seeded with grass) so as not to stir up dirt after rain or heavy watering. The length of the bed depends on the characteristics of your site, but it is better that it is the same for all rows - it is more convenient to care for the plants.
A few tips for choosing a place for beds depending on the crops that you plan to grow on them:
- to save space with radishes, lettuce and dill, you can compact beds with other crops (for example, cabbage), instead of allocating a separate place for them;
- It is recommended to use root vegetables as a frame for planting vegetables; it is also good to use climbing plants, such as legumes, as a border. If you plant them north of the main crop, they will not shade it;
- Zucchini, melons, watermelons and pumpkins should be planted separately from other vegetables as they require a lot of space and can overwhelm neighbors.
In general it can be said that proper arrangement of garden beds will allow you to literally grow a crop with your own hands on one hundred square meters of land, which will fully provide the whole family with fresh vegetables and allow you to create impressive reserves of vitamins for the winter. How to make a garden bed with your own hands
How to improve the beds with your own hands depends on what kind of bed you have chosen. If we are not talking about a primitive horizontal bed, but about a more complex and progressive design, there are two main options:
- purchase ready-made garden beds, which all you have to do is assemble and install;
- make your own design.
What you need to create a garden bed, tools and materials
As a basis for creating various progressive structures, you can use anything - plastic, tiles, straw, wood, pipes, ready-made boxes or barrels, slate, roofing shingles, etc. Any chosen material has its own advantages and disadvantages that must be taken into account, before you make a choice.
Important! When arranging a bed for vegetables and fruits, be sure to use materials that do not emit harmful substances. For example, car tires, cinder blocks, slate, as well as those treated with non-food dyes and varnishes wooden parts It is better to use it for equipping flower beds, but not for planting plants used for food. In extreme cases, it is permissible to use such materials by first wrapping them in a special film intended for garden work.
So, to arrange a garden bed you can use:
Besides finishing material, you will need fertile soil, crushed stone for drainage, sand, mulch, as well as tools, the set of which depends on the type of structure ( bayonet shovel, building level, tape measure, hammer, trowel, brush, drill, screws, welding machine, etc.). To decorate and create supports for climbing plants, it is also worth stocking up on cord, twine or other garters. How to build a garden bed with your own hands, step-by-step guide
Let's take a closer look at the technology for arranging a high, multi-tiered, quick and warm bed.
Raised (high)bed It is made from boards at the dacha as follows.
To arrange the bottom row, first of all, along the perimeter of the bed, you need to remove the turf in a width corresponding to the size of the board. We clear the site itself from debris and weeds. Next, boards are laid out on the prepared strips, and it is very important that the entire structure is on the same level (if necessary, you need to place an additional board in the “sagging” areas or, conversely, remove a little earth in the highest places). Using a rubber hammer, the boards are knocked close to each other so that there are no gaps between them. Then the structure is fastened with self-tapping screws.
Then we build up the structure with several rows of boards. It is better to fasten subsequent rows with an overlap, so the structure will be more stable.
A layer of agrofibre or metal mesh is first laid at the bottom of the resulting space. This will protect future planting from weeds and rodents, and will also protect it from pests and fungal diseases. To protect the soil from washing out, you can lay a layer of ordinary cardboard on top of the mesh and only then fill in the drainage. If there is no screening or crushed stone, broken brick or other suitable material can be used.
Important! Do not place film on the bottom of the bed. In this case, the soil may become overheated and, in addition, the lack of access to the soil for earthworms and other microorganisms necessary for the normal functioning of the plant will negatively affect the harvest.
It's time to fill the garden bed with fertile soil. If it is not possible to buy a ready-made mixture in a store, you can use the soil from the site, thoroughly cleaning it of roots and weeds and, if possible, mixing it with peat or compost. The sides of the bed should be 3-4 cm above the soil layer. After planting the seedlings, it is recommended to mulch the soil, this will protect it from freezing and drying out.
The bed is ready, all that remains is to take care of the irrigation system and, if desired, organize a paved area around the structure.
Such a bed can be arranged not only on open ground, but also on a concrete platform. In fact, this option is even simpler, since it does not involve the need to get rid of turf and weeds, and, in addition, you already have the blind area around the bed ready!
Did you know? It is not recommended to treat wood for arranging a bed with antiseptics for environmental reasons, therefore, to increase the service life of such a structure, it is better to use rot-resistant tree varieties, for example, oak.
Using the described principle, a high bed can be made from any other available materials.
Now let's look at how to do it multi-tieredbed from boards with your own hands. Here the task is more complex, in particular, much more time needs to be devoted to correct marking, clearly defining the boundaries of each tier in order to correctly plan their width (here it is necessary to take into account the varieties of plants being planted, since each of them requires a certain amount of personal space for normal development).
We first protect the lower, largest tier with mesh and cardboard; subsequent ones can be done without taking such precautions.
We fill the beds taking into account the needs of their future inhabitants regarding the composition of the soil.
On top floor In a multi-level bed, you can arrange picturesque structures from wicker branches or bamboo sticks, which will be used as support for climbing crops planted on this tier.
Arrangement quick straw beds– an excellent option for an uncultivated area overgrown with weeds.
The area allocated for the garden bed is covered with cardboard (it is recommended to secure it with pins so as not to be blown away by the wind), we lay a layer of straw on top (at least 30 cm) and plant our seedlings, making cross-shaped cuts in the cardboard with a knife. It is good if you place manure, compost or other organic matter under a layer of cardboard.
Such a bed prevents the development of weeds (they cannot break through the thick layer of paper) and does not allow the soil to dry out.
Quick straw bed- a great way to grow potatoes.
And finally warm bed. It can be done in three ways - on uncultivated ground, in a box or in a trench. In the first option, the place chosen for the garden bed is fenced with boards, and a layer of wood chips is laid out on the slightly trampled grass inside (you can use waste from winter pruning of trees). The branches are covered with three layers of paper (cardboard freed from tape, newspapers, packaging material etc.). Next, the “warmer” itself is placed: humus, compost or manure with a layer of at least 10 cm. It must be covered with dry grass and left until next spring, watering regularly during the summer. When the time comes, pour a layer of soil mixed with humus (another 10 cm) on top of the grass and plant the seedlings.
Similarly, a warm bed can be arranged in a pre-prepared wooden box, the height of its sides should be at least 30 cm.
The service life of such warm beds is not limited to one year, but “biofuel” does not work for more than three seasons. But there is a way to create a self-heating vegetable garden that can last up to ten years. The task, however, is quite labor-intensive, but it is worth it.
In the space allocated for the garden bed, a trench is dug for at least two spade bayonets. Placed on the bottom wood material: Larger in the center and smaller at the edges. If the soil is clayey, you first need to pour a layer of sand into the trench, and in particularly cold regions, lay empty plastic bottles to create air lock. The turf is laid on top with the roots up, then installed wooden box, filled 2/3 with dry grass and paper. Top layer– soil mixed with manure or compost in a 1:1 ratio. Such a bed must stand for at least a year before crops are planted in it.
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A dacha is not only a place to relax from the bustle of the city, but also a good opportunity to grow some of your own organic vegetables and berries. Some grow a little exclusively for the table, others grow a little more for winter storage. However, often striving for a high yield, we forget that the beds are not a second job, but a place of rest. Therefore, in order for growing vegetables and berries to truly bring pleasure, the garden beds at the dacha must not only be productive, but also comfortable and beautiful. Moreover, you can make such beds with your own hands from almost any materials.
When describing how to make beds at the dacha with your own hands, beds are often divided into types according to the material from which they are made. However, this approach does not reflect the functional and aesthetic capabilities of the beds. Therefore, it is more correct to start laying out the beds by determining their shape and location on the site. In this way you can create a convenient and beautiful vegetable garden, which can fit into a plot of any size.
Shape and location of beds on the site
For a small plot, it is good to organize beds in the corner of the plot. The beds will look great if you divide them according to a beam or radial pattern.
Fig.1.
Fig.2.
If the site has large sizes, then the beds can be laid out along the central path. Here you can make a circular or rectangular garden shape. Planting plants various colors eg salads different varieties, cabbage, pumpkin, garden beds will look no worse than a flower bed.
Fig.3.
However, making a composition from various types vegetables, you should take into account the principle of their compatibility and be guided by the table below. Otherwise, it is unlikely that you will be able to get a high yield from the beds.
Fig.4.
Bed sizes
Returning to the beds, it should be said that the most important parameters of the beds are their height and width. Geometric dimensions provide beds direct influence on productivity, ease of plant care, protection of plants from freezing, ease of arrangement of beds and their appearance.
Width of beds
The width of the bed can be arbitrary, but is usually 80-90 cm. This width is enough for two or three rows of plants. A bed up to 90 cm wide will allow you to easily reach the center from any side. However, if the beds are located close to the fence, then it is advisable to make them no more than 50 cm wide. This will make caring for the plants much easier.
Height of beds
The height of the bed is also very important. Unlike the width of the bed, the height is a little more complicated. The fact is that in high beds there is a risk of freezing perennial plants significantly higher than at low levels. This is due to the fact that the layer of snow that protects against freezing is always greater in a bed located at ground level, and snow falls earlier. In high beds the opposite is true. Therefore, it is advisable to make high beds for annual plants, and for perennials it will be limited to a bed no more than 15 cm high.
Fig.5.
Raised beds are very convenient for growing annual plants. The main convenience is that you don’t have to bend down to the ground every time you need to pull out a weed or remove a stepchild. In a high bed, water will not stagnate and the soil will not become very compacted, and therefore there is no need for annual digging, but only loosening is sufficient. Having a high bed makes it much easier to organize a warm bed, which will allow you to harvest an early harvest. However, the height of the beds should not be more than 60 cm; an exception can be made only for growing low-growing plants, for example, lettuce, onions, parsley, etc.
Fig.6.
Warm beds
Having mentioned warm beds, a few words should be said about their structure. A warm bed consists of several layers. The bottom layer is thick branches, cardboard and other organic debris with a low decomposition rate. The middle layer is foliage, tops, hay, straw, etc. garden waste with an average rate of decomposition. The top layer is compost and soil. The thickness of each layer is approximately 20 cm. The lower two layers gradually rot and release heat. Therefore, the bed thaws much faster after winter and seedlings can be planted in it earlier. This is how an early harvest is achieved.
Fig.7.
Of course, a warm bed can be made without being high. However, in this case, instead of simply laying the above-described layers in a box (fencing the bed), you will first have to dig a small ditch, which will significantly complicate the work of constructing a warm bed. Plus, a high bed will provide good drainage, which is especially important when high level groundwater.
How and from what to make paths between the beds
When laying out beds and planning a vegetable garden, do not forget about the paths between the beds. Paths are not only a transport artery, but also a decoration for the garden. Good paths will create a feeling of neatness and harmony.
Paths between the beds can be made in various ways. Paths are often made from paving slabs, crushed stone or simply planted lawn grass. Functionally, all types of paths are not much different, so here, first of all, you should be guided by your aesthetic preferences.
Fig.8.
Fig.9.
Having considered possible options for location on the site, shapes, types of beds and their sizes, we can move on to the question of choosing material for garden beds in the country. The following materials are most widely used when constructing beds: wooden boards, brick or stone, slate and ready-made structures made of plastic and galvanized steel.
Materials for making beds
Board beds
Wooden boards for making beds are a favorite material. Making beds from boards is very simple and does not require any preparation or special tool. All you need is a nail saw and a hammer. Of course, the disadvantage of wood is its high tendency to rot, but this problem can be solved quite simply if the wood for making beds is pre-treated with an antiseptic. Thus, the bed can last 5, 10, or 15 years. If you choose oak or larch boards for the beds, then such a bed can last longer.
Beds from wooden boards can be made not only in rectangular shapes, but also in any other shape. If the bed has the shape of a rectangle, triangle or any other shape with corners, then you can make a bed by simply knocking the boards together with nails, with the boards positioned horizontally.
Fig. 10.
The required height of the bed is ensured by installing several tiers of boards.
Fig. 11.
If you need to make a garden bed round shape, then you can go in two ways: assemble a bed from short pieces of boards, placing them in a circle or installing the boards vertically. In both cases, the boards are connected in the same way using nails or self-tapping screws. Combinations of these methods are also possible.
Fig. 12.
If you have any doubts about the reliability of protecting wooden beds from rotting using modern antiseptic preparations on water based, then we can apply traditional ways: treat the wood with hot drying oil or lay roofing material with inside beds.
Brick and stone beds
Brick and natural stone are no less popular than wooden boards. Moreover, the service life of such beds is not limited. If the bed is of low height, then the brick as a fence for the bed is installed vertically or at an angle, and no additional preparation is required. In this way you can make a bed of any shape.
Fig. 13.
Raised beds made of brick are somewhat more difficult to make. In order to make a high bed of brick or stone, a foundation is needed. As a foundation, a concrete strip with a cross section of approximately 20x20 cm is poured onto sand cushion 20 - 30 cm thick. It is advisable to reinforce the tape with a steel rod. It turns out strip foundation shallow depth. Brick or stone is laid on the finished foundation.
Fig. 14.
When making high beds from brick, you should firmly decide on their shape and location on the site. High beds made of brick are a fundamental structure and it will be very difficult to move them after construction.
Slate beds
For most summer residents, the favorite material for building beds is slate. Indeed, slate is often available in abundance at the dacha, especially after the roof has been replaced. Naturally not to use this material is simply impossible, especially considering the fact that slate is durable, not afraid of moisture, and it is very easy to make one out of it simple design like beds.
Slate beds can be made of any shape and size. If corrugated roofing slate is used, it is cut into pieces and dug into the ground vertically to a depth of 20 - 30 cm. When positioned vertically, the slate is more durable due to the presence of waves. For rectangular beds, slate can be used in any size. Round slate beds are made from small pieces.
Fig. 15.
You can purchase sheets especially for garden beds. flat slate. When constructing beds, slate of this type is fastened together using metal corners. For structural rigidity with high beds, an additional corner is installed along the bed in increments of 1 - 1.5 m.
Fig. 16.
How to cut slate? When constructing beds, slate will have to be used various sizes. Cutting slate is very simple using a grinder with a stone wheel or a diamond wheel. There will be a lot of dust when cutting slate, so be sure to wear a protective mask and safety glasses.
Ready-made bed structures
Ready-made structures for fencing beds are no less popular. Two types are widespread: plastic and galvanized sheets. Plastic fencing for garden beds allows you to make it of any shape and size. Metal ones allow you to quickly make beds of any height.
Fig. 17.
Of course from the ready metal structures It is difficult to make a rounded bed, but simplicity and reliability are often paramount.
Fig. 18.
Fig. 19.
We considered all possible options for shapes and arrangement of bed materials. The solutions described are the simplest and will make your beds comfortable and beautiful. However, just as there is no limit to perfection, there is no finite number possible options execution of beds. Don't be afraid to experiment and use non-standard approaches, so your garden will be the best!
Probably every summer resident has encountered the problem of developing “virgin” lands. We purchased a very neglected plot of land and therefore “virgin land”, where wheatgrass grew wildly, was everywhere. In the first year I really wanted to grow something. But digging up and selecting weeds from all the beds at once was simply an impossible task.
I still dug up several beds by hand (the walk-behind tractor was useless here) and “sat” on them for a long time. But she was able to sow radishes, carrots and beets on them. And then I came across Nikolai Kurdyumov’s wonderful book “Smart Vegetable Garden in Details.” I really liked the idea of doing it new bed without digging. And I decided to try.
First way
So, I'll start in order:
1) I chose a place and marked the position with pegs. I decided to make a narrow bed 50 cm wide, stretched from North to South.
2) My husband made a box to size from available materials.
3) Inside the box, you can put manure or compost (whatever you have) directly on the grass. I “inherited” from the previous owners of the dacha a pile of overgrown humus. So I took the humus and coarse unrotted remains from there.
5) Again, humus (you can compost) was poured on top of the cardboard in a layer of about 10-15 cm. And on top, the author recommends straw as mulch (but I didn’t have it).
6) Next, the whole “this thing” was well poured with a solution of the EM preparation at a concentration of 1:1000, i.e. 1 tbsp. l. per bucket of water plus 1 tbsp. l. old jam without berries. I let it sit for several hours for the microorganisms to adapt.
7) I left the bed like this for about two weeks before planting the seedlings.
8) Then I planted tomato seedlings there in two rows in a checkerboard pattern. I made a hole down to the cardboard, poked a hole in the cardboard with a scoop (the cardboard had already softened from moisture by this time) and dug a small hole in the turf so as to plant a seedling. Of course, I watered the hole abundantly and planted the young plants.
9) In the summer, I piled weeded weeds and mown grass on top of the ground. So in the first summer I made two such beds and grew a good crop of tomatoes.
Second way
Again, we choose a place, fence it off, dig holes right in the turf, select grass, add humus or compost there, plant seedlings (tomatoes, cucumbers, flowers, pumpkins, etc.), water them. Our plants grow, and the grass around them grows even faster.
When the grass has grown, but has not yet killed the seedlings, we trample it, water it, cover it with paper (several layers of newspaper) and cover it with a thick layer of cut grass or humus (whatever is available). Then all summer, when it is possible, we add grass, food waste can be added (since the grass settles). You need to water once a week, but generously. There is little weeding required. Weeds are only emerging here and there from under the thick layer of mulch.
Thus, within a year, the “virgin land” is freed from weeds, even wheatgrass disappears. There is nothing left of paper and cardboard by autumn.
All summer, once every two weeks I watered the beds with a solution of the EM preparation (I mentioned this above). Divorced in the garden beds earthworms in huge quantities. And of course they worked all summer, loosening and improving the soil.
The next year in the spring I loosened the soil with a pitchfork. This is no longer virgin soil, and it makes me happy! But still, at the depth of a spade bayonet, the soil was not yet loose enough, so I planted tomatoes again and added EM compost in the fall and spring.
But in the third year (in the spring I again added EM compost) I loosened it with a pitchfork and sowed carrots.
If you wish, try to make such “smart” beds. I don't think it's difficult!
Wooden bed and greenhouse - two in one
An interesting idea for a greenhouse on a wooden bed, but it seems to me that it would be more convenient to open it back rather than to the side. The frame turns out to be too high and the likelihood of damage to it by the wind increases significantly.
The idea of beds with sides
An interesting idea for a garden bed with horizontal sides on which you can, for example, place some kind of vessel, watering can, etc. A convenient utilitarian device that will help with housework.
U-Shaped Raised Bed Idea
A functional and convenient idea for a garden bed for growing herbs or vegetables. The format allows you to easily reach any part of the ridge. The central part allows you to service the entire perimeter in one pass.
At all, main advantages of narrow beds are discussed in detail in the following infographic. Let's study them and take note.
U-shaped idea wooden bed with a mesh fence
If there are living creatures on your site that can eat your plantings. for example, goats or rabbits, then a net will help protect the bed. By the way, even chickens often misbehave in the garden, so protection in in this case important for preserving the harvest.
How to make removable fences in the garden
The next idea continues the development of the idea of protecting the garden bed from the invasion of pets. An example of creating a removable mesh fence.
Wooden bed with trellis
Growing cucumbers may require a trellis on which the plants can climb. By adding a vertical plane to the bed, you will ensure the convenience of harvesting the future harvest. Climbing flowers can be planted in a similar way.
Quick bed made of hollow blocks
Sometimes you may need to quickly build a flower bed, in which case this idea will be most relevant. Using blocks, you can create a beautiful bed for your flower garden in just half an hour.
Arch made of reinforcing mesh and wooden trays
An interesting idea for creating a pergola arch from thin reinforcing mesh. The basis of the design is wooden trays, into which earth is poured. In such a bed you can grow climbing plants, such as cucumbers, grapes, or flowers.
Ceramic tube bed
An original bed made of ceramic tubes covered with soil. Such a bed can be laid out even on a paved area for one season, and then dismantled if circumstances so require.
The idea of creating a wooden bed - a greenhouse
This idea is good because your wooden frame will have cells for mounting arcs, on which you can throw agrofibre at night or during frosts.
Traditional wooden beds
If you make small beds, it will be easier to control the growth and development of crops.
Decorative raised beds on legs
You can also protect your plantings from rabbits and chickens by raising the beds on legs, although, of course, this is more labor-intensive. Rather, these containers can be used to plant flowers in them, in the background of your composition.
One more nice idea The beds are not like everyone else’s - they are still the same U-shaped, universal and practical.
Cell bed
Several ideas for spiral flower beds
In addition to flowers, in such flower beds you can grow ornamental vegetables, as well as herbs for the kitchen and for beauty.
Square beds with mesh
For small ones ornamental gardens The idea of square box beds with nets for vertical plant growth will come in handy.
Beds with an arch for climbing plants
If your plans include growing grapes, then such beds will come in handy; using trays and thin fittings, you can create a entwined green arch in a few seasons.
Ideas for beds made from vines
Wicker beds will be a wonderful decoration for your vegetable garden or flower garden. The photo shows the sequence of adding layers of organic matter to provide the bed with nutrients.
Garden bed with moisture-retaining wall
An original idea for a garden bed with a wall that retains moisture. The photo shows a coconut fiber base.
Composition of raised beds
Using wooden beds, create an original geometric composition on your site.
Natural bed made of briquetted grass
This idea is good because the plants in such a bed will also receive minerals from the grass, which will gradually release nutrients into the soil.
Beautiful bed made of facing stone
Of course, such a garden bed will cost a fair amount, but it’s definitely not like everyone else’s! In principle, the idea is good for a flower bed.
Stylish wooden bed made of timber
The idea of a bed made of timber impressed me so much that I decided to inspire my husband to create the same one next year. summer season. A very original idea!
Galvanized metal beds
Modern and durable designs beds made of galvanized metal.
Mini beds made from wine boxes
As small beds, you can use a variety of boxes from under some goods, in the photo - wine boxes.
Beds from wooden frame and metal
Such a bed will last much longer than a simple wooden one, since the walls of the structure are made of metal. If you make a bed so that the soil does not touch the tree, it will last for ten years.
Prefabricated bed made of planks
The magic of this type of prefabricated garden bed is that you can pre-prepare the planks using a template, and then, once on site, simply assemble them in a matter of minutes. Additionally, the photo shows the possibility of creating an automatic watering system.
Improved F-shaped bed shape
Remember the U-shaped beds at the beginning of this collection? So, the next idea is based on a similar F-shaped principle, where another small bed is additionally provided in the center of the structure.
Bed tray made from half barrels
To be honest, it’s not entirely clear why cut the good ones plastic barrels and use them as trays? I would put these containers under water for irrigation. But the owner is a gentleman... The idea is dubious, it seems to me...
Metal beds
But this idea seems to me very, very promising, as I already said, galvanized metal can last a long time. In principle, you can sheathe the inside of any wooden bed with sheet metal, thereby significantly increasing its service life.
Garden bed with stands
An original idea for a wooden bed with stands for pots, watering cans or gardening tools.
Idea for painting wooden beds
Having painted your beds in bright colors you will not only add positivity to your garden, but also add originality to the everyday.
The idea of a garden bed - a greenhouse made of four boards
Notice the white substance that has been added to the peat and humus in the garden bed. This is agroperlite - a material that can absorb up to 400% of moisture, which means it provides the garden bed with water, gradually releasing it to the roots of the plants. Plus, perlite promotes aeration of the bed, prevents soil caking and the formation of crusts on its surface.
