Regular beds. Ideas for garden beds in the country

Few people know, but garden beds are needed precisely to greatly facilitate and improve the life of cultivated plants. This is done by changing the topography of the soil. It is loosened, dug up, in a word, cultivated, while giving the land an aesthetic appearance. To make the plants feel comfortable and not interfere with each other’s growth, and also to make them easier to care for, the land is cultivated in rows. The root systems of plants, if they are located at a decent distance from each other, will not “jam” their neighbors, and you can easily walk between the cultivated rows and take care of the plantings. Such rows are called beds.

The most common bed size is from 70 cm to 1.1 m. If the bed has paths on both sides, you can easily reach the plants from either side. But this standard is not applicable for all cultivated plants and not for all vegetable gardens. If this is a country garden and the gardener is short on land, then the size of the beds can be made smaller. In general, ideas for garden beds are a separate topic for discussion, but if the garden plot is not too small, then the usual average standards are quite suitable for the garden.

The distances between the rows of the beds can also be different, but 40 cm is acceptable. In such a space it will be more convenient to cultivate the soil near the crops, care for them, and also walk between the rows of plants, for example, with a bucket or with some garden tools, without fear of damaging the tops. The length of the beds can be of any size.

Main types of beds

The most common types of vegetable garden beds are listed below. The specified dimensions are not critical; you can change them in accordance with the characteristics of the site, but in general, it is advisable to adhere to them.

Types of beds depending on size:

Traditional beds have dimensions up to 2 m wide and up to 12 m long with a path width of 40 cm.
Large beds can occupy over 12 square meters in area. In such beds, unpretentious crops are planted that will not have to be weeded frequently in the future.
Hilly beds are sometimes made up to a meter high, but the length is chosen by the gardener himself. These are very unusual beds, and you will have to work hard to make them correctly with your own hands. To do this you will need to remove the fertile upper layer garden soil, place boards, brushwood or chipboard cuttings there, then fill them with fertile soil. Once the bed is ready, a small ditch is dug in the middle to retain water. This way the bed will be recharged with moisture. Hilly beds are perfect for growing vegetables. Only the tallest crops should be planted in the center, and shorter ones at the edges, so that all plants receive sunlight equally. It is up to the gardener to decide how to arrange the beds of such a formation. The rows of mounded beds are quite rare and, in any orientation, will be well illuminated by the sun's rays.
More often they are located in places well accessible to the sun and protected from the wind. Their length may vary, but their width is usually no more than one and a half meters. To create it, the top layer of soil is removed, all kinds of construction waste is laid along the length of the bed (boards, pieces of fiberboard and bars are suitable), and covered with grass and tree leaves. Next, pour a layer of soil at least 30-35 cm high on top of all this. After this, the bed is ready.
Narrow garden beds are suitable both in greenhouses and in simple garden plots. And so that the plants do not get sick, and gardeners cannot injure the roots of crops when walking along the beds, they are usually fenced with special boards or slate so that the beds are much higher than the level of the main garden. If used to build frames for such beds durable material, then you can end up with eternal beds that will serve their owner with benefit year after year. Just know that it is best to plant different crops in these beds every year.

Advantages of Rozuma beds

If the land for the future vegetable garden has not been looked after for a long time, or if it has not been cultivated at all before, it is better to use Rozum’s beds on such land. You should know that planting and caring for intensive Rosum beds will not require much expense or effort, but the final effect will undoubtedly satisfy any gardener. The point of Rozumov’s beds is that even in poor lighting and low temperatures achieve excellent yields.

Strawberry bed by V. Rozum

This is achieved mainly with the help of a special arrangement of such a bed. Organic components are placed in the center of the bed at a width of 45-55 cm. The beds in which the plants will be planted are made on both sides of the center and have a width of 30 to 35 cm; on the sides of such double beds there are paths.

Beds for a greenhouse

Many people will wonder how to make beds in a greenhouse to get good harvest. The beds in greenhouses should be located much more compactly. This is done in order to make maximum use of the greenhouse area. Therefore, each bed should not be more than 75 cm if it is cultivated on one side, and have a width of no more than 110 cm if cultivated on both sides. The minimum passage width is 35 cm.

It is best if the greenhouse beds are oriented in rows along the north-south line.

This way, plants drawn to sunlight will protrude less onto the path between the beds, and the plants will receive approximately equal portions of daylight. This fact should also be used as a guide by those who are wondering how to properly place beds in a vegetable garden; a similar arrangement of beds in relation to the sun is acceptable for all types of garden plots and summer cottages.

Wooden frames for planting

A plot or garden will look best if it is landscaped with wooden beds. Firstly, in this way, gardeners prevent their plants from spreading over the entire territory of the garden, and, secondly, this allows the beds to constantly remain in shape, even despite the effects of precipitation. A few words about how to beautifully design garden beds in your country house or garden. You don’t need to think long about what you can make beds from with your own hands, just look around.

Most likely, for many, along the edges of the garden, backyard or a summer cottage, boards or slate stored just in case have accumulated. All this may well be suitable for building frames for beds. Slate is even better suited for such purposes than regular boards. You can read more about how to arrange beds using this material in the article. Slate will last much longer, but you will also have to tinker with it much longer. But more often, gardeners prefer wooden garden beds because this material is the most common and relatively cheap.

In addition, constructing wooden beds with your own hands is quite easy. And if, when assembling the frames, a garden board for Master Garden beds or similar high-quality boards made specifically for such purposes were used, then such beds can later be easily disassembled. For example, for redevelopment of a vegetable garden or for any other reasons.

If you use sets of boards purchased in stores and specially designed for these purposes to assemble bed frames, then with the help of special fasteners you can assemble beds of any configuration, using this set as a children's construction set. But how to make beautiful beds in the garden when you can only use simple boards?

To do this, remember that any board can dry out over time. Therefore, you should not make beds from simple boards too long. And even if they turn out to be relatively short, you should still strengthen the resulting structure every half meter by driving pegs into the ground, for example, sawn from rebar. Subsequently, when filling the beds with soil, they will not allow the structure to move apart.

It is best to fasten the corners of wooden structures with corners specially purchased for such purposes in stores, or with tin cut into small strips and self-tapping screws.

It is up to the owners of the plots to decide how to arrange the beds in the garden. Some people prefer to arrange them in a herringbone pattern, while others prefer a strict style - parallel bed after bed. Some aesthetes like to arrange the beds in ovals or semicircles, but such solutions usually require quite large space and they are not suitable for everyone. And many even prefer to create multi-level beds in their garden.

Multi-level beds

Such beds represent a whole cascade of single-level (regular) beds. It may seem that creating multi-level beds with your own hands is quite difficult. But that's not true. Here, for example, is how to make a bed for strawberries that will look like a cascade. The first level is created. A square frame is made for a bed with dimensions of 5x5 m and a height of 20 cm. A frame is mounted inside it, the sides of which will be narrower than the previous one by two widths of the bed.

For the most part, strawberry beds are small in width - 20-25 cm. This means that each subsequent frame will be 40-50 cm narrower than the previous one and higher than it by, again, the height of the bed - 20 cm. Then, after filling the frame with black soil, it turns out excellent and a completely aesthetic cascade of square beds. Cascades can be made not only in a square style. This style is shown here only because of the comparative ease of its construction.

Hanging beds for strawberries

And some gardeners make hanging strawberry beds for their garden, which look very attractive. Making them is also quite simple. To do this, assemble a strong frame for the bed made of wood, only this time with a strong bottom, in which small holes are drilled for ventilation. Plastic pipes are also well suited for the frame. If you cut them in half lengthwise, you will get two frames for a strawberry hanging bed.

Next, holes are made on the sides for a cable, rope or fishing line, depending on what this hanging bed will be supported on. Then the frame is hung between trees, pillars or walls, in a word, where, in the gardener’s opinion, it would be most acceptable and aesthetic to place such a bed. After this, the frame is filled with soil, strawberries are planted in it and the hanging bed is ready. But it is worth paying attention that it is better not to place such beds in places where it is blowing. strong wind. He can swing and turn over the bed.

If a gardener or gardener has enough free time, he can turn his vegetable garden, garden or summer cottage into a truly wonderful corner that can not only feed its owner, but throughout the entire warm period will delight the eye, both him and those passing by. or people passing by. In such a place you can not only enjoy fresh fruit, but also have a pleasant rest. You can read how to organize space and arrange garden beds at your dacha.
Country geography: how to properly place beds.
How to properly place beds and fruit trees on your site
The harvest has long been harvested, and it is snowing outside the window. It would seem that it’s time to take a break from dacha troubles, but the thoughts of many gardeners are already devoted to the future summer season: what and where to plant, what fertilizers and seeds to buy, how much and what kind of film is needed for greenhouses and greenhouses...
And there seems to be nothing complicated here - just place potatoes, cabbage, carrots, beets, onions and garlic, green crops on your acres, because everything else: trees, shrubs, raspberries and strawberries have long had their rightful places.
But in practice, everything turns out to be more complicated - you have to compare a lot of different factors in order to accept, sometimes, only one single correct solution. Moreover, for this it is not enough to know which crops are light-loving and which are shade-tolerant - you also need to take into account the fertility of a particular area, which crops grew here in the past, and preferably, not only in the past year, and which crops will grow nearby peacefully and without conflicts.
Therefore, truly passionate gardeners and gardeners have to plan and record their gardens no less painstakingly than accountants do their reporting. For example, my grandfather had a huge ledger with detailed plans for his garden over several decades, starting in the 50s. In fact, information for so many years is not needed - in most cases it is enough to have data for 3-4 years, but here the grandfather’s truly accounting nature affected.
Everything is simpler for me, fortunately I have a computer at hand, and it’s enough for me to simply record the year on a plan once drawn in the appropriate program and note where and what crops I grew. But the majority probably still have to draw such a plan by hand - in this case, it is more reasonable to draw a plan once indicating trees, shrubs, greenhouses, greenhouses and permanent ridges, then make a dozen photocopies, and on each one mark the crops planted in this or that year - it will be much faster.
How to reconcile all the pros and cons
Even with all the necessary information the right solution can be difficult to find. You start placing it, and it seems like you managed to plan almost everything, but at the last stage it turns out that, for example, for cabbage there remains a bed in which this same cabbage grew the year before last and at the same time suffered from clubroot. This means that you can’t plant her here, and everything starts all over again. Again we have to redo the plan, look for a new solution and draw it again.
If you are familiar with a similar situation and every year you give yourself a headache planning and re-moving crops around the garden, then try interesting solution, which I recently read about (I don’t need it, since I do everything on the computer, but most gardeners will probably find it very useful). True, to use this approach, you must have rectangular beds that are similar in size, and each vegetable must be planted on its own bed (that is, not in company with others).
In this case, you can plan like this: take last year’s site plan (and better plans for 3-4 years) and a blank sheet of paper. Draw this sheet into identical rectangles and write on them: potatoes, cabbage, carrots, onions, garlic, etc., listing everything you plan to plant. Moreover, if you always occupy two ridges with garlic, then, accordingly, there should be two rectangles with the name “garlic”, etc. Cut the paper into separate rectangles and begin to assemble a puzzle called “entertaining vegetable garden” on your plan, placing rectangular ridges in the desired way in your favorite places on your plan. It's not scary to make a mistake here, because... It’s easy to fix everything by moving the “wrong” rectangle to a new place. Try it, and this method will turn out to be much simpler than playing out all the situations in your head and repeatedly and painstakingly redrawing your plan.
What factors need to be considered when planning a vegetable garden?
First, everyone loves vegetables. sunny place. Only green crops, which include onion on the feather, and perennial onions like chives and slime, partially tolerate partial shade. This means that in the small shade of a house, fence, trees and bushes you can sow and plant onions and some herbs. Although you won’t get much harvest in this case, you still won’t be able to grow anything else in these places.
The second is the compatibility of vegetables: who is good with whom or, conversely, bad. Cabbage cannot live with tomatoes and beans. Cucumber - with potatoes. Tomatoes - with fennel. Potatoes - with tomatoes and pumpkin. Onions and garlic are very unpleasant for peas and beans, and hyssop for radishes. Only carrots get along with everyone, although from the point of view of protection from carrot flies, it is preferable to sow them in company with onions. This was about bad neighbors.
What about the good ones? Here are other examples. All vegetables of the celery family (carrots, parsnips, parsley, celery) go well with the onion family: onions, garlic, leeks, shallots. White and black radishes work well with other vegetables. Radishes grow very well between rows of bush beans - they become very large, tasty and not worm-free. Potatoes are not interfered with by beans, corn, cabbage, horseradish and onions. But each individually, because... There are several irreconcilable couples in this group.
Compatible with cabbage are onions, celery, potatoes, dill and lettuce. Tomatoes can be planted next to green and cabbage crops, asparagus and beans. Peas can coexist with carrots, cucumbers, potatoes, radishes, and corn. And so on.
The third rule is no less important - you need to take into account that the phytoncides secreted by some plants repel pests of other crops or prevent the development of some diseases. For example, onion phytoncides repel carrot flies, and carrot phytoncides repel onion flies. Dill protects cucumbers from diseases, and onions and garlic protect tomatoes. If you plant strong-smelling plants near the cabbage, such as celery, thyme or sage, they will muffle the smell of the cabbage and make it less attractive to pests. It’s a good idea to plant basil near beans to protect against bean weevils, garlic near roses to protect against aphids, and parsley near asparagus.
When planning, you also need to take into account predecessors, that is, whether a suitable vegetable grew last season in the place where you will plant another one in the spring. And here again there are numerous schemes! And the most important thing to learn is that you cannot plant the same crop in the same place. And, in addition, cabbage should not be placed after any cabbage or beets. Beets - after beets, cabbage and tomatoes. Tomatoes - after all the nightshades and peas.
The fifth thing that has to be taken into account is long-term crop rotation, a 3-4 year perspective. It's even more difficult here. Agronomy teaches you to alternate vegetables taking into account their nutritional needs, in particular organic matter. Conventionally, in the first year (i.e. on fresh organic matter) they grow cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, mid- and late-ripening cabbage, leeks, etc., that is, those crops that require a lot of organic matter. In the second year they are replaced by onions, peppers, tomatoes, and potatoes. The third comes the turn of root vegetables (carrots, beets, radishes, etc.), which have to add a fair amount of mineral fertilizers.
Features of garden planning
With a garden it’s even more difficult, because we plant vegetables every year, and if one year your planning was unsuccessful, then perhaps the next year everything will be much better.
We place trees and shrubs in permanent places for a long time, and once planted apple trees will supply you with fruit for the rest of your life. Therefore, when drawing up a garden plan, it is imperative to allocate separate permanent places for each type of tree, for vegetables, for flowers, and correctly calculate in advance where and what will grow in 10-20 years. And there are a lot of rules here too.
The first rule is that each group of crops (fruit trees, berry bushes, vegetable and ornamental crops) permanent place. A common mistake is the combined arrangement of crops, when vegetables, strawberries, and berry bushes are placed among young apple and pear trees. At first everything turns out well: the trees do not take up much space, there is enough light and nutrition for other plants. But over time, the trees grow, and then the catch crops fall into the shade and their yield becomes low. Therefore, the first rule of site planning is to allocate a separate permanent place for every culture. Of course, you can temporarily grow berry bushes, strawberries and vegetables among vigorous tree species, but then, when severe darkness sets in, they will have to be removed and moved somewhere else, which needs to be thought about in advance.
The second rule is to provide for the possibility of renewing strawberries, plantings of berry bushes, cherry and plum trees. Let's say strawberries bear fruit well in one place for 2-3 years. In the fourth or, at least, the fifth year of fruiting, it must be completely eliminated. Therefore, one bed is cleared every year in order to grow vegetables here the next year, and the vegetable bed is planted with strawberries.
Therefore, it is more convenient to place strawberries not in the garden, but in the vegetable garden and replace strawberry beds with vegetable beds. Currant, gooseberry and raspberry bushes can theoretically bear fruit in one place for a very long time, and it all depends on proper care. It is more profitable (from the point of view of saving your own time) to take good care of these crops and regularly prune and spray them, then in one place, subject to rejuvenating pruning, they can bear fruit for 10, 15 years or more. And everything will be fine. And if you take care of it poorly, then they will not last long, the bushes will weaken from diseases, pests, improper nutrition and thickening, and you will have to look for another place for them and start growing and shaping them again.
The third rule of planning is respect for the rights of the neighbor. Your trees should not greatly shade the neighboring area. The distance from the tree trunk to the boundary should be at least half the generally accepted row spacing: for tall trees 3.5-4 m, for medium-sized trees - 2.0-2.5 m. In the strip between the trees and the boundary you can plant currants, gooseberries, raspberries . And under no circumstances should you plant tall trees and shrubs 20 cm from the border, which, alas, is not uncommon.
The fourth rule of planning is to reduce the height of plants as you approach the house. In order for the home to be dry and bright, the shortest plants should be placed near the house - flowers, lawn grass, some strawberries, vegetables, shrubs, and tall trees should be taken further into the plot.
The fifth rule is to take into account the characteristics of certain plants. Of the berry bushes, it is better to plant red currants and gooseberries in drier, but well-lit places, and black currants in lower, more humid (but not swampy) places. Raspberries and sea buckthorn are planted separately in specially designated areas of the site, since the first produces many root shoots, and the second develops long roots that interfere with the growth and development of other plants; Strawberries are planted in places where snow lingers well in winter. Growing strawberries between fruit trees is undesirable.
Chokeberry and sea buckthorn look good when planted in groups closer to home. Schisandra and actinidia are planted near the wall of the house so that there is protection from the wind and it is possible to create reliable vertical supports. Barberry and lilac are planted away from all other crops (somewhere apart), because their root secretions do not give life to other plants.

This article discusses beds for the lazy: photos of the easiest structures to make for those who want to get a neat garden with a minimum of effort, the most common materials and technologies for creating structures based on them. The reader will learn how to combine vegetable crops in one bed and prepare the soil for planting cucumbers. The article contains practical recommendations for beginner gardeners.

Design proper beds in the garden will solve many problems and open up new opportunities for the owner of a summer cottage:

protection against soil erosion in the garden when there is a large amount of rainfall or watering the plants. The sides of the bed will keep the nutritious soil in place, preventing it from washing out onto the paths. In addition, the passages between the structures themselves will remain clean, no dirty puddles or streaks;

the possibility of forming the basis for creating a temporary greenhouse for the spring period. By installing high sides as fences, a multi-layer bed can be organized inside the structure, which can be used as a greenhouse. To do this, it is enough to install special arcs and stretch the film. The result will be a neat greenhouse house;

improvement appearance vegetable gardens due to orderly and even plantings with beautiful framing;

creating boundaries to prevent the spread of weeds.

Making beds with your own hands from boards and other materials allows you to clearly limit the planting area, thanks to which weeds and harmful plants do not have the opportunity to spread widely. If the garden fence is dug to a greater depth, the level of protection increases and perennial weeds, which are unable to overcome this barrier, can no longer penetrate into the garden bed.

Note! With the help of beds with well-buried fences, the spread of plants such as reeds and creeping wheatgrass is effectively blocked. Their root system is capable of covering large distances underground if left unconstrained.

Photo interesting designs beds, recommendations for their creation. Tips for Designing the Unusual landscape design Location on.

The most best place is an area where the sun is present throughout the day. It is allowed to install beds where there is shade in the morning or during the day. If the proposed construction area is dark throughout the day, you should not use this place for arranging a vegetable garden.

How best to make beds in the garden: choosing the optimal design

The design of the beds is selected at an early stage of planning, when a place for the vegetable garden has already been selected.

Each type of beds has certain advantages:

raised or - the most efficient designs that are best suited for growing vegetable crops. The building materials for their creation are not expensive, and the soil does not need to be dug up. The width and height of the structures determine how much effort and time will be required to build them. Most often, summer residents prefer wooden beds made of boards. On the Internet you can find photos of raised beds with your own hands; such structures do not have fencing. They also fall into the category of elevated structures;

container beds - will be beneficial in cases where site space is limited. Small, large and medium-sized pots are suitable for organizing such beds. Garlic, peppers, lettuce and herbs feel especially good in containers. Mobility is another advantage of container beds, which can be moved to any location if desired;

beds in open ground- the oldest method of growing crops that are planted directly into the ground. In such conditions it is more difficult to get a good harvest, so technology is often used joint landing vegetables in the garden.

Helpful advice! If you plan to plant crops in open ground, it is recommended to determine the quality of the soil, fertilize it and check the compatibility of vegetables in the garden according to the table.

How to make beds from boards with your own hands: useful tips

Raised beds are most often made from wood. This material, in comparison with others, is considered the most practical and environmentally friendly. Such designs look very aesthetically pleasing in the photo. Do-it-yourself beds made from boards have other advantages:

a simple maintenance system involving easy weeding, harvesting and watering of plants;

the ability to grow vegetable crops even where the soil is completely unsuitable for these purposes. A frame is made on the basis of the boards, which is subsequently filled with fertile soil purchased in the store, so there is no connection to the quality of the soil and its composition. Thanks to this, plants can be grown even in areas with rocky surfaces;

Box structures allow you to hold soil inside the bed. In addition, the presence of sides simplifies the process of installing arcs to form a greenhouse. It is much easier to secure these elements to the fence than to dig them into the soil;

Even without knowing how to properly make garden beds, any summer resident can cope with the manufacture of wooden box structures. The boards are easy to process, and the construction and assembly of the frame does not require expensive tools;

there is no chance that plants planted close to the sides will get burned in the summer heat. Wood, unlike metal, is not prone to overheating.

Note! The environmental friendliness of the material allows you not to worry about harmful substances getting into the soil. Wood is much safer than asbestos-cement sheets (slate). The exception is boards treated with chemicals designed to double the life of the material.

Making practical beds from boards: how to make the right choice of material

Summer residents most often create wooden structures based on blanks that they find on the farm. To make beds, timber, round timber, slab, and lining can be used.

When it comes to purchasing boards in a store, you should pay attention Special attention The type of wood from which they are made:

a board made of ash or oak will last a very long time. Although the cost of such products is quite high;

pine remains the most favorable in terms of price and processing. But this type of wood is highly susceptible to rotting while in the ground, so its service life is short. Due to impregnation and antiseptics the life of pine can be extended by a couple of years;

boards made of cedar and larch wood are considered the most suitable material for making boxes. Larch is naturally impregnated with resin, thanks to which the product will retain its newness for many years without the use of additional impregnations. Cedar wood is characterized by a lower resin content, but it is not inferior to larch in terms of durability and at the same time has an affordable price;

Boards made from acacia feel good in the ground. It is worth noting that this type of wood is durable and has a solid structure, so its processing will be more difficult. To work with acacia you will need a powerful electric tool.

Helpful advice! It is not recommended to skimp on the quality of the material. Boards made from poor wood are susceptible to rapid rotting. After a few years, holes will appear on the fences of the garden beds, through which fertile soil will be washed away during rains and watering of plants.

Making beds from boards with your own hands: photos, dimensions of structures

Box beds have a rectangular shape and are made of boards. The simplest design does not require special knowledge and skills, so any novice summer resident can handle its production. The main thing is to correctly calculate the dimensions of the boxes.

height– many summer residents strive to create the highest possible sides. However, this approach is erroneous if it is not intended to build a warm bed for cucumbers or other types of crops, where a fence height of up to 0.7 m is acceptable. The technology for manufacturing such structures requires laying multi-layer insulation. For ordinary beds, such high fences are not required; it is enough to limit it to 0.15-0.2 m. Excessive height of the sides is also unprofitable in economic terms, because their construction will require a lot of boards. In addition, wood is susceptible to deformation changes under the influence of moisture, so there is a risk that over time high fences will swell and lose their attractive shape;

width – experienced summer residents It is recommended to choose a width equal to half the height of the person who will care for the beds. Most often, this parameter is in the range of 0.9-1.2 m, because during work a person should be able to reach the middle of the structure from the side fence;

length– this parameter is practically unlimited. Although excessively long structures reduce the level of rigidity of the side rails, it is therefore recommended to choose a length within 4-6 m.

Helpful advice! When choosing dimensional parameters for wooden beds It should be taken into account that between them it is necessary to organize passages with a width of 0.4-0.6 m. Only after this the layout of structures on the site is considered.

Creating mixed plantings of vegetables in the garden: photo examples and optimal schemes

The method of combining crops is very effective in practice if the companion plants are chosen well. Therefore, plot owners use a special table to calculate the proximity of vegetables in the beds before planting. Some types of vegetables have a depressing effect on each other, others can improve the growth and development of neighbors and provide them with protection from pests.

The correct proximity of vegetables in the beds: compatibility table

Many summer residents note that thanks to the proximity of beans as a seal for the beds where potatoes are grown, the number of Colorado potato beetles is significantly reduced. Marigolds effectively protect cabbage from the white butterfly. Despite this, a certain balance must be maintained. After all, an excessive amount of marigolds in the garden can stifle the growth of cabbage.

Table of vegetable neighbors in the garden that create a successful tandem:

Name of vegetable crop Plants for successful combination
strawberries beans, spinach, marigolds, garlic, lettuce
kohlrabi cucumber, lettuce, onion, beets
peas carrots, corn, cucumber, calendula, eggplant
onion tomato, celery, beets, savory, carrots
beans potatoes, cucumber, tomato, strawberry, eggplant
cucumber radishes, peppers, peas, cabbage, beans
carrot lettuce, onion, sage, tomato, peas
salad strawberries, cucumber, carrots, radishes
pepper salad, cucumber, beans
tomato calendula, basil, beans, nasturtium, parsley
The following pairs of plants are characterized by poor compatibility of planting vegetables in the garden:

cabbage and strawberries;

onions and beans;

carrots and celery, dill, parsley;

cucumbers and potatoes.

Helpful advice! In addition to the main crops, it is recommended to spot plant herbs and ornamental herbs in the garden bed. Thus, the garden will not only be beautiful, but also useful.

Examples of mixed planting of vegetables in the garden: popular schemes

A good example of the compatibility of vegetables in the garden is the combination of onions and carrots. As an independent crop, onions can produce about 2.5 kg of yield from 1 m² of bed. Carrots on the same area yield approximately 6 kg of yield. When growing these crops together, 1 m² can produce 9 kg of vegetables. These plants create protective barriers against pests for each other, so the efficiency of the used area increases.

Of course, when planning to grow crops together in a garden bed, you need to group the plants based on their height so that none of them blocks the light for the other. This is necessary because vegetables can not only have different heights, but also grow at different rates. It is desirable that the compactors that are planted additionally be lower in height than the main vegetables. The principle of multi-tiered juxtaposition of vegetables in the beds makes it possible to create favorable conditions for the root system of crops, and also promotes the rational use of solar energy.

High yields are collected from the beds where beets and late cabbage are planted. To do this, beets (9 plants) and cabbage (4 bushes) should be planted on an area of 0.8x0.8 m, not forgetting to fertilize the holes with a glass of compost and a handful of eggshells (grind first).

To obtain excellent result When planting beans and tomatoes, it is recommended to place the plants in a row with a step of 0.3 m. Along the row with bush beans, it is installed so that each plant is located at the dropper. Tomatoes are planted in the central part of the garden bed. As a result, the bean and tomato bushes should be arranged in a checkerboard pattern.

Helpful advice! It is better to trim tomato stems for the winter, and as low as possible. On the contrary, it is recommended to leave beans untouched.

Table of crop rotation of vegetables in beds by crop groups

Crop rotation can also affect the yield of beds. If the annual change of crops grown in the same bed is carried out in the correct order, the garden will produce good harvests.

Advantages of proper crop rotation:

the likelihood of soil fatigue on the site is eliminated, since the same vegetable absorbs the same set of nutrients from the soil every year and does it from the same depth;

the spread of diseases and pests that affect plants of the same family is prevented;

it becomes possible to use fertilizers rationally.

The most primitive way of organizing crop rotation in a garden bed involves planting plants from different families in the same area every year. The easiest way is to divide cultures into four groups:

Leaf crops - these include different kinds cabbage, green onions, lettuce, and spinach.

Fruit vegetables - cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, pumpkin.

Legumes - beans, chickpeas, peas.

Root vegetables - potatoes, beets, radishes, carrots.

Table of the simplest crop rotation in the garden:

Sequence of landing by year Recommended crops for planting
1st bed 2nd bed 3rd bed 4th bed
1 year fruit roots legumes leafy
2 year roots legumes leafy fruit
3 year legumes leafy fruit roots
Arrangement of beds for cucumbers in open ground: photos and recommendations

To grow cucumbers in open ground, beds are usually prepared in the fall. This should be done before the rains and temperatures drop. The planting area must be carefully dug up and saturated with organic fertilizers. Cucumbers like fertile, light soil that has a good level of air and water permeability. If the soil on the site is heavy, sawdust, peat or sand can be added to the soil to facilitate loosening.

Helpful advice! To get a rich harvest, it is recommended to add a tablespoon of superphosphate and a glass of ash per 1 m² of area. Instead of ash, you can use dolomite flour.

The process of preparing a bed for cucumbers in the spring includes the procedure for disinfecting the soil. To do this, the site of the future garden is spilled with potassium permanganate. The solution must be hot and strong. In addition, soil fertility can be increased by adding chicken manure or manure. This procedure carried out locally, that is, the fertilizer is placed directly into the trench or hole. After this, the bed is covered with a small layer of soil, where the seeds are then planted.

How to make a bed for cucumbers: agrotechnical secrets

To get a rich harvest of cucumbers from the garden, you must adhere to the basic rules:

There should be no irrigation canals, streams or flowing reservoirs near the beds.

If the planting area is not protected, it is better to place the garden in a quiet place where there are no drafts.

Procedures such as watering and loosening the soil must be performed on a regular basis. Otherwise, a hard crust will form on the surface, and the bed will dry out greatly.

Cucumbers grown in open ground need to be fed much more often than those grown in closed beds.

During harvesting, it is not recommended to change the position of the plant's vines or turn them over.

Weeding of plants in open beds needs to be done more often than in closed ground.

It is recommended to cover the entire surface of the bed with black film.

Cucumbers need a rich biological composition of the soil. Therefore, it is recommended to fertilize the soil with organic matter, for example, grass, humus, branches, rotted manure, and food waste. In the process of their decomposition, not only does the fertility of the soil increase, but also heat is released, warming the soil. So that the high temperature does not damage root system cucumbers, experienced summer residents advise abundant watering.

Interesting fact! Sometimes decomposition organic fertilizers occurs so actively that the soil in the garden bed warms up to 80° C. Under the influence of such a high temperature, many pests, viruses and pathogenic fungi contained in the soil die. As a result, it happens natural sterilization soil.

There are several ways to grow cucumbers in open ground. For these purposes, you can form a long ridge bed, a hole, dig a ditch, or build a high structure.

How to make cucumber beds in the garden with a bookmark

To form a bed with a bookmark, you will need to dig a trench. The depth of the ditch should be equal to two shovels. Then branches are laid out across and sawdust is poured in. The next layer consists of straw and garden waste. Can add autumn leaves, cardboard or newspapers, compost. The thickness of the fertilizer layer should be within 5-7 cm. The layer is poured warm water and covered with a mixture of compost and soil.

A bed with a bookmark can effectively serve for 5 years. In the second year of operation, you will not need to add compost to the top layer, because during the decomposition of organic components, the bed itself will produce nutrients.

Advantages of a bed for growing cucumbers with a bookmark:

convenient watering system;

stagnation of water is eliminated;

In the spring there is no need to dig up the soil, just loosen the soil.

Plants can be planted on such a nutrient basis much earlier than is customary. ordinary beds. It is not recommended to use beds with filling in low-lying areas and areas where water stagnates.

Warm surface beds for cucumbers in open ground

This type warm beds for growing cucumbers, it is built on the surface of prepared soil. This technology will be the best option for areas located in lowlands. In order to enhance the heating process, the bed is covered with film. As a result, a greenhouse effect is formed, which has a positive effect on the growth of cucumbers and their productivity.

Surface beds also include structures in the form of boxes made of brick, slate or boards. The bottom of these containers is filled with sand, then with wood waste. Next comes a layer of organic waste and straw. After laying each component, the contents are carefully compacted and filled with liquid manure. Finally, the bed is filled with a mixture consisting of soil.

Helpful advice! Vegetable and fruit skins, fallen leaves, eggshell(ground into powder).

Cucumbers are planted in two rows. Plants are placed along the edges of the box bed, which ensures a sufficient level of illumination. If you plan to plant cucumbers in early spring, the structures can be converted into greenhouses. To do this, you will need to install plastic arcs and pull them on plastic film. Thus, heating is enhanced and it becomes possible to obtain early harvest. Moreover, the result is completely independent of weather conditions.

Raised beds for cucumbers in open ground

Warm beds with a raised structure are used in cases where the site is located in a region with a cold and humid climate. Due to this, the soil is fully warmed up, allowing for early harvesting. If they get too close to the garden groundwater, the bed is raised high, due to which the plantings do not get wet on soil that is oversaturated with moisture. Stone fruit trees, whose roots are severely affected by groundwater, are planted in a similar way.

As borders for these structures they are used various materials. The most popular of them are slate and wood. In rare cases, metal is used. This type of bed can even be installed in the middle of the lawn. If you frame it in the form of paving stones or tiles, a raised vegetable garden with cucumbers will become a worthy decoration of your summer cottage.

As alternative solution It is possible to build a bulk hill on the territory that does not have a fence. You can take any length for such a bed; the optimal width is 1 m. You should not raise the ornamental garden to a height of more than 1 m. The air that remains in the voids formed between the elements of large organic matter provides good ventilation and promotes rapid heating of the soil.

To speed up the decomposition process of fertilizers, the soil is spilled with a solution saturated with special bacteria. The procedure is carried out twice a year. The first time the soil is watered with bacteria is in the spring. After treating the beds, you should wait at least a week before planting plants. The second time the soil is spilled in the fall after the crop is harvested. When the soil has already been treated with the composition, it should be loosened so that the soil is saturated with oxygen and the drug itself is evenly distributed.

How to make beds in the garden: video review of technology

Many people spend most of their lives at their dachas. The summer resident cares for and cherishes his brainchild, using various devices for the garden and garden in the arrangement.

The result of human labor is beautiful garden beds that produce a good harvest.

Summer residents dream that their labors will always bring results in the form of a harvest. But record harvest largely depends on how the beds were placed in the garden.
You need to clearly understand how to correctly form them, arrange them, how to arrange places for beds in your garden, what size and shape they should be.

How to arrange beds in a garden plot

First you need to draw a schematic plan garden plot on paper to have an idea of what it will all look like in the end. Then make a line on the ground.

The beds should be positioned so that they receive maximum natural sunlight. Ideally, you will have fruit trees on the north side of the site, covering the beds from cold winds. Examples in the photo.

If you already have old trees on your site that you do not want to uproot, then simply prune their upper branches a little so that they can easily break through Sun rays.
Remember that the beds should be located from north to south. If your site is on a hill, then make beds across the hill. This will prevent the earth from sliding down the hill during rainy and windy periods.

If the site is located in a lowland, then make high-type beds. Remember that in this case you will need drainage trenches to drain excess moisture.

You have to make beds in the garden, but you still don’t know how to arrange everything so that it is convenient. To create convenience, wide passages between the beds are suitable. Sometimes you will need to walk around the garden with a cart, and the beds should not be an obstacle in your way. Think about this in advance.

You also need to think about which part of the garden there will be a compost heap in which waste from the garden will be stored. In the future, you can use the rotted material as fertilizer for garden beds.

Where the beds will be placed in the next season, you should think about it in the current one. Digging up old beds is carried out in the autumn, when the entire harvest has been harvested.

So, when creating a garden bed, you need to know:

what shape it will be;

its dimensions;

location.

The shape of the bed that suits you

The form can be anything. It depends on the imagination of the summer resident and the area for planting. The beds can be straight, figured, in the form geometric shapes. There may or may not be a fence around each bed.
An example of the correct distribution of beds
How to choose the optimal bed height

The beds are high and low. The optimal height is 40 cm. These kind of beds are warm, the sun's rays quickly warm the ground in them.

The average width of the beds varies from 60 cm to 1 m. The length of the beds can be unlimited.

Some of the summer residents adhere to the Mitlider method, according to which the width of the bed should reach 45 cm, and the passages between such beds should be 90 cm. The length of one bed in this case is no more than nine meters.

Optimal location: from south to north side

The location of the beds, as mentioned above, should be from south to north. If the site is very uneven, then the beds are made on the slope on the south side, and the trees are planted on the north.

You might be interested

Various useful devices for the garden and garden

Usage various devices and for the garden and garden, as well as creating homemade products greatly simplifies the life of summer residents.

If you like beds with sides, then your imagination is unlimited. Use various materials to create sides: boards, strips of slate, metal, brick. You can even purchase factory-made curbs and fences made of galvanized steel, coated with a polymer material. Quite a popular trend in last years began the production of shaped fences for beds from tires painted in various colors.

DIY homemade items look beautiful in the garden. The paths between the beds, lined with tiles, stones, or completely sown with grass, look aesthetically pleasing.

Any design solution will give your beds an excellent look that will delight your eye all season long.

Spring is the time to look at your dacha acres with a fresh look.

Now it is very important to correctly plan the location of future beds and plantings on them. This is one of the main components of summer success.

Change orientation

It is believed that the beds should be located according to the compass - from north to south. But this general recommendation does not apply to everyone.

It is much more important that the morning and evening rays of the sun can illuminate the rows of plants, so that high plantings do not shade low ones in the morning. After all, it is not hot morning and partly evening sun rays that are most favorable for the best photosynthesis, for the development and fruiting of plants. If the plants are tall, then the optimal location of the ridges will be in the direction from west to east, so that the low morning rays of the sun can freely “slide” along the rows of plants, illuminating each of them.

Here's what's important to know when choosing a location and preparing beds:

1 Ridges stretching from north to south are only good for low plants and horizontal section, where water does not stagnate during irrigation (or rain) and does not roll off faster than expected.

2 If the site has a slight slope, then it is more important to place the plantings horizontally, that is, across the slope. This way the plants will receive the same amount of moisture. Small uneven areas should be leveled by adding soil.

3 Make beds of equal length and width. U experienced gardeners they measure nine, four and a half or three meters long. And the optimal and most “fashionable” width among specialists today, which allows you to comfortably cultivate the land, is 45 centimeters for all crops. This standardization helps in calculating the plants to be planted and the consumption of fertilizers.

4 If the plot is uneven, the southern side is considered ideal for growing vegetables - due to more intense solar activity, crops ripen there much faster.

5 For one family (with a properly planned plot), it is enough to allocate one hundred square meters of land for vegetables. At proper care it will provide a surplus harvest.

Onion friend

Plants have a special relationship with each other. Plant beets next to the cucumber and you will get excellent harvest. But it’s better not to plant tomatoes next to cucumbers - they have different views on life: one loves constant humidity, while the other gets sick from it.

Properly planted crops nearby even help each other get rid of pests.

For example, experienced summer residents practice such an unusual neighborhood: among garden strawberries onions and garlic are planted. This is a reliable remedy for gray rot and strawberry weevil. And if you plant parsley along the edges of the bed, the number of slugs will noticeably decrease. What else do you need to know about the proximity of plants?

Garlic- has a beneficial effect on many plants. Plant it between rows of different crops, and the strong smell of garlic will repel pests. It is especially effective for combating aphids; from such proximity they disappear within a few days.

Beet- stimulates the growth of spinach, beans, tomatoes, potatoes. One of interesting features This culture is that the secretions of its root crops have antibiotic properties, therefore planting it next to some vegetables, in particular carrots, has a healing effect.

Bush beans- significantly reduces the number of Colorado potato beetles on potato beds. Beans are also “friends” with carrots, beets, eggplant, pumpkin, and feel comfortable next to corn. If you plant radishes next to bush beans, the root vegetables will be especially tender. Beans also have a beneficial effect on tomatoes.

Tomatoes- grow well next to celery, radishes, radishes, lettuce, corn, cabbage, onions, garlic, spinach, parsley. Favorable neighborhood white cabbage and tomatoes, cabbage butterflies do not like the smell of tomato tops.

Cabbage- grows well next to most crops, but ideal neighbors for it are potatoes and onions, as well as celery and lettuce (protect cabbage from flea beetles), dill (the plant fights aphids and improves the taste of cabbage).

Dill- growing in the same bed with cucumbers, it prolongs their fruiting period. And the proximity to garlic and onions protects cucumbers from many diseases.

cucumbers- are favorable to beans: they grow faster from living together. Plant beans along the edge of the cucumber bed - you won't be disappointed.

But cucumbers have many competitors - potatoes, corn, radishes, radishes, spinach, and basil are no less coveted next to beans. Basil itself is even ready to help its desired neighbor - it reduces the damage to beans by weevil.

Pepper- a wonderful “partner” for basil and thyme. Eggplants can be safely planted next to beans, onions, thyme, and herbs.

Carrot- feels good next to peas, beets, onions, tomatoes, radishes, parsley, spinach, lettuce, marjoram, and sage.

Onion- best friend and carrots. Planted nearby, they successfully protect themselves from pests. Each of them has its own pest - the carrot fly and the onion fly, respectively. But the onion fly cannot tolerate the smell of carrots, and the carrot fly disappears if onions grow nearby.

Onions also get rid of many other pests, and also help in nitrogen nutrition of cabbage, carrots, beets, parsley, celery, radishes, spinach, and chicory.

Hatred is just one step away

Sometimes the plant neighborhood, on the contrary, turns out to be unfavorable. So, all legumes grow poorly next to onions and garlic. Grapes cannot stand proximity to cabbage. Garlic develops slowly if beets are planted nearby.

Cucumber does not tolerate living together with essential oil crops. And he doesn't like tomatoes. It’s only in a salad that tomatoes and cucumbers go well together. And in the garden their relationship is close to hostile.

For successful growth, tomatoes need dry, hot air and infrequent but abundant watering. Excessive soil moisture provokes late blight in tomatoes.

Cucumbers prefer warm, damp conditions. But you can plant tomatoes in those beds where cucumbers grew last year, and vice versa.

Many gardeners scatter ash over snow-covered beds in early spring, as soon as the sun warms up. At the same time, the earth is freed from snow and melt water two weeks earlier and warms up faster.

Melting snow is very useful. IN melt waters contains a large number of various microelements that are easily absorbed by plants. Therefore, try to retain this moisture by making furrows and windrows across the slopes. Install drainage ditches in low areas.

Don't repeat the common mistake: don't delay the melting of snow under the treetops with manure, sawdust, etc. You will not get any benefit from this technique, and the harm can be significant. Under the influence of positive air temperatures, the above-ground part of plants awakens and requires nutrition and moisture. At this time, the roots are in frozen soil and are not able to “work.” As a result, so-called physiological drying of the crown may occur.

You can quickly and easily dry the cellar from spring dampness using a mini-fan installed on the suction ventilation pipe.

A box with a removable bottom is well suited for growing seedlings. When transplanted into the ground, the plants are not damaged at all.

A plastic bottle makes a convenient watering can for seedlings. To do this, use a hot nail to make a hole in the lid and insert a cocktail straw with a bendable tip.

Two polyethylene strips laid crosswise on the bottom of a container with soil for seedlings will help remove the plant quickly, easily and without damaging the root when planting it in the garden.

To prevent the seedlings from stretching too long, they should be moved to a cooler place at night. For example, from the window heating battery- on the floor or to the balcony doors.

If every morning you touch the seedlings on the windowsill or in the greenhouse with cardboard or your hand several times (5, 10 or 20), then your plants will grow stockier and stronger.