– a durable, wear-resistant and impact-resistant sanitary ware that has been used as a washing container for hundreds of years. Previously, bowls made from this difficult-to-work heavy alloy did not have worthy alternative. But even now, when construction stores are full of more modern and varied steel and acrylic models, they continue to be in demand.
The popularity of a cast iron bathtub is explained by the fact that, despite its fairly high cost, it has long term operation and maintainability. After 10-15 years of use, when the enamel turns yellow or becomes cracked, to restore the original appearance DIY products, just cover the bowl with a new layer of paint.
Features of cast iron baths
Cast iron bathtubs are considered the most popular, as they have a long service life, wear resistance and impact resistance, and also do not require special care. These sanitary products are produced using the casting method.
Cast iron is a material that is very difficult to process, since for all its hardness and great weight it has increased fragility. The greatest difficulties are caused by giving the alloy a round, curved shape, therefore the dimensional and model range The bowls made from it are not so varied. The advantages of a cast iron bathtub are:
- Wear resistance. Wash containers made of cast iron can withstand more than 50 years of intensive use, and the strength of the product does not decrease. The enamel fails a little earlier, however, if you repair the bathtub yourself in time, you can completely restore the appearance of the coating.
- Low noise. The thickness of the walls of a cast iron bath reaches 8 mm, so they have a low resonating ability. Therefore, when drawing water, there is no strong noise, unlike steel models.
- Maintainability. The enamel of a cast iron bathtub, generated during operation, can be restored with your own hands. Repairs are carried out by enameling, pouring acrylic or installing an acrylic liner.
- Slow cooling. Cast iron is characterized by a low thermal conductivity coefficient, due to which water drawn into a bathtub made of this alloy retains heat for a long time.
Important! Modern models Cast iron washing containers are coated with enamel using the electrostatic method. IN production conditions applied to the bath powder paint, which is under the influence high temperature melted and then baked. High-quality factory enamel lasts at least 10 years if you follow the recommendations for the care and use of the product. When chips appear on the old coating, you can repair the enamel yourself.
Damage to enamel
The enamel applied to the surface of a cast-iron bathtub in a factory is considered to be quite wear-resistant and reliable; after 10-15 years of use, even if all the manufacturer’s recommendations are followed, it will lose its original appearance.
To restore the top coating, you can repair the bowl yourself by applying new paint. Over time, the following defects appear on the inner surface of the bath:
Pay attention! If minor defects appear on the surface of the enamel coating, it is better to immediately perform an inexpensive, but efficient repair– enameling a bathtub at home. Restoration performed on time allows you to delay a more global method of restoration using an acrylic liner.
Enameling technology
The technology for enameling a cast iron bathtub at home differs from the factory one, since in production it is used special equipment. Coating the inner surface of a sanitary bowl consists of 4 main stages: preparing the container, mixing the compound, applying paint and drying.
Each of these processes is important; the stability and durability of the result depends on the correct execution of the operations. To repair the bathtub cover yourself, you need to:
Please note that it is better to repair the bowl using special enamel designed for restoring bathtubs. Some craftsmen recommend using cheaper paint for yachts and sailboats, however, it will not last as long.
Features of the technology
Repairing a cast iron bathtub using the enameling method with your own hands is simple and effective way restoration of the appearance of the product. With minimal financial investment, it allows you to avoid replacing the old washing container, reducing the cost of bathroom renovations.
This operation can be successfully performed with your own hands if you follow the technology for applying enamel. Enameling technology at home has the following features:
Experienced craftsmen claim that this method of restoring a cast-iron bathtub has only one drawback - the drying time. However, this small minus is compensated by the inexpensive price, ease of application and durability of the result.
Video instructions
The top layer of enamel on steel and cast iron bathtubs wears away over time. Unsightly stains, cracks, chips, and yellowness appear on the surface. Of course, you can throw away such a bathtub and install a new one in its place, but restoration will extend the life of your plumbing and save the family budget.
Restoration. Methods
Restoration can be carried out different methods, including:
- application of two-component enamel. The two components are the hardener and the enamel itself. The mixture is applied to the surface like regular paint;
- Filling the bathtub with acrylic (glass). After sanding and thorough degreasing, the bathtub is filled with acrylic. After just 2 days, the updated plumbing is completely ready for use;
- installation of a “bath in a bath.” This method involves installing an acrylic liner that is completely identical to the old bathtub. The liner is attached with glue or foam and allows you to use the restored bathroom for a long time.
Preparing a bathtub for enameling or acrylic application
Although these methods have their own characteristics, the preparation procedure is completely identical. Layer needs to be removed old enamel and achieve maximum adhesion of the future coating to cast iron/steel.
Find out what they are, and also check out the types and tips for choosing from our new article.
It is necessary to prepare the following materials and devices:
- cleaning powder;
- solvent;
- fabric-based sandpaper (for example, P24);
- quick-hardening polyester automotive putty;
- polyethylene, newspapers and masking tape;
- vacuum cleaner (or wide soft brush);
- grinder + grinding wheels;
- clean, lint-free cloth;
- construction hair dryer;
- screwdriver
Step 1. Clean the entire surface of the bathtub with a brush and an abrasive agent (powder).
Step 2. Take sandpaper and clean the bathtub until risks from abrasive appear. There is no need to rinse off the cleaning agent when sanding. Instead of sandpaper, you can use an angle grinder with a special attachment. This will greatly simplify the work and speed up the preparation process.
Step 3. After sanding, thoroughly rinse off all crumbs and soap film. We etch the bath using oxalic acid. Neutralize the acid with soda.
Step 4. Fill the bath hot water to the sides. We wait about 10 minutes, open the drain to let the water drain, and then wipe the bathtub dry with a cloth. You can warm up the vessel with a hair dryer. This way, the moisture will quickly evaporate and the bathtub can be further prepared for restoration.
Step 5. Inspect the bathtub for major defects and potholes. We apply automotive putty, and after it dries, we sand it with fine sandpaper. Remove dust with a vacuum cleaner/soft brush, then thoroughly degrease the entire surface of the plumbing fixtures with a solvent and wipe with lint-free wipes.
Step 6. Unscrew the shower hose. We wrap the spout and taps in polyethylene so that drops of water do not fall into the bath during operation.
Step 7. Armed with a screwdriver, remove the grate and siphon under the bathtub. We place a container under the drain hole into which drops of acrylic or enamel will flow.
Strapping diagram. 1 - overflow pipe; 2 - drain pipe; 3 - metal support wedge; 4 - floor siphon; 5- sewer socket; 6 - metal grounding strip
Step 8. Seal masking tape all surfaces that are adjacent to the vessel being restored. Floor, standing nearby washing machine, cover the sink with polyethylene or old newspapers.
Let's begin the restoration process.
Applying enamel
You can enamell not only a bathtub, but also a shower tray made of steel and cast iron, a washbasin, and a kitchen sink. Both the entire surface of the plumbing fixtures and individual areas are restored, if necessary.
This method of restoration is short-lived, but quite economical. It will serve you for a couple more years, after which you will again have to think about painting or replacing it.
Pay attention! The enamel has a pungent chemical smell, so all work can only be done in personal protection for the respiratory system.
Step 1. Open the enamel and hardener. Pour them into a convenient bowl, mix with a mixer until smooth (see the exact proportions on the package).
Step 2. We begin to apply the enamel with a brush, making first horizontal and then vertical strokes. Carefully paint the entire bath.
Advice! To prevent bristles from coming out of your brush, soak it in water for one day!
Step 3. Without waiting for the first layer to dry, apply the second. Gently stretch out the smudges with a brush.
Step 4. Paint the bottom of the vessel again.
The bath will be ready for use in about 5 days. Until this point, it is advisable not to turn on the water and prevent dirt from getting on the painted surfaces.
Prices for bath enamel
Bath enamel
Restoration with glass acrylic or self-leveling bath
This two-component mixture is quite easy to apply, has no pungent odor and has increased strength characteristics. The glass spreads on its own, forming a monolithic, smooth film on the surface of the bathtub. At the same time, glass does not dry too quickly, which means that work can be done without haste and fuss.
Step 1. Mix the stacryl with a mixer in a convenient bowl.
Step 2. Add glass from a common container into a small glass and pour it onto the top edge of the bath. As soon as the stream reaches the middle of the wall, we begin to move the glass around the perimeter, periodically pouring the mixture into the glass.
Step 3. We repeat the process, starting to pour from the middle of the walls. There is no need to save the mixture; the excess will be poured into a container under the hole, and the coating will be even and smooth.
If bubbles form on the surface, they can be smoothed out with a plastic spatula or brush.
The polymerization process takes up to 4 days. Exact instructions for proportions and drying time are indicated on the glass packaging.
When the surface has completely hardened, you can remove the films, newspapers, tape, install a siphon (old or new, at the discretion of the owner) and use the bathroom restored with your own hands.
Video - Restoration of a bathtub using liquid acrylic using the “pouring” method
Prices for bulk acrylic
“Bath in bath” or acrylic liner
If you do not want to carry out hygiene procedures for several days using a basin or visiting a bathhouse, then the method of inserting an acrylic liner is ideal for you. The process of self-restoration in this way takes no more than three hours, and you can use the bathroom the next day.
In addition, the liner made of durable sanitary acrylic significantly reduces the thermal conductivity of the bathtub, as a result the water cools very slowly.
For best result It is important not only to choose the appropriate size insert, but also to correctly distribute adhesive composition(foam and sealant from Henkel).
Step 1. Armed with a screwdriver and a grinder, we dismantle the strapping elements.
Step 2. Prepare the bathtub for installation of the liner. We clean the entire surface with sandpaper, a grinder, remove debris with a vacuum cleaner and degrease the surface. Wipe all drops of water dry. This measure is necessary to improve the adhesion of the adhesive foam to the plumbing fixtures.
Step 3. The inserts are transported with a technological edge, which is carefully trimmed with a grinder before installation.
Step 4. After the edge is cut, insert the liner into the bath and make markings for the technological holes. To do this, we draw circles with a marker, sticking our hand under the bathtub and tracing the drain and overflow holes.
Step 5. According to the markings, we drill technological holes.
Step 6. Apply two-component foam and sealant. We insert a bottle of sealant into the gun and distribute it around the drain and overflow holes. Next, we take the foam and use a syringe to inject a special composition into the balloon, which will prevent it from swelling excessively. From bottom to top, apply foam in strips to the bottom, walls, and sides of the vessel being restored.
Step 7. Insert the acrylic liner into the bathtub, gently press it with your hands, leveling it. Remove excess sealant and foam.
Step 8. We install the siphon (piping).
Step 9. Fill the bath with water so that the foam, when hardened, does not displace the lightweight liner. The next day, you can drain the water and use your updated bathroom.
IN free time You can install a decorative screen under the restored bathtub, as well as protective edges on the edges in contact with the walls.
Before starting hygiene procedures, do not forget to remove protective film from the insert.
Video - Installing an acrylic liner. Do-it-yourself bathtub restoration
How to repair chips or minor restoration of damage to a bathtub
Sometimes small chips, cracks from fallen heavy objects, or scratches appear on the surface. And in this case there is no need to produce complete restoration, it is enough to carry out minor repairs in the proper sequence.
Previously, such defects were eliminated by mixing glue with tooth powder or applying epoxy to the chip and sprinkling it with porcelain dust. But such methods are extremely unreliable and should be abandoned.
Step one. We are preparing the chip for repair. First, apply a rust converter to the chip, wait, and wash off the composition with water. Then we clean the chip with powder or dishwashing liquid. Rinse with water and wipe dry.
Step two. Using acetone or another solvent, degrease the defective area. Dry and heat the surface with a hairdryer.
Step three. Using automotive putty, we coat the chip. We wait for it to dry and sand it with sandpaper.
Step four. We cover the putty area with two-component acrylic or automotive enamel.
Also for restoration you can use a ready-made repair kit for a bathtub, which includes acrylic paint, hardener, several sheets of sandpaper, epoxy putty, polish and detailed instructions. The approximate cost of such a kit ranges from 900 to 1300 rubles.
Video - Repairing chips and even through holes in a metal bathtub
Over time, the bathtub loses its attractive appearance. Smudges and traces of rust appear, the gloss disappears, and it becomes rough to the touch. Everything says it's time old bath change. And these are not small expenses. In addition, when replacing a bathtub, you cannot do without renovating the entire bathroom, and small expenses will turn into medium, or even large ones. But there is an alternative - do-it-yourself bathtub restoration. There are a large number of materials on the market with which you can independently update your bathtub with the proper quality.
Bathroom restoration methods
Now there are three methods for restoring old bathtubs:
1. Restoration of the enamel surface of the bathtub.
2. Restoration with liquid acrylic.
3. Restoration by installing an insert.
Method 1: ordinary enamel
Cast iron and steel enameled bathtubs are the most common types of bathtubs in our apartments. They are produced according to GOST 18297-96, which has been in force since 1997. According to this GOST, the warranty on bathtubs is 2 years. But as practice shows, the enamel on them lasts no more than 10 years of use.
Enamel is applied quite simply to bathtubs in the factory. First, the outer surface is heated red-hot, then inner surface sift the enamel powder and leave for some time to sinter the powder with the metal. Heat the outer surface again until the powder melts. The result is a smooth, glossy enamel coating. It is clear that at home this method restoration of a cast-iron bathtub, like a steel one, is not suitable.
Why does enamel usually wear out?
Wear of the enamel surface occurs as a result of two factors:
- The use of cleaning products containing abrasive powders or substances with chlorine inclusions.
- Application chemical reagents when cleaning water supply networks.
As a result of many years of exposure to these factors, the enamel surface of the bathtub becomes thinner, becomes rough and begins to rust.
Restoration of an enamel surface
Restoring enamel with your own hands is a fairly simple process. It consists of two stages: preparing the surface and applying a new layer of enamel.
What will you need for work?
You will need the following tools and materials:
- electric drill with a grinding wheel attachment;
- abrasive powder;
- sandpaper;
- rust converter (for example, “Tsinkar”);
- degreaser (for example, Nefras);
- lint-free napkin;
- natural bristle brushes or spray bottle;
- respirator and gloves;
- enamel, preferably two-component (enamel plus hardener).
Preliminary stage: surface preparation
Very important stage. The more thoroughly the bathtub surface is cleaned, the better the quality of the new enamel layer.
- the old enamel is sprinkled with abrasive powder and cleaned off with sandpaper or a grinding wheel mounted on an electric drill;
- treat areas affected by corrosion with a rust converter, leave for half an hour, then clean with sandpaper;
- wash off the enamel and crumbs with water;
- thoroughly treat the bathtub with a degreaser using a lint-free cloth;
- fill the bathtub with hot water and let it warm up for 10 minutes;
- drain the water and wipe dry with a lint-free cloth; Make sure that there are no lint or other foreign elements left on the surface.
Main stage: applying enamel
- according to the manufacturer's instructions, mix the enamel and hardener in a certain proportion and mix thoroughly;
- apply the first layer of enamel with a brush or spray;
- maintain a certain period of time according to the instructions;
- apply a second layer of enamel.
This concludes the process of restoring an enamel bathtub with your own hands. It is advisable to wait at least a week before using the bath. This is exactly how long it takes for the enamel to completely polymerize.
The service life of the new enamel will be about 6-8 years.
Method 2: bathtub restoration with liquid acrylic
This method of restoring a bathtub appeared relatively recently, thanks to the advent of a special material - glass.
How do we restore?
Stacrylic is a two-component acrylic material developed specifically for the restoration of bathtubs. It consists of acrylic itself and a separately supplied hardener. When acrylic and hardener are combined, the polymerization process begins, and when applied to the surface, the composition turns into a high-quality acrylic film with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm.
Advantages of glass
Stacryl has three remarkable properties that help it quickly and effectively restore a bathtub:
1. Viscosity
The optimally selected glass viscosity coefficient helps without special effort do acrylic coating 4 mm thick on the walls of the bath and 6 mm on its bottom.
2. Fluidity
The fluidity effect allows the glass to independently envelop the surface of the bathtub and lay down in an even layer.
3. Delayed polymerization
Thanks to this quality, you can calmly and relatively comfortably carry out work on the restoration of the bathtub, without fear that the acrylic will harden too quickly.
After polymerization acrylic surface has mechanical and impact strength far superior to an acrylic liner or enamel layer.
Work execution technology
Technology for restoration of bathtubs with liquid acrylic even simpler process enameling and is as follows:
1: Surface preparation
This stage is no different from the restoration of an enamel surface. Repeat the same steps. Then disconnect the siphon and place a container under the bathtub drain where excess acrylic will drain.
2: Applying liquid acrylic
- prepare the acrylic mixture according to the manufacturer's instructions;
- pour slowly ready mixture on the upper edge of the bathtub, as soon as the stream reaches the middle, we begin to smoothly move the stream of glass around the perimeter of the bathtub;
- when the circle is closed, repeat the procedure, starting from the middle.
The process of pouring restoration must take place continuously; for this you need to take a glass container suitable size. You shouldn’t save money - it’s better to pour out a little more acrylic than not have enough of it; the excess will go into the container under the drain hole.
Acrylic polymerizes, depending on the type, from one to four days. Choose glass acrylic with a long drying time; in this case, the acrylic surface will be of higher quality.
The service life of the restored bath will be about 20 years.
Method 3: bathtub restoration using a liner
The simplest, but also the most expensive method of restoration is installing an insert. In addition, it is impossible to completely restore the bathtub with your own hands using this method, since the liner is manufactured in a factory.
There is an option to order the production of a liner for a specific bathtub at the enterprise, and install it yourself.
The technology for installing the liner is as follows:
- thoroughly clean and degrease the surface of the bathtub;
- insert the manufactured liner into the bathtub;
- check the correct connection of the drain holes;
- cut the liner along the line of the wall tiles;
- apply special glue to the inner surface of the bathtub and outside liner and dock them;
- The joints are additionally sealed with silicone.
After installing the liner, pour into the bath cold water and leave it for a day. After this, the restored bathtub is ready for use.
The insert will last you up to 10 years.
How much will it cost to restore a bathtub?
In conclusion, we will conduct comparative analysis the cost of restoring a bathtub, based on the methods discussed above.
Bathtub enameling
The cost of high-quality enamel “Reaflex 50” produced by the Finnish company “Tikkurila” is 550 rubles per 1 kg. The Russian restoration kit “Svetlana” costs 750 rubles. As a result, you will have to pay 1300 rubles.
Self-leveling restoration
If you buy a kit for restoring a bathtub with liquid acrylic, for example Plastall, it will cost about 2,000 rubles. By the way, it has everything you need for independent work, even a CD with a video lesson.
Acrylic liner
The cost of the liner itself and polymer glue ranges from 2800 to 3000 rubles.
The best option is the self-leveling restoration method, in which you will get a beautiful and durable coating for little money. Moreover, any of these methods is several times cheaper than purchasing and installing a new bathtub.
For you, dear residents and guests of the city. We are pleased to offer a bathtub restoration service in Moscow. Any shapes and sizes, cast iron and iron.
On this page you can see what your restored bath will look like. Also here are the current prices for Moscow and its suburbs: Zelenograd, New Moscow, Troitsky, Khimki, Solnechnogorsk,
Your benefits
Why should you entrust the restoration of your bathtub enamel to us?
- Financial discipline - The price is strictly fixed.
- The price includes travel and labor.
- Double surface cleaning.
- Free leveling and strengthening of the bottom.
- Puttying of chips and cracks is carried out free of charge.
- Tinting is carried out at the request of the customer and is also free.
- Experienced workers from 5 years, strictly Slavic.
- Prompt completion of work in 2.5-3 hours.
Our works:
Bathtub enamel.
Bathroom restoration.
Restoring bathtub enamel.
Bathroom update.
Restoration of bathtubs.
Restoration of bathtubs Moscow: price
Cost of enameling and restoration of bathtubs in Moscow
| Type of restoration (work + material) | Price ₽: |
|---|---|
| Filling bath | from |
| 1.2 Size. Restoration with liquid acrylic | 3200 |
| 1.5 Size. Restoration with liquid acrylic | 3500 |
| 1.7 Size. Restoration with liquid acrylic | 3600 |
| Restoring a shower tray with liquid acrylic | 2900 |
| Cleaning up the old layer | 600 |
| Restoration of a sink with liquid acrylic when ordering a bathtub+sink | 500 |
| 3 year guarantee on all work done by the master. | |
| Enameling with a brush. | Price ₽: |
| 120 Size. Bathtub enamel | 3100 |
| 150 Size. Bathtub enamel | 3200 |
| 170 Size. Bathtub enamel | 3300 |
| Enameling the tray | 2500 |
| Cleaning a previously painted bathtub | 600 |
| 1 year warranty. | |
| Full price list for our services | |
Restoration of bathtubs in Moscow
Our portfolio
We understand that we perform a specific service. Unlike physical goods, which can be examined in detail before purchasing. Feel it in the store. Restoration with acrylic, as well as with enamel, is done in Moscow at home. And you can’t put it on display... Therefore, this section has been created where you can look at the final result. Everything is done by our employees. There are examples made in Moscow. Images are enlarged by clicking on them with the mouse.
Restoring bathtub enamel.
Self-leveling enamel, the strongest material today.
Restoring the surface of a cast iron alloy bathtub. Since the time the house was built, it was installed with a backward slope, and now the water does not drain completely, constantly forming a puddle at the bottom. It regularly had to be “raked” by hand. Otherwise, the drying water formed a rim of limescale, which was very difficult to clean. The restoration of the bathtub enamel was carried out on site, without dismantling it and the adjacent tiles. Before restoring the bathtub, the dilapidated, “Soviet” drain was replaced. We strongly recommend this procedure be performed whenever possible. Since the siphon is new, it looks beautiful in the updated glossy bathtub. And the price for replacing the drain is quite reasonable, and cheaper than ordering it separately from plumbers. As for restoring the enamel of the bathtub, in such cases when frankly rusty water flows from the faucet, we recommend restoring the bathtub with NEM epoxy-acrylic enamel. In our studies, this material showed the highest acid resistance and resistance to impact and fracture.
Bathtub painting with acrylic coating.
All methods of painting bathtubs are possible.
A cast iron bathtub is a good and strong frame; its weak point is its enamel. It is this that becomes unusable over time. You can buy a new one, spending a lot of money and time on it. Or you can simply paint it with enamel, without removing it, the price will be much lower, and the work time will only be a couple of hours. As a result, the bath is again smooth, shiny and glossy, which is easy to clean with a household sponge.
In the photo there is just such an option:
Liquid acrylic was used to paint the bathtub. Made in Germany. The advantage of this acrylic is that the surface can subsequently be washed with acidic agents. The drain has also been replaced. If it is removable and open access, we strongly advise you to do so. Although it is permissible to paint the bathtub without removing the siphon.
Bathtub enamel.
When is it better than buying a new one?
Bathtub enamel Moscow, at the time of ordering it was 6 years old. As the client said, initially he had a good-quality one, cast iron, with smooth sides. Over time, it became rough; he decided not to enamel the bathtub and replaced it with a modern iron one. To prevent the enameled iron bathtub from rattling as water poured in, he foamed the space between the bottom and the floor. I thought it would last a long time. She stayed with him for 6 and a half years. He no longer wanted to start repairs again. It was decided to order the service “enamelling with liquid acrylic”. He was right.
Restoration of bathtubs with liquid acrylic.
The optimal choice for areas with particularly contaminated water.
Restoration of bathtubs in Moscow. The plumbing is covered with a red coating that is very difficult to wash off. The customer hesitated for a long time about painting, pouring, or even replacing it with a new one. There is no point in changing it if rusty liquid flows from the tap, since the factory coating quickly wears out from aggressive cleaning agents. The surface can be restored with any material, but in this case the bathtub was restored with liquid acrylic; this simplifies its cleaning in the future and increases the service life of the restored enamel.
Bathroom update.
Renewing old enamel with liquid acrylic.
The bathtub enamel was renewed using the “Pouring” method, that is, it was filled with liquid acrylic white. Ferrous water left a rusty, yellow coating on the surface and it had to be washed with chemicals, which in turn corroded surface layer. Restoring bathtubs with liquid acrylic corrects surface roughness and covers up any plaque stains. You can click on the photo to enlarge.
Good to know...
The capital and Moscow region are the largest region of our country.
Lots of baths. Many of them are very old, there are many people who want to update. Naturally, there are many companies on this basis. Offering a service for their restoration in our city. Some offer restoration with enamels, believing that acrylic is a waste of money, while others, on the contrary, carry out renovation with liquid acrylic or install liners and also, at any opportunity, insist that painting with enamel is not serious and will not last long.
Many people know the saying “every frog praises its own swamp.” And one can only be happy for those restorers who so zealously protect their business. But, as you know, people are not interested in the ideological beliefs of the masters, but in the most rational method of restoring bathtub enamel in your area. No matter how restorers claim, there is no clear panacea. Sometimes it is more rational to do the classic work “Enameling bathtubs”, and sometimes it is better to do the restoration with liquid acrylic.
And, to help you figure it out, it would be useful to read an article about the current methods of restoring bathtubs. About the pros and cons of these methods and how bathtubs are updated. This way you can answer for yourself the question of what is better, covering the bathtub with enamel or filling it with acrylic. Also, for clarity and understanding of what the restored surface will look like, we are posting several examples: see the photos in our portfolio.
Replacing a bathtub is a very expensive and troublesome undertaking, associated with great difficulties and quite significant financial costs. That is why most of those who have started a renovation (especially not a major one, but a cosmetic one) are looking for alternative ways to give this plumbing product a neat appearance again. Masters in this field certainly know how to restore an old cast-iron bathtub. But it’s quite possible to do most of the work yourself.
When is it time to renovate your bathtub?
A cast iron bathtub is the standard of quality, strength, and reliability in the plumbing world. It’s not for nothing that they recommend installing products made from this alloy in apartments. Many houses built back in the Soviet Union had just such bathtubs installed. Moreover, such baths are still used today. Also, a cast iron product is comfortable to use: it does not create noise, unlike, for example, a thin-walled iron bathtub. And it’s nice to wash in it - the bath retains the heat of the water poured into it much longer than others.
Unfortunately, even seemingly eternal things wear out over time. And a cast iron bath is no exception. In this case, it is not the structure itself that deteriorates, but the coating – the enamel, with which the structure was coated at the factory. And now this special paint, applied using a special technology, begins to lose its appearance, and its performance characteristics are getting worse.
Note! During production, cast iron bathtubs are coated with enamel after strong heating. It is due to this that it is possible to obtain high-quality adhesion of the base to the coating.
Signs that it's time to update your bath are listed below.
- Internal surface roughness. It is much more pleasant to step on smooth enamel than on pumice-like enamel.
- Cleaning the bathtub is becoming increasingly difficult. The reason is the same rough surface on which an ordinary sponge no longer glides easily and pleasantly. It takes a lot of effort to clean a bathtub.
- Dirt and rust quickly and strongly eat into the enamel due to loss of smoothness. In some cases, contamination cannot be removed completely.
- The appearance of chips and cracks on the surface of the enamel.
Attention! Enamel chips are dangerous for the entire structure. The fact is that enamel paint protects cast iron from exposure to water and aggressive chemicals for cleaning plumbing fixtures. Rust forms quite quickly in places where there are chips and gradually begins to spread throughout the entire structure right under the enamel.
It is these signs that tell the owner of the bath that it is time for her to “rest.” But don’t rush to dismantle it and throw it away - the bathtub can be revived! And for this there are three fairly simple and, at the same time, relatively inexpensive methods - using an acrylic liner, the “fill-in bath” technique and updating the enamel.
Three ways to update your bath
All these methods differ from each other in price, quality, speed of work and complexity of implementation. But it’s worth considering them all to choose the one that suits you best. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages, which are important to know in order to make the right choice.
Painting the bath
Self-enamelling or, more simply put, painting the inside of the bathtub with special coloring compounds in order to renew the coating is one of oldest methods restoration, which has already stood the test of time.
The work is carried out using a brush and special kits for restoration, which include the hardener itself, and the kit may also contain colors various colors, which will allow you to change the color of the bath and make it as harmonious as possible in a certain color scheme interior By the way, you can buy such coloring pigments yourself, and then simply add them to the coloring composition diluted according to all the rules.
The paint is applied to the surface of the bathtub, previously cleaned of dirt and rust. Before starting work, it is advisable to sand the walls using grinder, wash, and then degrease with any means (for example, acetone).
Important! Before the enamel is applied, the bath is well heated. This can be done using a hair dryer or by typing hot water. However, after using the second method, the surface of the structure will have to be thoroughly dried. Otherwise, the paint will not adhere as it should.
It is most convenient to work with a brush, however, there are also those compositions that are perfectly applied to the surface of cast iron with the help of a small paint roller. There are restoration compositions for enameling bathtubs and in aerosol cans, but they are not recommended for use on large areas, since the paint coming out of them often lies unevenly on the surface, and therefore drips may remain. By the way, some compositions, especially professional ones, may have increased or decreased fluidity, which can complicate the work of a beginner. Therefore, it is worth buying non-professional kits.
Attention! All compounds used for enameling bathtubs are very toxic, and therefore it is important to work in a respirator and rubberized gloves. It should also be ensured good ventilation in the apartment and remove children and animals from the house.
It will take about a week to completely restore the bathtub using this method. The fact is that the enamel is applied in several layers, and each of them should be thoroughly dried before applying the next. TO , You can read in our article.
| Advantages | Flaws |
|---|---|
| A cheap and accessible way to restore bathtubs. | The enamel is sensitive to shock and cracks easily. Over time (and quite quickly), chips may appear. |
| You can do the work of enameling a bathtub yourself, and the products for this are sold in any hardware store. In this case, you do not need to have special skills to apply enamel. | The enamel does not cover large irregularities - they need preliminary refinement. |
| During the work, plumbing fixtures will not be dismantled. | After a while white paint will begin to turn yellow. |
| That's enough quick way bath restoration. | You need to take care of such a bathroom very carefully - do not use aggressive chemicals or abrasives for cleaning. Also, do not pour boiling water into a bathtub with such a coating. |
The average service life of enamel is about 5 years. Therefore, if this method was chosen, you should be prepared for the fact that after this period of time the enameling will have to be repeated.
Prices for bath enamel
bath enamel
Acrylic liner
This method of restoring bathtubs is actively used for cast iron products and is otherwise called “bath in bath.” A custom-made or purchased ready-made acrylic liner is inserted inside the old structure, which follows the contours of the plumbing structure. It is fixed inside with foam or special mastic, which is applied to the inner surface of the bathtub. In this case, it is necessary to dismantle the plumbing parts for drainage.
Advice! For high-quality adhesion of the adhesive substance to the surface of the bathtub, it is best to clean and degrease it (the surface).
The acrylic liner is solid, so first it is inserted into the bathtub without glue, holes for drainage are marked, after which they are removed and these holes are cut. Then, having applied the adhesive composition to the inner surface of the bathtub itself, the liner is lowered there and glued.
Table. Advantages and disadvantages of the method.
| Advantages | Flaws |
|---|---|
| Acrylic is a very durable substance; such a bathtub coating will be stronger than enamel. | The need to dismantle plumbing equipment. |
| The liner does an excellent job of hiding all the unevenness and damage to the bathtub, making it smooth and beautiful. | Cannot be installed on structures made of thin metal. Such metal can bend under the weight of water and people, which is why the adhesive adhesion of the liner to the surface is easily broken. |
| Acrylic does not turn yellow over time. | Quite a high price. |
| Easy to install. | The method high demands to the quality of materials - bad glue or a poor-quality liner can ruin the whole job. |
The service life of the acrylic liner is approximately 15 years. However, this restoration method is much more expensive than the previous one.
Video - Installation of acrylic liner
Acrylic coating
This method is otherwise called “fill bath” because it is performed using a special technology using liquid acrylic. The substance is poured onto the prepared surface old bath. This is a fairly durable coating that resists daily exposure well, but still requires careful cleaning without the use of abrasives.
Note! Due to its relative thickness and viscosity, liquid acrylic can be used to mask unevenness during bathtub restoration.
“Fluid bath” is enough new method restoration, but has already become a favorite of many, since it does not force plumbing owners to completely replace a cast-iron bathtub, but can be done easily even with their own hands.
Filling bath - before and after
The advantages of the method lie in the durability of the coating, since acrylic is applied in a fairly thick layer - about 5-6 mm. By the way, despite its thickness, it spreads well over the surface of the bath. It is also very pleasant to the touch and smooth.
How to properly restore a bathtub using this method? It's simple - follow our instructions.
Step 1. First you need to prepare the bath for work. Using a grinding machine, the old enamel coating is sanded to a rough state.
Step 2. The bathtub is cleaned with a powder and a sponge, and then rinsed with clean water.
Step 3. The drainage system is dismantled both at the top and at the bottom of the bath.
Step 4. The surface of the bathtub is degreased using any degreaser. Acetone will do, as will any other solvent. After this, liquid acrylic is prepared according to the instructions indicated on the package. The mixture must be stirred very thoroughly.
Step 5. It's time to start filling the bathtub. For ease of work, a little acrylic can be poured into a small container. To avoid staining the floors, the container is placed in the bathtub.
Step 6. Acrylic is poured onto the surface of the bath in a thin stream, starting from the corners and edges of the bath in a circle.
Step 7 The substance is poured in several layers. It should flow down the walls of the bathtub, evenly covering the sides and top.
Step 8 Using a spatula, the acrylic layer is leveled, starting from the middle of the bathtub to its bottom. All “gaps” are covered. The acrylic is lifted with a spatula from the bottom of the bath. In this way, all the side walls and bottom are worked out.
Step 9 The bath is left to dry - this period is at least 36 hours. All this time it is better not to touch it at all, otherwise you can ruin all the work.
Step 10 Lastly, when the acrylic dries, a drain system is installed.
Now you can use the product for your pleasure. The service life of a “fill-in bath” varies from 8 to 15 years.
Video – “Floating Bath” Technique
Compositions for “fill bath”
A “fill bath” can be made using two types of media – glass acrylic and liquid acrylic. They are different from each other, and a common mistake for beginners is to mistake them for the same substance.
Stakryl began to be used about 10-15 years ago. It is relatively inexpensive and has fairly high strength. After applying it to the bath, it should be dried for at least 4 days - and already here you can see a clear difference between the substance and ordinary liquid acrylic, which has a shorter drying time. Glasscryl is also afraid of mechanical damage, so it is important to handle a bathtub covered with it carefully and carefully.
Liquid acrylic, on the contrary, has appeared quite recently on the construction products market. It has higher strength and resistance to various mechanical stress. The coating made from it retains a glossy shine for a long period of time. By the way, the smell from it is much less pungent than from glass. Acrylic takes only 36 hours to dry.
In general, both materials can be used for the restoration of bathtubs and other plumbing fixtures. But you should definitely know the difference between them.
Summing up the results of what has been said, we can confidently note that anyone can restore a bathtub with their own hands, restore its former grandeur and neat appearance, even without the use of drastic measures to replace the bathtub itself. But the service life of such updated products (or rather, their coating), of course, is not so long.
Acrylic bath liner - installation steps
Filling bath - before and after
