If the height of your room exceeds 250 cm, then this means that you can make a plasterboard ceiling on two levels without compromising the height of the room. In this article we will learn how to properly make two-level plasterboard ceilings yourself, and you will also be able to see a video demonstration of such work.
We bring to your attention a simple version of the second level, but, nevertheless, containing the principles of producing complex figured ceilings.
Arrangement of two-level ceilings
Marking
- Between the placed marks, use a chockline to beat off the approximate line of the first level frame, since it is correct to do two-level ceiling This is only possible if all ceiling levels are level.
- Determine in which direction the plasterboard sheets (GKL) will be hung and across this direction draw the ceiling every 50 cm.
To do this, place marks along the direction of the plasterboard under the ceiling and, using the chockline, hit the lines.
Advice. When marking a room under the ceiling, the cones of the water level rest against the ceiling, and you have to fill the water almost to capacity.
Therefore, you are better off removing these cones and using one tube.
First level frame
- The first step is to install the UD profile to the wall. If there are no mounting holes on the profile, then drill the wall directly through the profile installed with the bottom along the approximate line.
Maintain the distance between fastenings from 40 to 50 cm. - To install profiles, it is best to use dummy dowels with a diameter of 6 mm and screws with a diameter of 4-5 mm (the length of the dowels and screws does not matter much).
To attach the frame elements to the main ceiling, you will need a flared dowel with a head on the sleeve, since ordinary dowels fall into the voids that are found in concrete.
It is also good to use impact dowels for this purpose (there is a head), but the screw from the kit must be replaced with a thicker one.
- Now, along the lines marked on the ceiling, we fasten the hangers, taking into account the above requirements for dowels and screws. The distance between the hangers should be no more than 50-60 cm.
Do not neglect these requirements, since you can make a two-level plasterboard ceiling yourself only by correctly following these instructions.
- Under the installed hangers, install the CD profiles, inserting them into the openings of the UD profiles screwed to the wall.
Under, for leveling, you need to tighten the nylon thread, but the sagging of the CD will prevent this from being done, so each profile needs to be tightened with a middle suspension, bending the ears of the suspension under the profile.
- The thread is secured with self-tapping screws on UD profiles screwed to the wall, across the CD profiles. Each person's level is set along this thread.
They are screwed to the hangers with special small self-tapping screws, and the profiles at the joints are also fastened together with the same screws. The protruding ears of the pendants can be bent to the sides.
Advice. When purchasing self-tapping screws for plasterboard profiles, check their suitability.
The screw should not fall from the no. 2 attachment, even if it is placed in a horizontal position, or even if the screw is slightly lowered down.
Drywall installation
- To save money and time in those places where there will be a second level, gypsum boards need not be hemmed onto the first level.
Second level
- As mentioned above, we will look at how to make a second level ceiling of low complexity, but with an element of a figured ceiling.
First you need to draw the contours of this level, and then trim the side walls of the profile after 5-10 cm (the distance should be the same) and screw it through the gypsum board to the upper frame along the drawn line. IN in this case Let's take a UW profile 75 mm wide.
- We screw the same UD profile, 25 mm wide, to the wall and insert CD profiles between the wall and the bend, screwing them with self-tapping screws to the profiles holding them.
If the CD Profile turns out to be longer than 50 cm, then it should be additionally strengthened with a suspension screwed through the gypsum board to the upper frame. - Hem the second level with plasterboard and cut off the excess with a hacksaw already on the ceiling, since this way it is easier to maintain the shape.
You have already understood how to make two-level ceilings correctly, but there is still a vertical plane left.
- When installing ceilings, do not forget about the lamps, since two-level ceilings can only be made with illumination.
Conclusion
If you follow the principles outlined above, you can make more complex shapes on the ceiling. Using the same principles, you can also install the third level plasterboard ceiling.
One of the most effective design techniques is the use of lighting effects. Often it is light that gives zest to the interior. A backlit plasterboard ceiling is one of the most common options. The good thing about it is that, if you wish, you can make it yourself, with your own hands.
Main design differences
Illumination of a plasterboard ceiling can be hidden or open. Open - spotlights that are fully or partially visible. This is why it is called hidden because only its radiation is visible. Therefore, when installing a plasterboard ceiling with hidden backlight The lower level boxes are made with a shelf on which lighting fixtures are placed.
This shelf can be open or closed and, depending on this, and the position of the light sources, the width and brightness of the strip of light on the ceiling changes.
How does the flux of light change depending on the shape of the shelf and the location of the light source?
Design of the lighting box
To make such a box for ceiling lighting, you need two types of profiles:
In the version shown in the photo above, the shelf does not rest on anything. The rigidity of the gypsum board itself is enough to hold a light backlight. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the weight of the lighting elements. The heaviest are fluorescent lamps, but they are practically not used recently, since there are other options that are more energy efficient and easier to install (LED strips, duralight).
There is a second design. Here the shelf extension rests on elongated crossbars. If the previous design seems unreliable to you, you can make this one. Only in this case a little more supporting profile will be required. The photo shows an example of organizing a two-level flow of plasterboard with lighting.
Exactly the same scheme can be implemented in a single-level version. If your main ceiling is in good condition, you can only make a box around the perimeter. Example assembled frame for highlighting below. All that remains is to make the inner side and hem the frame from below.
A backlit plasterboard ceiling does not always have straight lines. They are simply the easiest to implement. But the same schemes are made with curved lines. They turn out very beautiful suspended ceilings.
Only at large distances from load-bearing walls it is necessary to additionally fix the supporting profile either to the ceiling or to the profiles of the previous level. It is more convenient to do this with the help of suspensions.
Light sources
When planning to illuminate plasterboard ceilings, you must remember that this is not lighting at all, but only a way to decorate the room. The flow of light is diffuse. Initially it is fused onto the ceiling, and then into the room. And it adds almost nothing to the overall illumination of the room. With its help, you can visually “raise” the ceiling, making it one of the components of the interior, but this element cannot be considered lighting. You will have to take care of lighting separately: install built-in lamps, wall lamps or traditional chandeliers.
Backlighting can be done using different sources light, but recently three types have been used:
- LED
- ribbons;
- duralight.
- Neon tubes.
LED strips and duralight
This is a series of LEDs mounted in series. Their peculiarity is that they are powered by 12 V or 24 V. This power can be provided using an adapter that converts the 220 V household voltage to a lower one. There are monochrome tapes (white, red, blue, green) which are labeled as SMD or universal RGB.
Monochrome ones always emit one color; the color of universal ones can change. RGB strips only work with a controller and remote control. Upon command from the control panel, they change shade (the number of colors can be different - from tens to hundreds); in some models, the intensity of the glow can also change.
According to the type of design, LED strips are:
- Ordinary. They don't have protective coating, can only be used in dry rooms.
- Waterproof. Their surface is varnished. Can be used to illuminate wet rooms - kitchens, bathrooms.
- Moisture resistant. They are sealed in a polymer tube (called duralight) or housing. They are rarely used to illuminate rooms, more often in aquariums, swimming pools, etc.
The choice here is clear. Select the type of tape depending on the room conditions. , and we’ll talk about why LEDs are good or bad in backlighting.
First, about the advantages:
- Low power consumption. They are very economical. Considering that this is just decoration, I don’t want to shell out large amounts of money for its maintenance.
- They don't warm up. Only the power supply can heat up; the LEDs themselves do not heat up. This is important if the ceiling is wooden.
- Long service life. Counts in thousands of hours. With normal power supply, they burn out very rarely (do not exceed the current strength for which they are intended).
- Low price. SMD tape 35*28, 5 meters long and with a density of 120 pcs/m, costs about $2-3. You have to pay about the same amount for the adapter. True, these are AliExpress prices. Everything in stores is much more expensive (2-3 times), although you won’t go broke either.
- Easy installation. On back surface tape applied adhesive composition. Remove the protective layer and glue it in the right place. If the surface is rough, you can “shoot” with staples from a construction stapler, but it is better not to pierce the tape itself.
Now about the disadvantages. First, and most important: LEDs harshly highlight all surface imperfections. Therefore, the requirements for the quality of ceiling finishing are very high. The second minus: the presence of adapters. They need to be placed somewhere. I guess that's all.
Neon tubes
These are glass tubes filled with a mixture of inert and luminous gases. The brightness of the glow changes with changes in current strength, which is regulated by the convector. These devices are installed every 5 meters, their power consumption is about 100 W, and they do not make noise during operation.
A step-up transformer is also required for operation: normal voltage is not enough for neon to operate. Transformers are installed every 6 meters. But they can hum during operation, and also get warm and, of course, draw electricity quite well. The entire system as a whole consumes a fairly large amount of electricity, which, coupled with the fragility of the tubes and the rather high complexity of installation, makes it not very attractive compared to LEDs.
But recently neon cords have appeared. They come with a controller and all you need to do is press a button. They operate on AA batteries. But the power of such lighting for the ceiling is definitely not enough. They can be used in conjunction with LEDs to illuminate interior details.
Installation of ceiling lighting around the perimeter with step-by-step photos
The main ceiling in this version was puttied, so the first tier was not made. We attached only the box around the perimeter: the height is already small and 7-8 cm, required for organizing the hanging one, is critical.
Near the window there is space left for a cornice, the width of the box is 60 cm, it is lowered by 12 cm relative to the main ceiling, the height of the side is about 5 cm, the protruding part is 6 cm, roundings are made in the corners.
The first method was chosen - a step under the lighting without support. Since the backlight is planned from a regular LED strip, it bearing capacity more than enough.
First make markings on the ceiling. All given dimensions are set aside and lines are drawn using a paint cord. Please note that the line on the ceiling is laid at a distance of 54 cm, and not 60 cm, as in the first diagram. It is obtained taking into account the fact that the step is moved forward by 6 cm.
When drawing curves, their center is made not in the place where the profile is attached, but taking into account the protruding step: this way the element turns out to be more expressive.
The profile guides (CD or PNP as marked) are attached along the marked lines. They attached it to dowels at 50 cm intervals. They drilled straight through the metal. Having installed the plug, we tightened the dowel-nail.
Where it is necessary to form a rounding, the walls (sidewalls) of the profile are cut, the back remains intact. After this, the profile can be laid out in a circle.
From the front side, we attach a strip of plasterboard 12 cm wide to the guide profile on the ceiling. This will be the back side of our box. We fasten it around the entire perimeter with self-tapping screws at a distance of about 10 cm.
On the back side of the installed side we attach vertical posts from the CD (ceiling) profile. Their length is small - 9.8 cm (12 cm height of the box, minus 1 cm for installing profiles, and another minus 1.2 cm for the thickness of the plasterboard screwed from below).
In each segment the lower part is trimmed. The side walls are removed so that another guide profile can be screwed on. As a result, its bottom shelf should be flush with the profile screwed to the wall. Installation step vertical racks- about 40-50 cm.
We screw short vertical pieces around the perimeter
Next step: screw on the PNP profile that goes along the bottom of the boot. It is also installed on self-tapping screws in increments of 10-12 cm.
They connect two guide profiles: the one that is screwed to the wall, and the one that is attached to the main side. They are made from a supporting profile in increments of 40-50 cm.
Let's start creating the curves. To make the strip bend along the required path, we take a strip of drywall about 15 cm wide. We cut it in 5 cm increments and break the plaster. The result was pieces of plaster that were held on cardboard.
Now we attach such pieces to the profile. For each fragment - one self-tapping screw, approximately in the middle of the width, so that it does not burst.
Using a laser level, we transfer the height markings to the inside. If you don't have a laser level, use a water level and draw a line with a pencil.
Then we take a piece of the supporting profile 9.8 cm long, just cut it both at the top and bottom. Approximately in the middle of the arc, we place one edge behind the profile and fasten it with a self-tapping screw.
Then we take a piece of profile cut into fragments (as we did when forming a circle on the ceiling) and fasten it along the mark.
Finished rounding “from the inside”
Now the excess pieces of gypsum board can be removed. They are cut level with the bottom edge of the profile, carefully cutting the paper and breaking off small fragments.
The next step in making a backlit plasterboard ceiling is putty. The ceiling and main side are plastered. This is the most convenient moment for this. Later, the bottom hem and the protruding cornice will interfere.
The most convenient way is to cut out a square, then trim it on one side. First we screw it in straight lines. Then, gradually, in an arc, drawing the required edge shape.
First you can draw, then bite off small pieces along this line. Smooth out any uneven surfaces with a wallpaper knife.
No news: for curves, we cut the sides, bend them the required diameter and install it in place, fixing it with self-tapping screws.
If you plan to do LED backlight plasterboard ceiling, it's time to attach the tape. Then it will be very uncomfortable. It is glued in the right place, if necessary, installing some kind of inclined plane.
Next, a strip of plasterboard 5 cm wide is attached to the profile. One of the features is the fastening in the middle, and not at the top and bottom: the height is too small. The bends are also done in a familiar way. We cut a strip every 4-5 cm, break the plaster and fasten it.
In this version, to make the work easier and give the ceiling a finished look, fillets are glued to the side ( ceiling plinth). Similar ones are glued at the junction of the box and the wall.
Now all that remains is to putty everything and achieve flat surface. Almost everything. The plasterboard ceiling with lighting is ready, all that remains is to install the lighting itself. And it can be different.
Another option can be seen in video format, but with working backlight.
Installation of two-level flow is demonstrated in next video. The steps are shown schematically, but the assembly of the first level is clear. So that might be useful.
How to decorate a plasterboard ceiling with lighting (photo)
LED lighting of a plasterboard ceiling is just an effective design technique. Lighting must be taken care of separately
Ceiling lighting in the bedroom
Greetings to all visitors to my little frail site)), just kidding, it’s not that bad). This time we will have a rather interesting and relevant topic for many. This will be a do-it-yourself two-level plasterboard ceiling. Moreover, we will consider the case with a curvilinear height difference.
Yes, it’s definitely more difficult to do this than a single-level one, but it also looks much more interesting, you’ll agree. And here it’s up to you how cool it will be, because the flight of imagination in the case of such ceilings is limitless. We, of course, will not invent some kind of tin, but will take as an example a form with simple smooth curves.
Moreover, in the example there will be the most labor-intensive case when our entire ceiling will be assembled from gypsum board. A similar design, of course, can be obtained by combining HA with plaster or suspended ceiling(by the way, here’s something about ), just by mastering the plasterboard version completely, you can easily implement these.
Before reading this material, I strongly recommend that you read the article “Gypsum plasterboard ceiling”; there you can learn a lot about the gypsum board and get basic information about assembling the ceiling. In this article, I will, of course, describe the entire process, but I will not go into much detail about some of the details that I have already written about earlier.
So, let's go. Let's see what we need to assemble a masterpiece.
Tools and accessories
A few words about clip-and-pull hangers. They are used when the length of conventional straight hangers (12.5 cm) is not enough. They look like a small anchor on which ceiling profiles are hung. On one side of this anchor there is a special spring clip into which the rods are inserted. The rods are ordinary metal spokes, 4mm in cross-section; at one end they have a loop through which they are attached to the ceiling.
Compressing the spring, the suspension is moved up/down along the spoke, placing it at the desired height; after which the clamp is released, and the suspension is rigidly fixed to the rod. Working with them is easier than with direct hangers, because they do not need to be fixed with self-tapping screws, but the need to use them arises very rarely (well, for me personally).
The rods are available in different lengths: usually 35, 50, 85 and 100 cm. The suspensions themselves also come in different lengths different shapes, depending on the manufacturer. The estimated load on one such suspension is 25 kg.
There are also special vernier suspensions, they are more powerful, designed for 40 kg, but I have never used them - it was not required.
Marking and installation of the first level
First, we need to prepare a drawing of the ceiling on paper or a computer. The second option is certainly much more convenient. An article will be published soon on one simple and very useful one. To avoid missing out, subscribe to site updates.
Let's say we have our legendary virtual room. In the article about building a partition, the room was divided into two, so now we decided to install a beautiful two-level ceiling in one of these parts. We draw up its drawing and estimate the shape of our future masterpiece - it will consist of two parts of circles of different radii. The center of one of them coincides with the center of the window opening, and the second lies on the opposite wall.
In general, we need to collect the following: 
I took the circles from the bulldozer, so I got such ugly radius values, but it doesn’t matter.
It should look something like this: 
First we need to mark the first level - the one above. We believe that there will be no recessed lights in this part of the ceiling, so we lower it to minimum distance from draft. Usually 5 cm is enough. To be one hundred percent sure that our profiles will fit, preferably water or laser level measure all the corners of the room, and at the same time the middle, find the lowest point and retreat from it.
If installation of sound insulation is required, take into account its thickness; it should be placed freely between the rough ceiling and the plasterboard.
There are 6 spotlights planned on the second level; we will assume that we have already laid the wiring for them.
Using a water level, you need to make horizontal marks at all corners, which are then connected with a “breaker” (a cord breaker). Here's our starting line: 
Along this line we fasten the guide profiles, glued with sealing tape, using dowel nails. We bring them half a meter beyond the farthest point of the supposed beginning of the second level. One wall in our room is plasterboard, the guide profile is attached to it using ordinary black screws; We try to get them into the rack profiles. 
Next we mark main profiles– those that will be attached to the ceiling with suspensions. Here it is convenient to place them across the room so as not to build them up. We take a step of 40 cm, since we will attach the gypsum board to the frame, again across the room - there will be fewer seams, because the width of the room is less than the length of the drywall sheet. By the way, I have nothing against a step of 60 cm, many choose it that way; but with a step of 60 cm, you also need to install transverse profiles on the CRABs, this is time-consuming and expensive.
The last main profile should be completely under the second ceiling level. In our case, 8 of them were required. 
Now the pendants. Our room is narrow, so load-bearing profiles (those across the main ones), as such, are not needed here, especially since our main ones come with a minimum pitch. Therefore, for suspensions, you can choose any step you like. I take 60 cm. Although official technologies allow you to take steps of even a meter, I think that saving on suspensions is too dangerous and I never place them further than 60 cm from each other. We drill holes for the hangers with a hammer drill and mount them on anchor wedges, having previously glued them with sealing tape. 
After attaching each suspension, it is recommended to pull them down so that later they do not sag on their own, along with the sheets of HA. Now we insert the ceiling profiles and fasten them to the hangers with four self-tapping screws each. We bend the excess length or pre-cut it, as I did in the example. If there is sound insulation, then be sure to bend it, these will be like “hangers” for mineral wool. 
We sheath: 
There is no point in sheathing to the end, we stop as soon as we have gone beyond the beginning of the second level, put transverse jumpers on the CRABs so that the edge of the last sheet is held more rigidly: 
Of course, you need to cut the gypsum board approximately according to the shape of the ceiling, but I don’t want to die at the computer, making all sorts of pretzels with sheets, so I depicted them as rectangular. The hangers for the second level will go through the holes in the first level, but for you everything will be the normal way - from the ceiling.
Second level installation
We begin to install the second stage of the two-level ceiling. Using an improvised compass, we draw circles on the first level.
I repeat - your first-level drywall should extend beyond this line by a maximum of 10 cm. We attach the guides to the surfaces of the first level and to the walls. To give the guide profile the shape of a ceiling bend, it is necessary to make notches on it every 4-6 cm. This means that one side and back side of the profile are cut, and the remaining whole side side is bent. I tried to reproduce this in 3D, it didn't turn out very well, but I think it gets the point across: 
Let our height difference be 10 cm, we attach the guide profile to the walls at the appropriate height, not forgetting about the vertical end profiles. The next step is to attach the hangers with clamps to the rough ceiling.
The configuration forces us to run the main profiles along the room, we’ll find out why a little later; It would also be better to mount the sheets lengthwise. Therefore, we take the pitch of the profiles at 40 cm, and leave the distance between the hangers approximately 60 cm. It is better to cut off the excess length of the rods in advance, but some craftsmen simply bend them.
We mount profiles from the long side second level, since from here we will begin cladding the gypsum board. It is highly advisable to place the hangers closer to the ends of the profiles, no further than 30 cm, so here you can “hammer” a step. Here's what I'm talking about: 
The ends of the profiles must be trimmed so that they do not go beyond the plane specified by the guide, but follow its shape as much as possible. After the PPs are cut and installed, you need to “put on” a guide, previously cut into segments, on them, you will get something like this: 
That's why we installed the ceiling profiles along them. We are not fixing anything with self-tapping screws yet, or we are fixing it temporarily. Now we have to cut the drywall sheets the desired shape"on earth". You need to start from the long edge: 
Using a plumb line or level, we lower the centers of the circles and the points of contact with the walls to the floor, draw arcs on the sheets along which we will cut them. This is best done with a jigsaw. By the way, we see in the diagram that we need 2 sheets on the long side: a large one and a very narrow one - we must first place jumpers between them on the CRABs.
So, we sawed through, say, the first sheet, the largest one. We lift it with the edge along our vertical and sew it to the frame. For now, we do not screw in the screws closer than half a meter from the edge, so that we can adjust our segmented guide, and we move it so that the back side (looking at us) approximately coincides with the smooth end of the GK sheet. We sew it together immediately as we go.
The second narrow sheet will not cause any problems, but with the third we do the same as with the first - we sew it with self-tapping screws away from the edge, combine the guide profile with the edge of the sheet, and finish it off. We get the following: 
Mine, as you can see, let me down a little here (more precisely, I don’t really know how to use it yet)... If I had known two years ago that I would decide to start my own website, I would have stocked up during this time good photos, but the decision to start it came to me spontaneously, so I have to use an editor to make everything more clear to readers.
So, all we have to do is sew on the end. This is not difficult, drywall bends quite well. But on steep sections it is better not to try to bend it, we simply sheathe the end in segments of 20-50 cm. There is no need to install jumpers here, I use them when the distance between the guides is more than 20 cm, and we have only 10.
This completes the assembly, all that remains is to prime, reinforce and putty the joints of the sheets, plus install a flexible plastic protective corner. You have already read about seam processing in the article about single-level ceiling, and you can find out about the protective corners in the article “Do-it-yourself slopes” in the “Plaster” section.
In fact, in the absence of experience in installation plasterboard structures It’s very difficult to assemble a two-level ceiling, really, seriously difficult. But if you are not the shy type, I suggest you calculate how much you can save on this! Such a ceiling costs from 800 rubles/sq.m. (in our village). Our example room was small, with an area of 9.5 sq.m. This means that we saved 7,600 rubles on the work of the craftsmen. True, this figure refers only to assembly and does not take into account subsequent putty, etc. Not bad money, in principle.
The result is something like this: 
So, you and I have finally figured out how to assemble a two-level plasterboard ceiling with our own hands, well, I hope so, because this article was not easy for me, I wrote it for two days, about 12 hours... Building such things at home – it’s not an easy task, but the result is definitely worth it. Subscribe to updates and be the first to know about new articles!
Reading time ≈ 14 minutes
IN high rooms You can always make two-level plasterboard ceilings with your own hands - this is not only beautiful, but will also save energy, since the volume of the room will be smaller. But you don’t always get what you want - in some cases, the height of the rough ceilings is less than 2.5 m and at least 15 cm will go into two tiers. As you yourself understand, this is too low for a living space. Heating pipes running under the ceiling can also become an obstacle. However, let's consider the required actions to complete such work.
Two-level plasterboard ceilings with chandeliers and lighting
What materials and tools will you need?
In order to get a beautiful two-level ceiling, you will need a certain set of materials and tools.
Materials
From left to right: perforated galvanized hanger, UD profile and CD profile
First of all, this is a suspended frame for which different profiles can be used:
- profiles CD and UD, CW and UW;
- perforated galvanized hangers, or, if the ceiling needs to be lowered, then buy wire hangers;
- ceiling plasterboard;
- fastening fittings (self-tapping screws different sizes and dowels).
Tools
Attachment for plasterboard sheets with safety skirt
The toolkit will consist of:
- hammer drill;
- electric or cordless drill with attachments;
- metal scissors;
- graters with sandpaper or diamond mesh;
- hacksaw or hacksaw blade;
- metric tape, painting knife, long water level.
What can you say about profiles?
Geometric parameters of profiles for drywall
Most often, CD and UD profiles are used to install suspended ceilings due to the small height of the shelves - only 27 mm, but this is not something fundamental. If a person wants large differences in tiers, then the upper one is mounted on CD and UD, and the lower one on CW and UW. In such cases, the difference between the levels can reach 100 mm.
bend metal profile very easy
Many people like not just two-tier, but figured suspended ceilings made of plasterboard or mixed with PVC stretching. Making them is also not very difficult and you need to start from the frame, more precisely from the lower level, since that is where the figures are made. You can make a smooth zigzag, circle or oval, and for this it is more convenient to use UD and UW profiles, since, unlike CD and CW, they do not have stiffeners. To do this, the profile flanges are cut down to the sole every 50-100 mm (it all depends on the steepness of the bend. If the sole is inside, then the cuts are made straight, and if outside, then triangles are cut out in the cuts so that the petals do not interfere with each other when bending.
What can you say about drywall?
Fire-resistant plasterboard - GKLO
All plasterboard sheets can be divided into five types:
- Ceiling plasterboard – thickness 6.5 mm (Chinese) and 9.5 mm.
- Wall plasterboard – thickness 12.5 mm.
- GKLV moisture resistant - thickness 12.5 mm.
- GKLO fire-resistant - thickness 12.5 mm.
- GKLVO moisture-resistant, fire-resistant - thickness 12.5 mm.
According to the technology, any of these types can be installed on the ceiling, but the question arises: is it necessary? The ceiling sheet is the thinnest and therefore the lightest of all. Weight square meter ceiling gypsum board with a thickness of 6.5 mm is only 5 kg/m2, with a thickness of 9.5 mm it will increase to 7.5 kg, 12.5 mm - 9.5 kg. A standard sheet of 1200x2500 mm contains three squares of area, so the rest is easy to imagine. GKLV on the ceiling is needed only if ceramic tiles are going to be placed there, and this only happens in bathrooms, and very rarely in. So if someone tries to convince you that GKLV or GKLVO is better, then do not listen to such an adviser - there is no such load on the sheets on the ceiling as on the ceiling, so it is quite possible to get by even with Chinese production.
Curving drywall by making cuts on one side
In order to bend a plasterboard sheet there are at least two methods, the first is used quite often, although it is time-consuming and requires a form. That is, they take the appropriate pattern, lay a sheet on it and soak it with wet rags - they keep it in this form for several hours, and then let it dry. It turns out that you need to spend almost a day on this.
Another way is to trim the paper, as shown in the photo above. But if the notches are with inside, then they will have to be cut into triangles - otherwise the sheet will not be bent. But personally, I don’t see the point in this - the incision can be made with outside- since the gypsum board will still be puttied and all the notches will be blocked. This method is very convenient, fast and does not require much physical effort.
Frame assembly
Leveling a wall with a chockline
The process of installing two-level plasterboard ceilings with your own hands begins with marking the walls and ceiling. First of all, you need to find the lowest place on the ceiling and go down from it by at least 30 mm, placing a mark on the wall. Now this mark is transferred to all angles using a water or laser level - this will be a guide. A control line is drawn along the perimeter of the room with a chocline - it determines the level of the frame of the first tier. Now you immediately need to decide in which direction the gypsum board sheets will be located and along this direction you cut 4 lines per sheet, although in total there will be 7 pieces per 2 sheets - each last profile on one gypsum board will simultaneously be the first for the other. I don’t recommend making a mesh - firstly, it’s expensive, and secondly, this method has outlived its usefulness.
The next step is to attach the UD around the perimeter of the room, focusing on the previously marked control line. The bottom of the profile should run exactly along the line - this is how you get an even and clear frame. But we should also not forget that there will be a chandelier and more than one backlight on the ceiling - you will immediately need to install wiring for them. It is advisable to pack all the wires in a metal or plastic corrugated cable channel, leaving only the leads exposed. Fix all this to the ceiling with hangers and only then can you install the UD profile on the wall.
If there are no mounting holes, then you need to make them yourself every 30 cm. For convenience, you can drill the wall directly through the profile - it’s convenient, and the holes match exactly. Dowels are best taken ø 6 mm impact type, but do not use the nails that come with the kit, but replace them with 70 mm self-tapping screws. There is one more nuance here: the UD profile does not need to be fixed along the entire perimeter, but only perpendicular to the CD profiles.
Recommendation. Sometimes you come across houses with hollow-core floors and the same walls, therefore the dowel with the screw already screwed in will not hold. To compensate for this, screw two self-tapping screws into the same dowel or add a twisted nail to the self-tapping screw. It will hold up great.
The suspension can only be attached through the holes indicated by the arrows.
After installing the UD, you can begin fixing the hangers to the rough ceiling along the previously drawn control lines. The distance along the line should be no more than 70 cm, but if the CD is joined along the length, then two hangers will be needed - one on each side. It is very important that they cannot be attached to the ceiling by the ears - this way they will be pulled back by the weight of the drywall and putty. The top photo shows which holes they need to be screwed through.
CD profiles are inserted into UD
Now you need to cut the CD profiles to the required length and simply insert them into the UD without screwing them to plumb lines - for ease of installation, they are cut 3-5 mm shorter so that there are no bends. Now all CDs need to be aligned in one plane: to do this, each profile is raised slightly above the desired level, using the central suspension of each of the guides. Everything is simple here - the ears easily bend under the CD and it stays like that for a while.
A nylon thread should be pulled across under the frame - this is very easy to do. Small self-tapping screws, 9-11 mm long, are screwed into the walls or into the UD, if you have installed them along the entire perimeter, and a thread is pulled between them. Moreover, in order for the tension to be good, they put a loop on one screw, and on the second they make a couple of turns and tighten it - the thread turns out like a string. Starting from one or the other edge, release the profiles and, but only so that they do not touch the thread and are about 1-2 mm higher. Tighten with self-tapping screws 9-11 mm long (their builders call them fleas, flea beetles, bedbugs). It is best if there are two screws on each side - this way the frame will not ring - if you tighten only one screw at a time, the play will still remain, and, for example, if you turn on loud music, the ceiling will ring.
Self-tapping screws for assembling a galvanized frame
Recommendation. For ease of work, it is better to choose screws not with a gimlet, but with a sharp cone at the end. And also, the screw must be held on the PH2 nozzle when it is in a vertical position, otherwise you will lose half the material on the floor.
Further actions depend on the structure of the structure you have planned - it all depends on the area of the lower level. It’s easier here - if the area is small, then the upper tier needs to be sewn up completely, and if it is large, then only those places that will be visible. Suspensions for the lower level are thrown over the CD of the upper tier and fixed with fleas. For example, if at least half of the ceiling is occupied by the bottom layer, then you can save on drywall.
Two-level plasterboard ceiling in the kitchen, masking ventilation
Drywall installation
The self-tapping screw should not fall through or protrude above the sheet
Let's start with the self-tapping screws - they must be metal, 25 mm long and must be screwed correctly. In no case should the cap stick out above the sheet - this will interfere with puttying and should not push through the paper - this will significantly weaken the fastener. It should be recessed by about half a millimeter, as shown in the top image. If you do not have experience working with drywall, then it is best to use the attachment shown in the photo in the “Materials” section. When tightened, the protective skirt of this attachment simply rests against the sheet, preventing the screw from moving further into the interior. The consumption of self-tapping screws per sheet is about 60 pieces, but this is only if you do not have to make joints from pieces - in this case, the consumption increases significantly.
In order to draw a regular circle or radius figure, you need a rigid compass
When the first, upper level is closed, you can move on to the second, but I warn you that it will only be beautiful if you make a drawing of the figure you need on the ceiling. For example, you want to make a smooth figure, and to draw it, some people use plinth or plastic lining, but the fact is that such materials will not give the correct radius. Sometimes they use a nylon thread tied to a self-tapping screw, but here this is also the wrong choice, since the nylon stretches and the radius is knocked down. It is best to use a metal profile or wooden slats, screwing it in the center to the ceiling directly to the drywall, after which all that remains is to attach a pencil to the end and scroll the profile - the circle will be perfect.
A flexible (cut) profile is screwed to the upper level
I have already told you in the section “What can be said about profiles” how to bend a galvanized metal profile - you just need to cut it into equal parts. If this is a circle, then, of course, it is advisable to reduce the fragments to 5 cm - this way its contours will be the smoothest. Such a profile is screwed to the drywall through one tab (cut parts), but if you come across a profile under the bottom, then you should drive a self-tapping screw there too, regardless of the order.
Advice. To make screwing the cut profile more convenient, you can simply bend the petals up and then, after fixing them, bend them back.
Screwing the UD profile for the second level
After the cut profile has been screwed in place, you can go to the wall and screw in the UD, but you must be sure to maintain the level so as not to spoil everything. Since the load in this place will be small, two dowels per meter of UD will be enough for fixation. If the wall turns out to be hollow, then you can use the same method that I mentioned above - screw two self-tapping screws into a dowel or add a twisted nail to one screw.
The CD figure is connected with pieces of the UD on the wall
In order to connect the figure with the wall, that is, to make a second tier, you will need pieces of CD that can be held on one suspension due to their short length. But in this case, it is necessary to adhere to one strict rule: the pieces of CD together with the hangers must be exactly opposite the upper profiles - this will make the fixation as rigid as possible. It will also help to properly secure the bottom layer. By the way, in order to fasten the suspension, 25 mm metal screws are enough - they will perfectly reach the profile through the drywall and will stay there perfectly.
In this case, the drywall can be screwed in place at its installation site
The lower tier is usually made from leftover plasterboard, since whole sheets are very rarely needed there. In this regard, it is much more convenient to trim them at the installation site - this turns out much more accurately and, naturally, more beautiful. This photo shows that there was a lot of even a square meter of material, that is, if you consider that the second level occupies only the outer parts of the ceiling, then this phenomenon repeats itself quite often, therefore, do not throw away waste anywhere until the entire work process is completed.
After trimming, the drywall needs to be thoroughly strengthened.
After trimming, the drywall must be thoroughly strengthened with self-tapping screws, and, given the fact that its edge rests on the cut profile, this must be done very carefully so as not to bend this profile inward. The cut edge is made with a regular metal file, although if possible, use a drywall hacksaw. The cut itself needs to be passed with a grater with sandpaper or a diamond mesh, but sometimes this is not enough, since the edges do not always break neatly. An ordinary paint knife comes to the rescue here, as it perfectly cuts off pieces (with little effort), and a grater finishes what it started.
In the top photo you can see that the assembly of the radius figure is nearing completion and only the strip in its inner part remains. The bend here is not very steep, so it is not necessary to cut the strip for bending - it will be enough to spray it on both sides with a spray bottle and leave for an hour or two. At this time, you can do other things - for example, in this image you can see that on the left side there is still space for non-suspended straight pieces of gypsum board. Below in the video you can see some of the secrets of the masters.
Installation of the second level of plasterboard ceiling with an uneven wall
Conclusion
It may seem that there is too much information, and you will not be able to install two-level plasterboard ceilings with your own hands. But this is a false impression - in fact, it is much easier than styling ceramic tiles or plumbing installation. So, if you are persistent, you will succeed!
Smooth surfaces are already going out of fashion today, and more and more often owners are wondering how to make a two-level ceiling from plasterboard sheet, arranging hidden lighting on it.
Planning how to make a two-level ceiling
If the standard solution, when the ceiling is an ideal plane, does not suit you, you need to use one already invented by someone unusual design, or create something of your own. In the first case, it will be easier for you, since most often you can find a diagram for assembling profiles for drywall and calculating the required number of sheets. However, the second option is attractive because upon successful completion of the work you will become the owner of a unique design.
Before you make a two-level ceiling, decide how it will fit into the design of the room. An additional level can serve for various purposes, for example, as a room zoning, and, of course, for placing additional lighting points. As a rule, they consist of a base, which can be either the ceiling itself with a perfectly smooth surface, or cladding with dry plaster, as well as a box in which the lighting is mounted.
There are two types of securing the entire structure. The first option is rigid fixation, when in addition to the main leveling layer, the second tier is also attached to the walls. Flaw this method is that during earthquakes the frame can deform, which will lead to displacement and cracking of the skin. The second type is a floating structure, without a rigid connection to the walls. Being strong in itself, it will only sway slightly during earthquake tremors, without disturbing the casing.
DIY two-level ceiling from A to Z
The manufacture of a structure in several tiers differs from standard leveling plasterboard sheathing only in the complexity of the frame. This must be taken into account and not immediately take on unusual design ideas, but try your hand at making a ceiling with a fairly simple geometry. Wavy, curved lines are considered the most difficult to implement; it is easier to work with rectangular shapes. Let's consider the principle of installation on standard solution box located around the perimeter of the room.
Two-level ceiling with lighting - step-by-step diagram
Step 1: Preliminary marking
We select the distance from the ceiling at which the lower level (more distant from the floor) will be located, place markers on the wall and mark a line along them with a coated cord.
Step 2: Determining the position of the back wall of the niche
Since the second tier in our project will become part of a box that goes around the perimeter of the ceiling, we determine in advance where the end of the structure will be located, facing the center of the room. We beat off a line along the markings, along which we in turn attach the guides. Thus, we have two rectangles of profiles available: one along the wall, the second a little higher, along the ceiling.
Step 3: Installation of jumpers
Behind the ceiling guides on the wall side, we attach hangers to the ceiling, after which we mount jumpers to them and the wall guides so that they reach exactly to the ceiling profiles. To do this, we pull a cord under the latter, along which we will orient the scraps of the aluminum U-shaped profile of the appropriate length.
Step 4: Installing the Lower Level Rail
After all the jumpers are fixed to the suspensions, we mount guides on them exactly along the ceiling profiles.
To do this, we use a plumb line or a laser level; you can also navigate using a previously stretched cord.
The main thing is that the ceiling and bottom profiles are in the same vertical plane.
Step 5: Trimming the Rear Alcove Shelf
Two guides located one above the other form the basis for the end of the box, which will cover the perimeter of the room and at the same time become the back wall of the niche, after the latter is formed. We need to cut several strips from a sheet of drywall, the width of which will be the distance from the ceiling to the edge of the lower profile.
We use self-tapping screws to secure the prepared fragments of dry plaster along the entire inner end of the frame.
Step 6: Marking for the top profile
Directly on the fixed strips of drywall, we mark the position of the profiles under the upper level and use the markers to mark the lines with coated thread.
Then, according to the markings made, we attach the guides, measuring along the long sides of the structure 60-centimeter sections for the profiles that will be installed at the specified pitch.
The next marking can be done either with a pencil directly on the ceiling, or with the help of a cord attached to self-tapping screws screwed into the strips of drywall.
Step 7: Installation of the upper level frame
We cut the metal profiles along the length of the short side of the internal end cladding of the structure, and then insert them into the guides along the cords or drawn lines, securing them to the ceiling with direct hangers.
We estimate the location of the sheets of dry plaster on the upper level, for which it can be useful, and at the places of their joints we install jumpers between the base profiles.
Step 8: Sheathing the first tier with plasterboard
We fasten the drywall to the guides, screwing in the screws at the joints in a checkerboard pattern. Also, fastening elements must be used in the center of each sheet, the width of which is 120 centimeters, that is, fastening to the intermediate profile.
Step 9: Processing the seams and edges of the first level sheathing
We carefully putty all the corner joints of the plasterboard sheets, processing the edges and joints.
We smooth out the putty coating as much as possible; when it dries, we rub it with fine sandpaper. In other words, we prepare the above areas in advance for painting or another type of finishing.
Step 10: Sheathing the second tier
We mount the drywall on the lower level guides so that the edges of the sheet fragments extend beyond the end of the box by 10-15 centimeters.
It is at this stage, before you finally assemble the two-level ceiling with your own hands, that it is advisable to install lighting points by attaching lamps to the end trim. However, you can go in a simple way using an LED strip placed in a niche. Having decided in favor of the second option, we simply sheathe the frame, forming a second level and niche by removing sheets of dry plaster. All protrusions that make up the shelf must be at the same level.
Pin your profile
It is behind it that you can hide the LED strip or other lighting sources. We screw narrow strips of drywall to the guides, trying to completely hide the aluminum profiles.
All trims made for dry plaster cladding must be the same width. Next, you can begin puttying work.
Attention! The width of the light strip provided by hidden lighting sources, as well as its intensity and brightness, directly depends on the depth of the niche and the height of the side.
Installation of two-level ceilings with lighting
As a rule, when there is a desire to arrange additional lighting after the ceiling is covered with plasterboard, light sources such as soffits are used. They are convenient because they can be directed to any point in the room, especially if placed in the corners. However, if the installation of two-level ceilings is yet to be done, you can take care of other lighting options.
In particular, point lighting sources are very interesting, the modifications of which are very diverse. But, due to the fact that in a niche the lamp is usually hidden from prying eyes, you don’t have to go to great lengths to select the most beautiful spotlight. Can be installed in a niche and soffit. It's a completely different matter - led strip, which is a variety of tiny light sources on a flexible base. There are also diodes enclosed in a transparent tubular shell. Most suitable option it is better to choose before building a two-level ceiling in order to connect the devices to the electrical network during the installation process.
