Plasterboard ceiling lighting device. Plasterboard ceiling with perimeter lighting

Today, drywall is used for a variety of types of work; it is especially widespread in the cladding of planes. In addition to wall cladding, it is used to create various structures. You can make a ceiling out of it with your own hands, using various lighting effects. This material has its advantages and disadvantages.

Let's look at the features of installing a plasterboard ceiling with lighting.

Peculiarities

Drywall is a heat-resistant building material that is well suited for creating a flat surface and forming three-dimensional shapes. This material can be easily processed, including cutting any contour and drilling holes.

Depending on the desired shape, single-level, two-level and multi-level ceilings of regular and figured types are made from it. Single-level ceilings have the main advantage of simplicity and reliability.

This option is mainly used for small rooms, except for the bathroom and kitchen, where high humidity can destroy the material. In the absence of moisture, a plasterboard ceiling can last for decades, which is why such structures today decorate different rooms of a modern person’s home.

With the addition of bright lighting, multi-level structures look chic and voluminous. Complex elements of a wide variety of shapes, decoration, various options inserts are a small part of the designer's imagination. Lighting devices contribute to achieving a magnificent effect in the design of structures.. Curly ceilings are installed using non-standard elements in the form of flowers, butterflies, curls, clouds, stars.

Backlight types

There are two types of lighting for plasterboard ceilings.

Let's look at the features of each.

Open backlight

These lamps are inserted into the holes prepared for them in the ceiling cladding. Sometimes they are simply hung from the ceiling. Most often, this type of lighting is used in single-level structures..

It is necessary to take into account the weight of pendant lighting: lighting weighing more than 10 kg may not be able to withstand and ruin the entire casing.

Hidden

To make a ceiling with closed lighting, you need to carefully calculate the layout of the lamps. Such systems are made when installing multi-level ceilings. Lighting fixtures are built into specially made niches. To create a cozy atmosphere and original atmosphere in the premises the flow of light is directed not directly into the room, but onto the ceiling plane, reflecting light into the common space.

Style and design

The design of plasterboard ceilings is often complex. At the same time, this is an interesting task in the process of renovating a room. When solving it, you need to pay attention to the functional purpose of the room, furniture, and general decoration. This will help rationally divide the space into zones and save you from visual errors and negative perception of the room. You can get confused by the variety of design options using lighting.

You need to carefully consider the design if you want the end result to be a bright and updated interior. A single-level ceiling can be decorated to your taste (for example, painted with enamel, wallpaper on top). It is advisable to use light colors, dark shades will visually reduce the space.

Multi-tiered structures in a classic interior are used in public halls, exhibition galleries and other institutions. Intricate reliefs will decorate children's rooms, spacious rooms, and bedrooms.

You can make the ceiling covering in the form of a wave. Drawings or, for example, a standard circle are also suitable. The figured design will amaze children and adults with its unique sophistication.

It will be great color combination ceiling with the colors of the walls, furnishings, patterns made in the same style look good. You can enhance the design of your home by equipping the ceiling with lighting. Lamps will add more light and comfort.

Necessary tools and components

To install such structures, you will not need complex tools; this does not require special knowledge and skills.

To equip the ceiling with lighting, you should prepare:

screwdriver set;
drill;
pliers.

To install the ceiling itself you need a little more equipment. These include:

screwdriver;
self-tapping screws;
hacksaw;
metal scissors;
building level;
roulette;
pencil.

In addition, it is advisable to have a design diagram and plasterboard material, as well as light bulbs and profiles.

How to do it?

Having decided on the choice of design, lighting option, color design future design, installation can be done.

The usual list of works:

marking, frame manufacturing;
covering material;
installation of lamps.

Let's look at the main points:

Need to measure required distance from the ceiling and draw horizontal markings around the perimeter of the entire room. The size of the gap between the ceiling and the marking line depends on how high the walls allow it (preferably about half a meter). To do this, use a tape measure, level and pencil.
Along the markings it is necessary to fasten the profile to the wall surface. The main parts must be inserted into the profile and attached to the ceiling with special hangers. Profile elements should be inserted at intervals of approximately 400 mm.
To strengthen the structure using crab connectors, profile jumpers must be added between the main parts.
Then gently cover the frame with sheets of plasterboard using self-tapping screws. It is better to cut drywall with a sharp construction knife. The cut side of the sheets should be processed with a special plane and sanded with sandpaper, removing small flaws. The result should be a complete basis for translating the intended design into reality.

If the project involves a multi-tiered structure, then you need to start creating a niche:

It is necessary to draw the outline of the upcoming level on the main tier of the ceiling.
Stepping back the thickness of the plasterboard from the contour, you need to attach the profile to the ceiling.
After this, it is necessary to cut the profile elements the size of the height of the second tier. Then they need to be screwed with self-tapping screws to the main profile (they will be used as hangers).
Another profile must be attached to the bottom of the hangers.
The resulting frame must be supplemented with jumpers, combining them into one structure.
After this, the wires must be brought out in the right places.
Then the frame and sides of the tier must be covered with plasterboard.

At the final stage, all that remains is to putty the seams of the sheathing material, remove the screw heads and mask the resulting flaws. After puttying, you need to sand the entire surface in the necessary places, giving the base evenness.

You can finish it in any acceptable way.

To repeat the contour of the tier with a profile, you need to construct it in pieces of a certain size, the same applies to the plasterboard elements of the level side.

In the bedroom

The most cozy room designed to relax and unwind with body and soul - a bedroom. It must be comfortable, while corresponding to fashion trends.

The type of ceiling plays a big role in the design of such a place. The square version of the design looks quite attractive.

Single-tier

This option is the simplest; it can be done beautifully by adding lighting effects. But with such a ceiling, the possibilities are limited, and it is not always possible to realize everything you want. Therefore, such designs are often simple.

Two tiers

These designs will give the bedroom visual volume and completely change the appearance of the entire room. Two-level plasterboard ceilings, made professionally, will create a comfortable, unique environment.

Multi-level

These systems are the most difficult to manufacture, Such devices will give the bedroom a stately chic and add luxury, they imply the use of various decorative forms (for example, arches, moldings) in decoration.

Using multi-level ceilings and lighting you can successfully divide the bedroom into separate functional areas by highlighting the bed area. The formation of different levels can visually play up the disadvantages of the ceiling, making it higher or lower.

A variety of lighting options makes it possible to make multi-level ceilings luxurious and sophisticated. That is why they have become key design elements of plasterboard structures today. In the design of the ceiling for the bedroom, it is better to use rounded and non-strict shapes: they will bring peace and tenderness to the atmosphere.

In the hallway

The hallway is the face of every home. Her appearance should make a favorable impression. The furnishings and decoration should be combined with each other as much as possible. It would be good if they were made in a general style. The ceiling must be made in the same design.

A backlit plasterboard ceiling, of course, will not turn a microscopic hallway into a huge room, but if you calculate the design correctly, you can create a visual feeling of spaciousness, which is present in large rooms.

Many designers recommend ceilings with distinct geometric features for such corridors..

Niches correct forms located in the center, visually expand the space of the room. If the hallway is narrow and also long, it is better to make geometric niches in several places.

In the spacious hallway you can give free rein to your imagination. There is an opportunity for experimentation and improvisation. There will be various options for the design of the ceiling canvas, since the area provides everything to create a masterpiece of any complexity and shape. Due to quick installation and the ability to implement the most daring ideas, such ceiling surfaces have achieved recognition among design masters.

The soaring multi-level ceiling with a side looks great in the hallway. It needs to be supplemented with diode strip. All these tricks can create a real masterpiece even from the smallest and cramped hallway.

Although drywall is easy to work with, there are some helpful tips for creating harmony in your design.

Let us note the main criteria:

Room height

This is the main parameter; it can significantly affect the design capabilities. At low ceilings the slightest loss of space can negatively affect the interior as a whole. Already exist ready-made options multi-tiered structures suitable for low rooms.

A variety of plasterboard designs can make it possible to create a beautiful ceiling even in low rooms.

Lighting

If the room does not penetrate well natural light, you need to concentrate on lighting and choosing a ceiling option. Additional lighting with adjustable luminous flux level will add the necessary lighting.

Plasterboard ceiling systems provide significant room for creative imagination. Particularly popular are designs equipped with internal lighting.

General information

A plasterboard ceiling with lighting is a very popular design solution. What makes him different is external beauty and practicality. To arrange the electrical part, you can use various combinations of different lighting fixtures. As a result, it is possible not only to change the intensity of the light flux, but also to influence the spatial perception of the room.

Strengths of using a suspended ceiling with lighting:

Creating an absolutely flat base on the surface of the base without the use of labor-intensive screed and plaster.
Significant simplification of the procedure for preparing a rough foundation. It is allowed that the same finish, differences, cracks, etc. remain on it.
The ability to conveniently camouflage various communications under the suspended fabric - cables, wires, pipes, ventilation ducts etc.
High decorative possibilities. This is especially true for creating a multi-level suspended ceiling made of plasterboard with lighting.

The designs also have disadvantages:

Lowering the overall height of the room by about 10 cm due to the frame. This applies to both suspended and illuminated plasterboard ceilings.
The complexity of the procedure. In any case, you will need an assistant and some experience in arranging electrical systems. If you install and switch lighting fixtures incorrectly, this can have very dire consequences. The resulting short circuit sometimes causes a fire.

When developing a plan for installing a plasterboard ceiling with lighting, it is recommended to pay special attention to the following important points:

Using multiple lighting zones in a room. As doctors say, for eye health it is better to use several low-power lamps than one bright lamp.
The layout drawing of spotlights is developed in the most careful manner. The kitchen needs separate lighting work surface and place of eating. In the bedroom, contour lighting around the bed has worked well. Additional lighting for cabinets, bookshelves and desks is often used. Lighting zoning is also used in the hallway: the hanger, mirrors and ceiling perimeter are equipped with soffits.
Light imitation of sun glare, northern lights and starry skies has excellent decorative characteristics.
Lighting fixtures must be positioned in such a way that they do not dazzle the eyes.
Thanks to correct placement illumination can be used to adjust the proportions of the room. If you direct light onto the walls, there will be an effect of visual expansion of the space.
Each group of lamps in different functional areas of the room needs an autonomous switch.
It is advisable to decorate small rooms with multi-level plasterboard ceilings with LED backlight.
Before making a plasterboard ceiling with lighting, a detailed diagram of the future structure is developed. It contains information about all sizes, types and locations of lamps.

What types of lamps are there?

In order to make a backlit ceiling, as a rule, the following types of lamps are used:

Spot. With their help, night lighting, emergency lighting, room zoning, work area lighting, etc. are installed. This type of lighting is budget-friendly and is suitable for lighting plasterboard ceilings of any configuration. Such schemes are very easy to implement: as a rule, such work is carried out on their own, without the involvement of a professional electrician. To achieve the final aesthetics of the finished structure, it is necessary to arrange the holes in the plasterboard board as carefully as possible, strictly according to the diameter of the lamp. Spotlights most often play a supporting role in combination with the main lighting.
Chandelier (regular or LED). Products of this type are presented in a significant variety of shapes and colors. To install them, no wiring replacement is required. In combination with suspended plasterboard systems, surface-mounted and pendant lamps are not always the optimal solution. The fact is that their use further aggravates the effect of the lost height of the room.

daylight. They are mainly installed in non-residential premises. They are inexpensive and easy to install. They consume little electrical energy. The service life of fluorescent lamps, in the presence of a stable voltage, is quite long.
Fiber optic. These lamps are an innovative development that allows you to create the effect of a starry sky. Installation of fiber optic luminaires is expensive and labor intensive. These systems look best in rooms with high ceilings.
LED strips. An excellent option for arranging multi-level ceiling systems. These inexpensive lighting fixtures have a number of strengths. They are able to create uniform diffuse lighting, replacing a conventional 200 W lamp. Installing the tape is very simple: one of its sides is specially equipped with an adhesive base. LED strip in a plasterboard ceiling demonstrates high energy efficiency and durability.

How to choose LED strip

Light-emitting diode (LED) strip is a narrow flexible strip no more than 9 mm wide. Conductive tracks, diodes and resistors are applied on top of the product.

When choosing suitable option To install a plasterboard ceiling with LED lighting, it is recommended to pay attention to the following points:

Diode type. The most common diodes are SMD3528 and SMD5050. The first variety (3528) always gives one color of illumination, the second can be white or multi-colored. The SMD5050 diode is more expensive and consists of three crystals, which ensures its durability. SMD3528 tapes last less due to the gradual burnout of the phosphor. This causes the light to appear blue.
The frequency of concentration of LEDs on the surface of the strip. The most common bands are with a frequency of 30,60,120 light bulbs per 1 running meter. As the density increases, the brightness of the illumination increases. To equip a plasterboard ceiling with perimeter lighting, the density of the SMD3528 tape should be at the level of 30 or 60 diodes. If the goal is to illuminate a stretch glossy ceiling or partially illuminate a room, it is recommended to use SMD5050 tape with a density of 60 diodes or more.
Shades. To achieve multi-colored backlighting, you need to purchase 5050 strips, the base of which contains blue, red and green diodes.
Degree of protection. Belts can be equipped additional protection from exposure to moisture. Such products are covered with special silicone insulation, which allows them to effectively resist flooding from above.
Equipment. LED strips must be equipped with a power supply. As an additional equipment, SMD5050 tapes can contain a system remote control and controller. You also need to choose skirting boards for the LED strip that will optimally fit the ceiling.

What types of plasterboard ceilings with lighting are there?

A plasterboard ceiling with LED strip can be arranged open and in a closed way. In the first case, it will take much less work: just make neat holes in the right places on the slab and mount the lamps there. The main thing is to adhere to the recommendations on the weight of the lighting devices used: the total figure should not exceed 10 kg. This is due to weakness frame structure and sheathing sheets.

How to make a plasterboard ceiling with lighting

To install a plasterboard ceiling with hidden LED strip lighting, you will need the following tools and materials:

Plasterboard boards.
Components for constructing the frame - guides, wall profile, ceiling direct hangers.
Fastenings. Dowels, screws, etc.
Fastening mesh for additional reinforcement of joint areas.
Metal scissors, pliers, screwdriver, knife, screwdriver and hammer drill.
A simple pencil, a building level, twine.
Set of spatulas and putty.
LED strip kit. In addition to the lamp itself, there is a power supply, wiring with a cross-section of at least 0.75 mm, and insulating materials.

Installation of the frame of the upper level of the suspended ceiling with lighting is carried out in the following sequence of operations:

An indentation of 10 cm is made from the floor slab and a solid line is drawn along the perimeter of the room being finished.
The starting profile is screwed along the broken line. It acts as a guide for the main profile, which is fixed to the ceiling using hangers. The fastening installation step is about 40 cm.
The elements of the main profile are reinforced with additional jumpers, which are cut from the same profile. This makes the frame more rigid.
The finished structure is sewn up with plasterboard boards using self-tapping screws.

After this, they move on to arranging the lighting box:

The base surface is equipped with a drawing of the lower level configurations. The applied marking acts as a guide for installing the guide profile. The shelves of the ceiling element should be directed downwards, and the shelves of the wall element should be directed towards the opposite wall. To fix the ceiling guide, the profile of the main frame is used.
Suspension stands are made from the main profile. When cutting blanks, take the height of the lower level ceiling as a guide.
One of the sides of the suspension is equipped with a cut (4-5 cm), followed by bending the back wall inward. When calculating the number of hangers, the dimensions of the ceiling are taken into account. Installation step – 1 hanger/50-60 cm.
Ready-made elements mounted inside the guide profile with the whole end. Self-tapping screws are used for fixation.
The ceiling profile also serves as a material for the manufacture of lintels, the length of which corresponds to the length of the lower part of the box. The number of such elements must match the number of hanging posts.
The workpieces are immersed inside the wall guide profile, fixing them with self-tapping screws. When joining the reverse edge of the workpiece to the hanger, it is necessary to maintain an angle of 90 degrees.
The result is a skeleton of a suspended ceiling niche with backlighting and a protruding profile. All protruding parts are decorated with plugs from the same ceiling profile. Plasterboard sheets will subsequently be installed on top of the finished base.

Installation of plasterboard sheathing

Pre-prepared narrow strips of drywall are installed as follows:

Plasterboard elements are screwed along the niche shelves.
Next they sheathe vertical sections designs: the sheets here are installed on suspension stands and ceiling guides.
At the next stage, the horizontal area of the niche is sutured.
At the end of the procedure, plasterboard strips are used to decorate the end sections of the box, inside of which the lighting will be placed. The upper and lower levels must be separated by at least 50 mm.

Electrical connection

List of operations on how to make lighting in a plasterboard ceiling:

There are marks on the LED strip where you can make cuts.
Switching of individual strips of tape is carried out using a soldering iron or special LED connectors.
When choosing a power supply, it is recommended to provide a power reserve of 20-30%.
Installation on metal sections of the frame requires the mandatory use of insulating pads. Before starting installation work, the system must be de-energized.
When installing a multicolor diode, it is important not to confuse the polarity: the blue and black wires are negative, and the red wire is positive.
Before final fixation of the tape, it must be tested for performance.
Long sections of tape serial connection are switched differently. As practice shows, greater safety is demonstrated by parallel connection sections from 5 m long. For this purpose, wires with a cross section of 1.5 mm are used. In this case, the power supply must be more powerful than usual.

Finishing

The finished plasterboard structure is impregnated with a primer and puttied, paying special attention to the joints. After drying, sanding and painting are carried out. Instead of paint, you can use wallpaper.

Various structures are made from plasterboard, including ceilings. This material gives unlimited possibilities in terms of creating all kinds of surfaces, shapes, niches and false partitions. One of these original designs is a floating plasterboard ceiling with lighting. At first glance at the ceiling surface, it seems that the ceiling is simply suspended in the air, not attached to the walls. We will talk about the advantages and disadvantages of such structures, their varieties and installation sequence.

Types of floating ceilings

The floating plasterboard ceiling with lighting in the photo looks beautiful and original. It seems that the coating is not fixed rigidly, but as if suspended above the floor. In fact, this effect is achieved due to the fact that a sheet of drywall is attached to a hidden frame so that there is a shelf around the perimeter for installing LED lighting.

It is the hidden lighting of the ceiling and the special design of the tier that creates the floating effect. The LED strip, laid along the perimeter of the suspension system, casts light onto the upper level, resulting in the impression that the ceiling is not rigidly attached.

There are several types of floating ceiling coverings:

The easiest to manufacture are single-level floating ceilings. LED lighting is installed around the perimeter of the room in a niche behind the hanging system.
Two-level coatings consist of a main coating plane and a lower tier, which can have any shape. The lighting is installed around the perimeter of the lower level.
Multi-level systems are the most difficult to implement. There may be different options for installing the backlight and main lighting sources.

Important! Hovering effect suspended covering impossible to achieve without using backlighting.

Types of backlights

GCR ceiling lighting can be open or hidden:

in the first case, conventional built-in lighting devices are used, which are installed in the tiers of the ceiling;
Hidden lighting of the plasterboard ceiling is performed in a shelf of one of the tiers, where the LED strip is placed (the strip itself is not visible, but the light from it falls freely on the upper level of the ceiling thanks to the open shelf).

The following lighting devices are used for illumination:

LED strip It comes in a variety of colors and is easy to install. There are single-color and multi-color ribbons. The latter require additional installation of an RGB controller and the purchase of a control panel.
Neon tubes are practically not used in residential premises because they emit characteristic noise during operation.
Fiber optic threads They are economical and have an impressive service life. With their help they create on the ceiling different effects, for example, “starry sky”.

Also, due to its functional purpose, ceiling lighting can be used as a source of main lighting in the room. This option is more suitable for bedrooms where there is no need for bright light.

Zone lighting helps to divide a room into separate functional zones. It is usually installed in a lower tier above the dining or sleeping area, bar counter, work area in the kitchen, or divides the living room into two parts.

Decorative lighting creates a certain mood in the room. It should not be very bright, it is intended to highlight certain elements on the ceiling, emphasize the outlines of the tiers, or create a floating effect.

Advantages and disadvantages of floating ceilings

A suspended plasterboard ceiling has the following advantages:

When the lighting is turned on, the room appears visually higher and more spacious.
When installing a ceiling, you can realize a variety of design fantasies.
By installing LED lighting you save on electricity.
You can create a floating plasterboard ceiling with lighting yourself. It is important to follow the instructions exactly and have minimal construction skills.
Such designs and special lighting create an atmosphere of comfort and warmth in the room.
Suspended ceilings make it convenient to hide uneven base surfaces, protruding building structures and utility lines.
In addition to LED lighting, you can install built-in lamps in pendant systems or use hanging lighting.

The disadvantages of such ceilings include some installation difficulties that beginners may encounter. In addition, a suspended ceiling slightly steals the height of the room, so it is not suitable for low apartments. For self-installation LED strip requires certain knowledge and skills.

Installation sequence

Before constructing the structure, you need to make a drawing to scale, which will show all the levels, the frame diagram, the installation locations of lamps and fasteners, as well as sections and heights of the levels.

In principle, the base surface does not need special preparation, since it will be hidden behind the suspended structure. But if the old ceiling covering is fragile, then it needs to be removed. Old paint and wallpaper are cleaned off with a spatula, the whitewash is washed off, and flimsy plaster is knocked down with improvised tools.

After this, all the cracks and cracks in the ceiling are sealed. If this surface is to be used as the top tier of a two-level coating, then it is puttied, sanded and primed. After this, the ceiling is ready for painting and installation of the frame.

Materials and tools

To make a floating ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands, stock up on the following materials:

ceiling and guide profiles;
plasterboard ceiling 9.5 mm thick;
metal screws;
dowels and screws;
single-level crab connectors;
construction tape;
putty;
painting mesh;
dowel-nails;
LED strip;
perforated hangers;
corner fasteners;
primer;
insulating tape;
wires.

You will also need the following tools:

tape measure, pencil;
construction and laser level;
screwdriver and hammer drill;
ladder;
beating cord;
construction knife;
spatulas;
containers for different mixtures;
metal scissors;
hammer;
brushes and rollers.

Separately, it is worth considering the issue of choosing a lighting device. For floating structures made of gypsum plasterboard, you can use lamps with incandescent lamps, halogen devices or LED strips. In principle, there are no restrictions on the power of lamps. It is important to lay wiring in insulating boxes.

Marking the room

First you need to mark the walls and ceiling of the room. Since the suspended structure will consist of two tiers, you need to determine the height of each of them.

After that, we proceed to markup:

Using a laser level, we measure the height of all corners in the room and find the lowest one. From this angle downwards we measure the height of each level. We will get two points.
Using the same laser level, we transfer the resulting points to other corners in the room. Using a tapping cord, we connect all the points with horizontal lines.
On the base ceiling we draw lines along which we will attach the longitudinal profiles of the frame. We draw them in increments of 40 or 60 cm, which is a multiple of the width of the plasterboard sheet equal to 120 cm. A reinforced frame with a slatted pitch of 40 cm is made for heavy structures with several levels.
We place points along the lines on the ceiling in 60 cm increments. Perforated hangers will be attached in these places.
On the base surface we draw the outlines of the lower tier. If you need to make a smooth line, then it is more convenient to draw it from several conjugate circles. We tie their radii to reference points (corners of the room or its center).

Frame assembly

To make a plasterboard ceiling with lighting around the perimeter, we begin by assembling the frame.

We work in this order:

According to the markings on the walls of the room, we fix the guide profiles. If the lower tier is located along the walls of the room, then we also attach the NP profile for it to the walls. If it is located in the center of the room, it will be constructed after installing the upper-level frame. We attach the profiles to dowels and self-tapping screws, which we install in increments of 30 cm.
Next, we attach perforated hangers to the base ceiling. To fix each load-bearing element, we use a pair of dowel-nails.
Then we cut the ceiling profiles according to the dimensions of the room, insert the ends into the groove of the guide elements on the wall. In the central part of the slats we fasten them with short self-tapping screws to the perforated hangers. Using the same self-tapping screws, we screw the longitudinal strips to the NP profiles.

We build the frame of the lower level in the same way, but along the line of difference between the tiers, when assembling the frame, we make longitudinal profiles to form a shelf for hidden lighting. We put an NP strip on the open end of the PP profiles. If you need to make curved outlines of the lower level, then cut the shelves of the NP slats with equal steps and then bend the bar.

Important! We lay the wiring for the LED strip and other lamps at the stage of assembling the supporting frame.

Fastening drywall

First we sheathe the upper level of the ceiling. We fasten sheets of drywall from the corner of the room. Each sheet must be fixed to 3 or 4 longitudinal slats of the frame. The joint of adjacent gypsum boards should be exactly in the middle of the batten.

Important! Be sure to shift the end joint of the sheets in adjacent rows so that the 4 corners of the plates do not converge at one point.

We screw the fasteners around the perimeter of the sheet in increments of 15 cm, and place them from the edge at a distance of no more than 2.5 cm. Self-tapping screws in the central part of the sheet can be screwed in in increments of 25 cm. We recess the caps of the fasteners into the body of the material to a depth of 1 mm. If necessary, we cut the slab. At the cut site, you need to chamfer 1/3 of the thickness of the material at 45 degrees. It is needed to facilitate puttying seams and laying reinforcing tape.

We hem the second level in the same way. But we make an open shelf along its perimeter. We cover the end of the shelf with a strip of gypsum sheet to a height of 3-4 cm.

If the edge of the lower tier is curved, then the gypsum board strip can be bent in two ways:

make cuts on one side of the material to a third of the thickness in equal increments, then bend the strip;
walk along the back side of the plasterboard with a roller with needles, moisten the surface with water, after soaking, the strip bends easily.

After covering the entire frame, we carefully putty the seams using serpyanka reinforcing tape. We lay it in a layer of putty mortar. You also need to putty the recesses from the screws. After the putty has dried, sand the surface and prime it. If the structure is to be painted, then the entire gypsum board ceiling will be puttied with a finishing mixture. When dry, sand it again and soak it with primer twice.

Backlight installation

Before installation, the LED strip is cut or soldered to obtain illumination of the required length. The tape can only be cut using special markings in the form of a dotted line and scissors. When soldering individual pieces, observe polarity.

After this, the prepared tape is connected, laid out on the floor to check its functionality. The LED lighting is then placed in a shelf on the ceiling. To do this, remove the paper strip from the adhesive coating on the back side of the LED strip. The backlight is glued to the base, placed on a gypsum board shelf. The tape is connected to the power supply and RGB controller.

Finishing

As finishing Soaring ceilings are often painted with interior paints. Also ceiling structures can be covered with wallpaper or self-adhesive film. Please note that light glossy surfaces They better reflect light from the backlight, making the room visually taller and more spacious.

If it is decided to use painting as a finishing touch, then the ceiling in the room with normal humidity Can be painted with water-based paint. If such structures are installed in the kitchen or in a place with changes in humidity, then it is better to choose silicone or acrylic paint.

Creating a beautiful, cozy interior is probably the desire of every person who is concerned about renovating their house or apartment. Among the important stages of improving premises, it is undoubtedly necessary to highlight the creation of a ceiling.

Today there are various options for ceilings: from suspended to multi-level. Of course, each of them has its own advantages, but backlit plasterboard ceilings can become a real decoration of the interior. What is their dignity?

Advantages of illuminated ceilings

Illuminated plasterboard has one undoubted advantage - this combination allows, with a moderate combination of beauty and functionality, to decorate your own home in a stylish and tasteful manner.
Drywall is a fairly simple material to install and use. If you have some skills in electricity, then there will be no problems creating ceilings with any lighting.

The ceiling will be smooth, since the sheet has a smooth and even surface.
Drywall is an environmentally friendly product - it does not emit toxins.
Drywall is fireproof.

Design features

Despite the external effectiveness and complexity, creating such ceilings will not be difficult. Even if you do not have the necessary skills in working with electrical appliances, you can use simple recommendations that will allow you to quite successfully install lighting in your plasterboard ceiling.

Based on the design and arrangement of lamps, such ceilings can be divided into main groups:

with open lighting;
with hidden lighting.

Ceilings with open lighting

The first group of ceilings assumes that the lamps need to be built into the ceiling using specially created holes in the plasterboard ceiling, or a simple suspension to it is carried out.

Keep this in mind! For plasterboard ceilings, the weight of pendant lamps should not exceed 10 kg. This recommendation is due to the low load-bearing capacity of the cladding and frame of this ceiling..

Ceilings with hidden lighting

In the second case, the lamps must be placed in specially equipped niches, which are located between two ceiling levels. As a result, the light from the lamps does not spread directly into the room, but goes to the ceiling and is reflected from it, creating a unique atmosphere in the room.

Thanks to such lighting, comfort is created in the room, it is emphasized, and your home takes on a sophisticated look.

When creating a plasterboard ceiling with lighting, first of all, you should decide on the lighting option and the shape of the ceiling. For small rooms, it is advisable to use a single-level design, since a multi-level option will significantly reduce the height of the room, which will lose 8-15 cm. If the room is large, then you can build one where your design ideas will be involved.

Types of lighting that can be implemented

When creating a plasterboard ceiling with lighting, it is necessary to optimally select lamps for lighting. In most cases, fluorescent or LED lamps, however, other options can be used.

Before starting work, you should evaluate all the advantages and disadvantages of different lighting and choose the one that suits you best.

Types of backlight:

lamps;
LED backlight;
chandelier;
duralight;
neon lighting.

LED backlight

For lighting, LED lamps or LED strip can be used. In the case of plasterboard ceilings with side niches in several levels, the lighting in the form of a strip will look quite interesting; it will be very practical and functional.

The backlight can be made in different colors; to control the modes, you can use an RGB controller or dimmer.

Advantages of LED backlight:

no heating of structural elements;
low power consumption;
ease of lighting placement.

Flaws:

low level of room illumination;
rewiring required;
it is necessary to install a step-down transformer.

Lamps

This option is very common. In this case, the installation of lamps occurs pointwise. To place them, markings are made and holes of the required diameter are cut for the lamps. Their number, as well as their location, is selected based on the purpose of the room, ceiling design, and natural lighting.

Advantages of lamps:

modern design;
Easy to install on your own.

Flaws:

low light level;
lamps that use incandescent lamps consume a significant amount of energy and also become very hot;
rewiring is required.

Classic chandelier

This option is the simplest, because you only need to choose the color, shape, number of lamps, and then use the old wiring to connect the chandelier. It is recommended to use energy-saving lamps. To combine, you can use warm or cool lights.

Advantages of the chandelier:

the simplest and fastest installation;
high level of illumination.

Flaws:

visual reduction in ceiling height;
a significant contrast with the modern interior.

Neon lighting

Thanks to neon lamps you can create a pretty look with smooth contours. At the same time you can create unique design, using various color solutions, of which there are plenty.

Neon lighting can be placed in wall niches or along the ceiling of the room. The installation technology in this case is similar to installing LED strips, however, in this case, professional skill in performing this work may be required.

Advantages:

large selection of colors;
modern design.

Flaws:

complexity ;
the need for professional skills.

Duralight

The peculiarity of this type of lighting is that the tubes with incandescent lamps (duralight) are arranged in series and the failure of one bulb will require replacement of the adjacent section. It is advisable to use modern duralight, where LEDs are used instead of incandescent light bulbs. This will also reduce energy consumption, increase the resource and brightness of lighting.

Duralight is often used as additional lighting.

Advantages:

one of the cheapest options.

Flaws:

low durability and reliability of duralight when using incandescent lamps.

Frame installation instructions

First of all, to create a plasterboard niche for hidden lighting, you need to use a metal profile.

Installation of the first level frame is carried out as follows:

You need to step back from the ceiling about 100 mm and draw a horizontal line around the perimeter of the room. In order for the line to be smooth and correct, you need to use a hydraulic level or laser level.
The starting profile should be secured to the wall along the line.
Then you need to insert the main profile into the starting profile and additionally secure it to the ceiling using hangers (distancers). The profile is fixed at intervals of approximately 40 cm.
To impart rigidity to the structure using crab connectors, jumpers made from the same profile are installed between the main profiles.
Using crabs and hangers, profiles and jumpers are connected.

Finally, the frame is covered with plasterboard sheets using self-tapping screws. As a result, the first basic level of the ceiling structure will be ready

The next step will be the installation of a niche for lighting. To create a niche for hidden lighting, it is necessary to build a second level.

Second level frame

At the first level of the ceiling, you should draw the boundary of the second.
It is necessary to retreat 4-6 cm (according to the width of the cornice), after which the starting profile should be fixed to the ceiling.
Using metal scissors, you need to cut sections of the main profile that will have a size of . They should be secured with self-tapping screws into the starting guide; as a result, they will play the role of suspensions.
You should also secure the starting profile from the bottom side to hangers.
The main ceiling profiles need to be inserted into the formed frame, connecting them into a common structure.
The necessary wires must be brought out and the frame sheathed in the same way as was done with the first one.
Finally, the protruding heads of the self-tapping screws are performed, as well as over the rest of the area. To protect the seams from cracks, you can use fiberglass “gossamer”.

Before moving directly to demonstrating winning design solutions, I would like to talk about what they are in principle: photos of plasterboard ceilings do not always provide comprehensive information about what structures were used to create them.

A simple one-level plasterboard covering can look very interesting, especially if you use various decorative elements. Don’t consider it too boring: when executed correctly, this option can be very successful. If you are planning to decorate small room, he is completely irreplaceable.
Universal two-level ceilings- perhaps the most frequently used. They are loved for their versatility. Floating, with slots, the use of various lighting - and now the design is transformed.
Multi-level coatings are used less frequently. This is due to both the price and their demanding nature - they are unlikely to look good in rooms with walls below three meters. And it’s better to take into account the overall dimensions of the room if you don’t want to get an overly massive ceiling.
Shaped elements such as arches or columns are not only beautiful, but also functional. They can delimit space and emphasize some parts of it. True, creating them is quite painstaking work, so you shouldn’t try to do it yourself if you don’t have the appropriate experience.
Combineddesign of ceilings made of plasterboard and stretched fabric is another popular fashion trend. Thanks to the contrast of different textures, such coatings look original. Read more about them here.

As you can see, the number of possible design options for plasterboard ceilings is quite wide - we have listed only the main ones, without touching on the types of lighting and decor. We suggest you figure out how they can look in different styles.

After covering with plasterboard, the fastenings are first puttied. With the help of reinforced mesh, the boundaries of joints on the surface and corners are strengthened and puttied. After the layer of putty has dried, you need to inspect everything to identify pebbles, stripes, bumps or grooves. Apply another layer of putty. One of the last steps is to bring “beauty”.

Plasterboard ceiling in the kitchen

The installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling allows you to apply a variety of design solutions and achieve the necessary interior effects thanks to its features. This gives a lot of advantages when working with plasterboard and often tips the scales in its direction when choosing between plasterboard and suspended ceilings.

Its advantages:

perfect alignment of walls without large-scale construction work;
freedom in self-expression - you can choose absolutely any pattern and shape of the ceiling;
environmental friendliness;
no dirt during installation;
strength and functionality;
versatility;

thanks to this design, you can successfully hide the ventilation, communication and lighting systems;
speed of work - can be completed in one day;
the ability to select lighting zones - you can organize spot lights in the places required for this;
the ability to visually divide a room into different areas;
can visually increase the height of the room;
ease of installation and installation that even a non-professional can handle.

As a rule, double suspended ceiling is used in apartment renovation specifically for zoning premises- this is a very convenient way to thematically separate one part of the room from another, especially if they have different purposes: for example, the dining room is separated from the kitchen area, and the living room is separated from the hallway. Such an unobtrusive division allows you to do without the construction of additional partitions or installation of screens, which means it helps to save and rationally use space.

However, such ceilings also have their significant drawbacks. Regular drywall He is afraid of water, so he does not accept floods from his neighbors above. Repairs will consist of replacing sheets and repainting, or just repainting and new ceiling putty. Moreover, while visually increasing space, it actually takes it away.

There are several ceiling options for the design of living rooms:

Frame. It goes around the perimeter of the room. You can install lighting in it and place spotlights. This leaves a lot of space in the center of the room, so you can add a chandelier that suits the style.
Diagonal. It is a diagonal line running from corner to corner. It can be straight or curved - it's a matter of taste. The base of such a ceiling is flat, the second level protrudes only over part of the room. It divides the room into unequal zones, helps to complement the room and generally looks original.
Zonal. Helps highlight certain area premises, usually quite small. Often used in bedrooms to separate the sleeping area from the working area (if the bedroom is combined with an office).

These are not all existing options. If desired, the design can be complicated by adding more elements to it.

Unusual shapes, patterns and designs are used that help emphasize the individuality of the room and the taste of the owners:

Figured. A structure in an unusual form is attached to the base in the form of a single-level ceiling: it can be a geometric figure, plant element, animalistic motif - at the will of the owner. As a rule, such an element is placed in the center of the room, and in order to further enhance and attract the attention of guests, it is framed with lighting. You can use colored LED lamps.
Abstract. A wide variety of designs are used: from spiral-shaped to completely unprecedented shapes, which can be placed chaotically on the ceiling. The composition is complemented by different lighting methods and colors. This ceiling solution can be considered the most unusual and unique.
Soaring. Plasterboard elements are attached to the base using metal pins and fitting sleeves. So they look as if suspended, suspended in the air. Good light will only emphasize such an attractive effect.

Assembling a plasterboard ceiling with lighting with your own hands seems like an impossible task. If you follow the technology correctly, then the whole process is from preparatory stage and assembling the frame and up to the final finishing work will seem like only a new interesting experience and will not bring any inconvenience or problems.

Installation of plasterboard ceilings requires drawing up a project, which will display all the profiles, their location and fastening. When developing it, it is better to seek help from specialists - they will be able to advise and give valuable advice regarding the entire process of installing ceilings. However, you can tackle the project yourself if you take into account all the advice and approach the issue responsibly.

In addition, based on the completed project, calculations are made on the amount of material used, and it is very undesirable to make mistakes here.

Taking into account all the previous points, we obtain the following sequence of actions in the manufacture of two-level ceilings:

surface preparation;
marking;
installation of the first level frame;
installation of the second level frame;
finishing.

The ceiling area must be thoroughly cleaned and leveled, primed if necessary. A primer is needed to reduce the likelihood of dust getting onto the surface of a plasterboard ceiling from the inside.

You can even clean the ceiling with a vacuum cleaner - this is the most affordable and simple, but at the same time effective way to collect dust particles and dirt so that the material does not become “clogged” with it. This action is especially worth doing for residents of middle floors who have neighbors above.

Universal drying oil can serve as a primer. It must be applied in several layers after the leveling plaster has hardened, otherwise the primer will be absorbed into the fresh composition and the desired result will not be achieved.

Before you start building the frame, you need to make a diagram of it. In order to obtain all the data necessary for marking, you need to perform the following steps:

measure the height of the room at the corners;
find the “lowest” corner (with the smallest height).

It is this angle that will become the starting point for marking, because this is the only way the entire structure will turn out horizontally level.

The next step is to apply markings. It is necessary to mark a straight line on the walls for the profiles according to the drawings. We place points on the ceiling so that the suspension comes out even. You shouldn’t make a lot of extra lines and dots on the walls and ceiling - it will be confusing. It is very convenient to use a laser level.

It is important that:

the perimeter was accurately related to the horizon;
the lines on which the guides will “lie” were correct;
the location of the suspension mounts was noted;
the proportions were correctly and accurately transferred to the walls and ceiling.

However, it also happens that not only the angles in the room are different, but also the length of the walls and sides of the ceiling. Then main task becomes horizontal equalization. After this, you need to leave a clear pattern on the ceiling and align the rest of the structure along the edge. This will help visually smooth out the curvature of the sides and give the ceiling the desired look.

The next stage is to attach the guide profile to the walls of the room in accordance with the markings. The fastening must go strictly along the line, otherwise the ceiling and the entire structure will be crooked.

Holes for fastening are drilled with self-tapping screws, the length of which must be sufficient to support the weight of the entire profile. The hangers are also fastened with self-tapping screws, although this is not necessary: depending on the type of hangers, the fasteners themselves change.

The next step is to assemble the frame. The transverse strips are attached to the longitudinal strips, fastened with “crabs”, i.e., clamps - they ensure an even perpendicular arrangement of the profiles in relation to each other. After installation is completed, the structure should be checked for stability, reliability and rigidity.

If required, gypsum board can be cut with a hacksaw to required sizes, and then attach it to the profile.

In order to give the desired pieces the desired shape, the material must be moistened with water. Then the sheets become soft, pliable and can easily change their shape. To simplify the work, it is better to treat the surface with a metal needle roller - this way the material will be saturated faster and it will be easier to bend it into the desired shape.

With the installation of the second-level frame, minor difficulties begin. More care and caution is required to avoid damaging the top level and carefully make the second one.

First of all, on the already finished and sheathed surface of the first level and marks are left on the walls for the construction of the second level. Marks are left only where the second level will directly pass - if it is located along the entire perimeter of the room, then marks are made on all sides.

The guide profile for the second level is attached along the line on the walls and along the border of the lower level, from the inside. Pieces of the main profile are cut into lengths slightly shorter than the height from the profile to the mark located on the wall. On the profile pieces, space is left for attaching the profile.

The guide pieces are attached to the guide profile. A guide profile is placed at a pre-designated mounting location. Its sharp edge should point towards the wall.

In order to insert and secure the main profile into the guide elements, it is cut into pieces of suitable length. If the length of the pieces is more than half a meter, additional fastening in the form of hangers is required.

After this, sheets of plasterboard are fixed to the supporting profile of the frame. You need to start fastening from the corner, and the sheets should not be joined together. You can't do this without self-tapping screws and a screwdriver. Since the weight of one sheet of drywall is about 20-30 kg, it is worth thinking in advance about an assistant and a stable and strong stepladder.

The second level of the ceiling is sheathed similarly to the first. The seams are sealed last, and after that you can begin finishing the ceiling.

However Before completing the work, holes are cut in the drywall and cables and wires for communications are routed(communication lines, speakers, if their presence is provided for in the drawing and plan), a lighting system is installed. All wires must be corrugated– for protection against cuts during broaching and for fire safety purposes. It is better not to attach to frame profiles power cables- better on the ceiling. It will be very difficult to do this later.

First of all, you need to get rid of the joints. They need to be sealed with putty or a special mesh and leveledso that they are not visible, otherwise they will spoil the overall appearance, standing out under the paint. After all the joints have been removed, the surface is treated with sandpaper, which makes the transition boundaries invisible. Then another final layer of putty is applied, diluted with water. It’s good to carry out this procedure paint roller- this way the layer will be more even.

After the putty has dried, the surface is treated with a primer and covered with ceiling paint or other finishing materials. However, if the choice fell on paint, then you will have to putty the entire surface so that unsightly stains are not visible. Also When finishing a two-tier ceiling, it is worth remembering about corner and flat tapes to strengthen the seams. They are covered with a special perforated tape.

You can leave the ceiling simply white, diversifying it with one light and LED lamps, or you can go further and pay attention to non-standard and unique color solutions:

If you make the ceiling to match the walls or one or two shades lighter, then visually the room will become more spacious and bright.
The dark two-level design slightly “steals” the height of the room, but at the same time evens out its proportions. A good option for high ceilings with curved walls.
If part of the plasterboard structure is finished with gloss, it will create the effect of additional light and visually expand the room and add air to the interior.
If the windows do not face the sunny side and the lack of light is a significant problem, you should pay attention to decorating the ceiling with bright, warm, summer colors. Peach, soft pink, orange and yellow shades will play the role of artificial sun and the room will always be cozy.
In rooms with windows facing south, cool shades will look great. A good option for lovers of blue, gray and greenish shades in the interior.

More and more people have recently chosen plasterboard ceiling options and there are many explanations for this. There are many advantages to this design:

environmental friendliness and safety of the material;
no synthetic or other odor;

surface leveling;
ease of processing with improvised tools (knife);
ease of installation;
high heat and sound insulation characteristics;
fire resistance;
variety of designs;
possibility of installing lamps;
a harmonious combination of practicality, beauty and functionality.

This is the ceiling:

hides flaws;
masks communications;
not afraid of mechanical influences;
non-toxic when heated.

Ceiling lighting in the bedroom

This design hides all the “waviness”, which is very difficult to level without plasterboard.
Before you start installation of a metal frame on the ceiling, there is no need to perfectly level the base.
Many wires and ventilation are hidden.
With the help LED strip on the ceiling, the suspended plasterboard structure looks rich and unusual.
At self-installation appears significant savings money (the price of the craftsmen’s work is 350 rubles per square meter), and pride in the “beauty” made with one’s own hands.

Abundance light colors, environmental friendliness and simplicity are the main idea of Scandinavian interior design - it is not surprising that this style has many fans.

Despite the fact that natural materials are predominantly used for it, the one- and two-level plasterboard ceilings in the following photos clearly demonstrate that there are exceptions to any rule.

The unusual design of the ceiling, imitating a canopy with its lower level, fits well with the concept Scandinavian style. Choose white color and clear, straight lines. However, before installation, we strongly advise you to make sure that the height of the walls allows such solutions: they conceal at least 30 centimeters.

For the kitchen, you can give preference to a single-level covering: it looks laconic, while emphasizing the elegance of the furniture and adding space to the room. Such techniques are typical for Scandinavia, so do not abandon them in favor of more complex options.

A volumetric ceiling with plasterboard beams painted to resemble wood is another win-win method that will suit almost any room. The main thing is not to make them too massive - remember that the interior should give a light and airy impression.

Installation of ceiling lighting around the perimeter with step-by-step photos

Popular types of lighting for gypsum board ceilings:

ordinary incandescent lamps;
duralight;
neon lighting;
LED backlight;
classic chandelier;
fluorescent lighting.

For installation spotlight Markings are made and then holes are cut. The advantages of this type of lighting include original design and ease of installation without additional involvement of specialists. Disadvantages: the need to redo the wiring, not very intense light, but at the same time quite high energy costs.

Advantages of the chandelier: simple and quick installation process without reworking the wiring. Designers usually choose this lighting option for interior design in a classic or baroque style. At the same time, if you use energy-saving lamps, your electricity bills will not be so ruinous.

open: implies that the lamps are mounted in the ceiling, for which special holes are created. It is also possible to carry out a simple suspension of lamps to the structure. It is important to remember that the weight of lamps for any type of plasterboard structures should not exceed 10 kg;
closed: with hidden lighting, the lamps are placed in special niches hidden between the ceiling levels. With this lighting option, the light does not fall into the room itself, but onto the ceiling, after which it is reflected from it and as a result, an amazing atmosphere of coziness and comfort is created.

Closed backlight

The following can be used as lighting for plasterboard ceilings:

LED backlight;
lamps;
chandeliers;
neon lighting;
duralight.

Duralight

LEDs

They are mounted before the sheathing in a niche made for them. There are certain rules:

Before gluing the LED, it is checked for functionality.
To cut the tape, you need to find the places marked for this.
A soldering iron is used to connect the strip pieces.
The LED assembly includes a block. The first end of the block is connected to the main wiring, the second - to the tape.
Red wire " ". Maintain polarity.
LEDs cannot be glued to metal.

Optical fiber

This is the order:

There is a wide variety of lighting fixtures on sale designed for drywall: rotating, surface-mounted, recessed, which in themselves can become an interior decoration. LED strips with different color spectrum will make two-level plasterboard ceilings the most unusual and at the same time help to visually differentiate the stages of structures.

Near the window there is space left for a cornice, the width of the box is 60 cm, it is lowered by 12 cm relative to the main ceiling, the height of the side is about 5 cm, the protruding part is 6 cm, roundings are made in the corners.

The first method was chosen - a step under lighting without support. Since the backlight is planned from a regular LED strip, it bearing capacity more than enough.

First make markings on the ceiling. All given dimensions are set aside and lines are drawn using a paint cord. Please note that the line on the ceiling is laid at a distance of 54 cm, and not 60 cm, as in the first diagram. It is obtained taking into account the fact that the step is moved forward by 6 cm.

When drawing curves, their center is made not in the place where the profile is attached, but taking into account the protruding step: this way the element turns out to be more expressive.

The profile guides (CD or PNP as marked) are attached along the marked lines. They attached it to dowels at 50 cm intervals. They drilled straight through the metal. Having installed the plug, we tightened the dowel-nail.

Where it is necessary to form a rounding, the walls (sidewalls) of the profile are cut, the back remains intact. After this, the profile can be laid out in a circle.

From the front side, we attach a strip of plasterboard 12 cm wide to the guide profile on the ceiling. This will be the back side of our box. We fasten it around the entire perimeter with self-tapping screws at a distance of about 10 cm.

On the back side of the installed side we attach vertical posts from the CD (ceiling) profile. Their length is small - 9.8 cm (12 cm height of the box, minus 1 cm for installing profiles, and another minus 1.2 cm for the thickness of the gypsum board screwed from below).

In each segment the lower part is trimmed. The side walls are removed so that another guide profile can be screwed on. As a result, its bottom shelf should be flush with the profile screwed to the wall. Installation step vertical racks- about 40-50 cm.

We screw short vertical pieces around the perimeter

Next step: screw on the PNP profile that goes along the bottom of the boot. It is also installed on self-tapping screws in increments of 10-12 cm.

They connect two guide profiles: the one that is screwed to the wall, and the one that is attached to the main side. They are made from a supporting profile in increments of 40-50 cm.

Let's start creating the curves. To make the strip bend along the required path, we take a strip of drywall about 15 cm wide. We cut it in 5 cm increments and break the plaster. The result was pieces of plaster that were held on cardboard.

Now we attach such pieces to the profile. For each fragment - one self-tapping screw, approximately in the middle of the width, so that it does not burst.

Using a laser level, we transfer the height markings to the inside. If you don't have a laser level, use a water level and draw a line with a pencil.

Then we take a piece of the supporting profile 9.8 cm long, just cut it both at the top and bottom. Approximately in the middle of the arc, we place one edge behind the profile and fasten it with a self-tapping screw.

Then we take a piece of profile cut into fragments (as we did when forming a circle on the ceiling) and fasten it along the mark.

Finished rounding “from the inside”

Now the excess pieces of gypsum board can be removed. They are cut level with the bottom edge of the profile, carefully cutting the paper and breaking off small fragments.

The next step in making a backlit plasterboard ceiling is putty. The ceiling and main side are plastered. This is the most convenient moment for this. Later, the bottom hem and the protruding cornice will interfere.

The most convenient way is to cut out a square, then trim it on one side. First we screw it in straight lines. Then, gradually, in an arc, drawing the required edge shape.

First you can draw, then bite off small pieces along this line. Smooth out any uneven surfaces with a wallpaper knife.

No news: to make curves, we cut the sides, bend them to the required diameter and install them in place, fixing them with self-tapping screws.

If you are planning to use LED lighting for a plasterboard ceiling, now is the time to attach the tape. Then it will be very uncomfortable. It is glued in the right place, if necessary, installing some kind of inclined plane.

Next, a strip of plasterboard 5 cm wide is attached to the profile. One of the features is that it is fastened in the middle, and not at the top and bottom: the height is too small. The bends are also done in a familiar way. We cut a strip every 4-5 cm, break the plaster and fasten it.

In this option, to facilitate the work and give the ceiling a finished look, fillets (ceiling plinth) are glued to the side. Similar ones are glued at the junction of the box and the wall.

Now all that remains is to putty everything and achieve a smooth surface. Almost everything. The plasterboard ceiling with lighting is ready, all that remains is to install the lighting itself. And it can be different.

Country interior

Some people consider country, otherwise known as rustic, to be rustic. We are ready to confidently tell you that this is not true at all!

Such plasterboard ceilings, as in the following photo, in a country-style bedroom can be considered classic. Light plasterboard emphasizes the relief of dark wooden beams.

Please note: The designer chose a chandelier with thin twisted structures. She looks great in such a rough frame.

Simple plasterboard ceilings in country style are well suited for small rooms, for example, living rooms up to 20 sq. m. If they seem boring to you, add a couple decorative elements- but no more, so as not to visually overload the room!

The two-level design is easy to successfully beat. It will not distract attention from the main interior, but, on the contrary, will emphasize it. Take a lamp as decoration unusual shape. True, glass pendants and an abundance of metal parts will have to be abandoned - nevertheless, they are not entirely appropriate in country style.

In an ethnic interior

Recently, various folk motifs are gaining more and more popularity. Indian, African, Asian... This could not but be reflected in the design of the ceilings.

The painting technique allows you to give the plasterboard canvas almost any look. Notice how stylish oriental patterns look on the flat surface of the corridor ceiling. The versatility of this method is that you can easily choose the scale that suits the dimensions of your room.

Combining plasterboard with stained glass is another interesting way to decorate the ceiling. Apply animalistic patterns to the glass or its imitation or paint it to your liking. However, it is necessary to take into account that to construct such a beautiful plasterboard ceiling with stained glass windows, as in this photo, you will need a fairly spacious room with ceilings of at least three meters.

A two-level canvas with hidden lighting and an outer edge decorated in African style is an interesting solution that will fit well in any room - from an office to a bedroom.

A fresco imitating Arabic painting is an excellent decoration for small spaces. For example, to the kitchen. This insert is easily installed in a plasterboard ceiling and looks great.

Pay attention to the edging: the figured relief emphasizes the smoothness of the fresco and contrasts favorably with it.

Calculations and drawing of a multi-level ceiling structure

After choosing a product based on designer photos, you can begin drawings and diagrams. Drawing with dimensions and names of elements for installing a two-level plasterboard ceiling When drawing up a drawing, the dimensions of the room are taken into account. If the room is small, then there is no need to make piled-up curved figures on the ceiling.

Sometimes the drawing does not fit, some individual details are drawn on another paper with detailed dimensions (for example, curved shapes). All fastening points and wiring must be marked on the drawing.

Leveling the ceiling horizontally using drywall is not a difficult task. It’s another matter to build the subsequent levels correctly and correctly arrange the lamps. In this case, lighting is a key element of the entire suspended structure, so it would be best if you have both a drawing and a lighting diagram on hand.

Thanks to the drawing, you get a complete picture of how the zoning of the internal space will be carried out using the suspension system. On the sketch you can always pre-calculate how much the ceiling will be lowered, and where in the room steps or ledges should be made. In addition, a preliminary calculation will allow you to save money when purchasing consumables and components. Profile trims and excess drywall may no longer be useful, so it is better to rely on the exact number of parts and material in your work.

The drawing should indicate the optimal height of all vertical elements of the suspended structure. It corresponds to the width of the guides and longitudinal profiles - 50-60mm. The maximum height of a multi-level ceiling can reach 20cm, no more. The proposed drawing shows approximate dimensions for a two-level plasterboard ceiling of medium complexity.

When drawing up a drawing, all reference points should be taken from the corner of the room where the base ceiling surface is lowest. In the drawing, this place is marked in a different color, then the calculations are based on this height value.

When creating a drawing, we can conclude that building a suspended ceiling in two or three levels is not so difficult. The only condition is that all the work will take more time.

High-tech interior

ABOUT modern design You don’t have to say much about the high-tech style—almost everyone knows it. Abundance of light and space, laconic lines, metal decor... All this looks very interesting. Of course, plasterboard boards, which can easily take any shape, easily fit into this concept.

Look at this photo of a backlit plasterboard ceiling. Thanks to the complex two-level design, the room, oddly enough, looks more spacious. True, we do not recommend using this method for a small bedroom - it is better to choose another option.

The unusual arrangement of LED strips in a high-tech interior can be not only a source of light, but also an additional decoration. Experiment with making a plan for their placement.

An interesting technique: Place an insert made of mirror tension fabric on the plasterboard. This is quite in the spirit of the chosen style. The metallic shine and non-standard shape of the inserts descending onto the wall will be complemented by a modern chandelier with drop-shaped shades.

Want something unique? Consider a complex multi-level plasterboard ceiling, as in the photo below - a great option for decorating a large kitchen.

Columns, floating plasterboard ceilings and multi-colored LED strips create a futuristic effect. Experiment with the shape: it is not necessary to place all the elements symmetrically. In this case, some negligence is quite permissible and will add charm to your interior. But don’t overdo it - we don’t recommend sticking a dozen blocks at random.

By the way, who said that you need to limit yourself exclusively to white? A pink plasterboard ceiling is an excellent solution for a small living room. Tiny spotlights placed in the shape of curls will decorate a smooth canvas. Yes, and they look very original.

A carved figured insert, as in the photo below, is a hit of 2017. Choose a form that suits your liking and don’t hold back your imagination. Such option will do even for a children's room - kids will appreciate the silhouettes of funny animals or cosmic bodies.

Don't forget about the hidden LED lighting - it will add volume to the structure.

Preparation

Installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling is carried out in stages, and construction work must be carried out correctly, in compliance with all installation technologies. In order for the structure to reliably serve for many years, the surface is prepared before attaching it, after which the frame can only be assembled.

The next stage of preparation will be the selection of a frame design, according to which it will be possible to subsequently assemble the structure.

As a rule, it is used to make a frame step by step instructions, according to which the suspension system is assembled in two ways:

First of all, the first level system is installed, then the second tier is attached.
The second level is prepared, it is fixed on special hangers, after which the first tier is mounted.

Each of the above assembly technologies is good in its own way, but if you do the installation work yourself, then its choice will depend on the skills of the novice master, as well as on the size and shape of the room. For example, for small rooms it is not recommended to use a complex ceiling system, since due to the double structure the height of the room will be “cut off” and it will look bulky. As for rectangular rooms, when choosing the placement of levels, you need to pay attention to the fact that the second tier should be smaller than the first.

Externally, loft-style design may seem rough: deliberate simplicity of decoration, predominance of metal, concrete and brick...

However, with the right approach, it will become very elegant and attractive. Drywall fits well into such an interior. Let's look at the photo beautiful ceilings from plasterboard in loft style.

Do you prefer rooms? unusual looking? Consider a ceiling with 3D printed lettering. Even the highest quality photo printing will not provide such an impressive effect.

This monocolor solution is a good choice for small spaces. The abundance of light colors will make it much more spacious.

The right shade of paint can look quite interesting on drywall. Don't try to achieve a perfectly even finish. Stains, unevenness and roughness will add texture to such a ceiling.

At first glance, it will seem that the ceiling is made of concrete - but this would not be very convenient. Even in a private house, the plasterboard ceilings used in this photo are much more functional - they will hide pipes and wiring.

Please note: Usually when finishing They try to achieve maximum evenness and disguise the joints. In the loft style it is not at all necessary to do this - on the contrary, emphasize them to give the design authenticity.

The “Loft” interior for the kitchen is used quite often: simplicity of forms and minimum quantity decorative elements guarantee convenience and look very beautiful.

You can try to highlight these qualities with the help of a single-level plasterboard ceiling - a universal option that will suit both large and small kitchens.

If you are afraid that the result will be too faceless, try playing with the lighting - the placement of spotlights, an unusual chandelier, interesting decoration around the perimeter. There are many solutions to help decorate a room.

Proper marking on surfaces

After completing the preparation, the next step is to transfer the drawing to the base. The straight lines that are drawn along the walls for the guides must be clearly even. A level is used for this. You can use a stretched thread. They will be even and not deviate from the intended points in different angles. After determining the center (this cannot be determined by the chandelier, it does not hang in the center), you can proceed to the curved elements.

These can be ovals, circles, semicircles, waves and chaotic wavy shapes. It is better to draw such figures with a homemade compass. Wiring definition. You need to put dots or crosses where the diode will be fixed. Also use points to determine the location of hangers and fasteners. When applying points, it is necessary to maintain the exact distance at which the repetition occurs (for example, every 30 cm).

Art Deco interior

In contrast to the loft, we present to your attention examples of rooms in the art deco format. Delicate tones, curly elements, antique stylization... Agree, it sounds very interesting.

Can you hardly imagine how modern drywall will fit into this picture? Look further!

Of course, simple single-level ceilings are unlikely to be appropriate. But a complex multi-level design with lighting is what you need!

Better avoid standard white. But you shouldn’t get carried away with too bright shades. Delicate creamy pastel colors, elegant brown... They will complement the interior, while fully complying with the art deco concept.

It is not necessary to use plasterboard for the entire floor: a glossy tension fabric in a plasterboard box looks amazing. This design is well suited for rooms of any size - from large to small.

For added elegance, choose a sleek pendant chandelier with delicate decorative pendants.

Stucco on the ceiling is a technique that may be too pretentious in another style. However, it is almost ideal for art deco.

A complex shaped plasterboard ceiling with stucco elements will decorate spacious rooms with high walls. Make sure the quality of the sculpting - if it is rough, the effect will be ruined.

Material and tool

To install a two-level ceiling, you need to prepare all the necessary materials and tools. Their choice must be approached with all responsibility, because the quality of the final result, and therefore the durability and reliability of the ceiling, depends on the quality of the materials.

First you need to familiarize yourself with the design of the coating. It includes:

metal profile (UD guide and CD ceiling);
fastening elements (self-tapping screws, self-tapping screws);
“crabs” – connectors;
straight or springy suspensions;
metal dowel wedges;
soundproofing materials (if such a goal is set);
self-tapping screws;
finishing materials: primer, putty, etc.;

Also, when choosing materials, it is worth considering that for rooms with for various purposes you need drywall with different properties. So, simple construction plasterboard is suitable for arranging rooms, hallways or kitchens, and moisture-resistant ones for bathrooms.

When purchasing frames, you should be especially vigilant when assessing products for defects, kinks and bends.

For self-conducting installation work You need to have the following tools:

square or crossbar;
roulette;
pencil;
construction knife;
screwdriver;
perforator;
building level;

spatulas, brushes and other equipment for painting and finishing work;
plumb line;
metal scissors;
ladder;
gloves and goggles for protection.

All drywall tools should be in one place. Tool kit: Scheme for marking and fastening profiles to the ceiling

You will need a meter or tape measure, as well as a pencil.
Must be long building level.
You will need a hammer drill.
Screwdriver set. Both flat and figured screwdrivers of different lengths.
Construction knife with a set of blades. A stationery one might work, but it's not as reliable.
Scissors for cutting metal.
Planer for drywall needed for sanding the edges of the sheet.
The angle will be needed to mount parts at a 90 degree angle.
Thread for precision.
Crowns for making holes for lighting fixtures.
Set of spatulas.
Rollers.

Required materials:

In a vintage interior

Not so long ago, vintage design was considered not very universal: a living room, a bedroom, perhaps an office... However, recent fashion trends refute this stereotype.

How do you like a bathroom decorated in this style? A multi-level plasterboard ceiling with hidden lighting and decorative inserts, oddly enough, does not seem out of place. On the contrary, it emphasizes the interior, which is consistent in the same spirit.

Curly plasterboard ceilings are almost a vintage classic. The main thing is to choose a beautiful and elegant pattern and take care of even installation. You don’t want the whole impression of an expensive repair to be spoiled by crooked joints?

A simple canvas can look absolutely luxurious if you complement it with an unusual antique chandelier and stylish skirting boards. Try to show attention to detail, otherwise the slightest carelessness in finishing will completely change the perception of the room and deprive it of harmony.

In the interior “Modern”

Smooth lines, a combination of natural materials with modern ones and a minimum of conventions. Perhaps this is how this not entirely standard design should be characterized.

Despite some trends, it cannot be said that there are strict rules that must be followed when renovating.

The suspended plasterboard ceiling shown in this photo of an Art Nouveau living room demonstrates this perfectly. Classic wood tones of furniture are unusually combined with iron lamps and LED lighting. Agree, this design cannot be called standard - but this is precisely its charm.

Wave-shaped plasterboard ceilings are used quite often in modernity - their texture fully complies with the basic principle of smooth lines. Try installing a complex multi-level structure by placing an illuminated fabric insert in its center. Elegant and beautiful.

You will get an original coating if you place figured plasterboard elements, for example, rings, on a single-level simple canvas. This solution looks very interesting and fresh. A good choice for a living room or children's room. In the second case, make the volumetric part of the ceiling colored - this will make the result much brighter.

Installation of the second level frame

In first-level production there are methods by which the sheathing is installed. The first option is simpler - transverse:

Fastening the NP to the wall according to the intended markings. Fasteners are installed every 50 cm.
Suspensions are attached along the marked crosses. The distance between them is 50 cm.
The PP is attached to them with small self-tapping screws. The ceiling profile is connected to a guide on the wall.
To make the surface even, a nylon thread is stretched, and sagging PPs are adjusted with hangers. Their ends are bent and the PP is tightened.
The thread should be stretched along the NP on the wall. If the ends of the hangers peek out, they need to be bent in different directions.

After the first tier is created, the laying of wires begins. They must be placed in corrugation for insulation. The wires should not come into contact with metal to avoid short circuits and fire. At each point of the proposed electrical appliance, the wire is set at 15 cm. The wiring is brought out to the switch point at one end, and to the electrical box at the other end.

The cellular frame is a kind of mesh, which is installed as follows:

Cells are formed in this way. If the PP sags, it is tightened with hangers. The jumpers are made of PP using the cutting method. One jumper is 60 cm. The crabs are attached to the remaining parts with small self-tapping screws. In some cases, before attaching the profiles, a sealant is glued to the “back”.

If the base is completely covered, points and dimensions from the drawing are applied to the plane. There may also be wiring elements here. The second tier is installed according to the principle of the first. The main thing is to maintain accuracy and step by step. An example of a mounted frame of the second level When creating curved forms, do not forget about the niche for lighting. To do this, the parts of the metal product are placed 10 cm outside the metal structure.

In a classic interior

Classic never goes out of style. In addition, such finishing is successfully used in any room - from the bedroom to the corridor. Therefore, its popularity, in addition to elegance, is explained by its versatility. Let's see examples?

A simple white plasterboard ceiling is transformed by adding multi-level edging around the perimeter. It seems very elegant, suitable for rooms of any size.

The main thing to consider is that if the height of the walls is less than three meters, then you will have to abandon too sharp transitions - they will seem too massive.

The plasterboard ceiling in the next photo is an excellent solution for a spacious living room or hall. Pay attention to the curly elements. Creating such a design will require a lot of time and money, but the result is definitely worth it.

This design is a good choice for combined rooms: a hall with a dining room, a kitchen-studio, a bedroom with an office... A mirrored complex ceiling will enhance the impression. You can complement it with an elegant pendant chandelier. Thanks to the simple texture of the material, there is no need to limit yourself in decor: crystal pendants and interesting shapes are more appropriate than ever in this case.

Luxurious multi-tiered ceilings with stucco molding on plasterboard (example in the photo below) also cannot be considered an easy-to-install and operate coating. They require compliance with the appropriate interior: it is unlikely that such a decorated canvas will be successfully combined with floral wallpaper.

By the way: the harmony of decorating a room is perhaps the basic rule that should be followed impeccably. The rest are more of a advisory nature and in particular cases it is even worth violating them. However, here the slightest mistake can be critical and simply kill the entire interior.

A beautiful solution for a bedroom is a multi-tiered plasterboard ceiling with smooth color transitions. Choose a soft gradient or, as here, use the classic combination of beige and white. As a lighting source, give preference to a chandelier or complement it spotlights, if the room is large enough.

A plasterboard ceiling, consisting of two levels and lighting, is considered a complex structure, therefore, in order to install it correctly, you must first draw up sketches of the future composition, then assemble the system. Despite the fact that the installation process may seem difficult, it is quite possible to cope with it yourself.

For novice craftsmen, when installing two-tier ceilings, it is recommended to use the following useful tips:

The second level of the suspension system plays a decorative role, so its design must be approached responsibly by choosing unusual ideas. The technology for installing the structure will depend on the shape and size of the second tier, since often the figures can have a cutout or go down to the first level.
Installation should begin by measuring the perimeter of the ceiling and determining the height for each tier. To ensure that the calculations are performed correctly, you should use a laser or hydraulic level. For each level of the system, a mark is placed, after which a tapping cord is attached, and a working plane is formed.
The drawing of the future ceiling is drawn directly on the floor slabs to fix the evenness of the lines, and UD profiles are attached to the surface.
To give the structure volume, you need to make guides from CD profiles. At the same time, when working with profiles, it is necessary to leave a small margin of length.

The profiles are fixed with special metal screws. If necessary, they can be bent in any direction of the structure. In the case when the profile is placed opposite the ceiling, its direction is aligned as follows: cuts are made to the base every 5-10 cm, after which the segment is directed in the desired direction.
Cutouts in a plasterboard ceiling must be made from rigid profiles that can withstand the load. They are attached to the ceiling using U-shaped brackets.
All load-bearing profiles, unlike conventional wall structures, are mounted at intervals of 40 cm. To increase their strength, you can take steps of 30 cm. Such reinsurance will increase the strength characteristics of the frame and protect the structure from possible cracking under the influence of the weight of the second tier.

Unlike walls, the load-bearing ceiling profiles are fixed directly to the ceiling itself, so the fastenings are subject to enormous load. To make the system durable, you should additionally attach metal brackets to the profiles, maintaining a distance of at least 60 cm.
It is advisable to combine the process of making a frame and covering it with sheets of plasterboard. Therefore, it is best to sheathe the second tier first, and only then start finishing the first main one. This way the work can be done faster and more conveniently.
The most difficult thing in designing a two-level ceiling may seem to be bending the plasterboard sheets. To do this, they are traditionally soaked, after which they are leveled with a special roller, but all this can be done in a different way. If you need to create shapes with a small radius, then drywall will bend well even when dry. In order not to break it, it is necessary to make even cuts along the parallel, observing a step of 5 cm. The resulting workpiece will easily bend and be puttied.

In order for the original ceiling to complement the interior of the room, you should worry about its lighting. For two-level systems, LED strips are considered the ideal lighting option. They are best mounted along the perimeter of the lower tier, which forms a small niche. The result is a stunning light effect. In this case, the lower level should protrude beyond the perimeter of the frame by 50 or 70 mm. The edges of the drywall sheets are aligned along all boundaries, then guide profiles are placed and the LED strip is mounted.
The design of a two-tier ceiling must be selected strictly in accordance with the design style of the room. It should be harmoniously combined with wall decoration and flooring. Depending on the functional purpose of the room, you can install structures that visually divide the space into separate zones.

For beginners, to simplify the installation task, it is better to draw all the lines of the drawing. It will be easier to work with them, because you can do without a drawing on paper and not be distracted by it every five minutes of the process.

Before starting calculations, it is worth giving it “for verification” finished project to a professional. He will help you make the necessary changes or suggest the best solution.

It is better to stop using incandescent lamps– they can char the materials. In return It is worth using halogen lamps.

When painting, it is better to apply the first layer in one direction, and the second - perpendicular to the first. Paint applied in this way leaves no streaks and lays down in a dense, high-quality layer.

The jumpers must be strictly at the same level; to check this, you should measure their level with a tool. Be sure to use a level when installing the structure. It will help avoid the occurrence of dangerous defects. If slight bending of the plasterboard sheet is expected, then this can be easily done without additional machinations. However, if the curvature is significant, it is better to prepare for this process in advance and learn the subtleties and details.

A two-tier plasterboard ceiling helps solve a lot of aesthetic and design problems, correct the shortcomings of the room, such as the curvature of the walls or ceiling, and makes it possible to evenly distribute lighting throughout the room, making it high quality and harmless to the eyes.

Complex options

Classic option.

Figured.

With LEDs.

For geometry lovers.

Two-level ceiling with an abstract “curl”.

Unusual lines.

Example of zoning.

For information on a two-level plasterboard ceiling with hidden lighting, see the following video.

A two-level plasterboard ceiling is considered an ideal addition to the interior of any room. Such hanging systems look beautiful in kitchens, but since this type of room is often exposed to moisture and high temperatures, for decoration you need to choose the right material with special protection.

A warm color palette is well suited for the kitchen, so it is best to design two-tier compositions from several shades of the color scheme. Separate inserts of different textures and colors will also look unusual in designs. A classic option for a kitchen would be a snow-white ceiling with bright lighting, while lovers of modernism can choose models that combine not only plasterboard, but also colored canvas displays that will harmoniously complement the beauty of the flooring and furniture.

In addition, for the kitchen you can choose plasterboard systems assembled not only from rectangular tiers, but also decorated with interesting shapes, lines and patterns. It could be geometric shapes, abstraction or waves. To emphasize the beauty of a complex structure, lighting sources need to be installed not only around the perimeter of the lower tier, but also placed in decorative details.

The living room plays a special role in every home. Since not only the whole family gathers in it, but also guests meet, its design must be special. Will help you achieve a stunning effect in the living room interior bunk ceiling. It will make the room luxurious and stylish, and unusual combinations of colors and shapes will give the surface a chic look.

The color of the hanging composition must be chosen in accordance with the harmony of shades. Therefore, the tone of the background of the room is determined, and after that paint is added to the interior. Such ceilings can be decorated not only geometric shapes, but also Chinese symbols or unusual patterns. It all depends on the design style and personal preferences of the home owners.

The bedroom belongs to the rest and sleep area, so installing two-level ceilings in this room requires a special approach. Great solution for it there will be a suspended structure of two tiers, where plasterboard parts will be made in light colors, and decorative canvases made of dark shades. Lighting for such a composition can be done either from spotlights or the system can be supplemented with small chandeliers, which will help create an atmosphere of harmony and romance in the room. A complex structure in white, the upper tier of which is located above the bed, looks interesting in the bedroom.

Despite the fact that the bathroom is subject to high humidity, it is still possible to install complex ceilings consisting of two levels and lighting. To do this, you need to choose drywall designed for wet rooms. It is advisable to use in the design of such ceilings light shades that would go well with the wall decoration. For the bathroom it is not necessary to make complex compositions; you can get by with the second tier, laying it out in a figured form.

To learn how to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling with lighting, see the following video.

Single-level ceilings with built-in spotlights are an ideal option for any room size.

Designers usually choose the option of placing a chandelier on a plasterboard ceiling to decorate an interior in a classic or baroque style.

For installation of a single-level plasterboard ceiling, see the following video.

Rarely, but still, other, more complex designs of plasterboard ceilings are used. Usually complex designs imply similar multi-level ceilings designs. But including complex and unique elements, such as patterns and various shapes. There are quite a lot of options for implementing complex plasterboard structures, but it is not possible to list them all, because as many designers as there are so many variations and solutions. But in order to make it clear what we’re talking about, let’s consider several types of complex plasterboard structures:

figured - it is based on a central second or third level in the form of an intricate figure: a flower, a circle, a polygon, a star, which are emphasized by lighting;
abstractions - this type of ceiling can have any shape. Often a design in the form of an abstraction is a beautiful, intricate design. The second level made of a spiral and bright white LED backlight looks very impressive. But you can use other types of abstractions, even a construction of different figures, as in the photo;
patterned - a plasterboard structure has a fine-mesh pattern over the entire surface area. Such structures are very complex to implement, so they are usually installed by very wealthy segments of the population;
“floating” illuminated ceilings have an unusual fastening system. Thanks to it, various geometric shapes are perfectly used in ceiling design and create the impression of a “floating” ceiling.

floating ceiling