Insulation of the bathhouse ceiling is an integral rule for arranging a comfortable steam room. Old folk methods that provide an optimal microclimate in a room with a high temperature regime have still not lost their relevance.
Along with them, new materials and technologies demonstrate excellent insulation performance. To conduct it correctly insulation work with your own hands, you need to consider all the available options and choose the most suitable one for yourself.
Popular methods of insulation
Based on the experience of professionals, mineral wool, clay, expanded clay and earth can be distinguished from all materials. A bathhouse, steam room and washing room can be insulated in several ways and various materials suitable for such a procedure can be used in the work.
Traditional methods are known for their inexpensive components, environmental friendliness and fire safety, but their implementation will require more time and effort. Modern methods, on the contrary, are simpler in terms of installation, but the materials will entail certain costs.
What should not be used?
If you decide to opt for modern materials, it is worth remembering that foam plastic should never be used in such work. This affordable and popular thermal insulation, when heated, emits chemicals that poison the indoor air, and where it touches hot pipe and may completely melt.
Multilayer construction
Properly executed insulation technology consists of several layers and is a so-called insulation pie, where the materials are arranged in the following order:
- waterproofing (membrane film);
- basalt insulation;
- protective foil.
The thickness of the thermal insulation layer averages from 20 centimeters and depends on the type of roof (presence of an attic), the functional purpose of the room and the climate in the region in which the building is erected.
As a rule, in a steam room these parameters are increased and two layers of membrane film are laid in front of the insulation sheets, which will increase the concentration of steam inside the bath.
Mineral wool
Insulating a bathhouse ceiling with mineral wool is equally suitable for rooms with and without an attic. The main thing is to provide the ceiling with floor beams on which the insulation cake will be fixed.
This method is quite simple to implement and will not entail large financial costs. Before thermal insulation is installed, all wooden elements are processed antiseptics. Further, all work consists of stages.
Installation of vapor barrier
Vapor barrier material is divided into several types: regular foil, aluminum foil and membrane film. For a bath room, insulation with aluminum coating or foil insulation is best suited. Along with protection from moisture, it provides heat reflection into the steam room, which allows you to save on heating by two or three times.
Vapor barrier film sheets are overlapped onto a wooden beam using a construction stapler. Using foil tape, carefully glue all joints. This is the most effective method properly and efficiently provide the bathhouse with thermal insulation.
Installation of sheathing
WITH inside of the room, a sheathing is nailed perpendicular to the wooden beams, which fixes the insulation and is sheathed on top facing material.
A gap is left at one edge between the vapor barrier layer and the decorative cladding, which will reflect heat, and the insulation layer will lie tightly on the foil insulation.
Installation of insulation
The selected type of insulation is pressed into the resulting space between the ceiling beams of the steam room. There should be no gaps between the sheets of mineral wool; to do this, the material is compressed and installed in the seats with little force.
In order for this process to proceed without difficulty, the beams are fixed from each other at a distance less than 1 - 1.5 cm from the width of the wool.
Laying waterproofing
To reliably protect the insulation from moisture and contaminants entering from the outside, it is covered with polyethylene or thermal film.
As in the case of vapor barrier, the film is fixed to load-bearing structure using a construction stapler. For natural air circulation, a ventilation gap is provided between the thermal insulation and waterproofing layers.
Installation of decorative cladding
The insulation pie is ending decorative finishing bath ceiling. Cladding panels nailed to ceiling beams finishing nails. A stainless steel screen is usually suspended above the heater (at a distance of 15 cm from the ceiling). This will protect the roof section from overheating and, as a result, deformation.
To protect the thermal insulation structure from mechanical damage, it is recommended to install a subfloor in bathhouses with an attic.
The most popular and high-quality cladding for the ceiling of a steam room is lining made of linden wood, larch or aspen.
These types of wood can withstand high temperatures and create a healthy indoor microclimate.
Folk materials
In bathhouses with an attic, heat loss is reduced by sawdust, sand and clay. At the beginning of the process attic floor covered with a vapor barrier (roofing felt, isolon) with an overlap. Cover the top with a twenty-centimeter layer of sawdust, on which earth is poured (5 cm layer).
To increase the thermal insulation effect, sawdust can be mixed with sand or clay mass.
Thermal insulating composition
There is an old, reliable recipe that meets all the requirements for insulating ceilings in bathhouses and can be easily prepared with your own hands. To do this, apply a 2 cm thick composition made from cement, clay, sawdust and water in a ratio of 1:2:3:0.7 to the boards from the attic side.
After complete drying, a monolithic thermal insulation board, and is also fire resistant.
Sawdust
It is better to purchase sawdust in carpentry shops - they work with well-dried material, and the shavings and sawdust are dry and lightweight.
In ancient times, sawdust was sprinkled with ash on top, but now a membrane film serves as an alternative. If you plan to use attic space, then the boardwalk is installed ventilation gap.
Expanded clay
If there is no sawdust, do not despair, since you can insulate the bathhouse ceiling using common expanded clay. It has high thermal insulation properties, but absorbs moisture, which is why a vapor barrier device will be required on the side of the steam room.
Expanded clay is poured onto it (30 cm layer) and the layers are completed waterproofing material. Flooring can be installed if desired.
X-teplo.ru
How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse so that the steam warms the body and not the roof
The question of how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse is of interest to those who like to take a steam bath, but we will find out how to maintain steam and temperature in a steam room so that the heat does not escape through the walls and ceiling. In the meantime, let's talk about the physics of heat.
A little about the physics of heat
There is such a thing as heat transfer. A cup of hot coffee cools down in contact with the environment; Although air is a poor conductor of heat, the temperature of the coffee decreases until equilibrium is reached - the law of thermodynamics.
Coffee will not cool below room temperature. How to do this quickly? Speed up heat transfer! Pour coffee into a metal mug. Metal has a higher thermal conductivity than porcelain. And during the transfusion process itself, the liquid comes into direct contact with the air and transfers heat energy to it.
Convection is the transfer of heat due to the movement of liquid or gas. When bathing in a sauna, you pour water onto hot stones, the water evaporates and conveys a hot feeling to those in the sauna.
What happens to the temperature in the steam room? There will be no significant drop in temperature; a ladle of water will not be able to take away the heat from the stones. But saturated water vapor has a density higher than dry vapor, which will occupy the upper position (that’s why it’s hot on the top shelf); the air will take longer to cool down, the less heat transfer from the walls and ceiling of the steam room.
Radiant Heat, emitted in the form of infrared radiation directly from the stove, differs from the other two methods because the medium for heat transfer between the two separate objects no need.
The ideal protection against these forms of heat transfer is a thermos. Essentially, it is a bottle within a bottle, between which the space is divided by a vacuum and a silver screen, a mirror, that reflects radiant waves.
The most vulnerable point of heat loss in this device is the plug. In the case of a bathhouse, this is the ceiling and walls. Their heat transfer depends on the material from which they are made and their ability to retain heat in the bath.
You need to create a barrier against heat loss using thermal insulation, like in a thermos. To protect the material from moisture, there are vapor barrier films. There are two known ways to insulate the ceiling: from inside the bathhouse and from the outside. The choice of material depends on which side of the ceiling or wall the bathhouse is insulated on.
The best way to insulate a bathhouse ceiling is external insulation from the attic side. Here are the advantages:
- There is no loss of space in the bathhouse, dressing room, rest room, shower room, and others;
- Larger selection of insulating materials;
- The requirements for environmental safety and moisture resistance are not as strict as inside the bathhouse;
- Installation is simplified, it is convenient to lay vapor barrier film and insulation.
How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse from the outside?
There are countless options. If the attic floor is made of OSP slabs, then a vapor barrier film is laid on them, and the ceiling of the bathhouse is insulated on top with basalt wool. They are laid in two layers to cover the joints, then covered with a vapor barrier film on top, scraps of lumber are placed on it and that’s it, if the attic is not used.
The old method is even simpler: insulating the ceiling with sawdust and clay. Our ancestors added clay to prevent mice from settling in sawdust.
Insulation of a bathhouse ceiling with expanded clay is done as follows: a reinforced polyethylene film is placed on the substrate, then expanded clay is poured on top. In general, they always tried to make do with local materials for insulation; slag was also poured into attics, pre-screened through a large mesh and an excellent insulating material was obtained. But now more often they make floors and use the attic space for household needs, a kind of attic where you can work and relax.
Special Requirement to the arrangement and insulation of the roof. The floors are arranged like this: a vapor barrier film is laid on the subfloor, logs from edged boards 20 x 100 or 40 x 100 mm are attached, and insulation is placed between the logs. Instead of basalt wool, it is better to insulate it with Eco mineral wool, then cover it with chipboard, plywood, OSP and make the floor.
The construction market is replete with thermal insulation materials. Choose insulation for the ceiling in a bathhouse, which one is better suited to the interior, and which one to external installation not easy. When choosing, be guided not only by the brand, but also by the technical characteristics of the material. Not the least important role is played by the flammability class of the material, its characteristics of thermal conductivity, density, environmental friendliness, ease of installation and transportation.
The inside of the bathhouse is insulated if it is made of heat-conducting material: brick, concrete plates, thin boards. Insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with mineral wool can be done with your own hands by anyone who knows how to use building level and has work skills. A vapor barrier is attached to the wall and ceiling, and a sheathing is made from timber. First, the timber is screwed vertically to the wall with self-tapping screws. Make stands with a distance of 60 cm around the entire perimeter. Then the same design is made on the ceiling.
Advice. Before laying the mineral wool between the bars, make holes in the ceiling: 1- for ventilation (in the far corner from the door), 2- for the insulating duct of the chimney.
Below we will look at how to do this. The transverse dimensions of the beams depend on the type of heat-insulating material placed between them. Mineral wool is sold in rolls. Before installation, you need to cut the roll in half, you will get a strip of 60 cm. Wait for the strip to take its shape. When unfolded, it will swell with air, which will fill the pores. Attach between the slats as shown in the image. Choose environmentally friendly materials.
Then additional insulation of the bathhouse ceiling with foil, which has a dense paper base, which plays the role of a heat insulator; the mirror part reflects radiant energy, trapping heat. Begin to attach the rolled foil from the floor to the ceiling with staples to the bars with an overlap of 5-10 cm, the seam is glued with adhesive foil tape.
Advice. Choose the right quality material. Require a safety compliance certificate. Not all materials are suitable for insulating a bathhouse from the inside. Ensure compliance with the rules for installing chimneys. 90% of fires in stove baths occur due to improper cutting of the chimney pipe through the ceiling, attic floor and roof.
Insulation considered budget option. There are other materials that are more expensive, but effective in their thermal insulation qualities, since they have 3 protection barriers: waterproofing, vapor barrier, thermal insulation.
How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands: a step-by-step guide
Installation of thermal insulation with SPU Sauna-Satu panels does not require preparation. Now that you know how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with mineral wool, make exactly the same sheathing for the panels if the walls are crooked.
Panel sizes: 1, 2 x 0.6 x 0.03 m and 2.4 x 0.6 x 0.03 m have the same width as the standard one roll insulation. It is recommended to soak wooden surfaces in the bathhouse with an antiseptic solution before installing the panels.
SPU Sauna-Satu panels have a tongue and groove connection. In Scandinavian countries, these plates are used to insulate saunas, including using steam. Special sealing foam seals the joints; the panels can be installed both horizontally and vertically. Installation instructions:
1. Prepare: knife, fasteners, sealing foam and aluminum tape.
2. Before installing the first panel, cut the tenon along the entire length of the panel.
3. The first panel is placed on the floor with the cut side and applied to the wall. Before installation, a sealant is applied to the joint.
4. The panel is pressed tightly against the seal, holes are drilled and the umbrellas are driven in at the fastening points. Fasteners, tape, seal - everything is included in the kit. Ask the sellers.
5. The panels fit easily into the groove. Each joint is coated with a sealant. Apply to panel edges before installation.
6. Then the panels are attached to the ceiling beams, the corners are sealed, the excess foam is carefully cut off, and all joints are additionally taped.
7. Below, if you plan to screed the floor, remove the top layer of the panel 10-15 cm from the floor along the entire perimeter and make waterproofing in the places of the baseboard where the wall meets the floor. Apply several layers of waterproofing paste with a brush, stick on waterproofing tape and apply the paste again. Then they make a sheathing for clapboard covering.
8. Finishing clapboard.
Insulation of the ceiling involves cutting it under an insulating box through which the pipe will pass. This is what the factory version of the box looks like.
Thermodynamic processes, occurring in the bathhouse during heating and procedures must remain inside the system (steam room) for as long as possible, and this is only possible with proper thermal insulation of the ceiling, walls, section of the ceiling in the place of the pipe, doors.
Useful video
Benefits from correct selection materials and installation of thermal insulation are obvious - the speed of heating the bath, fuel economy, and most importantly - the pleasure and health that you will experience in the process bath procedures. Be careful. Don’t make a mistake in choosing materials; contact those who perform this work comprehensively: thermal, sound and waterproofing, installation of ventilation systems, and other work.
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vseopotolkah.ru
How to properly insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse
It seems that there are few who would disagree with the statement that the premises of a bathhouse, and especially a Russian steam room, should be warm, that is, have the least temperature contact with the outside environment. Only under such conditions will this structure correspond to its functional purpose, which provides for a special microclimate with high humidity and the same temperature during the period of intended use. Therefore, when arranging a dressing room, and especially a steam room, it is necessary to carry out a number of thermal insulation measures, which will, firstly, help quickly bring the microclimate to the desired condition, and secondly, will allow you to economically maintain the temperature within the desired limits.
In this case, the first place should be the insulation of the bathhouse ceiling, which is a barrier between the hot air rushing upward and the cold attic. After all, the higher the air temperature in the room, the greater the percentage of heat loss that occurs through the ceilings. In a hot steam room, this figure can reach 70%. Many people know this fact, which is why the question arises about how to properly insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse in order to minimize heat loss. The availability of thermal insulation technology is also important, since the steam room in most cases is an author’s project, that is, done from start to finish with your own hands.
Read also: Insulation scheme brick bath from the inside.
Let's further look at the ways in which you can insulate the ceilings in a steam room, both from the attic and from the inside, using industrially produced materials, as well as those made by yourself.
Bathroom ceiling insulation, materials
The first and main requirement for thermal insulation products used in this case is that they are harmless to humans and, preferably, of natural origin. This is explained by the fact that the steam room is a closed space where, during its intended use, ventilation is not provided as such. Can you imagine how you can “get healthier” if “unhealthy” substances are present here, even in small concentrations? Therefore, the use of polymers, even those presented by manufacturers as “eco-friendly” and “hygienic,” is out of the question here.
The fact is that the safety of materials, including insulation, is guaranteed when temperature conditions, close to room temperature. It is unknown how the polymer product will behave at temperatures up to +80 and when the air is oversaturated with moisture. Therefore - no polymers! Moreover, alternative materials plenty.
If we talk about the insulation of ceilings from the attic side, natural traditional heat insulators, such as sawdust and mixtures prepared on their basis, are called for here. Moreover, you don’t even need to spend a lot on such insulation - you can prepare it yourself. Mats made of dry reeds also provide a good thermal insulation effect. By laying 15 cm of such natural insulation for a sauna and bathhouse, you will completely block the path of rising currents of hot air. Natural substances have the unique ability to regulate humidity within certain limits. So in this case you don’t have to worry about additional waterproofing.
As for sawdust, you can prepare your own mixtures with:
In both the first and second cases, you should use sawdust of average fraction. They need to be completely dry. The mixtures can be prepared in a large container with your own hands or use a concrete mixer.
To prepare the first composition you need to adhere to the following proportion:
- lime (paste) - 1 part.
To make a cement-sawdust composition, you should mix:
- Portland cement (M-400) - 1 part.
In both cases, water is added gradually until a composition is obtained that, when squeezed in the palm, does not release water, but at the same time sticks together into a lump. Laying a layer of 20-25 cm on the ceiling panel from the attic side will be sufficient, taking into account the fact that the wood used both for the ceiling and for interior decoration will also contribute to the insulation of the bathhouse ceiling from the inside of the room.
It’s another matter when, for some reason, thermal insulation measures cannot be taken from the outside. Then thermal insulation measures should be carried out from the inside. The materials listed above are unlikely to be used here. Therefore, this procedure will require modern insulation.
Of those that are the safest and at the same time suitable for DIY installation, the most suitable varieties are mineral wool.
This heat insulator is made from natural materials (certain types of rocks) by melting them and forming thin fibers, which form the basis of mineral wool. Insulation materials based on mineral fibers have the following properties:
- low thermal conductivity;
- excellent sound absorption;
- lack of toxicity (including when heated);
- durability (service life - up to 60 years);
- ability to pass steam.
Another “minus” is the ability to actively absorb moisture. Therefore, before insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse with mineral wool from the inside, you should take care reliable waterproofing insulation.
Do-it-yourself scheme for insulating a bathhouse ceiling from the inside
In order to determine the procedure for carrying out thermal insulation measures, you should find out what type of ceiling is made. It could be:
In the first option, the board is hemmed onto fixed support beams - mounted from below. In this case, the bars are closed from the inside and remain on the side of the attic space.
With the flooring method, the board is installed on top of the bars, that is, a flooring is formed in the attic. The bars remain inside the steam room.
In each of the options, the insulation scheme from the inside of the bathhouse is slightly different, so we will consider each option separately.
Thermal insulation from the inside of a false ceiling
As noted above, in this option there is a solid wooden surface on the inside, and the beams are located on the outside. Therefore, it is necessary to create a sheathing in order to have space for laying mineral wool mats. The work flow looks like this:
- A perforated waterproofing film that can allow steam to pass through is fixed to the floor boards.
- A sheathing is created from wooden beams. Calculate the step between them so that it is slightly less than the width of the thermal insulation mats.
- Mineral wool is laid continuously between the beams.
- Taking into account the high humidity in the steam room internal waterproofing It’s better to do it not with film, but with foil material, which will also create an additional thermal barrier. One-sided or double-sided penofol can be used as such a material. It is stapled to the sheathing, and the joints between adjacent panels are closed with aluminum tape.
- A batten is sewn across the beams, thereby creating a counter-lattice, which, firstly, will ensure the presence of ventilation space, and secondly, will create a convenient base for the cladding.
Thermal insulation from inside a deck ceiling
If the ceiling is of a floor type, then the beams are located from the inside. That is, there is no need to create a primary sheathing. Next, everything is done as described in the previous section with the difference that the external waterproofing sheet can be placed on the attic side of the ceiling.
So we figured out how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with our own hands, using different thermal insulation materials that are suitable in this case. Methods of insulation from the inside and from the attic side were considered separately. But do not forget that these technologies can be combined to achieve an excellent thermal insulation effect.
mynovostroika.ru
How and with what to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands: photos, videos, materials
Do you want your bathhouse to please you with comfort and functionality for as long as possible? Then take care of its protection - insulate the ceiling so that cold air does not enter the steam room, and warm air, on the contrary, does not flow out of it. Anyone can do this, because thermal insulation materials can be bought at any hardware store, and the technology for laying them is quite simple. How do professionals recommend insulating the ceiling surface and how to correctly perform the procedure yourself? You will find answers to these questions, as well as photos and videos of thermal insulation installation below.
Choosing thermal insulation material
Important! To treat the ceiling of a steam room, you cannot use organic insulation materials - jute, flax fiber, tow. They ignite quickly, so their use in high temperature zones is unsafe.
We carry out preparatory work
No matter what thermal insulation material you choose for your bathhouse, before its actual installation you should carry out preparatory vapor barrier work.
Why do you need a vapor barrier? It will block the entry and deposition of wet vapors on the thermal insulation. Why is it important? Because if moisture accumulates on the insulation, this will lead to several negative consequences: firstly, weight will increase ceiling structure; secondly, the insulating qualities of the insulation will decrease; thirdly, the service life of thermal insulation will be significantly reduced.
If your bathhouse does not have an attic, use heat-reflecting plastic film or aluminum foil as a vapor barrier. The first material must have lint - it is they that will trap condensation. It is more rational and economical to use foil in those rooms where it is important to maintain a high temperature, for example in a steam room and shower, and film in other, less demanding rooms. Use a staple gun to attach the vapor barrier to the ceiling. Even if you overlap the material, carefully cover the joints with self-adhesive tape to ensure the necessary tightness.
Advice. If you use plastic film, be sure to leave a small gap between the ceiling and the material to ensure unimpeded evaporation of condensate.
In steam rooms with an attic, you can use the same materials, but the roof on the inside must first be treated with clay. The minimum application layer is 2 cm.
The first stage of insulation: arrangement of the floor
Now let's proceed to the direct insulation of the bathhouse ceiling. You need to start with arranging the top floor:
- Fix wooden beams, pre-treated with antiseptics, onto the crowns of the logs or beams of the steam room roof. Especially carefully it is necessary to treat the areas where beams join with roofing materials with excellent technical properties.
- Sew boards to the beams, forming roll-up panels. They should be two strictly perpendicular rows of boards. Use self-tapping screws to secure the panels. Make sure that the lower planes of the boards exactly coincide with the corresponding planes of the beams.
Advice. Before arranging the ramp, draw a diagram of the location of the shields, indicating their numbers and dimensions - this way you will not get confused during the installation process. Keep in mind that there must be a gap of at least 5 cm between the beams and cladding boards, and 20-25 cm between the panels and the chimney.
- After installing the rolls, protect the boards from fungus - treat them with special antiseptic compounds.
The second stage of insulation: laying thermal insulation
As soon as top floor Once it’s ready, you can proceed to installing the insulating material. Whatever insulation you choose, the operating technology is approximately the same.
Thermal insulation material should be installed in all spaces between beams. Lightly compact it so that the insulation fits tightly to the surface. The thicker the thermal insulation material, the higher the effect of its action - in an ordinary bathhouse, 100 mm of insulation will be sufficient. Check several times to ensure that there are no gaps left in the ceiling structure.
Ceiling arrangement for a bathhouse with an attic Separately, it should be said about the mandatory insulation of the chimney. There may be several options:
- “packaging” the chimney in a special pipe made of non-galvanized steel, treated from the inside with a layer of expanded clay;
- insulation of the area around the chimney with expanded clay composition.
The process of insulating a bathhouse with an attic will look a little different. First, the boards are coated with a thick layer of clay. Then all existing cracks in the attic are filled with wooden chips, which are pre-moistened in concrete mortar. And then the thermal insulation material is laid. Better in two or three layers.
After completion of the work, the material must be sheathed with wooden boards. Place them perpendicular to the beams. It is not necessary to use a long board - it can be replaced with a short board, homemade boards with sawdust or fiberboard. The top surface of the bathhouse is treated with a fire retardant. It is advisable to cover all wooden boards in the chimney area with asbestos sheets.
Don't forget that without high-quality insulation With a ceiling, no bathhouse will be able to fully perform its tasks and guarantee a healthy microclimate. Therefore, if you want to get a truly comfortable steam room, once again evaluate the thermal insulation materials described above, choose the appropriate option and get to work, following the installation rules.
What is the best way to insulate an attic from the inside?
Carrying out bath procedures heals and strengthens the entire body. Fans of this action prefer to acquire own bathhouse Location on. Like any other structure, a bathhouse building needs insulation of the walls, ceiling and floor. Since heated air rises to the ceiling, insulating the attic and ceiling space Necessarily. This will help maintain comfortable warmth in the room.
Why do this?
The main rooms in a Russian bath are the steam room and the dressing room. The steam room is supported high level temperature and steam. Heated moist air tends to escape through gaps in the ceiling and walls. It is impossible to make a sealed steam room out of wood. The majority of heat loss occurs through the ceiling as hot air rises. To reduce the outflow of heat, insulation is installed. The thermal insulation material will act as a barrier and protect the steam room from rapid cooling. Insulating the steam room will reduce heat loss.
The ceiling can be insulated from the attic side or from below. Into technology thermal insulation works includes a multilayer structure device. The result of high-quality ceiling insulation will be a reduction in heating costs and an increase in the time of maintaining comfortable heat in the room.
Types of ceiling structures
The bathhouse can be built without an attic or with it. The presence of an attic depends on the type of roof. Flat roof does not involve the construction of an attic space. If the roof is pitched, then you can arrange a cold attic or attic on the second floor. For mansard type roofs need powerful floor beams. For the bath proper insulation carried out outside the ceiling.
According to the method of installation, ceiling structures are:
- hemmed;
- panel;
- flat.
The false ceiling is sheathed with edged or tongue-and-groove boards along the bottom of the attic floor beams. In this case, the load is distributed across load-bearing beams. Whether installation of additional sheathing is necessary depends on the weight wooden planks, with which the ceiling is hemmed. Properly fitted boards can be left as a finishing touch. The filing is carried out inside the bathhouse.
Positive aspects of lining the ceiling from the inside:
- high strength;
- suitable for different room sizes;
- it is possible to arrange an attic;
- the attic space remains functional.
A panel ceiling is a set of parts made from boards or panels. Each panel is equipped with a thermal insulation layer. The sheathing frame is attached to the floor beams. Then the entire area of the room is covered with shields. A moisture-resistant seal is placed at the joints. In the steam room, sealing the seams must be done especially carefully.
Floor ceilings can be installed if the width of the bathhouse building does not exceed 2.6 meters, since the ceiling is laid on the walls. Installation is simple - on top load-bearing walls thick boards are laid. With deck ceilings, the attic space cannot be used to store heavy or large items, as the structure cannot support much weight. Flooring is considered the cheapest type of ceiling structure.
Material selection
A bathhouse is a specific room where a high temperature level leads to an increased fire hazard. All Construction Materials require strict adherence to fire safety regulations. Wooden structures are treated with fire-retardant compounds.
There are also increased requirements for insulation:
- Fire resistance. The insulation should not support combustion.
- Ecological cleanliness. The insulation must not contain toxic substances.
- Moisture resistance. High humidity leads to the destruction of building materials.
- Biostability. Fungi should not develop in the insulation and rodents and insects should not settle in.
- Protective functions. The heat insulator should not let cold air from the attic into the steam room. The insulation acts as a barrier to heat and keeps it inside.
To insulate a bathhouse from the attic side, heat insulators are used in the form of slabs, rolls and loose material.
Bulk
Bulk insulation materials include:
- expanded clay;
- sawdust;
- ecowool;
- vermiculite;
- polyurethane foam;
- aerated concrete.
Their use is effective, since during installation there are no joints that can become cold bridges and reduce the insulating functions. Mineral wool and foamed polyethylene are produced in rolls. Materials in the form of slabs for bath structures are not often used - these are polystyrene foam and penoplex.
Expanded clay is a porous baked clay of different fractions.
For bath buildings he is considered ideal insulation, since it exhibits the following characteristics:
- high strength ensures long service life;
- non-flammable, resistant to high temperatures;
- this is an environmentally friendly natural raw material;
- convenient for backfilling, does not generate dust, does not require preliminary preparation;
- it does not harbor rodents, does not grow mold, or is affected by fungus;
- This is an affordable, inexpensive material.
A large number of positive qualities expanded clay does not eliminate the disadvantages that must be taken into account during installation. Compared to artificial heat insulators, expanded clay has 2 times higher thermal conductivity. This fact is taken into account and a layer of 25-35 cm is covered with expanded clay, which makes it possible to achieve a good heat-saving effect.
The clay granules themselves are light, but the thickness of the backfill layer has a lot of weight.
To withstand considerable weight, you need powerful floor beams and strong false ceilings. During construction, this is calculated in advance.
Next feature expanded clay – susceptibility to water. During sintering, a glassy film is formed on expanded clay granules. This reduces the water absorption capacity of the natural material. But still, for a heat insulator, the moisture absorption rate of 10-20% is quite high. To avoid moisture accumulation in the material, thereby increasing weight, waterproofing is used. If all installation conditions are met, expanded clay insulation will become safe and durable.
Insulation with sawdust is a common method of thermal insulation of bath ceilings, which is still relevant in our time. Wood sawdust – environmentally natural natural material, formed as a result of wood processing. This is the cheapest and affordable way insulate the ceiling from the attic side.
Sawdust has negative characteristics:
- the effectiveness of thermal insulation depends on the density and thickness of the sawdust layer;
- high degree of flammability and flammability;
- high level of moisture absorption;
- there may be mice;
- sawdust requires labor-intensive preparation and additional materials.
To reduce the flammability and hygroscopic properties, clean sawdust is not laid out on the ceiling, but mixed with cement and a multi-layer structure is arranged. The bottom is leveled with clay, followed by wet sawdust mixed with cement and lime. To prevent the previous layer from cracking when drying, you can cover everything on top with earth. This results in “breathable” thermal insulation that is resistant to water and fire.
Modern insulation for a bath - ecowool. It consists of cellulose fibers with chemical additives that improve the properties of the material.
Insulating an ecowool bathhouse is justified because it has many positive aspects:
- flame retardant additives provide non-flammability;
- environmental cleanliness is due to the natural composition;
- thermal insulation is comparable to artificial insulation;
- boric acid in ecowool prevents rodents from infesting and microorganisms from multiplying;
- low weight allows you to apply a layer of any thickness;
- in case of wetness after drying, it retains its thermal insulation properties at the same level;
- long service life.
When using ecowool it is necessary good ventilation attic space. This is necessary to reduce the humidity of the insulation, since the level of moisture absorption can be up to 20%. Ecowool can be applied wet or dry.
Better insulation with a smaller thickness will be obtained by the wet method using spray equipment. This may become a limitation in the use of ecowool.
Vermiculite consists of raw mica, expanded at a temperature of 900 degrees. According to its characteristics, vermiculite resembles expanded clay. It is fire-resistant, reliable, lightweight, bio-resistant, environmentally friendly. But its level of thermal insulation is higher and comparable to mineral wool. Vermiculite easily absorbs water and evaporates steam when ventilated without losing its qualities.
Polyurethane foam is rarely used as insulation for baths due to its high cost. But this insulation is worth the money because it has no negative operational properties. He is liquid plastic, sprayed with a special device. A monolithic and sealed layer is created. Polyurethane foam has the lowest thermal conductivity coefficient and is not susceptible to fire and water. The use of polyurethane foam is limited by the high cost of using third-party organizations for installation.
Rolls
Rolled mineral wool is a common fibrous insulation material that is used to insulate various structures. The composition varies depending on the type of mineral wool. Glass wool is made from an alloy of glass. Raw materials for stone wool rock minerals serve.
The limitation for using glass wool is the difficulty of installation. A type of stone wool, basalt wool, is often insulated independently. For a steam room, you should choose an option with foil glued on one side of the roll.
Among the advantages of using it in a bath are:
- cotton wool does not burn, but melts when a fire occurs;
- high level of thermal insulation;
- low weight does not put a load on the ceiling;
- It is convenient to insulate with mineral wool; due to its softness and elasticity, it can be laid on an uneven base;
- Cotton wool does not contain a breeding ground for mice and insects.
The main disadvantage of mineral wool is its hygroscopicity - moisture absorption can be up to 40%. Since the bathhouse has a humid environment, laying high-quality waterproofing and vapor protection becomes a necessity. The environmental qualities of basalt wool are also questionable. To connect fibers in production, chemical compounds are used that are harmful to human health.
As a vapor barrier and to increase the heating rate of the bath, reflective foil rolls of foamed polypropylene or polyethylene are used. The material has proven itself well because it is lightweight, water-repellent and has a low thermal conductivity coefficient. It is considered an environmentally friendly material, resistant to ultraviolet radiation and chemical solvents. When burned, it breaks down into water, releasing carbon dioxide. Polypropylene foam is resistant to temperatures up to 200 degrees, polyethylene foam - up to 120 degrees.
Plates
Effective cheap slab insulation– polystyrene foam, not used for bath buildings, since when the temperature rises above 70 degrees, the material deforms and melts, releasing caustic toxic smoke.
Foam plastic is being replaced by penoplex - extruded polystyrene foam. It has excellent thermal insulation data and hydrophobic qualities. The light weight and size of the slabs 60*120 cm will allow you to quickly insulate the ceiling. The slabs of material must not come into contact with the hot pipe. It is also susceptible to destruction under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. The disadvantage of penoplex is its low environmental friendliness, so its use for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse is a controversial decision.
Mineral wool can be produced in slabs. It retains all the properties of the rolled version, the only difference being rigidity.
Vapor barrier and waterproofing
The need for vapor and waterproofing depends on the type of heat insulator. Installation of protective layers is necessary for mineral wool, ecowool, expanded clay, and sawdust. There is a certain rule for the order in which layers are placed. The first layer is a vapor barrier, then insulation. The top is covered with waterproofing with a ventilation gap of 2-5 cm.
A high level of humidity in the bath requires a high-quality vapor barrier flooring. It performs two functions at once - it will protect against steam from the room getting onto hydrophobic insulation. The barrier will not allow moisture to be absorbed into the thermal insulation, increase its weight, or worsen its thermal conductivity. Also, a vapor barrier will prevent moisture from penetrating into the attic space, causing condensation to form on the wooden roof structures.
The vapor barrier can be installed from the attic side or inside the room. With internal protection vapor barrier material attached between the rough ceiling trim and the exterior trim. External vapor barrier spreads over the attic floor and beams.
The main task during installation is to create the most airtight vapor barrier layer possible.
The following vapor barrier materials are used:
- clay 2-3 cm thick;
- glassine;
- dry cardboard;
- wax-impregnated paper;
- roofing felt;
- vapor barrier membrane;
- foil with a kraft paper base;
- fiberglass-based foil;
- foil based on lavsan.
Waterproofing is needed to prevent moisture from getting into the insulation from the cold attic. Water can form as a result of condensation when the attic space is not properly ventilated. Roof leaks may also occur. The top layer of waterproofing will protect the insulation from getting wet.
For waterproofing, thick polyethylene film, roofing felt or modern waterproofing films are used.
Step by step guide
Depending on the type of insulation used and the type of ceiling structure, the methods of installing thermal insulation differ. The choice of ceiling structure depends on the size of the bathhouse, budget, number of workers, and type of insulation.
The flooring option for constructing a ceiling is suitable for small bath buildings. This is a convenient and low-cost method. The ceiling is laid on the walls. Such a ceiling can be with an attic, but more often it is made without an attic. The flooring can be grooved lumber or regular unedged but well-fitted boards more than 4.5 cm thick.
Rolled heat insulators are well suited for flat ceilings.
Using mineral wool, insulation will look like this:
- A vapor barrier material is spread over the wooden flooring. Good decision There will be the use of foil foamed polyethylene or polypropylene. It will provide additional insulating properties to the insulating layer. The joints are hermetically sealed.
- Mineral wool in a roll is laid on top. If you are installing basalt wool, which has foil on one side, then you do not need to lay a vapor barrier film. When using polypropylene, the thickness of the mineral wool layer can be reduced by 20%.
- Then the mineral wool is covered with waterproofing material.
- At the end, a rough plank floor is laid.
For a flat ceiling, heavy thermal insulation materials such as expanded clay are not used. It is necessary that the thermal insulation layer be small, less than 15 cm. If the layer exceeds the height of the wall, then it is necessary to construct an enclosing box on top of the wall, lengthening the entire structure.
You can also use traditional way– insulate the ceiling with a sawdust-cement mixture. To prepare it, take a bucket of dry sawdust and half a liter of cement. This mixture is stirred, gradually adding water in small portions. The result should be a moistened, homogeneous, loose mixture.
Gradually cover the entire surface 10 cm thick with this material and compact it well. After drying, a monolithic structure is formed. If cracks appear due to uneven evaporation of the liquid, they are coated with liquid clay. There is no need to lay waterproofing on top, but a vapor barrier layer must be laid underneath.
The construction of a suspended ceiling can be done with your own hands without any help. In this case, wooden beams are laid on the walls. Strong beam floors can become the basis for an attic-type attic. The ceiling is hemmed onto the bottom side of the beam, and the top side will become the attic floor. Thermal insulation is laid between the beams.
All types can be used as a heat insulator bulk insulation, mineral wool rolls and slabs.
If backfill materials are selected, then installation work is carried out in the following order:
- Cheap lumber is stuffed onto the underside of the beams.
- A vapor barrier film is rolled out along the bottom of the rough boards, secured with a wooden strip.
- After protection from steam, the ceiling is finished with clapboard, installed with a gap of 2 cm.
- On the attic side, a surface separated by floor beams is obtained. Insulation of the required thickness is poured into this sheathing. If insulation spills out in the cracks of the rough ceiling, then they must be covered. The heat insulation layer should be 2-4 cm below the beam. This is a natural ventilation gap.
- An attic floor made of boards or wood boards is laid on the beams. If expanded clay is used for insulation, then waterproofing must be laid under the floor.
Mineral wool in rolls and slabs is installed according to the following algorithm:
- Perpendicular to the beams, a vapor barrier layer is attached with slats from the side of the room.
- Then the finishing of the ceiling is installed. Lining is used, edged boards or tongue-and-groove wooden planks.
- Mineral wool is placed in the spacer between the floor beams. When the size of the roll or slab does not correspond to the width between the beams, then a slatted or mesh collection needs to be built underneath. If the thickness of the wool is greater than the beam, then it needs to be increased wooden slats to the missing height. The lack of height can be dealt with in an alternative way - to compensate for a smaller layer of cotton wool by laying penoplex on the top tier.
- Any waterproofing material is laid over the beams with an overlap.
- Rough boards are nailed onto the waterproofing to serve as the floor for the attic.
If a panel type is chosen to create a bath ceiling, then preliminary preparation will be required. The dimensions of the panels are calculated based on the width of the interblock span. Think over the layout. A gap of 4-5 cm is left between the beams and panels.
Panels are made from low-quality lumber, knocked together in two layers perpendicular to each other, with sides attached. All wooden parts are treated with a fire-retardant compound. A reflective vapor barrier material is placed on top of each panel. An alternative could be basalt wool with foil. A piece of mineral wool, a layer of ecowool, a mixture of sawdust and cement or loose expanded clay is laid on the vapor barrier. The panel is ready for installation.
In this form, the panels are lifted into the attic in accordance with the diagram. Next, they begin installation, placing them in the same plane with the floor beams. The gaps between the beams and panels are pierced with insulation. A cellular structure is obtained, which is covered waterproofing film. The attic floor can be installed on the beams. Lifting heavy panels and hanging installation does not imply self-installation.
For bath structures, the criterion of environmental friendliness of the insulation is important, so it is better to choose natural heat insulators that meet fire safety standards. Expanded clay, prepared sawdust-cement backfills, and vermiculite are well suited for thermal insulation. They can be installed independently, following installation technology.
When installing insulation, you need to build a protective steel box for the chimney pipe. Expanded clay can be poured into the box. It is necessary to ensure that wooden structures do not touch the chimney.
When insulating with mineral wool, it is better to choose multi-layer installation with overlapping of previous joints. This method will avoid heat leakage through the seams of the insulation. This will not affect the cost of the heat insulator, since it is sold in cubic meters. There is no need to exceed the thickness of the planned layer, but choose a thinner roll of cotton wool.
Foil materials are more relevant for bath buildings, since the foil reflects infrared heat rays from the ceiling, improving the heating rate of the steam room. This reduces heating costs. The vapor barrier with foil is laid with the reflective side down. To fix the joints of vapor barrier films, foil tape is used. To form a sealed vapor barrier, the seams are overlapped by 10 cm and then secured.
The thickness of the installed layer of a specific heat insulator is calculated based on climatic conditions and the thermal conductivity coefficient of the material.
The average thickness of the thermal insulation layer for natural insulation materials– 25-35 cm, for artificial materials – 15-20 cm.
The greater the temperature difference between the environment and the heated steam room, the faster the hot air tends to leave the room. Proper sealing of all cracks, gaps and technological openings will prevent rapid heat loss. A monolithic thermal insulation layer with a sealed reflective vapor barrier will significantly reduce heat loss.
How and with what to insulate a bathhouse, see the following video.
If the ceiling insulation in the bathhouse is not completed with cold roof, condensation will accumulate on its surface. Cooled drops of water dripping from above onto people in the bathhouse will clearly deprive them of the expected pleasure. Falling further up with warm air currents droplets of water will contribute to rotting and complete destruction of the ceilings, and, in general, the rafter structure of the roof. The only way to prevent such troubles from occurring is to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof.
Planning work on thermal insulation of a bathhouse roof
Before purchasing the building materials necessary for work and preparing necessary tools, you need to draw up a detailed plan for the insulation work to be performed. Drawing up a plan will allow you to avoid mistakes and alterations to the roof structure.
The process of thermal insulation of the ceiling and roof of a bathhouse is not very labor-intensive work, so it is not difficult to do it yourself, even if you do not have sufficient experience in carrying out repair and construction work. The main thing is that you must strictly adhere to the sequence (technology) of performing installation operations. Another argument for self-insulation of the ceiling is the availability of the necessary thermal insulation materials - they are available in almost all hardware stores.
Insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof includes 3 stages:
- Thermal insulation.
- Laying a vapor barrier layer.
- Waterproofing.
At the end of the work, the result is a structure similar to a layer cake, in which the lowest layer is the ceiling, and above it there are successive layers of steam, heat and waterproofing insulators. Then you can begin to select the necessary building materials.
Choosing a heat insulator for the roof and ceiling of a bathhouse
In a well-heated bathhouse, it is necessary to maintain sufficiently high humidity and temperature values. Thermal insulating building material must be fully suitable for such requirements and, most importantly, it must not emit substances hazardous to people and the environment during heating. And besides this, a good heat insulator for a bathhouse should not support combustion, be excessively heavy and inconvenient to move and install.
Minvata
One of the most common options for fiber heat insulators for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof and individual housing construction, available in 3 types:
- glass wool;
- slag wool produced from blast furnace waste (slag);
- stone wool is made from melts of basalt and other minerals.
The main advantage of mineral wool, in addition to very low heat conductivity, is that mold and fungi spores do not develop on it, and insects and rodents bypass it. For hosted on plot of land bathhouse premises, this advantage of mineral wool is very important. It should also be noted that this building material does not change volume and shape when the ambient temperature changes, does not support combustion, and is very convenient for installation due to its light weight. Mineral wool is produced in rolls or in the form of rectangular sheets/panels.
There are two disadvantages of mineral wool - this is the high ability of mineral wool to absorb any moisture (especially slag wool) and the phenolic compounds contained in it. These 2 disadvantages can be easily eliminated: with the help of good hydro- and vapor barriers and preventing contact of air flows and mineral wool, especially in the interior of the bathhouse.
Important: when performing any work with mineral wool, you must wear thick outerwear and use protective devices (goggles and a respirator) to protect your eyes and respiratory organs, since its small elements damage human skin, eyes and lungs.
Expanded clay
This building material consists of small porous clay pebbles. Based on all its properties, expanded clay is considered the most suitable thermal insulator for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof.
This material is safe - it does not support combustion, does not harm people and environment, does not emit substances that are polluting or harmful to humans. Expanded clay is durable and does not collapse under the influence of the sun's rays. Fungal and bacterial spores do not develop in this building material, it is inexpensive and its installation is simple.
Expanded clay also absorbs significantly less water than mineral wool, however, for its installation it is necessary to use hydro- and vapor barriers.
More recently, this heat insulator was one of the most popular among all heat-insulating building materials. But, despite its excellent heat-insulating properties, polystyrene foam cannot be used to insulate the roof or ceiling of a bathhouse - this building material is flammable and, when burned, releases toxic substances that are dangerous to human life. It can also decompose and lose its shape when exposed to high temperatures in the bath.
Ecowool
This is a fibrous natural heat insulator made from cellulose fibers with various additives that provide additional properties - resistance to combustion and protection against the appearance of rodents, microorganisms and insects. Ecowool has a low specific gravity and can fill absolutely all gaps and crevices.
Just like expanded clay, ecowool is an environmentally friendly heat insulator that does not emit hazardous substances into the air.
However, this heat insulator has significant drawback– it absorbs a lot of liquid, which leads to a deterioration in the thermal insulation properties. Therefore, when using ecowool, excellent ventilation of the under-roof space and a high-quality waterproofing layer are necessary. Another disadvantage of its use is the complexity of installation; the “wet” installation method requires special equipment.
This is a “classic” building insulation material that was used before the advent of foam plastic and mineral wool. Sometimes clay is used instead of Portland cement, and sawdust is replaced with straw.
Important: the sawdust used in this mixture must be dried for several months, or even better, for a year.
This is a very cheap and environmentally friendly thermal insulator, but with low thermal insulation characteristics. In addition, making the mixture is very labor-intensive.
Materials for hydro- and vapor barrier
Vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bathhouse is very important, otherwise the moisture circulating in the room will worsen the properties of the heat insulator and lead to the development of mold and fungi both on the ceiling itself and on the parts of the rafter structure. For vapor barriers, special films and coatings are most often used - in particular, with anti-condensation membranes (preferably with a layer of foil). At the moment, vapor barriers from TechnoNIKOL occupy the leading positions on the market.
Both special films and cheaper building materials - roofing felt or thick polyethylene - can also be used as a waterproofing material.
Ceiling insulation in bathhouses
The process of insulating a bathhouse ceiling There are 3 main types of ceilings in baths:
- hemmed;
- grazing
- panel.
Floor-type ceilings are common in small bathhouses, which are used seasonally and quite rarely. On the upper parts of the walls, boards that fit together are placed, fixed without support beams. The resulting structure is very simple, but it cannot withstand a lot of weight, so the thermal insulation layer must be thin and light.
Important: a floor-type ceiling must be erected just below the upper border of the walls in order to obtain space for pouring expanded clay or placing mineral wool.
From the attic side, a film vapor barrier is placed on the flooring so that the foil on it is directed downwards. The vapor barrier itself is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm, and the joints and seams are sealed with special vapor barrier tape with a layer of foil.
Mineral wool is laid on top of the vapor barrier, expanded clay or a cement-sawdust mixture is placed. The insulation layer should not be thick.
Then the heat-insulating layer on top is covered with a waterproofing material (film or roofing felt) on top of which boards or plywood sheets are nailed.
Heated ceiling insulation
For this type of ceiling, it is not the flooring that is placed on the upper parts of the walls, but supporting wooden beams made from beams or spliced boards. The attic floor and ceiling are then placed below and above these support beams. And in the space between the attic floor and the ceiling, layers of heat, steam and waterproofing are installed.
The process of placing a heat insulator is performed as follows. On the roof side, a film waterproofing insulator is placed on the beams and stapled. Next, boards or plywood sheets are laid on top of it. The false-type ceiling is durable, so the resulting under-roof space can even be used as an attic.
Mineral wool is placed between the beams. The thickness of the heat insulator depends on the location of the bathhouse structure: for middle latitudes 15.0-18.0 cm, in areas with severe winter frosts - 20.0-25.0 cm. Layers of heat-insulating building material are laid so that the joints of the previous layer overlap the next layer .
A vapor barrier film is attached to the floor beams below. On top of the vapor barrier, slats are fixed perpendicular to the beams.
After this, the lining is laid, which is nailed or secured with self-tapping screws directly to the slats.
Insulation of a panel type ceiling is the most difficult and is practically not used for self-made. First, the panels are made directly, and then they are lifted up and fixed - either on cross-beams or on the upper parts of the walls.
Important: the choice of the type of ceiling and thermal insulation building material must be made based on the planned budget, construction experience, the area of the bathhouse and the frequency of its use.
When deciding to build a bathhouse, it is important to take into account the specifics of the operation of such a room. This is a significant temperature and high humidity. Therefore, it is required good thermal insulation. A problem is brewing: how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse. Knowing all the nuances of the organization and characteristics of the materials used for thermal insulation, it is possible to optimally calculate your costs without losing the quality of construction work.
Insulation in the bathhouse is one of the important stages Source www.vodkatonik.com
Is it necessary to organize ceiling insulation?
Heated air masses rise upward. The lack of a good thermal insulation system allows moist air to:
- Settle in drops on the ceiling. If the question of how to insulate the bathhouse ceiling was not resolved in time, the drops formed at the top will periodically fall down, spoiling all the pleasure of the bath procedures.
- Reach the roof, attic and ceilings, damaging them.
- Increase resource consumption for heating.
Having decided how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse, it is possible to cope with the following difficulties:
- Uncomfortable stay due to falling drops from the ceiling.
- Destruction of the structure itself.
- Unreasonably large consumption of resources to maintain the required temperature.
Advice! To in the best possible way To solve the problem, you need to know the technological qualities of the materials and the procedure for performing the necessary work.
Main stages: everything you need
To understand how to properly insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse, you need to understand that the work being carried out must resolve the following issues:
- Vapor barriers.
- Thermal insulation.
- Waterproofing.
When properly organized, multiple layers are created. The bottom one is vapor barrier, the second one is thermal insulation and the final one is protection from water. All multilayers must be securely fastened in such a way as to prevent deformation.
Choosing the type of thermal insulation: all options
The specifics of the building must be taken into account when carrying out hydro-, heat- and vapor barrier work. Based on this, it is much easier to choose a ceiling in a bathhouse - what is best made of will depend on the following characteristics of the materials:
- Moisture resistance.
- Fire safety.
- Resistance to different temperatures, even to high ones.
- Ease of installation.
- Weight.
Mineral wool is the most popular option
In the process of solving the problem of how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse from the attic side, the choice often falls on mineral wool. This term itself combines several of the following types.
The advantages of using this material to solve the question of how to insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse:
- low thermal conductivity;
- no flammability;
- low weight;
- ease of installation;
- preservation of parameters during temperature changes.
In addition to the listed advantages, it is important that mineral wool does not attract mice and does not serve as a favorable environment for the development of mold. It is sold in two release forms:
- Rolls.
- Separate panels.
Mineral wool also has disadvantages:
- content of phenols harmful to health;
- small particles of material can damage skin covering, mucous membranes, eyes, respiratory tract;
- moisture absorption.
The weaknesses of mineral wool during operation can be circumvented if the work is carried out correctly in compliance with all insulation requirements. When working on insulation, safety precautions must be observed to avoid material getting on open areas body, respiratory organs, eyes.
Foam plastic: there are more disadvantages than advantages
This material is rarely chosen due to significant disadvantages:
- flammability;
- release of acrid smoke during combustion;
- lack of resistance to high temperatures.
During operation in the bathhouse, the foam will be exposed to high temperatures. Since this circumstance is enough for the material to begin to decompose, expanded polystyrene is not the best choice, despite its good thermal insulation properties.
Expanded clay: cheap and long-lasting
This thermal insulation material consists of small clay, porous and smooth pebbles. Expanded clay – a good choice in terms of thermal insulation, which has many advantages:
- Almost endless service life, as the material does not break down.
- Environmental friendliness.
- Non-flammability.
- Does not create a favorable environment for the development of microorganisms.
- Easy to install.
- Has a low price.
For your information! Expanded clay absorbs water, but much less than all types of mineral wool.
The oldest type of insulation: sawdust with cement
This type of insulation was especially relevant before the advent of modern building materials, for example, mineral wool and other materials that had already become familiar. However, even now it is quite possible to use this option.
The composition is collected in the following ratio (the quantity is determined by the area):
- 1 part cement;
- 10 parts well-dried straw;
- 1 part lime.
Another way to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse from the attic side in the “old-fashioned” way:
- Dry ingredients are mixed.
- The required amount of water is added. The composition should be moderately thick so that it is well distributed over the surface and there are no voids left.
Advantages of the method:
- Environmental friendliness.
- Cheapness.
Flaws:
- lower thermal insulation qualities compared to modern materials;
- labor intensity of the process;
- there is a high probability that additional treatment will be required to seal the cracks formed as a result of drying.
Important! The hay, sawdust or straw that is used must be very well dried.
Ecowool: is natural material always the best?
If you are looking for how to insulate the roof of a bathhouse so that the materials are as environmentally friendly and safe as possible, then ecowool will give many competitors a head start.
Cellulose is used in the manufacturing process of ecowool. To prevent natural fibrous material from serving as a breeding ground for pathological microorganisms and mice, it is subject to mandatory additional processing.
Advantages of ecowool:
- light weight;
- environmental friendliness;
- good adhesion to the surface;
- high thermal insulation.
But the material also has disadvantages:
- ecowool has the property of absorbing moisture, which requires very reliable hydro- and vapor barrier;
- installation complexity, requiring special skills and equipment.
For your information! Ecowool is applied using the so-called “wet method” - spraying.
Video description
And a little about insulation in the video:
Selection of material for waterproofing and vapor barrier
Additional protection from steam and water is necessary, no matter what insulation is chosen. Without it, moisture will reach both the insulation and load-bearing elements, damaging them.
Vapor barrier can be provided by the following coatings:
- aluminium foil;
- geosynthetics, etc.
Advice! If there is a choice, it is recommended to give preference to those materials that have a layer of foil.
For waterproofing use:
- roofing felt;
- plastic film;
- special films.
For your information! Dense polyethylene and roofing felt are a cheaper option compared to special types coverings.
Different types of ceilings: features of the work
Depending on the type of ceiling in the bathhouse, the list and nature of the work required to organize insulation is determined. Types of ceilings:
- Panel.
- Hemmed.
- Grazing.
Each type has its own nuances. If you decide to independently implement how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands, then even a step-by-step guide will not help if you lack the skills and tools. Trusting professionals is the best solution. At the same time, it is quite enough to have general information about the procedure for performing work and materials.
Floor ceiling: for small baths
This type of organization is usually chosen for small-sized bathhouses that are not used on an ongoing basis. A deck ceiling is constructed from boards matched to each other, which are laid on the top of the wall. In this case, support beams are not used.
Important! The floor ceiling has a simple design, but is not designed for significant loads.
Taking into account the peculiarities of organizing this type of ceiling, you should take into account in advance how wide the thermal insulation layer can be used. It is best to make the floor ceiling slightly lower than the top edge of the wall so that mineral wool or other insulation can be placed there.
The order of work carried out from the attic side:
- Laying a vapor barrier layer. If there is a foil layer on it, then it should be facing towards the bathhouse room.
- Laying the selected insulation, which should not be too heavy or thick.
- Laying a waterproofing layer. It is important to pay attention to the joints. If possible, film or sheets of roofing material are laid with an overlap.
- A layer of boards or plywood sheets.
Advice! A flat ceiling can be used only in small bathhouse areas, and when the attic space is not planned to be used.
Panel ceiling: the most complex and time-consuming method
This type of organization is considered one of the most complex. For insulation, separately made panels are used, which subsequently need to be lifted and carefully secured. Each panel is created separately.
It consists of the following structural elements:
- shield - an even layer of boards (this side of the panel will serve as the ceiling in the bathhouse);
- sides attached to the shield;
- vapor barrier, which is used to line inner space shield with sides;
- insulation placed inside the panel box;
- waterproofing coating.
The organization is completed by a layer of boards, which will be the floor in the attic. All elements must be securely fastened to each other.
For your information! Organizing this type of insulation requires the involvement of an entire construction team.
False ceiling: solid construction
How to make a false ceiling in a bathhouse? This type of ceiling involves the use of support beams made of wooden beam. Instead of timber, a structure of several boards firmly connected to each other can be used. They lie on the top of the walls.
The attic floor and bathhouse ceiling are fastened directly to these beams. The resulting free space between them is used to organize insulation, as well as water and vapor barriers.
For your information! The procedure for working with a hemmed ceiling depends on the type of insulation used.
Insulation with sawdust and cement or expanded clay
How to make a ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands, a step-by-step guide will tell you:
- Boards are laid on the floor beams to act as flooring.
- Apply sealant to the gaps between the flooring boards.
- A vapor barrier film is laid on the flooring (from the side of the bathhouse and from the attic). It should also cover the beams.
- Insulation is placed in the resulting containers.
- Waterproofing is placed on the insulation with a whip.
- Waterproofing is fixed to wooden structures.
- On the side of the attic space, a flooring is installed that will serve as the floor. For this, boards or plywood can be chosen.
- From the side of the bathhouse itself, the flooring is covered with clapboard.
Advice! To increase the thermal insulation properties of the bathhouse floor, it is recommended to place a layer of mineral wool on top of the expanded clay or sawdust with cement.
Works with mineral wool
The procedure in which work is carried out both from the attic area and from below:
- On the side of the attic area, waterproofing is applied with an overlap.
- Plywood or boards are placed on top. This is how the attic floor is formed.
- Cut to the room below.
- The free space between the beams is filled with mineral wool.
- Vapor barrier material is attached to the beams. The joints must be carefully sealed, and the edges of the film must be slightly bent, extending onto vertical planes. It is important to carry out the work very carefully so that the film is not damaged.
- Slats are sewn onto the vapor barrier at an angle of 90º to the beams.
- Lining is laid on top of the slats.
If the room is planned to be used in severe frost, then it is necessary to provide a sufficient thickness of insulation - up to 0.25 m. middle zone– about 0.12-0.18 m.
Video description
More about insulating ceilings in a bathhouse in the video:
Briefly about the main thing
The choice of the type of insulation organization and the materials used should be based on the following main points:
- the established budget;
- bath area;
- structural features of the structure;
- planned frequency of use of the bathhouse.
It is an integral rule for arranging a comfortable steam room. Old folk methods that provide an optimal microclimate in a room with a high temperature regime have still not lost their relevance.
Along with them, new materials and technologies demonstrate excellent insulation performance. To properly carry out insulation work with your own hands, you need to consider all the available options and choose the most acceptable one for yourself.
Popular methods of insulation
Based on the experience of professionals, mineral wool, clay, expanded clay and earth can be distinguished from all materials. A bathhouse, steam room and washing room can be insulated in several ways and various materials suitable for such a procedure can be used in the work.
Traditional methods are known for their inexpensive components, environmental friendliness and fire safety, but their implementation will require more time and effort. Modern methods, on the contrary, are simpler in terms of installation, but the materials will entail certain costs.
What should not be used?
If you decide to opt for modern materials, it is worth remembering that foam plastic should never be used in such work. This affordable and popular thermal insulation, when heated, emits chemicals that poison the air in the room, and in places where it touches a hot pipe it can even melt.
Multilayer construction
Properly executed insulation technology consists of several layers and is a so-called insulation pie, where the materials are arranged in the following order:
- waterproofing (membrane film);
- protective foil.
The thickness of the thermal insulation layer averages from 20 centimeters and depends on the type of roof (presence of an attic), the functional purpose of the room and the climate in the region in which the building is erected.
As a rule, in a steam room these parameters are increased and two layers of membrane film are laid in front of the insulation sheets, which will increase the concentration of steam inside the bath.
Mineral wool
Saunas using mineral wool are equally suitable for rooms with and without an attic. The main thing is to provide the ceiling with floor beams on which the insulation cake will be fixed.
This method is quite simple to implement and will not entail large financial costs. Before thermal insulation is installed, all wooden elements are treated with antiseptic agents. Further, all work consists of stages.
Vapor barrier material is divided into several types: regular foil, aluminum foil and membrane film. For a bath room, insulation with aluminum coating or foil insulation is best suited. Along with protection from moisture, it provides heat reflection into the steam room, which allows you to save on heating by two or three times.
Vapor barrier film sheets are overlapped onto a wooden beam using a construction stapler. Using foil tape, carefully glue all joints. This is the most effective way to properly and efficiently provide a bathhouse with thermal insulation.
Installation of sheathing
On the inside of the room, perpendicular to the wooden beams, a sheathing is nailed, which fixes the insulation and is sheathed on top with facing material.
A gap is left at one edge between the vapor barrier layer and the decorative cladding, which will reflect heat, and the insulation layer will lie tightly on the foil insulation.
The selected type of insulation is pressed into the resulting space between the ceiling beams of the steam room. There should be no gaps between the sheets of mineral wool; to do this, the material is compressed and installed in the seats with little force.
In order for this process to proceed without difficulty, the beams are fixed from each other at a distance less than 1 - 1.5 cm from the width of the wool.
Laying waterproofing
To reliably protect the insulation from moisture and contaminants entering from the outside, it is covered with polyethylene or thermal film.
As in the case of vapor barrier, the film is fixed to the supporting structure using a construction stapler. For natural air circulation, a ventilation gap is provided between the thermal insulation and waterproofing layers.
Installation of decorative cladding
The insulation pie is completed with decorative finishing of the bathhouse ceiling. Cladding panels are nailed to the ceiling beams with finishing nails. A stainless steel screen is usually suspended above the heater (at a distance of 15 cm from the ceiling). This will protect the roof section from overheating and, as a result, deformation.
To protect the thermal insulation structure from mechanical damage, it is recommended to install a subfloor in bathhouses with an attic.
The most popular and high-quality cladding for the ceiling of a steam room is lining made of linden wood, larch or aspen.
These types of wood can withstand high temperatures and create a healthy indoor microclimate.
Folk materials
In bathhouses with an attic, heat loss is reduced by sawdust, sand and clay. At the beginning of the process, the attic floor is covered with an overlapping vapor barrier (roofing felt, isolon). The top is covered with a twenty-centimeter layer of sawdust, onto which soil is poured (a layer of 5 cm).
To increase the thermal insulation effect, sawdust can be mixed with sand or clay mass.
There is an old reliable recipe that meets all the requirements in baths and can be easily prepared with your own hands. To do this, apply a 2 cm thick composition made from cement, clay, sawdust and water in a ratio of 1:2:3:0.7 to the boards from the attic side.
After complete drying, a monolithic heat-insulating slab is formed, which is also fire-resistant.
Sawdust
It is better to purchase sawdust in carpentry shops - they work with well-dried material, and the shavings and sawdust are dry and lightweight.
In ancient times, sawdust was sprinkled with ash on top, but now a membrane film serves as an alternative. If you plan to use the attic space, then a plank flooring with a ventilation gap is installed.
Expanded clay
If there is no sawdust, do not despair, since you can insulate the bathhouse ceiling using common expanded clay. It has high thermal insulation properties, but absorbs moisture, which is why a vapor barrier device will be required on the side of the steam room.
Expanded clay is poured onto it (a layer of 30 cm) and the layers are completed with waterproofing material. Flooring can be installed if desired.
