The most wonderful time is when the flower of “female happiness” blooms. At this moment it looks like a white sail. The inflorescence is formed on a long stalk, covered with a snow-white blanket around it(why sometimes?).
Reference! The flowering process is a complex of physiological processes of generative reproduction. Which flow from flowering plants from the period of bud formation to the full opening of flowers. Flower development occurs differently in all plants.
Spathiphyllum is a perennial plant, so flowering occurs after full development. First, the flower grows actively, new shoots appear. Gradually it will get stronger, gain strength and release a peduncle. In a young individual, flowers appear around the second year of life..
Of course, the flowering time depends on the growing conditions. This type capable of budding annually.
We talked in detail about what a blooming spathiphyllum is.
At favorable conditions spathiphyllum blooms in early spring, and the phenomenon continues until autumn. Having rested in winter, indoor flower already in March it is ready to bloom.
Although this is preceded by a short growing season, from approximately February to mid-March. Until the end of summer, and possibly until the end of September, the exotic blooms.
There are times when a plant gains strength over the summer and resumes flowering in the fall.
How many times a year?
Usually, spathiphyllum pleases with its inflorescences in spring and summer. After winter dormancy, just with the onset of long daylight hours. And perhaps, with proper care, indoor exotic flowers bloom twice a year, even in the autumn-winter period.
Is it possible to extend the period of appearance of new buds?
As already mentioned, the duration of flowering and the abundance of inflorescences directly depend on the parameters of the plant’s maintenance. Spathiphyllum can delight you with flowering several times a year. The time when the plant has flowers can last from 1 month to six months. In each specific case everything is individual.
So, for the appearance of new buds, a room temperature of +23-25°C is important. Be sure to avoid sudden changes and drafts. You also cannot do without intense lighting. The “female happiness” flower loves sunlight, but during hot periods you need to be careful with it. In addition to lighting, watering is important. The soil should not dry out completely; the plant prefers a moist growing environment. Don't forget about the soil. Optimal composition:
- humus soil with pine bark;
- ash;
- brick chips.
Important! When the first flowers appear on the spathiphyllum, it is important to provide more careful care. During this period, the flower devotes all its energy to the formation of new buds and the opening of the flower.
Lack of flower stalks
It often happens that the plant looks healthy. The leaves are juicy green and large in size; the flower actively produces new shoots, but the flower stalks do not. Mineral preparations based on nitrogen stimulate the active growth of green mass to the detriment of flowering. To activate the budding process, the plant should be fed with fertilizers based on potassium and phosphorus., it is these substances that are responsible for future flowering. Also reasons for the lack of flowering are:
- inappropriate pot size;
- soil condition;
- the transplant was carried out incorrectly;
- Not proper care;
- insects;
- lack of fertilizers;
- wrong location;
- low humidity.
What to do if “women's happiness” does not blossom?
For the long-awaited buds to appear, spathiphyllum needs to create a kind of stress. Basically, lowering the temperature and reducing watering gives good results, but there should be enough light.
- Move to a cool room with a temperature not lower than +16°C.
- Reduce the frequency of watering.
- The soil in the flowerpot must be dried regularly.
Attention! In such “Spartan” conditions, the indoor exotic must stay for several days. Then bring it into a warm place and strictly follow the following care recommendations.
- Room temperature +23-25°C.
- Humidity 60%.
- Provides bright sunlight.
- Moisturize daily.
- After watering, loosen the soil.
- Apply fertilizer every week.
- Spray with warm water every day.
- Avoid drafts.
- It is possible to use drugs to stimulate flowering “Bud”, “Domotsvet”.
You can find out about all the reasons why a plant does not want to bloom and what needs to be done to make this happen by reading.
By doing everything correctly, with care and love, spathiphyllum will regularly delight you with its beautiful flowers. Which, as it turned out, can be cut, created bouquets and placed in a vase. The inflorescences can remain in this state for up to 30 days. Give cut flowers to your family or friends; of course, they will be happy about this.
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Spathiphyllum is considered a very common and favorite plant. It can be seen in almost every home. In common parlance, the flower is called “women’s happiness.” By folk superstition, he brings happiness to every woman’s home. Obviously, for this reason, many women have such a flower and wait impatiently for it to bloom. According to legends, with the appearance of flowers on the spathiphyllum, the mistress of the house is considered a happy woman. What should those women do if their plant does not bloom, and how can they find out why? What should I do to finally make the spathiphyllum bloom?
Spathiphyllum and its varieties
This flower is considered evergreens and belongs to the Araceae family. Exists almost 45 species of spathiphyllum. Some species can grow small, while others reach large sizes. Those species that most often grow at home grow to a maximum height of 40 cm.
The flower has a medium-sized stem on which smooth round shape bright green leaves. The flowers of the plant look like white and cream color, surrounded by a white or greenish petal. This single petal on a thin stem looks very delicate. His appearance very feminine, which is why it received the name spathiphyllum, which translated from Greek means “bedspread” and “leaf”. If you look closely at the inflorescence, it really resembles an elegant white blanket.
The most popular for growing at home There are several types considered:
- charming;
- profusely flowering;
- spoon-shaped;
- cannofolia.
The flower is easy to care for and blooms only twice a year. This usually happens in spring and autumn. In order for it to develop well, it must be placed in a small pot. It needs to be replanted when the roots in the old container become crowded.
Why doesn't spathiphyllum bloom?
The duration of flowering and the abundance of inflorescences will depend on proper care of spathiphyllum. Flowering period for this plant starts in mid-spring and continues until late autumn. With the beginning of the winter season, the flower begins a period of rest and dormancy.
The flower loves warmth, so it is advisable to create comfortable conditions for it. good development with an optimal temperature of 22-23 o C. If the room temperature is below +18 o C, the spathiphyllum will suffer and grow poorly, the leaves will begin to turn yellow. When a flower regularly throws out flowers, a caring housewife has nothing to worry about. But what to do when the plant only throws out leaves and does not bloom, and how to make spathiphyllum bloom?
If long time the plant does not throw out buds, which means there are reasons for this. May affect flowering the following main factors:
- The flower does not like spacious pots; its roots must entwine it closely and if this does not happen, the buds will not appear.
- You cannot place the pot in direct sunlight, but you need to choose a place with good lighting.
- The plant is afraid of drafts and air conditioning, for this reason the leaves turn yellow.
- Spathiphyllum does not respond well to heavy watering. Its leaves begin to cover brown spots and gradually the foliage dries.
- If the indoor air is too dry and there is insufficient watering, the plant will also not bloom. The humidity level is increased by spraying with a spray bottle. With insufficient moisture levels, the leaves begin to turn yellow.
- The flower needs nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers; if they are deficient, it develops poorly. A lack of fertilizing is also indicated by yellowness on the foliage.
- A plant that is too old will also not bloom. It needs to be seated.
- Flowering is affected by pests and diseases that may appear due to improper care.
Secrets and subtleties of home care
There are many different nuances for caring for spathiphyllum. Knowing the peculiarities of growing a flower, you can achieve regular flowering, the plant will have a healthy and attractive appearance.
Prepared for transplantation special soil composition of equal parts:
- leaf part;
- turf part;
- sand;
- peat.
Replanting must be done carefully so that the root system of the flower is not damaged. After planting, the plant needs frequent watering and spraying. Attentive care and normal conditions will promote good growth.
Spathiphyllum suffers most from pests such as spider mites, scale insects and aphids. They are the most dangerous for indoor plants.
Few housewives know a simple secret - it is better to remove the old leaves of the plant by cutting them off so that new and healthy shoots can quickly form and produce buds.
Basic rules for caring for this delicate flower will help the plant bloom for a long time. Only when comfortable conditions“female happiness” will bloom, give you the opportunity to enjoy the magnificent white color and feel happy.
Thanks to these tips, my spathiphyllum makes me happy with its flowers!
They once gave me a beautiful indoor flower, Spathiphyllum, or simply “women’s happiness.” This is a beauty with large white flowers. But after a month, the tips of its leaves turned black and dried out, and the flowers withered.
We create heavenly conditions at home
This indoor flower came to us from tropical rainforests, which means that the conditions for its maintenance should be as close as possible to natural ones. How to do it?
Temperature - high
The optimal room temperature should be between +20°C and +25°C. In winter, a slight drop in temperature is allowed, but a long stay in a room where it is below 16°C leads to the death of the flower.
Air humidity - high
Dry air has the most detrimental effect on the plant. Therefore, it needs spraying, especially on hot summer days and in heating season when radiators lead to dry air in the room.
Water for spraying must be room temperature, and make sure that it only gets on the leaves. It is ideal if you have a humidifier at home.
Watering - frequent
The flower needs regular watering. Drying out the soil has a detrimental effect on root system Spathiphyllum and leads to yellowing and death of leaves.
Water for irrigation must first be left for 12 hours and then softened. The easiest way to use for these purposes is citric acid: A few crystals are enough for 1 liter of water.
It is advisable to place the flower pot in a tray with pebbles, and make sure that the pebbles are constantly wet. This will create the necessary microclimate around the flower.
Lighting - bright
Spathiphyllum requires good lighting, but it should be shaded from direct sunlight. The flower feels best on windowsills with east and west orientation, but the plant will not bloom on a north window.
How to get Spathiphyllum to bloom
My friends, with whom I shared the bushes of the plant, complain that their favorites do not bloom, unlike mine. The reasons why “female happiness” does not bloom may be the following:
The flowers have a delicate white-green color and an elongated spindle-shaped shape.
- The pot is too spacious. Spathiphyllum, as a rule, begins to throw out flower stalks after the roots have entwined the entire pot. So be patient.
- The plant is old. With age, the flower reduces the production of peduncles, or even stops flowering altogether. In this case, the bush should be divided into several parts and each one should be transplanted into separate pots.
- Lack or excess of minerals. Fertilizers with a high nitrogen content provoke increased leaf growth, thereby slowing down flowering. But potassium fertilizers stimulate the formation of flowers. When choosing a complex mineral fertilizer, pay attention to the percentage of microelements: potassium should be 2 times more than nitrogen.
Stress is good for flowering
Achieve abundant flowering can be done in the following way: keep the flower in a room with a temperature of about +12°C for 10 days. Water minimally during this time. Then place Spathiphyllum in a well-lit place and apply fertilizer. A month later the plant blooms. Tested more than once!
If the plant dies: diseases and pests
A plant doesn't just happen; everything happens for a reason. Carefully consider your pet and choose your option:
Principles of transplantation and propagation
If you buy ready soil V flower shop, the package should say “slightly acidic”. Will do universal primer for the araceae family.
Step-by-step steps for transplantation
- Water the flower with water and carefully remove the lump of earth along with the roots from the old pot.
- Use your fingers to shake the soil from the roots
- Cut off dried leaves and flower stalks - this is done so that the plant “rests” and does not waste energy on them.
- Place a thin layer of expanded clay on the bottom of the pot, and 3-4 centimeters of soil on top.
- Place the flower with straightened rhizomes and cover it with soil a couple of centimeters above the roots, tamping it down slightly.
- Water the plant thoroughly to compact the soil.
- Spray the leaves with water from a spray bottle. Do this daily for 2 weeks.
- That's all. Spathiphyllum will definitely respond to proper care and timely replanting with the glossy beauty of its leaves and lush flowering.
- You can always find more useful articles, interesting videos and tests on our website.
The name "spathiphyllum" comes from two Greek words: "spata" - bedspread and "phyllum" - leaf. It's beautiful tropical plant also called the “white sail”, thanks to its unusual flowers, similar to sails. There are many varieties of this unpretentious, shade-tolerant plant, differing in size, shape and size of the bedspread and intensity of aroma. About 45 species of spathiphyllum are known. IN room conditions The most commonly grown plants are Spathiphyllum profusely flowering and Spathiphyllum Wallis.
Spathiphyllum - white sail. © Kalendarz rolnikow
Botanical description of the plant
Spathiphyllum, or Spathiphyllum (Spathiphyllum) - genus perennial plants from the aroid family ( Araceae), some representatives are popular indoor plants. Homeland of spathiphyllum - South America, East Asia, Polynesia.
Spathiphyllum has no stem - the basal leaves form a bunch directly from the soil. The rhizome is short. The leaves are oval or lanceolate, with a clearly visible midrib. The lateral veins are pressed into top side leaf blade. The petiole at the base expands into the vagina.
The inflorescence of spathiphyllum is formed in the shape of a cob, on a long stalk, with a veil at the base. The white blanket quickly turns green after flowering.
Features of growing spathiphyllum - briefly
Bloom: depending on care, either once a year (in spring), or twice a year - in spring and autumn-winter.
Height: The plant usually develops quickly.
Light: diffused, without direct sunlight, can grow in partial shade.
Temperature: in the spring-summer period it prefers temperatures within +22...+23°C, not lower than +18°C. During the autumn-winter period optimal temperature not lower than +16°C, as this inhibits the development of the plant.
Watering spathiphyllum: in the spring-summer period and during flowering, abundant, between waterings upper layer should dry out. In autumn-winter, watering is moderate. When watering, the substrate should not dry out, but should not be excessively waterlogged.
Air humidity: high, spraying is useful. To increase humidity, you can place the pot with the plant on a tray with damp expanded clay, moss or other porous material.
Feeding spathiphyllum: from March to September and during flowering, complete mineral fertilizer of low concentration (1-1.5 g per liter of water).
Rest period: from October to January the temperature is not lower than +16°C, moderate watering.
Spathiphyllum transplant: in the spring, as needed, when the roots fill the pot.
Reproduction: cuttings and division of rhizomes.
Caring for spathiphyllum at home
Spathiphyllum can grow in diffused light and in partial shade. In the shade, spathiphyllum leaves become dark green, the leaf may take on a more elongated shape, flowering will become rare or stop.
If you find these signs, then the plant does not have enough lighting. The plant should be protected from direct sunlight; keep this in mind when placing the plant on south-facing windows. Northern windows are well suited for spathiphyllum, but on southern windows spathiphyllum blooms more abundantly and longer and is much larger in size.
Spathiphyllum is a heat-loving plant; in spring and summer it prefers temperatures within +22...+23°C, not lower than +18°C. In the autumn-winter period, the optimal temperature is not lower than +16°C, as this inhibits the development of the plant. Temperatures below +10°C are critical, since at this temperature plants rot and may die. Spathiphyllums do not tolerate drafts.
Watering
It is necessary to water spathiphyllum all year round. During flowering, in spring and summer, abundant watering is required, possibly from a tray, but the top layer of soil should dry out between waterings. In winter, watering is moderate. The earth ball should not be allowed to dry out; at the same time, stagnation of water in the pot can be detrimental to the plant.
For watering and spraying, use only settled water (it must stand for at least 12 hours). Drooping spathiphyllum leaves indicate that it lacks moisture. Excessive watering causes dark spots to appear on the leaves.
Air humidity
All spathiphyllums love high humidity. Spraying with soft water, tray with wet moss or sand, aquarium atmosphere, warm shower from time to time - all this has a beneficial effect on the growth of spathiphyllums - natives of humid climates. It is no coincidence that the tips of their leaves are elongated into a sharp dropper and droop down: this is how the leaves get rid of excessive flows of tropical downpours.
In the dry air conditions of most rooms, even with timely spraying (2 times a day), drying of the leaf tips is observed. When the spathiphyllum blooms, it is necessary to spray it carefully so that water does not get on the cover and the cob.
From October to January the plant has a dormant period, but if it is provided with sufficient air humidity, spathiphyllum can bloom in winter.
Feeding spathiphyllum
During the active growing season (from March to September), spathiphyllums are fed with low concentration complete mineral fertilizer (1-1.5 g per liter of water). Can be fed with special fertilizer for indoor plants, not containing lime, for example, “Azalea”, “Flower”, etc.
Good results are achieved by alternate feeding with solutions of mineral fertilizers and fresh mullein, diluted in a ratio of 1:15 or 1:20. After fertilizing and before fertilizing, the plants are watered generously with water at room temperature. If spathiphyllum blooms in winter, then it is fed with the same fertilizers after 3-4 weeks. The appearance of brown spots on the leaves indicates an excess of nutrients.
Transplantation and substrate
The signal for replanting is the roots, which have filled the entire volume of the pot with the plant. It is better to replant in the spring. Spathiphyllum is sensitive to root damage; replant carefully.
The soil for replanting is slightly acidic (pH - 5-6.5). Excess moisture harms the plant, so the soil must be loose so that excess moisture can flow freely into the pan. Spathiphyllums feel quite good in ordinary humus, to which you need to add brick chips and pieces of charcoal. A mixture of equal parts of leaf and turf soil, humus, peat and river sand is suitable.
Can be used ready substrate for aroids, adding pieces of charcoal to it. Required good drainage. The pot for spathiphyllum is chosen a little larger than the previous one, too big pot will slow down flowering. It is better to spill the soil with a dark pink hot solution of potassium permanganate.
After transplantation, plants need warmth, moderate watering, and frequent spraying, all of which contribute to rapid rooting. Plants take root better if greenhouse conditions are created for them for a while (cover transparent material), but do not forget to ventilate them.
Spathiphyllum wallisii. © Flower Lady Reproduction of spathiphyllums
Spathiphyllums are propagated by division or apical cuttings, less often - seeds.
Rooted plants are planted in 9-centimeter pots. The composition of the soil is as follows: leaf - 1 tsp, peat - 1 tsp, turf - 1/2 tsp, sand - 1/2 tsp. During transplanting and handling, if possible, damage to the roots should be avoided, as plants easily wither. After transplantation, abundant watering and spraying are necessary.
Propagation by dividing the bush is best done in the spring when replanting.
When propagated by cuttings, the shortened stem of spathiphyllum begins to branch: new growth points are formed, young leaves unfold in several places. If you do not have the task of creating a large thicket, the bush can be divided so that each fragment retains a growing point and (if possible) roots. However, the roots may grow a little later.
Spathiphyllum divisions are planted in 12-15 cm pots in a special “aroid” mixture consisting of humus, unsifted leaf soil, peat and sand (1:1:1:0.5). Add 10 g of ammonium nitrate and 5 g of superphosphate and potassium nitrate to a bucket of such a substance. In addition, add pieces broken bricks, tree bark and coal, dry mullein.
You can use a substat of another composition: leaf, coniferous soil, humus, peat, sand (2:2:2:2:1) or leaf, peat, coniferous, humus soil, sand (2:4:1:1:1) With the addition of pieces of charcoal.
Spathiphyllum, or Spathiphyllum (lat. Spathiphyllum). © Joe Judd Types of Spathiphyllum
Genus Spathiphyllum ( Spathiphyllum), according to the latest data, unites 45 species of perennial stemless plants with short rhizomes of the araceae family, some of them are very decorative. Spathiphyllums are common in tropical America, the Philippine Islands, and tropical rainforests in Venezuela, Colombia, Guiana, and Brazil.
Spathiphyllum heliconifolia(Spathiphyllum heliconiifolium). Homeland - tropical rain forests Brazil. Plants up to 1 m tall. The leaves are oblong-elliptical, 35-50 cm long and 20-25 cm wide, shortly pointed, glossy, dark green, wavy at the edges. Petiole 75-90 cm long, vaginal from the base (5-9 cm long). The inflorescence is a spadix, 8-10 cm long, white, then darkening to almost black. The spathe is oval, almost 2 times longer than the cob, 15 cm long and 10 cm wide. Valuable ornamental plant, suitable for growing indoors.
Spathiphyllum cannofolia(Spathiphyllum cannifolium). Homeland: Venezuela, Guiana, Thailand. A plant with large, bright green, ovate leaves similar to canna leaves. A white-green spathe with very fragrant flowers on a yellowish-green spadix. A wonderful indoor plant.
Spathiphyllum spoon-shaped(Spathiphyllum cochlearispathum). Homeland - Brazil. This is a large plant up to 1 m high, with oblong-elliptical leaves. The length of the leaves is 30-40 cm, width is 15-20 cm. The leaf blade is dark green, glossy, wavy at the edges, supported by a long (up to 50-70 cm), strong petiole. Inflorescence spadix, white. The bedspread is oval, long.
Spathiphyllum profusely blooming(Spathiphyllum floribundum). Homeland: Colombia. The plant is medium-sized, up to 50 cm tall, the leaves are oval-lanceolate, 20-25 cm long, 9-12 cm wide. The number of leaves can be more than 40. The spathe is white. Blooms profusely and for a long time. Flower buds are laid in the axils of healthy leaves, on which the harvest of next year's inflorescences depends.
In the USA, the variety Mauna Loa was obtained from Spathiphyllum profusely flowering. A plant with a pure white broadly lanceolate or broadly elliptical, gracefully concave spathe 10-12.5 cm long and up to 5-6 cm wide. A creeping stem with extremely short internodes, most often underground. Petioles 10-15 cm long, leaf blade 15-20 cm long, 5-6 cm wide, bright green, oblong-lanceolate or oblong-elliptic, long-pointed at the apex (tip up to 1.5 cm). Peduncle up to 25 cm long, flowers collected in a spadix 3-5 cm long. on a very short leg. ‘Mauna Loa’ is an excellent cut and pot plant (blooms throughout the year), the inflorescence lasts for more than a month when cut.
Spathiphyllum charming(Spathiphyllum blandum). Homeland - tropical America. A plant with dark green, elongated lanceolate leaves with an extended tip. The petioles are long and strong. The inflorescence is a spadix, surrounded by a greenish-white blanket, which is shaped like a small flag. Therefore, the popular name of this flower is flagolite. It blooms from April to June and has a large number of inflorescences.
Spathiphyllum Wallis(Spathiphyllum wallisii). Homeland - tropical rainforests of Colombia. A plant 20 to 30 cm high with a short rhizome and a rosette of dark green oblong-lanceolate graceful leaves. The cob is white, the spathe is narrow, three times as long as the cob, at first pure white, then turning green. Flowering is abundant and long lasting. The plant is unpretentious and shade-tolerant. Grows well indoors.
Spathiphyllum floribundum. © Snapshooter46 Diseases and pests of spathiphyllum
If the air around the plant is dry and watering is insufficient, spathiphyllum can be affected by pests - aphids, scale insects and spider mite.
Shchitovka or shield aphid gets its name from the waxy shield that covers the body of the adult pest. At first, at a young age, the scale insect is hardly noticeable, but quickly multiplies, covering the stems and leaves dark spots. Adults are motionless and sit under shields, from under which larvae crawl out and spread throughout the plant.
At this time, they are destroyed by spraying with a soap-tobacco solution, to which you can add a little kerosene or denatured alcohol. Adult pests along with their scutes are removed with a damp swab, but you still need to treat the entire plant with an insecticide or soap solution to remove the larvae.
Aphid – small insect may be green, gray or black in color. It settles on the underside of the leaf and feeds on plant sap, which leads to the leaves drying out and curling. Reproduces quickly. It is destroyed by ready-made preparations that are sold in stores or by solutions of nicotine sulfate in water and soap in a ratio of 1 g. nicotine - sulfate per 1 liter of soapy water.
After treating the plant a day later, the spathiphyllum should be washed thoroughly, covering the soil with polyethylene. If necessary, repeat the treatment.
To prevent spathiphyllum from being affected by pests (scale insects and aphids), it is enough to regularly wash or wipe the leaves with a sponge and water. When “bathing” spathiphyllum, do not forget to cover the soil in the pot with film.
Spider mite- a very small red spider. Appears on the underside of leaves and envelops them in thin white cobwebs. They are destroyed by spraying and washing the leaves, especially on the underside, with water, weak tobacco infusion with soap, pollination (in the fresh air, outside rooms) with ground sulfur, or the plant is treated with ready-made systemic insecticides. After treating the plant, 2-3 hours later the leaves should be washed with warm water.
Spathiphyllum leaf tips dry out, although regular spraying of the flower and watering. In addition, dry brownish-yellow spots appear on some leaves, similar to burns, although straight Sun rays do not fall on the flower.
Spathiphyllum does not bloom
Cause. Spathiphyllum blooms when the roots fill the entire pot. That is, he loves cramped and low pots. And for abundant flowering, spathiphyllum must be kept in the cold for 2 weeks at a temperature of +9°...+12°C so that it can “rest.”
The leaves of spathiphyllum turn black around the edges and dry out., then they die completely, sometimes young, not yet untwisted leaves dry out
Cause. Either you flood the plant, or you don’t add dry air, or it lacks nitrogen or phosphorus. In the latter case, feed with nitrogen-potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.
Spathiphyllum does not grow
Cause. Poor growth can be caused by excessive light and overwatering.
We have several spathiphyllums growing at home - extraordinary beauty! Indeed, the plant is quite unpretentious. The main thing, probably, that you need to remember is abundant watering and frequent spraying of the leaves! We wish you success and look forward to your advice!
The conversation in this article will be about wonderful spathiphyllum flower, which decorates the houses and apartments of many housewives. We will look at the reasons poor growth and flowering of spathiphyllum. We will tell you how to water, and how often the flower needs feeding. In this article you will learn how to make spatiphyllum bloom and much more.
Spathiphyllum or spathiphyllum is a genus of perennial plants of the Araceae family that grow in the tropics (Central and South America). IN wildlife Aroids grow in damp and swampy forests (near rivers and streams).
Did you know? The flower is called “women’s happiness” due to the fact that many single women met their love after spathiphyllum appeared in the house. This flower is also known for awakening “dormant” love and giving some women the opportunity to become mothers.
The main mistakes of improper care for “female happiness”
It’s nice to see a fragrant flower in your garden or on your windowsill, but the time comes when the spathiphyllum begins to bloom poorly for unknown reasons, the color of the leaves fades, and the plant appears sickly. In the article we will explain why spathiphyllum does not bloom.
Humidity
In the section above, you read that the homeland of spathiphyllum is subtropical forests, where it is always warm and humid. Based on this information, you need to recreate a similar microclimate in the room with the flower. This is achieved by spraying the plant, as well as installing a tray with wet moss or sand. You can simply pour water into the tray. Insufficient humidity can cause the spathiphyllum to begin to dry out.
Important! You need to humidify the air at any time of the year.
Plant nutrition
An important part of caring for a plant is feeding it. Spathiphyllum requires mineral fertilizer, which is applied in the spring. You can additionally feed the flower in the summer and during flowering. In winter, fertilizers are applied very rarely and in smaller doses.
Important! When the plant has not yet grown, fertilizers must be applied once every 2 weeks.
When your spathiphyllum has become an “adult”, fertilizing can be done once a month.
Dry air
Dry air is contraindicated for Spathiphyllum. It’s worth remembering this in winter, when heating systems very dry air. In addition to spraying, do not forget about the air temperature, which should not fall below 18˚C. The ideal temperature for the plant will be +22˚С.
Did you know? Spathiphyllum is also called the “house spirit”; it is believed that this flower is a Guardian Angel that scares away uninvited guests.
Incorrectly selected pot
Oddly enough, it is the pot that may prevent spathiphyllum from blooming. It has been noticed that the plant blooms only in a cramped pot, when the roots fill almost the entire space. This happens because spathiphyllum tries to take up all the free space in the pot, while growing the root mass. For this reason, all energy and reserves are spent on root growth, and there is no energy left for flowering.
The solution to the problem is a small (but not small) pot for the plant. The maximum diameter of the new “house” should not be more than 18-20 cm. It is also worth remembering that replanting is carried out at least once every 4 years. The signal for replanting will be noticeable old roots protruding from the ground.
Why spathiphyllum does not bloom, plant stimulation
If everything is created for a flower the necessary conditions, but it still doesn’t want to bloom, then You can resort to stimulating the plant using several methods.
1. Increase in temperature. IN summer time Spathiphyllum can be made to bloom by raising the temperature to 24-25˚C.
2.Increasing illumination. At the same time, there is no need to leave the flower in the scorching sun, as it will get burned. You can place it in a place where the spathiphyllum will be in partial shade at the peak of the sun. One option is to install table lamp near the plant (however, do not get carried away so as not to burn the leaves).
We have looked at standard techniques, now let’s move on to “stressful” ones. To make a plant bloom, you need to place it for 20 days in stressful (unusual) conditions, namely:
- reduce watering (in the last week you can only moisten the leaves);
- place in the shade or semi-dark place;
- reduce the temperature to 16-17 ˚С.
This method is based on contrasting conditions. After almost to the limit permissible mode the flower is returned to a favorable environment.
Important! The stress method is used if the plant was previously kept in good conditions and yet it did not bloom. Usage this method will not damage healthy flowers.
What to do if the leaves turn yellow
A variety of factors can lead to spathiphyllum leaves turning yellow and the plant not blooming. We will look at the main reasons for the yellowing of leaves on a flower.
- Flower renewal. After spending a large amount of energy (during flowering or after an illness), spathiphyllum enters the dormant stage. For this reason, the leaves turn yellow and fall off. This way the plant regains its strength faster.
- Exposure to direct sunlight. If a flower stood in the scorching sun, its leaves could get burned and turn yellow. Evidence of burns is the appearance of dry brownish-yellow spots on the leaves. Such conditions are stressful for the flower, so you should not expect flowering in the near future.
- Diseases. When affected by mealyworms, spider mites or thrips, the plant begins to hurt, and yellowing of the leaves is one of the signs.
- Low air humidity. Since the plant is very demanding of moisture, its absence leads to yellowing of the leaves. This should be prevented so that the flower does not lose too much strength and dry out.
Why do the leaves of “female happiness” dry around the edges?
If the leaves of a spathiphyllum begin to turn black at the ends, the cause is too dry air. In this case, the ends dry out by only 1-2 mm. To get rid of this problem, you need to moisten the plant more or place it next to the aquarium.
What to do if the plant withers
It is impossible to say unequivocally why the plant withers. Let's look at the main reasons why spathiphyllum began to “mope.”
If the leaves of a spathiphyllum are deformed, then the reason must be sought in the lighting. With a lack of light, the leaves and petioles of the plant begin to stretch and become deformed. The lack of proper lighting is the answer to the question: “Why does spathiphyllum have small leaves?”
