Get a rich harvest of vegetables own dacha– it’s great if there is a place to save it. For placement harvested you can make a vegetable pit.

The simplest storage for vegetables at your own dacha is made without the use of expensive materials, and you will need the simplest tools.

Choosing a site for construction

The place for the vegetable pit must be chosen correctly

To make your vegetable pit serve you well for a long time, you need to choose the right place for it.

What to consider when choosing:

Builder's advice: Before starting work on arranging a vegetable storage facility, it is recommended to complete at least its simplest design. A pre-drawn plan will make it much easier to navigate while doing the work.

Basic requirements for construction technology

There are several key requirements for vegetable pit

Let's consider the basic requirements for the technology of constructing a vegetable pit:

1. Selection of dimensions

When completing a project, it is necessary to indicate in it the dimensions of the future pit. Its depth should ideally be approximately 2-2.2 meters, width - 1.5. It will be quite comfortable to be in, and the temperature can be easily maintained at +5 degrees.

This is optimal for storing vegetables - they will not spoil and will retain maximum useful substances. Humidity must be maintained at 90% - vegetables will not wrinkle and dry out.

2. Waterproofing

If the level groundwater fluctuates at around 1-1.5 meters from the surface, and it is difficult to choose another place for the pit, you can try to arrange drainage system. In some cases, it may also be necessary to provide good waterproofing.

Of course, this will result in some costs, both in terms of finances and labor. But if you neglect this stage, you should prepare for the fact that sooner or later the water will find a loophole and penetrate inside.

Take note: even if the walls of the pit are flooded concrete mixture, additional waterproofing must be provided.

3. Bottom device

Sand and crushed stone are laid at the bottom, then bitumen or other similar material is poured onto this cushion. Flooring best arranged in the form reinforced concrete slab. If it is impossible to provide this option, strong boards are laid on the base.

Important to remember: ventilation must be provided in the pit.

4. Ventilation

Most simple option is a construction natural ventilation, for which two pipes are used, placing them at different heights from the floor surface in the garage. One pipe is a supply pipe, the other is an exhaust pipe, and their outer ends should be brought out as high as possible.

This ensures constant influx fresh air. This helps keep vegetables in edible condition longer.

Materials and tools

To build a vegetable pit you need a set of certain materials and tools

To complete the work you will need the following tools and materials:

• shovels;
• buckets for lifting the earth up;
• container for mixing the solution;
• fasteners (nails or screws);
• hammer or screwdriver;
• floor boards and covers;
• crushed stone;
• sand;
• cement;
• metal corner;
• insulating material.

Stages of building a vegetable pit with your own hands

1. To begin, check the project prepared in advance and dig a pit in accordance with the dimensions indicated in it. The simplest option is to make a hole in the ground with sides 1.2x1.4 m, depth 2 m. The work should not be done alone, but with an assistant.
2. When the pit is ready, it is necessary to strengthen the walls as best as possible. No matter how convenient the composition of the soil is for work, over time the earth may crumble and your cellar will be filled up.

   Therefore, you should make the bottom of concrete as carefully as possible, and place metal frame. The best material is a metal corner - it is used to make a frame around the entire perimeter of the structure.

3. A barrier is installed between the frame and the wall of the future cellar, which protects against crumbling earth. It is a fine-mesh mesh.

   A frame is placed on top of the frame, the task of which is to hold the lid. It can be made from boards on which thermal insulation material is strengthened. The lid should fit as tightly as possible to the frame - this way the cold will not get inside the pit.

Features of the device in the garage

Installing a vegetable pit in the garage requires additional conditions

For example, when strip foundation work will be carried out differently than with slab. Best option– plan a place to place the cellar during the construction of the garage. Then it will be possible to leave a reinforced hole in the base for the subsequent arrangement of the pit.

What to consider when building a pit in the garage:

• The floor level in the garage where the pit is being constructed should be 30 cm higher than the foundation.
• Make sure that when manipulating the integrity of the foundation, no harm will be caused to the building itself.
• You should not choose large dimensions for the pit - a depth of 1.7 m and sides of 2 m each is sufficient. The stages of arrangement are almost no different from the construction of a vegetable pit in an open space.

Please note: When making a vegetable pit inside the garage, you need to take into account the method of arranging its base.

Before starting work, try to draw up as many detailed plan works This will make it easier for you to complete each of the stages; in addition, when compiling, you can consult with knowledgeable people and change the plan according to their comments.

If you carefully and carefully follow the technology, you can independently build a good structure at your dacha that will allow you to preserve your harvest for quite a long time and will last for many years.

IN video instructions you can see how to make a vegetable pit in conditions of close groundwater:

Groundwater poses a risk of creating high humidity in the cellar, which can lead to destruction of reinforced concrete structures structural elements on which the building stands. Vegetables and other products stored in the basement can also suffer from rotting fungi and other types of microorganisms for which dampness is an ideal breeding ground. Penetrating from the cellar into the living quarters of the house, representatives of flora pathogenic for humans cause respiratory diseases, allergies and other acute and chronic diseases.

When building a cellar and the foundation of a house, it is very important to use external and internal waterproofing, allowing to protect the structure from the adverse effects of soil, rain and melt water. This is one of the most critical stages of construction, consisting of a set of measures.

Types of waterproofing

Waterproofing measures can be divided into the following types:

1. Anti-pressure - for protection against the effects of groundwater, which is at a level exceeding the height of the cellar floor. It consists of covering the surface of the floor and walls with at least three levels of slurry solutions and bitumen mastics, which are based on polymers. Before applying waterproofing, the cellar walls are treated with a silicate primer.
2. Non-pressure type - protects against the adverse effects of precipitation and possible floods. Is a coating internal surfaces basement with bitumen mastics.
3. Anti-capillary - allows you to protect the room from water seepage through capillaries in the concrete surfaces of the basement. When performing this, the cracks and damage present in them are additionally processed.

The main function of waterproofing is performed by a properly constructed drainage system and blind area around the building, which drain away from it precipitation. Insulating the foundation and floor of the cellar prevents groundwater from entering. If necessary work were not carried out during the construction phase, internal waterproofing will reduce humidity.

The procedure for performing waterproofing during the construction of a cellar

1. The dimensions of the pit for the cellar are calculated taking into account the height of the ceiling and ceilings, and the future thickness of the floor. Typically, the ceiling of the cellar is approximately 50-100 cm below the level to which the soil freezes. Therefore, the estimated trench depth is about 3.5 m.
2. To ensure waterproofing of the building foundation and cellar walls, the dimensions of the pit must be increased by an additional 1 m on all sides.
3. The soil surface is leveled, creating a slight slope from the center to the periphery of the pit. A layer of clay 10 cm thick is laid and compacted.
4. Trenches are dug for drainage with a depth of 30 to 50 cm, also with a slight slope towards the edges of the pit.
5. The bottom of the drainage trenches is covered with geotextile so that it protrudes beyond their limits by approximately 85 cm.
6. Gravel is poured onto the laid textile to a height of 50 mm.
7. Laying in progress drainage pipes with a slope of 5 mm per 1 m.
8. Gravel is poured onto the pipes, the layer depth of which should be approximately 25 cm. To prevent clogging of the pipes, it is advisable to wash the gravel before laying.
9. The protruding edges of the geotextile are lowered onto the pipes. The pipes must go into a collector or drain hole.

Important! Asbestos cement, plastic or ceramic pipes are used as drainage pipes. Their purpose is to collect and drain water to a specially equipped place.

10. Then layers of crushed stone and sand are laid on the bottom of the pit, the thickness of each of which can be from 10 to 15 cm. The surface of each of the filled materials is compacted.

Important! It should be taken into account that sand protects rolled types of waterproofing from damage by crushed stones that have sharp edges.

11. After the base is prepared, one of the types is laid roll waterproofing, for example, roofing felt. Welding of material joints is carried out using gas burner. There must be at least two layers, each of them is covered with bitumen mastic. But, if the groundwater exceeds the level at which the cellar floor is located, the number of layers is increased by another one or two.

Important! If food will be stored in the cellar, the floor should not be insulated. This will allow you to maintain indoors optimal temperature, both in winter and summer.

12. Construction of formwork and subsequent pouring of concrete. Rigid mixtures that do not allow water to pass through are best suited for making concrete. In addition to the floor, the walls of the cellar can also be made of concrete; they can also be built of red brick. Sand-lime brick cannot be used in basement construction.

If the cellar was built earlier, but needs waterproofing, you can dig out the walls almost to the foundation and build a blind area and a clay castle around them.

Waterproofing walls

After the walls are erected, the external insulation of the cellar from moisture is carried out as follows:

1. Plastering external and inner sides cement mortar, in which the percentage ratio of cement and water is 1:
2. 2 layers of rolled waterproofing are glued to the surface of the walls.
3. WITH outside construction, a pressure wall is erected, which can be constructed using red bricks. Its purpose is to support and protect against destruction of rolled waterproofing.
4. Creating a clay castle with a slight slope to the sides. It must be connected to the previously laid layer of clay at the bottom of the pit, be at a distance of at least 50 cm from the walls, and have a thickness of 10 cm. To give density to the castle, wooden blocks are used.

Important! Thanks to clay castle The pressure wall is protected from the effects of groundwater.

5. Soil is poured into the resulting void between the castle and the walls. A blind area is created from clay and crushed stone on the ground surface with a slight slope in the direction opposite to the building.
6. The part of the walls that rises above the soil level is covered with coating-type waterproofing.

Indoor insulation

First of all, all existing joints at the boundary between the floor and walls are treated with bitumen mastic. Concrete structures that are newly created and not completely cured are lubricated with penetrating type insulating materials. If the cellar was built a long time ago, mastic is simply applied to them.

After treatment with bitumen mastic, plaster is applied, for which it is used cement mixture. If there are cracks in the walls, for the construction of which blocks or bricks were used, a 2-centimeter layer of waterproofing mastic is applied to them. It is covered with a coating mastic that has a light texture. This will give a uniform shade to the walls. Then plastering is done using a cement mixture.

The walls can be made rigid by attaching a frame made of reinforcement, onto which 3 or 4 cm thick plaster is applied. The high-quality preservation of food in the cellar is facilitated by the application of biologically stable coatings.

Waterproofing materials

1. Penetrating materials
They allow you to block the flow of moisture through small capillaries in concrete. It consists of a cement mixture, chemically active substances and fine sand. The plasticity of the structure and fine grain size contribute to deep penetration into the thickness of the surface (up to 10 cm) with subsequent crystallization in it. By occupying the capillaries, the crystals prevent the flow of water through them.

An additional advantage of using materials of this type is that concrete is more resistant to low temperatures, prevents the growth of bacteria, and lacks toxic components.
Penetrating materials include Hydrotex, whose penetration depth is 10 cm, and Penetron, which can penetrate 20 cm inside the wall.

Important! These types of insulating materials are applied only to the wet concrete surface and are very effective in increasing the concrete's ability to withstand the effects of groundwater.

2. Painting materials
Materials of this type include bitumen, polymer, bitumen-polymer and polymer-cement mixture. They are applied in three or more layers, the thickness of which ranges from 2 to 6 mm. The inclusion of polymers, such as latex, in the mixture improves the properties of the materials. Nairite-containing mastic (BNM) is used for low temperatures, applied in a layer of 4 mm.

Containing epoxy resins materials have less ductility and may shrink. Epoxy-tar mastic is more durable, it practically does not shrink and does not combine with the ice that forms outside during severe frosts. Epoxy insulation containing furan has some toxicity even though it is applied in small layers.

The disadvantage of materials containing epoxy resins is considered to be excessive rigidity, but their advantages include the ability to be used for both external and internal waterproofing, ease of application and low cost.

3. Pasting materials
They have been the most popular for many years. These include roofing felt, roofing felt and other materials in rolls. They are laid on the floor on a layer of mortar before pouring the concrete screed. Except roll types polymeric materials in sheets can be used. Typically, materials are laid in three layers, between which polymer primers are used as an adhesive composition - for materials made from polymers, molten bitumen - respectively, for materials containing bitumen.

4. Impregnating materials
Applied to the floor of a wood cellar prepared for cladding ceramic tiles, laying linoleum. These are waterproofing mixtures that contain substances with astringent qualities - bitumen, polymer-based varnish.

5. Cast type waterproofing
This is one of the most reliable methods of waterproofing. A structure in the form of a fence is installed above the surface of the cellar. The resulting space is filled with mastics or other special solutions. After they harden, a continuous waterproofing surface is obtained. According to the temperature values ​​of the poured mass, cold, hot and asphalt-polymer types of cast waterproofing are divided.

When creating waterproofing, it is necessary to take into account that all its types, excluding roll, must have a continuous surface. Special attention should be given to seams and joints on the surface. In a cellar room that has a well-functioning ventilation system, waterproofing is more effective.

Waterproofing the cellar helps protect against high humidity not only the cellar itself, but the entire house. This increases its service life and allows you to create an optimal microclimate in it. Methods of waterproofing, type of material and method of its application and combination with other types are selected based on the characteristics of the structure and existing conditions.

Waterproofing vegetable pit

Quite often, unfortunately, the problems of waterproofing and hydraulic concrete are remembered only after the building or structure has already been constructed. For almost all structures made of concrete, or simply put, protecting everything built from concrete from water penetration is, to put it mildly, a hot topic. The task of waterproofing vegetable pits is very important, because rotten potatoes and spoiled preparations will probably delight you in winter.

Typical problems of vegetable storage:

• water enters the room through cracks in the wall and technological seams.
• cracks in the concrete bottom.
• There are areas with local destruction of concrete.
• water seeps through the thickness of the wall

Simple and effective way waterproofing your vegetable pit - using the KT throne material system.

The main advantages of KT Tron waterproofing:

• high quality waterproofing coating;
• simplicity and speed of coating application;
• Possibility of application on a damp surface;
• durability;

Waterproofing vegetable pit

Stage 1. Surface preparation
Remove loose concrete mechanically(using a jackhammer, hammer drill or machine high pressure(AED) type KARCHER).
Clean the concrete surface using a brush with metal bristles from dust, dirt, cement laitance, tile adhesive, paint and other materials that prevent the penetration of active agents. chemical components into concrete.
Perform configuration fines along the entire length of cracks, seams, joints, junctions and around the communications entry “ dovetail» depth 30 and outer width 20 mm. With severely damaged concrete, the size of the fine increases.
Clean the scratches with a brush with metal bristles, a high pressure brush.
If reinforcement is exposed, remove sufficient concrete behind the reinforcing bars until they are completely clear. Remove rust mechanically or chemically(to pure metal) and apply an anti-corrosion coating (mineral, epoxy or zinc) before using the material “KT Tron-3 (repair)” or “KT Tron-4 (quick repair)”

Stage 2. Waterproofing of structural elements

a) Elimination of active leaks:

b) Waterproofing seams, joints, cracks.
Moisten the groove thoroughly.
Prepare a solution of KT Tron-2 material.
Fill the hole tightly with it (with a hole 20 X 30 mm, material consumption 1.35 kg/m.p.)

The KT tron-2 material has a penetrating effect, so there is no need for a groove underneath it. pre-treatment penetrating compounds, which distinguishes the KT Tron line of materials from other brands.

Stage 3. Application of waterproofing coating

Waterproofing concrete with a penetrating compound:
Thoroughly moisten the concrete surface.
Prepare a solution of waterproofing material “KT Tron-1”, apply it in two layers with a synthetic fiber brush.
Apply the first layer to damp concrete with a brush, applying strokes in one direction (without smearing).
Before applying the second layer, moisten the surface. Apply the second layer on a fresh, but already set first layer. It is recommended to apply the layers in perpendicular directions.
Calculation of the material for two-layer application on a smooth surface is 0.8 kg/m2, on a rough surface – 1.0 kg/m2.

Stage 4. Surface care

Care must be taken to ensure that processed waterproofing materials of the KT Tron system, the surfaces remained wet for 3 days, cracking and peeling of the coating should not be observed, temperature regime.

To moisten treated surfaces when waterproofing vegetable pits, the following methods are usually used: water spraying, covering the concrete surface with plastic film.

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Waterproofing vegetable pit

Waterproofing a vegetable pit is a way to preserve the harvest during winter and spring without throwing away half of the vegetables as unusable. Substances that come into contact with any products must be environmentally friendly and have minimal impact on organic matter. Products under the brand name KT Tron are precisely such substances, and therefore waterproofing a vegetable pit with the help of these products is not only acceptable, but even necessary.
Water can penetrate into unprotected pits in different ways: rise from the ground through cracks in damaged areas concrete base storage facilities, flow through technological seams, ooze through the pores of the material itself.
KT throne systems, consisting of materials for several purposes, are capable of complex waterproofing of a vegetable pit.
Let us list the main advantages of this system: high-level coating quality and good adhesion parameters, the ability to apply products with maximum speed without the use of specific tools, the possibility of application to insufficiently dried surfaces (which means that work can be carried out in any weather), the speed of drying and hardening of the compositions, the durability of the finished coatings.

Waterproofing a vegetable pit is carried out in several stages, the number of which may vary depending on the complexity of the object, the requirements for the protective characteristics of the storage and the climatic standards of the region. The main stages can be listed as follows:
Stage 1. Preliminary preparation object and material: all necessary construction work(in case of repair of an object, damaged areas and loosened, thinned concrete are removed), surfaces are cleaned of mechanical impurities, dust, rust, etc. Metal parts of the structure are coated with appropriate anti-corrosion compounds.
Stage 2. Waterproofing individual elements of the pit structure: active leaks found are eliminated; seams, joints, cracks are filled with mixtures and grooves are moistened, which are later filled with a self-expanding mixture of KT tron-2 (it is not necessary to pre-treat the surface of the groove with penetrating solutions, since the specified mixture itself has the ability to penetrate into the small pores of the building material).
Stage 3. Application of the main waterproofing coating for the vegetable pit: the concrete surface is thoroughly moistened, after which the application of the KT tron-1 composition begins. It is applied without smearing in two layers, perpendicular to one another. Detailed instructions on surface treatment with this material and instructions on its consumption are attached to the purchased packages of the mixture.
Stage 4. Correct completion of the work on waterproofing the vegetable pit: the applied compositions of the KT Tron brand will last a long time and reliably, performing their functions 100%, if they are dried correctly: the treated surfaces must remain wet for three days. It is unacceptable to sharply reduce the temperature regime or leave untreated areas or areas with cracked or flaking coating.

Following all the instructions will ensure the creation of high-quality waterproofing for the vegetable pit, which will delight the owners with the reliable storage of any products.

The issue of preserving the vegetable harvest throughout winter period has always been relevant. One of the options for preserving food, in particular vegetables, is vegetable pits (cellars) equipped in the garage. Read the instructions on how to make a cellar in the garage.

Characteristics

Optimal conditions for storing food in a vegetable pit:

• the air temperature should be from two to five degrees Celsius;
• air humidity should be from 85% to 90%;
• the vegetable pit must always remain dark; lighting is used only when people are in the vegetable storage;
• Fresh air supply equipment is required.

Device

The layout of the inspection and vegetable pits in the garage begins with the consideration of the following issues:

• determination of the type of soil characteristic of a given area;
• the level of soil freezing and the level of groundwater;
• checking the presence of underground communications, which is very important if the garage is located within the city;
• then a project for a garage with a vegetable pit is prepared.

The project should include the following items:

• estimated dimensions (depth and width);
• carrying out waterproofing, if necessary, equipping a drainage system;
• arrangement of thermal insulation;
• floor arrangement;
• supply and exhaust ventilation equipment.

Photo

How to do it?

The process of constructing a vegetable pit in the garage:

• a pit of the dimensions specified by the design is dug;
• a trench is dug under the foundation in the pit, the bottom of the trench is covered layer by layer with crushed stone and sand, then the prepared trench is concreted;
• It is also recommended to fill the floor of the vegetable pit with a five-centimeter layer of concrete;
• the walls of the vegetable pit, as an option, can be laid in the floor with bricks;
• the ceiling can be made in the form of a vault using brickwork.

Also, the ceiling of the vegetable pit can be concreted, for this we lay boards at a suitable height, carry out waterproofing using roofing felt, install reinforced concrete screed. Read the guide on how to choose a garage roof.

In the process of arranging the ceiling, holes are left for the equipment of the manhole and ventilation system. Finished ceiling additionally insulated.

With the process of arranging the basement, inspection hole and the cellar (vegetable pit) in the garage can be found by watching the video.

Ventilation

How to dry it?

During the operation of the cellar in the garage, it is very likely, for one reason or another, that dampness will appear in the vegetable pit. In this case, it is necessary to resort to drying the garage basement and, in particular, the vegetable pit. There are several ways to dry a vegetable pit:

• light a fire in an old metal bucket placed in the center of the room (the fire is maintained until the humidity level decreases);
• install a pipe with an outlet to the street; a container with a candle is installed under the pipe to support natural draft (drying the vegetable pit may take several days);
• use of a heat gun.

You can familiarize yourself with the process of draining a vegetable pit in the garage by watching the video.

How to insulate?

The principle of insulating a vegetable pit in a garage is practically no different from insulating any other room. When choosing a thermal insulation material, it is necessary to focus on certain operational properties, necessary for insulation, used for insulating vegetable pits. Thermal insulation material must be moisture resistant and have high thermal insulation properties, environmentally friendly and do not emit chemically aggressive substances (since, naturally, they will be stored in a vegetable pit food products), have long term operation without loss of original performance qualities. Since vegetable pits, as a rule, do not have large sizes, the thickness of the thermal insulation material is also of no small importance. The best option The thermal insulation material for a vegetable pit, which meets all of the listed properties, is polyurethane foam. Polyurethane foam is a foamed substance that is applied to the surfaces of the floor, walls and ceiling of a vegetable pit by spraying. Polyurethane foam has excellent adhesion to all building materials and when sprayed, hardens, forms a monolithic sealed heat-insulating layer. The only drawback this method insulation of a vegetable pit lies in its high cost. Read. Most affordable thermal insulation material, foamed polystyrene foam is suitable for insulating vegetable pits. The process of insulating a vegetable pit consists of several stages:

• preparation of insulated surfaces (leveling and cleaning of dirt);
• waterproofing layer equipment;
• installation of sheathing (if used for sheathing wooden slats, then they must first be treated with an antiseptic composition to prevent mold growth);
• insulation is laid in the space between the laths;
• then you can fix it on the sheathing plastic panels or sheets of plywood.

Video

These are enough simple measures for arranging ventilation and thermal insulation of a vegetable pit in the garage will help ensure an optimal microclimate for storing vegetables over a long period of time.