To save space, shower cabins are installed in small bathrooms. They come in different configurations, depending on which they are called a shower corner, a cabin or a hydrobox. However, all manufacturers have one sin: poor instructions. It contains a list of parts and general instructions: place the pallet, secure the walls... and everything else in the same spirit. No details. Because of this, assembling a shower cabin turns into a do-it-yourself task. Different models there are many, it is impossible to describe them all, but we will describe and demonstrate common problems and ways to solve them.
Types and types
First of all, shower cabins differ in shape: corner and straight. In our country, corner ones are more common, because they are easier to fit into small rooms.
But there can also be corners different shapes. They are more common with a rounded front part - in the form of a sector of a circle, but there are also ones with a beveled and rectangular base.
Now about the packaging itself. On this basis, shower cabins are divided into closed and open. The open ones do not have a top panel or side walls. They are in closed ones. Open shower stalls are most often referred to as “shower corners” or nooks. Its configuration can also be different - with or without a pallet.
Some closed shower cabins have many additional functions - various types of jet massage, shower - regular, tropical, etc., a built-in sauna or steam generator for hammam. Such multifunctional devices are correctly called “hydromassage cabins”, or simply hydroboxes.
It is clear that the more complex the “filling”, the more labor-intensive the assembly will be. But hydromassage cabins are assembled at the very beginning in the same way as a shower corner with a tray. If you understand how to assemble the basics, installing the walls and roof will be easier. The main thing, as usual, is the foundation, and the assembly of a shower cabin of any complexity begins with the installation of a shower tray and door guides.
How to assemble a shower stall - corner
Most often, it is a corner with a pallet that is purchased. Without a tray, you have to deal with the floor and drain for a long time. It’s easier to install a ready-made trough. Therefore, first of all, we will describe the installation procedure for such a shower stall. Read how to make a shower tray from tiles.
Let’s say right away that models with a tray require a headroom of at least 15 cm: at the bottom there is a siphon and water drainage hoses. So to install a cabin 215 cm high, the ceiling height must be at least 230 cm, and it will be difficult to work. If your ceilings are low, you will have to install a booth without a tray - just the walls, and make the drain in the floor.
Pallet installation
The tray in modern shower cabins is made of plastic. It is reinforced with several layers of fiberglass, which increases its strength, but it is still impossible to stand on it normally without support. The set comes with several metal pipes square section, which are assembled into a structure that supports the bottom.
But not everyone decides to install a shower stall on several pieces of iron. Some people prefer to make the base from brick or wooden beams.
Assembly of a shower cabin on a metal frame
On some models, the first step is to attach a decorative protective cover to the pallet. It is simply inserted into the groove and screwed with metal plates. Then the installation process continues. What's wrong with this method? How to change or repair a drain if necessary? The casing cannot be removed - it is attached from the inside. The only way is to first make the door yourself, and then put the modified panel in place.
The procedure for assembling the shower tray is as follows:
- The studs are screwed into the existing sockets. Some designs have fewer nests than support beams. Then the kit includes short studs. They are simply inserted and held on by bolts, redistributing part of the load.
- On installed studs nuts are screwed in, which will lock the metal support frame, preventing it from resting on the pallet.
- A frame is put on the studs with nuts, and holes are drilled in it for this purpose.
- More nuts are screwed onto the protruding ends of the studs, only now they are on the other side of the pipe.
- There are holes in the supporting structure; we tighten the bolts that are included in the kit. In theory, they should fall into the corresponding holes on the pallet. There is reinforcement under these holes, otherwise the screw will simply pierce the plastic.
- After checking how level the frame is and adjusting if necessary, tighten all the double bolts on the studs. The result will be a fairly rigid fixation (everything was wobbly before).
- Let's start assembling the legs.
- Turn the pallet over. If all the legs are level and the floor is level, the tray should be level and tight.
The assembly of the shower corner is already half done. All that remains is to assemble the doors.
Assembling a pallet based on brick or foam blocks
Here everything is incomparably simpler, although it largely depends on the shape of the pallet. Most often, the base is made of brick or foam blocks. It is more convenient to work with high-density foam blocks. They have sufficient bearing capacity to withstand the required weight, but at the same time they are easy to cut with a saw, they are easy to give the required shape.
First, the entire structure is folded dry, without mortar or glue for foam blocks. Just remember that the solution/glue will lift the structure a little. And this is the second advantage of foam blocks: for their installation, a layer of glue of a couple of millimeters is enough, and for bricks at least 6-8 mm is required.
You can first try on how the shower tray will look like using glue or mortar: in case you didn’t put enough somewhere. To do this, spread the solution, more or less level it with a trowel, cover it with film, and place a tray on the film. By removing it, you will absolutely see whether there is enough glue everywhere.
After adding the solution if necessary, we put the tray in place. Leveling it is a matter of technique: we take a building level, and, focusing on its readings, tap in different places. Pay attention! You can install the shower tray on the film without removing it from the solution. In this option, dismantling without destruction is possible.
When laying down the brick base, do not forget that you need space to install the drain and pipes from it. It is also necessary to provide for the possibility of replacing the siphon. To do this, a window is made on one side to provide access to the necessary parts. It can then be closed with a decorative door or lid.
Before final installation of the pan, the drain is connected. For those who have ever installed a sink or bathtub, this is not a problem. More details about this in next video. One point: when installing the siphon, do not forget to coat the drain hole with sealant. Of course, there is an elastic band there, but it will be more reliable with sealant.
Installing door guides
Next, the assembly of the shower cabin continues with the installation of door guides. Even if the cabin does not have side panels, you first need to assemble the guide frame for the doors, install it on the pallet, and then mark the installation locations for the fasteners. Assembling the frame means fastening it together side racks and two rounded guides. To add rigidity to the structure, fixed glass sides can be installed.
Why can't you immediately attach door posts to the wall? Because the walls in the bathroom are rarely perfectly straight. By attaching the racks this way, you will get skewed doors that will close/open poorly. To understand the difference, you can mark it strictly vertically, setting the side guides vertically as expected. Then collect load-bearing frame, put it in place and look at any deviations. In 99% of cases they are present, and significant ones at that.
There can be no discrepancies when assembling the shower cabin frame. There are two arcs, there are two posts. Align the grooves and holes, tighten with screws. Then install the glass sides. They are fixed with clamps. After this, do not forget to install the rollers for the shower stall. They may have different designs, but, most often, to install them you need to remove the side stoppers from the guides, drive two rollers into the profile on both sides, and put the stoppers in place.
In some models you have to not only install the rollers, but also hang the glass, otherwise you won’t be able to move it. But then it’s better to work together. It's difficult for one.
Having placed the assembled frame on the pallet and checked whether it is positioned correctly, mark the location of the fasteners with a marker. Having removed the cabin, drill holes and install dowels.
Coat the junction of the frame with the walls with sealant. You need to apply the strip generously - it’s better to wipe off the excess later. Then put the guides in place and screw them on. The remaining cracks are re-filled with sealant. Installation shower corner almost finished: all that remains is to hang the doors and install the seals.
Assembling a shower cabin: hanging the doors
If the doors have not been installed, they are hung. They start from the top. Most models have holes in the door leaf: top and bottom. These are the places where the rollers are attached. Some shower stalls have two holes, some have four. Their number depends on the design of the rollers.
Take a screw and put a plastic spacer (from the kit) on it. After inserting the screw into the hole, put on the second gasket. Next: there is a thread inside the roller, you need to get a screw into it, then support the roller from the outside with your fingers and screw the screw inside. This acrobatic element is repeated with all rollers. There is no need to tighten them until all the screws are installed. Just tighten it so that the door holds and doesn’t fall.
After the doors are hung, tighten all fasteners. There is one last thing left: installing seals on the doors. They simply snap into place (press with your finger) on the side edges of the two joining halves of the door. They are attached in the same way on the other side - on racks near the walls.
For details on hanging shower doors in one of the models, see the video.
Features of installation of a hydrobox shower cabin
In closed shower stalls and hydroboxes, after installing the tray, it is necessary to assemble a panel covering the wall. It has mounting holes into which all the “gadgets” are pre-installed - nozzles, holders, soap dishes, seats, speakers, lamps, etc. The shape and size of the bottom is different for everyone, so it’s hard to make a mistake. It is advisable to coat all “mounting holes” with sealant: there will be less dripping later.
Particular attention should be paid to the installation of injectors. In addition to installing the sprayers themselves, they must be connected to each other with pieces of hose. It is put on the injector nozzles and tightened with clamps. All this is assembled according to the diagram provided in the instructions. Special attention Make sure that the nozzle tips are intact and the clamps are well tightened. It wouldn’t be a bad idea to coat each seat with sealant (both under the nozzle and under the hoses).
The wall with connected accessories is placed in a special groove. The connection point is also pre-coated with sealant. Connects cold hot water, you can check the functionality of the system.
After installing the walls, the lid is assembled. There is usually a rain shower there, maybe a lamp. When installing them, you can also use a sealant - you never know where the water will get in... A hose is put on the shower pipe, which is tightened with clamps. Conductors are connected to the lamp terminals, the connection point is carefully insulated, using several heat-shrinkable tubes put on in series.
The assembled cover is installed on the wall. The joint is again lubricated with sealant. While the sealant has not hardened, the assembled door frame is installed. When doors are installed depends on the model. In some cases they need to be hung before installation, in others - after. All joints are sealed.
The assembly of the hydrobox shower cabin is shown in sufficient detail in this video. There are no comments, but the sequence of actions is clear.
We hope it’s clear how to assemble a shower stall. There are a lot of models and modifications, but we tried to describe the main problem areas. If you missed something, write in the comments, we will add to the article))
The shower cabin has become almost a standard in modern housing, replacing the usual bath with shower. It in no way replaces a bath or bath, but is rather an addition to them. And although this is a high-tech device, assembling shower cabins with your own hands is not particularly difficult.
Shower cabin assembly photo
Each such device is usually accompanied by a shower cabin assembly diagram that explains the installation process of a specific model. But there is a general approach. Let's look at the assembly process step by step.
Necessary tools and materials for assembling a shower
Assembling a shower cabin begins with preparing tools and additional materials.
To carry out the work, you need to prepare the following tools:
- a set of keys or an adjustable wrench;
- flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
- building level;
- drill with a set of drills;
- level;
- sealant gun.
Additional material required for booth installation:
- transparent silicone sealant;
- waterproofing thread or FUM tape;
- tap for connecting the cabin to cold water supply;
- tap for connecting the cabin to hot water supply.
In addition, many shower stalls are equipped electric lighting, ventilation, wired communications etc. Connecting these devices will require appropriate equipment and material.
Before starting assembly, you must check the presence of all components of the shower cabin with assembly instructions.
Shower stall set
Depending on the specific design, the equipment may vary.
Includes the following basic parts:
- Pallet . It represents a bathtub onto which the rest of the fittings are attached, usually a solid structure. The apron can be separate from the pallet;
- Rear panel . Most often it contains: a control panel, taps, hose fasteners for hand showers, etc.;
- Vertical racks . Side panels, additional equipment can also be located on them;
- Door guides and doors ;
- Top cover . May have overhead shower, built-in lighting, ventilation, etc.
The contents are checked upon purchase in the store. Before assembly, you will need to check again, unpack and arrange the components.
Step-by-step assembly of a shower cabin - instructions
A wonderful Russian proverb says: It's better to see once than to hear a hundred times. For a better understanding, we suggest watching a video of the assembly of shower cabins.
We will not consider the choice and placement of a shower stall in the room.
You just have to pay attention: the dimensions of the shower cabin components are voluminous and before purchasing you will need to make sure that they can be carried through the existing openings. Of course, the dimensions of the assembled cabin itself must fit into the space allocated for it.
Pay attention to the distance between the roof of the selected cabin model and the ceiling: the recommended minimum is 25-30 cm.
Preparatory stage of shower assembly
Part preparatory stage can already be considered checking the equipment, preparing necessary tools and materials.
One clarification needs to be made: When preparing tools, pay attention to the need to use special tools. Often, for commercial purposes, a manufacturer develops an original bolt head (rose, snowflake, etc.) so that the appropriate keys are purchased for assembly.
In our opinion, this is not an entirely correct marketing ploy, but it does happen. Well-known manufacturers have not encountered anything like this. For example, when assembling shower cabins serena, such cases were not noted, similarly when assembling ika shower cabins. It’s difficult to say how other manufacturers are doing with this.
Immediately before installation:
- Check the readiness of the installation site. There must be a level floor; tolerances for the slope of the floor must be given in the instructions for assembling the shower cabin. The floor covering must have certain waterproofing properties. Check the sewer drain here: it should be at least 5° below the drain hole;
- Check that the hoses are long enough to connect to the hot and cold water supply. If insufficient: replace the hoses, increase them with extension hoses, or bring the water supply pipes closer. Pay attention to the quality of the water supply hoses included in the kit. Cheap cabins are often equipped with poor quality hoses;
- Check that the sewer hose is long enough. If insufficient: replace, extend with additional hoses or bring closer drain pipe. Pay attention to the quality of the siphon. Cheap cabins may be equipped with a low-quality siphon. In this case, it is recommended to change it immediately;
- Check that the power cable to the outlet is long enough, check the outlet. When placing the socket in close proximity to the shower stall, the socket must be waterproof;
- Preparation of the necessary tools;
- Checking the availability of necessary additional materials;
- Checking the contents, unpacking.
Comment: Shower cabins should be assembled in the same room where they will be located. Otherwise, it will be necessary to control the passage of the finished booth into the doorway.
Video of assembly and installation of a shower cabin
The assembly of the shower cabin in the video gives a clear idea of the installation process. As you can see from the presented material, assembling a shower cabin with your own hands is not difficult. All you need is attentiveness, patience and our instructions with recommendations.
Shower tray assembly
Trays for shower stalls are produced:
- cast iron;
- metal;
- plastic.
Metal and plastic pallets have a frame for additional structural reinforcement. You can assemble the pallet anywhere, overall dimensions when assembled, they do not expand, and it is more convenient to assemble in a spacious room, rather than in a cramped bathroom.
Different models may differ in design. Therefore, when installing parts of the shower cabin, pay attention to the assembly diagram.
General approach to pallet assembly:
- Turn the tray upside down. First remove the facing apron;
- Collect metal frame(if available) and attach according to the instructions. There are no gaps between the bottom and the frame;
- Install the legs in seats. The design of the legs has nuts that regulate the height of the legs. They are necessary for horizontal leveling and preventing the shower stall from swinging;
- Install the siphon (see below);
Siphon installation
Siphon- one of problem areas in the shower stall.
Firstly, this node is closed, there is no direct access to it and it is not immediately possible to detect problems arising from its malfunction. A malfunction of the siphon can lead to leakage, which can result in a large amount of water on the floor, followed by flooding of the lower floors, etc.
In addition, this unit is difficult to access for replacement; sometimes you have to significantly disassemble the shower cabin in order to replace the siphon.
Secondly, the manufacturer often skimps on quality, especially when it comes to cheap booths. The assembly of the serena shower cabin was completed with high-quality siphons, the same applies to the assembly of the ika shower cabin. We cannot vouch for other companies.
Therefore, before installing the siphon, we strongly recommend that you pay attention to its quality. If in doubt, it is better to seek advice or buy a known high-quality siphon.
When purchasing a new siphon, you need to make sure that it fits the model of shower cabin being assembled: the size of the drain hole, the distance between the bottom and the floor.
When installing a siphon, it is important to ensure perfect sealing.
Siphon installation steps:
- Processing landing part siphon and gasket with silicone and install in the drain hole;
- Install the bottom gasket and tighten the nut;
- We screw on the lower part of the siphon, having previously lubricated both parts of the thread with silicone sealant.
After installation, it is recommended to wait for the technological time for the sealant to set and check the connection for leaks. To do this, just pour a bucket of water into the pan, naturally, first direct the drain into the sewer or some container.
Installing the shower tray on site
After installing the pallet in place, it is necessary to carry out adjustment using building level. The adjusting nuts on the legs allow you to correct minor tilts and uneven floors.
For shower cabins, slight tilts are acceptable. It is important to ensure an angle of inclination towards the drain hole so that the water does not stagnate.
Rocking of the shower cabin is unacceptable. This defect will need to be eliminated by adjusting the legs. It is undesirable to use additional methods not provided for by the technology: pads, extensions, welding, etc.
Assembly and installation of walls
The installation of walls depends on the specific design.
General approach to wall installation:
- Before installation, each panel or part with a through hole is treated with silicone sealant;
- Part attachments convenient to mount before installing the panel on the pallet: faucets, fasteners for shower heads, etc.;
- After assembly, the joints are again treated with silicone sealant;
- The panels are usually fixed using guides. Before attaching the panels, you will need to install the guides. The panels themselves are fastened with self-tapping screws;
- Install the back and one side panel, then install the second side (if available);
- Install uninstalled accessories: mirrors, holders, handles, etc.
Roof installation
General approach to roof installation:
- Install all the elements: watering can, lighting, speakers, ventilation, etc.;
- It is recommended to treat with silicone sealant before installation. A small amount of water directly enters the roof; the sealing serves as a vapor barrier and sound insulation;
- Reinstall the roof. Usually fastened with self-tapping screws. If there is insufficiency, it can be strengthened with additional ones.
Doors
General approach:
- We fix on the doors: rollers, seals, handles;
- We hang the doors and adjust them so that the doors fit tightly without gaps and the side gaps are closed with seals.
Possible inconsistencies may be due to inaccurate installation of the pallet. Check the horizontal position using a building level and correct the tilt if necessary.
Connecting the shower stall to the electrical network
Connecting to the power supply involves installing a moisture-resistant socket, or extending the electrical cable outside the room. In the case of a socket, it should be installed in a place where it will not be exposed to splashing water.
Leak test
High performance indicators have made shower cabins in demand not only for small bathrooms; today they are also installed in prestigious houses or apartments as an alternative to bathtubs. Shower trays are considered one of the main elements of the cabin; the correct installation of them affects the convenience and duration of use. The pallet installation algorithm depends on its design features and material of manufacture.
Before purchasing a specific pallet, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the advantages and disadvantages various options. What types of pallets are there?
Depending on the material of manufacture, linear dimensions and geometric shapes the cost of pallets varies quite widely. These characteristics also influence the installation methods of pallets. Professionals conditionally classify products into the following categories.
| Classification indicator | Brief characteristics and features |
|---|---|
| Can be made from malleable cast iron, sheet steel, ceramics and plastic. Metal ones are distinguished by increased strength indicators, inner surface covered with durable enamel. Cast iron is much more expensive than steel. Disadvantage: cast iron pan long time remains cold, which negatively affects the comfort of water procedures. Ceramic ones are not widely used; in terms of performance and price they occupy an average position. Plastic ones are currently the most commonly used. They meet all parameters modern requirements, have a large number of different modifications. The price is affordable for the vast majority of users. |
|
| Can be mounted in wall corners or frontally. Depending on the installation location, they differ in size and methods of water drainage. | |
| The hole can be located in the center or in one of the corners of the pallet. There is no particular difference from an installation point of view, but when choosing, you should take into account the layout of existing utility networks in the bathroom. | |
| The height of the sides ranges from 6–10 cm for superflat, 10–18 cm for flat and 25–35 cm for deep trays. | |
| Square, rectangle or sector. Sectoral ones are installed only in the corner of the room, the rest universal purpose, can be mounted anywhere. |
shower tray
It is better to purchase pallets complete with shower stalls. If for some reason this option is not suitable for you, then separate installation of the pallet is also possible, and you will have to make the protective fences yourself. When choosing a specific model, it is recommended to pay attention to the following features.
- Noisy. The sound of falling water steel pallets may cause discomfort to others. Especially if you take a shower early in the morning, and the interior partitions do not have high noise absorption rates.
The loudest ones are made from sheet steel, acrylic ones are characterized by less noise, all the others do not emit unpleasant sounds. When choosing, take into account the number and daily routine of everyone living in the apartment, the features of the room, and the location of the bathroom in relation to other rooms.
- Strength. Cast iron pallets are the strongest, steel comes in second place, and ceramic and plastic have almost the same performance. If you have children, then it is better to choose durable models; if everyone living is an adult, then there are no restrictions on this parameter. The only note is that for plastic ones you need to provide sufficiently strong stops for maximum surface– eliminates the possibility of deformation under heavy weight.
- When choosing an installation location, pay attention to the features of existing water drainage pipes and the architectural characteristics of the room.
- Price. The advice is one and universal - the cost should correspond to financial capabilities. But keep in mind that high price does not guarantee the same high quality. For example, the most expensive pallets are made from natural stone. But according to actual operational characteristics they come in last place. In this regard, we are not even considering this option.
- Design. Choose a tray that fits seamlessly into the existing bathroom interior. As for color, white is considered not only traditional, but also the most universal.
Video - Which tray to choose for your shower
Once a decision has been made on a specific type, installation can begin. Installation depends on the design features of the pallet; this should be taken into account when purchasing and soberly assess your capabilities and skills. Choose pallets that you can easily install. We will look at three examples of pallet installation; the rest do not make any fundamental difference.
Step-by-step instructions for installing a pallet on foam concrete
Construction and installation work is among the simplest in terms of complexity, but increased care is required when connecting drains. For example, let's take a universal square plastic pallet.
Step 1. Decide on a specific installation location. We have already mentioned that you should pay attention to the existing layout of utility networks. The outlet of the drain pipeline must be located under the plane of the pan. Making the sewer visible is allowed only in extreme cases. And then in the future it is recommended to take a set of measures to hide the pipelines.
Step 2. Purchase materials and prepare tools. In addition to the pan itself, you will need a siphon, a corrugated drain hose, a tape measure, a level, silicone sealant, foam concrete, tile adhesive, a caulk gun, a saw, a trowel, a tray and a pencil or marker.
Step 3. Preparing for installation. The floor must be clean and level, the outlet of the pipe for draining water is under the plane of the pan. Place the pallet in the intended location and trace the outer contours with a pencil.
Step 4. If your pallet model does not have factory legs, then you need to place it on four stands cut out of foam concrete at all angles. The height of the stands is within 10 cm.
Step 5. Prepare the tile lei according to the instructions. Make sure there are no dry lumps in the mixture.
Step 6. Apply glue to the back of the four stands, set them in place, and place the tray on top.
Using a level, level its position, check all four directions, they must be strictly horizontal. To do this, tilt the blocks in the desired direction with gentle blows of a construction hammer or the handle of a trowel.
Step 7 Wait a bit for the glue to harden. These four corner blocks will be the height guides for the foundation for the pallet. From the same foam blocks, use a hacksaw to cut out pieces for arranging the entire structure. As a result, you should end up with a square that fits the entire perimeter of the pallet.
Practical recommendation. Do the laying in the usual way, applying glue from the bottom and sides of the blocks. Constantly check the position of each element with a level and correct them if any deviations are detected. Further work You can continue only after a day.
While the foundation is maturing, begin installing the shower and faucet. Place them at a comfortable height, making sure that in places threaded connections there were no leaks.
Step 8 Place the tray on the foam blocks and mark the location of the drain hole on the floor.
Take care of the drain. If necessary, tighten the drain inlet sewer pipe to the drain hole. In our case, no special precision is needed; the final connection is made with a flexible corrugated hose.
Step 9 Assemble and reinstall the siphon. Very important work. Keep in mind that dismantling a plastic pallet on the foundation without damaging it is impossible. Such manipulations can be done with pallets on legs, but we will talk about their features below.
Make every effort to completely eliminate the risk of drain leakage. What should be done for this?
- Read the instructions for assembling the siphon, check technical condition all its elements. Pay special attention to the condition rubber gaskets and seals.
- During assembly, do not use excessive force; install the rubber seals in the correct position. To facilitate the entry of plastic pipes into the seals, lubricate them with special lubricants, soap or ordinary water. Never try to connect dryly or with too much force. The fact is that the thin edges of rubber seals are very easily damaged, and as a result, a leak will definitely appear. It is impossible to notice it under the pallet in time, to eliminate problems that have arisen due to prolonged exposure to water building structures It will require not only a lot of time and effort, but also financial resources.
Step 10 Spread the upper perimeter of the block stand with glue; the solution is about a centimeter thick.
Place the pan in place, screw on the siphon, connect the flexible hose to the inlet of the drain pipe.
Step 11 Using a level, level the tray horizontally.
Take your time, lower the edges very carefully. If you make a mistake and one edge of the pan is tilted too much, then to eliminate the problem you will have to disconnect the siphon, remove the pan and start all installation operations over again.
Step 12 Seal the joints where the pallet meets the walls. Be sure to degrease the surfaces and clean them of dirt and dust. There is a wide variety of sealants, but we recommend that you use special plumbing silicone ones. They have a slight elasticity, which compensates for the vibration of the edges of the tray while taking a shower. In addition, it contains antiseptics that prevent the proliferation of microflora and pathogenic bacteria.
Notice how unsightly shower stalls look with black mold stripes around the perimeter of the tray. This is a consequence of violating the rules for installing pallets. Flaw silicone sealants– after a few months it is necessary to inspect the tightness of the seam. The fact is that the material begins to peel off in some places.
The application of sealant is done using a special gun. Cut the tip of the tube at a 45° angle and gently push the material into the slot. Do not leave gaps; irregularities can be removed with your finger or any available object of appropriate width and length can be adjusted. To prevent silicone from sticking to it, wet the item in soapy water.
Step 13 Proceed to cover the visible surfaces of the block foundation of the pallet with ceramic tiles. If the tile had to be cut, then it is better to place the cut at the bottom, and to improve the design characteristics, use special plastic or aluminum corners. They are sold in the store along with tiles.
At this point, the work of installing the pallet on the foundation is completed; final installation can be done only after the glue has completely hardened. This will take at least two days.
Installing a shower tray with legs
This pallet is installed much faster; it often comes with a special plastic screen, which allows installation without masonry work. If the screen is not included in the kit, then at the final stage the perimeter of the pallet must be trimmed with blocks or bricks of appropriate parameters and covered with ceramic tiles. Before starting work, check that all pallet installation elements are present and carefully read the manufacturer’s instructions.
Step 1. Lean the tray against a wall or place it on your workbench. Find the places where the legs are fixed; they have factory markings or are thicker due to molded fastening inserts.
Step 2. Screw the legs. Pre-adjust their height using a tape measure. Exact height adjustment must be done on the floor.
Important. Please note that each leg has a lock nut to secure the element in the selected position. Make sure that all the locknuts are in place, otherwise you will have to remove the legs again to install the nuts.
Step 3. Place the pan in the desired location and decide on the method of connecting the water drainage. Depending on the location of the inlet pipe of the sewer pipe, additional connections will have to be made to connect the siphon. The siphon should be sold together with the tray; if not, buy it separately. At the same time, make sure that the dimensions of the equipment allow it to be installed under a pallet. If you don’t have enough personal experience, consult a store sales consultant.
Step 4. Assemble the siphon, pay great attention to the quality of all connections, do not allow leaks. Remember that eliminating them will always take much longer than a high-quality assembly. Not to mention the financial side of the issue and possible negative consequences.
Step 5. Place the tray back in place and use a level to set it to a horizontal position. Control all sides and do not allow them to slope in any direction. After adjustment, be sure to tighten the locknuts.
Step 6. If the kit includes metal profiles to support the side surfaces against the wall, install them. Mark a specific location and use a level to check the horizontal position. The metal profiles are fixed to the wall with dowels; drill holes for them in the right places.
Important. If the walls are already finished with ceramic tiles, then all measures should be taken to prevent them from cracking during drilling.
How to avoid unpleasant situations?
- Never drill a hole where tiles meet. When installing metal profiles, it is always possible to move them slightly to one side or another and thus choose a safe place for drilling holes. However, such manipulations will in no way affect the fixation strength of the pallet.
- Always work only with serviceable tools and sharp drills. Do not apply much force while drilling.
- It is strictly forbidden to use a drill in hammer drill mode; ceramic tiles do not tolerate shock loads. The hammer is turned on only after the thickness of the tile has been passed.
Step 7 Connect the drain.
Never assemble rubber seals with great force; lubricate them with mastics or at least moisten them with ordinary water. It is very easy to damage the seals, but they cannot be repaired; they need to be completely replaced. A problem may arise when searching for an identical replacement. Especially often such troubles arise during the search for spare parts for imported pallets. It is not recommended to use silicone as a sealant when assembling the water drain; it will definitely peel off after a certain amount of time and leak.
Installing the pallet on factory plastic stands
Some manufacturers complete pallets with stand blanks made of durable extruded polystyrene foam. Such structures are very low in height and require a different installation algorithm.
Step 1. Unpack the pallet and remove the stand blanks.
Step 2. Try on their length around the perimeter of the pallet, measure the required parameters. To make breaking off easier, polystyrene foam boards have vertical slots; it is enough to bend the material a little in this place and the extra piece will break off.
Step 3. Turn over the assembled plastic stand, place it on a pallet and mark the locations of the stiffeners. Here you need to cut recesses according to the height and width of the ribs. At the same time, make a hole for the drain pipe.
Screwing in the legs
Step 5. Assemble and attach the siphon to the drain. It should be located exactly in the center of the pallet. Try to make adjustments in such a way that the gap between the floor and the stand is minimal. If the floor is tilted towards the wall, you will have to remove the stand several times, unscrew/twist the legs and re-check the horizontal position.
The master traces the frame with a marker
Step 7 Clean the surfaces from dust, degrease, and moisten with water.
Apply a little in the center of the drawn outline. polyurethane foam. Also apply foam to the top surface of the stand.
Step 8 Carefully replace the stand and the tray on it, and check the location of the siphon again. It must be located exactly under the drain hole, otherwise problems will arise when fixing it to the pan. Screw onto the drain mesh. At the same time, she presses the siphon against the pan.
Installing a pallet on a frame
Step 9 Press the tray with great force and leave it in this position until the foam hardens. In order to eliminate the possibility of the tray being lifted by foam, it is recommended to press it inside with heavy objects.
Step 10 Once the foam has firmly adhered the tray to the floor, begin finishing the perimeter of the base with ceramic tiles. On the second day, you can begin sealing the joints. The algorithm for sealing work is no different from the options described above.
Practical advice. Before installing the pallet, estimate its approximate height. Available in stores today large selection tiles various sizes, there is a chance that you will be able to find the right one. For a precise fit, use the feet. Due to such manipulations, it will be possible to avoid cutting the tiles, and this not only speeds up the process of laying them, but also greatly improves the appearance of the bathroom.
If you do not plan to buy an assembled shower cabin, then draw a diagram of the mounting locations of the brackets on which the protective cover will be hung. polyethylene film. This is a very economical solution, but this option for arranging a shower room has more disadvantages than advantages.
Video - Rules for installing a pallet
A shower stall built with your own hands will not only make your stay more comfortable, but will also save you money. A homemade box will eliminate the cost of hiring third-party and not always conscientious workers. The moral satisfaction received from the results of one’s work is also important. Isn't it true?
We will tell you how to build a shower cabin in a private house with your own hands, and we will help you choose the optimal plumbing fixture. We’ll show you how to develop a project and bring the idea of building a hygienic homemade product to life.
The article we presented describes the process of constructing and arranging a shower step by step. The technology for installing the cabin and connecting it to the sewer largely depends on the selected modification of the pallet.
Before proceeding directly to the description of the assembly process, we will briefly consider the main types of shower stalls available for sale and the criteria for their selection.
Variety of models: which is better to choose
Shower corner is simple design from a pallet and curtains. Instead of walls, which are typical for a full-fledged shower stall, the walls of the room are used. The shower corner has no ceiling. Its main advantages are low cost and compactness.
A shower corner is one of the simplest, most convenient and cheapest models of shower stalls, it takes up minimal space and is suitable for self-installation
More sophisticated models have a roof and walls. Expensive multifunctional units have rich technical equipment: Turkish bath or Charcot shower, flavored steam mode, different types of hydromassage, additional features, various backlights.
An expensive model of a shower stall with a hydromassage function, lighting and a deep tray. Requires not only sufficient space for installation, but also the necessary pressure in the water supply
Control of such booths is carried out in a complex manner. electronic system. Before purchasing an expensive cabin equipped with a hydromassage function, you must first find out the level of water pressure in the pipes.
Combined shower cabins are a kind of compromise for those who like to take a bath with hydromassage and have a full-fledged shower cabin at home. Combined models are distinguished by the original and stylish design– on the market they are often positioned as home SPA centers.
It is the pallet of the product that places increased demands on. A high-quality pallet must withstand heavy loads, and at the maximum permissible weight of the user, it must not crack, bend or deform.
Shower trays are made from different materials.
The most popular models:
- earthenware;
- from artificial stone;
- enameled;
- acrylic.
Faience. Everyone famous material, used in the manufacture of toilets. The earthenware tray is completely hygienic, easy to clean and can withstand a lot of weight.
The disadvantage of earthenware is the strong “causticity” of the material: the surface of the tray can be damaged even from falling, for example, a glass cup
Artificial stone- reliable and durable material, beautiful and hygienic, but expensive.
Enameled pallets for shower stalls are cheap and durable. The only drawback that should be noted is the fragility of the enamel. However, the enamel coating can be easily restored or replaced with acrylic. An additional disadvantage is the roar of falling water on the metal surface of the pan.
Acrylic pallets are the most popular. Acrylic surface does not absorb dirt at all, warms up instantly, and does not darken over time.
Scratches on acrylic are completely invisible - this is an important point, since pallets are often scratched when a shower cabin is assembled with your own hands, especially for the first time
Flaw acrylic pallets– inconvenient installation, since the installation of a special frame is required. As such it is used aluminum construction with adjusting screws, with which you can select the desired height pallet
Comparative review different types shower trays are presented in .
What types of curtains are there?
The second most important element is the cabin curtains, which can be hinged or sliding. Hinged doors require more space. They are single-leaf and double-leaf.
As for sliding curtains, they have from two to six flaps, which are held in place by a rubber magnetic tape. The curtains move on rollers hidden inside the shower frame. High-quality curtains should open and close almost silently.
Corner shower stall with sliding doors. In addition to models with transparent plastic (glass), there are options with frosted curtains
Shower curtains are made of polystyrene or high-quality tempered glass. Products made from polystyrene are quite cheap and light in weight, but they quickly lose their transparency and stains remain on them.
Glass curtains are expensive, high-quality products.
Hinged doors made of tempered frosted glass. In their production, specially processed safety glass is used, which is stronger than even automobile glass.
Water and dirt are very easily washed off from the surface of the glass - the material does not absorb anything and does not fade over the years. You can also buy a booth with curtains made of classic transparent, tinted, colored and rough glass.
Shower project development
Despite the apparent technical complexity, independent construction of a shower stall is, in fact, a completely feasible procedure for the average person, especially for a hard-working owner.
Just as the construction of any capital structure begins with the development of a project, so before starting work on equipping a shower in a private house with your own hands, you need to think about it.
It is advisable to outline on paper the main plans and diagrams, for example:
- plan for placing a shower stall in a designated room;
- connection diagrams to power supply, water supply and sewerage networks;
- equipment order shower room ventilation system.
The preparation of the room for the shower and the installation of the cabin itself is carried out in several stages.
If the size of the bathroom does not allow you to install a full bath, then you should think about purchasing modern equipment for the shower. And assembling a shower cabin with your own hands will allow you to save on the cost of the entire bathroom remodel when.
Since it is quite difficult to assemble a shower cabin yourself, and even in a limited space, we will carry out all the work in several stages, including additional assembly and final adjustment. This will allow you to get by with just a couple of hands, while specialists always work together for speed of assembly.
Construction stores today offer many models of showers that are installed on stands, giving only a general idea of appearance and functionality. By the way, shower cabins - excellent solution For .
Most of them have instructions for assembling a shower cabin, which contains only a few schematic drawings, which is not enough for assembly.
In practice, the installation of a purchased shower stall in your own room primarily depends on the method of its installation:
- corner shower;
- rectangular shower stall;
and also from the design:
- open type(pallet and front side only);
- closed type (with a roof and a rear wall).
Depending on the room and the dimensions of the cabin, you can choose one or another type of design and installation.
It is important to understand that installing a siphon and a load-bearing frame in cramped conditions, so we do not forget about the need for inspection maintenance of plumbing equipment in the future.
The location of communications is also important: water supply and sewerage, to which the entire system will be connected.
You also need to take into account the preferences of the residents, for example, whether the shower stall is located on the left or right side from the front door.
Being in the middle of a spacious sales floor, it is very difficult to understand how organically this or that model of shower stall will fit into the bathroom.
Therefore, write down the dimensions of the pallet and at home cut out a stencil from cardboard that will help you navigate the location.
Having decided on the location, you need to determine the method of securing the elements of the shower stall, which greatly depends on the material.
For models on sale, the walls and bottom of the pallets are either reinforced with fiberglass or made of bare plastic.
Therefore, before assembling the shower cabin with your own hands, you need to prepare solid foundation For constituent elements, able to withstand the weight of water and the weight of a person.
Plastic pallets of cheap booths often bend under the weight of water and a person washing, so it would be useful to build a power podium, even if this is not mentioned in the simple instructions.
In addition, you need to select optimal height pan to ensure water drainage when connected to the sewer system.
To do this, arm yourself with a level, open the package with the pallet, place it in a spacious room (for example, the kitchen) and begin work.
We divide the work into 2 stages: first we just attach the fasteners, then we bring the pallet into the bathroom, where we try everything on at the installation site.
When checking the possibility of connecting the drain hole to the sewer tee, partial assembly of the shower stall is necessary - the instructions should be nearby.
- We set the drainage angle of the shower tray together with the attached siphon to the sewer tee:
- turn the tray upside down and screw the included pins into it;
- screw on the limiters of the power elements (nuts);
- we put the power elements on the studs;
- we fix the siphon with a flexible hose;
- Using a level, we adjust the power frame so that it is 2-3 cm higher than the bottom point of the siphon;
- using nuts we fix the power structure;
- turn the tray over to its normal position and adjust the height of the legs. The lowest point of the drain hole should be 5 degrees higher than the sewer tee.
To make sure that the slope will allow water to be completely drained from the pan, attach the drain hose to the tee of the sewer pipe and pour a bucket of water into the pan.
Based on the speed, we determine the efficiency of drainage, if necessary, increasing the height of the tray above the floor using adjusting screws.
Having made sure that the drain is sealed and the water is effectively drained into the sewer, we proceed to the final installation of the pan.
In the attached instructions, a step-by-step method of how to assemble a shower stall only allows you to see the attachment points, but does not explain how to do it in practice.
In fact, the pallet is fused into the pallet at the factory. wooden inserts, into which the self-tapping screws should be screwed.
In order not to damage the tray, since it is quite difficult to assemble a shower stall yourself in cramped conditions, we take it out of the bathroom again and carry out its final assembly.
- Pallet assembly and on-site installation:
- we adjust their height using a level, achieving maximum compliance, because it will be very difficult to do this in a bathroom;
- we check the fixation of all elements;
- we bring the tray back into the bathroom and place it on the floor;
- connect the drain hose to the sewer tee, sealing it securely;
- connect flexible hoses to the water supply.
This knowledge might be enough to learn how to assemble a Chinese shower stall.
After all, most of them are equipped with similar structures for installing a pallet, similar to the products of European and American manufacturers.
Warning:
If you haven't had a chance to see hardware store How to assemble a shower stall, especially a glass enclosure, we will immediately warn you that this is the most fragile element, so the strictest precautions must be observed.
So we have to be patient, because we have to assemble a shower cabin for ourselves with our own hands, therefore, there is no room for imperfections and hackwork.
- Installation of glass fencing
Depending on how the designs differ, so does the assembly of shower cabins - the instructions for installing a plastic fence for an open-type cabin ends with recommendations for sealing the contours with silicone.
A rubber seal is installed on the sliding elements, the handles are screwed on and that’s it.
But in closed structures there are no clear actions prescribed, so you will have to learn from experience How to assemble a shower cabin yourself. But there is nothing to be afraid of, since everything is not so complicated.
After both side panels are screwed to the wall along with the connecting adapter, they must be linked to the upper power frame, on which the cover with lighting and shower head is installed.
To more clearly understand how to assemble a shower cabin, videos on manufacturers’ websites will help you see the simplicity of the process.
- First we fix it on the wall horizontal panel connecting the side guides;
- then insert it into its grooves glass elements(panels) of the rear wall, having previously placed a sealing silicone contour on them;
- We fix the panels in this position using fasteners from the shower stall kit. Most often these are plastic brackets that snap onto the panels;
- install the front panel by simply connecting it to the side elements;
- install the side glass panels, similar to the method with the back wall;
- We put on the top cover, also securing it. We connect flexible hoses to the watering can;
- install sliding doors, having previously attached silicone rollers to them. We make sure that there are no distortions.
That's all, now you know. Naturally, you need to make sure that there are no leaks and everything is functioning. It may be necessary to tighten something, and the experience gained during assembly will help to quickly fix the problem.
