Once upon a time, decorating the interior with stucco molding and bas-reliefs was available only to the highest nobility, the rich and large temples. Nowadays, making a bas-relief with your own hands is just a matter of labor and patience. Achievements modern technologies allow people who do not have an artistic education, but who are not devoid of artistic taste and imagination, to bypass the technical difficulties of creating stucco molding at home. Create bas-reliefs like those in Fig. Below, it is quite possible for a patient and attentive amateur.
New materials
In addition to the traditional material for stucco - gypsum - do-it-yourself stucco can be created from modern building mixtures with polymer additives; they are often combined under the general name “acrylic plasters”. You can learn how to increase the volume of a bas-relief using construction putty compounds from the video:
Video: sculpting a bas-relief from putty
Hobbyists also use a basic composition of architectural plaster, acrylic plaster and PVA glue in a ratio of 1:1:0.5 by volume. Gypsum and plaster mixture mix dry and cover with water, i.e. add water to the mixture, not the other way around. Bring to the consistency of dough like yogurt or low-fat kefir and add PVA, stirring thoroughly. The thickness of the mixture is selected according to the type of work with it, in which case which mixture is needed, see below.
The bas-relief on the wall is made using the technique of low relief (top left in the figure) or high, with protruding figures (top right). A high bas-relief is also called high relief. Technically, high relief differs from low bas-relief in that the figures are sculpted like a round sculpture (see below). Low bas-relief looks good in any lighting, except very dim, and high relief looks better in diffused light.
In living spaces, which are often lit quite brightly and evenly, it makes sense to use a mixed bas-relief technique (bottom left), without making the figures very convex. How to sculpt the bas-relief “Klimt Tree”, see for example. Master class video below:
Video: master class bas-relief “Klimt’s Tree”
The peculiarity of this work is that it uses almost all the techniques for creating bas-reliefs at home. Having become familiar with them visually, it will be easier for you to understand further and apply them in any of the techniques described below.
Note: At one time, the Austrian artist Gustav Klimt created the composition “Tree of Life”. Her style is so unique that the expression “Klimt tree” has become popular.
Reverse bas-relief, or counter-relief (bottom center in the top figure) is no longer stucco, but stone carving (the contours are cut in depth), which is technically much more complex. Therefore, we only note that the counter-relief needs bright and sharp oblique light, because the image actually draws a shadow. There is also a special type of bas-relief - shadow, lower right, where the entire pattern is formed by shadows from small and minute protrusions and depressions of a certain shape. When the direction and angle of incidence of light changes, the pattern changes, even changing facial expressions throughout the day. Shadow bas-relief is the highest art and, alas, short-lived: the protrusions and depressions become clogged and lose their shape when cleaned. The drawing fades, blurs, disappears.
Bas-relief techniques
Stucco molding on the wall at home can be done in one of the following ways, in order of increasing technical complexity:
- Plastering of free ones, i.e. models that were not initially fixed to the supporting surface and cannot be removed;
- Plastering of non-removable models on the supporting surface. These methods are especially good for beginners, because... allow you to receive the corresponding high and low relief, without risking the need to redo the whole work again in case of failure;
- Reverse casting from plaster according to the model to be removed. The method is somewhat more labor-intensive, but also suitable for beginners, because... You can pore over the model as much as you like until it is perfect. In addition, in one mold (form, mold) made according to a model, up to 20-30 identical products can be cast at home;
- Artistic plaster stucco in place, i.e. directly on the supporting surface. It requires thorough skills, but makes it possible to create large relief panels covering the entire wall, with contours around corners, going to the ceiling, and complete freedom of creative expression.
In place or on a sheet?
It is possible to make a bas-relief using methods 2-4 both locally and in parts on a table or floor. An excellent basis for fragments of a prefabricated bas-relief - plasterboard sheet, GKL. It is prepared as a base surface (see below), parts of the overall picture or complete compositions are drawn out on separate sheets or pieces of them of the desired shape (see figure), and mounted on a leveled wall.
The fastener heads and joints of the fragments are puttied with a base compound, then plastered and rubbed to match the base texture. Another good thing about prefabricated bas-reliefs is that a piece damaged due to inexperience can be remade without touching the rest. The bad thing is that the whole composition turns out to be heavy; It is impossible to attach a prefabricated bas-relief to weak walls (plasterboard, PHB partitions, etc.). however, it is generally not recommended to load weak walls with bas-reliefs - the load-bearing base must be stronger than the material compositions.
Tool
Making a bas-relief will require acquiring some special tool. Not very expensive, but you can’t count on success without it. First of all, half a rubber ball for kneading the next portion of the working mixture. Everything falls out of it at once if you turn it inside out, and the dried remains fly off in the same way. The bas-relief will be stronger and more beautiful the faster it is formed, i.e. the further the working solution is from the beginning of setting. The kneading ball eliminates wasted time on shaking, scraping, etc. to zero. It is also more convenient to collect the solution in small portions from a ball, because... There are no corners inside. For the same reason, the batch turns out to be more homogeneous (homogeneous), and this is one of the most important factors in the final artistry of the bas-relief.
Next, you will need spatulas for modeling - palette knives. Set of 6 pieces (item 1 in the figure) is enough for a start. For forming bunches of grapes, scales, etc. Convex-concave spatulas are also needed. Sets with these are expensive, up to 30 thousand rubles. (!) for a set of 48 items, so amateurs often use spoons of different sizes instead (coffee, tea, dessert, table), with rounded and pointed tips. However, you can’t just create low relief with spoons; the bend of the handle gets in the way. Therefore, for each spatula, take 2 spoons made of aluminum and other ductile metal. One is used as is, it will be a convex spatula. And the other handle at the scoop itself is twisted 180 degrees and bent back, you get a concave spatula.
Note: good convex-concave palette knives come out of disposable plastic spoons and forks. To obtain concave spatulas, their handles are heated with a lighter near the scoop, twisted and bent while heated.
You will also need another palette knife - an artistic knife, pos. 2. Painters use it to clean old paint from the palette, and the sculptors trim the edges, cut off the flash, and create a fine texture. A palette knife can be perfectly replaced with a wide shoe knife.
Next necessary tool– a confectionery syringe with nozzles (items 3 and 4) and, possibly, a 20 ml medical syringe without a needle. It is highly advisable to take a confectionery syringe with a trigger drive (item 4). Mixtures for bas-reliefs are not nearly as fluid as cream for cakes, and you need to form twigs, roses, leaves with a syringe (well, everyone has seen what they use to decorate cakes) by holding it with both hands; Hold the instrument at the tip with your left hand.
Finally, you will need 2-3 flat painting brushes different sizes and the same number of round ones, the cheapest, made of ox-ear bristles. There is no point in buying expensive squirrel and kolin for bas-relief “for the sake of coolness”, they are too soft. You will also need a very hard and rough children's nylon brush for painting. Use brushes to create texture (see below) and plaster small areas of the bas-relief.
Working with and caring for the tool
Palette knives and brushes are dipped in water before adding the next portion of the mixture. Residues and drips on the working part are the key to spoiled work. After work, the syringe is disassembled and lowered into water in parts; Palette knives and brushes are also placed there. When the instrument becomes acidic, the remaining working materials are thoroughly washed off with clean water. By the way, a properly cared for pastry syringe after working on the bas-relief is also suitable for use for its intended purpose. All instruments must be stored absolutely clean.
Bas-relief technologies
Creating a bas-relief on the walls in an apartment (or on plasterboard sheets, if the bas-relief is prefabricated) is carried out in stages as follows:
- The base surface is cleaned of old decoration, leveled with an accuracy of no worse than 2 mm/m, primed and covered with a base compound or any decorative plaster (see also below). GKL for prefabricated bas-relief does not require leveling;
- The background texture is applied to the base coating: with a foam rubber or fleecy roller, by “slapping” with foam rubber or felt, etc. At the same stage, the base is tinted, see below. If the base coat is decorative plaster, no texture or toning required;
- In one way or another (from those indicated above and described below), the relief is formed. During the formation of the relief, tinting is possible similar to that for the base;
- If necessary, the relief is painted over the top when completely dry. It is convenient to do surface painting with special paints for gypsum stucco molding - they are immediately shaded into very subtle halftones with a damp sponge. Acrylic paints will give sharper color transitions;
- The completely dried relief is covered with styrene-butadiene latex (sold in construction stores). The colors on dried gypsum stucco fade, like on frescoes, and latex treatment restores their color;
- After 1-2 weeks, so that the excess latex is completely absorbed and evaporated, the finished relief is varnished with acrylic varnish as needed.
How to tint stucco?
From the video above it is clear that the stucco bas-relief needs to be formed in layers. To tint the base for the relief and, if necessary, its details, apply thin layers, 1-2 mm each. Typically, layers of thick, low-fat sour cream are applied with a brush and smoothed with a palette knife. The batch for each layer is tinted with a color (pigment) for plaster; the deeper, the darker, or vice versa. For example, for the bark of a tree, a brown pigment of ever-decreasing concentration is taken, and for leaves, green is added as it moves outward. The next layer is applied to the set but still wet previous one. The texture with shades can be applied immediately with a brush or then rubbed with zero-grit sandpaper or, rough on large areas, wire brush. For more information on tinting gypsum stucco, see the following video.
Video: how to cover a bas-relief on a wall
"Free" plastering
This method is used to create tall floral bas-reliefs or low patterned overlays from disposable paper napkins. From the latter, using an inverted plate or bowl greased with lanolin as a model, you can get a plaster vase, but its practical meaning is more than doubtful. The base solution described above is not used. It is durable, holds its shape well, but its color is not pure white. Also, tinting is not used due to excessive consumption of material; ready-made elements paint.
For plastering, a liquid, almost watery solution of architectural plaster is prepared. The model is dipped in it ( artificial flower, napkin) and place it on a board covered with plastic film. Flowers are placed in the position in which they will be in the finished composition, see fig. When the solution has set, dip it again, then again, until the model is plastered with a layer 1-1.5 mm thick.
Flowers for drying are placed in the same position each time. In this way, flat areas are formed on them, allowing them to be firmly glued to the base. Glue with acrylic plaster of sour cream thickness or acrylic glue. You can also glue PVA.
Plastering on site
This is perhaps the most affordable way make, say, a molded lampshade for a chandelier (see figure) without experience. Plastering the model in place differs from the previous method in that the model is first glued in place and then plastered with a brush. The plaster solution is made thicker, like sour cream. If the stucco is on the ceiling, the layers are applied very thin, translucent, so that there are no drips. Accordingly, up to 10-15 or more layers will be required.
The main problem here is the material of the model. They are usually made from polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane and other soft plastics. But over time they all decompose. This happens very slowly, but still, after 3-7 years, dirty gray or yellow-brown irremovable stains begin to appear on the stucco. Therefore, models for plastering on site are best sculpted from salt dough, the same dough from which Christmas decorations with your own hands. Salt dough is glued to plaster, stone and other mineral building materials with acrylic glue or any mounting glue. Stucco molding based on non-removable salt dough models retains its appearance for 30-50 years or more.
Reverse casting...
This is the most common way to create stucco with your own hands, allowing you to obtain results of a completely professional appearance and quality without excessive work and skill. The classic procedure for reverse casting from plaster is shown step by step on the left in the figure, pos. a-e. Model 1 made of plaster, plasticine, plastic, etc., or an exemplary product that it is desirable to repeat/replicate, is placed on a flat board 2. Now, in order to facilitate the removal of the mold with the model, the board is covered with film.
Then the model is coated thin layer lanolin. It is not advisable to use medical Vaseline; the model may stick to the mold. A plaster and any other porous (wooden, salt dough, stone, etc.) model is coated several times, allowing the lanolin to soak in for an hour or two, until a solid greasy sheen appears on the surface.
Next, the model is coated with a layer of gypsum or alabaster mortar of 3 dough thickness, approx. 1 cm, immediately forming protrusions-anchors 4 and stiffening ribs 5. The set and almost hardened, but still slightly pliable coating is tied with a frame made of soft (annealed) steel wire 6. The branches of the frame are fastened with ties 7 made of thin copper wire.
The next step is to coat 9 with a thick cement-sand mortar from M150 in a layer up to 5 or more cm thick, this is already a casting mold. Here you need to remember to form the supporting surface of the mold 8. After a time of gaining 3/4 of the strength with cement-sand mortar (7-20 days, depending on external conditions), the finished mold 10 is separated from the shield using a wedge 11. Well, what if the shield was covered film, the mold is simply removed.
Finally, inner surface The molds are cleaned with a copper brush 12 and, if necessary, defects are corrected with gypsum or alabaster mortar. The burr is removed from the side of the mold 13 and, from its internal edge, a chamfer of approx. 0.7 mm. In a mold without a chamfer, the casting will almost certainly get stuck. Before casting, the inner surface of the mold is coated with lanolin, like a model. The mold is filled with the casting mass layer by layer. As soon as its penultimate layer begins to set, eyes with mustaches are inserted into it (upper right in the figure), by which the casting is then pulled out. For small ebbs, the eyes can be made from paper clips. The last layer is poured when the eyes are already firmly seated in the penultimate one, i.e. when it is completely hard, but still slightly damp. It is unacceptable to test the firmness of the lugs by shaking them!
Currently for runs up to 15-20 pcs. in the old fashioned way they do not cast from plaster; the mold for such cases is cast from silicone (bottom right). Model prepared as before. case, pour silicone layer by layer, in layers 1-2 mm thick, until a mold thickness of approx. 1.5-2 cm. In addition to technological simplicity, the silicone mold allows you to produce castings with shallow recesses, because it is elastic and stretchable.
Also, small rounded plaster parts are poured into silicone molds: berries (see figure), acorns, mushrooms, etc., even small fish. In this case, a flask tray is sculpted from plasticine, and the model is also sculpted from plasticine. The silicone is poured into the flask all at once; The flask and the model are not coated with anything. Once the silicone has hardened, the mold is simply torn off and the model is picked out. This is the so-called. mini – reverse casting of plaster.
...and not the other way around
In plaster mini-casting, a removable model is already used; I mean, the model disappears and needs to be made again for the next batch of castings. A silicone mold can also be made for plaster casting using a lost wax model, then from it it will be possible to obtain up to 100-200 or more castings, but convex ones, without depressions. In this case, the flask is made in the form of a box without a bottom made of plywood with a height 2-3 cm greater than the height of the model and a size such that the gap between the flask and the model is at least 1-1.5 cm.
The model is formed from wax on a board covered with film. Then they place the flask and cover the gap at the bottom with plasticine. Next, the model is doused with silicone in layers, as in the previous one. case, and when its last layer hardens, silicone is also added layer by layer along the contour until the mold is filled to the top. As soon as the last layer is poured, fill the plywood bottom. The model is melted with a household hairdryer: the lousiest silicone holds 140 degrees, which a hair dryer does not provide.
Modeling
Sculpting a bas-relief in place allows, as mentioned above, to achieve maximum artistic effect, but requires certain skills. You can purchase them without registering for the evening class art university or courses. Just practice with plasticine; The technique is the same, only when working with plaster the time is limited - work with the next section must be completed before it begins to set. Technically, plaster modeling is distinguished between low (flat) and high (round).
Flat
The technique of flat plaster modeling is shown in the selection of photos below. The rules here are like this. First, thick dough or rich sour cream material is applied in layers. Second, each layer is first smoothed, forming a relief at the same time, and then its contour is trimmed. The third, next layer, as in general in layer-by-layer filling with gypsum, is applied to the set but still wet previous one. Fourth, as the layers build up, they switch to smaller tools. And fifth, in each layer the work is carried out from the thinnest and smallest details to the thickest and roughest. In this case, from the leaf teeth to its petiole.
About branches
It is best to display branches on bas-reliefs pastry syringe or, very subtle, medical. The thickness of the branches is adjusted by pressing harder and weaker on the piston (item 1 in the figure). In this case, the texture is applied with a brush, and the kinks are formed with the tip of a palette knife. The syringe is filled with the base solution, and for painting and for snow-white it is plaster, like a non-removable model in place.
Strongly twisting branches (item 2) can be obtained by soaking a cord or twine in a gypsum solution of sour cream density, laying it on a board covered with film along the contour, and when dry, sticking it on the wall. If the bas-relief is prefabricated, lay out the cord immediately, it will dry firmly. To obtain branches of decreasing thickness, some of the strands are removed or, conversely, 3-5 branches of twine are twisted at the butt, then 2-3, then left alone. If the cord is visible through the plaster, the branch is additionally gypsumed in place, applying the solution with a brush
Note: branches for bas-relief made of gypsum cord can be soaked several times in tinted mixtures. The desired color is obtained by grouting with sandpaper.
Sharp ribs
You've probably seen sharp ribs in pictures with bas-reliefs. They are formed by folding the thumb and forefinger, and the thumbs by folding back the fingers of both palms. The height and thickness of the rib is changed by smoothly moving/spreading the fingers (palms) in motion as the rib is formed. Fingers, as in general for hand sculpting, should be slightly damp.
Round
The basis of the round molding is a wire frame anatomically similar to the object, i.e. with the proportions of the object and the location of the branches where the main bones of the skeleton are. The frame in a round figure works in the same way as the skeleton of a living creature. Information about skeletons can be gleaned from any course on the plastic anatomy of humans, animals and birds. Plastic anatomy is a discipline not of medical, but of artistic education. The material there is presented from the point of view of how to sculpt, and not how to treat, and is designed for listeners who are not inclined to the subtleties and rigors of science.
The figure is approx. from 30-40 cm is molded onto the frame as shown in pos. 1 pic. For smaller figures, the frame is simplified (item 2), but respecting the principle of anatomical similarity. In humans, by the way, it is not so complicated: we divide height by 8; 1/8 of it will be the dimensional module of the harmonious human body, pos. 3.
The frames of small animal figurines are made in a similar way (items 4a and 4b). It is advisable to reduce the weight of larger figures so that there is less fuss with securing the bas-relief (see below). In this case:
- The basic frame (pos. 5a) is made voluminous approximately along the contours of the body minus 1-3 cm for modeling, with the help of additional. branches from the same wire (pos. 5b). Auxiliary branches are attached to the main ones and fastened together by winding thin copper wire, or even better - by soldering.
- In a liquid plaster solution, like low-fat kefir, rolls of medical bandage are soaked, as for plaster casting broken limbs (see, for example, the film “The Diamond Arm”), and the frame is wrapped with a plaster bandage, pos. 5th century It is the rolls that need to be soaked: as soon as the bandage begins to peel off from the skein poorly, it means that the plaster has begun to harden and the rest of the roll goes to waste.
- Once the plastered frame has completely dried, it is covered in layers with a base solution (tinting can be used), the shape and texture are adjusted with tools and sandpaper, and it is plastered to pure white (if necessary) with a solution of architectural plaster.
Note: for frames of unfolded wings of birds, butterflies, elves, bats, ghouls, dragons, etc. It is convenient to use thin and fine metal mesh. Another option is branches of the main branches, covered with paper or scraps of nylon tights.
Support for figures
Figures for homemade high reliefs are sculpted separately; the location is too difficult. Therefore, each figure must have a flat area, and on the base surface, respectively. flat so that the shapes can be glued into place.
How to attach bas-reliefs
The high relief with round figures turns out to be quite heavy. If per 1 sq. dm. its supporting area is more than 1.5-2 kg, the bas-relief needs to be reinforced. Corrugated nails 80-120 mm, driven into plastic dowels. The attachment points are marked in advance under the thickest places, distributing them as evenly as possible over the area. The nail in the dowel should sit in the wall at least to a depth of 50-60 mm. The protrusion above the wall is 1.5-2 cm, for which the nail driven into the dowel is bitten off. The bas-relief mass above the protruding fastening peg should be at least 1-1.5 cm.
Superbas-relief
And in conclusion - how to try yourself in the elite technique of shadow bas-relief. All you need for this is a piece of plasterboard with a layer of fresh base solution of approx. 0.5 cm and nail 100-150 mm. You need to carefully remove the flash from the edges of the nail tip to get a regular 4-sided pyramid.
Tasteful architectural decor can transform the interior of a room, give it sophistication and turn an ordinary living space into an expensive apartment. With the help of stucco on the walls, the room can be filled with unique shades of emotions - from classical severity and purity to regal splendor. When choosing similar decorative elements to decorate your apartment, you should be guided by your taste and the requirements that the chosen interior style imposes in this regard. In any case, fragments of ornaments and stucco molding should be appropriate.
History of stucco
For the first time in our country they learned about stucco molding at the turn of the 17th - 18th centuries. This decor quickly gained unprecedented popularity among architects, because, due to the material used, it differed for the better from the gilded carvings usual for that time in its smoothness of shape, special matte light and amazing play of chiaroscuro. The stucco looked great on the walls pastel colors- soft blue, light green, pink. Quite quickly, ceilings and windows, fireplaces and arches began to be decorated with stucco decoration.
At first, stucco was made from expensive soft stone through traditional wood carving. But soon they were replaced by cheaper materials - alabaster and gypsum. To make such products, a mixture of clay or gypsum with marble chips was used. It is important to note that stucco was always made by hand, which gave each fragment a special spirit of originality and reflected the talent of the master.
The first use of plaster stucco in interior decoration dates back to the Baroque period. This style was distinguished by the whimsicality of its own curves. And such decor perfectly softened straight lines with the roundness of its forms. During the Baroque period, images of angels and cupids, bouquets of flowers, and garlands of leaves, fruits, and fruits were most often “sculpted.” At the end of the 18th century, the fabulous madness and pomp of the Baroque gave way to strict classicism.
Elements of stucco molding in a classical style emphasized all the horizontal and vertical lines of the interior. Due to the laconicism and symmetry of classicism ornaments, the relief of stucco decoration was contrasted with smooth surfaces and regular geometric shapes. With the beginning of the 19th century came to Russia new style Empire style, and increased attention to military themes. Laurel wreaths, weapons and torches were most often used in decoration. With the advent of Art Nouveau, stucco was again filled with curved lines, very simple and concise.
Current trends
Fashion today combines decorative elements of Baroque and Art Nouveau, classicism and modern style trends, for example, 3D stucco. The need for stucco molding has not dried up, as before, these decorations are highly valued by lovers of architectural sophistication. When it comes to decorative decoration interior, stucco has almost no competitors. Stucco molding gives the interior decoration of the rooms a special chic, which is comparable to the beauty of ancient theaters.
Stucco molding today serves as a relief decoration of building facades and interior spaces. The assortment is quite diverse: columns, cornices, pilasters, ceiling rosettes, brackets, domes, rosettes and more. Stucco decoration is currently the most common type of decor, allowing you to copy the original model many times.
Plaster stucco
Typically, gypsum has been used to make stucco for centuries. Thanks to the current plasticizing components, the manufactured gypsum stucco moldings are distinguished by their resistance to mechanical damage and significant strength. The excellent physical properties of gypsum are complemented by aesthetic characteristics. Advantage plaster decor lies in the fact that gypsum is a natural material.
Gypsum is resistant to mold, its surface does not serve as a favorable environment for microorganisms to live. But such stucco molding has several disadvantages, the main one being its heavy weight, which leads to some problems during installation. Sometimes load-bearing structures cannot support the weight of the product.
Polyurethane stucco
Polyurethane stucco molding competes with gypsum products. Polyurethane is resistant to the harmful effects of water and temperature fluctuations; it is a very light material, which allows polyurethane stucco molding to be fixed to ceilings using adhesive mixtures. Thanks to its plasticity, it is possible to produce polyurethane stucco molding of any complexity. And when you want to depict something extremely unusual, you can easily do it.
Due to its natural properties, polyurethane is difficult to melt. Accordingly, polyurethane products can be placed in close proximity to hot lamps. That is why Europlast stucco has become widespread in apartment interiors. In addition, polyurethane, unlike gypsum, is easy to paint, significantly expanding design possibilities.
Making stucco molding
You already know that stucco decor can in the best possible way transform your living space. If desired, you can buy stucco molding. Or you can get creative and make the product yourself. To make your own decoration from plaster, it is recommended to pay attention to several main stages of the procedure, following which you will be able to make many interesting things for your interior.
Sketch for creating jewelry
The technology for making stucco molding involves the sequential implementation of several tasks, and the production of a product begins by creating a model of decoration from plasticine. The model is necessary in order to cast a plaster decoration on it in the future. A plasticine model is made slightly larger than the intended object. Using plasticine allows you to change the shape of a thing an unlimited number of times until you get what you need.
After making the model, you need to perform actions in this sequence. Dilute the plaster to the consistency of sour cream, after which you need to apply the first layer to the sketch with a brush so that all the indentations are thoroughly coated. The second and remaining layers of gypsum are usually applied with a spatula. Leave the entire mass to dry for one hour, then remove the mold from the plasticine model.
If the object is of impressive size, after the first layer of plaster, lay copper mesh reinforcement. The final stage of creating a mold for stucco is coating the sketch with shellac or colorless furniture varnish on the inside. This must be done so that when casting the product, plaster does not stick.
Manufacturing of the product
When the sketch for the stucco molding is ready, you can begin the process of manufacturing the product. First of all, prepare the material, that is, dilute the plaster to a consistency that is similar to the consistency of sour cream. You need to pour the material like this: first pour a small amount of gypsum into the mold and distribute it into small recesses with a brush. When distributing the composition, make sure that no air bubbles form in it.
After spreading the plaster into the recesses, pour the remaining material into the mold in such a way as to fill it with plaster to the very bottom. The surface must be leveled with a spatula until it is as smooth as possible. This is necessary so that when installing the stucco molding on the ceiling lies flat. The gypsum hardens in about a day. A well-dried product rings a little when tapped.
After the material has hardened, the gypsum product is carefully removed from the mold. If necessary, all imperfections can be eliminated with a scalpel. Final work sanding the stucco with fine sandpaper is used to eliminate surface defects.
Installation of stucco products
Installation of stucco is simple and quick. First of all, you need to clean the area where you plan to glue the product from whitewash and other contaminants. If a cornice has been chosen as a decoration, then it is necessary to mark the exact boundaries of its location, and for ceiling rosettes, draw a circle in which the product will be mounted.
After sketching out the sections, use a chisel to make notches in the product and on the surface. This is necessary for better adhesion of the adhesive base to the material. The stucco molding is glued onto a gypsum solution, to which wood glue is added in a proportion of 3% glue by weight of the solution. Then the prepared surface of the wall or ceiling is wetted with water, the molded parts are also wetted, and the solution is applied to them with a brush. Having installed the molded product in place, you should move it slightly and remove excess mortar with a spatula.
In conclusion plaster stucco worth painting. Most often, water-soluble emulsion matte paint is used for ceilings. To avoid color differences, it is recommended to paint the stucco along with the ceiling. Gypsum products must be completely dry and cleaned of dust. If the stucco decoration is installed in a room with increased humidity, then the stucco molding is impregnated with moisture-repellent solutions.
Modern rooms are characterized by monotony: parallel vertical and horizontal planes create a square or rectangular space. You can get away from the everyday and familiar environment, and the most commonly used and effective method is stucco or panel stucco in the interior, which can successfully emphasize the dignity of the room and visually highlight the most important points indoors.
Stucco molding is considered an antique architectural tradition that gained popularity back in Ancient Greece. Despite the variety of existing styles for interior design, the desire to equip their own home with similar decor has not disappeared among its modern residents.
Let's talk about how to decorate a wall surface with stucco with your own hands, using inexpensive materials.
What is stucco made from?
Once upon a time, the drawing on the wall surface was created manually. A specially prepared solution was applied by specialists to the plaster and transformed into original patterns, hence the name - stucco. When molding was invented in production, stucco became accessible method wall decor.
Metal forms allow you to create a variety of ornamental elements without additional finishing. Without loss of high quality, all forms can withstand at least 2000 excellent pours.
In the process of creating stucco, a positive result depends on the quality of the materials used, which include:
Gypsum
Ecological, maximum resistant to temperature changes. During hardening, the gypsum mass becomes larger and even has the ability to penetrate small cracks. The plasticity of this material facilitates the workflow associated with plaster decoration.
Gypsum is not difficult to process, precisely for this reason finished products It is not difficult to give the required size. When working with stucco from this material, you can mask surface defects, as well as various damage to elements that often appear during transportation.
When creating gypsum stucco molding in a workshop at home, it is important to shake the mold that is filled with the mass to eliminate air bubbles.
Gypsum cladding also has its disadvantages: considerable weight, which negatively affects the durability of the finish. Also, gypsum does not repel moisture, but attracts it, which leads to the formation of fungus on the surface.
You can get rid of this drawback by applying a special protective agent to the stucco molding.
Polystyrene
This type of stucco in the interior has an acceptable cost, but cannot boast of exclusivity. The decoration is very fragile and requires careful handling, which is why it is mainly used for finishing the ceiling surface and the upper part of the wall.
Polystyrene production is carried out automatically. High quality elements are obtained by extrusion from a pre-melted composition.
Their texture does not have the distinctly contoured granules found in polystyrene foam, which is produced by foaming. Because of this grain, the stucco molding loses the clarity of the ornament.
Certain forms produce extruded foam, which has a high degree of density, the durability of which is comparable to polyurethane and solid wood.
Polyurethane
It is obtained by combining the necessary components to produce a gas formation reaction, resulting in the creation of foamed plastic. This material has high degree resistance to temperature changes.
Polyurethane stucco molding is durable, lightweight, easy to paint, moisture-resistant, has a huge range of products, and does not absorb specific aromas.
In texture and density it is similar to natural solid wood, but unlike it, it does not change shape and does not crack even after a long period of time.
Varieties of stucco elements
From the materials discussed above, a wide variety of products are created, as in the photo of stucco moldings on wall surfaces in the presented catalogue.
Festoons and medallions
Festoons or garlands imitate original plant decor and are placed in the upper part of the wall surface. Medallions are panels with a pattern of colors.
Niches. They are installed on wall surfaces; frames for niches can be purchased separately. Often the bottom of overhead niches is made of matte snow-white organic glass, which makes it possible to organize high-quality lighting.
For these purposes, a dim lighting device is installed under the glass surface, which, effectively illuminating the details arranged in a niche, emphasizes their incredible attractiveness, giving exclusivity to the palette.
Pilasters and columns
Includes several parts. The trunks are decorated with grooves to give elegance to the elements. Stucco columns are created in various styles. As a rule, columns made of polyurethane are intended exclusively for good design walls, do not bear any load.
However, if necessary, hollow elements can be equipped as load-bearing ones. For these purposes, a metal stand is placed in the cavity of such a column, which will bear the load.
Columns made from gypsum must be reinforced in such cases. Columns made of stucco often hide various risers located along the walls in the apartment in a visible place.
Brackets, pedestals
As for the first elements, they are reliable supports for shelves with books, window sills. Can be installed at the junctions of wall and ceiling surfaces in the form of corner parts.
Pedestals are considered supports for decorative accessories. Such stucco molding can withstand a load of no more than 50 kilograms. Ordinary details placed on a pedestal look exclusive and meaningful.
Both pedestals and brackets add a certain zest and solemnity to the style of the room, ennoble the architecture, and also successfully divide the area into functional space.
When installing such parts, it is important not to forget about their proportionality in relation to the size of the room. Massive stucco molding on the wall surface will visually narrow the room, and on the contrary, small stucco molding can easily get lost in a large space.
Domes
Used as ceiling decoration in the Empire style. You can create a painting on the dome by hanging a chandelier inside, which will be a rather original solution.
Remember, well-chosen decor will transform any room. And if you decorate an ordinary wall surface with stucco, you can get cozy, extravagant apartments, where many emotions reign - from severity to solemn pomp.
Photo of stucco on the walls
Since ancient times, technologies using gypsum have been used to decorate homes in architecture. And nowadays, interior design of private and public premises is not complete without the use of gypsum stucco. Stucco on the walls is used as a highly artistic decoration and gives any building a touch of aristocracy and elegance.
Types of stucco
To create an exclusive interior, gypsum stucco molding is made in the form of a variety of sculptural outlines, protrusions, ceiling patterns, reliefs, ornaments, vases and many other components. IN certain situations Plaster stucco molding can add fundamental touches to the interior design of a room. The production of gypsum elements is currently carried out in different directions:
- classical
- baroque
- ultra-modern
Now you can make stucco molding with your own hands at home. True, you will have to spend money on creating products certain time, but material costs will be minimal.
Despite the fact that gypsum is a very brittle and willful decorative material, it was chosen when creating stucco molding due to its swelling properties. This property allows gypsum to penetrate into the smallest crevices, providing high accuracy cast masterpieces.
When filling a mold with plaster, you need to shake it, which allows you to remove air bubbles and completely fill the recessed ornament. To avoid the warping effect, use a composition using ordinary lime mortar. During the process of making the casting solution, a proportion of water and gypsum mixture of 1:0.7 is used. The lengthening operation requires the use of a denser composition (water to gypsum ratio 1:2).
The latest stucco interior decorations are made using special shapes. Metal forms that have a flat inner edge are quite suitable, which makes it possible to produce products that do not require adjustment. The use of metal containers is also advisable in large quantities, since the metal can withstand almost 2500 repetitions of filling and emptying the container without conversion.
There are more cheap options forms - latex based. Silicone molds are characterized by lower reliability, and gypsum moldings formed in such forms require extra processing, since they appearance is unfinished.
Plaster stucco molding is made in stages. It is necessary to provide in advance for the presence of all required devices and raw materials. We will need:
- decorative plasticine that has the property of not sticking to hand surfaces
- scoop
- silicone grease
- tassel
- building gypsum
- clear varnish
First you need to make a model of the part, that is, mold it from plasticine. You can make such a model with your own hands, or use a drawing or a finished product. After this, its inner edge is coated with silicone grease using a brush. The model must be placed on a flat base so that it does not tip over while filling it with gypsum mortar.
The consistency of the resulting mixture should resemble sour cream, which will contribute to good filling of the mold. It is advisable to apply the first layer using a brush, and then fill the entire mold. You can use a special spatula. According to technology, when creating large forms of medallions or columns, after laying the first layer, it is necessary to place a layer of copper mesh for reinforcement.
The reverse side of the finished product is leveled, after which the mold is left to dry for a period of 1 to 4 hours. After drying, the finished product is removed from the container, which can be broken if necessary. The mined masterpiece is first sanded and then covered with a layer of transparent varnish.
Painting gypsum stucco
The surface of the plaster is almost perfectly white, which is why the ornament appears pearl-clean and exquisite. In interiors, painted stucco is often used to match the background of the walls or as a complete contrast. When painting plaster stucco, it is preferable to use the same paints that were used when painting the walls in the apartment, for example, water-based. If the gypsum stucco molding was treated with varnish, it is recommended to first apply two layers of primer to it and then paint it.
When preparing for work, the paint must be stirred and, if necessary, diluted with water. The paint is applied using a brush with long bristles - this is very practical when applying paint to convex surfaces.
To give products additional effects (for example, the effect of aging, gilding, wear), the “pattern of time” technology is used. Using pieces of fabric, synthetic materials or a sponge on plaster, you can create various natural textures: coil stone, artificial marble, granite.
Stucco on the walls master class
DIY stucco molding. How to make at home
Looking for a spectacular but inexpensive way to transform your interior? Great option- stucco molding made of plaster. The advantages of such decor are obvious: firstly, it does not require serious financial costs, secondly, it is easy to do it yourself, and thirdly, with it your home will acquire true individuality. In addition, gypsum elements can have almost any shape - make sure of this by evaluating photos of similar decorations in the interior. Do you want to “introduce” such decor into your home? If the answer is yes, for your attention detailed instructions and a video of making stucco at home.
Preparatory procedures
Before you start creating stucco, you need to stock up on working materials and tools, prepare a sketch of the future decor and make a mold for it.
You will need:
- spatulas and knives of various formats;
- building gypsum;
- art or construction plasticine;
- brush;
- silicone-based putty;
- silicone oil;
- release agent;
- dye;
- colorless varnish.
If this is your first time doing stucco, it is advisable to create a sketch of the future decor. Think over the design and dimensions of the product, put the design on paper, and then sculpt a prototype model of the decoration from clay or plasticine.
Advice. If you are not sure that you will get a beautiful model, you can simply buy polyurethane stucco prototypes - they are available in all construction stores.
- treat the inside of the prototype model with a release agent;
- mix silicone-based putty and silicone oil;
- apply the resulting mixture to the model with a brush - the thickness of the coating should be at least 4-5 mm; maximum size will depend on the complexity of the planned decor.
It is important to apply the silicone mixture in smooth strokes so that no air bubbles remain underneath - they will subsequently cause the appearance of unaesthetic depressions that will spoil the appearance of the stucco molding.
When the composition has dried, separate the model from the finished mold.
To be fair, it should be noted that you don’t have to make the mold yourself either - if you want to play it safe, you can buy it at a craft store.
Making stucco molding
Now proceed to preparing the plaster: mix 10 parts of dry material with 7 parts of water in small portions, and then stir them thoroughly. To give the composition plasticity, add a little PVA glue - this will reduce the risk of cracking the decor. Stir the mixture until its consistency resembles sour cream. The following is the direct process of creating stucco:
- Treat the mold with a release agent to prevent the plaster from adhering to the silicone.
- Apply the first layer of plaster with a brush.
- Pour the solution into the mold, continuously distributing it with vibrating movements to prevent the formation of air bubbles - moisture often accumulates in them, which destroys the stucco. You need to fill it to the very edges - the excess mixture can be removed with a knife or spatula.
Important! Please note that gypsum mixture within 3 minutes after mixing it loses its fluidity, and after 8-10 it loses its plasticity, so you need to pour the composition into molds very quickly.
- Using a wide spatula, thoroughly smooth the surface of the mixture.
- Approximately 20 minutes after pouring, carefully remove the plaster element from the mold. For final drying, set the stucco molding aside for a day.
Final finishing and installation
When the product begins to turn white, proceed to finishing. At this stage, you need to correct all the shortcomings and give the stucco a finished look. First of all, if there are any uneven spots, sand them with fine sandpaper. Then completely prime the back of the product.
As a result of your work, you will receive white stucco with an elegant, slightly marbled relief, but this does not have to be its final appearance - the product can be painted in any color. To do this, use water-based wall paint. If the composition is too thick, dilute it with additional water. Apply the paint with a small brush with soft long bristles - this way you can cover all raised surfaces. Once the stucco has dried, clear coat it with clear varnish to protect the paint layer.
Now all that remains is to install the decor. This can only be done 3 days after pouring. Before installation you need to prepare work surface that will be directly decorated: clean it thoroughly and lightly moisten it with water. Then prepare an adhesive solution to fix the stucco molding: mix 40% PVA glue and 60% water. First apply the composition to the work surface, and then to the back side of the stucco molding. Next, use light rubbing movements to secure the product to the surface. Remaining glue must be removed quickly so that it does not dry out. If after installation there are unsightly joints or holes left, fill them with plaster compound.
Plaster stucco molding is not only an excellent tool for interior decoration, but also interesting way creative self-expression. So, if you want to simultaneously make your home unique and show plenty of imagination, without emptying your wallet too much, feel free to take on the production of such decor.
How to make stucco with your own hands: video
Plaster stucco molding in the interior: photo
