Recommendations for installing a drainage system. What should be the correct drainage system and how to independently design and build it on the site? Proper site drainage diagrams and recommendations

Greetings, friends!

Often the land allocated by the architectural department for a summer cottage plot does not meet the owner’s expectations. One common problem is excessive soil moisture. The result of this is poor tree growth and various diseases of garden and vegetable plants. And this is not the only trouble that results from waterlogged soil.

Water accumulating in the soil leads to erosion of the foundation. The country house and other buildings on the plots may begin to settle, and the cellar and basements will be flooded every spring. In addition, when wet soil freezes, it rises and puts pressure on the blind area around buildings and garden paths, which leads to the formation of cracks.

There is a way out of this situation - it is necessary make drainage in your area. This task is not particularly difficult, and the entire complex of work will take no more than two weeks. And the time and effort spent will pay for themselves - this way you will be able to avoid many troubles, increase the durability of buildings and provide for yourself good harvest in the garden and vegetable garden.

You can’t do without drainage systems:

1. In areas with clay soil, where even a little rain will lead to the appearance of long-standing puddles.
2. In areas with a high groundwater horizon.
3. In areas with a horizontal ground surface and no drainage.
4. In areas located at the foot of the slopes.

Types of drainage systems

Excessive soil moisture in a summer cottage can have two reasons. The first of them is the high clay content in the soil. Such soil does not drain water well; as a result, water from rain and melting snow accumulates and stagnates in the top layer of soil. Another reason is the close location of groundwater to the soil surface. These waters are a serious problem for building foundations and basements, especially in the spring.

Based on the reason high humidity soil, an appropriate type of drainage system can be used to drain excess water. There are two main types of drainage systems - open and closed. The first one can be used for clay soil– when it is quite enough to remove water from the surface layer. To drain groundwater, we can only use drainage closed type.

What is open drainage?

Open or superficial drainage system can be created either according to a previously developed project or without it. There are two ways to make open drainage:

• local method
• creation of a ditch system

The first method is the simplest option for the drainage system. IN in this case water is not drained from the entire territory of the site as a whole, but only from those places that are subject to flooding in spring, autumn or during prolonged rainy weather.

The first step in constructing an open drainage is to identify the areas of greatest stagnation of water. In these places, water intake wells are dug or containers dug into the ground to collect water. The water that accumulates there can be used to water garden crops in the future. The most water collects in the following places:

• at the lowest point of the site;
• in areas with a flat surface - for example, in front of the porch;
• in depressions on the surface of the earth.

In the case where water accumulates at the border of the site, a ditch is dug to drain the water beyond its territory. If the place with excess soil moisture is located in the depths of the site, then a drainage well is dug.

Laying the ditch system

This method of reclamation is also used in clay soil conditions. In this case, a network of drainage ditches is created throughout the area. Water collected from the entire territory is drained through ditches into a catchment well. The drainage ditches system is constructed in accordance with a previously developed scheme.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

To ensure high-quality drainage, when digging ditches, a slope in the direction of the drainage basin must be maintained. If there is a natural slope, the bottom of the trench is made parallel to the earth's surface. If the ground surface on the site is horizontal, then it is necessary to make an artificial slope. Otherwise, water will stagnate in the ditches.

The number of drainage ditches is set in accordance with the level of soil moisture. The more clay the soil contains, the more trenches need to be dug. The minimum depth of the ditch should be fifty centimeters. The width of the trench is determined by the distance from the water intake. The maximum width should be the ditch into which water flows from the entire network and which directly flows into the reservoir.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

Once the trench network has been dug, it must be tested. To do this, you need to artificially run a stream of water through it. In places where this flow is delayed, the slope of the ditch should be increased.

How does closed drainage work?

A closed drainage system can be pipe or reservoir. A pipe drainage system consists of pipes laid in the ground at a certain depth, the value of which is determined by the density of the soil. The looser the soil, the deeper the pipes must be laid. To create closed drainage, special perforated pipes are used, into the holes of which water from the soil penetrates, which then flows through the system into a drainage basin, drainage tunnel, or stormwater well.

Due to the fact that laying closed drainage is much more expensive than creating open system, this method of reclamation justifies itself only when the groundwater boundary is closer than 2.5 meters from the surface of the earth.

Reservoir drainage is a filter bed made of crushed stone, which is laid at the base of the building.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

In areas with a rainy climate and frequent downpours, a combined drainage option should be installed - a combination of a deep drainage system with a storm drain. You can create either one or one consisting of ditches.

Accessories for drainage systems

Before installing a drainage system, you need to decide on its type. The correct choice of drainage type is determined by the specific local conditions. When the type of drainage system is chosen, you must first develop a plan, establish what materials and in what quantities are needed for this, and calculate the construction estimate.

Materials needed for drainage construction open type, depend on which trench option will be chosen - backfill or tray. For backfill ditches you will need small and large crushed stone, as well as geotextiles.

Trench trenches are more effective for drainage. For their construction, ready-made trays are used, the material for which can be:

• concrete;
• concrete with polymer filler;
• plastic.

The best option is plastic trays, which weigh little and, at the same time, are quite durable.

When constructing a closed type drainage, you will need special pipes, geotextiles and crushed stone.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

The use of geotextiles in the construction of a drainage system is highly desirable - this material allows only water to pass through and retains solid particles. Thus, it prevents the drainage from gradually filling with silt.

Regardless of what kind of drainage system is being built, open or closed, to carry out the work you need to acquire a level and a laser rangefinder, which are needed to study the topography of the site and draw up a correct plan for the system. In order to maintain the required slope when digging trenches and laying pipes, you will need a level. These tools can only be dispensed with when constructing local catch basins.

Do-it-yourself drainage on the site video

The procedure for performing work during the construction of drainage systems

In order to successfully build drainage on summer cottage, you need to be guided by the following general considerations:

1. The construction of a closed drainage system requires a large amount of excavation work. In this regard, it is necessary to build drainage even before trees are planted on the site, and even better - before the foundation of the buildings is laid.
2. Before work begins, a detailed plan of the system must be drawn up. To do this, it is necessary to study the terrain, determine the highest and lowest points on the site, and set the value of the required slope.
3. When designing closed system Inspection wells should be included in the plan to ensure the possibility of servicing the drainage system.
4. When laying a drainage pipeline, the recommended slope is from two to ten millimeters per meter of pipe.

How to build an open drainage system

Construction of an open drainage system is a much easier task than laying a closed drainage system, since it does not require digging deep trenches. When laying a network of trenches, a plan for their location is first drawn up. Then trenches are dug. Typically, the main ditches are laid along the perimeter of the site, and auxiliary ditches - from the places of greatest accumulation of water. In this case, the depth of the trench should be from fifty to seventy centimeters, the width should be about half a meter. Auxiliary trenches should slope towards the main ditches, and the main trenches should slope towards the drainage basin. The walls of the trench should not be vertical, but beveled. The angle of inclination should be from twenty-five to thirty degrees.

The further progress of work depends on what kind of system is being built, backfill or tray. When constructing a backfill system, the ditch is first filled with crushed stone - coarse to 2 thirds of the depth, and then fine. Turf is laid on top of the crushed stone. To prevent silting of crushed stone, it is advisable to cover it with geotextiles.

The construction of a tray drainage includes the following steps:

1. Laying trenches while maintaining the required slope.
2. Pour a ten-centimeter layer of sand onto the bottom of the ditches, which must then be compacted tightly.
3. Installation of trays and sand traps, which are plastic parts that prevent sand and debris from entering the drainage, and thereby protect the system from silting.
4. Covering the ditches at the top with gratings, which prevent clogging of the trenches with fallen leaves and various debris, and also serve an aesthetic function.

How to build a closed drainage

The construction of a closed drainage system consists of the following steps:

1. Studying the topography of the site using a level and a laser range finder, and constructing a drainage network plan. If surveying instruments are not available, then you should wait for heavy rain and observe the movement of rainwater flows.
2. Laying trenches for the drainage pipeline.
3. Filling the bottom of the trenches with a layer of sand seven to ten centimeters thick, followed by compaction.
4. Laying geotextiles in the trench, with the edges of the fabric protruding beyond the sides of the ditch.
5. Laying a twenty-centimeter layer of crushed stone on top of the geotextile, serving as a filter. In this case, limestone crushed stone should not be used, as this may result in the formation of a salt marsh.
6. Laying pipes on a layer of crushed stone. In this case, their holes should be directed downwards.
7. Sprinkling crushed stone over the pipes and covering it on top with the edges of a geotextile fabric, which will filter water from suspended particles, thereby preventing siltation of the system.
8. Filling ditches with soil over which turf can be laid.

The drainage system should end with a well for collecting water, which must be dug at the lowest point of the site. From this well, water can be discharged into a natural reservoir, into a ravine, or into a general storm drain, if there is one in a given locality.

A properly constructed drainage system will prevent problems associated with excessive dampness, which is why its construction is mandatory in areas with wet soil. And those dacha owners who are not confident that they can cope with the construction of drainage on their own should contact specialists and pay the required amount, but should not try to save on such an important functional element of their dacha as drainage.

Well, that's all, guys - I hope I was able to answer your question: " How to make drainage on a site with your own hands". Good luck to everyone!

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High groundwater levels are a fairly common phenomenon in suburban areas, especially those located in lowlands. This factor has almost no effect on garden plants, which cannot be said about buildings, trees and septic tanks located on the site. The solution to the problem is site drainage. It is important to know how to make drainage on a site with your own hands correctly. This is exactly what this article will discuss.

Why is drainage needed on the site?

The very first thing you need to do after purchasing suburban area, is its thorough study, and Special attention should be given specifically to the height of the soil water. You can find out this information in different ways: talk to local residents, find out from the previous owners of the site, or order an analysis from a company specializing in such research.

However, the main aspects can be determined independently. For example, if clay predominates in the soil, then drainage is a mandatory element of the site: clay is practically waterproof, and good rain can literally flood the entire area of ​​the site or its individual parts. In cases where the site has a slope in one direction, drainage is also needed so that water does not accumulate in one place, thereby washing away the ground.

When it becomes clear that the installation of drainage must be mandatory, then you can begin to select suitable system. This process will depend on many nuances.

There are two main methods for draining water from the territory:

• open drainage;
• closed drainage.

Open drainage

Read more about how to properly make drainage on a site using the open method. Open drainage implies the presence of a network of trenches on the site, which are located along the perimeter of the flooded area. Through these trenches, water is diverted into a drainage well, where it will no longer harm anyone or anything. An open drainage system does not require costs and is easy to implement: anyone can do it, even if they have experience construction work he doesn't have.

Typically, ditches are made 50-60 cm deep and the same width. Very an important condition is the presence of a constant slope towards the water intake, since water moves through the trenches by gravity. The walls of the ditches should be cut at a 30-degree slope to make it easier for water to get into them.

As a result, water from all the grooves in the area ends up in the last one, which should be wider and deeper. This last section connects directly to the drainage well, which discharges water to the receiving water. The last stage of creating an open drainage is testing the system, for the implementation of which it is enough to pour a certain volume of water into the ditches. If the slope is maintained, water will flow evenly through all parts of the system without stopping or stagnating. If this does not happen, then the dug trenches must be corrected until the problem is completely eliminated.

Decorating an open drainage system with your own hands

Of course, a site striped with ditches is completely incapable of pleasing to the eye. Let's consider how to properly drain the area so that the system looks harmonious. All holes need to be masked, which will not only improve the aesthetic qualities of the structure, but also add strength to it, which automatically extends the service life of the drainage.

Often the material used to decorate open drainage is crushed stone. Large stones are laid out at the bottom of the ditches, and the whole thing is covered with small stones on top. If desired and if funds are available, the top layer can be covered marble chips or similar waterproof material.

How to make drainage on the site if there is no desire to spend extra money on decorating the system, but the need for camouflage still remains? A technique called fascinal drainage can be used. The essence of this method is that fascines are made from dry branches, which are placed in ditches.

To create fascines, a large amount of brushwood is collected, from which it is necessary to make bundles about 25-30 cm thick, with thick branches placed in the center of the bundle. Naturally, brushwood should not lie haphazardly in the fascine: the thick edges of the branches should be on one side, and the thin ones on the other.

When the fascines are ready, you can begin laying them on the trestles pre-installed in the ditches. Goats are crossed stakes that are mounted in each ditch along the entire length of the drainage. When laying the fascines on the trestles, the thick ends should face up.

The first step is to dig trenches into which drains will be laid in the future.

The depth of the trenches is a variable value, which for the most part depends on the soils lying on the site:

• on clay soils, the trench should have a depth of about 0.6-0.8 m;
• if the main soil on the site is loam, then the depth of the trench will vary from 0.7 to 0.95 m;
• the presence of sandy soil necessitates digging a trench 1 meter deep.

It is also important to understand that they are not laid at the very bottom of the ditches, so their depth may be another 0.2-0.3 m greater. In addition, for high-quality operation of the system, the pipes must lie deeper so that the freezing soil does not in any way affect the functionality of the drainage. If the drainage system is made to protect the house from flooding, then the depth of the trenches should be at least 30 cm greater than the depth of the foundation. Read also: "How to make site drainage with your own hands - types of drainage systems, design rules."

Compliance with the slope is mandatory, but in the case of pipes it is a little easier to achieve. The extreme and lowest point of the system should be a drainage well or water inlet, and the choice here will depend on the preferences of the owner of the site: sometimes it is preferable to place a container at the end of the drainage and collect water there to later use it for personal purposes.

Selection of drainage pipes

Drainage pipes are usually laid in a herringbone pattern. Two auxiliary pipes are inserted into the main line, thereby creating a drainage network that operates throughout the entire area.

Drainage systems used to use ceramic or asbestos cement pipes. Today, the market offers a much wider range of pipes, the most popular of which are plastic, which can be either solid or perforated. As a result, it is best to give preference to corrugated plastic pipes, which demonstrate a very long service life.

When choosing pipes and designing a drainage system, you need to take into account the composition of the soil. In the case of rocky soils, drainage filter material is not required, but in all other cases, you will have to use geotextiles in which the drains are wrapped.

The need to use geotextiles is determined by the presence of various debris and sand in the soil, which leads to contamination and siltation of the pipeline. If you do not want to wrap pipes with filter material, you can purchase ready-made products with geotextiles yourself.

How to make drainage correctly

How to make drainage on a site with your own hands? First, ditches are dug taking into account the selected dimensions. The slope along the entire length of the trench must be at least 7 cm per 1 m. To check the slope, use building level. The bottom of the trenches is laid with a layer of sand about 10 cm thick and the same layer of crushed stone. Having compacted the resulting cushion, you can begin laying and assembling the pipeline. The installed pipes are wrapped in geotextile and covered with a layer of crushed stone and sand about 20-30 cm thick. The remaining space of the trench can be filled with soil. The soil needs to be filled with reserve, since the ground will subside slightly. All stages of drainage construction can be seen in more detail in the photo.

Conclusion

Installing drainage yourself is not such a difficult task that anyone can do. Now that the question of “how to drain a site” has been covered, the problem will be solved even easier. Knowing how to perform basic actions will help you do this work without any problems or financial costs.

Don’t want to put up with excess moisture in your summer cottage? And you are doing the right thing. Excess water in the soil will bring nothing but harm: crop failure, death of plantings, swampy areas, destruction of the foundations of buildings. A simple way to get rid of a complex problem is to install a drainage system yourself.

Reasons for installing a drainage system

If the territory land plot flat, and the soil is fertile and absorbs water, then you are incredibly lucky. In this case, there is no need for drainage.

Drainage of a summer cottage is required in the following cases:

1. The site is located on clay soil.
2. Low location of the territory.
3. The country house stands on a slope or at the foot of a hill.
4. The region where the dacha was built is characterized by frequent and heavy rains and snowfalls.
5. Groundwater flows at a distance of less than 3 meters from the surface of the earth.

Excessive soil moisture is judged by standing puddles and vegetation. Thus, sedge and reeds grow in wetlands.

Confirm the need for drainage once again by conducting an experiment. Dig a hole 700mm deep and check after 24 hours to see if water has collected there. If yes, then drainage at your summer cottage is required.

Types of drainage systems in the country

High humidity in the territory of a summer cottage is due to for various reasons. Depending on this, one or another type of drainage is chosen:

• Surface is the easiest way to drain the soil. This type of drainage system is designed to protect the site from water, the source of which is precipitation in the form of rain and snow. It is installed in areas without sudden changes.

Surface drainage is a set of trenches dug along the perimeter of the territory. Flowing into the ditches, the water enters a collector installed at the lowest point of the system.

Surface drainage

The external drainage system is divided into two subtypes: point and linear.

• Deep drainage is a closed method of draining a plot of land. It is resorted to in the following cases:

1. When country house built on an uneven surface;
2. when groundwater is close to the surface of the earth;
3. with clay soil.

A do-it-yourself deep drainage device runs along the perimeter of a residential building and around agricultural buildings.

Preparation for construction work

Drainage is a system of ditches and pipelines. In order to correctly connect the elements to each other, it is necessary to make complex engineering calculations and draw up a drainage diagram. You can’t handle this alone, so call the specialists of the Marisrub company for help.

Taking into account the characteristics of the soil and landscape, experts in their field will draw up a design diagram and advise you correct device gutter

The drainage system diagram contains the following information:

• The place on the site where the installation of the drainage system begins. This is the highest point in the territory.
• The lowest point of the system relative to the collector;
• Location of main and additional ditches;
• Dimensions of trenches and pipes;
• Name and quantity of consumables;
• Installation diagram of pipelines and wells;
• Trench inclination angle.

When starting to install drainage yourself, take into account certain nuances:

1. The entire land plot is subject to drainage. Therefore, drains for buildings and plants are included in a single system.
2. Material and time costs are inevitable. On average, it takes up to 3 months to install a drainage system.
3. Drainage of the area is carried out in the summer.
4. The pipes are installed at a depth below the freezing point of the soil, and the drainage system around the residential building is laid below the base of the foundation.

Installation of surface drainage

Making an external drainage system with your own hands is easy even for novice builders.

Installation is easy:

1. Using the design as a guide, dig ditches according to the marked lines. Observe the dimensions: depth – 500 mm, width – 400 mm. To prevent the walls of the trench from crumbling, they are made sloping at an angle of 30 degrees. Externally, the trench resembles an inverted trapezoid. The main ditches drip at a slope towards the water collection point - a well or reservoir. Additional branches of the system are made at an angle to the main trenches. The slope size is from 50 to 70 mm per 1 meter of length.
2. Check the operation of the drainage system. To do this, pour 2-3 buckets of water into the ditches and watch the flow. If liquid accumulates in the area, adjust the slope angle.
3. Fill the ditch with crushed stone. Coarse material is laid underneath, and the top layer is formed by smaller crushed stone. This is recommended for water filtration.

To extend the life of the structure, buy plastic trays and place decorative grilles on them. To prevent clogging of the trays, additional sand traps are installed.

Thus, with the help of simple manipulations, you have installed an external linear drainage system with your own hands.

Point drainage is necessary for local water drainage. It is installed in places where precipitation drains from the roof and in areas where plants are watered.

Installation of deep drainage

The construction of a closed drainage system is considered difficult to do with your own hands and is economically expensive. To install deep drainage you will need:

• Plastic pipes with drainage holes and a diameter of 10 cm for the main trenches or 7.5 cm for additional ones.
• Connecting elements for pipelines;
• Water collector for waste water. Reinforced concrete rings, plastic cans, and car tires are suitable as collectors.

DIY installation of deep drainage consists of the following steps:

1. Dig ditches sloping towards the sewer, 600mm deep for clay soil or 900mm deep for sandy soil.
2. Place a 10 cm layer of sand at the bottom of the trench and compact it thoroughly.
3. Cover the trench with geofabric so that the edges reach the sides.
4. Pour crushed stone 20 cm high and lay drains on top with the holes facing down. Inspection wells are installed at pipeline bends. They help monitor the operation of the drainage system and clear it of blockages.
5. Pour more crushed stone and wrap the geomaterial into a roll.
6. Fill the trenches with soil and cover with turf.

Deep drainage is a reliable thing, but the installation is expensive. Therefore, thrifty owners summer cottages found a way out of the situation: they replace pipes with a bunch of branches and brushwood, and geotextiles with moss or turf.

– this is not a luxury, but a necessity. Therefore, approach the issue of installing it responsibly in order to avoid troubles in the future.

Drainage of ground and storm water from the foundation will significantly increase the service life of both the permanent building and the country house. An easy-to-use drainage system will protect underground concrete structures from gradual erosion, and basements from watering. But it is extremely important to prevent the destruction of the very foundation of the structure, right?

A well-designed drainage scheme around the house will help to build an efficient system for collecting and draining natural water. We invite you to familiarize yourself with carefully selected and verified information based on regulations and real experience of builders of low-rise buildings.

We will tell you in detail about the types of drainage systems, the features of their design, and the specifics of operation. We will give reasons in favor of choosing a certain type of drainage. The useful information presented to your attention is supplemented with photos, diagrams and video instructions.

When designing a drainage system, the goals that are planned to be achieved are first determined. They may consist of draining the entire area, protecting the foundation and basement of the house from excess moisture.

From existing systems There are two main types of drainage - open and deep (closed). The first one can be used for needs Agriculture, for drainage from cultivated areas. Closed drainage is used to drain water in dacha and cottage areas, to protect buildings from the negative effects of high groundwater levels.

The organization of a drainage system is necessary when the groundwater level is high, which is especially evident during the flood period. Drainage protects the concrete foundation from the aggression of underground water and reduces the hydraulic load

Combined drainage systems are also used. They are often supplemented with storm sewer lines designed for recycling atmospheric water. Provided they are properly designed, they can significantly save on the construction of each system separately.

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The first and main sign that site owners need to arrange drainage is stagnation of water during the snowmelt period. This means that the underlying soils have low filtration capacity, i.e. do not allow water to pass through well or not at all

Drainage is necessary in areas with pronounced signs of soil erosion: cracks that appear during the dry period. This is a manifestation of soil erosion by groundwater, ultimately leading to destruction

Collection and drainage of water is required if, during the period of snowmelt and heavy rainfall, groundwater rises to the level of utility lines.

Drainage systems are constructed in areas with a characteristic slope. But in this case they are needed for a balanced distribution of water and retention of it on elevated areas

Flooding of the area during snowmelt

Erosion and erosion of soil under the foundation

Water at the level of utility lines

Suburban plot with slope

#1: Open drainage device

Open drainage is the simplest and most economical method of draining water, which can be used subject to the following conditions:

• the underlying soil layer is clayey, poorly permeable to water, which is why the fertile layer, located 20–30 cm from the surface of the earth, is waterlogged;
• the site is located in a lowland into which rainwater naturally flows during periods of heavy rainfall;
• there is no natural slope in the terrain of the site to ensure the movement of excess water towards the street.

Open drainage is arranged in areas with high groundwater level, the elevation of which is most often determined by the location of the land plot in a lowland or the clayey composition of the soil, which does not allow or very weakly allows water to pass into the underlying layers.

A drainage system designed to drain excess groundwater works perfectly in tandem with a storm drain, whose job is to collect and drain precipitation (+)

Planning a drainage scheme is best done at the design stage of a house. This will allow you to tie up the work and place the rainwater inlet under the gutters before installing the blind area.

Open drainage is considered the simplest and does not require drawing up a diagram. It consists of trenches 0.5 m wide and 0.6-0.7 m deep. The sides of the trench are positioned at an angle of 30°. They encircle the perimeter of the territory and direct wastewater into a ditch or pit, into a storm drain.

Areas sloping towards the street are easier to drain. To do this, a drainage ditch is dug in front of the house, across the slope, which will retain water from the garden. Then they dig a ditch, it will direct the wastewater towards the street, into the ditch.

If the site has a slope in the opposite direction from the road, then a transverse drainage ditch is dug in front of the fence facade and another longitudinal one is made to the end of the site.

The disadvantage of such drainage is its low aesthetics and the need to regularly clean the gutters from silt and dirt that periodically accumulate in them. This type of drainage is not recommended to be installed under the road surface, as it leads to subsidence of the soil and deformation of the road surface.

The length of lines for water drainage, the number of wells and sand collectors depends on the area of ​​the site, its topography, and the intensity of precipitation in a particular area.

Drainage ditches can be strengthened from erosion using reinforced concrete slabs, stone paving, turf with crushed stone bottom

If the site is considered more or less flat, and its level of swampiness is not too high, then you can get by with the installation of a simple drainage system.

Along the foundation of the fence, in the lowest place of the site, they dig a ditch 0.5 m wide, 2-3 m long and 1 m deep. Although such a drainage system will protect against high groundwater levels, it will also cope well with precipitation.

To prevent the edges of the ditch from collapsing, it is filled with rubble, broken glass and brick. Having filled it, they dig the next one, it is also filled and compacted tightly. The excavated soil is used to fill low-lying areas on the territory

Over time, this simple drainage system may become ineffective due to gradual silting. To prevent this from happening, it can be protected with a geo-textile. It is laid on the ground, after filling the ditch, it is overlapped and covered with it. drainage layer. From above, to hide the ditch, it is sprinkled with a layer of fertile soil.

#2: Construction of an effective storm drain

Storm sewerage is necessary for the accumulation and removal from the site of water falling in the format atmospheric precipitation. It is equipped with point and linear drainage devices.

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Stormwater sewer systems arranged to collect atmospheric water and prevent its penetration into the soil and then into the underlying soils

Based on the type of water intake devices, storm sewer systems are divided into point and linear. The former are built in areas with organized drainage, the latter - with unorganized

Linear water intakes have a much larger collection area than point ones. They are installed next to houses with unorganized drainage and on areas paved with a waterproof coating

In linear storm drains, water is both collected and transported through a network of channels covered with metal or plastic grating. In point systems, water is drained through a system of pipes laid in the ground

Storm sewer with point water intake

Point storm drainage channels

Linear water intakes

Structure of trays with gratings

The first type of water collectors is installed under the risers of an organized drainage system. The second type of water collectors is located under the slopes of roofs with unorganized drainage.

Water entering the catch basin moves through an open or closed pipeline. It is diverted either to a common catchment well or to a collector well, from which it moves to a centralized sewer network or a drain.

A storm inlet is a container for collecting water, equipped with outlets for connecting pipes of a linear drainage system. The devices are made of durable plastic or cast iron (+)

Elements storm system With point water collectors there are also drainage systems, ladders, and dampers. Some manufacturers provide the possibility of connecting storm water inlets to roof gutters, as well as to underground drainage systems.

In addition, ready production models provide sand traps and garbage containers to simplify system maintenance.

The device with installed decorative grille should be located 3-5 mm lower than the level of the path or ground

This is a system of drainage gutters made of plastic or concrete, which are installed on the site in those places where water accumulation is most likely, but extremely undesirable.

For a drainage well, choose the most distant place from the house, well, or cellar. If there is a natural or artificial reservoir nearby, then water can be drained into it

When designing with linear water intakes, the first step is to plan the placement of a catchment or collector well. Next, determine the location of the rotary and inspection wells. Their placement will depend on the placement of stormwater inlets, gutters and closed sewer branches.

To prevent water from the street from entering the yard, gutters are installed along the line of the gate leading into the yard, garage doors, as well as in the wicket area. When choosing system elements that will be installed on the roadway, the future load on them is taken into account.

To prevent moisture from getting inside the building, the slope of the coating in the garage is made towards the water intake grille. So water, when washing a car or thawing snow on vehicle, will flow into the gutter.

Drainage trays must be installed on the porch, around the pool. They are also installed along the blind area, garden paths platforms lined with facing material

To give the storm drain a neat appearance, special trays made of polymer concrete and plastic are used, which are covered with metal or plastic gratings. When entering the house, use a special tray to clean shoes.

The grate for the gutter installed near the pool is chosen to be plastic, white to avoid burns on a hot summer day.

For intensive use, drainage trays are mounted on concrete base. The higher the load class on the roadway, the thicker the concrete base should be (+)

The gutters and water intake points are connected to the drainage tank. Inspection wells are provided at the junctions of gutters and pipes. They are designed to facilitate access to the system and clean it from possible clogging.

Inspection wells are made mainly of plastic. In order to obtain the required depth, their design provides for the possibility of extension using special extension elements.

The placement, slope and length of storm sewer pipes - all these characteristics are very individual and depend on many conditions on the site

A wide range of system elements allows you to design the most rationally, which will be optimal from a technical and financial point of view.

The main elements of linear drainage are gutters made of concrete, polymer concrete, plastic, point receivers, sand traps, gratings (+)

#3: Construction of closed drainage options

Underground, closed drainage is used if the installation of an open system will take up too much space on the land plot or it absolutely does not fit into the landscape picture of the territory. The conditions for its construction of a closed drainage system are similar to the prerequisites for organizing a network of open drainage ditches and ditches.

Closed drainage schemes are used to protect foundations and basements from the effects of groundwater and increase their service life. By analogy with open ones, they are used to drain suburban areas from excess groundwater.

It is imperative to organize underground drainage on the site if:

• it is located in a lowland, wetland area;
• there is a natural pond near the buildings;

Underground drainage can be divided into two types:

• wall drainage;
• trench (stratal) drainage.

Both types of underground drainage are carried out at the construction stage of the building. If it was decided to begin the problem of drainage after the construction of the house, then a trench ring system is used. There are also limitations to the use of trench drainage. It can be used if the house does not have a basement.

The fact is that, after filling the pit with sand or soil, it creates a looser environment between the bedrock and the foundation. As a result, high water penetrates into this environment and then even the presence of a clay castle does not protect the building from moisture.

Therefore, if the house has a basement floor, for effective drainage it is best to install wall drainage. It is used for drainage to drain groundwater directly from the foundation of a building, to protect basements, cellars, and ground floors from flooding.

Trees and shrubs should not be planted near the drain. The distance to the planted tree can be at least two meters and to the bush at least one meter

The wall one limits the rise in water level, preventing it from rising above the line where the drainage pipes are located - drains. It is believed that a drainage pipe 1 m long is capable of draining an area of ​​about 10-20 m2.

When installing wall drainage, the pipe is laid around the perimeter of the building. The depth of the drains cannot be lower than the base of the foundation slab or the base of the foundation. If the foundation is very deep, then laying the pipe slightly above its base is allowed (+)

The distance from the drainage pipe to the foundation depends on the location. They are laid in each corner (or through one corner) of the building, as well as in places where pipes turn and connect.

Inspection wells are also located in places where there is a large difference in the level of the site and when the pipes are long - the distance between the wells should be no more than 40 meters.

In an inspection well, the pipe cannot be solid; it breaks. This is done so that if the pipeline becomes clogged, it remains possible to flush it using a high-pressure hose

The entire system closes to the last well. It should be located in the lowest place. The water then flows into a regular sewer or open reservoir. If it is not possible to drain water from the house by gravity, then install pump equipment and it is forcibly pumped out.

To ensure gravity drainage of water, the pipes are laid to the side of the collecting manifold. The slope should be two centimeters per meter of drainage pipeline. The depth of the pipe must be greater than the freezing depth of the soil.

The pipe is covered with drainage material - gravel, small crushed stone or sand. The minimum layer that will ensure the flow of water into the drain is 0.2 m

To save on geocomposite materials and prevent them from mixing with the soil, geotextiles are used. It freely passes water to the drains and at the same time retains particles that lead to siltation. The pipe itself must also be wrapped in protective material before backfilling. Some drain models are produced with ready-made geotextile filters.

You can increase the efficiency of wall drainage using a profiled polymer membrane, which can be two- or three-layer. One of its layers is a polyethylene film with formed protrusions, the second layer of the membrane is geotextile fabric.

The three-layer membrane is equipped with an additional layer of smooth polyethylene film. The membrane helps filter water from the soil while also serving as a waterproofing layer for the building's foundation.

Closed trench-type drainage protects the structure from flooding and moisture. It is a filter layer that is poured into a trench at a distance of 1.5-3 m from the wall of the house.

It is better that the depth of the drain be 0.5 m deeper than the base of the foundation - this way the water will not exert pressure on it from below. Between the trench with drainage and the foundation of the house there remains a layer of clay soil, which serves as a so-called clay castle.

As with the installation of a wall drainage system, drains are laid on a layer of gravel or small crushed stone. Both the pipes and the gravel layer are protected from clogging by geotextiles.

#4: Construction of wall drainage step by step

In order to get a clear idea of ​​the process of installing drainage around country house, let's look at an example. The area shown in it required the installation of a groundwater drainage system, because Under the soil-vegetative layer lie loams and sandy loams, which are extremely poorly permeable to water due to their low filtration capacity.

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To install drainage, we develop a trench around the house. Since the work was carried out with a mini-excavator, we retreated 1.2 m from the walls so as not to damage the building. If you save manually, you can do it closer. The bottom of the excavation is 20-30 cm below the foundation

The branches of the trench formed around the house must have a slope towards the common trench intended for the pipe for draining collected water to the collector well

Cover the bottom of the trench with sand. We compact it and form a slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter. We direct the slope towards the common trench, the bottom of which is also filled and tamped. In the case of communications crossing the trench, take into account that the drainage pipes must pass below them

We prepare drains, perforated polymer pipes, for installation in the trench. We wrap them in geotextile, which will prevent clogging of the system and filter groundwater

We cover the compacted bottom of the trench with a second layer of geotextile, pour gravel on it and lay drains

We lay channels for draining water from storm sewers and the drainage system in one trench. It is permissible to divert the water collected from them into one collector and use common inspection wells

Having wrapped the gravel backfill together with the drainage pipe with a second layer of geotectile, we fill the trench with quarry sand. We do not use the soil dumped during the development of the trench; sand will better allow water to pass through for collection by drainage

The problem of flooding and increased soil moisture is familiar to owners of plots located in the central region of Russia. Dampness and stagnation of water after snow melts do not allow proper preparation of the summer cottage for the summer season, and waterlogging of the soil with constant precipitation is detrimental to many plants. There are several ways to solve these problems, but the most effective is the arrangement of drainage.

In what cases is a drainage system necessary?

Drainage is a technology for collecting and discharging soil, thawed and storm water from the site, technical and residential buildings. The drainage system prevents leaching, heaving and waterlogging of the soil, which occurs due to oversaturation with moisture.

Arrangement of a drainage system is not necessary at every site. In order to determine how much your area needs drainage, you will need to conduct a visual inspection. Pay attention to whether the area is flooded after the snow melts, how quickly water is absorbed after watering the plants, whether there are puddles after heavy rain and downpour. If you have observed these signs more than once, then drainage is required.

The drainage system helps remove stagnant water from the site

If visual confirmation is not enough, then you can conduct a simple experiment - using a hand drill or an ordinary shovel, you should dig a hole 70–100 cm deep. It is better to do this in several places on the site. If after 24–36 hours water accumulates at the bottom of the hole and does not leave, then this is direct evidence of oversaturation of the soil with moisture.

Soil drainage is carried out under the following conditions:

• high groundwater table;
• the site is located in an area with clay soil;
• the site is located in a lowland or vice versa - on a slope;
• The location of the site receives a large amount of precipitation.

The presence of drainage helps preserve finishing and facing materials, used for laying garden paths, finishing the basement and facade of the building.

Types of dehumidification systems

There are a great variety of land drainage systems. Moreover, in different sources their classification may differ greatly from each other. In the case of drainage systems for suburban and summer cottages, it is recommended to use the simplest and most proven solutions.

Surface type drainage

Surface drainage is the simplest and most efficient system. The main task is to drain the soil by draining water formed as a result of rainfall and uneven melting of snow.

Grids protect the open drainage system from large debris

A surface drainage system is constructed across the area of ​​the site, around the house and adjacent buildings, near garage structures, warehouses and courtyard. Surface drainage is divided into two subtypes:

1. Point - in some sources referred to as local drainage. Used to collect and drain water from specific place Location on. The main area of ​​application is drainage of areas under drains, approx. entrance doors and gates, in the area where containers and watering taps are located. Often used as an emergency system if another type of drainage is overloaded.
2. Linear - used to drain the entire area. It is a system consisting of receiving trays and channels arranged at a certain angle, ensuring a constant flow of water. The drainage system is equipped with filter grids and sand traps. Trays and drains are made of PVC, polypropylene, HDPE or polymer concrete.

When installing surface system For drainage, it is recommended to combine point and linear drainage. This will provide the most effective work systems. If necessary, point and linear drainage can be combined with the system described below.

Deep drainage

Deep drainage is carried out in the form of a pipeline laid in places where constant drainage of the soil or lowering of the groundwater level is necessary. Drains are laid with a slope in the direction of water flow, which enters a collector, well or reservoir located outside the site.

The process of constructing deep drainage in a suburban area

To lower the groundwater level, pipes are laid along the perimeter of the site to a depth of 80–150 cm. In cases where it is necessary to drain water from the foundation of a building, pipes must be laid below its depth. And also drainage pipes can be laid over the entire area of ​​the site with a certain pitch. The distance between drains depends on the depth of their placement and the mechanical composition of the soil.

For example, when installing a drainage system, when drains are laid to a depth of 0.9–1 m, the recommended distance between them is at least 9–11 m. On loamy soil under the same conditions, the step between drains is reduced to 7–9 m, and on clayey up to 4–5.5 m. More detailed data for different laying depths can be seen in the table below. Information taken from the book “Draining land for gardens” by A.M. Dumblyauskas.

Depth of drains, m	Distance between drains, m
	Sandy soil	Loamy soil	Clay soil
0,45	4,5–5,5	4–5	2–3
0,6	6,5–7,5	5–6,5	3–4
0,9	9–11	7–9	4–5,5
1,2	12–15	10–12	4,5–7
1,5	15,5–18	12–15	6,5–9
1,8	18–22	15–18	7–11

When laying the pipe, the features of the terrain are observed. According to the technology, drains are laid from the highest to the lowest point on the site. If the area is relatively flat, then to impart a slope, a slope is formed along the bottom of the trench. The minimum slope level is 2 cm per 1 running meter of drainage pipe when constructing drainage in clay and loamy soil. For sandy soil, a slope of 3 cm per 1 meter is maintained.

When installing long drainage, a minimum slope along the entire length of the drainage route must be observed. For example, for a drainage system 15 m long, the minimum level difference between the starting and ending points of the route will be at least 30 cm.

If possible, it is recommended to exceed the stated slope standards. This will ensure faster drainage and reduce the risk of silting and clogging of the drain. In addition, digging a trench with a large slope is much easier than measuring 1–2 cm.

Drainage in a summer cottage - the simplest methods with instructions

In order to independently drain a plot of land using a drainage system, you will need to familiarize yourself with the technology of work, calculate and purchase the necessary materials, prepare tools and a place to perform the work.

Surface drainage of a summer cottage

Open surface drainage is universal solution for draining small dacha plots. For example, for typical plots of 6 acres. You can take the diagram below as a basis. It shows a herringbone-shaped drainage route. The distance between the drains, as stated above, is selected based on the type of soil (see table).

An example of the location of the drainage system in a summer cottage

To carry out the work you will need a shovel and bayonet shovel, tape measure, bubble level, hammer and sharp construction knife. The materials you will need to prepare are gravel of fraction 20–40, geotextiles, edged bars or boards 2–3 m long.

To construct surface drainage on a summer cottage, you will need to do the following:

Sometimes, the base of the trench is concreted along the entire length of the drainage route. This allows you not to worry that over time the earthen walls will begin to crumble, water flow will deteriorate, etc. But this approach is more labor-intensive and requires the ability to work with concrete mixture.

Draining the area using deep drainage

Deep drainage is standard solution for drainage of country and suburban areas. A deep drainage system can be installed even when there is a protective blind area, concrete or slab paths around the building. If necessary, they can be partially dismantled, but the overall structure will not be damaged.

An example of a drainage system project in a suburban area

Work on the construction of deep drainage includes the following:

1. According to the design plan of the site, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the location of the drainage pipes and determine the water discharge point, that is, the place from where the collected water will be drained into the sewer pipes leading to the drainage well. The depth of the pipeline must be below the freezing level of the soil. For the North-Western region this value is about 60–80 cm.

   Preparation of trenches for the construction of deep drainage

2. Taking into account the plan, a trench is dug along the perimeter and area of ​​the site with a depth of up to 1 m. The width of the trench is at least 30 cm. All horizontal sections trenches are combined into a single system, which is supplied to the water discharge point. After this, trenches are dug maintaining a slope of 2–4 cm per 1 m of surface. To check the quality of the drainage, the trenches are spilled with a large volume of water. If necessary, the slope towards the drainage well increases.

   The pit for the drainage well must be dug at the lowest point on the site

3. At the lowest point of the site, a place is created for the installation of a water intake or filter drainage well. For large areas located on loamy and clayey soil types, it is better to install storage type wells with a volume of up to 1000 liters. For small areas, you can use both storage and filter wells. The type of tank is selected based on the type of soil.

   A wide sheet of geotextile is laid on top of the gravel layer.

4. Fine gravel is poured into the bottom of the trench. The thickness of the layer is 10 cm. A geofabric is laid on the gravel with an overlap on the walls of the trench. To fix the canvas to the walls, wooden or plastic pegs are used, which are driven into the ground. After this, a 10 cm layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 50–60 is poured onto the laid geotextile and carefully leveled in compliance with the slope. A drainage pipe from Ø 110 mm is laid on the crushed stone.
5. Modular inspection wells are installed at the drain turning points. The diameter and height of the well depend on the expected volume waste water. To connect the pipe to the mounting hole, a coupling is used, which is coated with a waterproof sealant before joining. Similar actions are carried out to connect the drainage pipe to the well pipe.

   An inspection drainage well is installed in places where the drainage pipe turns

6. Before backfilling, the drainage system is checked for functionality. To do this, a large volume of water is drained through drains. If the water quickly drains and enters the well, then everything is done correctly and you can move on to the final stage. In other cases, you need to find and fix the problem.
7. A 20–30 cm layer of gravel of fraction 20–40 is poured over the drainage pipes and carefully leveled. After this, the drains with laid crushed stone are covered with geotextiles. A 10–15 cm layer of quarry sand is poured on top of the geofabric and thoroughly compacted. The remaining space in the trench can be filled with fertile soil or regular soil from the site.

Methods for drying an area without drainage

Excessive moisture in the soil and stagnation of water on the site are not always associated with high level groundwater. Sometimes this occurs due to abnormally low temperatures and heavy precipitation. The combination of these factors leads to the fact that moisture does not have time to evaporate, and puddles and mold form on the soil surface.

Sanding clay soil is one of the ways to drain an area without drainage

If, due to some circumstances, it is impossible to install a drainage system, then there are several effective ways to drain the land:

Of the above methods of draining a site, the most effective are adding a sufficient amount of fertile soil and constructing trenches around the perimeter. On average, 1 m 3 of soil will cost 550–600 rubles. For a plot of 6 acres, 10–12 m3 of soil is sufficient.

The easiest way to drain the soil on a site

Construction of shallow trenches filled with crushed stone is the most in a simple way drainage of a summer cottage. Despite its overall simplicity, this method is very effective and can cope with large amounts of water formed during snow melting.

Work on arrangement of trenches around the perimeter and area of ​​the site includes the following:

If desired, the second layer of crushed stone can be reduced, and the remaining space can be covered with soil from the site. This will hide the drainage under a layer of turf. It is not recommended to plant flowers and greenery on top of the drainage trench. This is fraught with their death due to the high humidity in this place.

How to clear a clogged drain pipe

Failure to comply with the technology for laying drainage pipes is the main reason for stagnation and poor drainage of water from distribution wells. In addition, very often stagnation of water is not associated with a blockage at all. Insufficient slope does not ensure constant and uniform drainage of accumulated water towards the drainage pit.

To clear small blockages, use a steel cable or a hose with strong water pressure.

The easiest way to unclog drain pipes is to use a steel cable drain cleaner. At one end of the cable there is a spiral-shaped nozzle, at the other there is a handle with which you can rotate the cable, creating a mechanical load at the site of the blockage.

To clean pipes Ø110 mm or more, it is recommended to use a cable with a steel brush of the appropriate size. During the cleaning process, it is necessary to lower the cable into drainage pipe until its end reaches the clog. Next, by rotating the cable clockwise, you need to try to break through the blockage or move it towards draining the water. Usually, small accumulations of silt and leaves can be pushed through without much difficulty.

If it was not possible to remove the blockage, then you will need to call specialists who, using a pneumatic installation and other equipment, will not only clear the blockage, but also carry out preventive cleaning of the entire surface of the drainage pipes.

Video: do-it-yourself site drainage

Oversaturation of the soil with moisture and stagnation of water on the site are big problem, which affects not only the growth of fruit-bearing crops, but also reduces the service life of a residential building. But it is worth remembering that excess water can be dealt with using a drainage system. It's much worse if fresh water and it will pick up moisture, and constructing a well is impossible due to certain circumstances.