Great way To save on chip removal is to make a homemade chip ejector for your workshop. Its cost today starts from about 9,000 rubles, so the savings are considerable. This is exactly the project that was proposed to us by the master from Dzerzhinsk Sergei Yurkevich.

It all started with the problem of equipping the thicknesser with chip removal, since the workshop is small and the sawdust underfoot is very unnerving, at first I did it, under which I even stole my mother-in-law’s last Soviet vacuum cleaner “Raketa”)) But not for long, it burned out. But its operating time was enough to draw a conclusion: this is not the best option for chip removal.

The idea and its implementation were found on YouTube. Namely, making a snail without a vacuum cleaner... I didn’t make any drawings, all the design work went right during the manufacturing process, approximately as the creators of the video said...

The first thing that was made was the disk fan itself. It was made from 9 mm plywood with a diameter of 300 mm.... The bottom circle is solid - with a hole for the spindle. In this place, it is advisable to stick on one or two more reinforcement circles so that the shaft does not dangle. Upper circle with hole for "suction"

It is easy to make such circles using, for example, milling table, there are techniques using a circular saw....

Then it was necessary to make the body; what was at hand was used. On a sheet old chipboard I twisted the box first, marking the location of the fan on it, inserted a curved fiberboard strip inside the box, covered the corners with foam rubber and the seams with PUR glue.. To prevent the fiberboard strip from unwinding, I reinforced it with wedges in the corners of the box.

There is practically no vibration during rotation; balancing was done by drilling recesses on the heavier side until the impeller began to easily stop in different places on its own weight...

At first, this drum was installed on a 500W 2800 rpm asynchronous motor. For normal operation, at least 3000 rpm is required. But the engine turned out to be rather weak, there was too much resistance... - it quickly overheated... I installed the engine from washing machine but even here it takes about 10 minutes of work and the heat protection cuts out, but this is already through a small shaft on bearings..

I placed an old aluminum barrel on the side that I found) I have to put the chips somewhere)) It’s like in factory chip suckers.. The bottom of the barrel was removed, and a hole was cut in the side for the exit from the snail. In this case, the air flow swirls along the wall, like a cyclone, depositing sawdust.

The resulting pipe is attached to the chip ejector body with a pair of bolts. A sawdust bag is attached to the bottom of this tank with a clamp, and a fabric filter bag is attached to the top.

Then I made the main cover for the snail, the entrance of the shavings was a pipe with a diameter of 80 mm (again, I borrowed it from my wife in the kitchen from all sorts of cereals))

During testing, the suction showed such power that it could easily hold the block.

Well, since there were problems with the engine, I gave up on everything and installed it with homemade machine 2.2 kilowatts through capacitors with a starting .. It became absolutely wonderful ..

It was necessary to put some kind of air filter on top, I asked everyone what kind of fabric was used for this, but I couldn’t find a clear answer. The solution was suggested by my mother-in-law! Pillowcase, I don’t know what the fabric is called, but it doesn’t allow dust to pass through.. That’s what it’s worth))

The chip ejector is currently used only on the Makita 2010NB thickness planer... We need to make a distributor for other equipment, but this is still in the project.

A distributor is needed not only to disperse the flow to several devices. When working with a surface thicknesser, 30 mm can become clogged with chips. Here is its schematic diagram.

The design, of course, turns out to be more cumbersome, but more universal.

Wood is a material created by nature. It is not surprising that environmentally friendly products are valued and in demand. During the processing process, wood is planed, drilled, and sanded with various power tools, which can scatter a bunch of sawdust around it. To prevent this from happening, carpentry workshops use a chip ejector - a device for purifying the air and collecting woodworking waste.

The hood is brought directly to the point of emission of chips and wood dust - a flexible corrugated hose is used for this. In carpentry workshops where such industrial vacuum cleaners are installed, you can be without personal respiratory protection and forget about the brush.

The design of a chip ejector usually includes the following basic elements:

• . Cyclone type separator;
• . Fine filter;
• . Motor with dust fan or impeller;
• . Container for collecting waste.

Design options and operating principle

The classic cyclone type chip ejector is a vertically mounted cylinder, smoothly tapered at the bottom. The vacuum created by the fan draws polluted air into the housing. Spinning and falling under the influence of centrifugal force, wood waste falls into the lower part of the cyclone chip suction machine, where a storage hopper is installed.

To collect dispersed dust suspension, a filter unit of bag filters is installed, capable of periodic regeneration by shaking.

Various models of chip ejectors are offered by Anchor. From the smallest - weighing only 8 kg, to professional installation weighing 76 kg, allowing you to simultaneously connect four air ducts.

In addition to the main operating mode, it is possible to collect chips from the floor. Anchor chip ejectors are produced under the Corvette brand and are distinguished by the numbers added to the name. They are equipped with two types of bags - filtering and dust collection.

“Jet” is a brand under which a line of chip ejectors similar to the “Corvette” is produced. Often, the consumer has to make a choice between these two suppliers. According to some of them, “Jet” chip ejectors are distinguished only by color and more. high price, but experts note a longer service life of this brand.

When paying attention to the design, we must not forget about the main functional characteristics: flow power and performance.

Admirers of German quality can pay attention to chip ejectors from Metabo. The company, founded in 1924, is a leader in introducing new technologies and materials into production. Thus, some design elements of Metabo chip ejectors are made using ABS plastic: volute body, fan, impeller. This made it possible to reduce the weight of the device, and most importantly, to reduce the noise level at the highest possible engine speeds.

Installation and installation methods

Depending on the volume of work, devices of different power and sizes are used. In modest home workshops, craftsmen are able to build a chip extractor with their own hands and place it in close proximity to the workplace. Carpentry shop, constantly loaded with orders, needs a more serious cleaning system. In such cases great solution The problem will be the acquisition and installation of a UVP chip ejector.

When a utility room is used to house the unit, the connection to the woodworking equipment is provided by additional air ducts. This is an ideal arrangement to reduce the noise level from the chip suction machine operating simultaneously with the machines. Many compact devices are mounted on a platform with wheels, and, if necessary, can be easily moved.

Review of budget options

If wood products are just a hobby, then a do-it-yourself cyclone-type chip extractor will be sufficient for a home workshop. For this you will need:

• . Vacuum cleaner with a power of 1.5 - 2 kW;
• . Plastic barrel 65 l;
• . Sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 and 110 mm;
• . Transitional cuffs from the pipe to the vacuum cleaner hose;
• . Hose for chip removal;
• . Silicone sealant and the necessary fasteners.

Having a vacuum cleaner at your disposal, the main thing is to understand the principle of operation of the cyclone, then there will be no difficulties in making a chip ejector.

Another possible way A serious way to save money is to look for used chip ejectors. The secondary market for such devices is quite extensive. Reviews and recommendations from experienced woodworkers will certainly help you make right choice chip suction Used devices are sold at various reasons:

• . There was a need for a more powerful unit;
• . The chip ejector was purchased for a certain amount of work, and there was no longer a need for it;
• . Needed minor repairs devices, but I already want a new model.
• . When changing workshops or moving production, it is sometimes necessary to purchase new equipment.

Due to the simplicity of the design of industrial vacuum cleaners, their maintainability is high, and the body itself, the volute, and various pipes are difficult to damage. If you are satisfied with the price of the chip ejector, then the main attention should be paid to the operation of the engine, the safety of the fan blades and impeller. During the test run there should be no extraneous noise or odors from overheating of the motor.

Having purchased a previously used chip ejector, you must carefully check the functionality of its important components and parts. If necessary, carry out repairs, cleaning and painting. In the future, costs may only be associated with periodic replacement of filter bags for chip removal.

Planning self-production chip extractor, to maximize money savings, you should first consider a solution based on a conventional household vacuum cleaner.

The vacuum cleaner itself is useless for use as a chip extractor because it has a small storage volume. It is this problem that needs to be solved with the help of a reservoir for chips and dust, as well as a cyclone element.

A homemade chip pump should have three main parts:

1. The drive, in our case, is a vacuum cleaner
2. Chip reservoir
3. Cyclone element

The principle of operation of a homemade chip pump

The draft of the vacuum cleaner creates a vacuum of air in the cyclone container; due to the difference in pressure outside and inside our chip ejector, chips and dust are sucked into inner part cyclone element. Inside the cyclone there are forces of inertia and gravity under the influence of which the heavy fraction of waste is separated from the air flow and falls down.

What you need for a homemade chip sucker

Good for storage tank plastic container, for example, a 65 liter barrel for about 1000 rubles

A cyclone element can be made from sewer pipes, for example like this

A structure made of plumbing pipes is attached to the lid of the barrel. The construction of pipes, bends (couplings) with cuffs will also not exceed 1000 rubles.

Additionally you will need:

• nuts, screws, washers for fixing the inlet pipe
• gun with assembly glue.

How to assemble a homemade chip pump

When everything is purchased, you can begin to assemble the structure of the chip ejector.

1. Make a hole for the inlet pipe in the side of the plumbing pipe, which should be placed tangentially to the body. It should be installed at the top of the cyclone element to obtain highest degree cleaning. Be sure to fill the gaps between the pipe and the pipe wall with mounting sealant. Fig.3
2. Make a hole for the outlet pipe in the pipe cover. Fig.3
3. Assemble the cyclone part as in Fig.4

The hose can be used from a vacuum cleaner, preferably with a built-in metal conductor for grounding.

You can use any vacuum cleaner, the more powerful the better.

The productivity of such a homemade chip ejector will not be high, for a maximum of one machine, but the money savings will be very significant!

For mobility, you can build a wheeled support from a piece of thick plywood and furniture wheels, install our homemade chip extractor on it and easily roll it around the workshop.

If you need a professional inexpensive one, consider purchasing this reliable and simple chip ejector from a proven Russian manufacturer CJSC "Konsar".

In the woodworking industry, the dust and chip removal system is an invariable component of the overall technical equipment workshops and therefore must be calculated, designed and installed in accordance with a number of established rules.

Why is a dust extraction system so important?

Joinery processing is always associated with abundant formation of by-products. It would not be an exaggeration to call the amount of dust and shavings released mind-blowing, because dust suspension in woodworking workshops is a real scourge that both home and professional craftsmen overcome with varying degrees of success.

But what exactly is the need and complexity of wood waste disposal? They are represented by a combination of a number of factors, each of which requires solving quite specific problems:

• Problem No. 1: low weight of waste products. Unlike the metalworking industry and even work with polymer materials wood shavings and dust are very light, they settle slowly under the influence of gravity, and the particles bond extremely poorly with each other due to static electricity.
• Problem #2: Complexity technological process. Even in a modest carpentry workshop there is an impressive list of processing equipment: planers, surface planers, sawing machines, milling and grinding machines - each technological unit serves as a source of chips and dust. With such diversity, it is extremely difficult to organize an aspiration system.
• Problem No. 3: high diversity of waste fractions. During the processing process, chips, large and small shavings, sawdust, dust and powder may be formed. It is difficult to imagine a single filtration system, at each stage of which particles of a certain size are retained, while the creation of a universal filter seems an even less likely prospect.
• Problem No. 4: impact on processing quality. Both chips and microscopic dust can build up on cutting edges or adhere to the surface of the workpiece. All this negatively affects the cleanliness of the surface, and also increases the likelihood of contamination of the functional components of the equipment.
• Problem #5: Processing by-product hazards. This is not at all about the fact that a colossal amount of dust settles on tools and materials or harms the respiratory system. And not even that the abundance of flammable particles is a negative factor fire safety. Explosions in woodworking workshops are truly catastrophic, because a suspension of finely dispersed flammable particles in the air is nothing more than an aerosol-type explosive, similar in destructiveness to a gas-air mixture. No joke.

The conclusion from the above is this: any facility in the woodworking industry must be equipped with a dust and chip removal system, and it is desirable that the implementation of such a system be carried out at a professional level.

General configuration

In general, two types of aspiration systems can be distinguished. The first is local filter complexes, which are equipped with each unit of installed processing equipment. The advantages of local installations are most obvious when equipment is located at a significant distance on spacious sites. There is no need to lay main channels, there is no need to organize an air pump unit increased power. At the same time, there is an obvious benefit in energy saving, because the local filtering unit works only when the certain part equipment.

Centralized chip and dust removal systems are also not without their advantages. They are most advantageous to use in cramped workshops, where space is limited and the equipment layout is as compact as possible. Each unit of processing equipment is connected to a main exhaust system, which operates almost all the time the workshop is open, at least if at least one of the machines is in use. Advantages centralized systems aspirations are most obvious when production is highly loaded, but this approach requires high-quality organization of the technological process. It is worth noting that a general system for removing woodworking by-products requires less investment during organization, but entails more significant costs during use.

At the same time, the organization of hybrid systems is not prohibited. Let's say the most involved parts of the complex, such as circular saw, surface planer, milling machine and others like them can be combined with a common dust removal system. At the same time, machines used from time to time, for example, a grinder or drum grinder, have their own local filtration units. The key rule is this: the issue of organizing a system for removing chips and dust should be placed at the forefront when creating a closed woodworking workshop and carefully thought out before the final decision on the placement of equipment and approval of the technological cycle.

Which air pump to choose

The heart of the entire aspiration system is the air pump. Regardless of whether the system is local or centralized, its effectiveness depends entirely on the performance of this node. You can offer several options: an industrial vacuum cleaner, one or more ducted blade fans, or one centrifugal one.

In home workshops, vacuum cleaners are most often used as the central unit of the aspiration system. This is explained quite simply: firstly, the performance of such equipment is often quite sufficient, and secondly, the vacuum cleaner itself can be used to clean the workshop, or quick cleaning workplace and tools. For such purposes, both industrial (construction) vacuum cleaners and household electrical appliances with a power of over 2-2.5 kW can be successfully used. It should be noted that there is a big difference between a vacuum cleaner and a chip extractor, but we will touch on this topic in more detail a little later.

Another type of aspiration system involves the use duct fans high power. In essence, this option represents an attempt to adapt equipment for uncharacteristic purposes; however, such projects have the right to life and, moreover, are successfully used in home and small production workshops. It must be remembered that ducted blade fans are extremely vulnerable to the presence of solid particles in the pumped air flow, so they are always installed at the end of the cleaning cycle, in other words, such an air pump pumps already purified air, despite the fact that all elements of the system operate in vacuum mode, but not pumping.

It is better to talk about the key parameters of the pump unit in the context of comparing modern vacuum cleaners and chip extractors. There are three such parameters: power consumption, the volume of air moved, or simply productivity, and the vacuum created. Without going into technical details, a vacuum cleaner is more designed to lift particles from the surface, while a chip ejector is focused on capturing airborne particles emitted from under a working tool, be it a cutter, saw blade or sanding belt. Among other advantages of the chip ejector, it is necessary to highlight the presence of a collection bag of impressive volume, as well as the undemanding nature of the system as a part of the separation unit, that is, a cyclone separator. At the same time centrifugal fans, which are used in the vast majority of chip ejectors, greatly lose performance if the pipeline system has a narrowed cross-section. Vacuum cleaners included common system aspirations require plugging the terminals on equipment that is not currently in use. Therefore, systems based on vacuum cleaners are best used in conjunction with hand tools or, for example, grinding machines, where the gripping area should be located as close as possible to the processing zone for maximum effective removal fine dust, which poses the greatest danger. In turn, centrifugal fans are especially useful due to the ability to pump air even with a high content of coarse particles, because the “snail” motor is located outside the flow.

Pipeline steel and flexible channels

Both centralized and local aspiration systems require connecting pipelines, through which waste is moved from the capture zone to the filter unit. The list of materials suitable for constructing a pipeline system is very wide.

Initially, flexible ventilation ducts. They consist of a polyethylene or polyurethane shell reinforced with a spiral reinforcing cord. Flexible pipelines have become so widespread due to their ease of installation, low cost, lack of need to use rotary fittings and the ability to quickly change the system configuration. One of the most important advantages flexible channels ensure smooth rotation of the stave, which reduces the overall aerodynamic drag.

However, flexible piping is not without its drawbacks. We must not forget that there is a fairly strong vacuum inside the channel, especially if the system is connected to a powerful air pump. If most of the findings suction system is plugged, the pipeline may simply collapse; such cases are by no means rare. Also due to the small mechanical strength Ducts are not recommended to be laid on the floor or in areas where they could potentially be damaged. The most budget-friendly representatives of corrugated hoses have an internal ribbed surface, which is why when the aspiration system is operating, the pipeline begins to whistle quite noticeably, while the resistance to air flow increases. They are also very prone to dust sticking to the walls due to the accumulation of static charge.

The advantages and disadvantages of rigid pipelines are exactly the opposite. Yes, in this case it is required reliable system There will be more fastenings and connections, however, due to the smooth internal surface of the pipes, there will be no blockages, sticking of wet chips and a decrease in flow rate. It is necessary, however, to remember that in terms of cost, a rigid steel will be significantly more expensive than a flexible one, and besides, the equipment connected to the aspiration system will remain immobilized. In view of the latter, a combination of rigid and flexible pipelines is often practiced: a dust removal system line is laid along the ceiling from metal or PVC channels of round or square cross-section, and then using special branch pipes shaped products a transition is being made to corrugated hoses for connecting equipment.

Filtration systems

The most important functional element of the aspiration system after air pump— unit for filtration, absorption and disposal of processing by-products. In this regard, there are quite a large number of variations, but only a few are suitable for home workshops.

First and most important element— separation filter, otherwise called a cyclone. Its main purpose is to separate the largest fragments, such as shavings and wood chips, so that only a suspension of small particles enters the further cleaning cycle. The design of the cyclone filter is primitive, which is why many craftsmen make it themselves, however, the purchased version provides additional advantages. For example, thanks to a distributed supply, more efficient particle deposition is achieved, and some models provide the possibility of wet absorption, which reduces the amount of fine dust at the outlet.

Sometimes aspiration systems do not have a filter element other than a cyclone filter. For example, if air is discharged outdoors, a fine filtration system is simply not required. This approach is not always reasonable: in winter time when working exhaust system with a powerful air pump, heat is released from the room almost instantly, which forces the installation of fine filters. In the simplest case, these are ordinary collection bags that retain the bulk of fine dust; this option is most typical for local installations. Top quality Air purification is characterized by dust removal systems, the main unit of which is a vacuum cleaner with two or more cleaning stages. Mainline vacuum cleaners can also be equipped with a wide range of cleaning elements, although paper bags and pleated air filters similar to automobile ones are most often used.

Catchers and other components

In conclusion, it is worth talking about the elements that are given smallest value, although their importance cannot be overestimated. We are talking about all kinds of bells, receiving funnels and casings, as well as the appropriateness of their use with this or that type of equipment.

As already mentioned, when working on grinding machines An impressive amount of microscopic dust is formed. When connecting an aspiration system to such equipment, the main emphasis is on capturing the smallest particles, while large chips can freely fall to the floor and then be collected manually or a vacuum cleaner. If you use receiving funnels in such cases, air flow from the working body itself will create turbulence and the capture of fine dust will become possible only if the suction is strong enough. The most reasonable thing to do would be to eliminate the suction bell and place the suction pipe in close proximity to the treatment area.

But where sockets are really needed is in milling, turning and sawing machines, as well as on planing equipment. Here the main emphasis is on drawing in large chips and sawdust, so the best option will equip work area a receiving casing that follows the shape of the working body as accurately as possible and fits as tightly as possible to the stationary surfaces. Please note that the optimal total cross-section of the gap on all sides of the casing should be 1.5-2 times larger than the nominal diameter of the channel through which the machine is connected to the dust removal system. For large values, it is recommended to use sealing brushes, this is especially important for milling equipment.

Article about how I did it homemade construction vacuum cleaner with a cyclone type filter. The performance of this useful homemade product for home You can appreciate it by watching a video of his work.

To demonstrate the work, I collected a bucket of sand. In general, I am satisfied with the result of the work done (considering that this is a working prototype layout, so to speak).

I’ll say right away: this article is a statement of my history of creating my first (and, I think, not the last) homemade cyclone vacuum cleaner, and I am in no way going to impose anything on anyone, prove or claim that the solutions described here are the only correct and error-free ones. Therefore, I ask you to be understanding, so to speak, “understand and forgive.” I hope my little experience will be useful to “sick” people like me, for whom “a bad head does not give rest to their hands” (in the good sense of this expression).

I once thought about the upcoming renovation and the ensuing consequences in the form of dust, construction debris, etc. And since it is necessary to groove, saw concrete and “perforate”, the experience of the past suggested that it is necessary to look for a solution to these problems. It is expensive to buy a ready-made construction vacuum cleaner, and most of them are designed anyway with a filter (in some models even with a special “shaker”) or a paper bag + filter, which gets clogged, worsens traction, periodically requires replacement and also costs a lot of money. And I just became interested in this topic, and a “pure sporting interest” appeared, so to speak. In general, it was decided to make a cyclone vacuum cleaner. A lot of information was gleaned here: forum.woodtools.ru I did not carry out special calculations (for example, according to Bill Pentz), I did it from what came to hand and according to my own instinct. By chance, I came across this vacuum cleaner on an advertisement website (for 1,100 rubles) and very close to my place of residence. I looked at the parameters, they seem to suit me - he will be a donor!

I decided to make the cyclone body itself metal, because there were strong doubts about how long the plastic walls would last under the influence of “sandpaper” from a stream of sand and pieces of concrete. And also about static electricity when rubbish rubs against its walls, and I didn’t want the future homemade vacuum cleaner threw sparks at its users. And personally, I think that dust accumulation due to static will not have a positive effect on the operation of the cyclone.

The general scheme for constructing a vacuum cleaner is as follows:

The polluted air passes through a cyclone, in which large particles settle into the lower waste container. The rest goes through the car air filter, the engine and through the outlet pipe to the outside. It was decided to make a pipe for the outlet as well, and the dimensions of the inlet and outlet should be the same. This will allow you to use a vacuum cleaner, for example, to blow something off. You can also use an additional hose to release the “exhaust” air outside so as not to raise dust in the room (this suggests the idea of ​​installing this unit as a “built-in” stationary vacuum cleaner somewhere in the basement or on the balcony). Using two hoses at the same time, you can clean all kinds of filters without blowing dust around (blow with one hose, draw in with the other).

The air filter was chosen to be “flat” and not ring-shaped, so that when turned off, any debris that got there would fall into the garbage bin. If we take into account that only the dust remaining after the cyclone gets into the filter, then it will not be necessary to replace it soon, as in a regular construction vacuum cleaner with a filter without a cyclone. Moreover, the price of such a filter (about 130 rubles) is much cheaper than the “branded” ones that are used in industrial vacuum cleaners. You can also partially clean such a filter with a regular household vacuum cleaner by connecting it to the inlet pipe of the “cyclone”. In this case, garbage will not be sucked out of the garbage disposal. The filter mount is made dismountable to simplify its cleaning and replacement.

For the cyclone body, a suitable one was found very conveniently can, and the central pipe is made from a can of polyurethane foam.

The inlet pipe is made with plastic sewer pipe 50 mm into which the hose included in the vacuum cleaner is inserted quite tightly with an appropriate rubber coupling.

The second end of the pipe goes into a rectangle, so to speak, to “straighten” the flow. Its width was chosen based on the smallest diameter of the hose inlet (32 mm) so as not to clog. Approximate calculation: L= (3.14*50 mm - 2*32)/2=46.5 mm. Those. pipe cross-section 32*46 mm.

I assembled the entire structure by soldering with acid and a 100-watt soldering iron (it was practically the first time I worked with tin, except for soldering boats in childhood, so I apologize for the beauty of the seams)

The central pipe was soldered. The cone was made using a pre-fitted cardboard template.

The housing for the auto filter is also made using galvanized templates.

The upper part of the central pipe of the air duct was bent into the shape of a square and the lower hole of the body (pyramid) of the auto filter was fitted under it. Put it all together. I made three guides on the sides of the cyclone can to increase rigidity and fastening. The result is something like this “gravity”.

For the garbage disposal and the engine compartment I used 2 barrels of machine oil (60 liters). A little big, of course, but this is what we managed to find. I made holes in the bottom of the engine compartment for attaching the cyclone, and glued sponge rubber onto the contact surface of the garbage disposal to seal around the perimeter. After that, I cut a hole in the sidewall for the inlet pipe, taking into account the thickness of the rubber cuff.

The gravitational cyclone was secured with M10 studs and fluoroplastic nuts to prevent unscrewing due to vibration. Here and further, all places where tightness is necessary were connected with a rubber seal (or rubber washers) and auto sealant.

To connect the engine compartment and the garbage bin, I used latches from military wooden boxes (special thanks to Igor Sanych!). I had to ferment them a little in a solvent and “adjust” them with a hammer. Fastened with rivets (with rubber gaskets from the camera).

After that, for greater rigidity and noise reduction, I foamed the entire structure with polyurethane foam. You can, of course, fill everything to the top, but I decided to play it safe in case the need arises to take it apart. In addition, everything turned out quite tough and strong.

For ease of movement and carrying of the garbage bin, I attached 2 door handles and 4 wheels with brakes. Since the waste container barrel has a flange at the bottom, to install the wheels it was necessary to make an additional “bottom” from a plastic sheet 10 mm thick. In addition, this made it possible to strengthen the bottom of the barrel so that it would not “squish” when the vacuum cleaner was running.

The base for attaching the filter funnel and the engine platform was made of chipboard with fastening to the barrel along the perimeter with furniture “Euro-screws”. To fix the engine platform, I glued 8 M10 bolts onto epoxy (I think 4 would be enough). Painted it. I sealed the perimeter of the filter installation site with sponge rubber.

When assembling, I coated the neck of the autofilter housing around the perimeter with sealant and tightened it to the base with flat-headed self-tapping screws.

The engine platform was made from 21 mm plywood. For a more uniform distribution of air over the filter area, I used a router to select a 7 mm recess in the area.

To collect the exhaust air and mount the engine, the plastic engine compartment found in the vacuum cleaner was used. “Everything unnecessary” was cut off from it and the outlet pipe was glued onto epoxy reinforced with self-tapping screws. Everything is assembled together using sealant and using metal profile(thick sponge rubber is inserted into it) is pulled to the engine platform with two long M12 bolts. Their heads are recessed flush into the platform and filled with hot-melt adhesive for tightness. Nuts with fluoroplastic to prevent unscrewing due to vibration.

Thus, a removable motor module was obtained. For easy access to the auto filter, it is secured using eight wing nuts. The oversized washers are glued (the shrouds have not escaped).

I made a hole for the outlet pipe.

I painted the entire “pepelats” black from a spray can, after sanding and degreasing.

The engine speed controller used the existing one (see photo), adding to it homemade circuit to automatically start the vacuum cleaner when you turn on the power tool.

Explanations for the homemade vacuum cleaner diagram:

Automatic devices (2-pole) QF1 and QF2 protect, respectively, the circuits for connecting power tools (socket XS1) and the speed control circuit of the vacuum cleaner engine. When the tool is turned on, its load current flows through diodes VD2-VD4 and VD5. They were selected from the reference book due to the large voltage drop across them with forward current. On a chain of three diodes, when one (let’s call it “positive”) half-wave of current flows, a pulsating voltage drop is created which, through fuse FU1, Schottky diode VD1 and resistor R2, charges capacitor C1. Fuse FU1 and varistor RU1 (16 Volt) protect the control circuit from damage due to overvoltage, which can occur, for example, due to a break (burnout) in the chain of diodes VD2-VD4. The Schottky diode VD1 is selected with a low voltage drop (to “save” the already small Volts) and prevents the discharge of capacitor C1 during the “negative” half-wave of the current through the diode VD5. Resistor R2 limits the charging current of capacitor C1. The voltage received at C1 opens optocoupler DA1, the thyristor of which is connected to the control circuit of the engine speed controller. The variable resistor R4 for regulating the motor speed is selected with the same value as in the vacuum cleaner controller board (it is removed) and is made remote (in the housing from the dimmer) for placement on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner. A resistor R removed from the board is soldered in parallel to it. The “on/off” switch S2 in the open circuit of the resistor R4 is used to manually turn on the vacuum cleaner. Switch S1 “automatic/manual”. In manual control mode, S1 is turned on and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) - S2 is turned on - S1. In automatic mode, S1 is turned off and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) – pins 6-4 DA1. After turning off the power tool, due to the large capacity of capacitor C1 and the inertia of the motor, the vacuum cleaner continues to work for about 3-5 seconds. This time is enough to draw the remaining debris from the hose into the vacuum cleaner.

The automatic start circuit is assembled on breadboard. Switches S1, S2, dimmer housing (to accommodate variable resistor R4) and socket XS1 were selected from one not very expensive series, so to speak, for aesthetics. All elements are placed on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner, made of 16 mm chipboard and covered with PVC edging. In the future, it will be necessary to make insulated housings for the boards to protect live parts from accidental contact.

To power the vacuum cleaner, a three-core flexible cable in rubber insulation KG 3*2.5 (5 meters) and a plug with a grounding contact were selected (do not forget about electrical safety and fight static electricity). Considering the short-term intermittent operation of the vacuum cleaner together with a power tool, the selected cable cross-section is sufficient not to heat up. A thicker cable (for example, KG 3*4) is correspondingly heavier and rougher, which would create inconvenience when using a vacuum cleaner. It was decided to discard the device for winding the cable, which was in the donor vacuum cleaner, since the contacts existing there would not withstand the total load of the vacuum cleaner and power tool.

The top cover is secured with a pin and wing nut.

To make it easier to remove the top cover, the motor is connected to the control circuit via a connector. The motor housing and the vacuum cleaner are connected to a protective grounding conductor. To cool the regulator circuit, I drilled a small hole in the outlet pipe to create an air flow inside the engine compartment housing.

In order to be able to insert a garbage bag into the garbage bin, the top edge was covered with a rubber door seal cut lengthwise.

To prevent the garbage bag from being sucked into the cyclone due to air leaks through leaks, it is necessary to make a small hole in it.

The finalization and testing of the resulting vacuum cleaner took place when the repairs had already begun, so to speak, in “combat” conditions. The traction, of course, is many times more powerful than that of a household vacuum cleaner, which would not be enough for even a couple of minutes of working with construction waste. Relatively heavy concrete debris is almost completely deposited in the waste bin and additional filter does not require cleaning for a long time, while the draft is uniform and does not depend on the degree of filling of the garbage bin. Dust from putty (in the form of flour) is very light and, accordingly, is less easily filtered by the cyclone, which forces you to periodically clean the autofilter. The task of making a vacuum cleaner was not set and therefore no test was carried out for this function.

CONCLUSION and CONCLUSIONS:

The resulting device eventually turned out to be functional and has already been tested during the renovation of one room. Now I consider it more like a working model from the “will it work or not for fun” series.

The main disadvantages of this design:

— relatively large dimensions are not convenient for transportation in a car, although the vacuum cleaner moves around the room very easily on wheels. You can use 30 liter barrels for example. As operation has shown, such a large garbage container is inconvenient to clean, and a bag with a large amount of garbage can tear.

- the diameter of the hose can be increased, for example, to 50 mm and a hose from an industrial vacuum cleaner can be used (but the question of price arises from 2000 rubles). Although even with the existing hose, the debris collects quite quickly, unless, of course, you try to pull in half a brick.

— it is necessary to make an easily removable mount for the additional auto filter and engine for more convenient and quick maintenance and cleaning.

— you can include a thermal relay in the control circuit (just determine the response temperature) to protect the engine from overheating.

Poor screening of light fine dust, which can be solved by introducing a second stage of smaller cyclones.

In conclusion, I would like to thank all my friends who helped with ideas and materials in the construction of this “pepelats”. And separate Thanks a lot my beloved wife Yulia for supporting me in my hobbies.

I hope my little experience will be useful to readers.