It’s hard to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and common operation is precisely longitudinal sawing blanks How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.
Introduction
The machine consists of three main structural elements:
- base;
- sawing table;
- parallel stop.
The base and the sawing table itself are not very complicated structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element - the parallel stop.
So, the rip fence is a moving part of the machine, which is a guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly from rip fence The quality of the cut depends on the fact that if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw blade may become jammed.
In addition, the parallel stop of a circular saw must be of a rather rigid structure, since the master makes efforts by pressing the workpiece against the stop, and if the stop is displaced, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.
There are various designs parallel stops depending on the methods of its attachment to circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.
| Rip fence design | Advantages and disadvantages |
| Two-point mounting (front and rear) | Advantages:· Quite rigid design, · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); Does not require the massiveness of the guide itself Flaw:· To fasten it, the master needs to clamp one end in front of the machine, and also go around the machine and secure the opposite end of the stop. This is very inconvenient when selecting the required position of the stop and with frequent readjustment it is a significant drawback. |
| Single point mounting (front) | Advantages:· Less rigid design than when attaching the stop at two points, · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); · To change the position of the stop, it is enough to fix it on one side of the machine, where the master is located during the sawing process. Flaw:· The design of the stop must be massive to ensure the necessary rigidity of the structure. |
| Fastening in the groove of a circular table | Advantages:· Fast changeover. Flaw:· Complexity of the design, · Weakening of the design of the circular table, · Fixed position from the line of the saw blade, · Quite a complex design for self-made, especially made of wood (made only of metal). |
In this article we will examine the option of creating a parallel stop design for a circular saw with one attachment point.
Preparing for work
Before you begin, you need to decide on the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed during the work process.
The following tools will be used for work:
- Circular saw or you can use.
- Screwdriver.
- Grinder (Angle grinder).
- Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.
During the work you will also need the following materials:
- Plywood.
- Solid pine.
- Steel tube with internal diameter 6-10 mm.
- Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
- Two washers with an increased area and an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
- Self-tapping screws.
- Wood glue.
Design of a circular saw stop
The entire structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning - relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is complex design, which includes a set of parts.
The pressing force is large enough to ensure the strength of the structure and securely fix the entire rip fence.
From a different angle.
The general composition of all parts is as follows:
- The base of the transverse part;
- Longitudinal part
- , 2 pcs.);
- The base of the longitudinal part;
- Clamp
- Eccentric handle
Making a circular saw
Preparation of blanks
A couple of points to note:
- Planar longitudinal elements are made from, and not from solid pine, like other parts.
We drill a 22 mm hole in the end for the handle.
It is better to do this by drilling, but you can also simply hammer it with a nail.
The circular saw used for work uses a homemade movable carriage made of (or, as an option, you can whip up a false table), which is not too bad to be deformed or damaged. We hammer a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the head.
As a result, we get an even cylindrical workpiece that needs to be processed with a belt or eccentric sander.
We make a handle - it is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.
Transverse part of the guide
Let's start making the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:
- The base of the transverse part;
- Upper transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
- Lower transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
- End (fixing) strip of the transverse part.
Upper transverse clamping bar
Both clamping bars– the upper and lower ones have one end that is not straight 90º, but inclined (“oblique”) with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when cutting the workpieces.
The upper transverse clamping bar serves to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.
Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the ride and remove all defects that interfere with smooth sliding; in addition, you need to check the tightness of the inclined edges; There should be no gaps or cracks.
With a tight fit, the strength of the connection (fixation of the guide) will be maximum.
Assembling the entire transverse part
Longitudinal part of the guide
All longitudinal part consists of:
- , 2 pcs.);
- The base of the longitudinal part.
This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), and is also denser and stronger - more durable.
At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, all that remains is to refine the edges. This is done using edge tape.
The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) and understandable.
The base of the longitudinal part
We also additionally fix it with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to maintain a 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.
Assembly of transverse and longitudinal parts.
Right here VERY!!! It is important to maintain an angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.
Installation of the eccentric
Installing the guide
It's time to attach our entire structure to the circular saw. To do this, you need to attach the cross stop bar to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out using glue and self-tapping screws.
... and we consider the work finished - the circular saw is ready with your own hands.
Video
Video on which this material was made.
Presented in the video at the end of the article, the machine had been working for at least three years by the time of publication. Given homemade machine universal, can be used for milling work and as a sawing machine. In the second version, it is used by the author of the development, AlekseyL, for fine finishing work.
The table is glued together from two layers of 15 mm plywood and 5 mm fiberglass. The plane is perfect. On the front side there is a handle for adjusting the height of the cutter and a hole for connecting a chip ejector. On the back of the machine there are switches for the router and circular saw.
The hole for cooling the circular is shown below. Table dimensions 800/750 mm. Marks are made on both sides of the table every 1 cm and 2 grooves are made for the carriage runners. The circular saw is removable, the router is secured with 4 screws. The washer on the router is removable. It is removed if a large diameter cutter is installed.
The emphasis is universal. It can be placed both on the router and on the circular saw from any side. The support mounts are made reliable and comfortable. The carriage runners are also made of fiberglass. They glide well, no play has appeared in 3 years of operation of the homemade sawing machine. Sometimes the runners and grooves become lubricated.
Lifting mechanism of the router and other elements
Shown lifting mechanism milling cutter. Circular. View from below. The table is removable. Can be used separately from the machine. Circular saw and router. View with the table removed. Reinforcement of the frame and additional support for the table, but this is not urgently necessary. At the bottom there is a shelf for small items. The wheels are weak for the machine, but they haven’t broken in three years.
Positive features.
The machine is mobile, lightweight, dismountable, accurate (+- 0.1 mm), reliable.
Cons
The sawing machine is afraid of moisture, while the workshop is in the basement.
Video by blogger AlekseyL
Explanations from the author of the video. The router is fixed by its standard lever. But even without fixation, the work proceeds as usual, but at that moment it was felt that there was a slight lack of rigidity.
There were no drawings. I did it by eye. The dimensions of the L-shaped lever are as follows: the lower (horizontal) arm is 330 mm, the vertical arm is 200 mm, the angle between them is about 60 degrees. Dimensions are given by center.
For anyone home handyman, having your own stationary sawing machine saves time and works safely.
You can buy a ready-made stationary circular saw. The cost of small machines starts from 9,000 rubles; more or less decent stationary saws are sold in price range from 30 to 100 thousand.
Despite the apparent complexity of the design, any craftsman with basic plumbing skills can make a homemade circular saw. Moreover, during the design process it is possible to add functions not provided by the manufacturer.
What is a circular saw for?
Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the main tasks of the sawing machine. If you just need to cut firewood for the winter, or produce basic carpentry work like making a fence - just a sturdy table with a slot for a saw blade. These options are popular in rural areas.
Circular for working with logs
Of course, there can be no question of any safety or functionality when using such a device.
Some of these “models” have a shaft for securing the knives of a plane or jointer. As a rule, a frame is welded from a corner or channel, an electric motor from discarded factory ventilation is mounted on it, and with the help of a pulley the torque is transmitted to the disk. It makes no sense to describe in detail the manufacturing technology of such a machine.
It's another matter if you want to do carpentry work. In this case it is necessary coordinate table with guides that are fixed at different angles.
Because on such stationary saw You can work with small workpieces - you need to take care of the safety of the operator. It is advisable to provide adjustment of the rotation speed and the ability to easily change disks with different diameters.
Be sure to install a protective cover over the disk and cover the rotating parts of the drive with covers. The starting device is equipped with an emergency switch, and the “stop” button is located in an accessible place and is large in size.
You won't miss in an accident
How to make a circular, maintaining a balance between economy, functionality and safety
Let's look at the main components that make up a home circular saw. You can make them yourself, but only if you have certain skills and tools.
The frame can be made from a metal angle (channel) purchased from scrap metal collectors. If you have the means, contact a metal warehouse. Legs can be made from old ones water pipes, connecting them with corners.
A good option for a homemade frame made of rolled metal
IMPORTANT! Usage bolted connections is prohibited, since vibration will cause such a mount to become loose.
Electric welding must be used. Be sure to reinforce the corner joints with a jib. The upper part of the frame (on which the table will rest) and the podium for the electric motor are made from a corner with a side of at least 50 mm.
If the machine is equipped with wheels for movement, they must have steel rims and have locks. The higher the weight of the frame, the more stable the machine will be, and the safer the work will be.
A wood sawing machine allows you to cut workpieces across, along and at a given angle. They become useful both for entire industries and small home workshops.
In addition to working with wood, sawing machines allow you to process:
- Plastic;
- Stone;
- Soft metal.
It will be interesting for many to know that the very first sawing machine in the world was created not by anyone, but by Leonardo da Vinci himself. Since then, the designs have changed and improved significantly. But the principle remains the same.
Units from Makita and other companies are usually classified according to the type of executive, that is cutting tool. Therefore the machine happens:
- Disk;
- Shtripsov;
- With flexible cutter.
The machine saw itself can be placed in a vertical or horizontal position, which is why it is distinguished:
- Vertical sawing;
- Horizontal sawing.
Household models of machines and devices for woodworking industries are most often flexible or disk. Strip ones are rarely used.
Strip
- The main element of the stripping unit is the stripping saw;
- All such machines require installation of the cutter on a frame or a designated special structure;
- The saw can move straight or curved, depending on the model;
- Curvilinear machines are suitable for DIY work with durable materials;
- The most popular strip saws are in the field of stone processing and cutting.
Disk
This is a large bed equipped with a flat working surface. The saw wheel is located on this surface. When working on a wall, wood blanks are fed along the bed to the cutter.
The main advantages of disc models are the absence of chips, a guarantee of an even and most accurate cut.
In this case, all disk machines are divided into three types.
- Household machines. These are primarily desktop devices that allow for a small amount of work. The weight of the structure is up to 25 kilograms. The devices are compact, perfect for a home workshop where you will work with your own hands. The maximum cut for longitudinal cutting is 8 cm.
- With extendable table top. Such equipment is suitable for those who process chipboard or MDF in order to obtain workpieces of a certain curvature. Designed for small production facilities, they can cut material no more than 9 centimeters thick.
- Stationary. These are powerful sawing units designed for a large workshop. They are capable of sawing material up to 14 centimeters thick. This can be a format-cutting tool if the machine is equipped with a carriage.
The most common homemade machines are disc machines. Although homemade units have their drawbacks.
Advantages and Disadvantages
TO positive aspects disk unit include:
- High performance indicators;
- Good power;
- Precision cutting of workpieces;
- Reliable design;
- Impressive wood feed speed. It can reach 220 meters per minute.
But they also have disadvantages.
- The output is a smaller volume of product than with tape ones.
- Large amounts of wood waste are generated.
- The cutting element is expensive, which increases the cost of operation.
Flexible
The movement of the working tool is carried out using a pulley.
Units equipped with a flexible saw are distinguished by the shape of the saw itself:
- Tape;
- Ropeway;
- Chain.
If you need wood processing, then you should choose strip models. Rope and chain machines are more suitable for do-it-yourself stone processing - granite, marble, rocks.
Since we are interested in machines for woodworking, we will take a closer look at band devices with a flexible saw.
Band machines
The mechanism of the band sawing unit allows you to carry out three types of cutting yourself:
- Transverse;
- Curvilinear;
- Longitudinal.
Do-it-yourself woodworkers celebrate quiet work band press. This is useful for those who have organized a workshop at home, rather than in a workshop. This way, sawing the tree will not cause discomfort to you or your neighbors.
Band machines are divided into two types.
- Tabletop models. Used for DIY work in workshops, designed for low productivity. They are lightweight and compact in size. They must be installed on any stand - a workbench, table, etc. Some manufacturers, such as Makita, offer a stand included.
- Floor units. The support for such machines has a one-piece construction. The equipment is characterized by increased productivity and power. The units are intended for industrial use.
Advantages and Disadvantages
Tape machines provide several objective advantages when choosing this unit:
- Consume a small amount of electricity;
- Large volume of output products;
- Impressive cutting height reaching 36 cm;
- Safe work unit;
- Low noise level;
- Small amount of wood waste.
But the unit has disadvantages.
- Low performance indicators.
- The material supply speed does not exceed 120 meters of wood per minute.
- Can't cope with coniferous species. Due to the adhering resin, cutting accuracy deteriorates.
Homemade or factory
Many craftsmen create a homemade machine, equipping their own workshops with it. But is he capable homemade unit replace the factory one?
- A homemade machine has a minimum of functions, the simplest design. For rare home use this is enough, but for large volumes of work homemade apparatus will let you down.
- A homemade machine does not have the necessary levels of protection. Therefore, working with it is potentially dangerous.
- Factory equipment has a guarantee and quality certificates. Homemade can’t offer anything like that.
- The only place where it wins homemade version- this is the price. A factory one will cost at least 8 thousand rubles.
Making a homemade one or buying a factory unit is your personal decision.
Manufacturers
Among the most popular manufacturers of woodworking machines, which allow you to work with your own hands in home workshops or equip entire workshops, we should highlight:
- Makita;
- Bosch;
- Hitachi;
- Metabo.
- Bosch is the market leader offering huge assortment. Bosch provides quality, reliability, high performance even for the most simple models for lovers. But the prices are high, although you don’t mind paying for such quality.
- Makita. The Makita company assembles machine tools in China. This makes Makita equipment not inferior in quality to Bosch, despite stereotypes. Makita offers medium-sized machines price category. At excellent quality, you don't have to pay a fortune for the machine. The problem with Makita machines is the large number of fakes that have appeared recently. Therefore, when purchasing equipment, make sure that it is a genuine machine from Makita.
- Hitachi. Chinese-assembled machines for amateurs. They are not suitable for professionals, but they are perfect solution for a small workshop.
- Metabo. One of the leaders in the production of professional machines. They cost 20-30 percent less than Bosch, but correspond to their level.
It’s up to you to choose a proven Makita machine, or assemble a homemade unit. Follow safety regulations when working on equipment.
Difficult during repair, construction or dacha work can be done without a circular saw. Alas, work manual device It’s not always comfortable, and buying an expensive machine is impossible for obvious reasons.
Talented craftsmen are able to solve this problem by making a homemade circular machine with their own hands. What tools and materials are needed for this? What to consider before starting work? How to extend the service life of the received product? First things first.
Requirements for a homemade circular saw
Contrary to misconception, to make the device you will need ordinary lumber and tools. But before thinking through the design, you need to think about the bed - the element on which the machine will be installed.
The main requirements for it are reliability and stability. Usually for production processes welded is used metal structure, but it won’t work for household needs. Since a tabletop circular saw for wood will not cut the most voluminous materials, it does not require the most powerful engine, and the bed can be made of wood. There is no need for additional fixation (mounting in concrete), and possible vibration during operation will be reduced to a minimum.
The second requirement is the selection of the optimal power of sawing equipment.
Otherwise, the installation will not be justified, and a lot of electricity will be required to operate the machine.
Also, when developing a circular machine project, it is necessary to take into account following parameters equipment:
It is better to place the buttons with outside circular saw or provide an opening tabletop for them.
Now a few words about the main design elements for small household work.
Machine components
In addition to the bed, important element is power unit. Some experts advise installing factory settings hand saws, however, their power is not always comparable to that of real machines. In addition, you can make a mistake with the disk size. Therefore, it is better to assemble the power unit from two parts - the engine and the shaft for the disk.
An arbitrary asynchronous type power plant operating from a 220 V network is suitable as the first one. Its power does not exceed 1200 W, and the rotation speed is up to 4-4.5 thousand rpm. It is better to take standard pulleys for mounting the cutting element on the shaft, which have a tension system for reliable fixation and transmission of torque.
You will also need to do:
- support bar (a workpiece length limiter that can move relative to the plane of the saw element; makes it possible for the user to adjust the width);
- table top;
- legs (requires timber with a section of 30x30 or 40x40 mm).
When selecting the height of the table legs, the user's height is taken into account. The tabletop parameters are selected in the same way.
If long workpieces are to be sawed on a circular saw, more legs will be needed, otherwise the structure will begin to vibrate.
Suitable tabletop material is thick plywood of at least 50 mm, plexiglass or fiberglass. Chipboard is not recommended - it is not very reliable and can crumble during operation.
Tools and materials
In order to summarize what has been said above, below is full list required materials:
- sheet of plywood/plexiglass/textolite;
- boards 50x100 mm;
- wooden bars;
- steel corner for guides (preferably);
- a pair of clamps;
- hand circular saw.
For manufacturing, engines from washing machines, angle grinders, drills. However, their service life may be nearing the end, so they will not be suitable for a stable functioning machine.
An old one can serve as a tabletop kitchen table, but it’s better to assemble the frame with your own hands.
Before starting work, check that you have the following tools:
- screwdriver or drill;
- hacksaw/jigsaw;
- tape measure and pencil.
Now it's time to start producing the machine
Stages of work
Basic design features we have considered necessary tool stocked up, it’s time to get down to business and understand how to make a circular saw with your own hands so that it becomes a reliable assistant in any construction matters.
Making a countertop
Marking and sawing out the table top. Based on the dimensions of the parts that will be processed on the machine, a sheet of plywood is cut out with a jigsaw. After this, it is rubbed down with sandpaper. The space for the slot is marked on the underside of the tabletop. circular disk. The dimensions of the sole of the unit are also measured by applying it with outside; To do this, remove the blade from the saw and trace the required part, thus determining the seat.
Planting bars are chosen to a depth of approximately 10 mm (depending on the size of the disk). Then the saw is tried on; if there is not enough space, the hole is deepened.
Installation of slats. It is better to place transverse and longitudinal slats on the wrong side of the tabletop. The planks themselves, in the amount of 4 pieces (a pair of each) are made of timber.
For transverse ones, the length should be 7-8 cm less than the width of the tabletop on each side.
The slats are attached to self-tapping screws, for which sockets are pre-made. The fastener is fixed so that its head does not protrude above the tabletop.
Check that each side of the surface extends 7-8 cm beyond the edges of the resulting frame.
Final fixation of elements. First, the transverse ribs are attached. The edges of the slats are lubricated with wood glue for maximum strength. Next, the structure is fixed with clamps and self-tapping screws are screwed in. When the glue is completely dry, the same is done with the longitudinal slats. Then the frame parts are tightened together with two fasteners on each side. The clamps are removed.
Making legs
After selecting the bars, the following actions are performed:
Marking and cutting out the workpiece. The height of the legs (length of the beam) should be such that it is convenient to work. Typically the tabletop is located at hip level; this must be taken into account.
Adjusting the angle of inclination of the supports. At the bottom of each support, a portion of the material must be planed so that the leg is positioned at an angle. The base area should be less area tops (joints with the tabletop).
Fixation of legs. It is recommended to use steel corners, installed by surprise, to give the structure additional rigidity and stability. The fasteners are bolts with washers; they are fixed with the head facing outward so that you do not get injured while working on them.
Screed supports. Another operation to give greater stability. In pairs, fasten the legs diagonally on each side of the frame.
In this basically simple way, you can make a high-quality circular saw for wood with your own hands in little time and money.
Useful video
For a more complete understanding of the entire manufacturing process, take a look interesting video on this topic.
Safe work on the table saw
Homemade cutting or sawing equipment requires a special approach to work. The following safety precautions will help you avoid injury.
- Sawing workpieces with knots, cuttings, or icing is undesirable, and with metal inclusions is prohibited.
- When sawing wood longer than 2 m, stands or support frames are used. To receive the sawn material, the assistance of one person from the opposite side will be required.
- The workpiece is fed smoothly, without pressure or sudden movements. Otherwise, the disc may break or get stuck in the wood.
- You cannot push the remaining part of the small-sized material with your finger - there are special pushers for this.
- Cleaning work surface performed with brushes, but not with hands.
- It is mandatory to use glasses, long sleeves, and, if necessary, a respirator.
- The saw blade can only be replaced when the machine is switched off.
- Regularly remove from working area shavings, sawdust or other waste.
- Monitor the condition of the teeth of the working element. If they are misaligned, the disc should be changed or the teeth sharpened. Otherwise, the gap under the disk may increase, and the operation of the equipment will again become dangerous.
Even a novice craftsman can cope with the manufacture of a homemade circular saw for wood, if he thinks ahead important points future design. During the production of the unit, ensure compliance with the dimensions, reliability of fastenings, and stability of the elements. In order for the equipment to serve for a long time, you should be guided by the operating requirements for manual circular saws. The above recommendations will help extend the life of the installation.
