Planting currants and caring for them. White currant: planting, care, pruning and propagation

Common diseases of black currant:

Anthracnose. When the disease occurs, small brown spots appear on the leaves, which grow, and then the leaves dry out. The disease can also appear on the stalks, young shoots, and petioles.
White spotting. There are small brown spots on the leaves. Then they become white, but with a brown border. Black dots appear on the spots. When anthracnose or white leaf spot appears on black currants in April, the bushes are treated with Bordeaux mixture (1% solution) or 3% nitrafen solution. The treatment is repeated after 10 days. Then in mid-summer the bushes are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture (1% solution). They also collect all the diseased fallen leaves and burn them, dig up the soil near the tree trunk to a depth of 10 cm, do this in spring or autumn.
Glass rust. When the disease occurs, rusty growths are visible on the leaves. The disease can be transmitted from sedge. Therefore, it is necessary to eliminate all sedge. The leaves are collected and burned. Before the buds bloom, the currants are treated with 1% Bordeaux mixture.
Columnar rust. These are small rust spots on leaves. In the spring, even before the leaves bloom, the bushes are sprayed with 1% Bordeaux mixture. Then the same composition is sprayed after picking the berries. It is recommended to spray the leaves with phytosporin.
Striped mosaic. When the disease occurs, a grayish pattern is visible near the veins of the leaves. yellow. The disease cannot be treated; the infected bush is destroyed.
Powdery mildew. There is a coating on the berries and shoots white. Then the color changes to brown, the berries crack. To treat the disease, cut out all diseased branches, spray the currants with a solution of 100 g copper sulfate on a bucket of water. After 10 days, spraying is repeated. Spraying should be stopped 2 weeks before harvest.
Terryness. When terry, the outline of the leaves changes; instead of 5, they may have 3 lobes. The leaf darkens and becomes denser, the bush blooms later, the inflorescences have lilac color. To eliminate terry, the diseased bush is destroyed.

Not only people, but also various pests love to eat currants. Therefore, it is necessary to know the “enemy in person” and be able to fight it:

Currant aphid. To eliminate aphids, spray the branches with a soap solution or wash them. You can replace soap with ash, use 300 g per bucket of water. Make a solution of 3 tbsp. spoons of urea into a bucket of water, add potassium permanganate so that the solution is bright pink and treat the bushes. If there are a lot of aphids, then spray with Actellik, Karbofos, and Vofatox.
Moth, glass and leaf gall midge. When affected by the moth, the berries are entangled in cobwebs, they become reddish and dry out. If the ground is mulched with a layer of 8 cm, the moth larvae will not be able to get out and will die. To eliminate moth caterpillars, spray currants with Actellik and Metaphos. Glasswort larvae gnaw out the core of the stems, and for the winter they make their way to the roots. Leaf gall midge is detected when wrinkled leaves with small bumps are visible at the top of the branches. Early spring and in the fall, to eliminate leaf gall midges and glasswort, cut out old and diseased branches near the surface of the soil and burn them. Before the buds begin to bloom, spray the currants with “Aktara” or “Iskra” and add liquid soap.
Spider mite. In early May, red-brown or whitish leaves are visible, with cobwebs underneath. To eliminate the pest, burn the leaves affected by the mite and spray the bushes with insecticides.
Currant bud mite. These are tiny insects that crawl inside the buds and eat them. To control the pest, cut off and burn branches that show swollen buds in early spring. After flowering, treat the currants with a 1% aqueous suspension of colloidal sulfur.
Shield. They can be detected by formations on the leaves - shields that cover the pests. To eliminate early spring and late autumn, wash the branches with a stiff brush dipped in a soap solution. Sprinkle the currants with Actellik and Fitoverm.
Blackcurrant berry sawfly. Its larvae make their way inside the fruit. Damaged berries are larger and have a ribbed shape. Collect and burn the affected berries, mulch the ground, and dig up the soil in the fall.

More information can be found in the video:

Black currant is considered one of the healthiest and most delicious berries. Blackcurrant is used in medicine and cooking. It is used to prevent certain diseases.

Blackcurrant provides the human body with various types of vitamins (A, vitamins E, B, C, H), microelements (fluorine, iron, iodine, copper, cobalt, zinc, manganese), macroelements (calcium, potassium, phosphorus, calcium). It is the most beneficial for health, gives strength and vigor.

Also, black currant is valued due to its content of dietary fiber, organic acid, pectin, sugar, essential oils. Currant leaves are also endowed with generally beneficial properties. After all, it contains a large amount of phytoncides - these are volatile substances that fight microbes. The berry, black currant, is used for brewing various teas. Tea with it is tastier and healthier.

Black currant is endowed with the following beneficial properties:

Black currant is an excellent folk remedy for strengthening the immune system. It contains a lot of ascorbic acid.
Rich in antioxidants.
It contains many macroelements, and without them cellular metabolism is impossible.
The microelements included in the composition are necessary for cellular metabolism.
Currants are rich in anthocyanins (these substances act as protection against various damages).
It perfectly disinfects and relieves inflammation. It is recommended to take it for ARVI, in the postoperative period.
It has a beneficial effect on the cardiovascular system. It is also recommended for consumption by those who have poor eyesight or have liver problems.
By consuming black currants, small wrinkles may disappear.
It has also been proven that currants are excellent for the prevention of serious diseases such as Alzheimer's disease and the appearance of malignant tumors.

Blackcurrant stores useful qualities, even after freezing, heat treatment. IN folk medicine, it is used to treat cough.

The most popular varieties

Today you can count 224 varieties of currants. They are divided into early ripening ( Exotic, Nara, Summer resident, Nika, Sevchanka), mid-season varieties (Dubrovskaya, Dobrynya, Perun) and late ( Vologda, Katyusha, Nuclear, Mermaid) varieties.

To the types of currants that bring maximum yield, include: “treasure” - the sweetest berry, “nuclear” - the largest, “gross” - the most delicious. The homeland of these varieties is Altai. From one currant bush you can collect almost five buckets of berries. One berry will be the size of a grape. All the currants will ripen almost simultaneously.

Variety "Ilya Muromets". It is invulnerable to pests such as kidney mites. This is a strong, huge and immense bush. When ripening, the berries do not fall off.
The variety “Vasilisa the Beautiful” belongs to the mid-season bushes. Invulnerable to powdery mildew.
The “Yubileinaya Kopanya” variety has strong bushes and high yields. This variety is not picky about hot summers and various pests.
Another variety that is immune to heat and fungal microorganisms is Selechenskaya-2. She will also be comfortable growing in the shade.

How to plant currants correctly

Blackcurrant planting dates

The best time of year for planting currants is autumn. Although it can be planted in the spring. But it is not recommended to do this, since in the spring the buds bloom very quickly, and there is very little time left for the plant to get stronger.

Currant bushes are planted at the end of September - at the beginning of October, it is advisable to do so before the onset of frost. The advantage of planting in the fall is that the soil becomes denser near the root system during the hibernation period, and in the spring the bushes awaken and begin to grow well.

Currants prefer moist soil. Therefore, she will like it in the northern or northwestern part land plot. The main thing is that the place is protected from the wind. Currants can live not only in the shade, but also where there is sun rays, but everything should be in moderation.

Soil requirements (acidity, hole depth)

14 days before the start of planting currants, holes must be dug. Everyone will leave the open pit harmful substances, for example, chlorine, which came in when applying fertilizer in the form of manure. This is the first step.

The second step will be feeding the hole, i.e. introduction of nutrients. A mixture should be prepared for application to the ground in the following proportion: for 1 bucket of manure, take 300 grams of ash and 200 grams of superphosphate.

Calculate the depth of the hole. It should be twice as large as the roots of the future seedlings. A standard hole for seedlings will be a hole of this size: width - 60 cm, and depth - almost 50 cm.

Now we will talk about soil acidity. If the acidity of the soil where the seedlings will grow is 4-5 pH or lower, then 100 g of limestone, for example, chalk, slaked lime with water, is poured into the hole. To preserve moisture, you need to periodically loosen the soil under the seedlings.

Proper care is the key to a good harvest

Don't forget to water

Currants are watered infrequently, usually two or three times a season. The first watering is the beginning of shoot growth and the formation of ovaries, the second is when the berries begin to ripen, and the third watering is after the end of the harvest. Sometimes they water in the fall, but this is only when there is no rain.

Water the currants in the amount per 1 square meter. m. 4-5 buckets of water, in pre-constructed holes, about 15 cm deep. In the summer heat, it is necessary to check the soil moisture, this is done the easy way. You need to dig up the ground with one spade blade; if the ground is wet, then there is no need for additional watering.

If there is a lack of moisture, the plants exhibit slow growth of shoots, and during the ripening of the berries, the fruits may crumble. During drought in the fall, the bushes may freeze.

Fertilizer for black currants

Sometimes in the ground, there are not enough black currants the most useful substances. She needs to be fed. This is done throughout the entire period of growth of the currant bush. Immediately after planting the plant in the ground, and in the first two years, currants receive the required amount of potassium and phosphorus from the soil, which was used to fertilize the ground before planting. At the beginning of spring, it needs nitrogen, it is applied under the currants, it is buried and watered.

After three years, in addition to fertilizing with nitrogen in the spring, about 5 kg of organic fertilizers, superphosphate (50 grams) and potassium sulfate (20 grams) are added to the soil in the autumn.

If currants grow on swampy peat soils, then they need feeding once every three years. Lime must be added to the soil 4 times throughout the year. Also superphosphate and potassium sulfate.

Currants, which grow on sandy soils, need annual feeding. This is done in the spring.

Is bush pruning necessary?

Blackcurrants need to be pruned annually. Each currant branch should be renewed once every three years, as old branches produce a poor harvest.

Pruning currants has a beneficial effect on the formation of the bush, constant renewal and normalization of the crop load on the bush.

Currants can be cut in spring and autumn. The main purpose of cutting in the spring is to remove frozen branches; you need to thin out the thick currant branches. It should be pruned in early spring, before the sap flows. Sections of branches are smeared with varnish. But this needs to be done as early as possible, before the buds open. In the fall, unnecessary one-year-old stems are removed: these are branches that lie on the ground, are infected with pests that grow on the plant for more than two years and have a darker color.

Getting ready for winter

Preparing blackcurrants for winter requires a lot of attention. It is better to do this at the end of October, while there is no cold weather yet. IN winter period it must be protected from severe and persistent frosts, from lack of water, and from various pests.

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Magnificent blackcurrant harvest thanks to correct landing and care

Currants - planting and care in the country

Currants are planted in early spring or mid-autumn. Planting currants in the fall is preferable, since in the spring it is necessary to have time before sap flow begins and the buds open; in this case, the soil may not have time to warm up sufficiently and the plant will die.

Choose for currants sunny place, protected from the wind with well-drained, non-acidic soil (pH value 6-6.5). Fertile, light loamy soil is ideal. To reduce the acidity of the soil, add up to 1 kg of lime, chalk or dolomite flour per 1 square meter. m.

Currants are propagated using cuttings or by dividing the bush, by separating large shoots with roots from the main trunk. Growing black currants will be successful if you choose two-year-old seedlings up to 40 cm high, with 3-5 skeletal branches at least 20 cm long; they take root best. Let's look at how to plant currants step by step.

Soil preparation

The selected area is leveled 14 days before planting the seedlings, weed rhizomes are removed and the soil is left to shrink. After 2 weeks, the area is divided into circles with a diameter of 50-60 cm, which are dug to a depth of 40 cm. The distance between them is maintained at 1.5-2 m, when planted in rows - up to 3 m.

Three-quarters of the hole is filled with a bucket of compost or other organic matter. Add 200 g of superphosphate, 60 g of potassium sulfate or 40 g of wood ash. A little black soil is poured on top of the fertilizers so that their concentration does not burn the roots, and then planting is carried out.

Planting black currants

The seedling is planted at an angle of 45 degrees, placing the root collar at a depth of 5 cm. This promotes the growth of root buds and further development powerful root system. If you plant a seedling directly, the bush will form as a single-stem bush.

Planting currants is completed by watering 5 liters of water per hole and another 5 liters per circular hole around it. After watering, it is necessary to loosen the soil: up to 8 cm deep - directly under the plant, at a distance of 20 cm from it - up to 12 cm. Then the soil is sprinkled with fine peat or humus.

Having completed the planting procedure, the seedling is cut at a height of 15 cm from the ground, leaving up to 5 buds on it. Cut branches can be stuck next to the main shoot, watered with water with the addition of Kornevin and covered with film or plastic container, for rooting and engraftment. Pruning stimulates intensive plant growth.

Planting currants in summer video

If the seedlings were not prepared in advance, it is possible to plant black currants in the summer. Most often this is necessary when propagating currants by layering in your garden. This planting is also called planting or simply breeding. It is performed after fruiting has completed: for early varieties - in July, and for late varieties - in mid and late August.

Blackcurrant: cultivation and care

In order for berry bushes to develop well and bear fruit, it is necessary to ensure proper care of black currants throughout the growing season.

Spring care for black currants

Before the buds appear, all old, withered or diseased branches are cut back to a healthy stem, and the wounds are covered with garden varnish. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied (up to 80 g of ammonium nitrate or 50 g of urea per plant) for two-year-old bushes. After fertilizing, the soil is dug up and watered.

At the time of formation of the ovary, until the beginning of June, watering is carried out at the rate of up to 30 liters of water per bush, every 5 days. Do this in the evening, using warm water (10-15 degrees Celsius), at the root. For watering, it is recommended to make circular grooves 15 cm deep at a distance of 30 cm from the seedling. Water on leaves can lead to the development of powdery mildew.

To improve soil moisture resistance, mulching is desirable. You can use peat, straw or newspaper. It is important to do this during the green cone and bud formation phase to prevent moisture loss.

Caring for currants in summer

In the first half of June it should be organic fertilizer: up to 15 kg of humus per bush, or liquid fertilizer (bird droppings diluted with water 1:10).

When for a long time there is no rain, timely watering is especially necessary. Usually a bucket of water per week is enough. Watering currants in summer becomes more frequent from late June to mid-July during the ripening of the berries, and is done once every 5 days.

Caring for currants in June also includes pinching the tops of young stems into 2 buds to increase the number of side shoots. This procedure promotes the development of new shoots. The timing of pinching is also postponed to a later date in order to delay the fruiting of the bush.

During fruit ripening, foliar feeding is applied: mixing 5 g of potassium permanganate, 40 g of iron sulfate and 3 g of boric acid. Dissolve them separately and then mix together in a 10 liter bucket of water. Spraying is carried out in the evening or on a cloudy, windless day.

The berries must be harvested individually and not picked in bunches. This way there is less chance of damaging the plant. Watering and fertilizing are completely stopped two to three weeks before harvest.

Caring for currant bushes in autumn

Having completed the harvest, starting from mid-August and throughout September, watering is done once a week, loosening the soil to a depth of 5 cm. In dry autumn, preparation for winter includes increased soil moisture - half a meter deep.

At the end of September, it is necessary to add organic matter (4-6 kg of bird droppings), or feed with minerals: 20 g of potassium sulfate and 50 g of superphosphate. In any case, when applying fertilizer, add 200 g of wood ash. Afterwards, the soil is dug up and mulched to increase fruiting next year.

Before the onset of the first frost, it is necessary to prune underdeveloped and weak shoots, as well as those that grow into the middle of the bush and thicken it. Poorly developed young branches are also subject to removal, of which only 3-4 of the strongest are left. An adult bush usually consists of 15 shoots different years life.

Diseases and pests: prevention and treatment

To protect the plant from diseases, use preventive measures. In the spring, before the buds awaken, the bushes are watered hot water temperature plus 80 degrees. Celsius, at the rate of 3 liters per 1 plant for treatment against pests and diseases. They also carry out timely sanitary pruning of bushes to prevent thickening and regularly dig up the soil to destroy pests.

During flowering and the appearance of the first leaves, it is necessary additional processing fungicides: Alirin-B, Gamair, Forecast, Topaz, Glycoladine - against rust and anthracnose.

You can read about how to get rid of bud mites on currants in our article.

Preparing currants for winter

Proper care of blackcurrants includes preparation for winter. The soil under the bushes is weeded and fallen leaves are removed.

After the onset of the first frost, the bush is pulled upward in a spiral with a rope, clamping it at the top with a clothespin. The ground is covered with mulch. After a large amount of precipitation falls, a snow cushion 10 cm high is made at the base of the bush, and then the bush is completely covered with snow.

Bottom line

Growing currants on the plot will only bring pleasure, since the crop is not demanding and bears excellent fruit. Carefully monitor the behavior of the plant so that you always know what it needs, do not forget about timely watering, fertilizing and preventive treatments. Then black currants, which are cared for according to all the rules, will reward you with a magnificent harvest and large berries.

Currant (lat. Ribes)- a genus of plants in the Gooseberry family, which includes up to two hundred plant species, of which about fifty are common in the Northern Hemisphere. In the 11th century, currants appeared in the monastery gardens of Rus', and only after that they migrated to European countries. Currants are a very popular garden crop in our country. In addition to black and red currants, white and golden currants are also cultivated today, but black currants prevail over other types and are the most delicious berry, and as the most useful.

In addition to the fact that it can be usefully consumed fresh, jam, jellies, compotes are made from it, wines, syrups, liqueurs and liqueurs are prepared. Currants are also in demand in medicine, as a raw material for the pharmaceutical industry.

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Planting and caring for currants

Landing: It is possible in early spring, but it is better in early autumn.
Lighting: bright light.
Soil: non-acidic, well-drained and fertilized soil.
Watering: regular, approximately once every five days, spending 20-30 liters of water for every 1 m² of plot: the soil should get wet to a depth of 30-40 cm. White and red currants are less moisture-loving.
Trimming: In the spring, sanitary cleaning is done, and in the fall, during the leaf fall period, the main pruning of black currants is carried out. For white and red currants, spring pruning is sufficient.
Feeding: if the soil was filled with fertilizers before planting currants, fertilizing begins only in the third year: in early spring nitrogen is added to the site, in June-July three foliar feeding bushes, in the fall the soil in the root area is dug up with manure, compost or chicken droppings and phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.
Reproduction: arcuate layering, green and woody cuttings and rooting of two-year-old branches.
Pests: pale-legged, fruit and yellow sawflies, biennial leafrollers, moths, shoot, gall and red gall aphids, moths, spider and kidney mites, glass beetles, gall midges.
Diseases: anthracnose, septoria, white spot, terry, gray mold, goblet and columnar rust, necrosis of shoots and branches, powdery mildew, striped mosaic, necrosis necrosis.

Currant bushes - description

Currant is a perennial shrub plant, compact or spreading, one to two meters high with fluffy pale green shoots that turn brown with age. Every year new shoots grow from dormant buds. The currant rhizome is a powerful system, going 60 cm deep. Three- or five-lobed currant leaves have a diameter of three to twelve centimeters, a serrated edge, with top side The plates are dark green, and on the bottom they are pubescent along the veins. Bell-shaped light purple or pinkish flowers are collected in drooping racemes.

The fruit is a fragrant berry. The color and size of the berry depends on the type and variety of currant. Currants bloom in May-June and bear fruit in July-August. Fruiting begins already in the second year after planting. Along with such popular crops as strawberries, wild strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and blueberries, currants are grown not only in private gardens, but also on an industrial scale. Currants are a relative of the ubiquitously grown berry gooseberry.

Planting currants

When to plant currants

Among garden and berry crops, currants are long-lived; they begin to bear fruit the next year after planting, and if currants are properly cared for, one bush can bear fruit for more than fifteen years. And therefore, our task is to clarify for you such important issues for the longevity of the crop as planting and caring for currants. The most best time for planting currants is the beginning of autumn, although in special cases You can plant currants in the spring.

Two-year-old currant seedlings with three skeletal roots are selected for planting. A store-bought seedling should be carefully inspected so as not to buy a sick or weak specimen.

Currants prefer to grow in a sunny, wind-protected location in well-drained, non-acidic soil. If you need to reduce the acidity of the soil on the site, then before planting currants, add 300-800 g of lime per m² to the soil for digging. In addition to lime, you need to add 2-4 kg of organic fertilizer, as well as 100-150 g of granulated superphosphate and 20-30 g of potassium sulfate for each m² of land. Digging depth is 20-22 cm.

Planting currants in autumn

The holes for planting currants should be approximately 55x55 and about 45 cm deep. The distance between them is one and a half to two meters. A bucket of humus, 100 g of superphosphate and 45 g of potassium chloride are added to each hole. To avoid burning the root system of the seedling, fertilizer is sprinkled on top with a layer of soil 7-9 cm thick. You need to dig holes and add fertilizer to them a couple of weeks before planting the seedlings, so that the soil has time to settle.

The seedlings are immersed in holes at an angle of 45º so that the root collar is at a depth of 5 cm. The roots are carefully straightened: this is necessary so that additional roots and shoots begin to form from the buds buried in the soil - this is how powerful currant bushes with a large number of strong branches. Lightly sprinkle the roots with soil, compact it, water the seedlings at the rate of half a bucket of water for each bush and fill the hole to the top with soil. Then make a furrow around the bush and pour water into it.

Mulch the soil under the bush with humus so that a crust does not form after watering. Trim the shoots of the seedling at a height of 10-15 cm from the ground so that there are only 4-5 buds on the short remains of the shoots, and you can stick the pieces into moist soil, where they will almost certainly take root.

Planting currants in spring

If you need to plant currants in the spring at any cost, do it before the sap begins to flow, until the buds on the seedlings begin to open. All the inconvenience spring planting currants is that at the beginning of the growing season the time period when you can plant currants is too short - they begin to grow too early, and the soil may not yet warm up to the temperature necessary for the seedling to take root. It’s good if you guessed to dig a hole in the fall, and the soil in it has had time to settle, this will make your task easier.

Currant care

Caring for currants in spring

How to care for currants during the growing season? For convenience, we divided the period into three sections according to the seasons. Growing and caring for currants spring time is not difficult and consists of the following:

remove the buds affected by the mite, and if most of the buds are affected, then cut the shoots on the bush almost to the base;
shallowly dig up the bush and mulch the soil around it with manure or humus;
provide sufficient watering of currants during the growth and flowering period;
remove weeds from the area and loosen the soil under the bushes to a depth of 6-8 cm at least 2-3 times a week. Mulch helps to avoid frequent loosening;
carry out sanitary pruning of currants after winter;
in early spring, carry out preventive treatment of currants against pests and diseases;
in May, when currants begin to bloom, inspect the flowers and, if double inflorescences are found, cut them out, and if this phenomenon becomes widespread on some bush, uproot the bush so that the double inflorescence does not spread to other plants;
fertilize currants with nitrogen fertilizers.

Caring for currants in summer

Watering, which currants really need, becomes especially important in the hot season. Read about how and when to water it in a special section. It is also necessary to monitor the cleanliness of the soil between the bushes and remove weeds in a timely manner. IN summer time you need to feed the currants with organic fertilizers, combining them with watering.

Closely monitor the health of the plants and immediately respond to the slightest changes in their appearance, but do not treat currants with chemicals against diseases or pests later than three weeks before the berries ripen, try to get by folk remedies. When the berries begin to ripen, collect them selectively as they ripen: black currants - one berry at a time, red and white - in tassels.

Caring for currants in autumn

After harvesting, currants need watering followed by loosening the soil. At the end of September, currants are fed with organic and mineral fertilizers and carry out sanitary and formative pruning of bushes. At the same time, they are engaged in planting and propagating currants. If the autumn turns out to be dry, carry out abundant pre-winter watering of currants and preventive treatment against pests and pathogens that have settled for the winter in the bark of shoots or in the soil under the bushes.

Currant processing

As is known, healthy plants rarely affected by diseases or pests, but preventive treatment of plants is necessary. How to spray currants so that they survive the season painlessly and produce a bountiful, high-quality harvest, especially since in early spring, along with the awakening of the buds, pathogenic bacteria, fungi, as well as larvae of harmful insects that have overwintered in the cracks of the currant bark or in top layer soil.

Before the buds on the bushes swell, treat the currants with a one percent solution of karbofos, Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate. You can spray the currants with nitrafen, not forgetting to treat the soil on the site. When the growing season comes to an end, rake up all the fallen leaves and remove them from the site so that pests do not settle in them for the winter, and carry out autumn prevention by spraying the currant bushes and the soil around them with the preparations already listed.

Watering currants

If the winter was snowy, then the currant bushes in the spring frequent watering will not be needed, since the soil will be saturated with melt water. If there was no snow and there is little moisture in the ground, then you will have to water the currants regularly. During the period of formation of ovaries and filling of berries, especially if there is dry heat, currants require soil moisture warm water approximately once every five days. In order for the soil to get wet to a depth of 30-40 cm, the approximate consumption should be 20-30 liters per m² of area.

It is necessary to pour water under the bush so that drops of moisture do not fall on the fruits and leaves of the currant. It is best to make circular grooves 10-15 cm deep at a distance of 30-40 cm from the crown projection or arrange irrigation areas around the bushes, limiting their circumference with an earthen roller 15 cm high. At the end of the growing season, in case of a dry autumn, carry out pre-winter watering of currants, which will provide its roots with moisture until the end of winter.

Red and white currants are not so demanding on soil moisture.

Currant feeding

Newly planted bushes have received enough fertilizer to last for two years, but then there comes a time when it will be necessary to fertilize regularly. In early spring, currants need nitrogen fertilizers. Young two-year-old bushes will need 40-50 g of urea, and four-year-old and more mature bushes will need two feedings of 15-20 g each. In the fall, it is necessary to add four to six kilograms of organic fertilizer to the soil under each bush - chicken manure, manure or compost, according to 50 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate. This is the required minimum.

What else to feed currants with? to strengthen its immunity to diseases and pests and lay the foundation for a good harvest? Experts recommend three foliar feedings of currants in June-July: 3 g of boric acid, 5 g of potassium permanganate and 35 g of copper sulfate are diluted separately and mixed with 10 liters of water. Bushes are sprayed with this composition after sunset or on a cloudy, windless day.

Currant pruning

Pruning currants in spring

Pruning currants is necessary so that the plant can bear fruit to its full potential, without wasting energy and nutrition on unnecessary and weak shoots. A larger number of berries are formed on last year's growths of four to five year old branches. Therefore, a currant branch that is more than six years old is a burden for the plant and must be removed. It is also necessary to rid the bush of branches that are dried out and affected by pests or diseases. If you remove unnecessary shoots in time, your currant, if it is black, can bear fruit for up to twenty years, and if it is red, then for fifteen years.

When and how to prune currants? The main pruning is carried out in the fall, after the leaves have fallen, and in the spring, before the buds open, shoots that have frozen over the winter are shortened to healthy tissue, and broken and dead branches are cut out. In summer, you can pinch the ends of young shoots to stimulate their tillering and give the bush the correct shape.

Pruning currants in autumn

For currants in the first year of growth, if you remember, during planting, all shoots are cut off at a height of 10-15 cm from ground level. Bushes of the second year of life are freed from zero shoots, leaving only 3-5 of the strongest of them, which will become skeletal branches in the future. On currant bushes of the third and fourth year, zero shoots are cut out, leaving 3-6 of the most developed ones. Do not allow the bushes to thicken; cut out underdeveloped and weak shoots from the middle of the bush. The tops of last year's shoots are trimmed.

The branches of the second and third years are pruned, leaving two to four buds on each branch. By this age, with proper and timely pruning, the bush is completely formed. At the next stage, branches older than six years appear, which should be cut at the root. All other branches are cut according to the described scheme.

Pruning red and white currants

Red and white currants are pruned in the spring. The principle and pattern of pruning are the same as for black currants, but the tops of the growths are not pinched, and the shoots of the second and third years are not shortened. Simply remove branches older than seven years (for these types of currants, these are considered old), cut out unnecessary new shoots, broken or diseased branches. If the old branch is still producing fruit, cut it back to the nearest strong fork. This will extend its life and fruiting period.

Currant propagation

How to propagate currants

Most often, currants are propagated vegetatively - by arcuate layering, lignified or green cuttings, and by rooting two-year-old branches from a bush. Red currants reproduce well by layering, but worse by cuttings. Seed propagation Only specialists can grow currants, and for an amateur gardener this is a long and unreliable method, so we will not describe how to propagate currants by seeds.

Propagation of currants by cuttings

Currant cuttings are carried out by two types of cuttings - green and lignified. Propagation by lignified cuttings- the most affordable way, since you can get planting material possible at any time of the year. Currant cuttings can be planted for rooting in both autumn and spring. It is better to harvest cuttings at the beginning of winter, before severe frosts, which can destroy currant buds.

It is better to cut cuttings 18-20 cm long and 8-10 mm thick from the middle of one-year-old shoots growing from the root or from three-year-old branches. To preserve them before planting, you need to seal the lower and upper sections with melted garden pitch or paraffin - this way they will not lose moisture during storage. The cuttings are wrapped in lightly wet paper, then in polyethylene and buried in the snow or put in the refrigerator. In early spring, cuttings are planted on training beds at an angle of 45º at a distance of 15 cm from each other with row spacing 20 cm wide. The lower end of the cutting, covered with paraffin, is cut off obliquely; when planting, the cutting is buried so that only two buds remain above the surface.

The beds are watered abundantly and mulched with sawdust, humus or fine peat. Arched supports up to half a meter high are installed above the bed and polyethylene is thrown over them, which is removed only when the first leaves appear on the cuttings. Moderate watering is necessary, but even short-term drying out of the soil should not be allowed. In summer, the garden bed needs to be weeded, watered and fed with mullein. By autumn, the cuttings produce seedlings 30 to 50 cm high with one or two shoots. The most developed of them can be transplanted to permanent place, and the weaker ones grow for another year.

Propagation of currants by green cuttings

Green cuttings can only be rooted in a greenhouse. True, there is another method worthy of attention. Cuttings are taken from well-developed shoots, but the apex is not used for rooting. The length of the cutting with two green leaves should be 5-10 cm. The cuttings are placed in water, after two weeks they form roots 10-12 mm long, and the cuttings are transplanted into bags with soil, in which holes have been previously made to drain excess water. Water the cuttings every 2-3 days so that the soil in the bag has the consistency of sour cream. After 7-10 days, watering is reduced so that the soil reaches its normal density.

Keep the cuttings at home until May; by this time they should grow to 50-60 cm in height. Before planting, the bags are cut, and the cuttings are buried diagonally into the soil 15 cm deeper than they grew in the bag.

Reproduction of currants by layering

The simplest and most reliable way to propagate currants is by layering. This method allows you to obtain strong seedlings with a powerful root system in just one year. A healthy two-year-old currant branch is used as a layer, growing obliquely on the periphery of the bush so that it can be easily bent to the ground.

Dig a furrow 10-12 cm deep under it, bend the branch and lay it along the furrow so that the top of the branch 20-30 cm long protrudes from the furrow. Secure the middle part of the layer in the furrow with a metal bracket or wire hook. Fill the furrow with soil and water regularly throughout the summer. By autumn, it will become a full-fledged seedling with a well-developed root system and several branches, which can be dug up and transplanted to a permanent place.

Currant diseases

Currant varieties

Currant varieties differ not only in the color of the berries, but also in the time of their ripening. According to this criterion, they are divided into early, mid-early, middle, mid-late and late.

TO early varieties include:

Pearl– black variety with very large (up to 6 g) sweet berries;
Venus– black currant with berries weighing up to 5.5 g, sweet and sour, tall bush;
Black boomer– black sweet berries weighing up to 7 g, vigorous, compact bush;
Jonker Van Tets– very large red berries with a sweet and sour taste;
Ural white– white currant, large, sweet, spreading bush.

Mid-early varieties:

Bashkir giant- black, very large berries sweet and sour taste, high resistance to diseases and pests;
Belarusian sweet– very large sweet blackcurrants;
Umka– white currant with large sweet berries, vigorous, erect bush.

Medium varieties:

Sanyuta– black berries weighing up to 5.5 g, sweet and sour, vigorous, compact bush;
Osipovskaya sweet– a variety of red currant with large sweet berries, a slightly spreading bush, vigorous;
Imperial yellow– yellow currant, which is actually a high-yielding variety of white currant with small berries of a sweet and sour taste on medium-sized, medium-spreading bushes;
Versailles white– a white currant variety with large and medium-sized fruits with a sweet and sour taste.

Mid-late varieties:

Anniversary Kopanya– black currant with sweet and sour berries, vigorous, compact bush;
Roland– red currant with a sweet and sour taste, a winter-hardy variety, resistant to fungi.

Late varieties:

Lazy– black currant with very large sweet berries, vigorous, compact bush;
Valentinovka– very large berries for red currants with a sour taste, ideal for making jelly.

Currently, this type of plant is becoming increasingly popular among gardeners. exotic look like golden currants. She arouses interest for her decorative qualities - her flowers different shades yellow color have a strong pleasant aroma, and the leaves acquire bright, variegated colors in the fall. The color of the berries is also varied: brown, orange, pink, red, blue-black, yellow - it depends on the variety. However, the taste of golden currant berries is much inferior to the taste of black, red and white.

Currant hybrids

Today, only two currant hybrids are widely known. Yoshta- a hybrid of protruding gooseberry, common gooseberry and black currant, bred in 1970. Breeders worked on it for about forty years. Yoshta grows on powerful spreading bushes about one and a half meters high and of the same diameter. The bush is thornless, berries weighing up to 5 g with dense skin, black with a purple tint, collected in a cluster of 3-5 pieces, have a pleasant nutmeg flavor. The hybrid is resistant to frost and some diseases and pests, lives 20-30 years, and is common in Western Europe.

Kroma- a Swedish hybrid of currants and gooseberries with large, very smooth black berries up to 2 cm in diameter, just like joshta berries, collected in clusters of 3-5 pieces. Krom does not have the aroma of currants; the taste of the berries is reminiscent of gooseberries and currants at the same time. In Swedish conditions, the berries ripen by mid-July.

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Currants are a resident of almost every garden. And novice gardeners definitely try to grow this bush in their summer cottage. And also currants, which are quite simple to plant and care for in open ground, look very beautiful and have a lot of useful properties.

Currants - planting and care in open ground

This berry has been familiar to everyone since childhood, but few people know it botanical description. For a gardener, this information will be quite interesting. So, currants are a whole genus of perennial shrub plants, which belong to the Gooseberry family. Unites almost 200 species, of which about 50 are widely distributed in the nature of Asia, North America, Europe. A huge number of wild species of this berry bush found in Siberian region Russia, and in the European part of the country there are only 3 of them.

Currant is a shrub with shoots up to 2 m high, richly decorated with carved lobed leaves of 3-5 blades of quite large sizes (up to 12 cm). The color of the leaf blade is dark green on the outside, and lighter on the inside, with a slight edge along the veins. Currant bushes very well, because every spring more and more young stems appear from dormant buds.

Note! Currant leaves have a special aroma that is familiar to everyone. This is why they are often dried and added to teas and seasonings. And they give off a special aroma golden color glands located along the edges of the leaf blade.

The root system of the currant bush is fibrous, quite lush, penetrating approximately 20-60 cm deep into the ground. Currant flowers are small bell-shaped buds, each having 5 sepals and collected in racemes of several pieces, which can have different color, including white, red in different shades, pink, yellow. The period of flower appearance begins in May-June and lasts until June-July, although, depending on the region, it may begin later and end later.

The fruit is a very juicy round berry with a strong aroma. Its color and size directly depend on the type and variety of the bush, and the taste can be sour or sweet-sour. The color of the fruit varies from transparent white to black, and can be red or yellowish-golden. Fruiting begins around July-August, and from the moment the currants are planted in open ground It should take about 2 years.

Currants are one of the most popular garden crops, which are grown in garden plots along with gooseberries. It owes its popularity not only to its unique taste, but also to other properties. It is very useful, as it contains a lot of vitamins and microelements necessary for health. Various dishes are prepared from this berry, added to teas and decoctions, and natural food dyes are made from blackcurrant juice.

Currants are also used in folk medicine for the prevention of circulatory diseases, nervous systems, as well as malignant tumors, diabetes, and visual impairment. It has a positive effect on mental abilities, fights varicose veins, and is effective for kidney diseases.

Currant tea is not only tasty, but also healthy

Note! Due to its enormous economic importance, currants are grown not only summer cottages, but also on an industrial scale. And the largest producer of this berry in the world is Russia.

Varietal diversity

Currants, which can be found in private summer cottages, are divided into three main types: black, white, red. Each of them has its own characteristics and qualities.

, perhaps, is the most common variety of this berry. It is found in almost every gardening area in Russia, Europe, and Mongolia. In nature it grows mainly in forests and near water bodies. The blackcurrant bush is powerful, branched, with shoots up to 2 m high, which are green in color when young, but then change to brown and become woody at the base. You can eat aromatic berries from mid-summer. They are quite large, aromatic, and have a sweet and sour taste.
- also one of the most common species in gardening. The bushes are slightly smaller than black currants. Sour berries have a transparent shell and bright red color, and smaller in size than black currants (8-12 mm).
in the European part it is almost never found; its bush has a height of up to 1.5 m. The berries are sweet and sour, have a yellowish tint, transparent skin, through which the seeds are clearly visible. Fruit size is 6-10 mm.

There are some other features that distinguish black, red and white currants from each other. For example, black currant has the most fragrant leaves. White and red smell much weaker. The fact is that black berry leaves contain more essential oils. The most sour fruits are those of red and white currants; black currants are much sweeter in terms of taste than previous types. Also, the first two produce more watery berries.

Note! In terms of vitamin content in berries, black currant is the leader. For example, it contains 4 times more vitamin C than red or white, despite the fact that they are more acidic.

Types of currants also differ in their methods of propagation: for example, red and white ones are usually propagated by dividing the bush, but black ones are propagated by cuttings. Moreover, the first two species can not be replanted for 15-20 years, while the place of residence of the black one should change every 6-7 years. But such varieties are less susceptible to diseases.

Table. Currant varieties.

Variety	View	Description
Dessert	White	It has large berries of a delicate cream color.
Versailles white	White	Produces large berries weighing up to 1.5 g. The color of the fruit is yellowish-white, transparent. Winter hardiness is average.
Primus	White	It is not afraid of cold weather, the berries are yellowish and very juicy and sweet.
Valentinovka	Red	Produces very large berries, but only at the end of the season.
Chulkovskaya	Red	An early-ripening, abundantly fruiting variety. Produces small red berries. The weight of one fruit is 0.4 g.
Darnitsa	Red	Fruits abundantly, is not afraid of transportation and transplants. Medium sized berries.
Sofievskaya	Black	It begins to bear fruit early and produces sweet-sour, oval-shaped berries. There are a lot of them on the bush.
Ariadne	Black	The harvest from the bush can be rich. Ariadna has excellent immunity, begins to bear fruit in mid-summer, is not afraid of cold weather, and winters well.
Belarusian sweet	Black	Winters well. Fruits abundantly. The berries are blue-black in color, large, the weight of one fruit is up to 1.2 g.

To be sure that the currant seedlings or cuttings are exactly the species that are planned to be grown on garden plot, and also know for sure that the plants are healthy, you should buy them only in specialized nurseries with documents. In the markets, under the guise of one variety, they can sell a completely different one, and you can also run into diseased plants. Unfortunately, it is not always possible to understand this immediately - some diseases have an incubation period of about 2 years. And externally the plant will be full of strength and health.

Currants bear fruit most actively if there are a lot of bushes growing on the site (about 10 different types). But not every gardener has the opportunity to plant plants in such quantities. That is why it is very important to carefully choose a variety to get a good harvest. This takes into account climatic conditions region, timing of flowering and fruiting of plants, harvesting period, possibilities proper care for landings. It is also good to form currant plantings from bushes with different terms fruiting - then the berry can be enjoyed for the longest possible period, sometimes almost all summer.

Note! The mid-early, cold-resistant red varieties Niva, Konstantinovskaya, Bayana, and black varieties Luciya, Sadko, Nara, which are classified as large-fruited varieties, performed well in the Russian regions.

Rules for planting currants

How well currants will bear fruit largely depends on the growing conditions. The basic rules for planting this crop are as follows.

The place for the bushes should be level and sunny, because currants are a light-loving plant. Also, do not plant it in lowlands or hillocks, otherwise the plant will suffer from excess cold air or wind.
The soil acidity (pH) on the site must be at least 4.5. Currants are very fond of loam and sandy loam.
Aquifers in the soil thickness should not be closer to the surface than 1 m.
The place where currants will grow must be cleared of weeds and fertilized at least 2 months before the planned planting of seedlings.

Advice! Very good fertilizer It’s easy to make your own for currant soil. Compost is added to the soil at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 m2, potassium salt (20 g/1 m2), lime (2-6 kg/m2), (50-70 g/1 m2). After adding the complex, the soil is dug well to the depth of a spade bayonet.

When is it better to plant currants - in spring or autumn? Opinions experienced gardeners differ in this regard. But since the plant begins to come to life after winter in the spring and grows early, it is recommended to form plantings in early autumn, in September. Although currants take root much better in spring, they must be planted before the sap flow period begins.

In this case, the pits for planting are prepared in advance. They can be made according to two schemes - tape and single. In the first case, the distance between seedlings is about 60-80 cm, in the second - 1 m. The row spacing is maintained with a strip pattern of about 2 m, with a single pattern - 2 m.

Note! Most gardeners recommend using a strip scheme - in this case, the yield will be impressive in the first years. But the immunity of such plantings must be excellent - with strong density, the risk of developing diseases is much higher.

Spots on currant leaves - possible consequence strong thickening

Holes for currant bushes should have the following dimensions - 50*50*50 cm. A little wood ash (100-150 g each) is placed at the bottom of each prepared hole and sprinkled with soil. If the soil has not been fertilized beforehand, then add a little superphosphate (also 100-150 g each) and 1-2 buckets of humus. The holes are well shed with water. Currant bushes are planted no earlier than after 20 days.

Plants purchased from a nursery, if they have not been pruned, must be trimmed before planting, leaving 3-4 buds on the branches. If this procedure has been carried out, the plant will bush well. Before planting, currant cuttings are kept for 15 minutes in warm water (+46 degrees) - this event is a good prevention of currant mites.

How to propagate and plant currants

Step 1. First of all, prepare the holes for the bushes as described above.

Step 2. Fertilizers are added to the prepared hole the right quantity, all this is sprinkled with soil and the hole is left for a while.

Attention! Sprinkling the fertilizer with soil or compost is important to keep the plant's roots away from the chemicals. Otherwise, the roots may get burned.

Step 3. The currant bush is placed inside the hole. The roots are carefully spread over the earthen bed. There should be no voids left between the roots and the ground.

Step 4. Root system The currant bush is covered with earth, lightly compacting the soil.

Step 5. The planted bush is watered well.

Step 6. Sprinkle the watered soil with a little more soil and form a small border of soil, which will help retain water when watering near the bush.

Step 7 The soil is shed again, after which the currant shoots are cut so that 4 buds remain. The ratio of above-ground and underground parts should be the same.

Video - How to plant black currants

Bush care

Currants are an unpretentious plant, but in order for them to bear fruit well, they, like any garden crop, need good care. Spring care for currant bushes consists of removing mite-affected shoots, as well as dead parts of plants. They dig in the bushes, simultaneously loosening the soil around them. Add mulch under each one. You should loosen the soil around the currant bushes every 2-3 weeks, but if they have been mulched, then this procedure can be done less often. Also in the spring, currants are treated against pests.

In the summer, be sure to water the currants and make sure that it is clean between the bushes - remove debris and weeds. Organic fertilizers are periodically applied to the bush.

In the fall, the bushes continue to be watered and the soil around them is periodically loosened. The last feeding is done at the end of September. At the same time, if necessary, the plantings are thinned out and propagated.

Video - Planting and caring for currants

If you care for currant bushes correctly, the berry harvest will be abundant and of high quality. It can be sold, or it can be used to prepare all kinds of preparations.