Preparing a body part for repair is the most important starting point to achieve best quality on the way out. I hope no one will challenge this axiom?

So where should you start?

Let's take the front wing as an example.

To determine the nature of the damage and draw up the right plan work, the suspected element should be washed properly. Moreover, after water, you should wipe it with White Spirit and solvent. This action will give us a complete picture of the damage. Please note that a small fender defect (scratches or small dents) may also result in paint chips and other minor defects. And, if you are destined to paint it, then it must be done with all dignity, regardless of the different faces.

So, we have found all the defects - what next? And then we come to the conclusion that we will have to prime the entire element. Hence, the conclusion is that we remove all defects from the surface.
Let's imagine that we have a long scratch on the surface of the wing, forming a shallow dent, and several small scratches and chips.
What to do? – The eternal question of the Russian intelligentsia.

I’ll explain point by point:

1. Matte the entire surface of the wing with P220-240 abrasive. You can use an orbital sander, but where you can’t get anywhere, do it manually. On a matted surface, all dents and small defects seem to appear and become better visible.
2. A scratch with a dent must be sanded so that there are no sharp edges of chipped paint (If there is rust, we remove it to zero). Don't be afraid to erase too much. We sand the scratch and its edges with P120 abrasive (sandpaper). This is a fairly large abrasive grain, and with it better adhesion of the putty to the surface is achieved.
3. Next, sand down small scratches and chips. We expand them along the plane. So that it doesn't happen sharp corners and peeling from the surface.
4. Now, it's time to putty.

If you don’t know yet, then great news for you – putty, there is more than one! It has many varieties. Let's start in order:

2. Putty with aluminum filler (coarse two-component putty - filler, for filling deep dents, as a primary layer). Excellent processing, gives little shrinkage when drying.

3. “Universal” putty - (two-component), coarse enough to remove shallow dents and irregularities, usually yellowish in color.

4. Putty “Finish”, (two-component) usually white, perfectly processed. Apply over rough putty for more precise leveling.

5. One-component putty (completely finishing?) in a tube, for filling micro-scratches and micro-irregularities. I recommend using it for final puttying.

Having cleaned the repair surface with P120 abrasive, we proceed to puttying. Don’t forget to degrease the repair surface first. If there are traces of rust on the repair area, they should be treated with a “rust converter” according to the instructions on the bottle.

Mix the coarse putty with the hardener - mixing thoroughly so that there are no pink streaks (usually pink- hardener) and evenly fill the repair area with a spatula with light pressure. Don't try to do it all at once this procedure. They applied it and waited 10-15 minutes for the putty to set. Usually, 3-4 batches and lubrications are required to achieve complete filling of the defective area.

The next stage is sanding.
We sand with sandpaper with abrasive grain P120. Carefully, trying not to climb beyond the repair area. (Otherwise there will be extra scratches - do you need it?)

To achieve safety, tape off the repair area masking tape, preferably two or three layers. For better control, before sanding, I strongly recommend wiping the surface to be treated (dried putty) with black developing powder. It will be easier to control defects (where putties still need to be applied).

I recommend grinding with a special plane; the highest quality finishing is achieved.

When sanding the part, pay attention to abrasions. If metal begins to protrude, then there is no point in rubbing further - you need to add putties (to fill the gap formed between the rubbed areas).

Remember! Putty is much softer than paint (varnish), and even more so metal, so it can be wiped off with sandpaper faster and easier. Therefore, if metal begins to appear on the surface being treated, stop grinding and add another layer of putty.

Having sanded the rough putty and achieved the required result (as they say, “almost done”), you should apply the finishing putty to all suspicious areas being processed (as well as to all places marked with developing powder) and sand it on a plane with P220-240 abrasive. By doing this, you will cut (grind) the larger scratch caused by preliminary grinding with abrasive with P120 grain, and also smoothly sand all the transitions.

Metal putty is used in cases where scratches, small holes and dents appear on the coating. With its help, the surface returns to its original state. There are many types of putty, but not every one is suitable for metal.

There are putties for metal, which are divided into one- and two-component. Manufacturers produce mixtures of different compositions:

• polyester;
• epoxy;
• nitro putty;
• pentaphthalic.

Each composition has its own specific characteristics and features when applied to the surface. If there is a choice when buying putty for metal products, you need to pay attention to its properties; a high-quality putty should have the following:

• short drying time;
• high adhesion to the coating;
• high degree of ductility, even after drying;
• ease of application and maximum surface leveling;
• minimum shrinkage after completion of work;
• compatibility with varnishes or coloring components.

Which metal putty is better, everyone decides for themselves when purchasing.

Polyester

Two-component putties - These are polyester-based compositions to which a hardener must be added before use. The advantages of this type of putty are that it:

• does not shrink;
• has a high degree of adhesion to the surface;
• heat resistant;
• easy to apply.

On the construction market, polyester putties are presented in the following versions:

• Finishing or finishing. They provide sealing of cracks, dents and scratches, at the same time maximally leveling the coating.
• Fine-grained composition. This option is used to eliminate small cracks and irregularities.
• Medium-grained and coarse-grained. Such mixtures can be filled big holes and dents, they can be applied both to a clean surface and to one previously treated with putty.

Manufacturers of building materials produce putty mixtures for metal in the form of powder (reinforced metal) and fiberglass. The first ones are resistant to vibrations; they should be used on flat surface, the latter are capable of repairing through holes, noticeable irregularities and large dents; this kind of mixture is not resistant to shaking and mechanical influence.

The main advantage of polyester putty is that the unused part of it, to which no hardener has been added, can be stored further until the expiration date indicated on the packaging and will not become unusable. Hardener and base must be stored separately.

Advice! If you need a high-temperature putty for a metal surface, choose from a range of polyester blends that have heat-resistant properties.

On the video: how much hardener should be added to the putty.

Epoxy

Epoxy putty for metal is also two-component. It has the following advantages:

• high strength;
• anti-corrosion properties;
• resistance to chemical influences;
• minimal shrinkage after hardening;
• can be applied even in a thick layer;
• high adhesion to any type of coating;
• long period of use;
• the ability to apply over old coating without priming;
• economical cost of the material;
• the drying time of the composition is relatively fast (about 8 hours);
• Easily sanded with tools.

Nitro putties

Nitro putty is a composition based on one component that is immediately ready for use. The material is easy to putty on metal parts, but has shrinkage of up to 15%. The mixture is used to seal small scratches and dents. The coating layer is applied at a time no more than 1 mm, so the area is coated a couple of times. Before starting puttying, it is recommended to prime the surface.

In nitro putty, the main volume of the mass is occupied by the special fillers that are included in it. Fillers can be neutral powders or fibers that increase volume. The type of composition depends on the filler; it can be:

• Fine grained. Makes the surface smooth and almost without pores.
• Coarse grain. It has high strength, which makes application difficult.
• Powder reinforced (steel or fiberglass). This type is the most durable; even through holes can be sealed with this putty.
• Lightweight. Needed to fill large holes without enlarging the parts being restored.

The texture of nitro putties can be paste-like (applied with a spatula) or liquid, which is applied with a brush.

Pentaphthalic

Pentaphthalic mixtures have a noticeable shrinkage of 3 to 5% and are suitable for removing minor damage. This kind of putty for metal needs to be applied very thin layer to avoid cracks. In addition, pentaphthalic putty requires drying at temperature conditions up to +80°С.

In the video: Novol putties - which one to use where.

Before you start puttingtying a metal surface with your own hands, you need to decide on the type of mixture that will be suitable in this case. However, among the variety of putty materials for metal, the most popular is a mixture with an epoxy composition.

After purchase the required material There is a step-by-step process:

1. The first step is to prepare the coating well, remove rust and dirt, degrease and prime. If used epoxy mixture, you can do without a primer.
2. A certain amount of putty that will be needed for the job must be mixed with a hardener. After thoroughly mixing the base until smooth, you can begin puttying.
3. Using a thin spatula, apply the mixture to scratches, dents or existing holes in the metal. The excess is carefully removed with the same spatula so that there are no flaws.
4. When the putty solution hardens on the plane, it must be sanded with sandpaper soaked in water. The result will be smooth and flat surface, ready for powder painting in the desired color.

Plastering specialists metal coatings recommend the following:

• Before starting the work process, be sure to read the instructions from the manufacturer, first of all, pay attention to the timing of application and the purpose of the putty for a specific coating.
• It is better to prepare the putty mixture in batches so that you have time to use the required volume before it hardens.
• The surface that requires treatment must be clean and free of grease. You can use a universal degreaser for this.
• The hardener and base must be mixed well according to the proportions, otherwise defects may occur during the work process.
• The mixture is applied in thin layers, if there are more than 3 layers, you need to give each layer time to dry. The polyester mixture is dried at a temperature no higher than +75 degrees, otherwise it will crack.

If you need to choose a high-quality putty mixture for working with metal parts, pay attention to its purpose and properties specified by the manufacturer.

10126 0 4

Metal putty: main types and features of their use

Greetings. In this article I will talk about what is metal putty and how is it used for its intended purpose?. I hope the topic of the article will be of interest to many, since leveling metal surfaces requires the use of special materials with mandatory adherence to the technology of their application.

Types of putties for metal and their differences

Putty for metal is a product with a paste-like, less often liquid, consistency. By applying the product to metal surfaces Small defects can be eliminated before subsequent painting.

According to the composition, putties for leveling metal surfaces are divided into the following types:

• Polyester compounds with a low degree of shrinkage and low tendency to cracking;
• Epoxy compounds- the most common, since the quality of the finished result is slightly inferior to polyester analogues, while their price is lower;
• Pentaphthalic compounds- characterized by low cost and high degree shrinkage (average 5%);
• Nitro putties— differ in even greater shrinkage compared to pentaphthalic analogues, and therefore are used to level out minor relief.

Conventionally, all of the listed compositions can be divided into:

• One-component— just open the package, mix and you can apply;
• Two-component— are sold in the form of a base and a hardener, which must be mixed until homogeneous.

What to choose - one-component or two-component formulations

Among the listed modifications, only nitro putties do not require mixing with a hardener. But this composition has more disadvantages than advantages.

For example, such a leveling mixture dries quickly upon contact with air, and therefore, after opening the package, it is better to use it immediately and not leave it for later. In addition, nitro putty, despite fast drying, is characterized by the most intense shrinkage (up to 15%).

Now a few words about two-component compositions. It is enough to add the required amount of hardener to the base, mix thoroughly and the putty is ready. That is, you can prepare exactly as much leveling agent as you need, and not worry about the remainder in the jar drying out.

The most common example of two-component compounds are epoxy putties, which, after drying, have virtually no shrinkage. The problem with epoxy resin mixtures is that they take a long time to dry. That is, if the vertical or inclined surface, the putty flows down. To prevent the formation of smudges, fillers such as crushed chalk or talc are added to the composition.

A less common two-component composition is polyester putty for metal, which is characterized by low shrinkage and, as a result, the absence of microcracks when drying. Polyester putty in combination with fiberglass allows not only to level depressions on metal surfaces, but also to seal through holes. For greater resistance to vibrations and vibrations, metal powder is added to the mixture.

Modern domestic means for leveling metal and their markings:

• PE-00-85 - polyester putty for metal consists of a base (unsaturated polyester resins, fiberglass and metal powder) and a hardener;
• E-4022 and EP-0010 - epoxy putties with the possibility of adding chalk talc or kaolin to prevent the product from running off vertical surfaces;
• PF-002 is a pentaphthalic putty recommended for smoothing out minor defects in metal surfaces;
• NTs-007 and NTs-009 – nitro putty without adding a hardener.

Classification according to order of application

The instructions for leveling metal surfaces consist of two main steps:

• filling – rough leveling when deep relief is filled;
• finishing – final leveling for painting.

In accordance with these stages, all putties can be divided into filler and finishing mixtures. How do these mixtures differ from each other, besides their immediate purpose?

Since the function of filler putty is to fill deep relief, the product contains components with a coarse-grained structure. Large filler fraction provides a whole series benefits, including:

• Cheaper product, since the cost of producing coarse grain filler is more affordable than the cost of producing fine paste;
• Ensuring better adhesion with subsequent layers, since the filler forms a rough surface when drying;
• Simplicity and short terms of leveling the relief, since large grains fill the unevenness faster.

The composition of finishing putties includes components with fine grains. This is an elastic paste that is easy to apply and very thick to grind.

The difference between finishing putty and filler is that it is applied in a thin layer of no more than 1 mm. Finishing agents can be used both to form the top leveling layer and to independently level small defects.

There is a separate variety on sale - universal putties for metal, which level the relief, but do not require the application of finishing paste. The use of such tools is optimal if the time for processing defects is limited. On the other hand, the use of such means rarely provides high quality finished result

Overview of varieties of SOLID brand putties

Why SOLID? The choice is not accidental, since most auto body shops use materials of this brand. Therefore, it will be useful to know exactly what will be used to repair the dent on the body of your car. In addition, the quality of the components of this brand in the Russian Federation is considered standard.

Filling putty containing glass fiber “Glas”

The composition is different mechanical strength and high filling capacity. The product is applied in thick layers, which means it is possible to eliminate even deep unevenness.

Despite its high strength, this composition is not elastic enough. Therefore, it is not recommended to use this putty on large surfaces where sheet metal bends (center of door, roof, hood). Ideal areas for application are sills, arches, pillars and other strong, and therefore static, body elements.

• filling deep relief to level the surface;
• filling cavities to strengthen metal stretched after damage;
• filling through holes caused by corrosion;
• filling through holes in areas of metal deformation.

The presence of long fibers in the putty affects the process of mixing the base with the hardener. Mixing is carried out not by chopping, but by circular movements from the edges of the container to the center. Mixing is done manually, since the use of attachments on power tools is not recommended.

Putty containing aluminum particles “Alu”

“Alu” is a high-temperature filler containing aluminum particles, widely used in body work when smoothing out defects on surfaces subject to heat and vibration. That is, with such compounds you can level the hood, trunk and roof without fear that the surface will crack over time.

Despite the fact that putty belongs to the category of fillers, it is characterized by a fine-grained structure and, along with filling large defects, can be used to bring the surface to zero. Unlike most coarse and medium-grain putties, the composition with the addition of aluminum powder does not chip in the edge zone (in the area where the putty and unputty surfaces combine).

Among the significant advantages of the putty, I note the low degree of shrinkage. The presence of aluminum powder makes the drying of the laid mixture uniform over the entire thickness, while reducing the intensity of evaporation.

In addition, the pot life (the period during which the product is suitable for use after mixing) is 8 minutes, which is twice as long as similar parameters of other putties. This means that in one batch of the product you can work with twice as many surfaces as usual.

Lightweight filling putty “Leicht”

"Leicht" is optimal choice for working with large surfaces. Many craftsmen are faced with the problem of metal becoming heavier after applying putty in a thick layer. When the increase in surface mass should not be noticeable, it is recommended to use lightweight compounds marked “Leicht”.

Such compositions are approximately 30% lighter than conventional analogues without compromising the strength of the finished result. The low weight of the applied putty is ensured by microscopic fragments of glass, which are used as the main filler.

By the way, this leveling mixture is easy to grind. For example, if when grinding epoxy and polyester putties it is necessary to perform micro-tears in the resin, then in the case of a lightweight composition the encryption process is reduced to the destruction of microscopic glass particles.

Medium grain filling putty “Full”

The most common type of materials for rough leveling of metal surface defects. After hardening, the composition is easily removed with a grinder.

If deep defects are being eliminated, you can apply the product over unsanded fiberglass putty. For maximum quality of the finished result, after sanding, the leveled surface is leveled with fine-grained putty.

“Full” type putties can be applied over various metal surfaces with the exception of galvanized or aluminum products. If you still need to use this type of putty on galvanized or aluminum, the surface must be treated with anti-corrosion epoxy primer.

Finishing fine-grained putty “FEIN”

This composition has a semi-liquid consistency, due to which it is not only easy to apply, but also practically does not form pores on the surface. The product can be used as a closer after applying coarse putties, but, if necessary, can be used independently to fill small dents and scratches.

In addition to the listed items, the range of putties of this brand includes universal remedy Multi and liquid primer-filler Spray.

The listed designations are relevant for SOLID brand products, but are also used as universal designations for products from other manufacturers. For example, in the NOVOL line of putties there is an analogue of the Glas mixture containing glass fiber, but in this case the product will be called Fiber Glas. The situation is similar with the products of other brands, despite the fact that the composition of the products has a similar basis.

Answers to frequently asked questions

How to mix putty correctly?

Mixing is carried out in three stages:

• The putty base is removed from the can and applied to a smooth plastic or metal plate;
• A hardener is added to the main component in a ratio of 1 to 10;
• Both components are mixed with a spatula.

Cracks in putty most often form from insufficient mixing. In order for the leveling composition to acquire a homogeneous consistency, mix in two directions, that is, crosswise.

When to use prepared two-component putty?

It all depends on the amount of hardener. For example, if you mix the mixture in a proportion of one part of the hardener to ten parts of the main component, the life of the putty will be from 4 to 6 minutes. Accordingly, more hardener means a shorter lifespan of the finished product.

Can putty be used for exterior use?

Most professional leveling agents are used at a temperature of at least 18°C; moreover, for uniform drying, the filler layer must be heated.

Therefore, if the temperature outside is not lower than +20°C, why not putty outside the garage? If the street is colder than +15°C, then the use of putties outside a closed heated room is excluded.

How to make metal putty with your own hands?

First, decide why you need to do anything yourself. If the reason is to save money, then if the leveling is done poorly, you will have to redo everything, and this will cost more than buying normal factory putty.

I heard that garage craftsmen used to mix small aluminum filings into epoxy resin. The result was a homemade putty, which was not inferior in strength to the factory products of that time.

It is a suspension of fillers and pigments in a solution of targeted additives, organic solvents and epoxy resins.

Designed for leveling surfaces: metal and non-metal. Surfaces can be primed or simply cleaned. Epostat putty can be used as a primer for paints and varnishes.

Epoxy putty is resistant to gasoline, mineral oils, detergents, has high water resistance. Sands well.

Operating temperature ranges from –50 °С to +120 °С.

Dries quickly enough to degree 4: At t +20 °С- per day. At t +65 °С- for 7 o'clock.

Purpose

Epostat-Putty used as an intermediate or first layer in coating systems for products used in aggressive industrial atmospheres and indoors.

It is applied to products and equipment in petrochemical, chemical, oil refining, nuclear, pharmaceutical, food and power plants, in automotive and shipbuilding.

Tara

Container 27kg, 60kg.

Directions for use

Putty should be applied to metal under the following conditions:

• Temperature +5°C and above.
• Relative humidity less than 80%.

Clean unprimed surfaces from grease, oil, dirt, mill scale, rust, old paint. The degree of visual cleanliness should be Sa 2½ according to ISO 8501. A universal degreaser can be used to remove oils OM-01S.

To obtain a working composition, it is necessary to mix two components: the base ( Component A) and hardener ( Component B). The hardener is supplied complete. First, use a low-speed drill with an attachment to stir Component A for two to three minutes. Then pour in the hardener and stir the mixture for at least 10 minutes.

If necessary, add diluents to the composition: R-5A, R-5, R-4. Introduce them only after mixing components A and B!

After mixing, the metal putty should settle 20-30 minutes.

The composition is applied with a spatula or pneumatic sprayer. When spraying, the working viscosity of the material should be 18-20 sec. by viscometer VZ-4.

Viability ready mixture at t (20±2) °С:

• 1.5 hours when applied with a spatula.
• 6 hours when applied by air spray.

Drying time to degree 4: up to 24 hours at t +20 °С or until 7 o'clock at t +65 °С.

The dried layer is sanded. Then another layer of putty or paint and varnish materials can be applied to it.

Pay attention!

The total thickness of the coating is no more than 1000 microns!

Consumption

1. Up to 650 g/m² - application with a spatula, layer thickness 350 microns.
2. 120-290 g/m² - spray application, layer thickness 60-150 microns.

Precautions

Provide good ventilation while working indoors. After finishing work, ventilate the room. Use artificial satellites.

Storage

Components A And B putties should be stored in a tightly closed container at a temperature between –30 to +30 °С. Do not heat, protect from direct sun rays and moisture.

If Epostat-Putty was stored in the cold, before use leave it for 24 hours at t (20±2) °С.

Guaranteed shelf life in original packaging - 6 months from the date of manufacture.

Divided into three types:

Polyester putties (PE-00-85), based on unsaturated polyester and hardener. They have a good degree of adhesion to the surface and slight shrinkage (0.5%). The fiberglass included allows you to seal large holes, and the metal powder helps create a coating that is resistant to vibration.

Epoxy putties (EP-0010, E-4022), consisting of epoxy resin and hardener. Durable putty for metal, has a minimal degree of shrinkage (0.1%). Has excellent adhesion to any type of surface. To prevent dripping from a vertical surface, it is recommended to add chalk, kaolin or talc. Epoxy putties harden in 15-20 minutes, and final drying occurs within a day.

Pentaphthalic putties (PF-002) are used to restore minor defects in the metal surface. The putty has a significant degree of shrinkage (3-5%). When filling metal, the layer should be up to 0.5 mm to prevent cracking. Thick putty requires long drying (up to 24 hours) at a temperature not exceeding 80 degrees Celsius.

Nitro putties (NTs-007, NTs-009), do not contain hardeners, have a high degree of shrinkage (15%), are used to eliminate minor scratches and minor damage. To improve adhesion, the surface must be primed using nitro putty. Can withstand drying high temperatures(90 -100 degrees Celsius).

Putty for metal St. Petersburg JSC LKM ServicePlus

Today, domestic putties are divided into the following types:

• Pentaphthalic. They have noticeable shrinkage (3-5%) and are suitable for repairing minor damage. These putties require prolonged drying at temperatures below 80°C. To avoid cracking, they need to be layered up to 0.5 mm.
• Epoxy. They are the most common and have high chemical resistance, while having minimal shrinkage - 0.1%, and can also be used on any type of surface that is subject to adhesion. But, before using them, you should add a little kaolin, chalk or talc to them to avoid swelling from vertical surfaces. They harden in 15-20 minutes, but it takes about a day to dry completely.
• Polyester. These metal putties are used as a base of unsaturated polyester resins and a hardener as the second component. Their main advantage is low shrinkage (up to 0.5%), as well as good adhesion. They are excellent for sealing large holes, and with the help of metal powder added to their composition, they make it possible to obtain perfect combination with the base material and good resistance to future vibrations.

Our company sells putties on mutually beneficial terms. Among huge assortment paint and varnish materials offered by us, you can order not only putties, but also varnishes, paints, enamels, etc.

Catalog of putties >>>

Primers and putties for metal

Primers are designed to improve the adhesion of subsequent paint layers to the surface, as well as to slow down corrosion processes. When creating a long-lasting coating, the correct primer material is one of the main tasks. All primers for metal are divided according to their purpose: primers for ferrous metals, primers for rust, primers for non-ferrous metals. The most common primers used in schemes for long-term protection of metal and protection of metal in aggressive conditions are primers containing an epoxy binder.

Puttying of the metal surface is carried out only when necessary, to repair minor surface defects.

VINIKOR® - ECOPRIME-01 with corrosion inhibitor for ferrous metals. VINIKOR® EP-0199 Epoxy primer with corrosion inhibitor for ferrous metals. VINIKOR®-061 Vinyl-epoxy primer with a corrosion inhibitor for coating systems operating in aggressive chemical atmospheres. VINIKOR®-MARIN Primer Epoxy primer for corrosion protection metal structures, operating in the sea, fresh water and atmospheric conditions. VL-02 Interoperable polyvinyl butyral primer for metals, replacement for phosphating. Welding on primer is allowed. VL-023 Interoperable polyvinyl butyral primer for ferrous metal, replacement of phosphating. Welding on primer is allowed. GF-021 quick-drying Alkyd primer for ferrous metals. Quick drying FL-03K Phenol-formaldehyde primer for ferrous metals. XC-010 Copolymer primer for acid-alkali-resistant coatings. EP-0010 Epoxy putty resistant to gasoline and oils for leveling surfaces, and also as a primer for epoxy materials

Putty and putty. what kind are there for metal? car body (tin) repair.

Note: Words putty And putty- absolutely identical in meaning and both are correct in spelling.

If small dents, cavities or irregularities appear on the body, then to eliminate these defects they usually do not remove the entire body part, but fix it using putty. This allows you to significantly save time and money on car repairs. But in order for the repair to be high-quality, you need to understand the types of putties and use them. (We will talk below not about construction putties, but about “automotive putties”, intended mainly for application to metal surfaces).

There are putties (based on):

1. Polyester two-component. Before work, a hardener must be introduced into the bulk of the putty; The bulk of putties on the market are polyester.

They have a small shrinkage (0.1%), can be applied in different layers, dry quickly and are well processed “dry”. They have fairly good adhesion to various materials.

Restrictions: Cannot be applied over anti-corrosion primers, paint coatings, plastic materials.

There are putties:

Finishing or finishing. They provide a very smooth surface, seal small pores, cracks, and dents after sanding with a coarser putty.

Fine-grained. Eliminate minor defects and irregularities. They are perfectly processed and are used for transition areas when puttingtying severe damage.

Medium-grained and coarse-grained. Fills large dents and holes. directly onto steel, old paintwork, old putty, fiberglass.

Polyester putties are often produced with fiberglass reinforced or metal powders. The former are used to seal through holes, deep dents and irregularities. But they are not very resistant to vibrations and mechanical stress. The second ones, on the contrary, are resistant to vibrations, but are used only on a solid surface. As a rule, when repairing a surface made of a certain metal, putty with a filler made of the same metal is also used. There are also special putties for repairing plastics, in particular bumpers, linings, and plastic car fenders.

2. Epoxy putties(also two-component);

They have very high strength, anti-corrosion and chemical resistance. Small shrinkage (only 0.1%) allows you to apply fairly thick layers. Epoxy putties have excellent adhesion to any type of surface, even painted. Putties can be easily processed with abrasive tools.

3. Nitro putties, single-component and ready to use immediately. Nitro putties (or nitrocellulose). They are easy to use, but have quite a large shrinkage (up to 15%). Only sealing small irregularities, scratches, and chips is used. They form a layer of approximately 0.1 mm and are applied in several layers. It is advisable to use primary primers.

The bulk of the putty mass is created by fillers. These are, as a rule, neutral substances, powders, fibers intended to create volume and reinforce the putty base. Typically, glass fiber, metal powders, and minerals are used as fillers.

Depending on the filler used, there are:

Fine-grained putties that give a smooth surface, practically without pores and cavities;

Coarse-grained, having both pores and shells. Coarse-grained putties are stronger than fine-grained putties, and because of this they are more difficult to process.

Reinforced with metal powder or glass fibers. The hardest putties used to seal even through holes in metal.

Lightweight fillers. For sealing large volumes without significantly increasing the weight of the parts.

The consistency of putties can be paste-like (applied with spatulas) or (applied with a brush or spray).

Putties differ in the method of drying (natural, with heating or infrared radiation) and in the method of processing (dry, or “wet”, with moistening).

General instructions for applying putties.

Before choosing a putty, you need to understand exactly what and how you will do and choose the putty accordingly. Before use, you should study the instructions for use, especially regarding the life of the putty and its ability to be applied to a particular surface. You need to prepare the putty in portions that you are guaranteed to be able to use during the “survival” period.

The surface should be free from rust, dirt, grease-free and dry. There should be no flaking elements

The putty and hardener must be mixed very thoroughly and the proportions must be maintained. If necessary, you can use any measuring instruments or disposable syringes. Otherwise, either excess hardener may appear on the surface of the putty, or a significant loss of strength of the putty. Putties with filler should be mixed very carefully, avoiding uneven distribution of the filler.

To prevent the formation of cavities in the thickness and on the surface of the putty, the putty should be applied in thin, dense layers of 2-3 mm. If there are more than 3-4 layers, the putty is allowed to dry.

When drying polyester putty, do not overheat it. Otherwise, there is a possibility that it will crack. The maximum drying temperature is 70-75 degrees.

If the putty has been processed and sanded wet method, do not rush to apply subsequent layers or topcoat. It is imperative to give time for the moisture to evaporate. Otherwise, it will be preserved in the putty and will subsequently damage the coating.