Making and installing a wooden fence with your own hands allows you not only to save effort and money, but also to logically complete the design ensemble of the site. As a result, here, under the reliable protection of an attractive and durable fence, an atmosphere of genuine home peace, warmth and comfort will immediately settle. But the construction of a fence made of wood - a very capricious material - requires thorough preparation. And it’s best to start with a fascinating acquaintance with the variety of constructive and design solutions. After all, making a choice will not be difficult at all.
Wood in the construction of fences: advantages and disadvantages
Wood is an inexpensive and convenient material for technical processing and decoration, which is traditionally used in the construction of fences for private areas.
Despite the availability of more durable and practical material solutions - European picket fences, metal, corrugated sheets, brick or stone - the demand for wooden fencing will always be high.
The reason for this is the list of advantages of wood, which includes:
- environmental friendliness;
- unique decorative qualities;
- wide selection of textures and shades of wood species;
- ease of processing;
- ease of installation;
- easy replacement of structural elements of the fence during operation;
- low cost.
Wood is an environmentally friendly natural material that combines perfectly with other building materials and can harmoniously fit into any solution for the design of a fenced area. For the construction of a wooden fence, one, maximum two pairs of working hands are enough and does not require the presence special knowledge, skills and tools. It is noteworthy that wooden fences are much cheaper than brick or metal ones, and their construction takes much less effort and time. And most importantly: a wide variety of wood species, as well as construction and decoration methods, open up the widest scope for design ideas not only during construction, but also directly during the operation of the fence.
Along with its advantages, wood has a number of disadvantages, which must be taken into account when choosing this material.
The disadvantages of wooden fences include:
- Fire hazard.
- Low resistance to climatic factors.
- Attractive to pests.
- Susceptibility to rotting.
- Short service life (about 10 years).
To partially compensate for these shortcomings, wood used in construction must be treated with a fire retardant, antiseptic and pest repellent. In addition, the material must be reliably protected from moisture, dampness and sudden temperature changes. All this entails additional costs of money and time both at the construction stage and during the operation of the fence.
Good to know: In practice to increase service life wooden fencing apply various methods. So, in order to prevent the support posts (if they are made of wood) and the picket fence from getting wet and rotting, their upper ends are closed with plugs made of plastic or other suitable material. For the same purpose, the lower edge of the fence is placed at a height of at least 15 cm from the soil level. Finally, during the operation of the fence, it is necessary to regularly mow the grass growing nearby, not forgetting to carefully monitor the condition of the transverse joists and the points of their attachment to the supports.
Diversity, types
Thus, the construction of a fence can be carried out for the purpose of:
- marking the boundaries of the territory;
- ensuring privacy (protecting what is happening inside the perimeter from prying eyes and ears);
- protection against unauthorized entry;
- reducing the intensity of external noise or wind load;
- fencing potentially dangerous areas (roads, cliffs along the banks of rivers and reservoirs, steep slopes etc.);
- decorative design of the site.
In accordance with the purpose of the fence, its design is selected, which can be:
- Deaf.
- Lattice (with gaps).
- Combined.
When choosing the type of fencing structure, you should not forget about its design. The fence must fit into the existing landscape and harmoniously combine with the design of objects located in the fenced area.
The most widely used options for the design of wooden fences are:
- "classic";
It is a simple solid or ventilated structure with metal or wooden supports, installed by butting or on concrete, with crossbars made of wooden beam and cladding made from standard edged boards.
- picket fence (vertical or horizontal);
The cladding for such a fence is a picket fence - a thin strip with a straight or beveled upper end. Sheathing can be installed both vertically and horizontally with or without clearance.
- lattice;
The cladding of a lattice fence consists of equally wide slats (slats) installed crosswise vertically, horizontally or at an angle of 45 degrees. The slats are mounted with a gap or closely at the same distance from each other or in groups, which allows you to create decorative pattern fence fabrics.
- “chess” (deaf or clear);
A complicated version of a picket fence with a blind or ventilated cladding arrangement in a checkerboard pattern on both sides of the fence. Elements of checkerboard cladding are installed with a slight offset in a vertical, horizontal position or diagonally across the canvas.
- ladder (herringbone);
The cladding elements of such a fence are mounted with clearance or overlap at a certain angle along the longitudinal axis (vertically or horizontally). The rotation of the fence boards is ensured using calibrated spacers.
- network;
The fabric of a wicker fence consists of thin slats or vine branches entwining vertical or horizontal edges load-bearing frame. Braided fabric is quite difficult to manufacture, but provides high resistance to force and has bright decorative qualities.
- palisade;
The palisade fence is a solid canvas made of logs with ends pointed upward. Such fences are difficult to overcome and, moreover, to break; moreover, they provide complete privacy of the area inside the perimeter of the fence, as well as excellent sound and wind insulation.
- log paving;
A log fence is assembled from tightly fitting horizontal logs. The latter can be solid or sawn along the longitudinal axis. Log paving represents a serious barrier for intruders and provides reliable concealment of what is happening inside the fence perimeter from prying eyes and ears.
- "ranch";
Fencing open type, the web of which consists of several crossbars, additionally fastened with lags located diagonally. Ranch fences serve to mark boundaries private territory or protection from the penetration of large animals, although they can also perform decorative functions.
- "cross".
The supports of such a fence, installed in most cases on a separate or strip concrete base, are equipped with side grooves into which longitudinal cladding elements are inserted - fence boards or beams of appropriate thickness. Another version of the cross-style fence has a horizontal sheathing that is attached to vertical crossbars supported by support posts and a concrete foundation.
This is not the entire classification. Thus, fences of the “vertical picket fence” group are found in such varieties as:
- solid palisade;
- palisade with gaps;
- cat or dog ears;
- private;
- peak;
- concave or convex, etc.
Good to know: In practice, combinations are often used various types structures, which gives the fence an original appearance, and in some cases additional resistance to force.
Original designs in the photo: decorating a cottage or private home
Wooden fence along the road 
Deaf wooden fence with functions of protection and ensuring privacy of the territory 
Wooden fence with combined cladding 
Fence made of decorative vertical picket fence 
Concave vertical picket fence 
Solid fence made of horizontal picket fence 
Horizontal log fence in combined style 
Rounded wooden picket fence as part of a convex wooden fence 
Cross-style fence with brick support posts 
Ranch Style Fence for Enclosure summer cottage 
Wooden fence with horizontal log sheathing 
Wooden fence in the “solid picket fence” style 
Wooden fence with wicker structure
Preparation for construction
The construction of a wooden fence, like any other object, begins with design. To solve this problem, you will need a cadastral plan of the fenced area, where the perimeter of the latter is indicated. If you don’t have a plan at hand, you will have to carry out the measurements yourself.
The perimeter value is the basis for further design, so it must be calculated with maximum accuracy. The obtained data should be transferred to a pre-drawn scale diagram of the site. In the future, this will facilitate the task of calculating the size and number of sections of the fence, as well as creating a working sketch of the latter.
Territory marking
To mark the area for the future fence, you will need wooden or metal pegs about 60 cm long, twine (or linen rope) and a hammer. The first step is to set the corner marks by driving pegs into the ground.
The next step is to determine the location of the gate and entrance gate. As a rule, they are placed together. The standard width of the gate is 1–1.5 m, and the size of the gate is accepted in the range of 2–2.5 m, but in practice it all depends on the needs of the owner of the site.
Please note: When marking the territory, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the supports, and if they are planned to be installed on a foundation, then its width. To do this, you need to use 2 rows of marks - along the outer and inner edges of the support columns or foundation.
Upon completion of the design surveys, the results obtained should be transferred to the plan of the fenced area. This will allow you to see the big picture and quickly eliminate mistakes made during planning.
What materials to choose?
The next step after developing the basic plan is the selection and calculation of materials for building the fence. To do this you need:
- decide what material the support pillars will be made of;
- accept the method of mounting supports;
- calculate the main parameters of the fence (number of supports, section sizes and number of transverse logs);
- determine the material from which the casing will be made;
- calculate the volume of the sheathing (the number of fence boards 1.8 m long);
- determine the method of installing transverse joists and sheathing, as well as select the type and calculate the number of fasteners.
The choice of material for support pillars is simple: the most preferable option is a metal profile pipe with a cross section of 60*60 mm (for corner supports) and 50*50 (for intermediate posts). Proper preparation for operation and competent installation will ensure the service life of such supports for at least 30 years.
If the soil in the fenced area belongs to the category of inactive, i.e. when the seasons change, its layers practically do not move, and groundwater lies at a great depth (below 1.5 m), the supporting pillars of a wooden fence can be installed by backfilling or partial concreting.
Finally, it is advisable to use wooden beams with a cross-section of at least 40*40 mm as transverse logs for a fence with a section length of 2.5 m and a leaf height of 1.8 m.
Calculation
When designing, you should take into account a number of design requirements that apply to wooden fences. Strict compliance with these requirements will allow you to create a truly reliable, strong and durable fence.
Basic design requirements:
- The section size should not exceed 2.5 m to avoid sagging of the transverse joists under the weight of the skin.
- The support pillars are installed in the soil to a depth equal to the freezing depth of the latter (80–120 cm), but not less than a quarter of their total length. When choosing a method for installing supports, you need to take into account the level groundwater, as well as soil composition, which affects the behavior of the soil when the seasons change.
- To give the fence the necessary reliability and stability, the corner supports, as well as the side posts of gates and gates, must be thicker than the intermediate ones.
- The bottom line of the fence should be at least 15 cm above the soil level.
- Support posts must be at least 10 cm higher than the fence.
Good to know: If there are uneven areas or a slight slope on the site, it is advisable to level the soil. This will greatly simplify the task of installing the fence structure.
The calculation of fence parameters is carried out in several stages:
- Suppose the site has the shape of a trapezoid with bases measuring 29 and 40 m and sides measuring 25 and 20 m. The perimeter value is calculated by summing all sides of the figure:
P = 29+40+20+25 = 114 m;
- If the gate and gate are installed side by side on the line of the small base of the trapezoid, the length of the fence on this side of the site will be the difference between the total length of the segment and the total width of the gate and entrance:
l 1 = 29 - (1.5+2.5) = 25 m;
- In this case, the total length of the fence will be:
L = 25+40+20+25 = 110 m;
- Now you can count the number of fence sections, each of which is 2.5 m long:
n sections = L/l sections = 110/2.5 = 44;
- Having the exact number of sections, we calculate the number of support pillars using the formula:
N supports = n + 1 = 44+ 1 = 45;
Please note: The corner supports and posts on the sides of gates and wickets must be thicker than the intermediate ones. Their number is 6 pieces - 4 at the corners of the site and 2 at the entrance and gate. Accordingly, the number of intermediate supports will be equal to: 45 - 6 = 39 pcs.
- Next, you need to calculate the height of the support pillars. With a soil freezing depth of 80 cm, a fence height of 1.8 m, and also taking into account the requirements for the height of the supports, it turns out that the total length of each of them will be:
L supports = 1.8 + 0.1 + 0.15 + 0.8 = 2.85 m;
- The last step in the preliminary calculations is to determine the number of transverse fence joists. If we take the height of the latter to be 1.8 m, each section will need 2 crossbars. Thus, the total number of lags will be:
n lag = n sections * 2 = 44 * 2 = 88;
As a result of the calculations performed, we obtain exact quantity structural elements of the fence:
- 39 intermediate supports;
- 6 corner supports;
- 88 cross joists.
At this point, the main calculations within the fencing project can be considered completed. To start the practical implementation of the project, all that remains is to select the cladding material and calculate its volume.
Which boards to choose for cladding?
The choice of fence cladding depends on the design style of the fence, as well as on the method of protecting the wood. As a rule, for external fences with predominantly protective function Coniferous species are selected - pine, spruce or cedar.
If design priority appearance The fence was given over to its decorative qualities; for cladding, deciduous wood - oak, beech, ash and birch - is much better suited. The strength indicators of such a fence will be low, but with correct processing it will look very expressive.
Cedar is one of the most expensive and rare coniferous species. It is distinguished by the presence of a bright and beautiful texture, as well as high wear resistance.
As for oak fences, they are rare - their construction is too expensive.
Other types of deciduous and coniferous trees Although they have good flexibility and fracture strength, they do not withstand moisture well, so they are practically not used in the construction of fences.
The most accessible and cheap wood is pine and spruce. It is densely saturated with resin, which is an excellent protection against dampness, mold and rot, and has an optimal humidity for outdoor use (15–20% when properly dried). Spruce wood is softer than pine, so it is easier to cut. But in terms of knotiness of the material, spruce species are undoubtedly the leaders: in pine the knots begin at a considerable height, while in spruce they start almost immediately from the ground.
Please note: If spruce or pine is chosen for cladding a wooden fence, you should prepare in advance for the fact that these species exhibit an increased tendency to cracking. Spruce and pine wood owes this to the nature of the fibers and the abundance of knots. This means that the material needs to be purchased with some reserve, since some of it will inevitably go to waste.
Calculation of fence cladding
The last step before going to the building materials store is to calculate the number of fence boards needed to create the fabric of the fence being built. This value is calculated as follows:
- First you need to take the amount of clearance between the pickets. Let's assume it will be 4 cm.
- We measure the width of one fence board. Let it be equal to 15 cm.
- The length of one section of the fence is known - it is 2.5 m, i.e. 250 cm. If the boards were installed closely, it could take 16 units per section. But with a 4 cm clearance, this number can be safely reduced to 13.
- Let's check the correctness of our choice. The total width of the boards will be: 13*15 = 195 cm. Then the width of the gaps between the boards (taking into account the fact that there will be 1 more gaps than the picket) will be equal to: (13+1)*4 = 52 cm. Together it will be: 195 + 56 = 251 cm, which differs by only 1 cm from the length of the fence section, and this value can be easily compensated by increasing the size of the extreme gaps by 0.5 cm.
- We calculate the number of boards required to cover the entire fence (without gates and wickets): 13*44 = 572 pcs.
Good to know: A standard wooden picket fence has a thickness of 1.5 - 2.5 cm. This value is important when calculating the volume of boards required for cladding the fence. So, with a fence height of 180 cm, a board width of 15 cm and a thickness of 2 cm, the volume of the cladding will be: 180 * 15 * 2 * 572 = 3,088,800 cm 3 or almost 3.1 cubic meters.
Construction tool
Preparing for the construction of a wooden fence includes collecting tools that will significantly simplify and significantly speed up the work. The following should be included in the list:
- jigsaw;
- circular saw with metal discs;
- welding machine;
- wood hacksaw;
- electric drill with a set of drills for wood and metal;
- shovel and crowbar;
- garden earth drill;
- hammer and pliers;
- set of screwdrivers and wrenches;
- electric plane;
- sandpaper for wood;
- brushes for treating wood with protective composition and paint;
- building level and plumb line;
- measuring cord (twine);
- construction tape.
Please note: During the construction of the fence you will definitely need fasteners. For a simple fence, you can use galvanized nails, but a much more durable option would be self-tapping screws or bolted connections. It is noteworthy that for the latter you will have to prepare through holes in the picket fence and transverse joists in advance.
How to make a wooden fence with your own hands: step-by-step instructions
The construction of a wooden fence can be divided into three stages:
- Installation of support pillars.
- Installation of crossbars.
- Frame covering.
Each of them deserves a more detailed description.
Installation of supports
Let's assume that the soil in the fenced area allows the installation of fence support posts using the backfill method. Let's look at how this is done using the example of one of the supports:
- Using a garden auger, a crowbar and a shovel, we make a hole in one of the corners of the site with a depth of 1–1.2 m and a diameter of 40–50 cm.
- Place it at the bottom of the hole and compact it thoroughly. sand cushion 10–15 cm thick.
- Place a support in the center of the hole. This is a square profile pipe, the outer edges of which must be parallel to both arms of the fence.
- Add a mixture of crushed stone and sand to a height of 20–25 cm at the bottom of the hole and compact it thoroughly.
- We check the verticality of the support and the parallelism of its edges to the fence sleeves.
- We fill in the next portion of the cushion from sand and crushed stone, compact it and check the position of the support again. And so on until the very top of the pit.
Good to know: During the backfilling process, the sand-stone cushion will fit more tightly if it is moistened with plenty of water, not forgetting to add sand.
Installation of cross beams
Fence crossbars made of wooden beams are most conveniently mounted using homemade brackets. They are made from a metal corner 35*35 mm. But in order to save time and materials, you can simply buy ready-made brackets in a store.
The lag is installed as follows:
Please note: The distance between the logs can be reduced if necessary, but this will negatively affect the strength of the fence along the upper and lower edges of the canvas. The support should be at least 5–10 cm above the sheathing, and the bottom of the latter should be no less than 10–15 cm from the soil line.
Frame covering
Before we begin installing fence boards, we note that there are at least two ways to solve this problem. One is that the picket fence is mounted on the logs before installing the latter on the supports:
- The first thing you need to do is set the crossbars at the required distance from each other, maintaining a single plane. This can be done using pre-prepared stands from scrap materials.
- It doesn’t hurt to make templates in advance that are convenient for laying out gaps between the boards.
- It also doesn’t hurt to place the lower (or upper) edge of the canvas under the ruler. As such, you can use any of the remaining crossbars, positioned at the required distance from the one being mounted.
- Using self-tapping screws or bolts, we mount fence boards on cross beams. In this case, you need to ensure that there is no deflection or any other stress in the structure of the canvas.
- We lift the finished fence sheet and fix it with bolts to the previously welded brackets. This will require at least two pairs of working hands. In addition, you will have to prepare stands 10–15 cm high. With their help, it will be much easier to fix the canvas with lags on the brackets, which is necessary for the successful installation of the structure on the bolts.
- If the fence boards were installed without deforming the crossbars, and the latter were aligned accurately, their ends will easily fit onto the brackets.
Please note: The second way to install the sheathing is to install each board separately. With this approach, it becomes more difficult to place the fence boards in a strictly vertical position and at an equal distance from each other, and it also creates tension in the structure of the canvas due to the deflection of the crossbars under the weight of the sheathing.
Protection and finishing: how to cover and paint
Wooden fence used outdoors all year round. This means that all structural elements need reliable protection from moisture, temperature changes, pests, rust and fire.
Good to know: Metal elements fence frame, especially in areas with welded and bolted connections, before installation it is necessary to prime and paint. Before starting the main work, it also does not hurt to remember that the legs of the support pillars installed on the ground require additional waterproofing. It can be done with roofing felt or bitumen. But first to isolate the internal space profile pipe It is necessary to weld plugs onto its lower and upper ends.
In addition to humidity, harmful microorganisms and pests, the life of a wooden fence is reduced. ultraviolet radiation. It accelerates the oxidation of wood fibers and evaporates the moisture contained in it. As a result, wooden fencing elements lose not only their visual appeal, but also their load-bearing capacity. To prevent premature wear of the structure, it is recommended to use special additives - UV hardeners - when applying impregnation.
The impregnating composition is laid in several layers on the primer deep penetration. Primed and impregnated wooden surfaces are covered with moisture-resistant varnish or paint, which serve as the finishing touch to protect the fence from aggressive operating factors.
Please note: Primers and impregnations change the color of the wood, which must be taken into account when designing a wooden fence.
The condition of the wooden fence must be closely monitored throughout its entire service life. Any damage or material wear should be repaired immediately, which will significantly increase the service life of the structure. As for the choice of design method for a wooden fence, it depends on many factors, the main ones being the aesthetic preferences of the owner of the site and his financial capabilities. For example, a finished fence can be decorated or even strengthened by forging, given an original color by experimenting with impregnations and finishing coatings, decorated with glass or stone inserts, etc. At the same time, you can decorate the fence gradually, the main thing is to reliably protect it from destruction by moisture, pests and fading in the sun at the very beginning.
Video: Building a wooden fence yourself
Building a wooden fence with your own hands requires careful preparation. Even at the design stage, you need to thoughtfully study the building materials market and try to determine the conditions under which the fence will be used. With careful attention to basic design requirements, as well as the vagaries of the base material self-construction fence will take a minimum of effort and bring maximum pleasure and benefit.
The construction of a beautiful fence is the logical conclusion of home ownership, protection from the indiscreet glances of others and decoration of the site. The decision to make a wooden fence with your own hands, despite its cheapness, requires preparation and accurate calculations.
Wooden fence: advantages and disadvantages
Wood is one of the most attractive materials for making a fence, however, it is capricious in operation, and the durability of a fence made of this material largely depends on the choice of type of wood.
For making the most simple picket fence Usually they choose coniferous wood, which is cheap and less susceptible to rotting. Of course, no one will forbid making a fence from oak or beech, but such a fence will cost a pretty penny.
Advantages of wood:
- Environmental friendliness;
- Availability of material;
- Low cost;
- Ease of processing and installation;
- Highly decorative.
Disadvantages of the material:
- Fragility (of some breeds);
- Tendency to cracking;
- Rotting in conditions of high humidity;
- Fire hazard;
- Pest infestation.
Since some of the shortcomings can be eliminated with various impregnations, wood is most often chosen for fencing.
Types of wooden fences
For thousands of years, wood was the only building material; our ancestors accumulated vast experience in using wood for various purposes, including for fences.
The figure shows the most common designs of picket fences, but this is the most simple design made of boards - a picket, in addition to it made of wood:
- wattle fence;
- plank;
- pole;
- palisade;
- panel;
- ranch.
With a little imagination, any of these fences can be made the hallmark of the site, and when explaining the way to guests, the neighbors will say: this is where the fence is beautiful (unusual, stunning, unique)!
Examples of options in the photo
A low fence opens up the children's playground on the property to the neighbors' view 
A fence made of boards arranged in a checkerboard pattern blocks the view of the site 
A weave of boards placed at an angle can serve as a support for climbing plants 
Walking past such a fence, you can’t help but smile 
The picket pattern is made in such a way that short dies create a high fence 
A picket fence, supplemented with end cuts of wood, becomes a solid fence 
Mirror film glued to pickets turns an ordinary fence into an art object 
There is no place for pests in a garden with such fences
Preparing for construction
Even something as seemingly simple as fencing a site with your own hands requires:
- preliminary familiarization with regulatory documentation;
- project development;
- determining the need for materials;
- budgeting.
Current standards
Standards for the construction of fences for dacha plots are prescribed in SP 53.13330.2011 “SNiP” 30–02–97* “Planning and development of territories of gardening (dacha) citizen associations. Buildings and structures":
- Fences between areas should have a height of no more than 1.5 m, mesh or lattice;
- By decision general meeting members of the partnership, the fencing of the site on the side of the street or driveway can be solid, but not higher than 2.2 meters;
- The distance between the fence supports is 2–3 meters;
- Each rack requires a point foundation with a depth of 0.8 to 0.9 meters;
- Recommended racks - made of metal rectangular pipes cross section 4x6 centimeters.
In addition to the general requirements for the state, local authorities may introduce their own standards, so before starting design it is advisable to consult the regional service in charge of the general plan.
Design
Having decided on the requirements, you can begin designing. The basis for the project will be a cadastral plan of the site indicating the boundaries. According to the plan, calculate the total length of the perimeter and the size of each side separately. These dimensions will allow you to calculate the number of fence sections and the size of additional sections. A scale diagram of the site indicating all dimensions is drawn on a separate sheet of paper. Don't forget about the entry gate and the entrance gate.
When constructing a wooden fence, experts recommend making the distance between the supports no more than 2.5 meters, since as the span increases, the deflection of the horizontal crossbars increases, which can cause deformation of the structure.
On the drawing of an ordinary section of the fence we put all the dimensions, including the underground part of the pillar
A drawing is also being developed for an ordinary section with a height of one and a half meters.
Having decided on the type of fence, draw a separate typical section of the fence to scale, including the foundation for the support, with all dimensions.
The bottom line of the fence should be raised 10–15 cm above ground level, the posts should exceed the fence by 10 cm or more.
We accept pipes with a cross-section of 60x60 mm for corner supports, gate posts and wickets, and intermediate pipes of 40x60 mm. If the soil is neutrally acidic and the groundwater level is below one and a half meters, the racks can be installed using partial concreting or backfilling. In this case, the racks are buried into the soil to a depth of 0.8–1.2 meters, but not less than a quarter of their total height.
Material selection
From the huge number of types of wood for fences, it is best to choose coniferous species:
- they grow everywhere;
- due to the structure being saturated with resin, the wood is resistant to humidity and solar radiation;
- have low cost.
Of course, you can make a fence from ash or oak, it will be more durable than a fence made from spruce or pine, but such a fence will cost a pretty penny. Best choice- larch, the most resistant to moisture of all coniferous species, having an adequate price.
If desired, except edged boards, the fence can be made from cheaper materials - slab or unedged board. Also available materials may be useful - sawmill waste, dead wood, pallets (pallets), old door panels or window frames.
You should use old pallets with caution: they are often made from hardwood, such as birch, which does not tolerate moisture and rots in the air.
Calculation of material requirements
Calculation of the required amount of materials is carried out based on geometric dimensions plot. Suppose the site has square shape size 30x30 meters, with three sides fenced with a picket fence 1.5 meters high, on the driveway side there is a blind fence 2 meters high, with a gate 2.5 meters wide and a wicket 1 meter wide. Soil freezing depth 1.4 meters, aquifer at a depth of 3.3 meters.
Based on the size of the site, we determine the need for materials
Racks made of pipe with a cross section of 60x60 mm and a height of 3.0 m
Fence length along the driveway
L1= 30–(2.5+1)=26.5 m
Number of racks
L1: 2.5 + 1+2 =26.5: 2.5 +3= 13.6
Since we have an additional section, we take the number of racks equal to 14.
To seal the ends of the racks you will need a strip 100 x 4 mm, 100 mm long, with a total length of 9.8 m.
The total length of the picket fence with a height of 1.5 m:
The number of racks made of pipe with a cross section of 40x60 mm and a height of 2.5 m will be:
L2: 2.5 -1 = 90:2.5 - 1 = 36 –1= 35 pcs.
Horizontal logs are made from boards with a section of 40x100 mm in length:
L3= 2.5 – 0.07 = 2.43 m
The number of logs is equal to the number of ordinary fencing sections multiplied by two:
(12 x 3 + 10) x 2= 92
For an additional section 1.5 m wide, two 40x100 boards 1.43 m long are needed.
We attach the logs to metal corners from a 30x3 profile, each 60 mm long, the total number is 94 pieces, equal to the number of logs.
For a fence 1.5 m high, we take planks 10 cm wide, 22 mm thick, 1.35 m high with a gap of 4 cm between the planks, 17 pickets will be required per row section, total quantity:
17 x 46 +10 = 792 pcs.
For a blind fence 2 m high, planks 10 cm wide, 1.85 m high, and 25 mm thick are needed. Their quantity will be 25 pieces. per section, total:
25 x 11 = 275 pcs.
In addition, you will need self-tapping screws for attaching the corners to the posts and crossbars to the corners, and nails for attaching the picket to the crossbars.
For foundations based on the depth of pits 1 m with a diameter of 40 mm, 6 - 6.5 m3 of crushed stone will be required.
Wood volume:
- Boards 40x100 mm - 92 x 2.5 x 0.1 x 0.04 +2 x 1.5 x0.1 x 0.04 = 0.94 m3
- Boards 100x22 mm - 1.5 x 0.1 x 0.022 x 792 = 2.38 m3
- Boards 100x25 mm - 2 x 0.1 x 0.025 x 275 = 1.38 m3
Metal volume:
- Racks 60x60 - 3.0 x 14 = 42 m.p.
- Racks 40 x 60 – 2.5 x 35 = 87.5 m.p.
- Angle 30 x 3, length 60 mm - 94 x 0.06 = 5.64 m.p.
- Steel strip 100 x 4 – 9.8 m.p.
Wood will require impregnation and paint or a complex composition that protects the wood from pests, adverse weather conditions and fire. Metal requires a layer of soil, waterproofing for the underground part of the racks and a protective coating.
Since fence boards do not perform any work, the selection of thickness is determined by flexibility. From experience it is known that for horizontal boards - a log, a section of 100 x 40 mm is sufficient; for a picket height of 1.5 m with two fastening points, a board 22 mm thick is suitable; for a height of 2 m, a board 25 mm thick is suitable.
Required Tools
To complete the foundations, you will need a garden earth drill or you will have to dig holes 1–1.2 meters deep and 40 cm in diameter manually.
The toolkit includes:
- Jigsaw;
- Circular saw with discs for working on metal;
- Welding machine;
- Electric planer;
- Electric drill with drills for metal and wood;
- Wood hacksaw;
- Hammer;
- Pliers;
- Screwdrivers;
- Universal wrench;
- Construction level, horizontal and vertical;
- Roulette;
- Cord or twine;
- Brushes.
Installation of fencing, step-by-step instructions for DIY construction
Fencing the site is carried out in several stages:
- Preparation of racks;
- Installation of picket fence sections;
- Marking the actual fence;
- Earthworks;
- Installation of racks;
- Installation of fencing.
There is another installation method, when all elements are fixed in place sequentially, without preparation. This method has a right to exist, however, it will take more time, and it is inconvenient to mount corners for attaching lags to an installed rack.
1. Preparation of racks
For each rack, in accordance with the drawing, for ordinary racks, two corners are attached to self-tapping screws on the long sides, for corner posts- on two adjacent sides. Plates - plugs - are welded to the ends of the racks. Welds cleaned, the racks are covered with primer, then paint.2. Installation of picket fence sections
Pegs or reinforcement are driven into the place where the corner posts are installed.
A cord or twine is pulled along the perimeter of the area between the corner pegs. Using a tape measure, determine the installation locations of row racks.
4. Excavation work
Using a garden drill, we make a hole 1 - 1.2 m deep for corner posts and fence posts along the driveway, and a hole 0.8 - 1 m deep for the remaining posts. We pour sand in a layer of 0.1 - 0.2 m at the bottom of the hole and compact it well.
5. Installation of racks
We waterproof the underground part of the racks by wrapping them with bitumen-polymer material on mastic or covering them with a special waterproofing compound for metal. We install the racks, fixing them in the recesses using pieces of reinforcement or corners. We fill the crushed stone with a layer of 20 - 25 cm, check the verticality of the support, compact it, and moisten the layer with water. We repeat the operation until the pit is leveled with the ground surface.
6. Installation of fencing
We install prepared fence panels. If the posts are installed correctly, at the required distance, height and without distortion, the fencing sections are mounted without problems. The fence joists are installed on corners fixed to the posts and screwed with self-tapping screws.
7. Painting the fence
Painting and protecting the fence wood can be done in different ways, which are the subject of the next section.
Materials for protecting and tinting wood
Until recently, stain, drying oil and PF-115 paint were offered for protecting and painting wood, but now the store shelves with such products are running wild. Wood coloring should have the following qualities:
- Resistance to low and high temperatures, precipitation, wind;
- Resistance to sunlight;
- Resistance to pests, rot and fungus;
- Durability;
- Fire safety.
The following compositions are offered for protection and tinting:
- Paints;
- Enamel;
- azure
- Belinka, Slovenia;
- Tikkurila, Finland;
- ALPINA, Germany;
- Teknos, Finland;
- AQUATEX, RF;
- Yaroslavl paints.
In order for the fence to serve for a long time, you will have to work hard: the processing takes place in several stages:
- Cleaning from dirt,
- Grinding;
- Dust removal;
- Primer with a complex composition that gives the wood fire resistance, resistance to rot and fungus;
- tinting.
There are many options for painting a picket fence; if you wish, you can add your own method to the existing ones.
Any owner suburban area Quite rightly, he is trying to fence off his possessions in some way. Thus, the construction of a fence is always included in the list of priority tasks, and it is often started to be installed even before the construction of the main house begins. There are a great many design options for such fencing. But despite the very wide range of materials offered for sale, both general construction and specifically designed for the construction of fences, wooden fences remain one of the most popular.
Wooden fences have been used for centuries and have proven their practicality. True, fence supports were and remain a weak point - wood quickly succumbs to biological decomposition from constant contact with the ground, and the life of wooden posts, alas, is short-lived. But nothing in our time prevents us from finding a more thorough solution. So, for example, a wooden fence will last much longer metal poles. It is these types of fences that will be discussed in this publication.
Wooden fences are considered the most short-lived. After all, not everyone knows (or does not want to know) the secrets of wood and its processing.
A neo-treated pine fence will indeed last no more than 10 years, and then only if reliable waterproofing the bottom of the pillar. If you are making temporary fencing for the period of construction and improvement, then this is a completely justified decision.
It’s another matter when wood is chosen as a building material not because of its cheapness, but because of its design capabilities. After all, wood is considered the most malleable decorative processing material.
This is what the fence looks like from the first photo from the side of the yard. Agree, no less attractive...
Pay attention to the outline of the boards: how much “attention” was paid to each of them, how carefully the edges were worked out and the corners were smoothed... The photo shows sliding gates all in the same yard.
And there are so many design techniques: firing, tinting, aged effect, combination with forged overlays, and finally, just perfect sanding and coating with yacht varnish.
Design options for wooden fences are given at the end of the article.
Having invested labor (or money) in creating a masterpiece of wooden architecture, you want to admire it for as long as possible. Therefore, there are a number of important points that the owner of the estate should know.
Pledge OF LONGEVITY
For the fence, choose those types of wood that are characterized by high density: Siberian larch, oak, mulberry, acacia, aspen, alder, ash. By the way, a fence made of Siberian larch can be called eternal - on the contrary, the wood of this tree grows stronger when it comes into contact with water.
Limit the use of pine to creating a fence panel - if it wears out quickly, it is not difficult to replace it. Under no circumstances should you install a fence made of birch - it is the most unstable wood.
Support pillars for a wooden fence they can be wooden, metal or made of masonry.
The last two options will serve as a reliable support for many years. But don't write off the tree. It doesn't have to be buried in the ground.
To extend the service life, you can use special metal consoles (stands), which are concreted, and then a wooden beam is attached to them (see link on the side).
The most vulnerable part sawn wood - the one where the cut is made across the grain. A horizontal arrangement of boards or a protective canopy over vertical ones will help extend the life of a wooden fence.
Wood is vulnerable when it comes into direct contact with air: when it is wet it swells and is affected by fungus; too dry it causes it to crack. Risks can be reduced through mandatory treatment: impregnation with an antiseptic plus painting with special dyes ( Swedish paint, yacht varnish, impregnated with hot drying oil).
SWEDISH PAINT
- iron (copper) sulfate – 260 g,
- red lead – 260 g,
- table salt – 260 g,
- rye flour – 580 g,
- drying oil or linseed oil – 240 ml,
- water - about 4.5 l.
Composition consumption is approximately 200-300 ml/m2. Color – golden. If you require a different shade, then red lead can be replaced with ocher or manganese peroxide.
Prepare the coloring composition as follows: mix flour with 3 liters of water and boil the paste, pass it through a sieve to avoid lumps, put it back on the fire and add iron sulfate and salt, stirring constantly until the vitriol is completely dissolved, continuing to stir, pour in small portions first oil (drying oil) then water (until a liquid homogeneous consistency is obtained).
The paint must be applied immediately because it thickens quickly. Therefore, it is better to work with two or three people, or divide the composition into smaller portions and prepare it as it is used.
WOODEN FENCE FRAME
The pitch of the support pillars is 2-3 m.
As supports, choose a round or square beam with a cross-section of 100x100 mm or a metal pipe with a cross-section of 40x40, 40x60, 60x60 mm (with a wall thickness of 2 mm), for gates 80x80 and 100x100 mm (with a wall thickness of 3 mm). The wider the support spacing and the greater the load (weight and wind), the larger size and wall thickness.
So, for a fence-blind with a two-meter section, choose the minimum parameters from the above, for a solid one, and even with forged overlays, the maximum.
If there is no choice of lumber (wood species), then budget pine is carefully treated with protective chemicals, and the posts must be installed on a concrete base.
For horizontal crossbars, use a beam with a cross section of 30 (enough) x 50 (and wider) mm.
To mount wooden crossbars on a metal pole, “ears” with holes for fastening are welded to it. To avoid welding during installation, you can purchase ready-made posts with fasteners.
The cladding (shield) is covered with a board 25 mm thick. The width varies depending on the design.
Everything else technological sequence, depth and method of laying, up to chemical treatment frame, the same as for a fence made of corrugated board:
- the frame is mounted,
- paint,
- after that they stuff the shield.
METHOD OF ATTACHING THE FRAME AND BOARDS
The most durable connection will be with self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws are selected taking into account the following requirement: into the body wooden post(crossbars) should include 30-40 mm of thread.
Each board is secured with at least two screws on each edge.
There are options for a non-standard approach to fastening boards. Here is an example of a fence assembled according to the wattle fence principle. The curved board, trying to straighten itself, presses itself tightly against the support. Although, given the flexibility of wood in a humid environment, additional fixation of each board will still have to be done.
The cladding method was used for the fence in the photo above. wood siding. Begin attaching the boards from bottom to top with an overlap of 2.5 cm.
If the boards are made with a downward slope towards the street, you will get an invisible fence that will not experience strong wind loads. There are several ways to secure boards at an angle.
In the photo on the right wooden slats nailed to a rack, which, in turn, is fixed to a support post.
Another way- nail the boards from the ends. It is important to clearly mark the wooden stand. This option is relevant for a fence with metal supports. When all sections are filled along the front and back parts, they nail a board that will cover the entire “kitchen”. A wooden cap must be placed on top of the post.
Are you interested in the question of how to mount the next section if the adjacent one restricts access to it? It is simply pushed slightly first towards the street, then towards the plot (or vice versa) to fix the lamella. Attachment to metal support produced after installing adjacent sections.
Third option for wooden beam support. It makes inclined cuts-grooves into which the end of the lamellas is inserted. Each one must be screwed on with a self-tapping screw, and then a wooden overlay is made from the front part, which will hide the attachment points.
Ultimately, a wooden shutter fence will look like this. Be sure to nail the end caps to the top of the post.
Simple horizontal mount the boards look a bit boring. But if you make small (up to 1.5 cm) gaps between them, the section’s canvas will take on a more modern sound. How at the same board (within reason), the more interesting and modern the finished fence looks.
It’s also a good idea to alternate boards different widths- the main thing is that adjacent sections repeat the pattern.
Don't ignore unedged boards. Besides the fact that it costs less, it also looks more exclusive. The truth is not suitable for all site design styles. It will look win-win in a forest area.
Here is another option for a wooden fence in a brutalist style.
You will need a jigsaw, a wood carving knife, sandpaper and skillful hands to make something like this. original fence with the effect of a time-worn board.
Have you ever put together puzzles? So, to create these fence sections (pictured above), you first need to draw them and carve them out of boards. Each board of this fence has its own clear size and bend, that is, first a template is created, then cut, chamfered, sanded, and treated with protective chemicals. And only then are they brought down to the section. And how the elements are fixed to each other is the master’s secret...
For the slab fence in the photo above, all the wane was carefully selected, because it is unacceptable that some sections of the boards were too thin in thickness. The bark was removed, each plank was given piquant contours with a jigsaw, and the surface was sanded. In general, the cheap price of the material is offset by painstaking work.
I recommend copying this design exactly in relation to the original, or first creating a project (span diagram) of the entire fence, choosing an alternation of patterns. And only after making sure that the fence canvas as a whole looks harmonious can we begin implementation.
Don't get carried away with such a bright texture for everyone wooden elements yard An exclusive wins only when it is unique.
The fence serves reliable protection for home. It will warn against stray dogs or unwanted guests entering the area. Today you can make a beautiful fence from any material: metal, mesh or brick.
A reliable and economical option would be a wooden fence on metal posts, which is easy to make with your own hands.
Types of wooden fences
How to build a high-quality wooden fence cheaply, watch the video:
Fence decoration
The installed fence can be decorated if desired climbing plants. This type of decoration is suitable for all types of fences.
If the owner of the property has a romantic nature, decorating the fence with fresh roses will suit him. Roses are planted close to the fence so that they get sun rays. The distance between bushes should not be less than two meters.
Plant support carried out using a metal mesh installed by hand. The flowerbed should consist of flowers that match the paintwork.
Decorating with flowers in plastic pots will give your fence a delightful look and design flair. Pots are attached around the entire perimeter of the wooden structure with fresh flowers already prepared in advance in them.
Decorating a fence with mosaic elements- not an easy task that requires time and power loads. The whole family can be involved in this activity. Broken mirrors or tiles will be useful for this work.
The pieces are applied to the surface, representing a single composition or pattern. After completion of the work, the fence will not look like a wooden structure “like everyone else’s”, but will become the pride of the family.
Wood carving
Wood carving has always been valued and used in the construction of houses and fences. This decoration adds to the design folk color and originality. The most common carved fence is with lace.
To create it, you will need a pre-prepared drawing on paper, which is subsequently transferred to wooden surface. Best used for carving thin wood, from which the drawing will be cut.
A novice master should limit himself simple image so as not to create additional difficulties when cutting.
After drawing the design, begin cutting. For craftsmen who are fluent in using a jigsaw, such a task will not present any particular difficulty.
A wood saw needs fine teeth.. She will provide flat surface along the edges of the product. If blots are still made in the work, they can be rubbed off with sandpaper.
When creating a pattern on the surface of a fence, craftsmen often use the technique of geometric carving. As pattern elements use circles, triangles, diamonds and other shapes.
The work of creating geometric patterns is labor-intensive. However, they are quite doable even for novice builders. Cut out patterns using a sharpened wood knife. This type of fence decoration refers to Russian folk art.
Cutting contour edges will add volume to the fence. With this type of carving you can give free rein to your imagination and creative thoughts. The design in such a composition does not matter; it can be anything.
The work is done entirely by hand. The volume effect will be enhanced if you use one color at the edges and add a more saturated shade in the middle.
Types of decorative fences
Decorative fences have various variations. The most common:
Install decorative fence It’s not difficult if you know the basics of technology and the rules for doing the work.
