Everyone knows that stain is used as an antiseptic material for wood. After this powerful protection The service life of wood is extended by 2 times. This product has a liquid consistency. It gives the tree not only a brown color, but also different shades. It is used as a dye. This DIY wood paint is made at home without expensive ingredients.
Stain recipes
There are no expensive components in the tinting liquid recipe. Plants, coffee, and chemical components are used. These are elements that you can work with to make paint at home.
Staining wood with plant components
- Light tree species acquire a red tint after they are treated with a strong decoction of onion peels.
- A birch product will be painted with the same shade if it is treated with a decoction of larch bark.
- The wood turns brown after applying a solution made from walnuts.
Dry the shells in a dark place. She comes out in a slightly rotten state. When the shell is dried, it is ground into powder. A decoction is prepared from it, which is filtered when ready. Soda is added.
- If the wood is brown (after walnut) an additional solution of potassium dichromate is applied, the result will be wood with a red tint. Chemical component diluted in water.
- Applying diluted vinegar gives the wood surface a gray tint.
- An infusion of buckthorn fruits will give the wood a yellowish tint. Unripe ones are collected. If alum is added, the coloring effect is yellow intensifies.
- A decoction of oak bark or alder covers the wood black.
A rich brown color is obtained after treatment with a stain made from the following components:
- Nut shell powder. Replaced with apple bark powder;
- Willow bark powder;
- Ground oak bark;
- Alder earrings;
- Baking soda – 1 tsp.
Plant components are mixed with soda and diluted with water. The mixture is simmered over low heat for a couple of minutes. The prepared composition is cooled and filtered. The stain is ready for application.
Useful video on the topic:
Coloring composition of tea, coffee, vinegar
- The color of the wood depends on the concentration of the brewed tea. The coloring substance is theanine, which is included in its composition.
- Baking soda mixed with ground coffee beans is used for toning. Instead of stain, the surface is treated with concentrated instant coffee.
- Vinegar solution stains wooden surface in red.
To prepare such a solution in a glass container, nails or any metal parts (previously degreased) are completely covered with vinegar. In this state they are stored in a dark place for a week. The duration of oxidation affects the saturation of the shade.
The stain is applied in a room with good ventilation or outdoors since the strong smell of vinegar is strongly audible.
- If concentrated tea (with theanine) or a decoction concentrate from oak bark (replaced with nuts) is added to vinegar, then the wood covered with a stain of this composition is painted anthracite black.
Stain with chemical components
- Juice combinations from wolf berries with different acids they paint the surface black and other colors.
- Juice tandem with baking soda gives a blue color.
- A scarlet tint will appear after adding Glaubert's salt.
- Appearance brown will be after combining with copper sulfate.
- Tree species with theanine and oak will turn brown if they are coated with slaked lime. After it, the nut surface will turn brown-green.
- Light wood species will turn yellow after applying a decoction of barberry root and alum (2%). Barberry root is replaced by poplar shoots. In this case, the yellow will be more saturated. The stain is prepared in advance, 7 days before use.
Recipe Ingredients:
Poplar shoots – 150 gr.;
Water – 1 l+1 l;
Alum – 2%.
Water with poplar shoots is brought to a boil, alum is added. Boil the mixture for 60 minutes. The finished broth is filtered. Infuses for 7 days. After this, homemade wood paint is ready to use.
- If a concentrated oak decoction is added to the finished decoction of poplar shoots, the stain will color the wood green.
- A mixture of vinegar and verdigris powder (60 grams) will appear green. Moreover, this will not happen immediately. The wood is soaked. Boil vinegar and copperhead for 15 minutes.
- The recipe for stain with theanine is widely used. At the first stage wooden product covered with a mixture: soda ash (75 g) + carbonate (35 g) + water (1 l). At the second stage, after the surface has dried, a solution is applied: theanine (50 g) + water (1 l). Color appears after 60 minutes.
- The color of dark oak is obtained after applying the mixture ammonia with water. You need to work with this stain carefully. Dyeing is carried out outdoors at an accelerated pace, since the composition quickly loses its coloring properties.
If the wooden product is small in size, then it can be placed in a tightly closed container and filled with the mixture. It is kept for 2 hours, after which it is taken out. The mixture is washed off from painted wood.
Finnish and Swedish paint recipes
Homemade paint applied to exterior walls wooden house. Finnish and Swedish recipe dyes allow the wood to “breathe” and protect it from moisture and weather conditions.
The cooking technology is the same. Paints differ in their constituent elements.
Components of Swedish dye:
- Flour – 1,160 kg;
- Iron sulfate - 0.52 kg;
- Salt – 0.52 kg;
- Dry lime pigment – 0.52 kg;
- Drying oil – 0.48 kg;
- Liquid – 9 l.
Elements of Finnish composition:
- Flour – 0.72 kg;
- Vitriol – 1,560 kg;
- Salt – 0.36 kg;
- Dry lime pigment – 1.56 kg;
- Liquid – 9 l.
Descriptions of preparing paints according to Finnish and Swedish recipes are circulating on the Internet. Has anyone tried painting anything with them? What is the result? If there are no answers, I’ll try to paint the piece of wood myself when it gets warmer and report back. Just what is dry lime pigment and where to buy it?
Recipes:
It is better to follow the wise experience of the Finns and prepare a special composition for coating wood.
Take 720 g of rye flour, 1560 g of iron sulfate, 360 g of table salt, 1560 g of dry lime pigment, 9 liters of water.
When preparing the solution, it is important to follow the technology. Flour is added to 6 liters cold water and stir until you get a homogeneous mass with the consistency of thick sour cream. The paste is filtered and put on fire. Stir constantly, add salt, then iron sulfate and dry lime pigment. The remaining 3 liters of water are boiled and added to the resulting composition.
The consumption of such “paint” is 300 g/sq. m. Apply to wood twice. If your building or fence was previously painted with oil paint, it will have to be completely cleaned off.
After this painting, your building will last for 20 years without external repairs! Finnish composition for coating wood, unlike oil paint more durable and breathable.Swedish recipe
To protect the wood, it is enough to paint the house just once. The wood will be reliably protected, and scraps of paint will not irritate you. True, the “color” will fade over time, but that’s another conversation. Let’s make a reservation right away: you can only paint with this composition clean wood, that is, wood that has not been painted before, or plaster. No pre-treatment no need to carry it out.
Here is the lineup from Sweden. Just please, don’t take any liberties with the numbers. Do it exactly as it is written.
So: rye flour - 580-600 g, table salt - 250-260 g, drying oil - 240-250 g, iron sulfate - 250-260 g, red lead - 250-260 g, water - 4.5 liters. Dry pigments can be used to create different shades. The natural color of the composition will be yellowish.
The cooking technology is simple and accessible to everyone.
Pour rye flour with 3 liters of water. Place on low heat. While stirring, prepare the paste, making sure there are no lumps. When the paste forms a homogeneous mass, without removing from the heat, add salt and vitriol and continue to boil until the crystals are completely dissolved. Then add the red lead and knead the mixture until completely smooth.
Finally, pour in the drying oil, stir again and bring to the working volume (i.e. add another 1.5 liters of water), again without removing from the heat. The prepared solution is used for coloring immediately, while warm. After a while it will begin to thicken, then you will have to dilute it warm water, which is generally undesirable, because when the solution “liquefies” the paint layer will become less durable.
It is more convenient to cover wooden surfaces with this solution with a brush, and plaster with a roller. Consumption of “Swedish” paint is approximately 250 g per square meter.
It is better to follow the wise experience of the Finns and prepare a special composition for coating wood.
Take 720 g of rye flour, 1560 g of iron sulfate, 360 g of table salt, 1560 g of dry lime pigment, 9 liters of water.
When preparing the solution, it is important to follow the technology.
Add flour to 6 liters of cold water and stir until a homogeneous mass with the consistency of thick sour cream is obtained. The paste is filtered and put on fire.
Stir constantly, add salt, then iron sulfate and dry lime pigment.
The remaining 3 liters of water are boiled and added to the resulting composition.
The consumption of such “paint” is 300 g/sq. m.
Apply to wood twice. If your building or fence was previously painted with oil paint, it will have to be completely cleaned off.
After this painting, your building will last for 20 years without external repairs! The Finnish wood coating composition, unlike oil paint, is more durable and breathable.
Swedish recipe.
To protect the wood, it is enough to paint the house just once. The wood will be reliably protected, and scraps of paint will not irritate you. True, the “color” will fade over time, but that’s another conversation. Let’s make a reservation right away: you can only paint with this composition clean wood, that is, wood that has not been painted before, or plaster. No pre-treatment is necessary.
Here is the lineup from Sweden. Just please, don’t take any liberties with the numbers. Do it exactly as it is written.
So: rye flour - 580-600 g, table salt - 250-260 g, drying oil - 240-250 g, iron sulfate - 250-260 g, red lead - 250-260 g, water - 4.5 liters.
Dry pigments can be used to create different shades. The natural color of the composition will be yellowish.
The cooking technology is simple and accessible to everyone.
Pour rye flour with 3 liters of water.
Place on low heat.
While stirring, prepare the paste, making sure there are no lumps.
When the paste forms a homogeneous mass, without removing from the heat, add salt and vitriol and continue to boil until the crystals are completely dissolved. Then add the red lead and knead the mixture until completely smooth.
Finally, pour in the drying oil, stir again and bring to the working volume (i.e. add another 1.5 liters of water), again without removing from the heat. The prepared solution is used for coloring immediately, while warm.
After some time, it will begin to thicken, then you will have to dilute it with warm water, which is generally undesirable, because when the solution is “thinned,” the paint layer will become less durable.
It is more convenient to cover wooden surfaces with this solution with a brush, and plaster with a roller. The consumption of “Swedish” paint is approximately 250 g per square meter.
If you need to achieve some original color of Finnish paint, you can add various inorganic pigments to the composition: finely grated red brick, evaporated decoctions of cornflower, walnut bark, sunflower seeds, etc.
I made one batch of Finnish paint...it seemed to work...it even looked like paint...I painted one experimental section of the fence and let it sit for about 3 months (in the summer under direct sun rays) the result upset me.... it was peeling in places.... anyone who has encountered this can tell me what could be the reason.
Rye or wheat flour - 1160 g, iron sulfate - 520 g, table salt - 520 g, dry lime pigment - 520 g, natural drying oil - 480 g, water - 9 l.
A paste is prepared from flour and 6 liters of water: pour the flour with a small amount of cold water and knead; the resulting “dough” is diluted cold water to the consistency of sour cream.
The remaining 6 liters of water is boiled and added in a thin stream to the “sour cream” with continuous stirring. The resulting paste is filtered and put on fire.
Salt and vitriol are poured into the hot solution and mixed. Next, add the coloring pigment and mix thoroughly again.
Then, stirring vigorously, pour in drying oil in a thin stream. At the end, add the remaining 3 liters hot water, bringing the composition to a paintable consistency.
The paint is applied to the wooden surface with a paint brush or terry brush once - evenly, in wide strokes, while rubbing in to fill all the pores and cracks.
Unpainted areas are not left, since when painting later smooth surface It won't work anymore.
Swedish paint, being quite cheap, is most often used to cover outbuildings, shingle roofs, and sometimes walls residential buildings. It is not suitable for windows and doors, since only unplaned boards are painted with it.
In the book "Encyclopedia of the Home Craftsman.5000 useful tips"Finnish and second Swedish paints are indicated.
The simplest wash is a mixture of quicklime - 1.3 kg and potash - 0.45 kg, mixed with water until creamy. This liquid mixture is applied to the old paint coating and leave for 1.5-2.0 hours. Then the mixture is washed off. In this case, the old paintwork can be easily removed.
Another recipe for effective washing is as follows: lime paste 0.5 kg, sifted chalk - 0.5 kg, caustic soda (caustic soda) - 25% solution is added until a liquid paste is formed.
The surface to be treated is covered with the paste and left for 1.0-1.5 hours. Then the paste, along with the old paint, is washed off with 1 solution of acid (hydrochloric, acetic, citric, etc.). After this, rinse with water.
The main advantages of chloroxide paint: low cost, strength and adhesion, durability. At the same time, it allows air to pass through and does not allow water to pass through.
Composition of chloroxide paint (in parts by volume):
fluffed lime - 3;
lime pigment (dry) - 0.75;
calcium chloride (dry) - 0.35;
water - 8.
Fluff lime and pigment of the required color are poured into a polyethylene container. The mixture is thoroughly mixed and poured with cold water. The solution is stirred and filtered through a double nylon stocking. Add calcium chloride and, again stirring, dissolve it completely. The last thing to add to the solution is ordinary laundry soap dissolved in a small amount of water. For a bucket of paint (12 liters) take 20-30 g of soap. The paint is ready.
Paint the walls and base (using a spray gun, brushes, rollers) in two passes. It is advisable to paint the walls and base in the evening and in cloudy (but not rainy) weather.
The brick base, painted with bright oxychloride paint, looks beautiful brick color, in which the seams are finished with chloroxide paint without pigment, i.e. white.
The following limestone (also called alkali-resistant) pigments are commercially available:
synthetic cinnabar - red,
iron lead - red-brown,
synthetic mummy - red-brown,
burnt sienna - brown,
ocher - yellow,
chromium oxide - green,
natural mummy - brown,
brown mars - brown.
Series of messages "
To prepare Finnish paint you will need the following ingredients: flour
wheat or rye - 720g; iron sulfate - 1560g; water - 9 l.
The secret of paint is not only in the composition, but also in strict adherence to technology
preparations. First, take flour and 6 liters of water and prepare a paste,
why gradually add cold water to the flour and stir until
until the flour acquires the consistency of thick sour cream. Then
The remaining water from 6 liters is poured into the paste while hot.
After this procedure, the paste is filtered and put on fire. Gradually
while stirring the mixture, add salt, then iron sulfate, then
dry lime pigment. Now to get a working painter
composition, pour the remaining 3 liters of hot water into the mixture.
The resulting paint is applied to the surface in two layers. Need
paints per square meter - 300g. The primer for this paint is not
required. The advantage of Finnish paint is not only that it is approximately
for 20 years or more you will not have any hassle with
the structure that was painted with it, but also in its hygiene.
According to the Finnish composition: table salt - 360 g, lime pigment - 1560 g.
SWEDISH COMPOSITION:
During the preparation process, alkali-resistant iron-containing pigments are used for tinting - red lead, mummy, ocher, umber, etc. As a rule, Swedish paint has rich red, brown or yellow tones.
If you need to achieve some original color of Finnish paint, you can add various inorganic pigments to the composition: finely grated red brick, evaporated decoctions of cornflower, walnut bark, sunflower seeds, etc.
Rye or wheat flour - 1160 g, iron sulfate - 520 g, table salt - 520 g, dry lime pigment - 520 g, natural drying oil - 480 g, water - 9 l.
A paste is prepared from flour and 6 liters of water: pour the flour with a small amount of cold water and knead; the resulting “dough” is diluted with cold water to the consistency of sour cream. The remaining 6 liters of water is boiled and added in a thin stream to the “sour cream” with continuous stirring. The resulting paste is filtered and put on fire. Salt and vitriol are poured into the hot solution and mixed. Next, add the coloring pigment and mix thoroughly again. Then, stirring vigorously, pour in drying oil in a thin stream. At the end, add the remaining 3 liters of hot water, bringing the composition to a paintable consistency.
The paint is applied to the wooden surface with a paint brush or terry brush once - evenly, in wide strokes, while rubbing in to fill all the pores and cracks. Unpainted areas are not left, since with later painting it will no longer be possible to make the surface even.
Swedish paint, being quite cheap, is most often used to cover outbuildings, shingle roofs, and sometimes the walls of residential buildings. It is not suitable for windows and doors, since only unplaned boards are painted with it.
LINSEED OIL (very good for wood)
Linseed oil is a classic method of using natural preparations to treat wood types such as birch to achieve a durable, strong and moisture resistant surface. possible options:
1. Raw linseed oil, undiluted oily drying oil.
application example: Knife handle (or other product)
need to be placed in linseed oil for several days.
To do this, the knife can be placed in a jar with a screw-on lid with a thin slot for the blade, which, after placing the knife in it, must be hermetically sealed.
When the wood is soaked through, it must be wiped with a smooth, dry rag. After this, let it dry completely for several weeks. When the oil evaporates, oxidation and polymerization of the surface occurs, which after some time becomes strong and elastic.
2. Flaxseed oil diluted 50% with turpentine. A liquid prepared from linseed oil, real natural turpentine (do not use substitutes!) in a 1 to 1 ratio.
With the help of turpentine, the time for drying the wood and oxidizing the oil is reduced.
Application: (see 1). Drying time is 1-2 weeks.
3. Linseed oil with tar.
The addition of 50% tar gives the wood a red-brown tint. (apply see 1)
Use only natural tar; after use, thoroughly wipe off any remaining oil with a soft, smooth cloth.
WARNING: When using linseed oil, there is a risk of spontaneous combustion of rags soaked in linseed solution. Therefore, discard with extreme caution so as not to cause a fire!
* WOODEN PRODUCTS CAN BE WAXED, here is one of the varnish recipes:
LAC. COMPOUND:
wax - 100h
rosin - 25h
turpentine 50h (parts are indicated by weight).
Grind rosin and wax and melt, mix, then remove from heat and pour in turpentine, mix thoroughly. Coating recipes are different and here you can and should try different compositions. Another method of such folk varnish is rosin dissolved in turpentine.
* SEVERAL OLD RECIPES OF CHEAP AND DURABLE PAINTS FOR WOODEN SURFACES:
- CURD-LIME:
Equal quantities of fresh cottage cheese and slaked lime are thoroughly kneaded. A white, quickly drying liquid is formed.
It must be used on the same day because it spoils quickly.
Ocher and some other paints can be mixed into this composition. In this case, it is necessary to use as much as possible less water, since it negatively affects strength.
The paint dries very quickly and does not leave the slightest odor. Therefore, you can cover the surface with two layers in one day.
To make the paint more durable, after applying two layers it is polished with pieces of coarse cloth.
- STARCH-PAINTING:
From 10 parts by weight of wheat starch, poured with cold water, a composition is obtained whose consistency resembles thick sour cream.
Stirring constantly, add boiling water until the composition reaches the desired thickness. For greater strength, you can add 1 part of alum or borax to the warm paste.
To prepare the paint, zinc white and any colored paint, vegetable or mineral, are added to the still hot paste.
Then zinc chloride is dissolved in water and a small amount of tartaric acid is added to it.
Before use, mix the first mixture with this solution. Amount of material and proportions of great importance don't have. Paint is applied in the usual way. It is not flammable and is not afraid of dampness and cold water, but hot water can be washed off with soap.
- POTATO PAINT:
Take 1 kilogram of potatoes and boil it. Peel while it is still hot and add 4 large mugs of water. After this, you should mash everything into porridge and rub through a sieve so that there are no lumps left. Add 1.5 kilograms of powdered chalk, which is pre-diluted in 4 cups of water. The result will be about 8 mugs of grayish, durable, well-covering and very cheap paint.
All these paints have been tested and give excellent results.
* PROCESSING OF WOODEN (etc.) PRODUCTS:
1. To prevent the wooden product from cracking and crumbling into pieces, it was boiled for 1-2 hours in a solution of ash alkali. After this, they dried it, and, if necessary, continued processing of thinner parts.
ASH LYKE is an ancient recipe of our ancestors, used both for washing woven products and for processing wooden products.
The lye is made simply - firewood (birch is best) is burned to the state of white ash (ash). Ashes (ash) are filled with water, into which, during soaking, all alkaline groups of substances pass. After this, the sediment can be used to fertilize the soil (it is not dangerous for plants, since it does not contain “soap”), and the water can be used for washing or for treating wood products.
2. In a strong decoction of crushed OAK BARK, our ancestors either boiled (for a couple of hours) or soaked (for a day) products not only made of wood, but also all kinds of wicker - from bast, flax, hemp, reed... Tannins strengthened the product so much that, for example, ropes and ropes increased their strength by an order of magnitude.
In any home, paint is a necessary attribute. Especially with the onset, after a long winter, any owner has a lot of work associated with painting various household items. But what if you have to paint a lot? You can't buy a lot of store-bought paint. This article will answer this question. It shows two cooking methods - the so-called Swedish and Finnish.
So.
What are both Swedish and Finnish homemade paints used for?
Firstly, they are well suited for painting exterior wood precisely because in this case It is undesirable to use oil paints, much less synthetic ones. When covering wood with oil paint, it is not possible to “breathe”, which will lead to undesirable consequences.
Moreover, under the layer old paint Microorganisms that destroy wood may well multiply. Why do they paint with oil, you ask? Yes, because it protects the house from the effects of precipitation.
Secondly: Swedish and Finnish paints also do not allow moisture to pass through, but at the same time they allow you to breathe without clogging the pores of the wood.
Thirdly, homemade paints are not only much cheaper, but also more durable.
Only one condition must be strictly observed: it is necessary only on dry wood, on which there are no traces of oil paint, and freshly planed wood must be deresined.
Wood can be deresined with a 5-10% solution of soda ash heated to a temperature of 40-60 degrees. The surface of the wood should be wiped with the solution 2-3 times and then rinsed with warm water.
What to do if the boards are already painted with oil paint?
You need to mix 1.3 kg of quicklime and 0.45 kg of potash in water until creamy, apply the mixture to the old paintwork, leave for 1.5-2 hours and rinse off.
There is another recipe: 0.5 kg of lime paste, 0.5 kg of sifted chalk, diluted in a 25% solution of caustic soda (caustic soda) to a liquid paste and cover the surface to be treated for an hour and a half. Rinse off with a 1% acid solution (hydrochloric, citric, acetic acid are suitable), and then with water.
Now about how to prepare the paint.
Both Swedish and Finnish compositions are the same in terms of preparation technology, differing only in the components and their quantity.
For Swedish paint take:
flour - 1160 g,
iron sulfate - 520,
table salt - 520,
lime pigment (dry) - 520,
natural drying oil - 480 g
water - about 9 liters.
To prepare the Finnish paint composition:
flour - 720 g,
iron sulfate - 1560,
table salt - 360,
dry lime pigment - 1560 g,
water - about 9 liters.
First, a paste is prepared from flour and 6 liters of water.
The flour is kneaded in a small amount of cold water, breaking up all the lumps, diluted with more water to make it like sour cream, and brewed with boiling water, stirring constantly. Boiling water - the remaining water from 6 liters. It is worth straining the paste and putting it on the fire, and then adding salt, vitriol, pigment, stirring all the time. At the end, pour in drying oil in a thin stream, and then add the remaining 9 liters of water (hot), bringing the mixture to paint consistency.
You need to paint with warm paint and preferably in the afternoon. You can use both a brush and a roller - whichever is more convenient. The main thing is not to let the paint cool down so that it does not thicken, since when heated and diluted again, it somewhat loses its strength. Enameled dishes - for cooking, plastic - for small portions already during painting.
Lime pigments different colors are commercially available, they are also called alkali-resistant.
Here is some advice on how to test a pigment for alkali resistance, which is especially recommended to do with green pigments.
To do this, dilute 5-6 g of fluff lime in 0.5 liters of water. In another container, 5-6 g of chalk are also diluted in 0.5 liters of water. Add 2-3 g of the tested pigment to both solutions, mix thoroughly and leave for two to three days. After time, the colors in both jars are compared: if they are the same, then this pigment is stable and suitable for use in the Swedish or Finnish mixture.
I think in the spring many people are concerned about the high cost of paints. And you need to paint fences, gazebos, wooden structures terraces So why not use the above recipes and switch to homemade, very cheap and environmentally friendly paints?
