The story of a book about citrus crops. Rooting cuttings (video) Is it possible to grow a tangerine from a twig

Rooting- it's very simple and easy way citrus fruit propagation. Unlike vaccination, we do not need to search suitable rootstock or wait for active vegetation (for bark grafting) and does not require specific skills. But there are also disadvantages to rooting before grafting: sometimes one bud is enough for grafting, while for rooting you still need to have a branch with 3-7 buds, and not all citrus trees root well or grow well on their own roots. That is, before you propagate citrus, you need to find out which method is best to choose: lemons, for example, take root easily, but tangerines and hybrids just need to be grafted.

General information

First you need to decide where the cutting will take root. This could be an aquarium, a homemade greenhouse, or even a zip bag. The main thing is that the container holds moisture well and can be closed almost hermetically. Our window sills are perfect for placing the container, if there are no drafts - they are always warm both in winter and summer.

A lot is written about rooting soil on the Internet: some root in coarse river sand, others in perlite or vermiculite, others prepare mixtures according to special recipes, and others use peat tablets.

Personally, I have had the opportunity to root in perlite, in store-bought soil, and in the kind that I prepare for growing citrus fruits, as well as practically in black soil. The soil, of course, is very important, but I believe that it is more important to correctly create a microclimate, where there will be a suitable temperature and humidity. Indeed, with the right combination of these components, when the cutting does not rot, it can remain green without roots for up to a year, or even more.

To root a cutting you need to select a mature twig with 3-7 leaves. The cut is made under the lower bud at a distance of about 2 mm. If the cut was made with pruning shears, then it needs trimming sharp blade- after all, the pruning shears can crush the tissue, which can lead to worse results. Bottom sheet breaks off, and, if necessary, if located close, the next one.

Do I need to trim leaves and why? Large leaves in hot sunny weather evaporate a lot of moisture, which is not very good, because our cutting should be viable right up to the appearance of roots, and not dry out after 2 days. Therefore, the leaves can be shortened by half or 2/3 depending on the size. The leaves cannot be completely removed, because this is the main “container with reserves” of nutrients, which will feed the entire cutting until root formation. Cuttings without leaves can also root, but usually much worse. Although, in good greenhouses the humidity is quite high, so the cuttings take root well even if the leaves are not trimmed. But large leaves may take up a lot of space or may not fit in small greenhouses. Therefore, this question remains at your discretion.

Below I want to show 2 options for rooting citrus fruits that I really like and practice:

Rooting in zip bags

Zip bags are probably the most convenient containers for rooting, which also take up little space, do not require much land, and you can see the first roots through the walls almost immediately:

Rooting in a mini-greenhouse

In order to make your own mini-greenhouse, a 1.5-liter bottle from mineral water. Usually there is a edging on top with a slightly larger diameter, along which we make a cut from below so that the upper part covers the lower part of the bottle well:

You can make holes at the bottom and add drainage, but lately I have done without this - the result is the same (I recommend this to those who doubt how much to moisten the soil before planting the cutting). Next, pour soil onto the bottom and moisten it well. It should be wet enough, but not so wet that there is standing water.

We select a branch from which we will take a cutting and process it, as I described at the beginning of the topic:

We insert our cutting into the ground, cover the greenhouse - and put it in a warm place - for me it’s a windowsill:

All that remains is to wait from one month or longer for the roots to appear, which will be visible through the transparent walls. The branch of Panderosa that took me the longest to take root was about 6-7 months. When roots first appear, the plant increasingly needs to be ventilated so that it gradually weanes itself from greenhouse conditions. This can be done by unscrewing the plug on certain time- what is another bonus of such a greenhouse. When the roots grow 3-4 cm, the plants can be transplanted (or better, if possible, transferred) into a pot. But do not forget that the roots are still weak and until a full-fledged root system develops, the cutting must be kept under cover with favorable conditions, like in a greenhouse.

According to the statistics of my rootings, only one of the three Meyer lemon cuttings did not take root - it tried to bloom constantly and dried up without ever taking root. All the savages of oranges and lemons took root with a bang. I have not yet had any cases of cuttings rotting. I don't practice preparations for root formation such as Kornevin, heteroauxin, etc., since all the cuttings took root well without them. But maybe this happened because the varieties were suitable for rooting. I do not rule out that in the future I may start using some kind of drug to improve rooting and perhaps they really help greatly in root formation, but at the time of writing this article I can neither confirm nor refute this due to the lack of such experience.

In general, I once again urge you, after pruning your citrus fruits, not to throw away the branches, but to root them - later they can grow into good trees or become good rootstocks.

This is the fastest and easiest method of propagation, but it is not suitable for all types of citrus fruits. It is usually used for breeding lemon and citron. The essence of cuttings is that cuttings cut from twigs from a healthy fruit-bearing tree are placed in conditions favorable for root formation. In a month or a month and a half, ready-made seedlings are obtained. The attempt of some amateurs to root a lemon cutting in a jar of water, like ficus, geranium or other easily rooted indoor plants, usually ends in failure. plants. Lemons and citrons take root only in wet sand (sometimes in a mixture of soil and sand) with high air humidity, and immediately dry out in water. In order for a lemon twig to produce roots, a whole sum of factors is required: heat, moisture, light and air.
In practice this is the case. First, prepare the greenhouse. Its size depends on the number of cuttings you have for rooting. If there are one or two of them, then the greenhouse can be built in ordinary flower pots, covered on top with a glass jar, and if there are a dozen, then in a small box covered with glass on top, and preferably with a removable side wall, or in a closed aquarium.
The tested substrate for rooting cuttings is medium-grained river sand. It is thoroughly washed, removing foreign impurities (the water is changed several times, the purity of the washing is determined by the transparency of the water), and then poured into a room greenhouse in a layer of 5-6 centimeters, leveling and compacting. Some amateurs use a mixture of sand with light (sifted) leaf humus, while others pour drainage from expanded clay or small pebbles with pieces of charcoal into the lower part of the container where rooting is carried out, a layer of earth in the middle, and a 4-5 layer of sand on top centimeters. The calculation is simple: after the formation of the first roots, the plant will immediately receive mineral nutrition.
Rooting of cuttings is favored by a temperature of 20 to 25 degrees (but not higher than 30), therefore, under the bottom of a box or pot, wrapped in an electric bandage for convenience, it is advisable to install a 25-watt electric light bulb that heats the substrate. This type of heating is needed during the cold spring months. In summer, cuttings can take root without heating.
Root formation will increase if, before planting, the cuttings are kept in a weak solution of one of the stimulants - for example, heteroauxin (per liter of water - one tablet of the drug; to obtain a homogeneous solution, heteroauxin is first diluted in a small amount of boiling water, and then mixed thoroughly). Treatment with the growth substance should take place in diffused light in a container closed at the top, with a solution poured into the bottom.

Vaccinations: regular budding, butt budding, split cutting.

Citrus fruits are easily distinguished by the shape of their leaf petioles. Lemon leaves (on the left) are almost round, without “wings”; in mandarin - underdeveloped, linear; orange - medium; grapefruit has the largest ones. The exception is, due to their hybrid origin, the leaves of Meyer and Panderosa lemons, which have underdeveloped “wings”, but they differ from tangerine and orange in the light green color of the leaf blade.

In cases where the process of processing cuttings needs to be accelerated, they use an alcohol solution of the stimulant rather than an aqueous one: for 1 milliliter of 50% alcohol, take 8-10 milligrams of heteroauxin, and to increase the effect, also 50 milligrams of vitamin C and 20-vitamin IN,. The cuttings are kept in this solution for no longer than 15 seconds.
Now about how to prepare cuttings. They are cut from annual branches. The cuttings should have 3 - 5 leaves and be 8 -12 centimeters in length. The lower oblique cut is usually made directly under or through the first bud, and the upper one is made five millimeters above the last one. Some manuals advise shortening each leaf by half - to accommodate more cuttings in the greenhouse, as well as to reduce moisture evaporation. However, from the practice of many amateurs it is clear that this should not be done: the nutrients contained in the leaves promote root formation. Therefore, it makes sense to remove only the lower leaf blade, which can rot in the sand.
Then the lower sections of the cuttings are powdered with crushed charcoal (to prevent rotting) and immersed 1.5 - 2 centimeters in damp, you just need to remove the shoots coming from the rootstock in time, otherwise they can choke the growth of the grafted branch. sand, crushing it around the stem. It is advisable that the cuttings do not crowd each other and do not touch the leaves. After planting, they should be immediately sprinkled with water from a spray bottle, covered with glass or a jar on top and protected from direct sunlight. In the future, you need to make sure that the leaves do not dry out and repeat spraying daily in the morning and evening (the water gets into the sand, so there is no need to water it additionally).
After 2-3 weeks, callus forms on the lower cut of the cuttings - a tumor-like influx from the cambial layer, and only then thick white roots appear from it (sometimes a little higher on the stem). They are very fragile, so the seedling should not be transplanted into a pot with soil before a month or a month and a half later. It is not difficult to determine the degree of rooting if you use a simple technique: take the cutting by the top and lightly pull it up - with good root formation, the roots firmly hold the plant in the sand. Before transplanting, the plant is gradually (over several days) accustomed to the outside air: the top glass or jar is removed, first for just a few hours, and then completely.
But we repeat: when transplanting, the fragile roots of citrus fruits are very easy to damage, especially when they are pulled out of a box where they grow closely. The removable side of the box to some extent helps to avoid such troubles, although it does not eliminate this possibility completely. It is safest to pry rooted cuttings and pull them out with a small lump of sand using a regular fork. You can also use another method of growing seedlings, in which even the slightest damage to the roots is excluded - in plastic bags placed in a box under glass.
Cuttings of lemons are most successful in April - June. In other summer months and early autumn it is also possible, but the rooting process is delayed. In autumn and winter, such plants may die, as they often shed old leaves before they have time to acquire young ones. And yet, you can preserve seedlings of late summer and autumn cuttings by placing them under a glass jar or plastic bag and using additional lighting with fluorescent lamps.
So, cuttings - the simplest way propagation of citrus fruits, but this sometimes causes difficulties. Here are a few more useful tips, based not only on personal experience, but also in the practice of other amateurs, as well as on the recommendations of scientists.
For cuttings, the rapid healing of tissue on the lower cut and the subsequent formation of callus are of particular importance, which, in turn, creates conditions for the appearance and development of roots. Actually, the process itself begins with the formation of new tissues in the form protective film. After the cells grow, it ruptures and a whitish growth is formed, which is usually called callus - a good harbinger of roots. But it happens that literally on the very first day of cutting a cutting, cell sap, barely protruding from the wound, can become a favorable environment for the proliferation of microorganisms that destroy the plant that has not yet taken root - it simply rots from the lower tip. Therefore, cuts should only be made with a sharp and clean knife, holding the cutting suspended so as not to compress living cells and damage the bark. Putrefactive microflora easily reproduces both on torn sections and in the greenhouse substrate. Therefore, before laying it, it is advisable not only to rinse the sand, but also to bake it in the oven.
Cuttings, as already mentioned, should be cut from annual branches (4-6 millimeters thick), which can be easily bent. As for young intensively growing vegetative shoots, cut off after the end of the first wave of growth and matured, they often form a more powerful root system than one-year-old shoots, although rooting does not occur in all cases without exception. A simple trick can help here: you need to cut a green cutting from a tree with a piece of last year’s fabric - “with a heel”.
The formation of roots is facilitated by preliminary darkening of the branch on the mother plant, for which a case of two layers of fabric is put on it: the inner one is black and the upper one is white.
Keep in mind: branches cut from a tree dry out quickly, so they must be cut immediately or skillfully stored: for several hours in a jar of water, and for several days wrapped in a wet rag in a plastic bag on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. The main thing is to preserve the leaves on the cutting - a storehouse of nutrition with starch and fats, without which the cutting, if it does not dry out, will spend more time rooting.
Now about the greenhouse. There should be, if possible, constant high humidity and warmth. As a substrate, it is more effective to use a mixture of ordinary calcined sand with perlite, which is now often used in construction. Such a light substrate has good aeration, sterility, retains heat, constant humidity and at the same time does not retain excess water, thereby protecting the cuttings from rotting.
By the way, let me emphasize: rooting citrus cuttings are especially sensitive to temperature fluctuations. They are only positively influenced by a substrate temperature that is 4-5 degrees warmer than the foggy “greenhouse” air. If the soil is colder, then weak young shoots form before the roots, become depleted and dry out.
After the roots appear good development The seedling is helped by feeding it with a weak solution of ammonium nitrate (0.25 percent) and slurry (1:15).
Using the techniques described above, you can try to root not only lemons, but also other types of citrus fruits. By the way, according to their ability to take root, they form the following order (from maximum): citron, lemon, orange, grapefruit, tangerine...
In conclusion, we present the conclusions of the latest experiments of Georgian scientists who studied the peculiarities of propagation of Meyer lemon by cuttings at the All-Russian Research Institute of Tea and Subtropical Crops:
the younger the mother plant, the better the cuttings taken from it take root, and vice versa;
the more woody the cuttings are, the lower the rooting rate, and vice versa;
cuttings taken from different parts the crowns (lower, middle, upper) of the tree, as well as branches cut from different parts, are almost the same in terms of rooting; The degree of rooting of cuttings with different numbers of leaves has been established: maximum - with three leaves, average - with two, minimum - with one. Rooting was even worse for cuttings with one or two leaves cut in half;
When cutting cuttings from a branch, the place of the cut does not matter significantly, as was previously thought, that is, you can cut traditionally under the bud (near the node) or between the buds. In the first case, the roots develop as if from the bud and near it, and in the second - along the entire length of the internode.
The experiments were repeated (in April and August) in an artificial fog-forming chamber. The cuttings were placed in the substrate slightly inclined, their length was 7-8 centimeters, thickness - 5-6 millimeters, feeding area - 5X5 centimeters.

Mandarin comes from southern China and Cochin China (as South Vietnam was called during the period of French rule there). Currently, tangerine is not found growing wild. In India, the countries of Indochina, China, South Korea and Japan, these are now the most common citrus crops. Mandarin was brought to Europe only at the beginning of the 19th century, but is currently cultivated throughout the Mediterranean - in Spain, southern France, Morocco, Algeria, Egypt, and Turkey. It is also grown in Abkhazia, Azerbaijan and Georgia, as well as in the USA (Florida), Brazil and Argentina.

Mandarin is a generalized name for several species evergreens genus Citrus ( Citrus) family Rutaceae ( Rutaceae). The same word is used to call the fruits of these plants. You can read more about the types of tangerines in the “Types and Varieties of Tangerines” section of this article.

In many countries, mandarin is traditionally associated with New Year's holidays, since the harvest time falls in the month of December. In northern Vietnam and China, tangerines are placed on festive tables at the New Year's Eve lunar calendar, however, in the form of a tree with fruits, which can be considered some kind of analogue of our New Year tree.

The word "mandarin" was borrowed into Russian from Spanish, where the word mandarino is derived from se mondar (“easy to peel”) and refers to the property of the peel of the plant fruit being easily separated from the pulp.

Description of mandarin

Mandarin ( Citrus reticulata) - a tree not exceeding 4 meters in height, or shrub. Young shoots are dark green. Cases are described when, by the age of 30, a tangerine reached a height of five meters, and the harvest from such a tree amounted to 5-7 thousand fruits.

Mandarin leaves are relatively small, ovate or elliptical, with petioles almost without wings or slightly winged.

Mandarin flowers are single or two in the leaf axils, the petals are matte white, the stamens mostly have underdeveloped anthers and pollen.

Mandarin fruits are 4-6 cm in diameter and slightly flattened from the base to the top, so that their width is greater than their height. The peel is thin, does not grow tightly to the pulp (in some varieties the peel is separated from the pulp by an air layer), there are 10-12 lobes, well separated, the pulp is yellow-orange; The strong aroma of these fruits is different from other citrus fruits, and the pulp is usually sweeter than orange.

Features of caring for tangerine at home

Temperature: Tangerines are demanding of light and warmth. Budding, flowering and fruit set best occur at an average air and soil temperature of + 15..18 °C.

Lighting: Bright diffused light. It will be good near the east and west windows, as well as on the north window. Shading from direct sun is needed in spring and summer during the hottest hours.

Watering: In summer and spring, generously 1-2 times a day with warm water; in winter, watering is rare and moderate - 1-2 times a week, also with warm water. However, even in winter, the earthen clod should not be allowed to dry out, as this leads to curling of the leaves and falling of not only the leaves, but also the fruits. On the other hand, we must not forget that plants die from excess moisture. Starting in October, watering is reduced.

Humidity: Tangerines are regularly sprayed in the summer, but if they are kept indoors in winter central heating, then they spray it in winter. When kept in a room with dry air, oranges are susceptible to attack by pests (mites and scale insects).

Transfer: Young trees must be replanted annually. Transplantation should not be carried out if the roots of the plant have not yet entwined the earthen ball. In this case, it is enough to change the drainage and top layers of soil in the pot. Fruit-bearing trees are replanted no more than once every 2-3 years.

Replant before growth begins. It is not recommended to replant the plants after growth has finished. When transplanting, do not greatly destroy the earthen ball. Good drainage must be ensured. The root collar in the new container should be at the same level as it was in the old container.

Soil for young tangerines: 2 parts turf, 1 part leaf soil, 1 part humus from cow manure and 1 part sand.

Soil for adult tangerines: 3 parts turf, 1 part leaf, 1 part cow manure humus, 1 part sand and a small amount of fatty clay.

Fertilizing tangerines: In the first half of summer, fertilizing irrigation is used. It increases the sugar content of the fruit and reduces the bitter taste that is characteristic of citrus fruits when grown indoors. The plant needs more fertilizer the older it is and the longer it stays in one container. Fertilizers are applied after watering.

With additional artificial lighting of tangerines in winter, they also need to be fertilized. For tangerines, organic fertilizers (cow dung slurry) and combined mineral fertilizers are recommended, including flower shops You can also buy special fertilizers for citrus fruits.

Reproduction: Reproduction of tangerines, as well as lemons, is usually carried out by grafting, cuttings, layering and seeds. In indoor conditions, the most common method of propagating citrus fruits is cuttings.

If you love citrus fruits and decide to make a holiday for yourself at home, then you can think about how to grow tangerines at home. Tangerines are usually propagated by grafting or layering (the second method is more difficult). In the first case, you need to worry about the rootstock in advance, for which any citrus- orange, lemon or grapefruit grown at home from a seed.

Mandarin propagation by grafting

It is best to take 2-4 year old specimens with stems as thick as a pencil. The selected variety is grafted onto them with an eye or cutting. The operation is carried out during the period of sap flow, when the bark is easily separated from the wood of the seedling, exposing the cambium. Therefore, budding can be done 2 times a year during intensive growth - in spring and at the end of summer. To activate sap flow, the plant is watered abundantly a few days before grafting. Then they check how the bark is separated by slightly cutting it above the place intended for budding.

For beginners, it is better to first practice on the branches of other plants, for example, linden. To prevent water evaporation, all leaf blades are first cut off from the scion, leaving the petioles (they are held by shields with eyes during the operation).

On the stem of the seedling, 5-10 cm from the ground, select a place for grafting with smooth bark, without buds or thorns. Very carefully, with one movement of the knife, first make a transverse incision of the bark (no more than 1 cm), and from its middle, from top to bottom, make a shallow longitudinal one (2-3 cm). Using the bone of a budding knife, lightly pry up the corners of the cut bark and “plow open” it a little. Then immediately return it to its original position, only do not press it tightly at the top (the peephole will be inserted in this place).

After preparing the rootstock, without delay, they begin the most important procedure - cutting off a bud from a scion branch that was previously in a plastic bag. First, the scion is cut into pieces, each of which has a petiole and a bud. The top cut should be 0.5 cm above the bud, and the bottom cut should be 1 cm below. Such a “stump” is placed on the butt and the peephole is cut off with a blade. the thinnest layer wood

Using a knife bone to spread the corners of the bark on the rootstock, quickly insert the eye into the T-shaped cut, like into a pocket, pressing from top to bottom. Then the grafting site is tightly tied with polyethylene or polyvinyl chloride tape, starting from the bottom, to prevent further water from flowing in. You can apply garden varnish over the tape.

If after 2-3 weeks the scion petiole turns yellow and falls off, then everything is in order. And if it dries up and remains, you have to start over.

A month after successful budding, the upper part of the rootstock is cut off. This is done in two steps. At first, 10 cm above the grafting, so as not to cause the eye to dry out, and when it germinates, then directly above it - on a thorn. At the same time, remove the bandage. Old trees are often grafted in this way, but not on the trunk, but on the branches of the crown. The operating technique is the same.

The survival rate of cuttings increases significantly if the stem below the grafting is wrapped in wet cotton wool, and a plastic bag is placed on top of the tree, which creates its own microclimate inside with high humidity air.

In the future, it is necessary to remove shoots coming from the rootstock, otherwise they can drown out the scion. Grafted plants begin to bear fruit in the second or third year.

Further care for tangerines

In indoor conditions, tangerines, as a rule, are short-growing and gradually turn into original dwarf trees. When flowering, the fruits set without artificial pollination and ripen after a few months, usually by the end of the year.

Their taste depends on proper care for plants that need to be replanted annually in containers larger size with good fertile soil, being careful not to damage the roots. In addition, the trees are regularly fed with fertilizers - mineral and organic. It is best to use an infusion of manure, diluted 10 times before use. Sleeping tea, which is embedded in the top layer of soil, can also serve as a good fertilizer.

It is necessary to constantly monitor the air humidity in the “citrus garden”. You can place a wide bowl of water next to the plants. It is useful to spray the crown of tangerines daily with water at room temperature.

Lighting is of great importance. The trees should stand near the brightest window. In late autumn and winter, it is advisable to install conventional fluorescent lamps above them. They are turned on early in the morning and in the evening, extending daylight hours to 12 hours.

In summer, if possible, it is better to keep tangerines outdoors, but where there is no strong wind and direct sunlight. Plants are accustomed to new conditions gradually - in the first days they are taken out only for a few hours, and if it is cool outside, the earthen ball is moistened with warm (up to 40 ºC) water. When kept at home, water almost daily, making sure that the soil in the pot is always slightly damp. It is advisable to use rain or snow water rather than tap water.

Types and varieties of tangerine

Mandarin is characterized by strong polymorphism, as a result of which groups of its varieties (or even individual varieties) are described by different authors as independent species. The fruits of tropical varieties are particularly diverse.

Typically, tangerine varieties are divided into three groups:

• in the first group - very thermophilic noble tangerines (Citrus nobilis), having large leaves and relatively large yellowish-orange fruits with coarse lumpy skin;
• the second group consists of heat-loving and smaller-leaved tangerines, or Italian tangerines ( Citrus reticulata) with rather large orange-red fruits of a slightly elongated shape, covered with a plump peel (its smell in some varieties is sharp and not very pleasant);
• the third group includes satsumas(or unshiu) ( Citrus unshiu) originally from Japan, characterized by cold resistance, large leaves and small thin-skinned yellowish-orange fruits (often with green on the skin). It is satsumas that can withstand short-term light frosts (down to -7 degrees) that are successfully grown on the Black Sea coast.

Unlike noble mandarins and tangerines, satsuma fruits very rarely contain seeds - which is probably why this variety is also called seedless mandarin. Its varieties, when grown in containers, usually grow up to 1-1.5 m. Slender tangerine trees with a beautiful crown of slightly drooping branches, covered with numerous dark green leaves, especially decorate the house during abundant flowering and fruiting and fill it with wonderful smells.

As a result of crossing tangerines with other citrus fruits, various hybrids have been obtained:

• clementines (Clementina) - (mandarin x orange) - with small or medium-sized, flattened, very fragrant orange-red fruits, covered with a shiny thin peel (multi-seeded clementines are called Montreals);
• Ellendale (Ellendale) - (mandarin x tangerine x orange) - with orange-red seedless fruits ranging in size from medium to large, with a refined taste and aroma;
• tangors (Tangors) - (orange x tangerine) - have large (10-15 cm in diameter), flattened, red-orange fruits with a relatively thick, large-porous peel;
• Minneola (Minneola) - (tangerine x grapefruit) - are distinguished by a variety of sizes of red-orange fruits (from small to very large), elongated-round in shape, with a “tubercle” and a “neck” at the top;
• tangelo, or tangelo (Tangelo) - (tangerine x pomelo) - have large red-orange fruits the size of an average orange;
• santina (Suntina, or Sun Tina) - (clementine x orlando) - with fruits that look like noble tangerines and have an exquisite sweet taste and aroma;
• agli (Ugli, Ugly) - (tangerine x orange x grapefruit) - the largest among the hybrids (fruits with a diameter of 16 -18 cm), flattened, with a rough, large-pore yellow-green, orange or yellow-brown peel.

• "Unshiu"- frost-resistant, early-fruiting, very productive variety. The tree is low-growing, with a spreading crown of thin, very flexible branches covered with corrugated leaves. This tangerine branches beautifully, grows quickly, blooms profusely and readily. The fruits are pear-shaped, without seeds. Under artificial lighting it grows without ceasing.
• "Kowane-wasse"- a strong tree with thick branches; branches reluctantly. This tangerine variety can grow quite large for the size of an apartment. The leaves are fleshy and tough. Blooms profusely. The fruits are medium in size, orange-yellow.
• "Shiva-Mikan"- a compact, fast-growing tree with large, fleshy, dark green foliage. Early, blooms well. Productivity is average; fruit weighing up to 30 g.
• "Murcott"(Honey) is a very rare variety with a compact bush. The pulp of this tangerine, which ripens in summer, is as sweet as honey.

Mandarin orange