Bath floors have several significant functions that justify their differences from “residential” standards. In addition to guaranteeing safe movement in conditions of constant moisture, they play the role of a component of the sewer system. A properly constructed floor in a bathhouse will ensure proper drainage of water and will not rot or wear out ahead of time. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the specifics different technologies construction of bath floors and choose the most acceptable scheme. For the floor of a fundamental bath structure, we are developing separate project with mathematically accurate calculations. But for the majority of compatriots who have bought a ready-made log house for a bathhouse and are engaged in arranging the bathhouse personally, it is enough to receive general concepts about the difference in construction principles. Any of the proposed schemes can be independently modernized by a home craftsman to suit the needs and requirements of his own construction.
Guidelines for choosing a future design
The owner of a country bathhouse must initially decide on the type of drainage of water constantly pouring onto the floor and the material for constructing the floor. Basically, in buildings recognized as a mandatory component of suburban areas, the floor is poured with concrete or boards are laid on logs.
- A concrete foundation will require more labor effort, money and time, but it will serve without any complaints for more than half a century.
- The easiest and cheapest way to build a bathhouse floor with your own hands is from lumber, but after 7-8 years it wooden elements will need to be replaced.
Wood structures, based on the type of drainage and the associated complexity of the structure, are divided into leaking and “non-leaking” subcategories.
Pros and cons of leaking floors
A leaky floor is the simplest and extremely cheap. It is a boardwalk, between the elements of which gaps are left for direct discharge of wastewater into the ground. It does not have any additional sewer “delights” except for the drainage hole located in the underground, and there is no insulation either. Therefore, leaky floors are suitable for bathhouses in southern regions and for temporary dacha use.
Building such a floor for a bathhouse with your own hands is as easy as shelling pears. It will not be difficult to replace damaged elements and complete renovation. The boards are not nailed to the joists at all; they can and should be removed and taken outside for ventilation and drying. If desired, instead of a drainage pit, you can install a pan, the drainage from which will be discharged into a sewerage facility.
Specifics of non-leakage design
A non-leaking system is much more complex. It is constructed from two rows of boards. The top flooring, going on top of the logs, is made of tongue-and-groove pine or larch boards without the slightest gaps. A subfloor is installed below. A non-leaking floor is classified as “dry” and can be equipped with insulation.
The floorboards of the finishing flooring are placed with a slope towards the place where wastewater is collected and subsequently discharged into a sewer ditch or septic tank. A hole is made at the lowest point of the plank surface, to which a siphon is connected to drain the waste. The hole can be replaced with a full-length tray. The tray is installed with a slope towards the collection point of contaminated water.
What should the concrete floor pie be like?
Concrete floors in bathhouses are poured in three technological stages. The exaggerated “sandwich” of the design consists of six components, these are:
- compacted and strengthened soil base prepared for pouring;
- first layer of concrete 5 cm;
- insulation, most often expanded clay or felt;
- reinforcing concrete layer with chain-link mesh;
- leveling layer;
- coating.
Tamping the soil and the reinforcing gravel-crushed stone mixture of 15 cm laid on top of it, as well as pouring each of the “sandwich” layers, is carried out with a slope towards the drainage pit. As a result, the design should turn out normal . The slope is standard, like wooden structures, 10º.
We decided on a scheme according to which the installation of floors in the bathhouse would be carried out. Don't forget that if the floor has to support the weight of the capital and not the portable sauna stove, you need to take care of creating a foundation for it in advance.
Features of the construction of wood floors
The main structural element of wooden floors for a bathhouse are logs resting on the embedded beam of a column-type foundation or on the edge of a strip foundation.
All points of contact between the logs and the foundation elements must be insulated with two or three layers of roofing material coated with heated bitumen or dissolved in the solarium. Instead of this budget option You can use eurobitumen or other effective waterproofing material.
Boards are laid on the joists. In the case of leaking floors, the boards are laid with equal empty spaces between them of 3-4 mm; a technological two-centimeter gap should remain along the perimeter between the flooring and the walls of the bathhouse. Owners of small buildings who want to know “how to make a floor in a bathhouse” can lay logs on the frame beam without erecting additional devices, if the log between the support points is less than 3 meters.
The direction of the joists during the construction of a leaking floor determines the shortest distance between the walls. When constructing a non-leakage structure, the direction of installation of the joists should be perpendicular to the direction of drainage.
Construction of support chair-pillars
Construction of floors in large bath buildings will require the preliminary installation of support posts-chairs with a cross-section of 25 cm. Craftsmen planning to lay boards with a thickness of 19 mm will need to build support posts every 70 cm. For a board marked 22 - after 80 cm, for a board with a size 29 - after 90 cm .
Under the pillars, small foundations of 20 cm in thickness are made or sandy soil is compacted. A foundation poured into formwork made from low-grade boards is more reliable. Craftsmen studying the construction of a floor in a bathhouse should know that the edge of the base for the supports should “protrude” at least 5 cm on each side of the column.
The supports above the foundation can be made of brick, made of logs, or cast monolithic from cement. You can cheaply and quickly make a support column from an asbestos pipe with a suitable diameter. A section of pipe is buried in the ground, the soil around it is compacted, then cement mortar is poured into the finished formwork.
Before laying the logs, the support pillars must be leveled. The level of their upper plane should coincide with the level of the upper plane of the elements on which the edges of the logs will rest.
Arrangement of the underground bathhouse
The owner constructing a leaking wooden floor needs to find out what filtration properties characterize the soil on his site. If there is an excellent natural filter under the bathhouse - sand, to arrange the underground you will only need to fill in a 25-centimeter layer of gravel. It will serve as a purifier for wastewater passing through it before transiting into the ground. There should be a distance of min 10 cm between the logs and the upper plane of the backfill.
If there is soil under the bathhouse with low filtration properties (loam, clay, sandy loam), you will have to work hard. It will be necessary to make a tray to transport wastewater into a pit, from which dirty water will be discharged outside the building. For this purpose, a clay castle is installed in the underground of the leaking structure with a slope towards the drainage pit. Clay can be replaced with concrete, but it is too expensive.
An underground floor that does not leak can be filled with expanded clay insulation. There should be a 15-centimeter ventilation gap between the expanded clay and the logs. In the washing compartment, a pit is made near the wall. The walls and bottom of this water intake are compacted and coated with clay. From the pit, the waste collected in it must be discharged outside, for which a pipe with a cross-section of at least 15 cm in size is laid.
Installation of the log system
Constructing leaky floors in wooden bath, the logs are laid horizontally on prepared places protected by waterproofing. For floors that do not leak, it is necessary to form a slope, for the purpose of which the cutting in the joist on the side directed to the place of waste collection is increased by 2-3mm. The result is the required slope of 10º.
The level of the foundation under the sauna stove is brought to the level of the future floor after installing the logs before laying the flooring.
The boards of the leaking floor are laid on the installed joists without nailing them. Floorboards of a non-leaking design are nailed with two nails at an angle of 45º, but first a subfloor is laid from low-grade boards and equipped with insulation. The groove of the tongue-and-groove flooring board is directed inside the bathhouse.
Initially, it is better not to nail the floorboards of a non-leaking floor to the joists, but only to “bait” them. After finishing all the work on finishing the bathhouse, you need to dry it, and then adjust and finally nail the boards.
Along the perimeter, the bath floor is finished with a plinth. It must be installed so that moisture flowing from the walls does not get under the slats. That is, the wall cladding should “lie” on the baseboard and rest tightly against it without gaps.
The nuances of installing concrete floors
According to tradition, before pouring, you need to make a pit and equip it with a pipe communicating with the drain. Then the concrete floor in the bathhouse is arranged according to the above scheme, in the description of which some were not mentioned specific features construction of floors in a concrete bath:
- If the sewer system of a monolithic floor discharges waste into the ground under the bathhouse, it is necessary to make vents from asbestos pipes in the base of the bathhouse. These holes are necessary to remove the negative odor that will inevitably appear over time.
- If wastewater will be discharged through a pipe to a sewerage facility, the receiving edge of the pipe must be equipped with a shutter. An ingenious folk shutter is a rubber ball that floats up and falls onto a pipe; factory-made devices are also suitable.
IN brief description waterproofing was not mentioned in the construction of a monolithic floor. You need to protect it from moisture with an insulating layer on all sides. Bitumen can be used as an insulator, polyethylene film, roofing felt, etc.
Concrete floors belong to the category of “cold” structures. To prevent the feet of bathing lovers from freezing, portable wooden gratings are knocked together. They are taken outside to dry and brought in before the next visit.
Common schemes described in general outline introduce you to how to make floors in a bathhouse. This is not a strict guide, but just a principle of arrangement - general recommendations, which the owner of the building must modify and improve in relation to his property. Even if there is no desire to build a floor yourself, each owner needs to know the design differences and specifics so that the bathhouse brings only spiritual pleasure and does not “strain” with endless problems.
The floor in a bathhouse differs from residential premises in that, in addition to its strength, it requires the construction of a sewer drain. If you build it correctly, it will not rot, will not absorb moisture, but will ensure its constant removal and dryness in the room at a time when steaming is not carried out.
Before constructing a floor in a bathhouse, the owner must decide on the requirements that he places on it. Usually the choice has to be made between a concrete structure and wooden boards:
- A concrete foundation takes a long time and is expensive to lay. It is guaranteed to last more than 50 years, and with proper updating and correct operation there is no need to replace it;
- A wooden floor is easy and cheap to construct. It looks great, but needs to be replaced regularly, about every 5-10 years.
If wood is chosen as the flooring material, you should decide on the type of construction. There is leaking and non-leaking. The first one is easier to arrange and looks more interesting. The boards laid in the bathhouse do not need to be nailed to the joists. They are installed at a distance of at least 3 mm from each other. When you need them to dry quickly, you can simply collect them and take them outside to dry. It is not necessary to construct boards with a gap in the dressing room. In other rooms, a gap of about 2 mm is left from the perimeter walls, creating a conventional frame around the floor, indicated by a small indentation.
Advantages and disadvantages of leaking floors
Pros.
- The structure is built very quickly.
- Non-leakage flooring is the leader among other types in terms of cheapness.
- A drainage hole is made in the underground for sewerage. There is no need to install any other systems.
- Waterproofing and thermal insulation are not laid.
Cons.
- Intended for temporary use; you cannot take a steam bath in winter (in cold climates).
- To be able to use a bathhouse with a leaking floor constantly, it is necessary to build it in a warm climate.
- If you choose poorly hewn boards or place them unevenly, the floor will not be reliable.
- Fragility.
Construction of a standard bath floor
In the steam room, the floor should rise slightly compared to the zero level. You can make it higher by only 8-10 cm, and the desired effect will already be achieved - maintaining a high temperature in the room is ensured. In the washing department the floor is made below the finishing level. This improvement will help prevent excess water from entering the remaining compartments of the bathhouse.
The most common floor design in a bathhouse (layers from top to bottom).
- Finish coating.
- Wood or concrete (final row).
- Small air space.
- Lining (small layer).
- Insulating layers (hydro- and thermal insulation is required, sometimes noise insulation is added separately if there are industries, clubs, or other establishments that are a source of noise near the bathhouse).
- Lathing.
- Insulating layers (in cold winters to protect the floor structure from cold or moisture).
- Rough floor.
- Wooden beams for sheathing.
- Waterproofing (laid on the ground).
Larch is considered the best material for constructing an aesthetic and durable floor. If it is impossible to purchase it, it is allowed to use other common wood species: pine (one of the cheapest), birch (unusual color), fir or alder. Sometimes wood species are combined. The finishing coating is made from more expensive boards, and the cheapest species, for example, pine, are installed below.
Preparation of the finishing coating (carried out in advance)
The boards must be dried before laying. If this stage is canceled, there is a high probability of deformation of the floor if natural moisture leaves the trees quickly. They can decrease in volume and bend.
More susceptible to deformation solid boards. They take longer to dry, and the risk of deformation is greater. The situation is saved by the possibility of laying thin beams. They can withstand less load, but this disadvantage is compensated by installation cross beams(additional layer). The tendency for a 2.5 cm thick board to deform is practically negligible, so it is advisable to choose approximately the same (or slightly larger) boards for joists. The optimal thickness is up to 4 cm.
Composition and design features of a wooden floor
To correctly and quickly create the elevation required in the steam room, use additional bars for lining. The optimal cross-section is approximately 7×10 cm. With their help, the composition of the base is strengthened, because the beams carry a significant part of the load.
How to lay a classic wood floor.
- The base is pre-coated with several layers of roofing felt.
Massive bars are laid along the perimeter of the foundation. They pass through a certain distance, occupying the entire future floor. Each beam located in the center is supported by support from two opposite walls. It is additionally supported by specially installed two massive pillars.
- The logs are installed on the beams. They are systematically trimmed, creating an artificial slope towards the sewer outlet. It is desirable that the total difference in slope be at least 2 cm. Before installing the logs, cranial bars are nailed down, together they form the subfloor.
- The moisture-proof membrane is attached to the logs, while the free ends remain 20-30 cm in order to later attach them to the waterproofing layer of the walls.
- A layer of insulation pre-cut to size is laid in the gap of the subfloor boards. It is advisable to combine protection from cold and moisture in one covering. Now there is large selection such materials. It is preferable to use mineral wool.
- The finished floor is laid from tongue-and-groove boards and must be done as carefully as possible.
Video - Construction of a bathhouse. Arranging a wooden floor
Video - Do-it-yourself wooden floor in a bathhouse
Required clearances
The ventilation gap between the vapor barrier membrane and the floor is at least 2-3 cm. This layer has additional outlets that need to be connected to the wall vapor barrier. This is necessary to connect free air under and above the membrane, ensuring free air circulation. Warm air flow when circulating under the floor, it will displace cooled and wet water, which will ensure dry floors for the entire period of operation of the bath.
The backing beams are made of such a size that the gap from them to the logs is more than 1 cm. If the log house shrinks slightly, then this distance will compensate for the pressure on the floor and protect the structure from deformation.
Video - Floor in the bathhouse. Arrangement
Fastening elements
The quality and reliability of the floor depend not only on the selected materials, but primarily on compliance with the standards for their fastening. Possible methods connection of parts.
Concrete floor
To fill a floor with concrete, you need to carry out a number of sequential measures.
- Formwork is installed on the prepared base (filled with primary waterproofing, for example, sand). Wooden boards fasten together anchor bolts, if necessary, they are insured with reinforcement posts with a cross-section of 2-4 cm.
- Concrete mortar is prepared in a ratio of cement, sand and gravel. The components are combined in a ratio of 1:3:5. Sometimes a solution is prepared without gravel, but the classic recipe is considered more durable. You need to add as much water as required for the correct consistency of a homogeneous but liquid mixture. Concrete is poured in an even layer, the optimal thickness is 5 cm and above. This is the primary covering on which a rigid frame is installed.
- The reinforcement is evenly distributed inside the formwork. The rods are connected to each other with wire 2-5 mm thick or welded at the joining points. First, vertical pegs with the greatest thickness are driven into the ground, and then they are connected by one or two rows of vertical long reinforcing rods. The frame can be located at a distance from the formwork along the perimeter, but it should not exceed 5 cm.
- The rest of the concrete solution is poured onto the reinforcement to the top. To make it more uniform, it is necessary to compact it. You can purchase a vibrator separately and use it to work all areas of the floor. If this is not possible, holes are made in the wet layer of concrete with an iron or wooden rod, through which the air formed when pouring the mixture escapes.
- To prevent the space under the floor from filling with moisture, from the internal backfill to the wooden base, thanks to big bars a gap of about 15 cm is created.
- To make movement on the floor inaudible, you need to put fiberglass pads under it. They are located on the waterproofing layer. Sold in rolls, produced in the form of a thick tape.
- Wooden materials are treated with an antiseptic. It is advisable to use this chemical composition, with which you can get rid of all microorganisms and prevent damage to the wood.
- All boards are pre-dried or purchased already dried from a trusted company.
- When installing ventilation, it is necessary to organize its proper drainage. From the underground it is led out along the wall into the attic; a separate pipe is constructed for this purpose. If the foundation is monolithic, then you can make holes connecting ventilation gaps with air outside.
Recommendations for constructing a floor in a bathhouse should be applied to your own structure, sometimes adjusting the instructions. It is advisable to leave the basic standards according to which the floor should be constructed unchanged, since they are determined by the natural properties of the materials and the specific state of the air in the bathhouse.
Video - Errors in building floors in a bathhouse
Preface
Construction of the floor in the steam room is a very important stage in the construction of a sauna. The floor must be adapted to high temperatures and humidity. Anyone can make a bathhouse floor with their own hands – we’ll tell you how.
Choosing a bath floor design
Compared to living spaces, bath floors require a special approach. Exposure to extreme heat and constant humidity structural elements wooden floors are susceptible to rotting. Therefore, it is very important to competently approach the choice of the type of underground structure. It is much better to think about how to make a floor in a bathhouse at the design stage of the structure itself.
In bathhouse construction, the most common are floor concrete or. The main task when arranging the floor, it is necessary to drain the water that constantly flows during bathing procedures. Depending on the method of drainage, the wooden floor in the bathhouse can be made leaky or non-leaky.
As for the type of floor that leaks, such a structure is an inexpensive option. Such a design is quite easy to make. In order to arrange good drainage, you need to lay boards on the joists. Such flooring must have slots to ensure drainage directly to the ground.
To collect water in the underground bathhouse, a drainage pit is built. Therefore, sewerage is not required in this case. Due to the fact that the floor covering is slotted, the floor is not insulated. Therefore, a self-made bathhouse with this type of floor is only suitable for use during the warm season.
As for the non-leakage floor, this type is much more complicated to construct than the first option. This design is made from several rows of boards. A subfloor is made from the first row, which involves attaching boards to the bottom of the joists. Uneven second-grade boards may be suitable for this purpose.
The second row is laid directly on the logs. This must be done without gaps, so for convenience you can use boards with tongue and groove. Experts recommend using larch boards at this stage. It is also possible to pay attention to pine wood. Among coniferous trees, fir is well suited for baths. Heat is usually placed in the inter-row space insulating materials.
The finishing floor must be laid at a slight inclination in the direction of water collection. This will help drain the wastewater into the sewer or septic tank. It is also necessary to connect the siphon to the pre-made hole in the lower part of the wooden base. Using a tray that runs the entire length of the floor, you can get rid of additional holes. The tray must be positioned at an angle towards the collection point for contaminated wastewater.
Secrets of arranging a wooden floor in a bathhouse
Among the main advantages of wooden flooring is the environmental friendliness of the material. With such a floor, the bathhouse will look very solid. Compared with other types of flooring, using wood will be significantly cheaper. The main advantages of a wooden bath floor include high installation speed.
Before installing the logs, it is necessary to build support chairs. They can be made from either brick or monolithic reinforced concrete. When using the first option, you will need to build a concrete platform under each support.
For support chairs, a hole is usually made 40–50 cm deep. After this, you need to make a cushion, which will require a layer of sand of about 10 cm. Then 15 cm of crushed stone is poured in. All this must be thoroughly compacted. Upon completion, a frame is created from reinforcement, after which concrete is poured. It is imperative to take into account that the supports are at the same level and rise 10–20 cm above the ground surface. The poured concrete must be allowed to cure to gain strength. Therefore, the following actions must be performed a week after pouring the concrete mixture.
When the strength of the support chairs has been gained, you can begin to waterproof them. The first step is to apply liquid bitumen. After this, it is advisable to lay the roofing material.
The next stage of creating a wooden floor covering in a bathhouse with your own hands is laying the logs. This process depends on the type of floor structure. For example, for a non-leakage floor, it is necessary to arrange a slope of the flooring of 10 degrees. For this purpose, notches are created in the bars. They need to be made more when approaching the waste pit. If a leaking floor is used, the joists must be laid at the same level.
Once this process is complete, the floor boards are laid. This stage also differs depending on the floor construction. In the case of a non-leaking floor, tongue and groove beams are used. The work itself is carried out in three stages - creating a subfloor, thermal and waterproofing, laying the finished floor.
For leaking floors, cut boards are used. They must be laid at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Such gaps will make it possible to drain water from the floor surface. Be sure to make a technological gap of 2 cm near the walls.
Construction of a leak-proof floor - little things you need to know
The floor design resembles a multi-layer cake. As mentioned above, a subfloor is required to apply the thermal insulation layer. Any boards, including waste, are used for it. It is important to treat the wood with antiseptic materials and clean it of bark. You also need to pay attention to the thickness of the boards; they should not be thinner than 20–25 mm.
To carry out thermal insulation works needs to be laid on a subfloor waterproofing membrane. This material should extend 20–30 cm onto the wall. All joists must be covered with a continuous layer of such a membrane. You can attach it using a stapler. Fastening should be done to the side of the joist in 10–15 cm increments. If the film size is not enough, then the new layer will need to be overlapped with the previous one by 20–30 cm. Two layers of the membrane can be connected to each other using self-adhesive tape.
You can then begin installation. thermal insulation material. It is recommended to leave a small gap (no more than 1–2 cm) between top layer floor and insulation. Some experts advise when using basalt wool to lay another layer of waterproofing on top of it.
Now you can start creating the finished floor. To do this, first of all, a 2 cm thick strip is attached along the wall. In this case, it is advisable to use wood screws. Such slats are necessary to create support for the floor boards.
The beams begin to be laid from the wall. They are attached to the joists using self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be recessed. Thanks to the tenons in the boards, they are attached quite easily. To do this, you need to insert each one into the groove of the previous board. Therefore, the tenon of the first plank should be directed towards the wall. Floor boards must be laid in such a way that water flows across the beams.
Concrete floor in a bathhouse - what you need to know
Creating such a floor covering with your own hands is carried out in several stages. The first step is to compact the soil base. It is required to make a sand and crushed stone cushion. Most often, a layer of 15–20 cm is made. They begin to tilt towards the pit even at the stage of soil compaction.
Before pouring the first layer of concrete, it is necessary to build a pit from which a waste pipe should exit into the drain. In the case of drainage into the ground, it is necessary to make vents in the bathhouse. For this you can use asbestos pipes. Such holes are made to remove the bathhouse from the room unpleasant odors. When draining wastewater into a sewer through a pipe, its receiving edge must be provided with a shutter.
Next, concrete is poured at 5 cm. After the mixture has hardened, expanded clay is poured or felt is laid. Waterproofing is a must. Another reinforced layer of concrete is poured on top of the insulation. After this stage, it is recommended to use leveling mixtures. Now you can begin laying the flooring.
The concrete floor in the bathhouse is very cold. Therefore, you will need to make it warm. To do this, you can implement electric or water heated floors. It is better to lay a moisture-resistant wooden covering on top of the concrete. Due to this, the floor surface will always be warm and comfortable for your feet.
The floor in a bathhouse made of boards is considered classic version arrangement of a Russian bath. Despite the tendency of wood to rot when high humidity, the other benefits of the material outweigh the negatives, and wood flooring remains the most common construction technology. All wood defects can be eliminated if you provide the right approach to the choice of wood species and observe the basic principles of protecting it from aggressive influences.
Features of the problem
As you know, a Russian bathhouse consists of several typical premises: steam room, washing room, dressing room, relaxation room, which have their own specific conditions. The most aggressive environment is present in the steam room. Here, high humidity is ensured (up to 60-65%) using water vapor heated to a temperature of 55-70 degrees. Below at floor level the temperature drops slightly (to 45-50 degrees), but heated water and steam condensate appear. To this should be added mechanical loads when moving participants in the bath procedure.
In a washing room, the main impact on a wooden floor is associated with flowing water (shower or dousing from containers), often mixed with detergents(soap, shampoo, etc.). In addition, clouds of steam may escape from the steam room. In the dressing room, problems are usually associated with the firebox of the sauna stove located here, in the area of which the material is heated. In addition, it is necessary to take into account temperature differences and dirt brought in with shoes. Most favorable conditions are provided in the relaxation room, where comfort and aesthetics come first.
The above analysis of bath conditions is important for developing an approach to choosing a flooring material. The point is that different breeds Wood also has different properties, and therefore the question of which board to make a floor in a bathhouse from has its own characteristics. When choosing a material, not only the dimensions that provide mechanical strength are important, but also the characteristics of the wood itself.
Choosing a wood species
Which board is best for a bathhouse floor?
Note! When choosing a wood type, the following basic properties are taken into account: moisture resistance or degree of hygroscopicity, which is largely determined by the density of the structure; mechanical strength; tendency to deform when drying; presence of harmful resins.
The latter characteristic is especially important in a steam room, where under the influence of superheated steam at sufficiently high temperature resinous substances are released from wood and are inhaled by humans. In this regard, some coniferous trees containing large amounts of resins pose a danger to the body.
What board should I use for the floor in the bathhouse? The most commonly used tree species are:
1. Larch. It belongs to the coniferous species and has high strength and density. Essential oils contained in wood can have a healing effect, especially for disorders of the cardiovascular or immune system. The structure contains a natural antiseptic that combats microorganisms that cause rotting. Resinous substances are actively released at first, but later they stop evaporating. One of the main disadvantages is the high cost of the material.
2. Oak. This rock has unique strength, resistance to high temperatures and moisture, but it is usually used in the form finishing material. Oak floor boards are not widely used due to increased specific gravity, difficulties in processing, tendency to crack due to temperature changes.
3. Cedar. It has a peculiar fibrous structure, which provides an important property: very low deformation and no cracking. There is practically no rotting of such wood, and the appearance is admirable. The advantages include increased heat capacity, which ensures long-term heat retention. The use of cedar boards is limited only by the high cost.
4. Pine. Main positive properties: low cost, ease of processing. Proper drying of wood eliminates the risk of cracking and deformation. Main disadvantage: low resistance to decay. Fungi and various microorganisms actively develop in pine products. When deciding which board to lay the floor in a bathhouse, pine floorboards are most often rejected. At the same time, pine is widely used as joists, intermediate and supporting elements of wooden floors.
5. Linden. The classic Russian bathhouse was always based on this type of wood. She has medicinal properties, and the texture creates a unique decor. As floor board its use is limited by such negative aspects, such as low heat capacity (a fairly cold surface) and a high tendency to rot, which requires careful processing.
6. Aspen. It is in many ways similar to linden. It has a relatively low cost and is easy to process. The main disadvantage: it begins to darken when exposed to high temperatures.
Summarizing the arguments presented in favor of a particular type of wood, it should be noted that the question of what boards are needed for the floor in a bathhouse is decided by financial capabilities and the type of bathhouse flooring in which the flooring is being built.
Note! Larch looks the most attractive, but when saving money, pine boards are still more often used.
What is taken into account when preparing material
In addition to the choice of wood species, other characteristics also play an important role. First of all, it is necessary to take into account quality indicators:
- Grooved board. For the floor in the bathhouse, a regular or tongue-and-groove board can be used. The difference lies in the formation of the end. In the tongue-and-groove version, a longitudinal tenon is formed on one side, and a corresponding groove is formed on the other. As a result of the use of such products, a locking connection is provided, which makes it possible to tightly fit and create a leak-proof floor covering. Naturally, profiled boards have a higher cost, but the quality of the floor also increases significantly.
- Humidity. A very important parameter for any wood is the presence of residual moisture in the structure of the material. For the floor it is necessary to use only well-dried products, i.e. with minimal humidity. Wet wood will warp as it dries, causing an uneven surface. The optimal humidity value is considered to be within 7-9%, at least not more than 12-13%.
- Dimensions. The thickness of the board for the bath floor ensures its mechanical strength. In principle, it significantly depends on the properties of the wood, i.e. depending on the type of tree. So, when using an oak board, a thickness of 20-25 mm is sufficient; to ensure the same strength, a pine board with a thickness of 40-45 mm is required. Typical tongue and groove boards are offered in thicknesses ranging from 27-37 mm. The choice of this parameter is determined by real loads taking into account the area of the room.
Note! The width of the board also affects the reliability of the flooring and the likelihood of deformation. The narrower it is, the lower the risk of its curvature in cross section.
The most commonly used board is 10 cm wide. If you use well-dried material, you can safely choose a width of about 17-20 cm. 
Specific Features
The quality of plank flooring in a bathhouse and its reliability depend on the following nuances:
- Carrying out acclimatization. If we are making a floor in a bathhouse from boards, regardless of the type of wood, it is recommended that the material be given the opportunity to acclimatize to the conditions where it will be located. To do this, the boards should be brought into the bathhouse at normal humidity and temperature and left for 3-5 days.
- Method of fastening the plank covering. It is customary to attach ordinary boards to the joists with nails or self-tapping screws at right angles. The caps of fasteners must be recessed into the wood. A tongue and groove board can be fastened along a tenon, which makes it possible to remove the head from the surface. Wide boards (more than 14-15 cm) will additionally have to be secured in the middle.
- Processing. Any wood, even larch or oak, requires impregnation with a special antiseptic to prevent the activity of fungi and other microorganisms that cause rotting. All wooden parts are subjected to impregnation - both internal (joists, supports, sheathing) and finished floor boards. At the same time modern compositions may include additives that change the tint of wood for decorative purposes.
Technological features
Bath floor: which boards to use is only the first question. The next task is to choose its design. In practice, 2 options are used:
- Leaking variety. In it, the boards are laid with a gap through which free flow of water from the floor surface is ensured. This lattice system is considered traditional for a Russian bath. The drainage in this design is produced directly into the ground under the bathhouse or collected underground drainage system with subsequent removal to special collections outside the building.
- Leak-proof design. In this case, the boards fit tightly to each other, and additional waterproofing is provided to prevent water from seeping through the flooring. For such a system, tongue and groove boards are most suitable. The water drains through special drain holes, and the floor itself is made with a slope in the direction of these holes.
Thus, the question of how to lay the floor in a bathhouse from boards is decided taking into account the choice of design. In other words, the boards can be installed with a gap of 2-5 mm or fitted closely, sealing the joints.
Structurally, both options differ precisely in the way the boards are placed. The structure of the wooden floor itself is similar. Its installation is carried out in the following order:
- Leveling and compacting the soil. Backfill the cushion with sand and crushed stone with a compaction 10-12 cm thick.
- Laying roofing felt waterproofing.
- Installation of logs from wooden beam size of at least 40x40 cm. The installation step is 40-65 cm depending on the size of the room. Installation is carried out with the formation of a slope towards the drain holes.
- Laying or backfilling thermal insulation between joists. Expanded clay is usually used for this purpose, but it also performs well mineral wool. Do not use foam that can release harmful substances when heated. Then another layer of waterproofing and a vapor barrier with a foil layer are laid (for the steam room).
- After completing the formation of the base of the floor, rough flooring from boards can be applied, which increases the strength of the structure. However, this element is not required. In principle, the finishing board covering can also be attached directly to the joists.
The floor in a bathhouse made of boards has long been considered a traditional design. At correct implementation he is capable of performing all work and taking protective measures long term serve even in extreme conditions steam rooms It is important to choose the right type of wood and carry out the necessary preparatory work.
You can make the floor in the bathhouse with your own hands if you do everything carefully and correctly.
The quality of preparation of the base of your bathhouse, the choice of insulating components and the final coating fundamentally determine the long service life of your floor.
We will provide you with and together consider the installation of bath floors, as well as distinctive features installation and various kinds technical mistakes that should be taken into account and avoided.
Features of the structure of floors in the bathhouse
If you are building a bathhouse and plan to use it for all twelve months or more, then in this case We advise you to make a permanent foundation by pouring a concrete screed.
There is an answer to the question of how to create a wear-resistant and strong floor in a bathhouse - the construction of the bathhouse itself as a whole is carried out taking into account a large number of different nuances. Premises with a rather specific microclimate can provide truly extraordinary operating conditions for the floor covering.
High humidity, as well as changes in temperature threshold and contact of the subfloor with water can significantly reduce the lifespan of your floor.
The choice of a particular method for arranging the foundation in a very humid room mainly depends on the following factors:
Type of wooden floors
The construction of the base using wooden flooring will be optimal for seasonal buildings. Wood itself has little thermal conductivity, which is why it helps retain heat in very humid rooms.
But a very high humidity threshold can provoke the process of rotting of wooden components. In order to avoid this, experts advise using floor joists, and accordingly, flooring, which is made of coniferous wood. They are less hygroscopic because they have natural resins in the wood structure.
In general, absolutely all types of wooden coatings can be divided into 2 main categories: leaking and non-leaking.
Leaking
The first category is leaky. The boards are placed at a certain interval, which is why water is removed from the entire room as quickly as possible due to various kinds of cracks formed in the coating, the dimensions of which range from three to seven millimeters.
The design of this base is very beneficial for the following reasons:
- Low price of flooring;
- There is no need to install a drainage system;
- Easy installation.
Leak-proof
The second category is non-leakage. So let's say monolithic coating, which is assembled from boards. You can use this category in buildings that are used year-round.
But in this option, a water collector should be installed in the base, with the help of which waste water would disappear into the sewer pipes.
The non-leaking coating device itself has the following advantages:
- Excellent thermal conductivity of the room;
- Possibility of collecting heated floors;
- Very long period of use.
Preparation of equipment and tools
The construction of a bathhouse is considered a very responsible, careful, labor-intensive process, but one of the most important points The improvement of the floors is considered. From quality indicators installation work, which are associated with sewer system, as well as the installation of floor components, generally affects the microclimate of the entire room.
In order to implement all stages of floor construction carefully and correctly, you first need to have the necessary tools for the job on hand.
Construction of a concrete base is only possible if you have the following tools:
To install wood flooring you will need the following tools:
- Jigsaw – angle grinder;
- Roulette;
- Nails;
- Plane;
- Hammer.
In order to understand how to properly install floors in a bathhouse, we will provide you with step by step instructions laying concrete and wooden floors.
Floor installation
Conventional floor design
The base must be higher zero level by eight to nine centimeters, in particular regarding the base, which is installed in the steam room. In this case, the temperature threshold in the room is very long time will stay at the same level. At the same time, the base in the wash room should be made a little lower than in the other parts of the bathhouse, which will make it possible to avoid water leakage from the floor into the shower room and dressing room, and so on.
Layers
The usual installation of a floor in a bathhouse is considered a very labor-intensive process:
Features of base preparation
The usual construction of a heated floor in a bathhouse begins with simple preparatory work. To do this, the following is necessary: to ensure a long service life of the final coating; To do this, in the process of preparing the foundation, the following work should be done:
- First of all, in place of the floors, you should lay a mineral cushion in the form of expanded clay granules or broken bricks. The usual thickness of such a drainage layer must be no less than fifteen centimeters;
- After this, you need to pour crushed stone or gravel on top, a layer of ten to fifteen centimeters;
- Then the laid materials should be compacted.
- The application of a so-called mineral cushion makes it possible to disrupt capillarity, due to which ground moisture increases and reaches the base, as a result of which it destroys and destroys it.
Preparation of the working mixture
In order to create a high-quality solution for pouring screed, it is necessary to strictly observe the ratios, as well as the order of attaching the necessary elements.
In order to improve the thermal insulation qualities of this mixture, you can add to its composition sorbitol. The manufacturing process itself takes place in two stages.
The first step will be to fill ten liters clean water into a concrete mixer, then pour about two buckets of expanded sand and mix everything. Then you need to add cement (about five liters), the main point is that the cement must be grade M-300 and no lower.
After adding the cement, mix again, then add about five liters of the same clean water, and all that remains is to mix all the components until the mixture is homogeneous.
If necessary, you can improve the mixture, namely increase it technical parameters by adding perlite. In order to do this, you need to go through the following: add ten kilograms of perlite and two to two and a half liters of water to the already prepared solution. Mix all this very thoroughly until the entire solution becomes free-flowing. After ten minutes, mix everything very well again.
At the very end, you will see a loose composition; its consistency is a little like simple plasticine. After this stage, a screed is made.
Filling the first layer
If the area of the rough covering is very small, the screed should be carried out over the entire area. To pour screed over a huge area, the room is divided into strips (conditionally), and everything needs to be processed in turn.
So, in order to lay your first layer of mixture as carefully and correctly as possible, you need the following:
Hydro- and thermal insulation of concrete floors
At the moment the screed hardens, it is necessary to proceed to the stage of hydro- and thermal insulation of the coating.
Before laying all the insulating materials, the concrete itself (surface) is checked for dents, bulges, and cracks. If necessary, defects should be repaired.
As a rule, you can choose for simple waterproofing materials:
- Polyethylene film;
- Rolled roofing felt;
- Bitumen mastic.
After you have already installed waterproofing, you need to insulate the floor.
For these purposes you can use:
- Polystyrene;
- Granulated expanded clay;
- Foam concrete;
- Penoplex;
- Mineral wool.
The thickness of the heat-insulating layer must be from ten to fifteen centimeters. As practice shows, the most the best insulation For concrete surfaces, expanded clay is considered. It does not absorb moisture, weighs very little and is soundproof.
Pouring the final screed
Laying the final layer of screed technologically differs very little from the previous option, however, in this case, the thickness of the screed can vary from eight to ten centimeters. With all this, it is necessary to take into account that during the process of pouring the mixture, it is necessary to ensure that the slope towards the drainage basin is maintained.
However, the arrangement of floors in small and large rooms is quite different. For example, if the base area is very large, to give the structure high strength, it is worth laying a simple reinforcing mesh before pouring the screed. In this case, even with frequent use of the bath, the rough coating will not crack.
Feature of wooden floor
Wooden flooring is considered a standard type of covering, which was used for arranging floors in bathhouses.
Despite its hygroscopicity, this type The material is still in great demand among consumers, thanks to the following features:
Making a wooden floor in a bathhouse
How to carefully and most importantly, correctly lay a wooden floor? To do this you need to install wooden base, which is actually very easy, but it is necessary to take into account a certain number of technical nuances.
The entire process of arranging floors is divided into the following stages:
Building a bathhouse, and even with a wear-resistant floor, is a very difficult task, unless, of course, you take into account the specific microclimate in the room.
To increase the period of use of the floor covering, the following points must be taken into account during the installation process:
You can improve the water-repellent properties of the screed using dust removal products with the same features.
Conclusion
Installing a floor in a bathhouse is a very long and labor-intensive process; it will require a careful approach from you.
During the installation process, it is necessary to take into account a large number of factors:
- foundation type;
- base area;
- type of flooring materials;
- microclimate;
- and so on.
Only in this situation and compliance with almost all technological rules will the floor installed in the bathhouse be able to serve you for an incredibly long period of time.
