Do-it-yourself installation and connection of street lighting. Installation and installation of street lighting with your own hands How to install a street lamp correctly

Good illumination of the street near the house is one of the foundations of a comfortable and safe life. Installation of street lighting allows you to solve another problem, which is to improve the territory, emphasizing the architectural advantages of the yard and the house itself.

Planning

Before you begin work on organizing street lighting, you need to draw up a detailed plan. You can carry out planning activities in one of three ways, whichever seems most convenient:

1. Make several copies of the registration certificate. This can be done using a printer. Place the planned objects on the received copies. Draw up a drawing showing the lighting system diagram.
2. If there is no technical passport, draw the plan on the drawing sheet. To do this, create a situational diagram. This paper is convenient due to the presence of cells, so there should be no problems with scaling the area. It is recommended to stick to a scale of 1 to 100, which corresponds to one centimeter for every meter of land.
3. The plan can be drawn using computer program. Any organization app will do landscape design. You can also choose a special program for lighting calculations.

The main purpose of planning is to determine the location of system elements. The plan should show a diagram electrical circuit with all lights, sensors, switches, wiring. You should also take into account the costs of purchasing materials and tools. The plan does not have to contain absolutely accurate - down to the millimeter - calculations. The main thing is a clear concept that gives a clear idea of ​​what and how to do.

The plan must also contain a list of work to be performed:

1. Calculation of material consumption.
2. Selection of lighting fixtures and method of their installation.
3. Determining the method of laying electrical wiring.
4. Preparing the workspace.
5. Laying wires.
6. Installation of supporting structures.
7. Connecting street lighting.
8. Installation of monitoring and regulating devices.

Cable routing

Even at the planning stage, you need to choose a method for laying cables. Wires are pulled from the electrical panel in one of three ways:

1. Underground cable. This option is used most often, since in this case the wires will be invisible and will not damage appearance plot. The underground method of laying cables is the safest, since no one will damage it with careless movement.
2. Overhead cable. The most financially accessible method, as well as convenient in terms of low labor costs. However, it is used only when it is not possible to lay the cable underground, due to its obvious disadvantages open layout. They try to hide the wires under the roof or hang them on supports (poles). To reduce the number of supports, lightweight cables with a plastic or galvanized sheath are used.
3. Terrestrial cable. Used as a temporary option. Ground wiring is used, for example, to organize the lighting of a street Christmas tree. The cables are simply laid out on the ground.

Electrical wiring calculation

On at this stage the number of lamps, their type, power, length and cross-section of wires, power of automatic switches, as well as devices are established protective shutdown. Taking into account the fact that lamps are marked in watts, and electricity meters and fuses in amperes, to select suitable machines you will have to recalculate these parameters. For calculations electrical wiring a simple formula is used.

Pay attention! If you plan to install LED lamps, you will need a low-voltage cable. A step-down transformer should also be provided at the main electrical panel.

Creating an electrical diagram

For clarity, we can give the following example. In the area in front of the house, it is necessary to organize lighting for the porch and the area near the gate. Lay two wiring lines. On the first, the lamp and switch are marked as “L1” and “B1”. On the second line (coming from the gate), the lamp (“L2”) is connected to the switch (“B2”) near front door. Also on the second wiring line near the gate there is a motion sensor (“D”).

Electrical equipment for outdoor lighting must meet all safety requirements. When organizing wiring, the following circumstances should be taken into account:

1. Cables are laid underground at a certain depth - no closer than 70 cm from the surface. The cable should not be too close to the building - at least 60 cm. If there is a pipeline nearby, the distance between it and the cable should not be less than 50 cm. The distance between parallel laid cables is from 30 cm.
2. Overhead wiring is located at least three meters from ground level.
3. Lamps should be installed so that they do not blind neighbors.
4. Only copper wires meet modern requirements.
5. Cables laid in walls must be placed in corrugated channels made of non-flammable plastic.
6. Switches are located in dry places not exposed to direct water.
7. All luminaires must be grounded.

Required materials

To organize street lighting you will need a set of materials:

1. Wires. For outdoor conditions, cables with a double layer of insulation will be needed. All their cores have a polyvinyl chloride coating, as well as a general protective layer. Copper conductors are used since they do not lose their qualities when bent. At the same time, the cost of copper wiring is significantly higher compared to aluminum. If the cables will be laid by air, a tension will be needed to support them. To do this, a stainless steel coated wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm is pulled between the supports. The power cable is connected to it with small pieces of copper wire. If it is laid underground or along the walls of a building, it is placed in a metal-plastic box.
2. Lamps. For outdoor lighting you need to choose a lamp closed type with a sealed housing. The base of the device must be made of ceramic. Outdoor indoor lights are unsafe and will not last long.
3. Lamps.
4. Circuit breakers. The street lighting system must be equipped with an automatic system so that when short circuit do not cut off power to the entire building. The system must not be connected to a regular outlet. A machine is required on the electrical panel.
5. Switch boxes. The wires are connected to them. Steel boxes are used to install the lamp. Such designs can be purchased at an electrical goods store.

Advice! It is better to purchase the above materials from one seller, since in this case it is easier to get a good discount.

Selection of luminaires and lamps

Separately, it is worth mentioning the choice of suitable lamps and light bulbs. The most popular types of lamp designs include:

• wall;
• on poles or other vertical supporting structures;
• hanging;
• on legs;
• spotlights;
• diode strips.

Any type of lamp is suitable for street lighting, but they all have the following features:

1. Incandescent lamps. Currently considered obsolete due to wasteful energy consumption, tendency to overheat and fragility. Typically, such lamps are used only as a temporary option.
2. Halogen lamps. In fact, they are a type, albeit more advanced, of incandescent lamps. They occur most often. They are distinguished by efficiency, durability, and high-quality luminous flux. The disadvantages of halogen lamps include noise and toxic fumes inside the device. However, in street conditions these shortcomings are not critical.
3. Mercury lamps. These include almost all street lamps Soviet-style. Control is carried out using a starting device. The connection speed of a mercury lamp is associated with temperature environment. In cold weather, the lamp lights up noticeably longer. Mercury lamps are unstable to voltage surges, as a result of which they often fail. The lamps are prone to overheating, which is compensated by the presence of special heat-resistant wires. Mercury lamps are designed to illuminate large areas.
4. Metal halide lamps. They contain mercury, inert gas, and halogens. Due to heating solids A gas is formed that produces radiation. The power of a metal halide lamp depends on the number of bases used. Such lamps are characterized by energy efficiency, high luminous efficiency, and high-quality color reproduction. Disadvantages include high cost and lengthy startup process.
5. Fluorescent lamps. They are the most progressive light source to date. The advantages of such lamps include efficiency, long term operation, no overheating and flickering, high-quality light. Among the disadvantages are high cost, gradual decrease in the brightness of the glow.

When purchasing an outdoor lamp, you should pay attention to the following characteristics:

1. Level of protection from external influences. Each lamp is marked with the letters IP and a numerical code (two digits). A street lamp must have a degree of protection of at least IP65. Lamps with IP68 code - more best option, they are able to be under water and not lose their working qualities.
2. The material from which the lamp body is made. In outdoor conditions, the best option is a metal (aluminum) housing. Plastic structures not suitable for street use.
3. Deflector shape. Lamps round shape ideal if you need clearly focused light in a small area. Square fixtures illuminate large areas, while tubular fixtures are used to illuminate modest areas.

Sensors

You can save energy by optimizing the operation of the lighting system by installing motion sensors. These devices turn on the light when it detects a moving object within a certain radius and turn off the light when the object moves away.

There are other types of sensors, for example, those that respond to light levels. As soon as it gets too dark outside, the light automatically turns on. And, conversely, with the onset of morning it turns off.

All street sensors protected from moisture and dust. Such devices are used both in winter and summer.

Installation of a street lighting system

Installation of the luminaire on a support is carried out by performing several sequential operations. Before starting electrical installation work, you should disconnect all devices from the electrical network so that the installation process is safe.

Preparatory work

1. We remove all debris from the support installation area.
2. We buy all the necessary materials.
3. We are preparing tools for electrical installation work.
4. We dig a trench for laying wires.

In the process of installing street lighting, you will need the following tools and materials:

• brace;
• trough for mixing the solution;
• bayonet shovel;
• trowel;
• sand;
• cement;
• water;
• materials for formwork (boards, bars or plywood).

Installation of supports for lamps

Installation work is performed by one of several possible ways. The choice of a specific installation method depends on the type of retainer.

Fixing the lamp on the wall:

1. We mark the installation area of ​​the lighting fixture.
2. We check the evenness of the support using a building level.
3. We use a drill to make holes in the walls.
4. We hammer in anchors or dowels.
5. We fix the brackets in the wall.

Attaching the lamp to a pole installed on the ground:

1. Digging a hole required diameter.
2. Pour sand into the bottom of the hole and tamp it down.
3. We assemble wooden formwork.
4. We lay between the slats plastic pipe the required section. Then we run the cable inside it.
5. We seal the pipe ends. This is necessary so that the pipe becomes sealed and mortar later I didn’t get inside.
6. We prepare concrete and fill the formwork with it.
7. We place an anchor in the center to secure the support under the lamp. The anchor must be strictly vertical, so we use a building level.
8. We wait until the solution hardens.
9. We install poles on all anchors.

Installation of the lamp

Installation of a street lamp is carried out as follows:

1. We stretch the cables from the distributor to the area where we install the lamp.
2. We lay the cable in a trench or prepared hidden cavities.
3. We install the lamp in place.
4. We clean the ends of all lead wires with a knife.
5. We fix each phase wire to the central contacts of the lamp.
6. We wrap the twisted areas with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.
7. We make sure the integrity of the insulating layer, check the resistance and grounding with a multitester. If no problems are identified, tighten the nuts so that the lamp is securely held in place.

Connection to electrical panel

How to connect a lamp to an electrical panel is described in the Electrical Installation Rules. The PUE, in particular, states that the device housing must be self-extinguishing, that is, made of metal coated with heat-resistant material or heat-resistant plastic. The installation location must meet the following requirements:

• fire safety;
• natural light;
• the presence of artificial ventilation or natural ventilation;
• location in a free access area.

The electrical panel contains the following elements:

• electric meter;
• residual current device;
• bus zero;
• grounding bus;
• introductory automatic machines (30-60 A);
• high current socket outlets electrical appliances(25 A);
• socket outlets for low-current electrical household devices (16 A);
• automatic devices for lamps (10 A).

When all the circuit elements are in place, the connections are tested. Zero resistance with phase is also measured.

The luminaire is connected to the electrical panel after turning off the general voltage in the metering panel. Next, we bring all the wires to the correct places. Due to the responsibility of the task, it is better to entrust this work to a professional electrician.

The lamp can be connected directly or through a dedicated outlet. In the latter case, to de-energize the network, it will be enough to remove the plug from the socket.

Safety rules

1. It is advisable to avoid low-quality Chinese products; they can be unsafe and almost always short-lived.
2. Use a voltage stabilizer, it makes the system safer.
3. Install lamps intended for outdoor conditions.
4. Use reliable insulation.
5. For outdoor use, supports and brackets with anti-corrosion coating should be installed.
6. Wiring underground is located at the proper distance (according to PUE rules) from other objects.
7. The cable must be accompanied throughout its entire length by a support cable.

All work can be done with your own hands if you follow safety precautions and installation instructions. In the absence of at least basic knowledge of electrical engineering and experience, it is better to entrust the work to an electrician.

Hello, dear readers of the Electrician's Notes website.

To get to the terminal block, you need to unscrew 2 bolts with plastic heads (wings) and tilt the lamp.

The cores of the power cable are connected to the terminal block of the lamp as follows:

As you can see, . Phase (L) must be connected to a terminal with two outgoing white wires, zero (N) - with a blue outgoing wire, and protective conductor(RE) - in the center.

Now let's look at internal circuit utility lamp.

Connection diagram for a lamp for sodium lamps

Due to the design features and operating principle of sodium lamps, when connecting them you need:

control gear (ballast), also called a throttle or ballast

• pulse ignition device (IZU)
• compensation capacitor

There are two schemes for connecting HPS lamps:

In my case, the second scheme is used:

I specifically highlighted the wires in the diagram with the appropriate color, which you will see in the photographs below.

Schematic elements

Let's consider all the elements that are included in this diagram:

1. Ballast (choke)

In general, there are two types of ballasts (chokes):

• electromagnetic or inductive (EMPRA)
• electronic (electronic ballasts)

Each ballast has its own advantages and disadvantages. I will tell you about this in my next articles (in order not to miss new articles, subscribe to the newsletter).

The luminaire in question uses a domestic built-in electromagnetic single-winding ballast (choke) “Galad” 1I70DNaT46N-666 UHL2. It is connected in series with the lamp, thereby limiting and stabilizing its current consumption. By the way, it weighs 1.3 (kg) and its retail price is about 350-390 rubles.

My point is that you should be guided by prices, in case you have to change it, because they often fail. There may be several reasons: an interturn short circuit in the winding, or a break in it.

The throttle body shows its connection diagram and some characteristics.

• power 70 (W)
• voltage 220 (V)
• operating current of lamp 1 (A)
• starting current of the lamp is no more than 1.6 (A)
• power factor 0.38
• current consumed from the network 0.54 (A)
• maximum permissible temperature windings in operating mode 130°С

2. Pulse ignition device (IZU)

There are two types of IZU:

• with three terminals
• with two terminals

In our example, we use the domestic compact IZU-1M 35/70-3 from Remar LLC with three terminals. The retail price is about 120-150 rubles.

The IZU is necessary to “start” the HPS lamp. When the lamp is turned on, it delivers a short-term high-voltage pulse of 1.8-2.5 (kV), which ensures breakdown of the gas gap in the lamp bulb.

IZU is not required for DRL lamps.

The connection diagram and some characteristics can be seen on its body.

• voltage 220 (V)
• response voltage 170-195 (V)
• HPS lamp power 35-70 (W)
• parallel connection type
• pulse amplitude 1.8-2.5 (kV)
• pulse duration not less than 1.62 (μs)

3. Capacitor

To increase the power factor (cosine “phi”) of the lamp, a capacitor is used. In my case, this is a polypropylene film capacitor K78-99 with a capacity of 10±10% (uF) with a voltage of 250 (V), which is connected in parallel to the supply network (directly to the terminal block).

Before compensation, the cosine of the lamp was 0.38, after compensation it was 0.85.

Each type of inductor requires a certain capacitor capacity. You can calculate it using formulas yourself, or you can use special tables from manufacturers.

Maintenance of luminaires with HPS lamps

If carried out in a timely manner maintenance lamps, their service life will correspond to that stated in the passport. You just need to periodically perform the following steps:

check the reliability of contact connections in the terminal block, inductor and IZU

clean the lamp from dust and dirt

if the HPS lamp burns out, then install a lamp of the same power in its place, and not more or less

P.S. That's probably all. If you have questions about the topic of the article, I am ready to answer them. Thank you for your attention.

Street lamps are constantly exposed to the environment: precipitation, gusts of wind, temperature changes. Therefore, to their structure and base they extend special requirements. Thus, the degree of protection of lamps that are installed directly on the street must be at least IP65. If the lamp is protected by a roof or canopy, the minimum degree of protection is IP44.

Stages of work: installation of the lamp on a steel or aluminum stand

Preparatory stage

We clear the place for mounting the support. We remove garden debris, prepare tools and materials:

• Any device for making holes in a material. A bracelet will do;
• garden or bayonet shovel;
• trowel;
• cement and sand;
• water;
• container for mixing cement-sand mortar;
• boards and bars for constructing formwork.

Calculations and postings

The standard connection diagram for the lamp is shown in the figure below.

You can connect various sensors to the phase or limit yourself to an ordinary mechanical switch. The cable is laid to a depth of 60 cm. If it passes under a parking or driving area, the depth is from 1 m. It is advisable to draw up a wiring diagram.

• For underground laying Cables with a double sheath and copper conductors are ideal: PVS, ShVVP, PUGNP, etc. The size of the cable cross-section is selected based on the power of the luminaire. If the power is about 1.1 kW and it is planned to connect a 44-meter braid of lamps, the minimum cross-section of the conductors is 1.5 sq. m. mm. When the line length increases to 73 mm, the minimum cross-section will increase to 2.5 square meters. mm. If you need to quickly select the core cross-section, refer to Table 1.

Section veins, sq. mm	Copper wires
	Voltage, 220 V		Voltage, 380 V
		Power, kW		Power, kW

• The depth of underground cable laying is 0.7 m. Minimum distances: before construction - 60 cm, to the pipeline - 50 cm, to parallel cables at least 30 cm (if possible - from 50 cm).

• Protect the electrical cable from damage during subsequent excavation work by burying plastic or wire mesh over it.

• All outdoor metal lamps are grounded.

• The cable should be de-energized before connecting to the luminaire mounting block.
• For electrical safety purposes, plastic corrugated pipes are used for laying the wire. An alternative is armored cable.

Foundation arrangement

To determine the depth of the foundation, you need to know the depth of soil freezing. The calculation is made according to SNiP: the formula H = √M×K is used, where M is the sum of all average monthly subzero temperatures, and K is the coefficient (varies from 0.23 to 0.34 and depends on the type of soil). But you can do it much easier without doing any calculations for your region. Use the data in Table 2 as a guide.

City			Soil freezing depth according to SNiP, m
			Loams and clays	Fine sand, sandy loam	Sand is coarse, gravelly
Arkhangelsk
Ekaterinburg
Nizhny Novgorod
Novosibirsk
Rostov-on-Don
Saint Petersburg
Chelyabinsk
Yaroslavl

The depth of laying the foundation for a street lamp can be made 20–30% less than the depth of soil freezing. Minimum - 30 cm.

Pouring the foundation begins with arranging a well, using a brace. The bottom of the pit is covered with sand, after which it is compacted and leveled. To strengthen the foundation, you can sprinkle a layer of sand with crushed stone, laying roofing felt or plastic film.

Now it’s time to construct wooden formwork: boards, plywood, bars fastened with nails or screws are suitable. After erecting the formwork, we place a plastic pipe or corrugation in the center: the resulting hole will serve for laying an underground cable. The ends of the corrugation or pipe must be sealed to prevent the solution from getting inside.

NOTE No. 1: if we are dealing with anchor type mortgages for, they must be installed in the ground, centered and concreted so that the ends of the studs are on the surface. The mast bearing will subsequently be installed on the studs. Final stage- fastening the ground part of the lamp with nuts.

  Preparation of the solution

It is necessary to mix cement, sand and water to obtain a mass with a uniform consistency. The ratio of cement to sand is from 1 to 2.5 to 1 to 6. First, a dry mixture of cement and sand is prepared, then water is gradually added and mixing is carried out. Ready solution must be used within 90 minutes. To make the mixture plastic and easier to work with, builders recommend adding mineral additives, plasticizers, or ordinary detergent(up to 100 g per batch).

  Pouring into formwork

The solution is slowly poured into the formwork. To avoid the formation of voids, you can use wooden tampers. The surface of the foundation is leveled with a trowel. It should rise above the soil level by at least 2–3 cm. The main thing is not too high, in order to avoid flooding with standing water. The surface of the foundation must be perfectly flat so that the street lamp does not turn into a “Leaning Tower”.

Installation of anchor and flange type embedded parts

Embedded parts are used for mounting supports. They connect the underground and above-ground parts of the structure. There are anchor and flange types. Anchor bars are studs connected at the top and bottom by a round/square jig. Flanged - ordinary metal pipes with square/round flanges welded at the ends, in which there are holes for bolts.

Embedded parts must be installed into the foundation after they are completed concrete work, but before the setting process. The flange anchor for fastening is placed on the surface of the foundation in a vertical position. Bolts are screwed into the mounting holes to secure the mast bearing.

Installation of anchor embeds is described in NOTE No. 1.

Connecting the lamp

After the underground and above-ground parts of the lamp are fastened, it’s time to connect to the electrical wiring.

In the mounting box of the lamp we find the terminal block. We connect one or two cables to it (if serial connection lighting cable). We connect zero to N, and phase wire to L. A third grounding conductor is also needed.

Proper lighting in the yard of your home is not only about the beauty of the area, but also about the safety of movement around it. If all the paths are clearly visible, then you need to try hard to trip over something.

Today we will talk to you about the installation of street lighting, we will analyze all the working stages and project development. The topic will be interesting, so pour some tea and read carefully.

So, the installation of outdoor lighting can be divided into three main working stages:

• Territory marking, digging trenches and laying cables is one;
• Installation of mortgages for lamps and, in fact, their installation is two things;
• And assembling the entire circuit and connecting it to the automation- that's three.

Interesting to know! The circuit can be controlled either manually or using various sensors, such as lighting, motion or sound. But most the best solution There will be a combination of these methods in one panel room.

Materials

What materials will we need for all this?

• Cable VVG-ng Ls three-core, cross-section 1.5 mm2. Of course, the cross-section will, first of all, depend on the current consumed by the circuit and the length of the section, but since today mainly LED lamps are used, and rarely does any object consume more than 16 A, such a cable is enough.
• This cable is not the most expensive, but it needs to be additionally placed in pipes, and if you really don’t fit into the budget, you can purchase an armored cable, to which additional protection is not needed, and thereby save money. However, it is worth noting that such a cable will be quite difficult to cut when connecting lamps and in the switchboard.

• HDPE pipes - in principle, we have already mentioned the purpose of this element - a protective sheath for the wire. Different pipes are used - corrugated, double-walled and smooth. The photo above doesn't show it exactly correct example– a blue stripe means that the pipe will go for drinking water. We need an option without stripes at all.

• The contactor is modular with normally open contacts.

• We will also include a light sensor in the circuit, or we will replace it with a photo relay in combination with a twilight relay. This will be the automatic part of our circuit.

• Street lights that you want to install on your site. These can be any devices you like. What distinguishes them from indoor ones is, first of all, the degree of their protection from moisture and mechanical damage.

• The machines are modular.

• Three position switch.

Now let's see how the circuit is put together from all this.

All stages of street lighting installation.

We won't bore you with a sea of ​​text. We’ll talk only about the most important things and accompany each assembly step with photographs. So, the instructions will be more visual and understandable.

Laying underground communications

Before you start digging trenches, you need to draw up a plan of your site, preferably on a clear scale, and mark the locations of the lamps and the optimal position of the routes to them.

• On the plan, be sure to mark all objects that may interfere with work. This will save you from unnecessary steps and help you accurately calculate required quantity material.

• Next, from the location of the panel board RShch-0.4 kV, we dig a trench 70 centimeters deep along all points of the future lamps, as you marked earlier on the plan.

• A layer of sand is poured onto the bottom of the trench. The height of the pillow should be 10-15 centimeters. If sand is not available, then loose soil can be used instead, but this option is not the best, since significant shrinkage of the soil will subsequently be possible.

• A HDPE pipe is laid on top of the cushion. It should have an outlet at the point of each lamp, that is, we bring it to the desired place, bend it upward and cut it off above ground level.
• We immediately lower the cut part down and lead it further to the next point. The result is a classic scheme with parallel connection light sources.

• Depending on the connection diagram and the method of placing the lanterns, it may be necessary to bring both three and four pipes to the surface.

• By the way, it would not be superfluous to install garden sockets, for which you also need to provide conclusions. This device will be very useful, for example, if you use an electric lawn mower.

• HDPE pipes have a cable inside, or in other words, a probe. With its help, the cable is pulled inside.
• Do this and leave 30 centimeters of margin at the terminals for the convenience of further work.
• The cable is cut in the same way as the pipe and stretches to the next lantern.

Advice! If the line in your area is branched, then it is recommended to mark each cable somehow for orientation during connection.

• After the wire pulling is completed, the cable must be covered with a layer of sand. Its thickness is also 10-15 centimeters. As a result, the pipe ends up inside the pillow.
• Then we pour about 20 more centimeters of earth on top of the sand and tamp it down.

• We still have about 30 centimeters left to ground level. At this depth, it is recommended to lay a warning tape, which may one day save someone's life. The price of such a tape is mere pennies, but it is difficult to overestimate its importance.

Installation of street lamps

Naturally, there can be no question of attaching lamps directly to the ground, except, perhaps, for the most compact options that can simply be stuck into the ground. Even short products require a strong and reliable base.

• A concrete foundation will be an excellent foundation for ground-mounted lamps, and even more so for lighting poles.
• We install formwork from boards at the outlets of HDPE pipes.

• It is knocked together in the form of a rectangular box. Its size will depend on the size of the thrust bearing of the mounted lamp post.
• In order for the lantern to stand securely, the base must be buried at least 30 centimeters into the ground.
• It is recommended to lay a reinforcing mesh inside, which must be raised by 5 centimeters.

• Next, the formwork is filled with concrete. For these purposes, a solution of grades M150 or M200 will be sufficient.
• The concrete needs to sit for several days to harden. After this, the formwork is dismantled, and the trenches can be completely filled with earth and compacted.

By the way, there are lamps equipped with special bottom cabinet, which sinks into the ground. For such options there is no need to make mortgages.

Their installation proceeds as follows:

• We fill the base with ASG, gravel or crushed stone in order to ensure good drainage for rainwater.

• Further using cement mortar The lower part of the base is well fixed. It must be installed strictly level, so use a suitable tool.
• The solution is poured only from the outside of the cabinet. It is not needed inside - there will only be wires and their connections.

• Next, the upper disk is installed and the wires are connected. Be sure to do this through the terminals, for reliable protection and contact insulation.
• Then the lamps and glass of the lamp are installed - that’s it, it’s ready for use.

There is another way to create solid foundation for lamp posts, and we must mention it.

• Take a flange whose diameter corresponds to the diameter of the lamp post;
• A reinforcement frame is welded to it, as shown in the photo above;
• A hole of sufficient depth is made in the ground using a garden drill;
• Next, everything is poured with concrete, naturally, after all the wires are brought out.

Such a base will be much stronger than the one we considered first in this chapter, and at the same time the mounting pins will be brought out, which is very convenient. But let's return to our first foundation to figure out what needs to be done with it next.

• We take the lower mounting part of the lamp post, pass the wires through it, place it on the base, and use a pencil to mark all the attachment points.
• According to the markings, we use a hammer drill to make holes of the required diameter and depth for the prepared anchors.

• We insert dowels into the holes - they can be plastic - and attach the thrust bearing. Everything here is simple and clear without further ado.
• Then all the wires are connected. This is done inside the distribution box, which most poles are equipped with.
• The connection can be made by any in a convenient way, but it is better, as we have already said, to take the terminals. This is both more reliable and much faster than twisting.

• It is very important to make high-quality insulation of connections. In some cases, junction boxes are filled with compound, as shown in the picture above.
• Before doing this, be sure to check the functionality of all connections, otherwise picking out the terminals later will be a very difficult task.
• The sealed box is mounted at the base of the pole, after which it is completely installed according to the attached instructions.
• Not all poles are equipped distribution box. There are more modern and convenient solutions when special contact blocks are included in the design - very convenient, but you will have to overpay a little.

All lamps and sockets on your site are installed in the same way, after which you can move on to the most interesting part - connecting them.

The last stage is connection

So, in order to connect street lighting with your own hands, you need to understand and remember the diagram shown in the figure above. As we have already said, it includes a photo relay and a starter.

• Our task is to provide two lighting control modes - manual and automatic. For this, we need a three-position switch in the circuit.
• In the first position, the lighting can be turned on via simple switch. You may rarely use this mode, but it will definitely be useful when the automation fails, which happens quite often.
• In the second mode, the automation will start, reacting to an external light sensor through a twilight relay.
• The third position “0” completely turns off all lighting.

• We install all the prepared equipment on a DIN rail located inside the switchboard in the following sequence, from left to right: three-position switch, twilight relay, modular starter and circuit breakers.

• From a separate differential circuit breaker in the panel we supply the power phase to the three-position switch. We connect the wire to pin 1.
• From this contact we connect the lower contact L of the twilight relay.
• The following sections of wires connect contacts 2 and 4 of the modular starter to the phase.

Attention! The picture shows the connection of the automation with jumpers. This is allowed only if the current in the circuit does not exceed 16A. Otherwise, the starter can only be connected directly from the machine.

• Outputs 1 and 3 of the starter are connected to the upper contacts of the machines. The cables that we laid in the ground will be connected to them from below.

• Next you need to connect the zeros. One is connected to contact N of the twilight relay, and the second to the starter coil A2.
• Place an ordinary single-key switch nearby. It will be needed for convenience, so as not to constantly climb into the panel room.
• We connect to it a two-core VVG-ng cable of the same cross-section that we laid in the ground.

• One of the cores of this cable is connected to the winding of contactor A1, and the second to terminal No. 2 of the three-position switch.
• As a result, if you set the three-position switch to the first position, then by pressing the switch key, you will directly supply voltage to the starter, bypassing the twilight relay.
• The starter will retract and the power will go through the circuit breakers to the lamps.

The next task is to install our photo relay:

• Please note that the sensor is not in the shadow of any objects or trees, but also under direct sun rays he shouldn't be there.
• If these rules are neglected, the sensor may not function correctly, allowing false alarms.
• The same wire is laid to the sensor as to the switch.

Outdoor lighting - connecting automation

• The wire is connected from the other end to the twilight relay, pins 2 and 4.
• When the external relay is triggered, the twilight relay closes its upper contacts - 1 and 3.
• Accordingly, you need to connect to them the phase that will come from the three-position switch. For this we use its 4th terminal, the jumper from which will fit to terminal 1 of the twilight relay.
• Terminal No. 3 from the relay is also connected to coil A1. We remember that when power is applied to it, the light begins to burn.

The operation of this part of the circuit can be fully described as follows:

• The three-position switch is set to position 2;
• When it gets dark outside, the photo relay is activated;
• Closing its contacts causes the twilight relay to operate, which closes contacts 1 and 3.
• The active phase is already supplied to contact 1, which means that when triggered, it goes to the contactor, which already has a zero connected.
• Next, the starter retracts, and voltage is supplied to the lighting circuit breakers, the light begins to burn.

As soon as light hits the photo relay, its contacts open and the twilight relay breaks its contact. It's simple!

So, we have discussed with you the standard connection diagram. Knowing the entire chain, you can even independently repair street lighting if one or another equipment fails.

The video in this article will help you understand the topic even better.

Lighting is one of the main factors affecting human comfort. Therefore, it is present not only inside the house, but also outside it.

Outdoor LED lamps are an excellent alternative to standard incandescent lamps, since with similar illumination levels, they consume less electricity.

Installation methods

Street lighting is done using various types lamps. This allows you not only to create an optimal flow of light, but also to decorate the area. It should be understood that for such purposes it is advisable to buy lamps that can withstand moisture and temperature changes.

Installation of such systems can be carried out in several main ways:

• Wall mounting. For installation, lamps equipped with a special frame are used. The device is fixed using a dowel or anchor.
• Installation in the foundation. This approach very often involves using metal supports, which turn it into a lantern. To install such a lamp, select metal pipe, to which the device is fixed. Then the entire structure is installed in the soil and filled with concrete.

Connection algorithm

Before you begin solving this problem, you should connect the lamp to electrical cable from the power source. If lights are installed throughout the territory, it would be more logical to lay the cable underground so that it does not interfere with a person’s movement.

The connection process can be divided into several successive steps:

1. Electrical wiring. For this you can use various ways, the main thing is that the system is safe.
2. Removing the protective cover. It is often located at the back of the device and is secured with several screws or self-tapping screws.
3. Connection. This circuit is quite simple and requires combining the phase and neutral of the cable to the corresponding terminals on the lamp. Fixing the wire can be done either using spring clamps or using bolt fastenings. Please note that many lamps can only operate on 12 or 24 V. Therefore, be sure to connect a power supply designed for these indicators in front of it.

As you can see, the connection process street lamps is quite simple and only requires compliance with the manufacturer’s basic recommendations. If you're not sure you can do it yourself, have it done by an experienced electrician.