Orchid is an incredibly beautiful plant! This is probably why it can be increasingly seen in homes and on the windows of large organizations. A healthy plant will complement any interior, emphasize the good taste of the owners and become a real decoration of the room!
It happens that the leaves of the plant begin to acquire a black tint. Gradually they completely darken and disappear. It happens that the plant itself soon dies. Why this happens is difficult for an inexperienced person to understand, as well as what to do about it?
Due to ignorance, it is difficult to see the reason for what is happening, in principle there is none! It’s just that an orchid, like any plant, is not too picky, it requires proper care and maintenance for normal existence!
Reasons for blackening of indoor orchid leaves
- Some types of orchids, after the flowering period, shed their leaves, which first acquire a black tint.
- The air in which the plant is located is too humid or, conversely, dry.
- Watering is done rarely or quite often, which is not at all appropriate given the humidity of the room or this time of year.
- The leaves of the plant are being eaten by some kind of mite, which can be easily seen from the back side.
- The room temperature is not entirely favorable for growing these heat-loving flowers.
What to do?
When purchasing this magical flower, immediately ask what type of plant it is, what family it belongs to, and what kind of care it needs? If you constantly grow orchids at home, this does not mean that care for this particular plant should be identical to that of its fellows.
As soon as you notice that some leaves begin to change color, become limp and dry, it’s time to sound the alarm! If you do not provide help, the orchid will begin to slowly fade and may disappear.
The first thing to do is to remove all healthy flowers that are nearby from this plant. Neighboring plants run the risk of becoming infected, and then even more flowers will have to be revived.
Inspect carefully sick plant, remove all blackened leaves. Disinfect the scissors used for processing. If you find pests on the leaves, treat the plant with trichopolum or foundationazole. The drugs can be purchased at the pharmacy and used according to the instructions.
When visible reasons, and in particular there are no pests, then you need to change the care. Firstly, look, perhaps the orchid is in a cold place and it is simply freezing. Pay attention to the presence of drafts and sufficient sun rays. It should be light, but not too much; the leaves may burn from direct sun contact.
Pay attention to the humidity in the room. If it is high, then reduce the frequency of watering. In low humidity, try to spray the entire surface of the plant with water as often as possible.
The sooner you start treating the leaves, the faster your beloved orchid will become healthy and healthy again. beautiful plant! By postponing treatment until later, you risk destroying this delicate and incomparably beautiful plant!
The house orchid, or as scientists call it - Phalaenopsis, can rightfully be called one of the most tenacious, but demanding of care, window plants. You need to put in a minimum of effort, but in return you will receive gratitude in the form abundant flowering for a period of about six months, or even more. However, no matter how tenacious home orchids are, even they can catch the disease and begin to fade.
Orchid Phalaenopsis diseases at home - photo But how to recognize orchid disease at an early stage, or better yet, prevent its occurrence altogether? This article is devoted to the answers to these questions.
Prevention of Phalaenopsis diseases
Prevention should begin at the very moment when the flower first appeared in your apartment. So, such a wonderful living decoration as the indoor Phalaenopsis orchid has appeared in your home. It doesn’t matter at all how the green pet was obtained, whether you took it from friends or bought it in flower shop, whether this is the only new building, or just part of a huge greenhouse, the rules are the same for all cases: water procedures and a month-long quarantine.
There is no other way, because in addition to luxurious and unpretentious decoration, you can also acquire various uninvited guests, such as various harmful fungi, insects, or bacteria that can threaten not only the orchid itself, but also all your plants, or even family members.
Orchid pests and their treatment
It is very easy to get rid of insects, you just need to place the substrate in a container with water for about an hour, after this time, all the pests of the orchid will float to the surface, even those that were initially hidden from view. But this method is not a panacea, and to be sure that nothing is left, you should place the phalaenopsis separately from other plants and observe for a month.
Signs of illness
Symptoms of the disease can be very different, but the most common are changes such as yellowing, rotting, or cracking of foliage; damage to the root system - for good reason, the roots should be strong enough and have a greenish or silver color, and the plant itself should be perfectly held in the substrate. However, if the root is brownish-brown in color, is dry and breaks easily, then it is necessary to take emergency measures to treat the plant.
Orchid - root treatment
First you need to very carefully free the roots of the flower from the substrate. After which, having previously disinfected the tools with alcohol, it is necessary to cut off all dead tissue in the root system.
The amputation sites should be treated with activated carbon in powder form.
It is also advisable to remove leaves occupied by infection, of course, if they are not the last ones.
If you plan to use old soil to plant an orchid, be sure to boil it and wait until it cools down until room temperature. It is better to put it in the pot while still wet. While you are busy preparing the soil, the roots of the flower itself should be kept in plastic bag, filled carbon dioxide. When the flower takes its place permanent place, it should not be watered until the substrate is completely dry, which usually takes about ten to fourteen days.
Video: Treatment of phalaenopsis orchid roots
Phalaenopsis orchid leaf diseases
Phalaenopsis is a plant that is very demanding of special conditions. At improper care behind phalaenopsis, the leaves may begin to turn yellow. There are many reasons for these yellowings, which we will now consider.
Light-related leaf diseases
First of all, we will look at the lighting problem. The leaves of the phalaenopsis orchid can turn yellow either from a lack of light or from an excess. It is better to illuminate the plant with bright, diffused light. Do not place phalaenopsis in the back of the room or in the scorching midday sun. Due to lack of light, the leaves of the plant grow narrower and smaller, and the stem becomes elongated.
From an excess of light, the leaves will burn and have a pale color, they may turn yellow and become lethargic and rough. Optimizing lighting or treating leaves with different preparations can stop leaf dying. Unfortunately, this will not restore the old leaves, but the new ones will grow strong and green.
Aging of the lower leaves of an orchid
The second reason we will consider is the natural aging of the lower leaves. Usually, one orchid leaf lives life cycle in the amount of 1 to 5 years, depending on the type of phalaenopsis. When the life cycle of a leaf ends, it simply dies, while its tips turn yellow towards the base and, when exhausted, dry out. Another reason for the dying off of leaves is the lack of strength to create new roots in phalaenopsis.
Phalaenopsis orchid - lower leaves turn yellow In this case, the plant begins to feed on substances from lower leaves and, thereby, forming new roots. If the leaves are dead naturally, then there is no need to hastily delete yellow leaves. You need to let the orchid collect everything from it useful material and microelements. When this happens, the dead leaf will move away from the orchid on its own, without additional help.
The leaves are turning yellow
A common problem that the leaves of the phalaenopsis plant may suffer from is insufficient or excessive watering. As a rule, the leaves begin to turn yellow from below and have all the usual signs that are characteristic of improper watering.
Phalaenopsis orchid - leaves turn yellow If the plants are watered too often, the leaves become soft, the roots darken and black spots appear on the stem. But, excessive watering threatens the death of the entire plant and, most likely, it will need to be revived. Also, if you do not water the orchid enough, the roots will dry out and become brittle, and the leaves on the orchid will wrinkle.
Diseases of Phalaenopsis from feeding
Let's move on to the problems of feeding. Phalaenopsis is sensitive to different types fertilizing You can give the plant too large doses of fertilizers or not feed it for a long time and, soon, yellow leaves will begin to appear on your phalaenopsis, and the roots will turn black, which worsens the condition of the plant.
This is not the most a big problem, since the turgor of the leaves is not disturbed, but these leaves will not recover. You need to properly optimize nutrition for your plant. If you overdo it with fertilizer, you will need to completely replace the substrate.
Other diseases and pests
Let's consider the problems of diseases, pests and hypothermia. Orchid leaves can turn yellow from various infectious and fungal diseases. Most often, such problems are treated with special medications.
Pests pose a significant threat, such as:
- spider mites;
- mealyworms.
As with diseases, pests will need to be removed using third-party means. Phalaenopsis, like other plants, loves warmth. If the plant does not receive enough heat and is overcooled, the leaves may also turn yellow.
Phalaenopsis diseases and pests - photos Even a few hours of leaving the plant in a cold place is enough and it will begin to turn yellow. In this case, treatment will not be able to restore the leaves, but will help prevent the spread yellow spots on phalaenopsis. So choose the temperature of the room where the plant will be kept wisely.
Video: Orchid pest control
Scale insects, mites, scale insects, and aphids are dangerous tenants of our plants that urgently need to be gotten rid of.
Conclusion
In this article, we looked at the most common reasons why the leaves of a phalaenopsis orchid may turn yellow. Monitor the temperature, lighting, feeding and watering, and your orchid will be healthy and strong.
- Very beautiful flowers. Each one is unique and original. Proper care Taking care of the plant will allow you to observe gorgeous flowering and abundant greenery from year to year. But there are times when the bush begins to wither before our eyes. The reasons may be improper care or emerging illness.
Enjoy the blooms on your windowsill tropical flower many people want. But not everyone who has purchased a flowerpot with a shoot knows how to properly care for a capricious specimen.
It happens that, due to ignorance, a gardener diagnoses an orchid that is life-threatening. Immediate treatment begins, which can lead to the death of the pet. You should not use radical measures, but pay attention to the conditions in which the flower is kept.
There are several signs indicating malaise:
- Wrinkled, limp leaves with imprints of dots - the pet is hot, there are negative changes in the roots. If the dots are very pronounced, this is the result of a lack of moisture. Damaged greens turn yellow, dry out and fall off. Overheating occurs in winter time due to the radiating heat of the battery, in the summer - due to direct sunlight. Under conditions, moisture evaporates at a rapid pace, without remaining in the cells of the bush. When the roots suffer from the heat, the nutrient liquid is either not absorbed at all or in minimal quantities.
- In other cases, a wilting condition may occur due to excessive watering and stagnation of water in the pan.
- Yellowing of the leaf is a change of place of residence, causing stress, lack of vitamins (potassium, iron), root rotting, and natural aging of shoots.
- A crack in the center of the green fabric - the causes are accidental damage, abundant irrigation during cold ventilation, dry air and temperatures above 300.
- Stains dark shades with a yellow border - the result of prolonged exposure to the sun or close to the battery.
- Growths, swellings, bumps on outside green shoot - due to swelling of shoots as a result of abundant watering, mechanical damage.
- Spots, stripes on the leaves - burns after watering, appear as a result of irrigation in bright sun. The drops remained, the sun dried them out and accidentally burned through the delicate green coating.
- Changes in the upper young shoot, its rotting, occur when moisture gets into the center of the bush.
Orchid diseases: types and signs
Significant ailments are identified:
- Black rot - the problem is temperature conditions and pest infestation.
- Fusarion is characterized by yellowing green cover and the appearance of spots. The leaves feel soft, limp, curled, and have a pinkish coating.
- Brown rot - spots of a light earthy hue, watery consistency are present, intensified by darkening of the affected areas and grow over large areas. A start to accelerating the development of the disease gives frequent watering and a cool room.
- Root rot is expressed by the acquisition of a dark shade on the surface of young shoots. When palpated, the roots become soft and growing rot is visible.
- Gray rot- gray spots with prominent fluffy fibers appear. The leaves are affected, then the soil, and the inflorescences are the last to suffer. Distinctive feature is small brown blotches on the petals. The reason is frequent application of fertilizers with large amounts of nitrogen.
- Anthracnose. Small round spots appear with clear outlines of an earthen hue. They can grow from several closely located single ones and degenerate into one large black one. The new growth dries out the damaged area, leaving a dent on the body of the leaf. The reason is lack of fresh air.
- Leaf spot is a dangerous disease of infectious origin. The culprits are midday rays and excess fertilizer. Weeping islands form on the cavity of the process.
- - characterized by the appearance of a sticky white plaque. The affected areas dry out and the flower dies.
- Viral diseases are rare. Spots in the form of stripes and circles are observed. Marble stains are observed on the shoots.
Each of the presented ailments has its own symptoms. The only thing they have in common is the cause of the disease - an increase in temperature and an increase in air humidity in the room.
It takes a little action to correct the consequences of improper care. If overheating is detected, the bush must be removed from the battery (in winter period), move deeper into the room. At the same time, make sure that the bush has enough daylight.
Otherwise, it is recommended to turn on additional fluorescent lamps. If the plant begins to wither and the reason lies in waterlogging, drain excess liquid from the pan, dry it, and do not water for 2-3 weeks.
The flower itself will tell you when it should be provided with moisture - the roots will become faded and inconspicuous, and depleted.
With sufficient watering, the tone of the roots will take on a rich light green hue. If burns occur in the summer, it is recommended not to water in the early hours so that pockets of inflammation do not form on the leathery tissue. In addition, shade at lunchtime.
Black rot:
- Treatment. Remove problem parts and spray with Bordeaux mixture. Clean off the affected soil and replant in a sterilized substrate. Spray nearby flowers with Bordeaux or a preparation containing copper.
- Who can get infected: Cattleya, Parthiopedilum
Fusarion:
- Treatment. 10-day treatment with Fundazol (0.2%), by immersing the entire pot in liquid - 3 times in 24 hours. Stop spraying - it contributes to the spread of illness, ventilate the room.
- Who can become infected: Phalaenopsis, Epidendra, Miltonia.
Brown rot:
- Treatment. Minor damage - cut off part of the shoot with the affected area and treat. A massively spread disease - it will not be possible to save, destroy, or irrigate copper sulfate 1 time per month.
- Who can get infected: Cymbidium, Cattleya, Parthiopedilou, .
Root rot:
- Treatment. Spray with a solution of Topsin or Fundazol (0.2%), 3 times every 2 weeks.
- Who can get infected: Parphiopedilum, Miltonia, Cymbidium.
Gray rot:
- Treatment. Cut off the damaged parts to the healthy zone, irrigate the entire bush. In case of relapses, the drug for control should be changed - the fungus develops an addiction to the drug that is used. Recommended – Immunocytophyte.
- Who can get infected: Cymbidium, Cattleya, Phalaenopsis
Anthracnose:
- Treatment. Remove the affected leaves entirely and treat the cut areas. For healing - copper-containing substances. Remove and . Air humidity – no more than 70%, frequent ventilation.
- Who can become infected: Miltonia, Phalaenopsis, Oncyrius, Parthiopedilum.
Leaf spot:
- Treatment. Remove all areas with symptoms. Do not water for a week, treat with chemicals.
- Who can get infected: Phalaenopsis
Powdery mildew:
- Treatment. Spray with a solution of colloidal sulfur, Skor, Topsin-M preparations.
Viral disease:
- Treatment. No treatment. Remove from healthy plants- destroy.
- Who can become infected: all types.
Thus, if you do not act, you can lose a valuable copy. At the first signs of illness, it is recommended to take up the weapons of struggle.
– love abundant sunlight. But in daytime prefer partial shade; bright rays of the sun can burn the delicate skin of the green cover. It gets along well if you follow some rules for maintaining an exquisite specimen:
- It doesn’t feel very comfortable on north-facing windows. Normal light mode is 12 hours. If it is not fulfilled, then you should either choose another place of residence or highlight it. Otherwise, the arrow will not be able to bloom and develop fully.
- For all types exotic beauty an acceptable temperature is considered to be +27 C. Some species can easily tolerate an increase in temperature up to +32 C. In winter, the plant feels good at +18 C., The minimum threshold is considered to be +13 C. At this stage individual species begin to freeze, they urgently need to be moved to a warm room.
- Watering is welcome, but not abundant. Each type should have its own approach. In one case, watering into a tray, the buds bloom almost all year round. This method does not work with another bush; it begins to wither away at a rapid pace. Then it makes sense to try irrigating with a shower under direct jets directly into the ground. This method moistens the entire soil. It is recommended to water so that there is no stagnation of water, since excessive liquid is detrimental to the roots. Constant moisture is necessary only during the period of bud formation and flowering. With a lack of moisture, the leaves wrinkle and the buds fall off. Water is required at room temperature. A soft, settled or boiled cooled liquid is best suited. In summer, if necessary, watering increases to a maximum of 2-3 times a week.
- Does not need abundant amounts, they can have a detrimental effect on healthy growth. Feeding is useful only once every 4 weeks. Frequent supplementation tends to reduce immunity.
Thus, the orchid is quite a capricious lady, as in choosing suitable place, and in watering. To prevent the flower from dying, you should carefully monitor its condition.
More information can be found in the video:
When caring for an orchid, it is easy to make a mistake, since this flower needs constant care, it is easier, in order to avoid problems, to do everything in a timely manner; in case of illness, orchids take quite a long time to recover. What problems do you encounter most often? – Diseases can arise, it even seemed, due to primitive – improper lighting. To grow any flowers, you need to adhere to the correct lighting, the light regime should be moderate, shade in time to avoid burns, which do not pose any particular danger, but the marks remain long enough. Under no circumstances should you spray your orchid in the sun, as a spot burn will form on the leaves. By the way, improper watering also causes troubles, the basic rule is that it is better to water less than to overdo it, especially as this has a negative effect on young sprouts; excess and stagnation of water causes rot. It is imperative to maintain moisture; if you do not take care of this, but simply water the plant, the result will be fallen leaves. Poor watering also leads to leaves falling off and becoming dry; in very hot weather, use a fan to get fresh air. An important point Something to remember is that the flower cannot be in water for a long time and continuously, and if this is combined with low temperature, then swelling will certainly appear. In winter, watering is reduced. It is necessary to avoid getting water on the leaves, this will provide salvation from rotting and pinpoint swelling. In cold winter, at low temperatures, the leaves not only become covered with white spots, but sometimes also become frostbitten (frostbitten areas require amputation). During this same period, you need to stop spraying, as it will provoke the appearance of darkened fungal spots.
Disease groups:
Such diseases in orchids can be found infrequently, this is due to the fact that the cultivation of these flowers is very scrupulous; such viruses can only be detected in special conditions, or rather in laboratories, and if they are detected, then all infected parts must be immediately destroyed. At home, people very often panic without reason and mistake ordinary waterlogging for viral diseases, however, with proper care, this is extremely unlikely. An important fact is that viruses cannot be cured, but the flower does not die from them; if the proper conditions are provided, the phalaenopsis will acquire a healthy appearance and will live and delight with its flowering long time.
A group of diseases that occur most often and sometimes even result in the death of the plant. Typically, fungus develops due to poor ventilation, overheating or waterlogging, and it develops at a fairly rapid pace. In turn, fungal diseases include: root rotting (the most common and common), although the whole plant suffers, only the root rots, all other affected parts dry out, and sometimes crack or change color. Tracheomycosis also belongs to the fungus; this group of diseases is distinguished by the fact that it destroys the orchid - poisoning it from the inside, through the vascular system, thereby taking away all vitality and saturating it with toxins. This group carries an extraordinary danger due to the fact that it is difficult to identify the disease in the early stages, and in its advanced form, treatment makes no sense and the recovery process is extremely difficult to control. The main signs of tracheomycosis: the lower leaves begin to fade (possibly on one side), begin to acquire a yellowish tint, the stem, neck and roots begin to fester, gradually, the roots stop growing altogether. If all these symptoms appear simultaneously, then the disease is much easier to identify and stop, but it happens that they become visible already in advanced stages, when the flower needs urgent rehabilitation and diligent treatment. There are simply a lot of reasons for the appearance of spotting, for example: regular or false powdery mildew, rust, rot, anthracnose, septoria, stangosporosis, phyllosticosis, cercospora. If any of the listed diseases are detected, you need to know that any fungi are treated with the help of a chemical or biological systemic killing fungicide (which penetrates deep into the vascular system and is used not for the purpose of ordinary prevention, but as a direct eradicator of the fungus).
Such lesions can be encountered infrequently; the reason for their occurrence is the depletion of the plant and the penetration of bacteria through the tissues of the damaged walls. Bacterial diseases include: root rot, which quickly progresses, infects and gradually destroys the entire flower, first the roots die, and later the shoots; ten days are enough for them to completely blacken and dry out, characteristic feature the formation of rot - a specific, terrible smell, and spotting can also form on the leaves. The spots are black and brown in color, surrounded by an oily halo, their number increases at a breakneck speed. There are no special medications for treatment; tetracycline is often used. Bacteriosis is difficult to treat; it is difficult to talk about any comforting guarantees for sure. It can be difficult to distinguish a fungal pathogen from a bacterial one, so in such cases they begin to immediately use synthetic antibiotics and a fungicide.
It is imperative to take into account that the main, surest way to protect phalaenopsis from diseases, and then from difficult treatment procedures, is to listen to everyone as much as possible important rules Regarding cultivation, if mistakes are made, the orchid weakens and thereby attracts various types of infections. Basic tips that will help prevent and stop infections and diseases: strictly adhere to optimal conditions contents, study the history of the flower, its needs, a new orchid should always be in strict quarantine (from two weeks to a month), in order to be able to study all the subtleties, adapt the flower, and be able to protect itself from other (possibly infected) plants. When suspicion of a disease arises, simply keep it in dry conditions without using any fertilizers or stimulants. Pests can also appear from a poor substrate or poor-quality transplantation, improper watering, if the water is not suitable, the same applies to fertilizers, they should be used in moderation. The orchid does not tolerate drafts and dampness, mold, excessively cold air; it is undesirable to store vegetables or fruits nearby, because their contamination is not always determined immediately, and bacteria act instantly.
Orchids are grown for their beautiful, long-lasting, the most magnificent flowering, but what if everything doesn’t go according to plan? – When flowers become considerably thinner, become sluggish, or even fall off altogether, the reason is most likely stuffiness, poor lighting, dry air, drafts, low temperature or its sudden changes. The appearance of dark spots or dots can be associated with poor ventilation, low temperature, and the formation of rot. If there are no blooms at all, the temperature regime is disturbed.
Green plaque appears due to the formation of algae and excessively high moisture, the disease is most common among greenhouses, winter gardens, and greenhouses. To cure an orchid, you need to get rid of plaque using a gauze cloth, which should be lightly moistened with water; at home, potassium permanganate or ordinary laundry soap can be an excellent help.
Cracks appear as a result of unsafe relocation or transfer.
Yellowing and wilting of leaves (apical) occurs due to fusarium - excess moisture, watering, and most importantly - low temperature of the habitat. In case of Fusarium wilt, it would be helpful to reduce watering, trim the affected parts with sterile instruments, and then treat them with Fundazol.
Removing bacterial rot (depressed dark spots) consists of destroying the leaves to full, non-diseased tissue with a well-sterilized instrument; treatment can be carried out with fungicides.
Bacterial spotting, namely the formation of brown spots (having a yellow/white rim) on phalaenopsis leaves, is treated by isolating, removing infected parts, and treating sections activated carbon, sulfur, wood ash (any antibacterial drug; during the treatment process, be sure to maintain moderate contact with water.
Viruses rarely attack, but they are the most dangerous, especially if there are a lot of flowers, because they spread with lightning speed, so if darkened strokes appear on the leaves, which smoothly flow into stripes, then the flower urgently needs to be destroyed.
From sunburn It’s easy to protect yourself, it will be enough: shade during the hot seasons of the year, do not spray in direct sunlight. Withered leaves are directly related to the condition of the root system, this means its rotting, if you inspect the roots in a timely manner, remove damaged ones, treat medications against the fungus, the condition will normalize and the flower will return to vigorous bloom.
When the leaves are uneven, ugly and poorly colored, then it’s time to address the issue of mineral nutrition (use complex fertilizers). If damaged or broken, the aerial roots dry out; to prevent this from happening, you need to straighten the broken particle and treat it with activated carbon.
When the roots dry out for no apparent reason, then most obviously the problem lies in poor watering and humidity, respectively - it is necessary to increase the number of waterings and use a humidifier. Also, with poor watering, the roots may dry out while in the substrate; in this case, the container with the plant should be placed in warm water Thus, healthy roots will immediately be saturated with moisture and acquire a pleasant green color. However, watering needs to be clearly planned and clearly understood that excess water will lead to rotting of the root system; initially, the roots will become spotted, and after a while they will begin to wrinkle and become soft and brown. The right decision Preservation of phalaenopsis is: moderate watering, timely replanting, processing.
Pests and methods of their destruction
- a common insect, this one is dangerous small pest with its columnar settlements, its shape is similar to a drop, the color of aphids: green, yellow, black.
- miniature elongated flies with wings, spread white or transparent larvae, they spoil the youngest and most unprotected particles of the orchid, the flower becomes covered with spots, stripes, bumps, and then falls off. The situation has two ways out: spray with insecticides or use laundry soap several times a week (this will help eliminate the larvae).
- an insect that appearance looks like cotton wool, settles on the leaves and sucks out the juice, they become yellowish and lethargic. Treatment with vodka, alcohol and, of course, Aktara will help; the cleansing procedure must be carried out a couple of times within two weeks.
- are eliminated quickly, these are peculiar growths that are characterized by stickiness; they are treated with vodka, alcohol, soap; if they are present, you need to increase the humidity.
Spider mite has a red color, appears at low humidity, moves slowly, due to the fault of this pest, plaque forms and the leaves die. Treatment with water and acaricides will help in the fight; in order to avoid encounters with mites, you need to: protect the orchid from the slightest winds, drafts, spray with lukewarm water, keep new plants in quarantine for a certain period.
The leaves and flowers of a healthy orchid delight the eyes of its owners for a long time. From a glance experienced gardener spots on orchid leaves, which sometimes appear for no reason, will not be hidden. Why did these white dots appear and what to do to treat the spots that are visible on the leaves of the phalaenopsis orchid?
Any depigmentation of a plant always indicates the presence of certain disturbances in its life. These may be white spots, watery spotting, which over time turns into necrotic black spots, dry brown spots, in whose place plant tissue crumbles and breaks off. Spots that may appear on the leaves of phalaenopsis indicate illness or impaired mineral nutrition of your pet.
Depending on the cause of the spots, they will have to be treated differently. Therefore, it is important to distinguish between signs of diseases and physiological problems of the plant. Let's take a closer look at why spots appear. different colors, and the worst thing is white spots on the leaves of the orchid.
Phalaenopsis diseases
There is a large list of diseases whose symptoms are spots on the leaves. They can be divided into two categories - diseases caused by fungi and diseases caused by bacteria. Among the fungi, spots on the leaves are caused by late blight, fusarium, cochliobolus, pseudocochliobolus, pathogens of septoria and cercospora.
Bacterial pathogens of spotting mainly belong to the genus Bacillus, but there are exceptions. Basically, all these diseases manifest themselves on initial stages in the form of the appearance of whitish or yellow spots that eventually turn black from the center of the lesion. Sometimes the spots merge and form massive necrotic areas with dark edges.
Hives
Urticaria is caused by the fungus Uredo Japanika. appear on the leaves dark spots diameter up to 3 mm. Over time, the entire surface of the plant is affected, which is why it dies. Typically, the occurrence of this disease is a consequence of poor control of the plant's environment. Phalaenopsis plants that are located in a room with low temperature and high humidity are most often infected.
Bacillus Cypriped
This bacterium is the causative agent of wet rot of orchids. This is very dangerous disease, not amenable to adequate treatment. At the first signs of disease, it is recommended to remove the affected leaf.
The manifestation of the disease is very characteristic and begins from the edge of the leaf blade. First, a dark watery spot appears there, which quickly spreads down the tissue. The affected area becomes sluggish, the leaf becomes limp, and an unpleasant odor characteristic of bacteriosis appears.
Rot develops literally by the hour. The light affected spot darkens within a few hours to yellow color, after – until brown. On the second day the whole plant turns brown.
Dry spots
The causative agent of dry spots is Cladosporium Orchideorum. Small spots appear on the plant Brown, dry consistency. Quite quickly they cover the entire surface of the photosynthetic organ, forming black sporulation on it.
Late blight
The causative agent is Phytophthora palmiala - fungal in nature. This pathogen causes black rot of the leaf base. An extremely dangerous disease. The pathogen spores can survive in the soil for a long time. It begins with the appearance of small black spots on the leaves of the orchid. Progresses rapidly, infecting and killing the entire plant. There is practically no cure. Phytophthora loves damp, cool conditions and infects a flower only in the presence of dripping moisture.
Mesophyll collapse
A disease called leaf cell death. The causative agent has not been determined. It looks like single brown pits on the surface of phalaenopsis. The development of this disease is associated with watering the leaves with cold water.
Bacterial spot
This term most often refers to spotting caused by a fungus of the genus Cercospora. It appears as white, concentric spots on the top of the leaf. From the bottom side you can observe the development of the mycelium. The disease will spread quickly if the appropriate conditions are present - high temperature and high humidity.
Phyllostictina Pyriformis
Yellow leaf spot caused by a fungus. It develops slowly, but on a large scale - the fungus quickly spreads through spores, infecting the entire plant. The spots are initially yellowish and later darken. The fungus is an aggressive necrotroph and quickly kills the leaves of a living plant.
Chlorosis
Destruction of chlorophyll in plant cells. It looks like an uneven, light striped spot on the surface of the affected organ. It is a consequence of a huge range of problems ranging from insufficient moisture or minerals(nitrogen, phosphorus) ending with the presence of root rot. Chlorosis is a symptom of the disease
Burkholderia gladioli
Unusual for our latitudes, wet bacterial rot. The pathogen Burkholderia gladioli lives in plant cells and causes local darkening of tissues due to the destruction of mechanical structures. The affected area becomes slimy and jelly-like in consistency.
Treatment
Treatment of spotting comes down primarily to prevention. Treat your plants in a timely manner, prevent them from freezing and stressing, and make sure that there is no dripping moisture on the leaves. At the first sign of disease, remove the affected leaf to save the whole orchid. Having accurately determined who is the causative agent of your disease - a fungus or a bacterium, use the necessary drug
Video “Orchid diseases”
From this video you will learn about mistakes in care and the causes of diseases.
