Sharpening a knife is a task that every man has to face from time to time. In almost every home now you can find the familiar sanding block. However, this simple tool is not the only (and not the most convenient) way of sharpening for kitchen knives.
If you don't want to buy professional tool- if you wish, you can make a simple but more effective sharpening machine yourself.
1 About the design of knife sharpening machines
The main nuance that distinguishes a professional tool from a regular whetstone is more precise work with the sharpening angle. It is the angle at which the cutting edge is sharpened that is the main requirement that affects the sharpness of the blade. If you correctly calculate and achieve this angle, even a homemade sharpening machine will allow you to sharpen knives up to razor sharp.
A handheld benchtop tool of this type looks something like this:
Support part. “Sole”, which is firmly attached to the table, and on which other elements of the machine are located.
Place for attaching a knife.It is made in the form of a clamp.
Movable rack with attached sanding block. The stroke of the bar must be limited so that the movement occurs in one plane, sharpening the knife at the desired angle.
A mechanism for adjusting the angle at which the block can move.
Such devices (with fixation of blades of knives or scissors) are more convenient. You can apply more force in them, since it is more convenient to move the block than the knife.
Some machines are designed the other way around - they do not hold a knife, but a sharpening stone, the angle of which can (or cannot) be changed. Such models are simpler in design, and essentially differ from a regular sharpening stone lying on a table only in the ability to accurately adjust and maintain the desired angle of inclination.
Such installations are suitable not only for knives - they can also be used to sharpen straight scissors.
1.1 Brief overview of models
Before you figure out how to createDIY knife sharpening machine -Let's look at what models you can buy:
- Lansky. Costs about 6 5-80 $. Has a clamp for knives (scissors), the bar is movable. Angle adjustment - from 17° up to 30 ° .
- SpitJack. Costs about $40.
- Aligner AKEFC. Costs about $90.
- Ganzo Touch Pro. Costs about 90-100 $.
- Apex 4 Kit Edge. Costs about 200-220 $. Suitable not only for kitchen knives and scissors, but also for hunting knives.
- Ruixin ( Korean copies of the above Apex). They cost about 30-40 $.
In addition to the listed models, there is a considerable selection of other similar installations. The approximate price range of mid-level sharpening machines is around $30.
Chief's Choice knife sharpening machine
You can also find more convenient (but also more expensive) electric sharpening devices. These include compact devices Chief's Choice (models 312, 320, CH-310, 1520). They cost from 120 to 250-300 $, and allow sharpening at an angle of 20°. The power consumption of the units is up to 150 W. So electric sharpening machine For flat knives mainly used in restaurant business. Naturally, such models are not suitable for other products (scissors, hunting knives, etc.).
In addition to electric models, Chief's Choice has similar mechanical devices. They are a sharpening stone installed at a given angle in the body. The user just needs to slide the knife through a special slot - and that’s it. Similar models are cheaper than electric ones (about $40-50 ), and are also used mainly in the restaurant business, for kitchen knives.
2 Basic information for creating a homemade machine
Making an electric machine correctly is not a task for an amateur. But to make a tabletop manual option- quite real.
There are many options for creating it, so we will consider only a few of them.
The most important requirement for the machine being created will be the selected angle - this directly determines how sharp the cutting edge will be and how long it will last.
The thinner it is (i.e., the smaller the sharpening angle), the sharper the knife will be, but also the less it will last. In addition, it is not recommended to cut hard products with a knife sharpened too sharply (at an angle of less than 15-20º: it will become dull faster).
Specific figures include:
sharpening angle of knives (kitchen, hunting) - 15-30º (or better - 20-30º);
The sharpening angle of scissors (hard) is about 50º.
2.1 First method
First, let's look at the simplest option.
To create the machine we need:
2 wooden corners (optimal side length - 20-30 cm).
6-8 screws with clamping nuts.
Sharpening stone.
Trance Portir to set the angle correctly.
The design is done like this:
3-4 holes are drilled in both corners -so as to fasten them together.
The block is installed between the corners at the desired angle.
The corners are tightened with screws, securing the block in the desired position.
For sharpening knives (kitchen, hunting - it doesn’t matter) or scissorsyou just need to slide the blade down along the block. The blade must be strictly vertical.
If necessary, marks with corners can be applied to the corners. To change the angle (or to replace the bar), you just need to loosen the screws that tighten the corners and move the bar. After which the screws are tightened again.
This device is good because it allows you to change the angle. Among its disadvantages, we can note the fact that it is, in fact, not much more convenient than working with a conventional sharpening stone.
2.2 Option two
Now let’s complicate the task: we will make a sharpening machine that is more convenient to use.
For this you will need:
A piece of laminate (chipboard, plywood).
Wooden slats (length - approx. 1 meter thickness and height - approx. 2 -4 cm), or two slats - one 50-70 cm long, the second - up to 40.
Sandpaper.
2 bolts with tightening nuts.
Wood saw.
Protractor.
Marker (pencil, pen, felt-tip pen - any marking tool).
The process itself looks like this:
Now - need to make a stand, which will allow you to drive the block at the same angle. To do this:
Now it remains make a sandpaper holder(which will be used instead of a sharpening stone). To do this you need:
Take the second rail and place it on the U-shaped stand and knife holder.
Cut off the required part (the one that goes from the holder to the stand, +5-10 cm of margin).
On one edge we glue sandpaper.
The optimal abrasive is from P600 to P2000.
AND The disadvantages of this design can be noted:
inability to adjust the angle: the product allows you to work only at one angle, chosen initially (this is not a disadvantage if the machine needs to be made for the kitchen);
To use sandpaper of different abrasives, you will have to make a separate strip for each.
As an option, in order not to make several slats, you can stick 4 pieces of sandpaper with different abrasives onto one slatted surface.
When working (sharpening), such a machine is placed on the edge of the table. The bolts protruding from below will rest against it, due to which the machine will stand in one place when the rack with sandpaper moves.
2.3 How to make a homemade knife sharpening machine? (video)
2.4 How to sharpen?
H so as not to spoilknife sharpening machine must be used correctly:
The movements of the knife along the block should be smooth, without jerking, and not very fast.
The pressure on the blade should be even. The pressure force is selected individually.
The blade must be sharpened evenly along its entire length.
If necessary, you need to cool the knife by lowering it into water.
After completing sharpening, it is advisable to sand the blade with sandpaper up to 800 grit.
To check the quality of sharpening, you can place it on a suitable surface (for example - cutting board) sheet of paper and run a knife across it. A well-sharpened blade will cut paper. If sharpened poorly, the sheet will wrinkle or tear.
The problem of dull knives is familiar firsthand to many owners who are forced to constantly hand over kitchen utensils to craftsmen for sharpening. Meanwhile, solving it is much easier than it seems, because you can make a knife sharpener with your own hands, using the available tools. This will save money on the purchase of a ready-made device or the services of professional workshops.
All about knife sharpeners
The easiest way to help owners get rid of the hassle associated with handing over knives to workshops is to purchase a sharpening stone. However, this option can only become optimal if it is possible to select a timber with the “correct” abrasiveness. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the main characteristics of the selected materials.
Choosing a quality stone
Sharpening stones, more often called stones, have their own classification, familiarization with which will help you choose the most suitable material. And if the owner manages to avoid the most common mistakes, then it can be used in the future as in independent form, and as the main component of a homemade sharpening machine. So, The following gradations of grain size are distinguished:
One more distinctive feature sharpening stones is their color, because the darker the shade of the selected stone, the greater the level of abrasiveness it will have and vice versa, light colors indicate the fine grain of the coating and its household purposes. It is worth noting that the performance of sharpening done with your own hands directly depends on the choice of this element.
It is recommended to pay attention to the quality of the selected material, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages. Thus, there are timber of natural origin from slate and corundum rocks, as well as stone for turning diamond and ceramic types. Among the disadvantages of the first option, it is worth highlighting the high grain size and rapid wear due to the need to constantly wet the surface of the stone to form a special composition that automatically increases the abrasive qualities of the device.
That is why it is better to leave your choice to artificial stone for sharpening, the length of which will exceed the length of the cutter blade, which greatly facilitates the processing procedure. In addition, you can choose a beam whose ribs will have varying degrees of abrasiveness, which will allow you to carry out the procedure for basic and final sharpening at home.
There are several types of manual DIY knife sharpeners with different designs and the degree of difficulty in manufacturing. Naturally than easier arrangement such home appliances, the less comfortable it will be to use at home and vice versa, a large number of components allows you to create very convenient models of sharpeners that greatly facilitate the process of sharpening the blade.
This point should also be taken into account when determining optimal design devices. It is strongly recommended to take into account such an important indicator as the volume of work, because if the owner needs to process only a few kitchen cutters, then it hardly makes sense to choose to make it yourself professional sharpener for knives with drawings and three-dimensional modeling.
To make a knife sharpener with your own hands, You can take the following popular models as a basis:
Particularly popular is a knife sharpener that is quite easy to make with your own hands, the drawings with dimensions of which were developed by the famous Lansky company. And this option is optimal for independent design and further use at home.
Making a simple model yourself
The principle of operation of the device according to Lansky’s design boils down to the fact that the processing of a securely fixed blade is carried out at a strictly defined angle using replaceable sharpening stone attachments with different grain sizes, as a result of which it is possible to obtain a very sharp edge of the cutting element. The finished device costs about 1,500 thousand Russian rubles, but the ease of its manufacture and minimum set necessary details inspires craftsmen to create more budget-friendly home-made analogues from available means at hand.
Step-by-step master class
To choose necessary materials You should start after preparing the dimensions and drawings necessary for making a homemade knife sharpener. To make the task as easy as possible, it is recommended to use finished projects, which can be found on almost any network resource. An example is assembly drawing, according to which you can independently make a Lansky-type sharpening machine.
In order to assemble such a structure, The master will have to prepare the following materials:
- A metal rod that can be used to make studs marked M-6 of non-standard length.
- An electrode of any brand intended for use in electric welding work. It is from this element that the corner guides are made after complete cleaning of flux and burrs, which is carried out using grained emery.
- Carbon stainless steel with an average thickness of 3-5 millimeters, from which clamps with through holes are most easily made. It is worth noting that to make such holes you will need machine oil, which can then be removed by treating with a concentrated soap solution.
- Metal corners of medium size (9 by 9 by 0.6 centimeters).
In addition, you will need nuts and other fasteners, the recommended markings of which can be found in the presented drawing. As for the processing of elements and their assembly into a single structure, this procedure involves performing the following algorithm of actions:
There are often cases when, during operation, certain imperfections of a homemade sharpener are revealed, although this is not a reason for frustration, because you can always make a correction, maximally optimizing the operation of the device and adjusting it to individual needs.
There are several important rules sharpening of knives, which must be observed regardless of how exactly this procedure will be carried out. This means the following subtleties and nuances:
- Perpendicular placement of the blade in the direction of the whetstone while maintaining an angle equal to 1/2 of the sharpening value (the last condition is not mandatory to fulfill).
- The sharpening angle should vary from 20 to 25 degrees.
- Start processing from the beginning of the blade, from its most blunt part. In this case, the edge can be painted black so as not to protrude beyond its limits when sharpening the blade.
During the turning process, characteristic transverse grooves tend to form on the edge of the blade. Their position relative to the base line of the cutting part must be perpendicular, because only then can it be said that the turning procedure was carried out correctly.
There are two main reasons why buying a factory sharpener is not an option. First, purchase an inexpensive device made in China, in further exploitation, will not provide the product with the required sharpness.
Branded copies can be a solution to this problem, but significant drawback- price. If you don’t have the opportunity or just the desire to pay a tidy sum for a device, you can make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands. There is no need to develop new designs; create your own creation based on already existing models. DIY knife sharpening machine, different types with detailed instructions.
We imitate a sharpener model from Lansky
This knife sharpening machine is presented in the form of two metal corners connected to each other. The sharpening angle is determined by the hole in which the knitting needle with the nozzle at the end will be inserted.
Of the options being considered, this one is the least convenient to use, but not easy to manufacture. We will improve the device and try to make a device for sharpening knives with a wider range of pressing angle degrees.
We take ordinary metal plates,
whose dimensions are 4x11 cm. Or more, all the same, during operation, the parts will be filed and adjusted to the required parameters.
Using a grinder to remove sharp corners at the ends of the parts (the sides that act as clamps). Using a file, we grind down the edges of the clamps; you should get a smooth bevel from the middle of the base to the edges of the plates.
According to the drawing, we make markings for future holes. We drill them and cut the threads. We round off all sharp edges and corners on the plates with a file (not only for the sake of nobleness appearance, but also for the sake of comfortable use, so that nothing gets into your hands).
We purchase a standard one aluminum corner, and make holes in it in accordance with the drawing above. We cut threads in the holes intended for the entry of the pin. And the hole that is intended to support the knitting needles must be widened using a needle file.
Next you will need two pieces of metal rod
approximately 15 cm long. We insert them into the outer holes and fix the insertion depth with two nuts of the corresponding diameter. In our case, these elements are equal to size M6. Into a hole of a larger diameter we screw a bolt (length about 14 cm) size M8, onto which a wing nut is already screwed, and on top of it a pair of ordinary ones, but larger in diameter than the bolt itself. It will be used as a support post for the structure. The remaining holes are for bolts that will be used to adjust the clamping force of the blade.
Nuts are threaded onto the ends of the rods, then corners are put on, which are again pressed with the help of nuts. By lowering them up or down, we can adjust the required sharpening angle.
The element that will hold the blade for sharpening is assembled from a thin metal rod (shaped like the letter “L”), two holders (the outer one with a through hole for a knitting needle), a wing nut and a rod with an M6 thread.
We imitate a sharpener model from Spyderco
This knife sharpening machine is presented in the form of a plastic horizontal holder with several holes. And each nest has its own angle of inclination.
Of all the options that will be considered, this one has the lowest level of sharpening quality. The problem is that the blade will be pressed manually, unlike the first option, without additional fixation on the support. But, despite this, this device for sharpening knives is quite suitable for use for domestic purposes, and the plus is that it is very simple to manufacture.
In the process of work, we will need two wooden blocks with dimensions 6x4x30 cm, two bolts and wing nuts of size M6 or M8, two thin knitting needles (curved in the shape of the letter “L”).
The tools you need are a hacksaw blade, a chisel and a hammer, a file with sandpaper, a school protractor and a drill.
Using a regular protractor
We apply markings with the required angle of inclination. We take the canvas and file the first mark on one of the parts. There is no need to go deeper than the width of the canvas itself.
Turn the hacksaw over and insert its blunt side into the cut slot. We place the second part on top and make sure that both the edges of the elements themselves and the markings on them match. Next, we saw through all the remaining lines in the same way.
Apply the chisel to the excess wood that needs to be removed. Lightly tap the top of the chisel with a hammer and knock out small chips. When the bulk of the wood has been removed, we bring the area to the required level using a file.
We drill holes for the bolts and spokes to fit in as shown in the figure. Using fine-grain sandpaper, we smooth the edges of the holes, the corners of the parts and their entire surface.
We thread the bolts through the larger holes, then thread regular nuts and tighten them tighter. The smaller ones contain knitting needles (necessary to prevent the blades from sliding down during operation). We insert the canvases themselves into the grooves and press them against the second half of the product. At the end we fix everything with a pair of wing nuts.
We imitate a sharpener model from Apex
This machine for sharpening knives is presented in the form of a fairly massive device with a stand and a platform placed on it at an angle; a rod is mounted on the side on which the end of the nozzle rests. This type of sharpening device, despite its dimensions, is the most successful in comparison with the previous ones.
It is easy to use and its sharpening quality is high. In addition, making such a knife sharpener with your own hands is very simple.
To work we will need the following:
- (not a whole one, even a quarter is enough);
- magnet (with slots for bolts, if it is not possible to drill them yourself);
- metal rod M6 or M8;
- Not large sizes wooden block;
- a small piece of plexiglass;
- two bolts and three wing nuts;
- 10 screws;
- 4 rubber feet;
- saw;
- drill;
- ceramic clamps (or wood blanks).
First you need to cut three small blanks from chipboard sheet. Dimensions of the first: 37x12 cm. Dimensions of the second: 30x8 cm, measuring 6 cm from the edge on the longer side, drill a hole. Dimensions of the third: 7x8 cm. We saw off an 8 cm long element from the block (section 4x2 cm).
We drill two through holes perpendicular to each other in the segment. The first is at a distance of 3 cm from one edge, the second is at the same distance from the other. Starting from the edge of the block and right up to the hole, we cut out a pile of wood 1 cm thick. The plexiglass cut has the following parameters: 6x12 cm. A slot is drilled along the middle of the blade.
We take the first largest workpiece
from chipboard and drill holes in the corners for future legs of the product. At a distance of 4 cm from its edge, we place the smallest workpiece perpendicularly and connect them together using 2 self-tapping screws.
We place the edge of a medium-sized part on the top of the small workpiece and again connect them using 2 self-tapping screws. The hole in the middle piece should be closer to the top of the smaller one. The free edge of a medium-sized workpiece is rigidly attached to the platform of a large part, again using 2 self-tapping screws.
Using a drill, drill a shallow cavity into medium-sized parts. It should be located almost at the very edge of its highest point, and the dimensions correspond to the parameters of the magnet.
We mount a magnet inside (so that it does not rise above the level of the surface of the board) and fix it with small self-tapping screws.
We place a piece of plexiglass on a medium-sized board so that its hole and slot coincide with each other. We pass a bolt with a washer on it through them and screw the nut from below.
A hole with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the iron rod is drilled on the free edge of the largest chipboard part. The rod itself is fixed using two nuts: a regular one and a wing nut. To prevent them from cutting into the surface of the board, we separate them using washers.
A blank from a block is screwed onto a fixed rod.
A bolt is inserted into the hole to which the cut was made, screwed on the outside with a nut. By tightening the knob, we fix the part at a certain height of the rod; when we release it, we move it up and down freely. The sharpening angle is adjusted using this bar (raise or lower along the rod).
The element for clamping the sharpening blade is assembled from a cut metal rod of two ceramic or wooden blanks and 4 nuts with washers. They are strung in the same order as in the photo. At the very end, rubber feet are screwed on for greater stability of the product.
We looked at three various options sharpening devices. And each of them has its pros and cons. You should choose a specific option based on your needs, as well as your skills in a similar work plan.
Information to note : , .
With the help of a knife we prepare food, cut food and perform other housework. Therefore, it is very important that the knife blade always remains sharp. Theoretically, there is nothing difficult in sharpening knives, but in practice it turns out that not everyone can sharpen a blade well. To have an idea of what to sharpen knives with and how to do it correctly, we recommend reading our article.
Before you start sharpening a knife, you need to find out what material it is made of. There are several types of knives:
- Carbon steel knives are the most affordable, made from an alloy of iron and carbon, easy to sharpen and remain sharp for a long time. Among the disadvantages, it can be noted that the knife blade oxidizes from interaction with food or an acidic environment, due to this, rust and stains appear on the knife, and food acquires a metallic taste. Over time, after plaque forms on the blade, oxidation stops.
- Low carbon knives stainless steel- made from an alloy of iron, chromium, carbon and in some cases nickel or molybdenum. Stainless steel knives are inferior in hardness to carbon steel, so they quickly become dull and require regular sharpening. The advantages include corrosion resistance.
- Knives made of high-carbon stainless steel are a higher class of knives, with a higher carbon content and additions of cobalt or vanadium. Due to the higher quality alloy, this type of knives does not require frequent sharpening and is not subject to corrosion.
- Knives from Damascus steel- mainly made as edged weapons, but there are also kitchen options. Damascus steel knife is a multi-layer blade made of different alloys high quality. The disadvantages include the high cost of knives.
- Ceramic knives have gained popularity due to their sharpness and ability to long time don't be dumb. But in addition to their advantages, ceramic knives have a significant disadvantage, which is their fragility when dropped from a height and poor resistance to fracture.
Sharpening tools
Touchstone (sharpening stone)
Sharpening stones are available with different numbers of abrasive grains per square millimeter. Therefore, for rough sharpening and finishing grinding, you need to use bars with a minimum and maximum abrasive content. In foreign-made whetstones, information about the number of abrasive grains is on their labeling. You have to choose domestically produced sharpening stones “by eye” or ask the seller which whetstone to use for initial sharpening and which for final sharpening.
Mechanical sharpener
Mechanical sharpeners are mainly used for sharpening kitchen knives. Although the sharpening process is quick, the quality leaves much to be desired. For this reason, for hunting and sporting knives, it is recommended to use other sharpening methods.
Electric sharpener
Modern models electric sharpeners, allow you to achieve high quality sharpening due to the built-in function of automatically determining the angle of the blade. The electric sharpener is great for both household use, and for sharpening knives in catering establishments. Model range There is a wide range of electric sharpeners, so the price may vary, but if you want your knives to always remain sharp, then buy more “advanced” and expensive models.
Musat
Musat - designed to maintain the sharpness of the knife edge. In shape, the musat resembles a round file with a handle. Musats are included in knife sets, and many owners often confuse them with a tool for fully sharpening a blade. Please note that with the help of musat you can maintain the sharpness of a sharpened knife, but if the knife has become completely dull, you will not be able to sharpen it with musat.
Sharpener "Lansky"
This sharpener is used for sharpening small and medium-sized knives. The design of the sharpener allows you to sharpen the blade at the angle you choose. The Lansky sharpener consists of a rod with a removable touchstone and two corners connected to each other. The corners simultaneously serve as a vice for the knife and a scale for selecting the sharpening angle. The sharpener kit also includes sharpening stones of different grits with ANSI markings.
Sharpening and grinding machines
Sharpening machines are used mainly in production for high-precision sharpening of rotating shaft blades. In addition to high-precision machines, there are abrasive wheels With electric drive and rotating discs for grinding. Sharpening knives on such machines should only be done by an experienced craftsman, because due to the speed of rotation of the circle or disk and the high heating temperature, with any unsuccessful movement, the knife blade will become unusable.
Do-it-yourself blade sharpening
Sharpening a knife with a whetstone
Sharpening of a blade made with a whetstone is considered to be of the highest quality, provided, of course, that it was carried out by experienced master. To sharpen a knife on a whetstone, do the following:
- Place the whetstone with low content abrasive grains on fixed surface. If the block is small, it can be clamped in a vice.
- Holding the knife at an angle of 20-25 degrees relative to the surface of the block, begin moving the knife along the whetstone with the cutting edge forward.
- Move the blade along the block so that during movement it touches the surface of the whetstone along its entire length.
- As you move, try to maintain the same blade angle.
- After making 2-3 movements, turn the knife over and repeat the sharpening process on the other side of the blade.
- Thus, alternating sides, sharpen the knife until an edge (burr) appears along the edge of the blade.
- Swap the coarse whetstone for a grinding stone.
- Sand the knife blade until the edge disappears.
- Test the sharpness of the knife by cutting a hemp rope folded several times, or try cutting a sheet of paper.
How to sharpen a knife using a sharpening stone, see also in the video:
Sharpening a hunting knife on a Lansky sharpener
Hunting knives are made of hard steel, so their initial sharpening requires sharpening stones with a low content of abrasive grains.
- Clamp the knife in a sharpener vice.
- Place a sharpening stone with a low content of abrasive grains on the rod.
- Select the angle of the block (for hunting knives it is usually from 20 to 30 degrees).
- Insert the rod into the desired hole.
- Lubricate the whetstone with the special oil included in the sharpener kit.
- Start moving the block along the knife blade, from the base to the tip.
- Flip the sharpener over and repeat the process on the other side of the knife.
- Once the edge is formed, change the stone and do the final sanding.
- Since hunting knives are mainly made with a double-sided blade, then after finishing sharpening on one side, change the position of the knife in the vice and begin the sharpening process on the other side.
- Once you've finished sharpening, polish the knife blade with felt.
How to sharpen knives in a Lansky sharpener, watch the video:
Sharpening scissors
Sharpening of scissors must be done on a special sharpening machine. Sharpening blades using improvised materials (sandpaper, the edge of a glass, etc.) can temporarily improve the sharpness of scissors, but not for long. If you do not have the opportunity to have your scissors sharpened by a professional, you can try to sharpen them yourself on an abrasive stone. When sharpening you need to follow a few simple rules:
- The sharpening stone should be fine-grained.
- The blade is sharpened over the entire surface of the edge at the same time.
- The angle of the blade should match the factory edge.
- The movement of the blade along the stone should be from the screw to the tip.
- Scissors need to be sharpened disassembled.
When sharpening scissors, do not rush; patience will be your ally in this matter.
You can also watch the video on how to quickly sharpen scissors:
Sharpening plane and chisel blades
Sharpening the blade of a plane and a chisel are practically no different from each other. Therefore, the sharpening process described below applies to both tools:
- Place the chisel on the whetstone at an angle of 30-40 degrees.
- Holding the chisel with your hand, use the fingers of your free hand to press the bevel onto the whetstone.
- Start running the chisel over the whetstone until a burr forms on the smooth side of the chisel.
- Change the whetstone to a fine-grained one and do the final grinding of the chisel.
- Check the sharpness of the chisel blade by removing shavings from the corner of the block.
In addition to manual sharpening, the chisel can be sharpened on a machine with a rotating abrasive disk:
- Turn on the machine and let the disc reach full speed.
- Holding the chisel with both hands, place its bevel against the sharpening wheel.
- Be sure to maintain the angle of the chisel, otherwise you will damage the blade of the tool.
- Do not press the chisel with great force and do not hold it on the blade for too long, this will lead to overheating of the metal and destruction of the blade.
- While sharpening, wet the blade with water.
- The final grinding of the chisel blade is best done by hand, using a fine-grained stone or sandpaper.
Do not forget that when sharpening products on a machine, a lot of sparks and small particles are generated that can get into your eyes, so be sure to wear safety glasses. To avoid damaging your hands on the rotating disk, wear gloves.
You can also learn how to sharpen tools from the video:
Tips for quickly sharpening a blade using improvised tools
Stone
You can quickly sharpen a knife on a hike or on a picnic using an ordinary cobblestone. Use any stone lying on the ground instead of a whetstone and run the knife blade along its surface. You won't achieve razor sharpness, but you will return the knife to working condition.
Second knife
It is quite possible to sharpen two knives at once, without sharpening stones or tools. To do this, you need to take a knife in both hands and begin to sharpen the blade of one knife on the blade of the other. After 5-10 minutes of this work, the knives will become sharper than before.
Glass objects
The knife blade can be slightly sharpened on the rough edge of glass or ceramic objects. For example, about the bottom of a glass or the edge tiles. The main thing is that the surface is rough.
Leather belt
A leather belt is more suitable for finishing and giving a knife blade a razor sharpness than for rough sharpening. But if there is nothing at hand except a belt, then you can try to sharpen the knife on it. To do this, you need to tighten the belt and start moving the blade along it; you may not achieve strong sharpness, but you will polish the knife to a shine. 
By learning to sharpen knives and tools yourself, you will acquire a skill that will be useful to you throughout your life!
Sharpening a knife correctly by hand is quite difficult. It will take some time to develop the habit of maintaining a constant sharpening angle, which is not at all easy. A knife sharpening device can make the task easier. There are factory options. But for good copies you have to pay a couple of hundred dollars, and this is clearly a lot. Good news The fact is that these devices are easy to make with your own hands. Moreover, many homemade knife sharpeners are no worse in functionality than those from famous manufacturers, but they are many times cheaper.
Knife sharpening basics
Knives have various applications and even in an ordinary kitchen there are several of them. There is one for slicing bread and other soft foods, and one for cutting meat, chopping bones, and other hard objects. And these are just household ones. But there are also those who take them hunting and fishing. If you look closely, you will see that they all have different angle sharpening (this is if they have not already been sharpened at home). It is the sharpening angle that is most important characteristic, which is determined by the purpose of the blade.
At what angle
The sharpening angle is determined based on the main area of application of a particular blade:
This general recommendations, introduced based on many years of experience. There are, however, options: some blades have several zones with different sharpening. This makes them more versatile, but the difficulty of sharpening increases many times over.
From the above it follows that the device for sharpening knives must be able to set the required sharpening angle. And this is the main difficulty in its design and manufacture.
What to sharpen
To sharpen knives, sharpening stones of various grain sizes are used. They are conventionally divided into coarse, medium and fine. Why conditional? Because in different countries The grain size has its own designation. The most convenient classification is by the number of grains per unit area. It is expressed in numbers: 300, 600, 1000, etc. Some companies also use English terms. Here is an approximate division:
In addition to grain size, sharpening stones are also distinguished by their origin: some are of natural origin (slate, corundum, etc.), some are ceramic and diamond. Which ones are better? It’s hard to say - a matter of taste, but natural ones wear off faster and are rarely fine-grained.
Natural ones are soaked in water before use or simply moistened with it. They absorb water and, during sharpening, an abrasive paste is formed from water and separated abrasive particles on the surface, which increases the efficiency of sharpening. For the same purposes, you can use a special little (honing oil) or a mixture of water and soap (whichever you prefer). In general, you should try all these options with each sharpening stone and choose the best one.
The shape of the whetstone for sharpening knives is a block, and it is desirable that its length be much longer Blades are easier to sharpen. Bars with double grain are convenient - coarse on one side, finer on the other. To sharpen knives for ordinary purposes, it is enough to have two bars with medium grain (different) and two fine ones (one can be very fine).
Manual sharpening procedure
A device for sharpening knives only makes it easier to sharpen the edge, so knowledge of manual sharpening techniques is mandatory. Without them, it is impossible to sharpen a knife correctly.
The procedure for sharpening knives is as follows:
At this point, we can assume that sharpening the knife is complete. Some people are still finishing the edge on the old belt. A piece of belt can be secured to a wooden block (glued, not nailed), rubbed with goyi paste. Then pass several times alternately with one side or the other, but turning the cutting edge back. This way the last grooves left by the abrasive are polished and the belt is not “cut” in the process.
How to make a homemade knife sharpener
All homemade knife sharpeners solve the main problem - they allow you to accurately maintain a given angle of inclination of the block to the blade, which is very important for obtaining a good cutting edge. There are very simple devices, and some are a little more complex, but they allow you to work with greater comfort. Choose according to your taste.
Some of the options are from improvised means
A simple device for sharpening knives
Essentially this is a holder for sharpening stones. Everything is elementary: two triangles made of wood, which are connected by pins with wings. A block is clamped between the corners at the required angle. You can set the angle using a protractor, a special program on your smartphone, or using the rules of trigonometry (right triangle).
Knife sharpening device - abrasive holder
When sharpening on such a device, the knife must be kept pointed strictly vertically at all times. It's much easier than holding it at a certain angle.
The same idea has another embodiment: on reliable basis make movable holders into which the bars are inserted and secured in the desired position. The corporate prototype is pictured below.
A homemade device for sharpening knives is made of wooden blocks. It turns out to be light, so that it does not move, it needs to be fixed with something. To avoid holding with your hand, you can use clamps.
Rotating holders allow you to set a given angle, and then fix it with the help of “wings”
Such a device for sharpening knives, of course, makes the work easier, but it is still quite difficult to maintain the angle: you must constantly control the verticality of the blade. Such a habit can be developed over time, but starting is difficult.
Device on wheels
Interesting option manual sharpener for knives with a fixed bar and a wheeled trolley on which the knife is mounted. It is made on the basis of sharpeners for knives, chisels and planes. This device also works well with a knife, but you need to get used to sharpening a rounded edge.
In this version, as in manual sharpening, the block is stationary, but the blade of the knife, mounted on a movable trolley, moves. The angle is set by the height of the bar relative to the platform on which the blade is mounted. The peculiarity of this device is that the table must be level. This could be a countertop made of natural stone, you can put glass on a regular table.
In the version presented above, the angle changes slightly, which is usually sufficient for sharpening similar types of knives - kitchen knives, for example. If necessary, the design can be improved by adding holders (pictured below).
All this is implemented very simply, as it resembles a regular construction set: planks with holes in them, everything is assembled with bolts and screws.
There is also a device to ensure the immobility of the block.
The advantage of this whole design is that it is easy to unfold the knife while maintaining perpendicularity on the rounded area, and it is also very easy to handle on the other side: you need to turn the cart over. For this purpose, four pairs of wheels were made.
Homemade manual machine for sharpening knives
Slightly more complex and much more convenient homemade devices, which are made on the basis of well-known branded devices. They have an adjustable platform on which the knife is fixed. The site is set at a given angle. The block is mounted on a movable rod attached to the stand.
Self-made devices in some ways repeat the design presented above, but there are some differences. There are many options. Let's give some.
Option one: a fixed platform on which the blade is fixed
This device is made from leftover laminate (can be used), two steel rods with a diameter of 8 mm and a movable fastener.
This design has a fixed base, to which a platform with a knife lock is attached on regular hinges. The near edge of the platform can be raised at some angle convenient for work. But otherwise she is motionless.
On a vertically mounted steel rod there is a movably mounted latch, in which a loop is attached to the side. A rod is inserted into it, on which the block is fixed. This loop is simple, but not the most best solution: there is no rigid fixation, which means the angle will “walk”.
Particular attention should be paid to the bar lock. An emphasis is placed on the rod at some distance from the edge (about 30-35 cm). This will be a permanent fixture. The second one is made movable; it is fixed after installing the bar using a screw and a thread cut into the body of the holder. The second option is to cut a thread on the rod and tighten the installed bar using a nut.
Knife holder - one or two steel plates mounted on a movable platform. They are fixed movably using screws and wings. Having loosened the fasteners, insert the knife blade and clamp it. It is very difficult to move it. Then, installing a pin with a fixed bar in the loop, adjust its height so that the required angle is set.
You can, as in the photo, make templates with the required angles and ensure that the planes coincide. After cross bar fixed, you can work - move the block in the desired direction.
This device for sharpening knives works well, but you can only move the abrasive along the blade when sharpening a kitchen knife. Classic sharpening - movement perpendicular to the cutting edge. This can be achieved on the straight part of the blade. If the blade is short, this will be almost perpendicular, but on a rounded part on a fixed holder this cannot be done. And all such devices “suffer” from this drawback. Once again: they - great option for sharpening kitchen knives (below is another good option from the same series).
Option two: with a movable platform and a magnetic holder
In this version homemade device for sharpening knives, the problem of previous sharpenings has been solved. Here the frame remains motionless, which sets the angle of movement of the block. The bar holder moves freely along a guide set at the desired angle. The knife is mounted on a movable table. You can, as in the presented version, make a magnetic holder, or you can make a regular one from a metal plate and “lambs”. Move the table so that the movement of the abrasive is perpendicular. Actually, everything is in the video.
One clarification: in this case it is very important that the surface on which the table with the attached knife moves is horizontal and level. You can put glass or use a polymer tabletop (marble will also work).
