The edging on the table has come off, what should I do? Secrets of using PVC edges at the edge banding stage

When furniture starts to peel at the edges, you need to fix it as soon as possible. Otherwise, it will be damaged and will have to be removed protective film and replace it with a new one.

Chipboard when cut is unsightly and is also exposed to moisture, so the edge must be sealed.

The veneer edges are peeling off and wooden furniture, but more often with laminated furniture particle board with melamine or plastic edge.

When cutting a board, edges are formed on which raw wood is exposed - chipboard, which must be covered. Depending on which edge the manufacturer uses, there are various options repair.

Glue-on edgings made of melamine and plastic are available in a variety of decors.

Melamine edges

Most cheap option- melamine edges, which are made of the same material as the film that covers the chipboard. Melamine resin is a very durable material which can withstand high temperatures.

Therefore, melamine edges usually come with a layer of hot melt adhesive, which can be activated at home using a regular iron. The tape with the adhesive layer is applied to the edge and from the front side, preferably through a clean sheet of paper, ironed with a warm iron until the hot-melt adhesive spreads over the tape and sticks to the surface of the edge.

Melamine edges are thin and have a layer of hot-melt adhesive on the reverse side, while plastic edges have a thickness of up to three millimeters and without glue.

To properly glue a melanin edge, you need to have experience in practice and the result will not always be perfect. The edge is very sensitive to mechanical stress and is not waterproof (depending on the material and the glue used).

Special irons are made for gluing melamine edges, but at home you will only need a regular iron clothes iron.

Plastic edges

More durable edges are made of ABS plastic (as well as PVC or PP), which, like melamine, is used for decorative edges of products from wood materials, such as chipboard, MDF panels, or porous honeycomb structural boards.

The plastic edges are uniformly painted, and the back side is coated with an adhesive agent - a primer, which ensures that the glue sticks.

As well as edgebands that are used to protect a straight edge, there are plastic strips that are suitable for shaped parts. You can also use veneer. But the front edge can be glued with a wooden strip.

Melamine and plastic edges are flexible, so they can be glued to curved surfaces.

ABS tapes are usually glued with special equipment, but this does not mean that even an amateur cannot handle it. It is also possible to manually glue the edge, even without special tools, only requires the use of certain adhesives such as two-component dispersion adhesives, polyurethane adhesives or contact adhesives.

ABS is a thermoplastic that softens when heated, so it is not made with a layer of hot melt adhesive and therefore cannot be worked with in the same way with an iron as when repairing melamine edgebanding.

Edge repair

Edge made in industrial conditions, is always glued with hot glue, no matter what material it is made of. Gluing with hot melt adhesive is the fastest and cheap technology gluing the edges.

The melted adhesive is applied to the edge just before gluing, so it doesn't matter even if the edge is plastic. Thus, we assume that each edge of industrial production contains hot melt adhesive.

A layer of hot-melt adhesive can be carefully applied to a peeling edge, or even a plastic one, using a hot-melt gun equipped with a flat tip.

If the melamine edge has come off, we can try to activate the remaining glue using an iron. If the tape does not stick to the edge, you will have to use contact adhesive. Apply it thin layer on both surfaces, leave for ten to fifteen minutes, then press the tape to the edge.

We will glue the plastic edge in the same way, with the only difference that it cannot be ironed with a hot iron. Because faster than the remaining glue on the back side would melt, the edge itself would melt. Therefore, the glue on the back side will be melted using a hot air gun.

If the tape doesn't stick, we'll use it again. contact glue or special polyurethane glue.

There are various cutters and scrapers for cleaning edges; practitioners recommend a chisel, a metal file and sandpaper.

Applying new tape

When gluing an edge, a tape is used that is longer and wider than the edge itself. We glue the melamine tape using an iron, and glue the plastic tape with contact glue.

After the glue has dried or cooled, trim off any excess that extends beyond the edges of the edge. For melamine, a safe knife or chisel is sufficient; there are also special knives.

The plastic edge strip can be glued manually and professionally.

With plastic tape, given that it is intended for professional processing, work is more difficult. Thickness of two to three millimeters requires the use of a special hand tool. cutting tool or cutters.

The tool can be a copying cutter or a forming cutter, with which we create a rounding on the plastic edge. The edges of the edge can be cut at an angle with a wood scraper. We do the same when gluing veneer or wooden slats.

Edge gluing process.

To attach an edge without a layer of hot-melt adhesive, you need contact or special dispersion glue, a brush, screw terminals with leading edge attachments, MDF or chipboard backing, top cutter or edge cutter, copy cutter or bearing cutter.

Everyone knows a fact that often occurs when edgebanding is the melting of PVC edges, especially for edges up to 1 mm thick.

There is a problem of wave-like formation on edges with a thickness of 2 mm after scraping, peeling of the edge from the part, lumpy edges of 0.4 mm, whitishness of the edges and many other problems.

It is necessary to understand what the reason is in each specific case more deeply than to attribute everything to the quality of the edges.

So first we should consider edge banding process, namely the reasons for the appearance of marriage on at this stage in detail, we are talking about using exclusively PVC edges.

The process consists of several stages:

    Gluing

    Trimming

    Milling overhangs

    Cycling

    Polishing

Gluing PVC edges.

Regardless of the type of machine, edge gluing is done using melt glue.


The likelihood of marriage occurring at this stage is very high. In order to avoid problems, you must:

    Carry out the most suitable settings by trial and experiment

    Select a suitable hot melt adhesive, taking into account the type of machine and operating temperature

    Take into account the parameters of laminated chipboard (humidity, friability)

The edge melts when glued.


If you use a feed speed of 2 - 5 m/min, you should apply a more heat-resistant edge, and it must be taken into account that permissible temperatures, declared by edge suppliers are reduced if the adhesive is applied directly to the tape and not to the part. We recommend changing operating temperature glue bath.

After gluing the 0.4 mm edges, surface roughness appears:

A very common problem, which is also not always related to the quality of the edges. As a rule, it consists in the incorrect selection of hot melt glue.

The fact is that the density of chipboard greatly affects the gluing process, and depending on this parameter, you need to choose the right hot melt adhesive. Lumpiness on the surface appears at a low chipboard density with the simultaneous use of unfilled melts.

The problem can be corrected by using a filled adhesive with increased consumption. In this case, not only the bumpiness will disappear, but the bonding strength of the surfaces will also increase.

When gluing, an uneven surface is formed due to the indentation of the chipboard structure:

This problem is easily solved. Simply move out the additional pressure rollers.


The seam between the edge and the end of the part is too noticeable.

When gluing PVC edges with a thickness of 1 mm, 1.8 mm, 2 mm or more, it is recommended to use an unfilled hot melt adhesive, then the seam will be as thin as possible and almost invisible, in addition, it is necessary to carefully select the tone of the glue to visually merge the adhesive seam of the edge and the chipboard.

The edge is melted on curved parts.

This problem is also worth looking at from the point of view of the type of equipment used and the type of adhesive.

For example, for manual machines, when the part moves around a stationary gluing unit, it is recommended to use melts with a wide temperature range.

For equipment with automatic feeding, when the workpiece moves around the gluing unit at a constant speed of 10 - 30 m/min, adhesives with a small temperature range can be used. Application polyurethane adhesives It is recommended that the adhesive unit be manually moved around the product and the adhesive is applied directly to the edge tape.

Overhang milling, scraping.


After removing the overhangs, a wavy end remains on the edge.

This problem occurs when the tool (cutter knives) is dull or the rotation speed is insufficient for uniform removal.

Increase the cutter speed and reduce the edge feed speed. The same thing can happen when scraping: a “wave” on the edge is formed if the scraper (knife) is not sharp enough.

There are chips on the edges of the edge.

Chips on a PVC edge after milling do not mean that the edge material is very hard or the chalk content is very high.

They may indicate that the rotation speed of the cutter is set incorrectly and the knives need to be adjusted or sharpened. Perhaps the problem is both.

Polishing.


In order to ensure that the edge is well polished and all remaining chips, glue, etc. are removed, we recommend polishing along the radius with a cloth polishing wheel and applying a release liquid to the surface of the chipboard.

Conclusion:

Based on the above, we recommend that when changing suppliers, you do not immediately attribute poor edgebanding to .

In order to make sure that the edge is not suitable, you need to check its use on several modes/machines, check whether the temperature and feed speed are set correctly, take into account the composition of the glue and much more.

Of course, the quality of edges primarily influences the cladding process. Based on many years of experience in the supply of edge strips, we recommend that when choosing materials you base your choice not only on cost, but also on other characteristics.

So, in order not to spoil the product/part at the edge banding stage, you must:

    Choose a reliable partner for the supply of edges

    Pay attention to how long the importer has been working on the market

    How many suppliers/factories does the importer have (to avoid quality differences from batch to batch).

We offer to solve your problems at the edgebanding stage.

You can, without reconfiguring the equipment, use the “LUX” edge, and save without loss of quality by using the “STANDARD” PVC edge. ().

We are happy to solve any problems that arise, and in case of a color change in the warehouse program/in production, we will accept a full refund.

We will be glad to become for you not just a supplier of edge materials, but a reliable partner who strives to help develop your business.

The edge is used to protect the end edges of parts made of MDF, chipboard, PVC from abrasion, moisture and impact. This finishing serves a decorative function, and also gives the edges and corners of the furniture strength and protects people from harmful influence a substance such as formaldehyde, used in the production of compressed wood boards.

If the border is damaged or peels off, urgent repairs are required. And in this case, the primary task is to select the material and glue for the edges made of PVC, melamine paper or other material.

Varieties of edges

From the variety of edges you have to choose the most suitable one.

Melamine

Made in the form of a self-adhesive tape made of decorative paper, which is impregnated with melamine resins. Typically used for interior decoration furniture. This budget option edges for chipboard, not characterized high quality. It has a short service life, is susceptible to moisture and often falls off on its own over time.


The undoubted positive property of the melamine edge is the ease of gluing it; this can be done at home yourself, using a regular iron. The second advantage is the absence of a side, a curb protruding above the edged surface, which sometimes irritates when it gets under your hands when working with the keyboard, and also interferes with sweeping away small debris, for example, crumbs from the dining table in the office.

It is a flexible tape with curved edges that form a side. This edging is made of PVC (polyvinyl chloride). Types of edging differ in width and profile: in cross-section, the edge resembles either the letter “t” (T-shaped) or the letter “p” (U-shaped).


The latter is easier to attach, but less reliable; craftsmen do not recommend using it on surfaces that are often subject to friction: on the seats of stools or benches, on the front edge computer desk, which is constantly in contact with the forearms.

PVC edging increases the durability and wear resistance of furniture parts, and reliably protects edges and corners from damage.

The edging is similar to the previous type of edging tape, but is more environmentally friendly. Made from chlorine-free plastic. It has found successful application in furniture production due to its heat resistance and impact resistance.


How to glue melamine edge

Update if desired old furniture and at the same time save money, use a melamine edge with glue. It’s easy to stick it, for example, on a tabletop:

  1. Cut a piece of tape with a margin of about two centimeters.
  2. Place the adhesive side to the tabletop and press with a hot iron or heat with a hair dryer.
  3. Hold until the glue words melt.
  4. Move the iron along the edge gradually, preferably no more than 0.5 cm at a time.
  5. Immediately after warming up and removing the iron, press the edge strip with a dry cloth and hold to fix it.

Advice! An iron or hair dryer will also help you remove the old edge tape. Just warm it up and remove it with a knife or thin spatula.


Fastening PVC and ABS edging

Plastic edging tapes, theoretically, can simply be fixed to the edge of the furniture, but this is extremely unreliable. Additional fixation with glue is preferable.

To attach the T-shaped profile, you will have to lay a recess along the entire edge to be processed. The easiest way to do this is milling machine. If you have the skill, it will be replaced by a drill with a circular attachment. However, in general the profile is intended for professionals.

To fix PVC or ABS edges at home, use PVC glue, as well as universal compounds “Moment” and “88-lux”; it is advisable that they be marked “for PVC” or “for ABS”.


Professionals use hot melt adhesives, which are part of a range of thermoplastics. When heated, they become highly elastic, and when cooled, they instantly turn into a solid state. The high fluidity and drying strength of the adhesives is due to the ethylene polymer with vinyl acetate they contain. The main disadvantage of hot melt adhesives, of course, is the need for appropriate equipment for the job.

When working with any border, try to calculate the sequence of pasting so as to avoid joints. Go around the corners with a profile - preferably they should be rounded. If the corners are normal, a thick (PVC or ABS) profile will not go around them, and the melamine edge will most likely break. In this case, you will have to make joints at the corners, which at the end must be sanded so that they are smooth. If you run your hand along the edge of the part, the roughness should not be felt.

Advice! You can easily get rid of excess edge tape sharp knife, and the ends are cut off first. Be careful not to accidentally damage the corners of the furniture. The direction of the knife should be towards the inside of the part.

If the factory edge is damaged or partially fallen off, remove it and replace it with a new one. A little effort and the table is like new!

(chipboard) the edges of parts without processing have an unsightly appearance. To put them in order, furniture edges and profiles are used. It is more convenient to work with them on special equipment, but you can also achieve good results with your own hands at home.

Types of furniture edges

One of the most popular materials for making furniture is chipboard. Its disadvantage is the unsightly edges that remain when cutting the part. These edges are masked by the furniture edge. They make it out of different materials, accordingly, she has different properties and price.

Paper or melamine edges

The cheapest option is melamine-impregnated paper edges. The paper is taken of high density, impregnated with melamine to increase strength and glued to papyrus paper. Papyrus can be single-layer (cheaper) or double-layer. To prevent the melamine coating from wearing off, everything is covered with a layer of varnish. To make it more convenient to edge the parts, an adhesive composition is applied to the back side of the melamine furniture edge. When working, you just need to slightly warm up this composition and press it well against the end.

Paper or melamine edge is the cheapest, but also the most short-lived option for finishing the ends of furniture

The thickness of paper edge tapes is small - 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm are the most common. There is no point in making it thicker, and it will be expensive.

This type of edges is distinguished by the fact that it bends very well and does not break when bent. But mechanical strength its very low - the edge quickly wears out. Therefore, if it is used, it is only on those surfaces that are not subject to load. For example, on the back of shelves, tabletops, etc.

PVC

Polyvinyl chloride, which has recently become widespread, is also used in the production of edges for furniture. A ribbon of a certain width and thickness is formed from a mass painted in a certain color. Its front surface can be smooth, monochromatic, or it can be textured - with imitation wood fibers. The number of colors is large, so it’s easy to choose the right one.

PVC furniture edging is the most popular material used by both home craftsmen and professionals. This is due to relatively low price and good performance properties:

PVC furniture edging is available in different thicknesses and widths. Thickness - from 0.4 mm to 4 mm, width from 19 mm to 54 mm. The thickness is chosen depending on the expected mechanical load or external appearance, and the width is slightly larger (at least 2-3 mm) than the thickness of the workpiece. There is a furniture PVC edge with applied adhesive composition, yes - without. Both can be glued at home (more on that below).

This type of edging material also has disadvantages: not very wide temperature regime: -5°C to +45°C. For this reason, furniture cannot be left outside in winter, and when pasting with heat, you must be careful so as not to melt the polymer.

Made from ABS plastic

This polymer does not contain heavy metals and is characterized by high strength and durability. A disadvantage can be considered high price, therefore it is used extremely rarely, although it has excellent properties:


This type of edge can be matte, glossy or semi-gloss. There are also options that imitate various types of wood. In general, this material is more convenient to use and more durable to use.

Veneer edge

Veneer is a thin section of wood, colored and shaped into a strip. This furniture edge is used in production for gluing sections of veneered products. Working with this material requires certain skills, and the material is expensive.

Veneer is not the most popular material for edging

Acrylic edge or 3D

Made from transparent acrylic. A design is applied to the reverse side of the strip. The layer of polymer on top gives it volume, which is why it is called a 3D edge. Used in the production of unusual furniture.

Profiles for processing furniture edges

You can trim the edge of furniture not only with edge tape. There are also furniture profiles that are attached mechanically. They are available in two sections - T-shaped or U-shaped (also called C-shaped).

For T-shaped furniture profiles, a groove is milled in the edge being processed. The profile is hammered into it with a furniture (rubber) mallet. The edges are cut at 45° to make the angle look attractive. To perfect condition finished with fine sandpaper. This type of profiles is produced from PVC and aluminum; with the same installation method, they look very different, and the differences are significant.

In width they are available for laminated chipboards of 16 mm and 18 mm. There are also wide ones, but they are much less common, since they work less with such material.

C- or U-shaped profiles are most often mounted with glue. They coat the edge with it, then put it on plastic profile, press and fix well. These PVC profiles there are soft and hard. Hard ones are harder to bend and it’s difficult to paste them over curved edges. But they have great strength.

If you still need to “plant” a rigid C-shaped furniture profile on a bend, it is heated with a construction hairdryer, then given the desired shape and secured masking tape until the glue dries.

We glue furniture edges with our own hands

There are two technologies for gluing furniture edge tape. The first is for those that have glue applied to the back. In this case, an iron or a hair dryer is needed. The second is for gluing tapes without glue. In this case, you need a good universal glue that can glue plastics and wood products and a furniture roller, a piece of felt or a soft rag so that you can press the edge well against the cut.

A little about what thickness of edge to glue on which parts. Those edges that are not visible, according to GOST, do not need to be glued at all, but basically they try to treat them so that less moisture is absorbed into the chipboard, and also to reduce the evaporation of formaldehyde. Melamine tape or 0.4 mm PVC is glued to these edges. The edges are also processed drawers(not facades).

It is better to use 2 mm PVC on the front ends of the facade and drawers, and 1 mm PVC on the visible sections of the shelves. The color is chosen either to match the main surface or “in contrast”.

How to glue edging yourself with glue

The adhesive composition is applied to the melamine edge; it can be applied to PVC. If you choose PVC, it’s easier to start with thin ones - they are easier to process, any melamine is easy to glue.

We take an iron and a fluoroplastic nozzle on it. If there is no nozzle, thick cotton fabric will do - so as not to overheat the tape, but to melt the glue. A hair dryer is also suitable for this purpose. We set the iron to about “two”, while it is heating up we cut off a piece of tape. The length is a couple of centimeters longer than the workpiece.

We apply the edge to the part, level it, smooth it out. There should be small pieces hanging off both sides. We take an iron and, using a nozzle or a rag, iron the edge, heating it until the glue melts. It is necessary to heat evenly over the entire surface. After the entire edge is glued, let it cool. Then we start processing the edges.

The edge can be cut with a knife, both with the sharp and blunt sides. Some people use a regular metal ruler, while others find it more convenient to use a stainless steel spatula.

So, take the tool you have chosen and cut off the hanging edges of the edge. They are cut close to the material. Then cut off the excess along the part. Melamine and thin plastic are easily cut with a knife. If the PVC edge is thicker - 0.5-0.6 mm or more, difficulties may arise. Such edges are possible if there is one. This guarantees good result V short time. The processing will take longer if you use sandpaper, but the result may not be worse.

One important point: when gluing thin edges, the cut of the part should be smooth, without protrusions and depressions. The material is plastic, which is why all defects are visible. Therefore, first go over the cuts with sandpaper, then thoroughly remove dust and degrease. Only after this can you glue.

Edging with PVC tape (no glue on the back side)

With this method of gluing PVC edges yourself, you need universal glue and a piece of felt or rag. We read the instructions for the glue and carry out all the steps as recommended. For example, for Moment glue, you need to apply the composition to the surface and distribute it, wait 15 minutes, and firmly press the surfaces to be glued.

Apply glue and wait - no problem. To press the edge tightly to the cut, you can use wooden block wrapped in felt. Instead of a block, you can take a construction float and also attach felt to its sole. As a last resort, you can roll up thick fabric in several layers and press the tape to the surface.

The selected tool is pressed against the laid edge, pressed with all its weight, pressing it against chipboard surfaces. The movements are stroking. This is how they iron the entire edge, achieving a very tight fit. The part is left in this form for some time - so that the glue “seizes.” Then you can start processing the edges.

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