How to make a floor screed in an apartment with your own hands. How to make a floor screed in an apartment? Step-by-step instructions (photo, video) Quick do-it-yourself floor screed

Leveling the floor is one of the most important stages of repair work. Before laying the finishing flooring The floor in the apartment is being screeded. During the construction of multi-storey residential buildings used as coverings reinforced concrete slab, which has a smooth surface on only one side. The smooth part is always laid towards the ceiling, therefore the side with defects serves as the floor. In this article we will look at how to make a floor screed in an apartment, types and rules for preparing mixtures.

Screed functions

The screed eliminates differences in floor height and defects and allows for high-quality installation of the finishing floor covering. If you lay linoleum on an uneven floor, it will crack over time where there are changes in height.

Functions of the screed in the apartment:

• strengthens the concrete base;
• perceives and distributes loads arising during operation;
• increases heat and sound insulation;
• due to the perfectly flat surface, it protects the floor covering from damage;
• allows you to arrange a technological slope for the floors of the kitchen and bathroom to drain water in case of flooding due to failure of communications.

Using a screed you can raise the floor level. During the work, it is necessary to take into account the permissible loads on the slab. It is impossible to pour concrete more than 70 mm in thickness, since the ceiling may not withstand the load.

Types of mixtures

Questions often arise about how to make a floor screed in a new building, which is better. We choose the technology for laying the subfloor depending on the design features slabs

Stages of dry screeding

1. Dry and semi-dry screeds are used for height differences of 30-50 mm. Compared to other types, lighter materials are used, thereby reducing the load on the slab.
2. Installation of concrete screed is used for damaged floors with large differences in height, increasing heat conservation and sound insulation.
3. Self-leveling mixtures are used for height differences of up to 30 mm. They include two stages of work: leveling with the starting mixture and finishing coating.

We select the type of screed depending on the condition of the concrete slab, functional features and flooring.

Preparatory work

The floor in a new building often has to be leveled when moving into an apartment.

Preparation stages:

1. We remove the old floor covering, inspect the slab for cracks, depressions, and protruding reinforcement.
2. We widen the cracks with a grinder, clean their edges, and fill them with concrete mortar; For better adhesion of materials, the surface must be moistened.
3. After the cement has hardened, remove dust from the slab with a vacuum cleaner.
4. We lay damper tape at the junctions between the floor and the walls. She will serve expansion seam when concrete expands during drying and will protect the lower apartment from water leakage.

Floor marking

Marking is done from the lowest part of the floor

The thickness of the screed and the choice of material for its installation depend on differences in floor height.

We find the lowest and highest point of the floor. We make markings using a laser or water level.

If the highest point is a threshold, you can pour a concrete base. If the corners of the room are above the threshold, there are two algorithms of action:

• we dismantle the old screed to the slab, pour concrete, adjusting it to the floor level in the adjacent room;
• pour concrete onto the old base, but keep in mind that the floor height in this room will be higher than in the adjacent one. This is justified if you plan to install new floors throughout the entire apartment.

To correctly mark the floor boundary, you need to place the guides parallel to each other at a distance of 150-200 mm from the wall. The distance between the guides should be less than the width of the tool to distribute the mixture.

We use T-shaped profiles as guides for alignment vertical surfaces. To level them, we use plastic and metal strips or install beacons on gypsum (cement) mortar.

Cardboard, chipboard and wood cannot be used as supports for lighthouses, as they lose their shape when exposed to moisture.

Calculation of the number of components for concrete

Screed volume is measured in liters

To determine the amount of sand, cement and water, we calculate the volume of the screed in liters. For this average height multiply by the length and width of the room, we get the volume.

Let's say, taking a room with a width of 4 m and a height of 3.5 m, we fill the screed with a thickness of 25 mm at the lowest point and 40 mm at the highest point.

We calculate the average thickness of the concrete coating (25+40) / 2 = 32.5 mm.

We calculate the area of ​​the room: S = length 4 m * width 3.5 m = 14 m.

Volume = 32.5 * 14 = 497 l.

You will need as much sand as the volume of the screed. But sand weighs 1.5 times more than water, so 497 * 1.5 = 745.5 kg.

And you will need 1 part cement to 3 parts sand. 745.5 / 3 = 248.5 kg.

The volume of water used depends on the moisture content of the sand. Add water until the consistency of thick sour cream is obtained.

High quality concrete solution

Mix ingredients in a specific order

After marking the floor, we begin preparing the concrete. The preparation scheme is standard, for one part of high-quality cement (M 200) there are three parts of sand.

Mix the ingredients correctly:

1. First you need to mix the dry ingredients well: cement and sand. Since a large volume of solution is mixed, you need to prepare a drill with a special attachment or a construction mixer in advance, since it will not be possible to mix the components properly by hand.
2. To protect the surface from cracking during drying and further use, it is recommended to add plasticizers to the solution. The technology and proportions are indicated on the packaging for the composition.
3. We check the quality of the solution by squeezing a handful of solution into a fist. It should not crumble or crack when compressed.

Concrete grade	Application	Cement consumption in kg per 1 cubic meter of concrete
M100	Minimum strength. Used for concreting road curbs and fences	165
M200	It is used when installing floor screeds in new buildings, when repair work. Suitable for foundations	240
M300	Used for installation of foundations, floors, etc.	320
M400	For the construction of structures exposed to significant loads: bridges bearing supports on overpasses	417

To obtain a homogeneous mixture, pour the dry ingredients into water. If you do it in the reverse order, the sand and cement will remain at the bottom and it will be difficult to mix them.

Concrete screed device

Let's look at how to properly screed a floor in an apartment. We start installation from the far corner of the room. We pour the floor in one go, and if the screed is thick, we reinforce it with a thin metal mesh. For more information about the process, watch this video:

Stages of work:

1. Pour the solution onto the floor between the guides and level it with a trowel.
2. Using the rule, we level the mixture, moving it towards ourselves. We compact the solution so that the air comes out and there are no voids left.
3. After a day, we take out the guides and fill the places where they were with solution.

You can walk on the floor after 4 days. The concrete dries completely and gains strength within 30 days.

The deviation in the horizontal plane should not exceed 0.2%.

After installing the screed in the apartment, we eliminate drafts by sealing all the cracks, and regularly moisten the concrete so that the coating does not crack. We do the final leveling after the screed has completely dried. You can use mixtures for self-leveling floors.

Dry screed

This type of coating lightens the load on the slab and increases the thermal insulation of the floor. We lay the dry screed using expanded clay or other bulk material small fraction. For more information about dry screed, watch this video:

The marking of the room and the installation of beacons is carried out according to the principle described above.

We select leveling elements for installing a dry screed in a new building depending on the level of humidity in the room:

• expanded polystyrene boards provide heat retention and sound insulation;
• OSB chipboards;
• moisture-resistant gypsum, gypsum fiber sheets, plywood.

As backfill for floors we use expanded clay, quartz sand, and fine-grained slag.

Do-it-yourself dry floor screed involves performing the following sequence of work:

1. We make markings, find the lower and upper points of the screed.
2. We install the guides: the first profile is against the wall, the rest are parallel to each other in increments of 1.5 m. We use pieces of timber, plastic, and polystyrene foam as supports for setting the height.
3. Pour expanded clay between the guides to the marked level and compact it well.
4. We cut off the folds on the outer sheets so that they do not go deeper into the backfill. We join the remaining sheets along the folded edge, which we coat with glue and secure with screws. We begin laying the leveling sheets from the entrance. It is not recommended to walk on the sheets until the work is completed.

We remove the beacons as the slabs are laid. If you leave them, the floor will shrink during use, and the guides will remain in place.

Screed with self-leveling mixture

It is important to install a coating on the first floors that provides increased thermal insulation of the floor.

If there is a small difference in height, it is easy to make a floor screed in an apartment with your own hands using a self-leveling mixture.

Sequence of work:

1. We prepare the surface of the slab, fill cracks, chips, and depressions with the solution.
2. We prime the floor in several layers for better adhesion of materials.
3. Dilute the mixture according to the instructions on the package. We start installation from the far corner.
4. We stretch the solution with a needle roller.

The floor dries within 4-5 days, depending on the temperature and humidity in the room.

Floating screed

It differs in that the top concrete covering does not adhere to the slab, as it is laid through the film onto the layer thermal insulation material.

• plaster mortar;
• finishing flooring;
• concrete or calcium sulfate screed;
• a polyethylene film is laid as a barrier to the penetration of concrete mortar to the heat-insulating material;
• mineral wool or polystyrene foam;
• damper tape thickness more than 10 mm;
• plate.

Damper tape

We attach the damper tape before laying the heat-insulating material; its height must be no less than the total thickness of the floor structure: from the slab to the finishing floor covering. Trimming is carried out after laying the floor covering.

Thermal insulation material is laid strictly in a horizontal plane; uneven laying leads to the formation of cracks in the cement mortar.

Floor screed is the beginning of any renovation. In this article we will describe in detail how to make a cement-sand screed in an apartment or house with your own hands. At the end of the article you will also find visual videos.

Leveling the floor with a screed

Even if indoors, the floors are absolutely flat and smooth. concrete slab, it is necessary to make a screed. In general, all the problems that floor screed is designed to solve can be divided into two categories: visible and tangible.

The scope of visible tasks includes leveling the floor relative to the horizon and creating a perfectly smooth surface. The fact is that during construction it is allowed to lay floor slabs with a slope of up to 20%. But this is necessary for builders, but residents should better get rid of such permissions. After all, the installation of any hard floor covering must be carried out absolutely flat surface.

But tangible tasks include reduction of heat loss. Even a thick-skinned person will feel that after organizing the floor screed, the apartment has become warmer. And here the role is played not even by increasing the thickness, but by adding a new layer. No matter how well it fits, these are heterogeneous layers. And heat transfer in heterogeneous layers requires additional energy and takes longer.

To all this it should be added that you can easily fill the floor screed with your own hands without the involvement of craftsmen. Of course, you will need a certain set of tools and materials. But more on that below.

Installation of concrete floor screed

Before work, it is necessary to prepare tools and materials. In particular:

• Laser level;
• Rule (at least 1.5 m);
• Construction square;
• Concrete mixer;
• Flat spatula (20-30 cm);
• Galvanized beacon profile (10 mm);
• Deep penetration primer;
• Construction gypsum 5 kg.
• Cement;
• Sand;
• Polypropylene fiber;
• Liquid glass.

This requires some clarification. A concrete mixer is a rather expensive thing, and there is no point in buying it. But in any city, such equipment can be rented. Average price for a concrete mixer with a tank volume of 150-200 l, about 500 rub/day. And it will really make the work easier, and at the same time the quality of the solution will be much higher.

The number of beacon profiles is calculated based on the size of the working room. For example, in a 4x5 m room, it is better to install beacons along the long side. The first and last stripes should be 20 cm from the walls. And between them two more lighthouses are placed, at an equidistant distance. As a result, the following scheme is obtained: 0.2→1.2→1.2→1.2. This means only 4 profiles of 5 m each. The distance between the beacons is 1.2 m, making the work easier. An experienced specialist can use the two-meter rule to work with three beacons for the entire room, but for the first time we will not chase records. Our goal is quality.

IMPORTANT: be sure to use a galvanized profile. It can be left in the floor screed without removing it.

Construction plaster is used to install beacons.

Try to buy cement M500.

Only river and washed sand is needed. The fact is that river grains of sand have a slightly rounded shape, and they have fewer sharp edges. They are much better coated with cement and hold more securely. And washed sand does not contain any impurities of clay, dust, or silt. These ingredients, destroying the integrity of the cement-sand bond, sharply reduce the quality of the solution.

We will separately discuss the volumes. The mass of a floor screed with an area of ​​1 m2 and a thickness of 1 cm is approximately 16 kg. Including:

• Cement – ​​3.5 kg;
• Sand – 10.5 kg;
• Water – 2 l.

Based on these indicators, you can calculate the material needs for any room. But first, you need to decide on the thickness.

The minimum thickness of the screed should be 3 cm. But this is for the highest corner in the room, and for the lowest, you will need to add the amount of height difference. IMPORTANT: in any case, the volume of material must be calculated for the maximum thickness of the screed in the room. This rule will not allow you to make mistakes in your calculations. Even if there is a small surplus left, it is better than a shortage of material at the most crucial moment.

Liquid glass added to the solution significantly increases the waterproofing properties of the screed and improves its strength characteristics.

Polypropylene fiber is added at the rate of 0.8 kg/cube of solution for dispersed reinforcement. Such a floor screed in its own way operational characteristics it will be much better. Increases resistance to impact loads and fracture resistance. And most importantly, a perfectly smooth, silky surface is formed.

Floor preparation and installation of beacons

Absolutely everything is removed from the room. The floor covering is removed. We also recommend removing tiles. The base is thoroughly swept and then primed. A brush is preferable, because it allows you to work well on corners and small cavities. Drying time for the soil is 1-1.5 hours.

Before installing beacons, you need to find the highest angle in the room. Work will begin from this point.

Set the laser level to a height of 20 cm in the middle of the room, and turning it, determine the highest point in the room (almost always it is located in the corner). To do this, use a square to measure the distance from the floor to the laser beam in each corner. Where the readings are the smallest is the highest point. Subtract 3 cm from this value, and the resulting difference must be maintained when installing beacons. For example, there are four corners in a room with the following readings: A – 17.5 cm; B – 17 cm; C – 16 cm; D – 15.5 cm. The highest angle is D. This means 15.5-3 = 12.5 cm. Thus, from the top edge of the lighthouse to the level of the laser beam there should be 12.5 cm. Please note that at the same time, the minimum thickness of the floor screed will be 3 cm, and the maximum 17.5-12.5 = 5 cm. But! As a result of the work, the floors will be perfectly level.

Having determined the level, you can place beacons. Using a marker, mark the profile installation line. Dilute 1 kg of gypsum to the thickness of village sour cream, and lay it out in small piles along one marking line, every 20-25 cm. Immediately place the beacon profile on these tubercles and carefully align it along its entire length so that the readings are the same from the top edge to the beam. All beacons are placed in the same way.

Gypsum sets very quickly, but nevertheless, it needs an hour of exposure.

After half an hour, treat the plaster stops with a deep penetration primer.

Cement-sand mixture - preparing the solution

To obtain a mortar of M200 grade, it is necessary to mix M500 cement with sand in a ratio of 1:3. It is more convenient and practical to do this in a rented concrete mixer. The sequence is as follows. Pre-prepared components are poured into the concrete mixer that is turned on in small portions (a bucket at a time). Mixing occurs dry. Having filled the entire volume, add fiber. The calculation is as follows, 1 m 3 – 0.8 kg. The volume of the mixer is, say, 200 liters, which means that 5 times less fiber will be required.

And only after that, water is added to the mixture. For every 10 liters of water, add 0.5 liters of liquid glass. Don't make the solution too thin. For 50 kg of cement, about 30-35 liters of water are required.

Kneading duration is 15-17 minutes. After this, the solution is poured into buckets onto the prepared surface, between two beacons. As soon as the concrete mixer is emptied, it is necessary to mix the next portion. Therefore, it will be much more convenient to work with a partner.

Aligning the screed and working with the rule

The solution loses its plasticity within 1.5-2 hours. The poured mixture is first leveled with a spatula, and then the rule is used. It is applied to the two nearest beacons, and in wave-like movements along the profiles, with a small amplitude to the left and right ( 5-10 cm) level the floor screed with your own hands.

The work is done without fanaticism, so as not to tear off the profile. The transition between two fills should be smooth. In this case, each subsequent portion of the solution is poured in such a way that it is adjacent to the previous pour on all sides.

Working together and using a concrete mixer with a volume of 150 liters, a room of 20 m2 is filled with a 4 cm thick screed for 2.5-3 hours.

One day after the work, the surface can be ironed. To do this, the floors are slightly moistened and dusted with cement. Then, using grout, it is thoroughly rubbed into the surface.

The need for this procedure is due to the flow of cement laitance into the lower layers of the solution. Thus, the ratio between the components on the surface is disrupted. And after ironing, you can even ride a tank on the floor - the strength will be beyond praise.

Floor screed - drying time

The drying process of the screed is not just the physical evaporation of water, but a long chemical reaction cement hydration. At the same time, there are some nuances that need to be taken into account to obtain a high-quality floor.

On the surface, water evaporates quite quickly, and the hydration process is disrupted. If you miss this moment, the top layer will be fragile and friable. And at all thicknesses, separation will begin. To prevent such excesses, throughout the entire period of strengthening, the floor screed needs to be moistened a couple of times a day.

You can make the task easier if you cover the surface with burlap ( canvas), moisten it, and then cover it all with a covering film. In such a “greenhouse”, the humidity regime will be maintained at an acceptable level for 3-4 days.

The rate of cement maturation is calculated based on the thickness of the screed: 1 cm - 1 week. But too thick fills, more than 4 cm, require an additional 3 days per 1 cm. For example, a layer of 6 cm will mature (4 cm x 7 days) + 2 cm x (7 days + 3 days) = 48 days. The period is quite decent. But technology requires this.

Readiness can be judged by residual moisture. It should be within 4-7%. But the devices are not available to everyone. Therefore, we will offer a “folk” method.

A piece of polyethylene, meter by meter, tape to the floor around the perimeter. It is important not to leave any gaps. After a day, check the screed under the film. If moisture has appeared there, or the shade has changed, then the time to lay the flooring has not yet come. We have to wait.

What to do with the beacon profile

In general, removing the beacon from the screed leads to very negative consequences. The fact is that the poured solution immediately after setting forms a monolithic structure. Removing a beacon leads to a violation of integrity this conglomerate. The expected strength and reliability will no longer exist. To describe this visually, try picking out the raisins from the bun and putting the dough back in. Will it turn out to be something decent? No! We hope the analogy is clear.

Concrete flooring is currently perhaps the most widespread in both residential and industrial construction. It is suitable for almost any finishing coating or can, after appropriate processing, be used independently. Its main advantages, subject to the filling technology, are high strength, resistance to destruction, and durability of use. It is not surprising that when conducting private construction or when renovating an apartment, in the vast majority of cases, homeowners opt for this particular flooring technology.

Is it worth inviting construction specialists, or concrete screed Is flooring with your own hands a completely affordable process for the average home owner? This publication is devoted to answering these questions.

Types of concrete floor screeds

Concrete floor screeds may have different design, performed using slightly different technologies and intended for different purposes.

• Thus, they can serve exclusively for leveling the floor, which is carried out before installing the finishing coating. Powerful screeds serve as a reliable foundation in rooms where increased mechanical loads are expected. They can also perform the functions of ensuring the required thermal balance, acting, for example, as powerful heat accumulators in “warm floor” systems. Screeds are often used to cover communication systems. They can they are used and in order to create a certain slope in those rooms where it is necessary.
• Concrete screeds differ according to the number of layers:

— They can be single-layer, that is, poured simultaneously to the entire calculated height. This is usually used in industrial, commercial or utility applications. non-residential premises, where there are no increased requirements for the evenness of the floor.

— Multilayer screeds are poured in several stages. Usually the first layer serves as a rough base, and the top creates a smooth surface for further work on floor coverings. This approach is also used in cases where the total thickness of the required screed reaches too large sizes, and it is more expedient to do it in layers.

• Screeds also differ in the degree of adhesion to the base:

— Bound ties have direct contact with the base. Of course, with such a filling technology, maximum homogeneity of the materials and their high adhesion to each other must be ensured. Such coatings are characterized by good strength qualities in terms of withstanding high mechanical loads. However, the condition of the surface layer will largely depend on the moisture level of the base. Such screeds are mainly performed on dry floor slabs on the floors of buildings.

— In the case where the base does not have sufficient waterproofing, a sleep screed is used separation layer. A layer of waterproofing material (roofing felt, polymer film, coating composition) becomes a barrier to moisture penetration from below, and the screed itself has no contact with the base. With this technology, the layer of poured mortar cannot be less than 30 mm and, as a rule, requires reinforcement.

This technology is often used when constructing screeds on the ground, for example, in garages, sheds, basements, and on the first floors of houses without basements. They also use it in rooms with high humidity levels.

— Where enhanced thermal insulation of the floor is required or there is a need for sound insulation, floating screeds are used. In this case, the concrete solution is poured over a layer of insulation of one type or another. The screed turns into a completely independent structure - a slab, not connected either to the base or to the walls of the room. The minimum thickness of the fill in this case is at least 50 mm, and reinforcement of the screed becomes a prerequisite.

The humidity of such a screed is absolutely independent of the condition of the base, and a good insulating effect is achieved. Disadvantages - excessively large thickness, and therefore - load on the floor. Typically, such screeds are used only on the first floors of residential or ancillary buildings, especially if the filling is carried out on the ground.

• Screeds can be made with a homogeneous solution or include certain fillers:

— The addition of a cement-sand solution of polystyrene foam chips significantly increases the thermal insulation qualities of the coating.

Typically, such screeds require a second, strengthening and leveling layer.

— Where screeds of great thickness or with increased thermal insulation qualities are required, expanded clay is added to the concrete solution.

Expanded clay concrete has sufficient strength, but for laying some coatings, you will also need to fill in the front layer from ordinary mortar. But ceramic tiles It will be quite possible to lay directly on such a base.

Screeds with micro-reinforcement show good performance fiberglass. This technology allows you to dramatically increase the strength of the coating to mechanical loads, stretching, and bending.

Such screeds usually do not crack, are less susceptible to shrinkage during hardening, and have less dust formation. They are great for underfloor heating systems.

• flooring can be done using classic, “wet” technology, or semi-dry. Semi-dry screed is a relatively new thing, and not all more ready to try it out in practice. In addition, it requires special professionalism in preparing the mortar mixture, laying out, compacting and leveling the mortar. Most home builders prefer to use proven “wet” technology, which will be discussed later in the article. However, if you are limited in time, consider inviting a semi-dry screed installation specialist. When choosing a contractor, pay attention to the technology used - the presence of a mechanized supply of the composition will ensure cleanliness in the apartment. For example, laying a semi-dry screed along latest technology is carried out by the company "EUROSTROY 21 CENTURY" (company website www.prestigehouse.ru).

Solutions for pouring concrete screed

It is quite natural that if you need to pour a concrete screed, you will first need to decide on the type of solution. There are some options in this matter.

According to the existing canons of SNiP, the minimum strength of a conventional concrete screed, regardless of the type of further cladding, must be at least M-150 (the coating can withstand a force of 150 kg/cm²). If used self-leveling jellied composition, then here the requirements are even higher - from M-200. The solution should be selected in accordance with these requirements.

1. The “classic” concrete mortar used for pouring a regular floor screed is considered to be a cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1:3. This “recipe” is time-tested and fully justifies itself. However, there are several nuances, without taking into account which you can easily ruin the future screed:

• To prepare concrete, you cannot use ordinary “washed” river sand, which has not undergone special processing. The frozen surface will not be durable and will begin to crumble, crumble and crack over time. The fact is that grains of sand have smoothed outlines due to prolonged exposure to water, not providing adequate clutch. In this regard, quarry sand is much better than its faceted grains of sand irregular shape. True, when choosing, you need to look carefully so that it does not contain a large number of clay inclusions - this will also reduce the strength of the screed.

The presence of a small amount of fine gravel component will not affect the strength properties of the screed. However, if a smooth surface is required, it will be necessary to sift the sand through a sieve.

• A very important condition for the strength and durability of the screed being poured is the optimally selected amount of water. It is no secret that some novice home builders, in an effort to make the work of pouring and leveling concrete easier, use excessive amounts of water, getting semi-liquid, easy spreading solution. By doing this, they are laying a “time bomb” - at the end, the screed will not have the required qualities.

Firstly, an excessively liquid solution will definitely cause severe shrinkage when hardening. In this case, one cannot expect a flat surface in accordance with the set level. And secondly, a violation of the cement-water balance will certainly reduce the strength qualities of hardened concrete. The surface is loose, unbound, with advanced education dust.

There are, of course, special amounts of water in concrete mortar, but they are usually adhered to by the technologists of production enterprises. reinforced concrete structures and large mortar units. In home construction, people often rely on their own experience, intuition and common sense. In addition, it is very difficult to accurately calculate the amount of water due to the fact that it largely depends on the moisture content of the filler. The sand can be wet and heavy - and this is also water, which will participate in the process of preparing the solution.

Ideally, the concrete solution should be dense, but sufficiently plastic, so that when it is poured and leveled, there are no air voids left in the thickness of the floor. You can roughly focus on the following ratio - a liter of water per five kilograms of cement-sand dry mixture.

It is important to choose the right golden mean"so that the solution is both dense and plastic

It is very difficult to thoroughly mix the screed mortar manually using a shovel. It is better to use a concrete mixer or construction mixer of sufficiently high power for this. First, mix the dry ingredients in the required ratio (maybe with a little moisture), and then add water very carefully, portionwise.

An important condition for the quality of the future concrete screed is the purity of water. It is prohibited to use process water containing fats, oils, petroleum product residues, etc. Also, dirty, oily containers should not be used to carry water to the concrete mixing site.

2. The modern range of building materials on sale can significantly simplify the process of pouring screed. For these purposes, ready-made dry construction mixtures can be used.

Compared to using the usual cement-sand mixture, this technology has a number of advantages:

• In terms of strength and other performance indicators, screeds made from ready-mixes are in no way inferior to ordinary concrete, and can even surpass it in a number of parameters.
• To prepare the solution, you do not need powerful equipment or heavy manual labor - a mixer or even a powerful electric drill (perforator) with an appropriate attachment is enough.
• In principle, there are no problems with the dosage of components - everything is already provided by the manufacturer, and the master can only strictly follow the instructions for preparing the solution.
• Many solutions prepared from such mixtures are much lighter, which reduces the load on the floor, reduces transportation costs and makes it easier to lift materials to floors.

• It is possible to select the desired composition for specific operating conditions. Thus, there are solutions for rough or leveling screeds, for underfloor heating systems and for rooms with high humidity. Special plasticizers or microfibers added to their composition not only increase the strength characteristics of the coating, but also reduce the time it takes for the screed to completely harden, reducing the overall duration of construction work.
• What is very important for beginners is that working with such compositions is simple and does not require particularly high skills. The main thing is to follow the recommendations for pouring technology, which are necessarily attached to any batch of material.

All this will be true only if a high-quality dry mixture is purchased. Alas, there are a lot of fakes or low-grade mixtures on the building materials market in this segment. It is best to choose formulations from reputable manufacturers, be sure to check the certificate so as not to run into counterfeit products. It is also important to check the shelf life of the material - it is limited, and an expired mixture can significantly lose its quality.

The only drawback of this approach to pouring screed is that the price may be slightly higher than with self-production solution. Well, you have to pay for convenience and quality.

Prices for various types of screeds and self-leveling floors

Screeds and self-leveling floors

Preparing the surface for pouring concrete screed

The surface for pouring the screed is prepared in different ways, based on the conditions:

• If the floor will be laid on the ground, for example, in a private house without a basement or basement, then the work is carried out in next sequence:

— The soil is selected to a depth of 500 mm.

A sand cushion 100 mm thick is poured and carefully compacted. A gravel layer is poured on top of it in the same way.

— Rough pouring of concrete with the addition of expanded clay is done to a height of 150 — 200 mm – for insulating the floor surface.

— After the base has hardened, it must waterproofed– roofing felt or dense plastic film to prevent the entry of ground moisture from below. Waterproofing material must definitely go out on the walls on height, slightly greater than the height of the planned screed. If necessary, another layer of insulation can be poured on top, and then a reinforced finishing screed can be poured.

• In apartments, first of all, it is necessary to remove the old screed. This is done for several reasons:

— Firstly, the old screed does not guarantee integrity, since it can peel off, crack, and these deformations will be transferred to the newly poured layer.

— Secondly, do not forget about the maximum permissible loads on floor slabs. So, in serial high-rise buildings of old construction permissible load about 400 kg per square meter - static and 150 kg - dynamic. And the news is one square meter concrete screed, 50 mm thick, approaches 100 kg. Therefore, all work related to thickening the screed will have to be coordinated with design organizations. And it is far from a fact that such permission will be obtained.

— And thirdly, the height of the ceilings in apartments is usually not so significant that you can afford to significantly raise the floor level.

The old screed is dismantled with a hammer drill, but very carefully to prevent destruction or damage to the floor slab. The remains of the chipped concrete are removed, and then the surface is thoroughly cleaned and dust-free.

• If a bonded screed is planned, then it is necessary to thoroughly clean the existing recesses, cut cracks or crevices to a width of at least 5 mm so that the concrete solution can freely penetrate into them when pouring.
• If the screed is floating or on a separating layer, then all defects must be repaired immediately. You should not leave voids under the waterproofing layer - condensation can accumulate there, and these areas of high humidity are likely to become a “problem area”.

Defects are sealed using a repair compound, epoxy putty or ordinary concrete mortar. In case of large defects, polyurethane foam can sometimes be used.

The corners between the walls and the floor are especially carefully checked and repaired - water from the concrete solution when pouring the screed can penetrate deep into the ceiling or even leak to the neighbors below.

• Then, in any case, the surface of the ceiling should be treated with a penetrating primer. This measure will additionally remove dust from the surface of the slab and improve its adhesion to the concrete being poured. In addition, the ceiling will not actively absorb moisture from the solution. This is extremely important. A lack of water in the layer of wet concrete adjacent to the base will lead to incomplete maturation of the cement stone, and the screed will peel off or collapse under even minor loads.

The soil is poured over the surface in strips and distributed evenly with a roller. IN hard to reach places For example, in the corners, it is better to use a brush.

• An elastic damper tape is glued along the perimeter of the walls. It will become a compensator for the expansion of the concrete screed, which will prevent its deformation or cracking. In addition, under no circumstances should the screed come into contact with vertical structures, be it walls, partitions or columns.

• If the screed is on a separating layer, then first the entire surface of the ceiling is covered with a dense polyethylene film, at least 0.2 mm thick. The strips are overlapped by at least 100 mm. The joints must be taped with waterproof construction tape. You need to try to very carefully lay the film in the corners so that strong wrinkles and folds do not form - air “pockets” may remain there. The edges of the film on the walls should be 5 ÷ 10 mm higher than the planned screed - it will be easy to trim them later.

Schematically - waterproofing film and damper tape for screed on the separating layer

After the polyethylene is laid, the damper tape is glued - just as mentioned above.

Beacon system and reinforcement

To achieve horizontal screed and its required height, it is necessary to create a system of beacons along which the concrete mortar will be leveled.

Definition of zero level

It is very successful if the farm has it or if it is possible to take it from friends. In this case, the work will be significantly simplified - it will be much easier to cut horizontal stripes on the walls and control the level of alignment of the guides.

If this is not possible, then you can set up beacons just as well using water and conventional building level.

The water level consists of two cylindrical transparent vessels with the same scale applied, connected by a long elastic thin hose. According to the physical law of communicating vessels, the liquid level in them is always at the same height from the horizon. Thus, having made one mark at a certain level, you can high precision transfer it to other surfaces within the length of the flexible hose.

Start marking with a definition zero level future screed. To do this, first of all, you need to draw a basic horizontal line. This is done as follows:

• The estimated highest corner of the room is visually determined. A mark is made on the wall in this corner at an arbitrary height. It is better, of course, to make it so that it is as convenient as possible to work, for example, one and a half meters from the floor.

• Using a water level, this mark is transferred to all walls of the room. The distance between the risks should allow you to connect them with a line using an existing ruler (you can use a long building level or a pure rule).
• The drawn line should run along the entire perimeter of the room and close at one point - this will indicate the correctness of the measurements.
• Measurements are taken from the applied baseline to the floor surface. Measurement points are usually every 0, 5 m. It is imperative to ensure that the measurement is carried out strictly vertically. The obtained values ​​​​need to be written down (on a piece of paper or even on the wall with a pencil).

The measuring point that gives the minimum height of this distance will correspond to the high area grounds.

• The thickness of the future screed is subtracted from the obtained value at the highest point (minimum 30 mm). For example, the minimum height is 1420 mm. We subtract the thickness of the screed (30 mm) and get 1390 mm. This is the distance from the drawn reference line to the zero level.
• Now it will not be difficult to draw the entire zero level line around the perimeter of the room - to do this, you need to measure the resulting value from the base down, mark the points and connect them with a straight line. To simplify your work, you can make a template and quickly move the marks from the base line. After connecting them, you get the main line of the zero level.
• In construction practice, it is rare, but it still happens, when in the center of the room the floor level is slightly higher than at the walls. This must be checked by pulling the cord at the zero level between opposite walls and measuring the height from it to the floor. A similar check should be carried out in several places. If it is determined that there is a hill in the center, it will be necessary to shift the zero level upward to ensure the minimum permissible thickness of the screed over the entire area of ​​the room.

Marking for beacon system

It is advisable to mark the beacons and guides immediately after hitting the zero level, guided by the following principles:

• The orientation of the guides should correspond to the intended direction of the most convenient pouring of the screed. This is usually done along the room, from the far wall to the exit.
• It happens that due to the complexity of the room configuration, it will be necessary to change the direction of pouring in a certain area. This should also be immediately taken into account when marking beacon lines.
• The distance between the wall and the parallel guide closest to it is usually maintained no more than 250 - 300 mm. If you leave it large, a poorly leveled area or even a failure may form along the wall, which will require additional intervention later.

• The distances between adjacent guides are not particularly regulated. The main thing is that the leveling rule installed on them protrudes on both sides by about 200 mm. The guides should not be spaced too far apart - quite large gaps may appear in the center between them after the hardening concrete shrinks.
• I distribute the guide lines across the width of the room, usually at the same distance from one another.

How to set beacons and zero level guides

Previously, various available materials were used as guides for the beacon system, for example, wooden blocks or unnecessary pipes. Today, metal profiles are mainly used for these purposes.

• Thus, galvanized U-shaped profiles from plasterboard systems perform very well. They are resistant to deflections and create a reliable “rail” for working as a rule.
• Plaster profiles are very popular, although they are not without some disadvantages. They have a stiffener, however, on long sections when working as a rule, they can still sag. Therefore, when using them, the number of support points must be increased.
• In some cases, you can do without using profiles altogether.

There are many ways to install a beacon, and it is impossible to consider everything. Let's look at just a few of them.

• One of the most accurate and simplest is using self-tapping screws.

— At the far end of the room, at a distance of 250 - 300 mm from the corner between opposite walls, a strong cord (for example, fishing line or thick nylon thread) is pulled strictly at the zero level. It is important to tighten it as much as possible so that there is no sagging in the center.

- At the intersection of the line of the extended cord with the line closest to the wall, directing in the floor is drilled hole where it is clogged plastic dowel and the self-tapping screw is screwed in. Using a screwdriver, it is screwed in so that the upper edge of its cap exactly coincides with the zero level.

— A similar operation is repeated on the opposite side of the room, closest to the exit.

— Two self-tapping screws defining the guide line are connected to each other with a tightly stretched cord, so that it runs along the top of their heads.

— On this segment, mark and drill holes for dowels, distributing them evenly so that an interval of 350 ÷ 400 mm is maintained between them.

— Self-tapping screws are screwed into dowels until their heads coincide with the tensioned cord. A check must be carried out using a building level - if necessary, the required adjustments can be made.

— In the same way, a line of screws is made on the opposite guide, and then on the intermediate ones. In this case, the check must be carried out in all directions - longitudinal, transverse and diagonal.

— Once the same zero level has been reached along all lines, the stretched cords are removed. Prepare a thick concrete solution. It is laid out in small slides along the line of screwed-in screws. Then a U-shaped profile is put on top and pressed into the solution. The transverse flange of the profile should rest against the head of the screw. It is important that the profile “sits” evenly on both sides, without distortions.

Installation and fixation of metal profiles - guides

— After the solution has set and securely fixed the profiles in the installed position, you can proceed to pouring the screed.

With plaster profiles it turns out to be somewhat more complicated - it is more difficult to fix them using the heads of the screws. For these purposes, special fasteners can be used - “eared”, which are put on self-tapping screws, and their petals are crimped side shelves profile.

Video: placing beacons using screws and fasteners -“ Ushastiki»

Another subtlety is that plaster profiles also have their own height, and this must also be taken into account when setting the screws to the zero level.

In addition, much more fixing solution will be required - to the point that I even resort to laying out a solid shaft into which the profile is embedded with emphasis on the screw heads.

• Some craftsmen are accustomed to doing without metal profiles altogether.

— The exposed self-tapping beacons are tied with thin wire, thereby creating a kind of reinforcement frame. Then the solution is laid out along the entire line in a slightly excess amount, so that the resulting shaft is slightly above the zero level.

— When the solution begins to set, a guide plane is formed. Using the rule, the upper edge of this shaft is compared and smoothed down to the screw heads.

- After hardening, you will get excellent guides along which you can work as a rule, and then they will enter the structure of the poured screed.

• If the screed is carried out on the floor, then the self-tapping method becomes inapplicable - the tightness of the film cannot be broken, and in addition, there should be no rigid adhesion of the new screed to the base. In this case, you will have to tinker more, laying out piles of mortar and accurately inserting the guides at the zero level along the stretched cords.

To speed up the readiness of the beacon system, tile adhesive is often used instead of conventional mortar - its hardening time is much shorter. But gypsum compositions are unacceptable. Firstly, they practically do not shrink, unlike cement ones. Secondly, gypsum compositions have completely different indicators of water absorption, adhesion, strength, ductility, etc. We can say with 100% certainty that cracks will appear on the screed where the beacons are located.

Nuances of screed reinforcement

Of course, this measure is useful, especially with thick ties. Most often used for this purpose is a metal mesh made of galvanized steel wire with cells from 50 to 100 mm - it can be purchased at finished form in stores. Only when placing it, many people make a serious mistake.

If you look at numerous photographs on the Internet, you can see a mesh laid directly on the floor slab or on a waterproofing layer. There are many doubts about the usefulness of such reinforcement. Ideally, for the reinforcing belt to play its role, it should be placed in the thickness of the mortar being poured, approximately in the middle of the height of the screed.

To do this, you can purchase special polymer stands. However, it will not be difficult to make supports from wire or even to raise the mesh on linings from pieces of broken tiles or fragments of old concrete screed. Wooden pads should not be used under any circumstances.

Obviously, it is necessary to install the reinforcing grid before setting the guides. Most often, the installation of the beacon system and reinforcement is carried out in parallel, and the mesh can also be fixed on those piles of cement into which metal profiles are embedded.

Filling the screed

Oddly enough, the process of pouring the screed itself looks, in the series of all technological operations, probably the most uncomplicated. If everything preparatory work done correctly, this stage will not present any difficulties.

• For normal pouring and hardening of the screed, the optimal temperature is from 15 to 25 degrees. It is allowed to carry out work even with more low temperatures(but not lower than +5), but the maturation period of concrete will increase significantly. In too hot weather, it is also better to refrain from pouring - = the top layer can quickly dry out and crack. It does not like screed and drafts, although the access to fresh air cannot be completely blocked.
• It is best, of course, to work together - one is preparing the concrete solution, and the second is directly pouring and leveling the screed. The technology for mixing the solution has already been described above.
• Work is carried out from the far corner of the room, gradually moving towards the exit. You should try to complete the pouring within one working day - this way the screed will be as uniform and durable as possible. If for some reason this is not possible, then the floor surface is divided in advance into sections (they are called fill maps) with jumpers installed between them.
• spread in excess between the guides, so that its layer is 15 - 20 mm above the zero level. Initial distribution is carried out using a trowel or shovel. It is imperative to ensure that there is no unfilled places- this happens often under the guides, under the bars fittings or at corners. It is necessary to achieve maximum compaction of the concrete solution and release of air bubbles from it. To do this, you can carry out “bayoneting” - the solution is pierced with a shovel or trowel before leveling.
• Next, on on the rulers set the rule. Using forward and transverse zigzag movements, the solution is leveled to the level of the guides, so that a flat, smooth surface is obtained.

If the sand has not been sifted and large fragments (pebbles or shells) remain in it, then certain difficulties may arise - these inclusions can leave grooves and you will have to suffer a lot, removing them and smoothing out unevenness in order to bring the surface to an ideal state.

Concrete mortar is added as needed so that work continues uninterrupted. Excess mortar is carefully removed at the end of filling the room.

Video: a visual example of pouring screed along beacons

After the filling is completed, it is necessary provide measures, excluding accidental entry of people or pets into the premises during the first 5 - 7 days. In order for the maturation process to proceed effectively, the surface must be moistened with water daily (starting from the second day), keeping it moist. In extreme heat, it makes sense to cover it with film after initial setting to avoid drying out.

If a regular sand-cement mortar was used, then the readiness of the screed with the operational one can be said no earlier than after 3 weeks. When using dry building mixtures The deadlines may be different - they must be indicated in the attached instructions.

After the screed is ready, it is checked for evenness and surface quality. To do this, set a rule on the embedded guides and measure the resulting gap in the center. There is no escape from concrete shrinkage, and if the gap does not exceed 1 - 2 mm, then this will be within normal limits.

Often a thin layer of compound is poured over the screed to make the surface perfectly smooth. However, this is a topic for separate consideration.

Floor is one of the main elements of our home. We walk on it with our feet, pieces of furniture and household appliances. From this, obviously, follow the requirements that floors in a residential area must meet: floors must be smooth, warm, hygienic, comfortable, durable, and have sound and heat insulating properties.

It is the presence of a high-quality screed that ultimately ensures these properties of the floor. In addition, floor slabs, which most often form the base of our floors, can have differences of up to 10 cm, as well as the presence of reinforcement protruding from the slabs - all this makes the installation of screed simply necessary. Screeding requires certain skills and knowledge. In this article we will look at how you can make a floor screed with your own hands.

After removing the old floor covering, what was left behind is what was underneath it, and most often this base is unsuitable for laying a new covering.
The most labor-intensive case is not so rare - this is the need to install a new floor screed, but simply to level the base. The construction term “screed” means a continuous covering that connects (pulls together) all the elements of the underlying base of the floor and creates a smooth and solid foundation for laying new flooring. To put it even simpler, a screed is a layer of concrete or other monolithic material, providing a horizontal surface.

But you can also level the base for laying a new floor covering using sheet material. Previously, chipboard and hardboard were widely used, but now waterproof plywood is most often used (both chipboard and hardboard were not water-resistant.

First of all, let's look at a few specific aspects:

Requirements for floor screeds

• When laying the screed, you must remember that the floors in all rooms of your

dwellings must be on the same level. This means that the height of the screed should be

equal to the final floor height, minus the thickness of the finishing coating at a given

• If you do the drying yourself, the easiest option is dry

screed Also, this is the best option for rooms with wooden

floors - since they may simply not withstand the concrete screed. Dry

A screed is a sheet of DVL or GVL mounted on an expanded clay backing.

• A screed in a bathroom, among other things, also requires

waterproofing. In addition, before installing the screed, you must ensure that

serviceability and operability of plumbing communications.

Tools for preparing the base for flooring:

mixer, wide spatula, needle roller, crampons for walking on the floor, electric drill, screwdriver, electric jigsaw or another saw, broom, floor brush, vacuum cleaner.

Floor screed tools

• Preparing the floor surface for screed installation is quite simple:
  — first we remove the old coating, remove debris, dust, degrease fatty
• spots.
  - by using laser level, apply marks throughout the room, and then on
• Based on these marks, we set beacons.

• prime the cleaned surface in order to reduce the porosity and absorbency of the base;

Concrete (wet) floor screed

The mixture can be purchased at any hardware store, or
make it yourself. This will require cement, sand and water.
The proportions of cement and sand depend on what load is expected on the floor
V this place. In places where heavy furniture will be installed, 3
parts sand 1 part cement. In places with less load, the proportion of cement
can be reduced somewhat. If the height differences in the room exceed 5-7 cm,
Before installing the screed, it is necessary to install a metal mesh.

So, let's start installing the screed:

— we start by determining the maximum height difference and calculate
quantity and proportions of the mixture for the solution
- if necessary, lay a layer of waterproofing
— install beacons, fix them with plaster
- clean and prime the surface
- prepare and lay cement-sand mortar. You need to start with
the wall opposite the exit.

- it is important to remember that the heavy loads in one room must be laid continuously
pace, and the period is no more than 1 day
- level the surface as you lay it using a metal rule and a needle
roller
— after installation, let the screed dry. At the same time, we periodically spill it
water for 3 days - this will help avoid concrete cracking. Important
prevent falling sun rays and a draft into the room where the screed is drying
- when the screed has dried, cut off the bumps with a metal rule and rub it
trowel
After 28 days your screed will be ready for use. You can lay tiles
start earlier - usually 5 days after installing the screed.

Self-leveling screed Self-leveling screed

Self-leveling screed

This is a special mixture sold in construction stores. Used in

if it is necessary to obtain the most even surfaces.
- first carefully prepare the floor surface
- prime the surface. In some cases (excessive dust on the floor, etc.)

priming will need to be repeated
- prepare the solution, strictly following the instructions on the package
- laying the mortar, start from the corner opposite front door
- level the surface with a distribution roller
- let it dry. It is important to protect the surface from water at this time.

sunlight, temperature changes. Typically, after 10 hours,

You can already walk on the surface.

Dry screed

Recently, this type of screed has become increasingly popular. This

provide undeniable advantages:
— this type screeds do not need to be dried
— almost immediately after installing the screed, you can lay the finishing coating
- significantly lighter design than wet screed

However, such a screed is afraid of water, so when installing it, laying

waterproofing

So, the main stages of installing a dry screed:

- laying waterproofing
- laying damping material along the walls, which will provide compensation

thermal expansion/constriction of the screed
- laying expanded clay bedding - checking the evenness of the laying with a laser

level. If necessary, trim with a rubber mallet.
— we lay gypsum fiber boards, fasten them with self-tapping screws and glue. Let the screed stand for 2-3 hours,

after which you can begin installing the finishing coating.

Video: How to make a floor screed with your own hands

The most versatile, durable and durable flooring option is a cement screed, which can withstand temperature changes and is resistant to moisture. To achieve excellent result, it is necessary to strictly follow the operating technology.

Most often, the floor is leveled in the most popular, budget and affordable way - using cement and sand. A cement surface (as seen in the photo of the floor screed) is able to repel fats, acids and conducts heat well.

In order to save budget funds and be confident in the reliability of the work performed, many residential property owners wonder: how to make a floor screed with your own hands?

And this process is not fast, but quite accessible, even to a self-taught master.

What does the screed consist of?

This composition is quite easy to knead yourself, if you have the following components:

• water (2 parts);
• sand (3 parts);
• cement (1 part).

To make the screed as dense and reliable as possible, it is worth adding any adhesive substance - a plasticizer - to the solution. Adhesive compositions can be purchased ready-made at any hardware store.

A mortar of cement and sand can be placed on brick, concrete and stone. The solution is laid to a maximum thickness of 10 centimeters. If the layer is less than 3 centimeters thick, it is better to use a reinforcement method to avoid cracks.

Main types of cement screed

When screeding a floor in a house, different types are used, depending on the goal that needs to be achieved in the end:

• Screed using a floating structure with insulating layers.
• A screed that is connected to the surface of the wall and floor.
• Cement screed, independent of surface type.

Preparing for work

Before starting work with cement screed need to be properly prepared work surface. That is, you need to clean the floor in the room and carefully level it before work.

There is a situation when the screed is made directly onto the ground. In this case, it needs to be compacted properly, then pour in the bitumen mixture to make the screed smooth. If this is not done, then cracks may appear on the finished surface, as the base will sag over time.

The second step is installing beacons, that is, measuring the space of the room with a level and installing icons that correspond required height. This ensures the floor is smooth and even.

Beacons help in the future to fill a perfectly flat surface without any problems. Most often, the posts are placed every 30 centimeters, then beacons - slats - are attached to them.

Until the very high level must be filled cement composition, while it is much easier to calculate the required amount of mortar for floor screed in an apartment, that is, to avoid unnecessary unnecessary costs for materials.

Direct work on floor screed

If the surface is leveled by about 4 centimeters, it is better to make a tied screed. This way the filling will connect both the base of the surface and the wall of the room.

The composition of the solution itself should be moderately thick and flow freely (without lumps) just above the level of the beacons. This is necessary because as it dries further, the fill will settle a little.

To get rid of excess air (bubbles), after pouring it is necessary to compact the solution with a vibrating lath.

Pay attention!

After 24 hours, the beacons can be removed, and the traces left from them can be carefully primed and rubbed with a solution.

There is a non-cohesive option for leveling the surface. The instructions on how to make this screed are not at all complicated, but you need to take into account that you will need to provide an even and moisture-resistant base. To avoid cracks in the layers, the use of primers and similar substances is not recommended.

Dry floor screed is the most quick way make the most even coating that can withstand a fairly large load and is suitable for rooms with increased traffic.

Dry screed can be made from the following materials:

• moisture-resistant drywall;
• moisture-resistant plywood;

Typically, a dry screed is made at a height of 3 to 5 centimeters, but, if necessary, it can be higher, but it will require reinforcement with an additional layer of slabs.

Pay attention!

You will also need a dry filler - expanded clay, that is, special granules of fired clay that are light in weight.

For dry screed, profiles are used that are distributed one and a half meters apart from each other, strictly parallel, starting from the wall. Then the sheets are laid on a dry screed, starting strictly from the door.

The most traditional is still a concrete screed, which has been tested by experience and is used for finishing coatings and for the installation of heated floors. If necessary, then in this way it is easily possible to make any desired slope.

When screeding the floor yourself, it is important to know that the room should not be heated while the work is underway, as the composition may not dry evenly!

Photo of do-it-yourself floor screeds

Pay attention!