Do-it-yourself water well: manual drilling technologies. Drilling water wells with your own hands - how to make a device How to drive a pipe under water

In practice, I personally have not tried this method, but I cited an article from a friend of mine who does this for money.

I think this will be interesting to you, and I personally will try this method in the summer. Might come in handy in the future. The principle is quite simple. I made an animated picture showing how this should happen. Now let's see: first you need to buy 2 pumps, two barrels, hoses and pipes. Several 6-meter bars and of course pipe couplings. Using a shovel, dig a hole approximately 1 meter x 1 meter and 60 cm deep. The pipes should be approximately 2 meters long (longer is possible). Threads must be cut at both ends of the pipes. Later, when the pipe goes into the ground, a second pipe is screwed to it using a sleeve, and so on until you go deep to the desired depth.

The first pipe has teeth on one side that can be made with a grinder, and the second side of the pipe has a thread. First, you screw an adapter onto it with an end part for your hose. I was recommended to cut pipes 4-6 meters long. This way there is less hassle with unscrewing the adapter, and the weight of the structure becomes greater, which allows the pipe to cut into the ground more quickly. So, first things first. First, we make a tripod out of timber and place it over the dug hole. At the top of the tripod we attach a roller through which we pass the rope. It is better to secure the tripod by connecting the three legs at the bottom and in the middle with the same beam. A little further from the tripod we drive a wooden or metal pin into the ground. It’s even better to make a drum like for raising water from a well. We attach one end of the rope to it. We tie the other one to the pipe.

We insert the pipe with the connected fitting into the hole. Next we move on to the barrels. Next to the pit, one barrel is placed on the ground, the second on a platform made from available materials at the height of the upper level of the first barrel. We drill a hole at the bottom of the upper barrel and insert a pipe with a tap there. We fill the top barrel with dry grass, which serves as a kind of filter, and place a mesh on top obliquely. The mesh will clean out large fractions of soil that got in with the water, then this soil will simply fall down. The grass filters small parts of the soil and flows from the upper barrel to the lower one.

There is a pump in the bottom barrel that takes water and delivers it under pressure into your pipe. The water comes out from the bottom of the pipe and washes away the soil. This cloudy suspension ends up in your hole. The second soil pump pumps muddy water into the upper barrel. In this case, a small part of the soil gets into the barrel with water. The main part of it begins to grow out of the hole before our eyes. After some time, you remove it with a shovel.

Thus, the pipe itself is buried, and the soil is thrown up like a geyser. You just need to throw away the soil and watch the level of the washed-out soil.

THE FOLLOWING METHOD IS PERSONALLY TESTED BY ME.

I don’t use a casing pipe, drill, headstock, bailer, etc. for this... The pipe for such a well, in my opinion, is needed 5-10 cm, and no more: it completely ensures an uninterrupted supply of water using a household high-performance pump. The method is as simple as twice two. At the same time, you do not pay the drillers, and at the beginning of 2007 this costs approximately 30-45 thousand rubles. Digging a well also costs a lot. Without the cost of the rings, you will pay approximately a thousand American tugriks. And if you are not a rich person and the few bucks you save is a significant amount of your family budget, then this topic is definitely for you.

First you need to stock up on pipes. I recommend pipes with a diameter of approximately 5 cm. The length of the pipes should be approximately 1.5 - 2 meters. Take 8 pieces just in case. Cut threads at the ends of the pipes and buy bushings so that you can connect the pipes with bushings. Buy also a steel rod. Its length should be 2-2.5 meters. The rod also has threads at the ends and connecting sleeves of its own diameter. You will also need to make a steel cone, the diameter of which is larger than the diameter of the pipe. We weld a piece of pipe with cut longitudinal slots to it. These cracks should subsequently be wrapped with mesh. They are a filter. You can weld strips of hard steel to the cone (for example, pieces of a sharpened flat file), but only so that upon impact, these strips create a slight rotation in the direction of twisting the pipes. Next we do the following:

The pipe is clogged (and thereby a well is formed) using your composite rod, consisting of two pieces of steel rod dia. 20-30 mm. and 2.5 m long, with threads at the ends. This rod is lowered inside the pipe (filter) and rests against a cone welded to the filter. Together with a partner, having installed the filter vertically along a plumb line, we take the bar with our hands, lift it up and sharply lower it - in short, we hit it. The impact of the rod falls on the cone. When the filter is deep, tow soaked in paint is wound onto its threaded part, then a coupling is screwed in, and the next piece of pipe 2 ... 2.5 m long is screwed into it. If the rod is short, extend it and hit it again. Having driven to a depth of 3-6 meters, we check whether there is water in the well. We take a bucket of water and pour it into the pipe (do not pull out the rod). If the water is standing in the pipe; does not go away, which means we have not reached the aquifer. We beat another meter, check again by pouring water. Aquifers come in layers, so, in my opinion, it is more rational to drill a well into the second aquifer, or at least to the bottom of the first layer. And the layer can be up to 10 meters thick.

It is not always reasonable to test the aquifer by pouring water into a pipe. In some cases, the water goes into the sand layer. After all, I can’t check which layer I’ve reached. If the water is slowly leaving, then we are theoretically at the beginning of the aquifer; we break through another 0.5-1 m, fill with water. Now the water should quickly go into the pipe - we have reached the aquifer. We start to pull out the bar, but it doesn’t move, it’s jammed. Don’t be upset, take a hammer and hit the bar, but not from above, but from the side from the top. With these impacts you create vibration, and the soil that has entered the pipe through the filter mesh is “liquefied” and the rod is released. Having pulled out the rod, we screw the fitting with the pump onto the well. Can be manual or electric. After pumping out two or three buckets muddy water usually comes out clean.

It is advisable to pump out a couple of two hundred liter barrels. You will be convinced of the quantity of water and its quality. Then we pour clean water into the pan and boil it, and then taste it to see what quality it is. If it is bad, then after boiling it becomes reddish or cloudy, and sediment will fall to the bottom. Then you will have to deepen the well another meter. Not to be confused with limewater sediment if it comes through limestone rock.

It also happens: after a few years, the water in the well disappears (the electric pump does not “take” it, but the manual pump pumps very slowly). This is a sign of a clogged filter. Many people flush wells with various solutions. I maintain that this has little effect in practice; such flushing only poisons the aquifer. It is easier and more reliable to pull the filter out of the ground, but this is not always possible. This happens quite rarely with a competent approach to the matter, and in this case you have to use a truck crane or a jack. In this case, you need to lower the rod into the well and hit the cone a dozen times, then apply the listed mechanisms. After 10-20 cm, the rise stops again; you need to hit it again, and after 2 hours you will pull out the filter. As a rule, it turns out to be covered with a black oily coating. Fill up with water, pour the filter on top and wire brush rub along the mesh. For better cleaning pour in “silite”, which will remove rust from everything. Gradually the plaque is washed off.

Check the pipes too: sometimes rust makes small fistulas in them. Because of this, the integrity is compromised and the well may not work (due to air leaks or soil getting into fistulas). It is better, of course, to replace the pipes with new ones. And again you can drive them in the same place where the well was before.

This method has been tested in practice. Hundreds of wells have been drilled using this method. All are still working today. Some were driven to a depth of more than 20 meters, into artesian layers of water.

You can drill a water well on your property, despite the seeming enormity of this process. on our own, i.e. manually. To do this, you will need a metal auger, the so-called coil, for which a fishing ice ax is quite suitable. This method of drilling a water well is the cheapest possible.

Required Tools and materials for drilling a water well:

The main tool that will be used is an auger with extension arms; in the absence of a special one, you can safely use a fishing drill. For better efficiency process, it is recommended to weld reinforced cutters onto the cutting edges of the drill. For this purpose, you can use a couple of files, which can be sharpened with an ordinary grinder. And of course the pipes for the elbows, the diameter of which is 25 mm.

You will also need a shovel, a cart for removing the selected soil, a pump and a hose for “swinging” the well, a barrel or a high table on which you will need to stand and sift out the gravel.

Preparing the pipe for lowering into the well

Before lowering pipes into a well, they must be properly prepared. This important point, because the drilled section tightens very quickly and the pipes must be lowered immediately after removing the drill. Pipes can be purchased at specialized construction stores; thick-walled polyethylene pipes are best suited.

Preparation of the pipe consists of drilling perforating holes, approximately at a distance of 0.5-1.0 meters from the bottom end and over a distance of 1.5-2 meters. It is enough to make the holes with a 6 mm drill; if you make them wider, you will need a filter mesh.

Then guide bars are prepared, which are attached to the surface of the pipe. The bars are necessary to center the pipe in the well and provide equal clearance in order to evenly distribute the filter gravel screenings.

Technology for drilling a well manually using an auger

The place where the well will be installed must first be leveled. To begin with, a guide recess for the drill is dug to a depth of 2 spade bayonets. Having assembled the tool, you can proceed directly to the drilling process itself.

At the initial stage, one person can easily rotate the drill, but as you get deeper, additional help will be needed. The deeper the drill goes, the harder it will be to rotate it, so you can use water to soften the soil. Making two or three full turns, the drill is pulled out and freed from the soil, dumping it into the cart. The sludge is poured away from the work site so that it does not create additional interference.

Thus, they drill until the tool handle drops to the ground. After this, the drill is extended with an additional elbow.

After the handle has been lengthened, naturally the size of the tool no longer allows working with it while standing on the ground. Just for this case it is needed metal barrel or another pedestal, standing on which you can rotate the drill by the handle. Or they use gas pipe wrenches for the handle.

Increasing the bends, drilling continues until entering the aquifer. This moment will be very clearly visible from the condition of the soil being removed. At this phase, it is possible for the tool to be tightened, so you should remove the cuttings in small portions, otherwise it will not be possible to pull out the drill manually. If, nevertheless, the drill is “sucked in”, so that it can no longer be pulled out by hand, you will have to resort to an Archimedean lever, using two logs and a barrel for this, or buy a lever chain winch.

To prevent high water from entering the well, its depth must be greater than the first clay layer. Before lowering the pipe, it is necessary to raise and lower the drilling tool several times, like a piston. This will remove possible obstacles in the way of the pipe and make its descent much easier. After the pipe is completely lowered, the gap should be filled with screenings of gravel - this is usually screening from sand sand and gravel mixture. Without sand, as sand can penetrate inside the well.

How to pump a well

In order to quickly pump the well, it is better to use a powerful centrifugal pump. Such a pump is capable of handling very dense media. Although you can get by with a regular household pump. In order for the vibration pump to work more efficiently, you should periodically lift it and shake the water with the assembled knees to lift heavy particles from the bottom, and then continue pumping water again with a pump with a lower water intake, otherwise the pump with an upper water intake will contribute to silting of the well.

When the well is rocked, the filter gravel screenings will shrink, so it should be added periodically.

The process of rocking the well is quite time-consuming, so you should worry about the drainage channels or try to reach the drainage ditch with a hose.

Once the well is fully pumped, it should be equipped with a pump for everyday use.

Advantages and disadvantages of manual water well drilling

The advantage of manual drilling of wells, in addition to the low cost already mentioned above, is the fact that there is no need for bulky special equipment to enter the site, therefore, your green spaces or landscape design will not be harmed.

Having a relatively shallow depth, such wells are pumped much faster and are less susceptible to tightening.

If there is no electricity, water can be obtained using a hand suction pump.

The main disadvantage of manual drilling is the limited depth. Disadvantages include criticality to soil density and a shortage of specialists ready to undertake repairs if necessary, although this has a lower probability of occurrence than with deep machine wells.

Video on how to drill a well manually with your own hands:

Professional well drilling is a very expensive pleasure. Depending on the method of excavation, the cost of services of specialized companies ranges from 15-50 USD. i.e. for each meter of depth. Note that the task is really not easy, and therefore most owners of dachas and estates turn to specialists for a solution. Hence the goal of this material– consider options on how you can drill a well on the site with your own hands without the use of expensive equipment. We will describe the available methods so that you can assess the complexity and scope of work, and then begin moving along the chosen path.

How deep is drinking water?

This main question, which is set by the homeowner when organizing the water supply of the home. Only geological exploration can give an accurate answer. summer cottage, held in recent years. To make sure of this, it is worth studying the layout of aquifers in the thickness of the earth.

As you can see, the water is located at different horizons, between which lie impenetrable rocks - dense loam, limestone and clay. To determine the appropriate layer, we suggest deciphering the presented diagram a little:

1. Closest to the surface lies the water that enters the ground due to precipitation - the so-called perched water. In some places it starts from a depth of 0.4-0.8 m and continues up to 20 m. As a rule, this is dirty and poorly filtered water containing harmful impurities.
2. At depths of up to 30 m there are cleaner groundwater, whose supply is also fed by precipitation. Most home wells are dug precisely to this horizon (its upper limit can be located at a distance of 5-8 m from the surface). Before consumption, this water must be filtered.
3. Underground water accumulations located in the sand layer have undergone good natural filtration and are suitable for drinking water supply. If you want to make a well with your own hands, you will need to reach this horizon.
4. The purest water is located in limestone voids at a depth of 80-100 m, which is unattainable using artisanal drilling methods. Since artesian water is under pressure, after drilling a well, the flow independently rises to ground level, or even splashes out.

Note. The boundaries of perched water and groundwater are indicated very arbitrarily; their depth may vary depending on the terrain and other factors.

Location of the source of autonomous water supply

When we have figured out between which layers a suitable horizon is located, we need to determine the location for the future source of water supply. We will not talk about dubious options such as dowsing with a frame or a slingshot made of vines, but will give a number of simple tips:

• find out everything about your neighbors' wells and boreholes: their depth, water quality and location;
• retreat as far as possible from sources of pollution - septic tanks, street toilets and barnyards;
• Please note: wells are not drilled at higher elevations; for this it is better to choose a lowland.

In any case, you need to be patient. It is likely that you will not be able to obtain drinking water the first time and will need to make several attempts.

About drilling technologies

Before we talk about the methods of drilling, we list the types of wells:

• to the water;
• on the sand;
• on limestone (artesian).

A shallow well for water is made in order to reach the upper horizons and organize the supply using a pump. This also includes an Abyssinian borehole well made from a small-diameter pipe. Accordingly, drilling for sand and limestone means going deep to the lower layers, as shown in the diagram above.

This is what auger drilling looks like

There are several technologies for punching narrow vertical channels in the thickness of the earth:

1. Using a drill made in the form of an auger. To reach the required depth, the drill is expanded with new sections as it dives.
2. Core drilling. In this case, the main tool is a hollow pipe with a sharp end, into which carbide teeth are welded. During the deepening process, the glass is filled with rock, which is periodically cleaned out.
3. Hydraulic method (direct or reverse flushing). The bottom line is that the drill is lowered into the channel along with the casing pipe, and the soil is constantly washed away from the working area by water pressure supplied by the drainage pump.
4. The shock-rope method involves driving the same glass and periodically excavating soil to the surface. This uses the impact force from the free fall of a tool placed inside the casing. Typically, the operator manually lifts the glass, tied by a cable to a reel, and then releases it into free flight to the bottom of the well.

Reference. To pass through loose layers or intermediate water carriers, when an auger or glass falls into the slurry, a special device is used - a bailer or a drill-spoon. This is a piece of pipe with check valve in the form of a petal or ball, filled with liquid rock with each dive. Then the bailer is raised and cleaned.

Construction of a homemade bailer

In addition to the methods listed above, water wells are drilled using Abyssinian well technology. In short, a pipe with a diameter of 32 mm with a cone at the end is immersed to the groundwater level, which is subsequently pumped out of the well by a surface pump.

In order to drill a well on a well site with your own hands and not use specialized equipment, you can implement only 2 technologies: shock-rope and Abyssinian well. We will talk about them further.

How to make impact punching

This is the most inexpensive technology, but quite labor-intensive. To work you will need the following devices:

• tripod made of rolled metal with a hook and a block on top;
• winch with a cable equipped with a handle;
• driving tool - glass and bailer;
• welding machine;
• hand drill

Glass for punching soil

Advice. If you have a welding inverter and the skills to work with it, you can weld these simple devices in your garage. But making homemade devices justified when you need to drill not just one well, but 10 or 20. It’s easier to rent a tripod with a reel.

Before drilling the soil to the required depth, prepare casing pipes. Their diameter should be such that the working tool fits freely inside, but with minimal clearance, and the length should correspond to the height of the tripod. One condition: impact technology is not applicable on rocks or in soils with stone inclusions. To penetrate such horizons, you will need a drill with carbide tips.

Self-drilling a water well is carried out in the following order:

1. Make a filter from the first section of the casing by drilling staggered holes Ø8-10 mm in increments of 7-8 cm on a section of pipe 1 meter long. Cover the top of the hole with a stainless mesh secured with rivets.
2. Make a leader hole with a hand drill to a depth of 0.5-1 m. Here it is important to correctly position the tool at an angle of 90° to the surface so that the channel is strictly vertical.
3. Insert the first section of casing into the hole, adjust the vertical and place the impact tool inside.
4. Leaving an assistant to support the casing, lift and release the glass using the reel. When full, remove it and clean out the rock. As the soil is removed, the pipe will begin to take its place and gradually sink into the ground. To speed up the process, attach a couple of heavy weights to it.
5. When the edge of the first section drops to the surface of the ground, weld the second section to it, strictly controlling the vertical level. Continue working in the same way until you reach the water layer.

Welding the next section in level

Important point. While going through the high water, you will probably come across slurry that falls out of the iron glass. A mixture of clay and water must be selected from the well using the bailer method, installing it instead of a conventional tool.

When the end of the pipe drops 40-50 cm below the groundwater level, stop punching the channel and proceed to “swinging” the source. To do this, lower the pipe connected to the surface pump to the bottom of the HDPE and pour 2-3 buckets of water into the shaft. Then turn on the unit and let it run for 2 hours, monitoring the cleanliness and water pressure. The last step is to install a well and connect it to the water supply of the house, as described in. For more details on the drilling process, watch the video:

Abyssinian borehole

Unlike traditional underground canals, the Abyssinian well has a small diameter (no more than 50 mm) and water is pumped out of it by a surface pump, not a submersible one. There is an opinion that, due to the vacuum created, such a well does not silt up, and over time its flow rate only increases due to the forced erosion of soil capillaries. In reality, such statements have no serious basis.

Before making an Abyssinian well, prepare the required number of casing pipes 2-2.5 m long. Since a depth below 15 m is not expected, it is enough to have on hand 6-7 ready-made sections Ø50 mm plus the first section with a steel cone at the end - a needle. It will play the role of a drilling tool.

Finished needle with mesh

The technology looks like this:

1. Make the first section of the casing - the so-called needle. Weld a metal cone to its end, and make holes on the sides and place a mesh, as described in the previous section.
2. Dig a small leader hole, insert a needle into it and start driving, keeping it vertical. To do this, you can use the same tripod with a suspended weight or another device.
3. As you dive, weld new sections and continue hammering the casing. As you approach the calculated depth, check the appearance of water using a weight on a string.
4. After passing through the aquifer, lower a polymer pipeline connected to a hand column into the well. Fill it with water and pump the source for 30-60 minutes until clean water comes out. Then proceed with the installation of an autonomous water supply system.

Construction of an Abyssinian well

Advice. When you order the production of a steel cone, keep in mind that its “skirt” should be 3-5 mm wider than the casing pipe, so that when driving it does not tear off the mesh against the walls of the shaft. To make work easier, make the end of the needle as sharp as possible.

U Abyssinian well there is one significant drawback: before drilling it, you need to know exactly what is in this place there is groundwater. Otherwise, you risk burying all the pipes in the ground, since it is not always possible to remove them back. The advantages of the source are ease of implementation and minimal consumption of materials. If you wish, you can drill a similar well right in your house, as a team of workers demonstrates in the video:

Conclusion

Method impact drilling really suitable in a situation where you need to make a well in your country house on your own. And the Abyssinian well is built using the same technology. To use other methods - auger, core and hydraulic - you need special equipment - a drilling rig, drain pump and so on. But these options cannot be completely abandoned, despite the high prices, because the composition of the soil and the depth of the water carriers vary. You can’t break through rock by hand and you can’t go to a horizon of more than 50 m.

Design engineer with more than 8 years of experience in construction.
Graduated from the East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronics Industry Equipment in 2011.

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Drilling a well for water is complex and difficult, but interesting and exciting work. And, today, the most affordable way to establish an independent water supply: at the current cost of drinking water the costs of independent drilling, equipment and well development pay off in less than a year. Unless, of course, you take a barrel to the river in a wheelbarrow, risking a serious accident with something that would make the doctors’ eyes widen over their masks.

The earth and the water in it are a complex natural system. Therefore, there is no point in giving step-by-step instructions and step-by-step guides to the drilling business: anyway, in the depths, something will turn out to be wrong. However, miners have long learned to overcome almost any surprise in the underground world. And this article, based on this experience, provides the information necessary for a novice driller to ensure that, if not the first, then the second well with his own hands produces water in the required quantity of good quality.

Where to drill?

The general scheme of the formation of aquifers in nature is shown in Fig. Verkhovodka feeds mainly on sediments and lies within the range of approximately 0-10 m. High water can be suitable for drinking without deep treatment (boiling, filtration through shungite) only in individual cases and subject to regular testing of samples by sanitary authorities. Then, for technical purposes, the perched water is taken from a well; The well's flow rate in such conditions will be small and very unstable.

A water well is drilled independently into interstratal waters; highlighted in red in Fig. An artesian well that provides water of the best quality is very for a long time, it is impossible to drill on your own, even if you have a detailed geological map of the area at your disposal: the depth of occurrence is usually more than 50 m and only in exceptional cases does the formation rise to 30 m. In addition, independent development and extraction of artesian waters is categorically, subject to criminal liability. prohibited - it is a valuable natural resource.

Most often, it is possible to drill a well on your own into a gravity-fed formation.– sand soaked in water on a clay bed. Such wells are called sand wells, although the free-flowing aquifer can be gravel, pebble, etc. Free-flowing waters lie approximately 5-20 m from the surface. The water from them is most often drinkable, but only based on the test results and after pumping the well, see below. The debit is small, 2 cubic meters. m/day is considered excellent, and fluctuates somewhat throughout the year. Sand filtering is required, which complicates the design and operation of the well, see below. The lack of pressure increases the requirements for the pump and the entire water supply system.

The pressure strata lie deeper, in the range of about 7-50 m. The aquifer in this case is dense water-resistant fractured rocks - loam, limestone - or loose, gravel-pebble deposits. The best quality water comes from limestone, and such wells last longer. Therefore, water supply wells from pressure layers are called limestone wells. The formation's own pressure can lift water almost to the surface, which greatly simplifies the construction of a well and the entire water supply system. The debit is large, up to 5 cubic meters. m/day, and stable. A sand filter is most often not needed. As a rule, the analysis of the first water sample passes with a bang.

Note: But how do you find out which layer is available and accessible in a given place? The methods for finding water for drilling a well are generally the same as for. In the central zone of the Russian Federation, free-flowing water can almost always be found within the first 20 meters of depth.

Important circumstances

First: Mass uncontrolled intake of free-flow water can lead to the so-called. soil suffusion, as a result of which soil failures suddenly and unpredictably occur, see Fig.

Second: The critical depth for self-drilling on flat terrain in the Russian Federation is 20 m. Deeper - the cost of a custom turnkey well is less than the direct and indirect costs of a self-drill. In addition, the failure rate is close to 100%

Third: The service life of a well greatly depends on the regularity of water intake from it. If you take water little by little as you use it, a well for sand will last about 15 years, and for limestone up to 50 years or more. If you periodically pump everything out at once or, conversely, take it sporadically, the well will dry up in 3-7 years. Repairing and restarting a well is so complicated and expensive that it’s easier to drill a new one. If this circumstance surprises you, keep in mind that they are not repairing a pipe in the ground, but aquifer.

Based on this, we can already advise: if you find free-flowing water no deeper than 12-15 m, do not rush to rejoice, it is better to drill as far as possible to reach the limestone. And it’s best not to be lazy and carry out exploratory drilling with a needle well, see below. It is possible to make an igloo well literally in a weekend; complex and expensive equipment is not required. And it can also be a temporary source of water supply until you decide on a permanent one in terms of time, money, etc.

Note: a water well is called an igloo (more details at the link). You can literally break through it from the basement of the house, as in the video below:

Video: Abyssinian well in the house

Well or well?

It is known that digging a well is immeasurably more difficult, complex and dangerous work than drilling a well, as is the fact that a properly equipped well is repairable. But there is also a fundamental difference between them. Water is drawn from the well as much as the earth will give, i.e. how much will flow from the formation. And the action of a well is similar to drawing blood from a donor’s vein. That is why the service life of wells is limited and they can catastrophically change the geology of the area. A well can provide water for decades and centuries, and a well made in rocky soil can provide water for millennia, without in any way affecting the local ecology and geology. Therefore, private water wells are drilled, with the goal of either building a collective artesian water supply system (artesian wells are durable and environmentally friendly), or, having mustered the courage and resources, to dig a well. At the same time, the water supply system of the house is being built completely, because... In general, she just needs pressure, except for some nuances, see below. And the abandoned well is plugged with concrete mortar and the land around it is returned to the farm.

Types of wells

A borehole is a long, narrow cavity in rock called a borehole. When drilling, a drilling tool (a drill bit or simply a drill) is lowered into a shaft on a rigid assembly rod made of pipes (a drill string or drill rod) or a cable. A pipe or several concentric pipes are placed in the shaft - casing (case pipe, case string) - protecting the walls of the shaft from collapse and maintaining rock pressure. The casing can fit tightly in the barrel or with some gap - the annulus; it is filled with backfill or clay ( clay castle) or filled with concrete. The lower end of the trunk can be open, plugged, or end in a stepped narrowing - the bottom. An intake device is made at the bottom or at the bottom of a production well for liquid minerals. The upper part of the casing is called the well head. A set of devices that make up the well arrangement is placed around the head or in it. Of the many well designs, most of all the types shown in Fig. pass independently; a more detailed diagram of the well with casing is shown there, pos. 5.

1 – needle hole. The drill rod, casing and drill string are one; the drill remains in the ground. Passing a needle hole by impact, see below. A core driver, a set of drilling tools, and other equipment for drilling wells with a separate casing for a needle well are not required, see fig. right. The penetration speed reaches 2-3 m/hour, and the maximum depth achieved in this way is about 45 m. Needle wells are used for constructing Abyssinian wells, especially in the country. The output of the needle well is small, but summer time quite stable. Its service life does not depend on the intensity and regularity of water intake, but it is unpredictable: there are Abyssinian wells that have been providing water for more than 100 years, but they can dry up in six months. The needle well cannot be repaired; it can only be drilled in not very dense and homogeneous soils. The maximum diameter of the drill rod when drilling without a copter is up to 120 mm, which is sufficient for a submersible pump with a caliber of 86 mm.

Note: when drilling an exploratory needle well, it is better to use a simple filter, on the left in Fig.

2 – imperfect well. She seems to be hanging in the seam. It does not require sophisticated knowledge of geology and drilling skills, but the flow rate is lower and the water quality is worse than the maximum possible for a given formation. The maximum water quality can be obtained if the well below is plugged. In addition, perhaps the so-called. pulling the drilling tool and casing deep. Self-propelled wells are most often imperfect; much of the following material concerns them. Wells in thick aquifers are also drilled imperfectly, because when deepened into the formation by 1.5-2 m, the debit stabilizes and almost does not grow deeper.

3 – perfect well. The casing rests on the roof of the underlying waterproof layer. The flow rate and quality of water are maximum, but to drill a perfect well, precise knowledge of local geology and the experience of the driller are necessary, otherwise, firstly, the casing may be pulled into the underlying formation if it is plastic. Secondly, when drilling, you can pierce the litter, and the water will go down; this is especially true in dry areas with thin layers. Thirdly, just one incorrectly drilled well can cause serious damage to the local ecology.

4 – well with bottom. It can be either perfect or imperfect. The bottomhole makes it easier to maintain the well and makes it repairable to some extent, but experienced drillers must drill a bottomhole well according to the local geology.

Note: in some sources the bottom of the well is called a sump. This is also incorrect in German; the bottom of a well and the sump of a well are completely different things.

Drilling methods

You can drill wells yourself in the following ways:

1. Rotary, or rotary - the drill bit rotates, biting into the rock;
2. Impact - they hit the drill rod, deepening the drill bit into the rock, this is how needle holes are drilled;
3. Impact-rotational - the rod with the drilling tool is raised several times and lowered with force, loosening the rock, and then rotated, taking it into the cavity of the tool, see below;
4. Rope-percussion - a special drilling tool is raised and lowered on a rope, taking away the rock.

All these methods relate to dry drilling. When hydrodrilling, the working process occurs in a layer of water or a special drilling fluid that increases the compliance of the rock. Hydrodrilling is not environmentally friendly and is expensive special equipment and high water consumption. In amateur conditions, it is used in exceptional cases, in an extremely simplified and limited form, see below.

Dry drilling, except for impact drilling without casing, can only be intermittent, i.e. the drill has to be lowered into the trunk, then removed from it in order to select the rock from the drill. In professional hydraulic drilling, crushed rock is carried out with spent drilling fluid, but an amateur needs to know for sure: to go through the trunk to depth in 1 drilling cycle, greater length the working part of the tool is not allowed. Even if you drill with an auger (see below), you need to lift it and shake out the rock from the turns after a maximum of 1-1.5 m of penetration, otherwise the expensive tool will have to be given to the ground.

Casing installation

The attentive reader may already have a question: how do they install casing in the barrel? Or how do they raise/lower the drill, which, in theory, should be wider than it? In professional drilling - in different ways. The oldest is illustrated in Fig. on the right: the axis of rotation of the tool is shifted relative to its longitudinal axis (circled in red), and the cutting part is made asymmetrical. The neck of the drill is made conical. All this, of course, is carefully calculated. Then, in operation, the drill describes a circle extending beyond the casing, and when lifted, its neck slides along its edge and the drill slips into the pipe. This requires powerful, precise drive of the drill string and its reliable centering in the casing. As the casing deepens, it is built up from above. Complex special equipment is not available to amateurs, so they can install casing pipes in the following ways:

• They drill a “bare” trunk without casing to full depth with a drill of a larger diameter than the casing pipe, and then lower the casing pipes into it. To prevent the entire column from falling down, they use 2 drill gates: one holds the pipe that has already gone into the well, see fig. on the right, and the second one is installed on the new one before removing the first one. Only then is the column pushed into the trunk if it no longer moves. This method is often used by amateurs on fairly dense, adhesive (sticky) and cohesive (not loose) soils to a depth of 10 m, but there are no statistics on how many wells collapsed, how many drills and casing were lost.
• The drill is taken with a smaller diameter, and the lower casing is made with diverging sharpened teeth (crown) or equipped with a cutting skirt. Having drilled for 1 cycle, the drill is filled, and the pipe is forced to settle; a crown or skirt cuts off excess soil. This method slows down drilling, because before starting a new cycle, you need to use a bailer (see below) to select the crumbled soil, but it is more reliable, makes it easier to fill the annulus with gravel and allows you to use an external sand filter, see below.

Drilling tool

Now let's see which drill to drill into which soil and in what way, see fig. right:

The cutting edges of all drills are made of hardened steel. Drawings of a homemade drill-glass, an analogue of a spoon drill (the cutting blades are installed by a propeller at an angle of 3-10 degrees) and a diagram of the bailer are shown in the following. rice. right. The outer diameters of all these drills can be changed depending on the caliber of the well.

How do they drill?

Mobile drilling rigs that allow you to drill directly from the ground, like the one in Fig. left,

Unfortunately, they are not available for rent: managing them requires vocational training and the very fact of ownership, albeit temporary, of a license for drilling operations. Therefore, we will have to start the old fashioned way, in the Gorshchitsky way - with a homemade copra, unless the woman beats the needle well.

Koper

The simplest pile driver is a tripod made of logs or steel pipes in the form of an equilateral triangular pyramid - a tetrahedron, pos. 1 in Fig. below. This design is very strong and rigid with minimal material consumption. The height of a tetrahedron is equal to 0.8165 of the length of its edge, i.e. from ordinary 6-m logs, taking into account the penetration of the pile driver's legs into the ground, a tripod with a height of about 4.5 m will be obtained, which will allow the use of casing pipe bends up to 3 m in length. In general, the height of the piledriver is taken 1.2-1.5 m higher maximum length of what will go down into the trunk.

The legs of the piledriver can be fastened together with a frame made of the same logs/pipes to prevent them from moving, but in order to save material, you can also dig 0.7-0.8 m into the ground, placing a piece of log about 1 m long horizontally under the heel of each - a bed. Assembling the copra tent on the ground, pos. 3, the legs are simultaneously (three or six of them) inserted into the pits with the beds and the soil is poured back, compacting it tightly.

Note: strengthening the legs of a piledriver directly on the ground with crowbars or steel rods driven in from the outside is extremely dangerous!

The pile driver is equipped with a lifting and drilling gate (pos. 1 and 2), a block with a hook (pos. 1, 2, 4) and a rocking lever for lifting the drill, cable-impact drilling, setting casing pipes and working with a bailer, pos. 2. The block hook and drills that have an eye (a ring for fastening the rope) are tied with an anchor knot (it is also called a fishing bayonet, pos. 1 in the figure on the right), and long loads are tied with a cargo knot, pos. 2 there.

Shurf

Having installed the pile driver, a hook with a compact weight (a sledgehammer, for example) is lowered to the ground, this is where the trunk will begin. Around this point, they dig (hammer) a hole measuring approximately 1.5 x 1.5 x 1.5 m. In the hole, they also mark the starting point and drill the first 3-4 m with an auger, constantly checking its verticality. This is an extremely important operation; the fate of the entire well depends on the first meters! Further, if drilling will be to a depth of more than 7 m, it is highly desirable to install a conductor - a pipe with a diameter larger than the diameter of the annulus of the wellbore. The conductor is carefully aligned to the vertical and concreted.

Note: Attention! When choosing the dimensions of the well, drills and pipes, tie them to the caliber of the submersible pump! The gap between its body and the nearest wall must be at least 7 mm or according to the specifications for the unit. The most common caliber of household submersible pumps– 86 mm.

Prokhodka

Methods of drilling with different projectiles on different soils are described above. Problems can arise, in addition to boulders, with dense dry clay, this is a very harmful rock. You can deal with it in different ways, for example, as shown here:

Video: drilling water wells in dense clay

In general, rotary-percussion or cable-percussion hydraulic drilling is used to penetrate dense clay, see figure on the right. There is no need to pump water that is not yet available. You can simply pour several buckets into the casing, wait half an hour or less, and try which one takes better - a glass or a spoon. You don’t have to try it with an auger, the clay will take it.

Casing and column

The drill string is assembled from steel pipes with a diameter of about 80 mm and walls with a thickness of 4 mm. Whether you take ready-made drill elbows or make them yourself, pay attention to the connection method. Only connections with bayonet couplings are suitable for manual drilling! Threaded and locking ones of any kind are not suitable: the rod will inevitably have to be turned in the opposite direction at some point and the rod will unscrew and the lock will come apart during any type of impact drilling.

During the drilling process, as already mentioned, casing pipes are also installed. Nowadays, even in professional drilling to shallow depths, plastic casings have become practically no alternative, but you need to take special casings:

• Lightweight, you can move it alone.
• Withstand forced settlement and soil pressure with a force of up to 5 tf.
• They practically do not slow down the internal filter, see below, when installing it.
• They do not corrode or spoil water throughout their service life, up to 50 years.

The only thing that plastic casing is afraid of is damage from the inside by the drill rod. Therefore, it is advisable to use drill pipe centralizers, see fig. on the right, 1 for every 3-5 m of the rod. The cheapest ones are steel spring ones, they are quite suitable. As for the complex ones with turbulators, etc., they are for professional hydraulic drilling.

Sprinkling

As the casing deepens into the barrel, it is necessary to add fine gravel into the annulus. Gravel filling of a water well will greatly speed up its pumping and extend its service life. And a sand well without backfill may turn out to be completely inoperable.

There is water!

The achievement of the aquifer by a needle well is judged by the increase in the rate of penetration, and the presence of water is checked with a snare - a piece of steel pipe welded at one end and lowered into the well on a cord. With other wells it is simpler: as the drill once again brought out wet soil, it means there is water. It remains to be decided whether it is necessary to go deeper. To do this, use a centrifugal submersible pump (the vibrating pump will immediately clog in such slurry) to pump out several buckets. If the water in the 5th bucket has not noticeably brightened, you need to go deeper another 0.5 m (1 drilling cycle) and check again. If you have already gone 2 m deep, but the sample is still the same - that’s it, there will be no more debit, and you will have to put up with a long buildup. Also, if the penetration rate suddenly drops (and it is very difficult for an inexperienced driller to detect it using any drilling method other than rotary), then drilling is stopped immediately - we are at the bottom of the formation, the well will be perfect.

Note: When drilling stops or is interrupted, the rod with the drill must be removed, otherwise it will be pulled into the ground.

Rocking up

A drilled well will not yet provide water in the required quantity and quality. To do this, it is necessary to either open the aquifer or pump the well. Opening up the formation allows you to get drinking water within 24 hours. It requires a large amount clean water, complex and expensive equipment. Please note: the autopsy is performed directly and in reverse ways. In direct drilling, water is pumped under pressure into the casing and drilling fluid is pumped out of the annulus. When reversed, water is fed by gravity “behind the pipe” and the solution is pumped out of the trunk. Direct opening is faster, but it disrupts the structure of the formation more strongly and the well lasts less. The opposite is the opposite. Keep this in mind when negotiating with drillers if you order a well.

Bore pumping takes several days, but can be done with a conventional household submersible centrifugal pump; vibration is not suitable for the reasons stated above. To pump, first remove silt from the well using a bailer; You can see how to use a bailer in the video below:

Video: cleaning (swinging) a well with a homemade bailer

The rest is not difficult: the water is completely pumped out every time there is enough of it to cover the pump. It is useful to raise and lower it on the cable rope several times before turning it on to stir up the residual sludge. The swing can be done with a manner, but scooping will take a lot of work, and it will take two weeks.

Note: as the rocking progresses, the gravel backfill will settle; it must be replenished by adding more.

The pumping of the well is considered complete when the transparency of the water rises to 70 cm. It is checked with a white enamel or earthenware disk with a diameter of 15 cm (saucer, saucepan lid) in an opaque vessel, for example. clean barrel. When the edges of the disk begin to blur during immersion, stop, it’s already opaque. You need to look at the disk strictly vertically. Once transparency is achieved, the water sample is submitted for analysis and, if everything is OK, the annulus is concreted or closed with clay, and a filter is installed.

Filter

A well filter is the main device that ensures the quality of water from it. And at the same time, it is the component most susceptible to wear, so the choice of a well filter must be taken with full responsibility.

Artesian water is taken without filtration. For a well on limestone, most often a simple mesh filter in the form of perforation on the lower bend of the casing is sufficient; it will also serve as the basis for a sand well filter. The perforation requirements are:

• The diameter of the holes is 15-20 mm, up to 30 mm depending on the ground.
• The filter duty cycle (the ratio of the total area of ​​the holes to the surface area they occupy) is 0.25-0.30, for which the distance between the centers of the holes is taken to be 2-3 times greater than their diameter.
• The holes are arranged in transverse rows in a checkerboard pattern.
• The total area of ​​all holes is not less than the cross-sectional area of ​​the casing pipe lumen.

For a sand well, firstly, gravel backfill is necessary; V in this case It is this that ensures long-term water quality, just like in a well. In view of this, well filters with a layer of gravel included in the design are available for sale. There is no harm in them, but the wellbore needs a larger diameter, which makes drilling difficult, and without external backfilling, the well still quickly silts up.

Further, if you follow the flow of water, there is the same perforated pipe, but now it will load-bearing element, which absorbs rock pressure. To prevent sand, which gravel does not retain well, from spoiling the entire water supply tract, you also need a sand filter. It can be external or external (on the left in the figure) or internal (on the right in the same place). External filters have three advantages: minimal diameter and siltation of the well and pump installation depth. But they are easily damaged during casing installation, are unrepairable and expensive, because... due to the latter, circumstances must be fulfilled from a very quality materials: alloys for mesh and wire of external well filters are more expensive than silver.

When installing a pump in a well with an internal filter, its bottom is considered to be its upper edge, so the volume of one-time water withdrawal is seriously reduced. The problem with all internal filters is increased silting of the well due to water seeping into the gap between the filter and the casing. Also, as a result, the service life of the filter is reduced, and pump wear increases, because sand gets into it. Often, therefore, the pump is placed in a separate pipe mounted on the outlet of the filter, which again requires an increase in the diameter of the well.

The best option is to connect the pump directly to the filter outlet, then both silting and sanding will stop. But this requires a centrifugal pump with an intake pipe on the bottom, which makes it much more complicated and expensive, and the vibration pressure is often low for sand wells.

The filter elements of sand filters are sometimes made independently from PVC pipes, stainless springs and polymer mesh, see fig. on the left, but they filter poorly and do not last long. It’s better to take a good store-bought filter; its operating conditions are too difficult, and taking it out, as they say, is quite a task. In this case, there are basically 3 options, see fig:

1. Polymer stacked ring filter. Cheaper than others, but lasts less and is prone to silting, but it is repairable: you can lift it and sort it out, replacing bad rings. Requires an increased well diameter;
2. Tubular-wire with a winding of profiled wire. A little more expensive than polymer, but it lasts a long time and does not silt. Repairs do not require a bulkhead; just wash the top. It would be optimal if not for one “but”: cases of fraud by manufacturers, traders, and drillers have been repeatedly noted - how completely stainless filters are supplied, in which the longitudinal rods are made of ordinary galvanized wire. It is impossible to check without breaking the filter, but harmful impurities soon appear in the water, and then the rods completely rust, the winding slips, and the entire filter has to be replaced.
3. Support-free welded filters, wire and slotted. They would be ideal (the latter can withstand settling into the barrel from the outside on the pipe), if not for the price: they are made from the same profiled stainless wire that costs about the same as silver.

Arrangement and automation

To supply water to the house, a well must be equipped and mutually coordinated with the water supply. The arrangement of water supply wells has undergone radical changes in recent years. The traditional scheme (see figure on the right) - a caisson, concrete or steel, or stone pit, which requires a large amount of additional excavation work and usable land area for itself, is becoming a thing of the past. Nowadays, water wells are increasingly equipped with well adapters, see Fig. below. Installing the adapter is quite a painstaking task, but it is incomparable with a caisson-pit sweep:

• As soon as the water begins to flow, they judge by the speed of its clearing how much further it is possible to go deeper, and cut the last casing pipe to size from above.
• Before installing it, make a trench to the house to a depth greater than the standard depth of soil freezing.
• A hole for the adapter is pre-drilled in the pipe and installed, plugging the pipes. If you place it directly in a well, it may gurgle there.
• They place the pipe and drill further, orienting the outlet of the adapter into the trench at a depth greater than the freezing depth.
• They rock the well, install the filter, lower the pump, connect the pump supply pipe and the transit pipe to the house to the adapter fittings, and lay the pump cable.
• They put the well cap on, when the water has flowed into the tank, fill up the trench - that’s it.

Water supply to a private house from a well has its own characteristics, but they will not prevent you from later connecting to a collective water supply or drinking water from a well. You won’t have to redo anything, it will only be more reliable.

First, you need a pressure storage tank. The flow rate of a non-artesian well may, for unknown reasons, drop until it stops completely, and then the water flows again as if nothing had happened. Secondly, downstream of the tank along the water flow you need at least a 2-stage membrane filter. In public water supply systems, water quality is continuously monitored, which is not the case at home. What if there is a man-made accident or an unauthorized discharge of pollution somewhere in the reservoir’s recharge zone? Everyone has already forgotten when it was, but bad water just approached the well.

Finally, the home water supply must comply with the principle of gradual, uniform water withdrawal, which was discussed at the beginning. Cooperating with neighbors, as when building a common septic tank, is not the best solution in this case. Suddenly there won’t be enough debit for everyone, instead of a community there will be squabbles. Those. we need automation that turns on the booster pump as soon as someone somewhere opens a tap.

There are 2 options here. The first is a pressure tank with a float valve in a warm attic. All automation consists of a rod that passes in a sleeve through the tank cover and rests on the float lever, and a 6-10 A microswitch (micrik) with normally closed contacts in the pump power supply circuit. While the tank is full, the rod presses on the microphone lever, the pump is de-energized. As soon as water began to flow into the house, the rod dropped, the microphone went off, and the pump started pumping.

However, firstly, you need to insulate the attic, which costs a lot of work and money. The second is a pump, it will require an extra 4-5 meters of pressure, and for a 2-story house, all of 8-9, so the pump turns out to be expensive. Thirdly, a leak in the tank or a malfunction of the float will lead, at a minimum, to the ceiling getting wet. Therefore, modern automation for water supply wells, controlled by a microcontroller that monitors flow, water pressure and the frequency of turning on the pump, is still cheaper and more reliable. House plumbing is then carried out with a sealed membrane storage tank in the basement.

Afterword

The drilling masters who once developed Tyumen and Urengoy are still alive. There were no geophysical equipment that built a 3D picture of what was in the ground on a computer display, and there were no fully robotic drilling rigs at that time, but they already saw through the earth with their intuition, experience and were on friendly terms with all the spirits of the subsoil. And the then ministers and members of the Politburo, who had more arrogance than the old Testament boyars and appanage princes, addressed these aces as “you” by name and patronymic and respectfully shook their hands.

So, any of the old bison drillers have failed wells, which they are not ashamed of - that’s how they work. What then should we say to beginners who act independently? Don't be discouraged by failure; suddenly the first well turns out to be empty, or collapses, or the drill gets stuck. Not without that in the drilling business. But frustration and disappointment will instantly subside under the powerful pressure of, as they say now, positivity, as soon as your well produces water.

Availability of a well suburban area, is often a necessary condition to create comfort. Many people prefer to have an independent source, even if there is a centralized water supply. The absence of this necessitates the need to extract water from the subsoil. Level modern technology significantly expanded drilling capabilities. But a DIY water well remains a reality and an inexpensive way to provide it.

Providing water is a primary task when arranging any living space. Today there are several ways to extract water:

• well;
• Abyssinian well:
• sand well;

• artesian well.

Construction of a well is a labor-intensive and therefore expensive process.

Another disadvantage is that water is drawn from the upper layers, which creates a high probability of contamination, both external and entering through the upper layers of the soil. The amount of water is limited, the average flow rate is 0.5 cubic meters per hour. The well requires constant cleaning and repair, all these processes are carried out manually.

A well is a more modern, reliable, durable and affordable way to obtain water. You can drill a well for water in any plot of land. Depending on the depth of the aquifers, the type of construction is selected: Abyssinian well, sand or artesian well. If the aquifer is located at a depth of up to 12 m, an Abyssinian well is drilled. If this indicator is 50 m, water can be extracted using a sand well. Artesian is necessary if the water is at a depth of up to 200 m.

The Abyssinian well has a small diameter; surface dirt and dust do not fall into it. Cheap and reliable option with moderate amounts of water use. A sand well has an average flow rate of 1.5 cubic meters per hour. This is a filter view, i.e. on aquifer sand is placed from polymers or stainless metal. The artesian well is filterless, the water is supplied clean, without impurities. The flow rate ranges from 5 to 100 cubic meters per hour.

A diagram of the operating principle of a water well (sandy view) gives a clear idea of ​​its internal structure.

Choosing the type of well is an extremely important and responsible process.

Useful advice! If there is no information about the depth of the water layer, it is not worth determining the type of well without preliminary exploration. This can lead to unplanned additional costs and unexpectedly low flow rates.

Basic methods drilling water wells

Purpose of the caisson. Prices and characteristics of the most popular models.

Tools used fordrilling water wells with your own hands

When constructing a water well with your own hands great value has correct selection tools. It determines the speed and quality of work.

The drilling tool must be made of durable and wear-resistant material, preferably steel. You can buy it in a store, or you can make it yourself and be confident in its quality. The main tools used when drilling a well yourself:

• spoon. It consists of a hollow steel cylinder, which has a threaded head at the top for connecting to the rods, and a cutting edge at the bottom. The body has a longitudinal slot with one edge bent inward, and the second is sharpened and can work like a blade when rotated. A drill spoon can be crafted in a workshop that has a lathe and a forge. These devices have a diameter of 70, 140 and 198 mm. This spoon size should be 10 mm greater than the diameter of the pipes lowered after drilling;
• chisel bit. The wellbore is rounded by rotating the bit 15–20 degrees after each impact. The tool is made by forging from a single piece of ductile steel. Its sharpening angle is 90 degrees. Chisel bits have a diameter of 74, 108, 147 mm. Small devices can be made in workshops that have at least a small forge, as well as lathes and planers;

• bailer. Its body consists of an iron or steel pipe, to the top of which is attached a fork with a tapered thread for hanging from a rope or attaching to working rods. At the bottom of the pipe is equipped with a steel cutting shoe with a valve. The bailer body can be made from casing or gas pipe 1–2 m long;
• screw. It has flat spirals with a rapid pitch. At the end of the tool there is a drill that destroys the rock, and flat spirals bring it to the surface. The efficiency of the auger can be increased by using a small motor for rotation, for example, from a saw, motor plow, etc.;
• cup. It is a regular pipe with pointed lower ends. Working with it involves lifting and dropping it from a height of 2–3 m to the face. The sharp ends cut the rock and tear it away from the face;
• barbell. Used for impact and rotary drilling. A tool is lowered onto the face on it, while it rotates, drilling is carried out, and with its help, the destroyed rock is extracted to the surface. The rods experience compression, tension, bending and torsion loads. For this tool, you can use square or round steel rods, as well as water pipes with a reinforced wall.

Turnkey water well price

The cost of a turnkey water well, the price per meter of drilling, is a complex value that is influenced by a number of circumstances. First of all, it depends on the location of the object and the specifics of the area. Geological sections in the territory of one region are heterogeneous, the distribution of aquifers varies. As a result, drilling water wells costs differently in each area. In addition, soil composition and landscape matter.

• development area;
• the methodology used;
• transportation costs;
• depth of aquifers;
• installation of equipment;
• direct work on drilling and pumping a water well;
• type of well, features of its technical arrangement.

First, a qualified soil study is carried out, as a result of which technology and equipment are selected. Since all water well drilling work is carried out by one company, you can save effort and time by getting water in the shortest possible time.

Water supply to a private house from a well: layout of the main elements

Installing a water well in a private house and connecting a water supply to it will not cause any difficulties if you draw up the diagram correctly and purchase high-quality equipment. The water supply scheme for a private house from a well contains 3 main components:

• source (well);
• pumping station;
• pipeline.

These main components are equipped with additional:

• caisson for a well;
• automation;
• cleaning filters;

• water heater.

To connect the water supply to the house, pipes must be laid. If you do not plan to install insulation in the form of a cement tunnel (which is troublesome and time-consuming), you need to dig a trench that will lower them below the freezing point. Another insulation option can be fiberglass foil materials.

The raw materials used for pipes are different: there are several types of metal and an even greater variety of non-metallic, polymer products.

Useful advice! When replacing or laying water pipes It should be remembered that contact with water and the formation of condensation will certainly lead to corrosion on the metal products. Plastic pipes are not subject to corrosion.

Well pumps: main characteristics

When settling in pumping station One of the main mechanisms is the pump. The choice of this device is extremely important.

According to the method of operation, pumps are divided into 2 types:

• superficial;
• submersible (deep).

Surface pumps pump out water from wells whose depth does not exceed 8 m. They are installed on the surface, the installation method is quite simple.

For greater depths, submersible pumps should be chosen. They come in several types:

• centrifugal. They work due to the centrifugal force created by the blades of the paddle wheels when the shaft rotates;
• screw (or screw). Pumping of liquid occurs due to its movement along the axis of the screw in the chamber formed by the screw grooves and the surface of the housing;

• vortex. The basis of the design is a wheel with blades, placed in a housing and attached to a shaft. Driven by centrifugal vortex force;
• vibration. They work due to vibrations of the membrane, which creates a pressure difference, and the liquid is pumped into the water supply system.

The main parameters that should be taken into account when choosing a pump for a well:

• performance;
• power;
• depth, flow rate and diameter of the well;

• price.

The price of submersible pumps for water wells is much higher than surface pumps. This is due to their greater power, performance, design and installation features. Among submersible pumps, the most productive and expensive are centrifugal pumps, among which screw types are popular. They have high technical specifications, good performance and a reasonable price.

If necessary, dispense a small volume of water per short time It is better to give preference to a vortex pump. A vibration device is often used with a target orientation - to rock the well. Prolonged exposure to vibration can damage parts of the well structure closest to the pump.

Useful advice! When deriving well parameters, some indicators are relative values. Therefore, when purchasing a pump, you should choose a suitable model with a performance reserve.

You can buy a hand pump for water from a well. It requires physical effort, but is much more reliable, much cheaper, easier to repair and more durable to use. There are several types of hand pumps:

• winged. Operating principle: under the influence of a hand lever, the wing rotates, activating the suction element;
• piston Pressure is created at the outlet;
• rod They operate on the same principle as piston ones. The piston is significantly elongated, reminiscent of a barbell, hence the name;
• membrane The operation is based on the reciprocating movements of the membrane.

When choosing a hand pump for water from a well, you must first take into account the depth of the water layer. The deepest of hand pumps is a piston pump (up to 30 m), a diaphragm pump is effective up to 8–10 m. All types of hand pumps can fully replace surface pumps.

Basics of proper well operation

The cost of repairing a water well is always high, since this process is complex and labor-intensive. It is not always possible to do this on your own. In order for the well to supply water for a long time and fully, it is necessary to follow the following rules when starting it:

1. Turn on the pump for the first time smoothly. You need to turn the valve on the head, starting from the minimum water intake value, and bring it to the optimal value.
2. The duration of the first water intake should be at least two hours.
3. During operation, it is necessary to avoid excessively short-term switching on of the pumping station.
4. Systematic and significant water withdrawal in the first months of operation will ensure a constant flow of water and full functioning of the well.

Useful advice! Before using water from a well, it is mandatory to take a sample for chemical analysis of its composition. This will allow you to be sure of beneficial properties water used as drinking water, and will also make it possible to properly operate the water supply system as a whole.

DIY water well: possible problems and ways to solve them

Even if you pay the required cost for a turnkey water well, when the work is done by professionals, it is not always possible to avoid troubles during use. Most common problems during well operation:

• siltation:
• contaminated water;
• weak flow.

If the well is not used systematically, but only in the summer, siltation is almost inevitable. There is no need to rinse the structure in such a situation, but intensive pumping is required.

Water can become contaminated due to the ingress of soil and intermediate waters. The most common cause is depressurization of the casing pipes. Repairs are needed, which can be significant if the casing needs to be replaced rather than just patching up individual areas.

Useful advice! When purchasing materials for the installation of casing pipes for a water well, the price of which is within the budget range, you should not choose: the efficiency of the most expensive pumping station can be reduced to zero precisely because of depressurization problems. Plastic rings are reliable and convenient for mounting the casing.

Low flow may cause the filter to become clogged. The solution to this problem is to clean or replace the filter as a whole.

Figure out how to make a water well with your own hands, or order a turnkey one, accepting the conditions and cost of a water well already in ready-made version, – everyone decides for himself. Price cannot be a priority, and neither can the manufacturer of the equipment. The main thing is that the output be the quality and quantity of water that is necessary for daily consumption and life support.

Have you decided to build a well on your own property to provide your home and family with enough clean water? However, were you shocked by the amount it would cost to drill it? Agree that this event, although quite expensive, is extremely necessary.

The high cost naturally forces us to look for an alternative to the services of drillers. We will tell you how to drill a well with your own hands. We will help you understand the features of excavation and arrangement of a water source - this is a completely feasible task for those who are not afraid of hard work.

The article discusses different ways well construction. After reading them, you will understand whether you can perform all the necessary operations. To better assimilate the information provided, the article is supplied with step-by-step photos and videos that document the process of drilling and making drilling tools at home.

Before starting drilling work, you should study the composition of the soil on the site in order to at least roughly imagine your future well.

Depending on the characteristics of the aquifer, three types of wells are distinguished:

• Abyssinian well;
• filter well;
• artesian well.

The Abyssinian well (or needle well) can be installed almost everywhere. They break it where the aquifer lies relatively close to the surface and is confined to sand.

To drill it, they use driving technology, which is not suitable for constructing other types of wells. All work can usually be completed within one business day.

This diagram allows you to study the design features of various wells in order to better understand their drilling technology and choose the appropriate method (click to enlarge)

But the flow rate of such wells is small. To provide the house and site with enough water, sometimes it makes sense to make two such wells on the site. The compact dimensions of the equipment make it possible to install such a well directly in the basement without any problems.

Filter wells, which are also called “sand” wells, are created on soils where the aquifer lies relatively shallow - up to 35 meters.

These are usually sandy soils that lend themselves well to drilling. The depth of the filter well usually varies between 20-30 meters.

When drilling an Abyssinian well, first use a narrow auger drill to go through the hard ground and reach the quicksand

The hose is not lowered into such a well; its role is played by the narrow pipe itself. The pump is installed directly on the top of the Abyssinian well.

The casing pipe, which at the same time serves as the mine shaft, is extended in sections of 1-3 meters, and the threaded connections are carefully sealed using winding and silicone sealant. Its compact dimensions make it possible to install such a well even in the basement of a private house, so as not to take up space on the site.

The Abyssinian well is also called a needle well, since the casing pipe with a filter tip actually resembles a needle. The threaded connections of such a pipe should be carefully sealed

To make a needle well filter, a series of holes with a diameter of about 10 mm are made on the bottom of the pipe. The perforated area is covered from the outside with a layer of special galloon-weave metal mesh. Such a filter will reliably prevent fine sand from entering the well.

When figuring out how to drill a needle well yourself, close attention should be paid to the method of driving a string of narrow casing pipes. This operation can be performed using a barbell or headstock. A long metal rod is used as a rod, which is gradually increased as it descends along with the casing.

The impacts of the rod during operation fall on the tip. At the same time, the pipe connections also experience additional stress and may become deformed. Sometimes, with strong impacts, the coupling connection can simply break during the driving process, and this is unacceptable. The headstock is a weight with a hole.

A special head is placed on the upper end of the casing pipe, which is struck in order to drive the pipe to the required depth. With this method of driving, the load is distributed more evenly, but the integrity of the connections is still at risk. Therefore, only high-quality materials should be used to drill an Abyssinian well.

In this case it is only appropriate threaded connection, which is coaxial with the center of the pipe. This type of carving can only be done correctly using lathe. A broken pipe will cause a lot of trouble for the foreman, since a piece of column stuck in the ground is almost impossible to pull out.

The work will have to start all over again, and costs will increase significantly. But if for some reason it was not possible to drill an Abyssinian well, almost all materials can be reused.

Manufacturing of drilling tools

As mentioned earlier, drilling devices can be made independently, borrowed from friends, or purchased industrially produced products.

Sometimes a drilling rig can be rented. However, the goal of do-it-yourself drilling is usually to keep costs as low as possible. The easiest way to do drilling cheaply is to do it.

The diagram shows the structure of various drilling tools. Using a chisel, particularly hard soil can be loosened, and then it is removed with a drill, bailer or other device

Option #1 - spiral and spoon drill

Hand drilling can be done with a twist or spoon drill. To make a spiral model, take a thick, pointed rod to which knives are welded. They can be made from a steel disk cut in half. The edge of the disk is sharpened, and then the knives are welded to the base at a distance of about 200 mm from its edge.

A self-made auger drill can be of different designs. Its obligatory elements are knives with pointed edges and a chisel installed at the bottom

Knives should be positioned at an angle to the horizontal. An angle of about 20 degrees is considered optimal. Both knives are placed opposite each other. Of course, the diameter of the drill should not exceed the diameter of the casing pipe. Typically a disc with a diameter of about 100 mm is suitable. The knives of the finished drill should be sharpened sharply, this will make drilling easier and faster.

Another version of the twist drill can be made from a rod and a strip of tool steel. The width of the strip can vary between 100-150 mm.

The steel should be heated and coiled, hardened, and then welded to the base. In this case, the distance between the turns of the spiral should be equal to the width of the strip from which it is made. The edge of the spiral is carefully sharpened. It is worth noting that it is not easy to make such a drill at home.

A spiral auger for drilling can be made from a pipe and a steel strip, however, it is not always easy to correctly roll the tape into a spiral, weld and harden the tool at home

To make a spoon drill you will need a metal cylinder. In self-production conditions, the easiest way is to use a pipe of a suitable diameter, for example a 108 mm steel pipe.

The length of the product should be about 70 cm; a longer device will be difficult to work with. A long and narrow slot, vertical or spiral-shaped, should be made on this body.

The easiest way to make a homemade spoon drill is from a piece of pipe of a suitable diameter. The bottom edge is folded and sharpened, and a hole is made along the body for cleaning the drill

Two spoon-shaped knives are mounted in the lower part of the body, the cutting edge of which is sharpened. As a result, the soil is destroyed by both the horizontal and vertical edges of the drill.

The loosened rock enters the drill cavity. It is then removed and cleaned through the slot. In addition to the knives, a drill is welded at the bottom of the drill along the axis of the device. The diameter of the hole made by such a drill will be slightly larger than the device itself.