Blueberries planted in spring in open ground. Blueberries - planting and care for a rich harvest

Blueberries are known as wild berry. Not long ago she began to appear on summer cottages. Blueberries are tasty and healthy and will appeal to everyone due to the absence of contraindications for consumption. various types: wine, syrup, jam, marmalade and straight from the bush. The article contains a description of the berry and its natural habitat, techniques for planting and caring for the plant on the site, as well as the varieties and benefits of blueberries.

Blueberry: description

Blueberry bushes are common in regions of the Northern Hemisphere due to their winter hardiness and hardiness. Blueberries are adapted to the climate of the Urals and Siberia. If the cultivation technology is followed, it grows safely in middle lane territory of Russia and in the Moscow region.

Blueberry characteristics:

Belongs to the Heather family, the bush can live up to 100 years.
Has perennial shoots, average height plants 40 cm, can reach 1 m.
Surface type root system, fibrous, goes deep into the ground up to 40 cm, spreads up to 60 cm in diameter.
Has no root hairs, therefore reacts sharply to moisture. Mycorrhizal microorganisms living on the roots help absorb nutrients from the soil.
Leaves obovate or oblong, up to 3 cm in length.
Flowers white or pink, five-toothed and tiny.
The berries are round, blue with a characteristic bluish coating, up to 1.2 cm in diameter.

Blueberries or blueberries?

Blueberries and blueberries belong to the same genus Vaccinium, and in English has a common name - “Blueberry”, although the berries are different.

Differences between blueberries and blueberries:

Blueberry juice is always pale and cannot color. Blueberry juice is colored and leaves blue-violet stains.
Blueberry branches are lighter and woody almost to the very top.
The receptacle of a broken shape is typical for blueberries, and for blueberries it has an even round shape.
The taste of the berries varies and depends on the variety. Wild forms are more acidic.
Blueberries have larger berries.

Blueberry sprig

How do blueberries grow in the forest?

In nature, blueberry bushes can be found in forest areas, tundra, often in peat bogs and swamps, and sometimes grow along rivers. Likes, about 4-5. It requires constant moistening of the soil horizon to a depth of 50 cm, but does not tolerate prolonged flooding.
It grows and bears fruit better on poor light soils than on rich ones. Sandy loam and light loams are suitable. Often, independent blueberry bushes grow in groups; blueberries and coniferous trees can often be found next to them. Wild berries are usually small and sour, but no less healthy.

Blueberries will ripen in August - September. It can be collected from August until the frost itself, because the berries, unlike the leaves, remain on the plant.

Preparing for landing

Selection of planting material

When choosing planting material examine the appearance of an adult plant or 3-4 year old seedling.

There should be no signs of disease on the stems and leaves:

The leaves are whole, dark green over the entire surface, straight.
The stems are without mechanical damage, strong, hard and uniform.

It is better to buy seedlings in containers, and wild plants should be dug up along with the adjacent soil with a reserve.

It is better to take seedlings in several copies, preferably in different places sales. This way, you will protect yourself from the consequences of low-quality material, and the seedlings will be more likely to take root.

Select seedlings that grew in similar conditions before transplanting, in the same area.

When planting wild blueberries in the country:

A hole 50 cm deep and 50 cm in diameter is well moistened and sprinkled with soil from the bush’s previous habitat or acidic peat.
The roots are distributed across the depth and width of the hole so that in the future they can grow without obstacles.
The space between the roots is filled with the same soil and moistened.
The root collar of bush blueberries should be at ground level or slightly lower.
The top of the soil is covered with mulch.

When is the best time to plant?

Blueberries are planted in the garden at different times of the year:

Planting in the ground in spring more reliable, because over the summer the plant will have time to take root, securely attach itself with roots and grow stronger.
During autumn planting the likelihood of the plant freezing in winter and its death increases.
Fresh seeds are planted in August, and in early spring those that have undergone stratification.

Landing place

Blueberry bush grows well in sandy, acidic soils. The planting location should be sunny so that the plant photosynthesizes well and accumulates more sugar. This way the bush will be strong, more resistant to frost and disease, and the berries will be sweet.

It is worth choosing a place protected from the wind; it grows better on a southern slope.

Before planting, no other plants should grow on the site for several years, and the soil should be cleared of weeds.

Good and bad neighbors for blueberries:

Good neighbors for blueberries those that love acidic soil: cranberries, ;
An acceptable neighbor would be, which can grow on slightly acidic soils, has similar moisture requirements, but is not cold-resistant;
A bad neighbor would be a pear and, since they prefer soil that is neutral in acidity.

Soil for blueberries

The optimal soil for blueberry growth is highly acidic - a mixture of sand and peat. Peat lowers the pH, and sand does not retain water, and also allows the elements sodium (Na) and magnesium to pass through. (Mg). If the soil is without peat, namely loam or heavier, it is worth forming a raised bed in a mound so that the roots can breathe freely and water flows down the soil horizon.

You can add mineral fertilizer containing the main macroelements to the planting hole. The roots of the bush should be soaked in Radifarm solution before planting. The use of this fertilizer allows the plant to quickly adapt to the new environment, accelerates its growth and prevents cuttings from fattening.

Planting blueberries - a step-by-step guide

Tips for growing blueberries:

The blueberry bush begins to bear fruit at 3-4 years of age., if it was grown from a cutting. It grows optimally only in the 6th year and begins its full fruiting.
From one blueberry bush you can get about 5 kg of berries, which is influenced by the characteristics of the variety and growth conditions.
The berries do not ripen simultaneously; they can last up to 45 days on one bush.. They do not fall off when it rains or winds, so you can pick them not as they ripen, but when each berry is already ripe. This collection principle is appropriate for wild forms.
It is better to plant several bushes at the same time (more than 3). It is worth considering that some seedlings may not survive.
For better growth, complex mineral fertilizers are added when planting. chlorine-free.
Mulch, sand with peat, mineral fertilizers and pine sawdust are placed in the planting hole. Mulch retains some of the moisture in the absorption area of the root system and reduces the frequency of watering.
When watering once every 2 weeks after planting you can use Radifarm.

Blueberry planting scheme - wide-row method. The distance between the bushes is at least 1.2 m, between the rows - at least 2.5 m. They are planted on the ridge in heavier soils, they must be loosened (without damaging the roots) and cleared of foreign plants. Water once every 3 days with 5-8 liters, preferably in the evening.

The video shows an elite blueberry planting technique:

Planting in spring

The advantage of spring planting is the availability of time before frost.. It is more likely that the plant will take root.

Rules for spring planting blueberries:

Blueberries are planted in the spring before the buds begin to swell., and juices will begin to actively move through the vessels.
In order for blueberries to grow better, you should choose a variety for the climate. Lowbush blueberries grow best in cool climates, while garden blueberries grow best in warmer climates.
They buy seedlings in containers where the root system will be closed. Before planting, remove them from the container and leave them for half an hour in water or a solution of mineral fertilizers.
Delicate and thin roots are carefully distributed throughout the entire volume of the planting hole so that nothing interferes with their growth and work.
The pit is processed according to the requirements of the culture. After planting, water every 3 days clean water and once a week with a fertilizer solution.

Planting in autumn

Agricultural planting technology is no different from spring. Feature autumn planting is bush pruning, if his age is less than two years. All weak and damaged stems are removed, and healthy ones are shortened by half.

The disadvantage of the autumn planting period is that there is a small amount of time for strengthening; the plant may not survive frosts.

Caring for blueberries in open ground

Watering

Watering tips:

Blueberries grow well when their roots have free access to water.
The absence of root hairs has a negative impact on the ability to absorb groundwater. In this case, excessive watering can lead to the death of the plant.
Mulch helps optimize water regime, which retains water and allows the plant to absorb it. Thus, it protects it from drought and reduces the frequency of mandatory watering.

How much watering do blueberries need? Blueberries grow and develop well if you water them every 3 days with 5-8 liters of water with a watering can under the base of the bush. Grows well with daily drip watering.

Top dressing

It is strictly forbidden to feed blueberries with organic matter. Blueberries grow well in poor soils and do not require more nutrients, however, fertilizing minerals will do her good.

Blueberries are best suited to:

In case of deficiency:

Phosphorus - blueberry leaves turn red;
Nitrogen - leaves are small, lightened;
Potassium - the upper leaves turn black;
Sulfur - leaves may turn yellow;
Bora - acquire a yellowish tint.

Trimming

Carried out before the buds swell in the spring:

Autumn care and preparation for winter

Harvesting is carried out after all the berries have ripened or every 2 weeks as they ripen in August and September. The berries acquire a characteristic blue color and become soft. At low temperatures, about -25 degrees, blueberries should be covered.

Severe frosts can lead to the death of an annual or mature plant, especially in the absence of snow.

Cover the bush in this way:

The stems, cleared of the crop, are bent to the ground and fixed in this position with wire or a loop of twine.
Cover it with burlap, under which he can breathe.
Spruce branches are placed on top.
If there is snow, cover the spruce branches with it.

Release from shelter in the spring, when the threat of frost has disappeared.

Blueberry propagation

To preserve all the characteristics and characteristics of the variety, propagation is carried out vegetatively: by cuttings or dividing the bush.

Propagation by cuttings:

Bush division:

The blueberry bush is removed from the ground and divided into parts.
The root system of each part should be more than 5 cm long.
The delenki are planted in their permanent habitat and wait for fruiting for the 4th year of life.
They care for them in the same way as for an adult bush.

Pests and diseases

Damage to blueberries by pests and diseases can lead to partial or complete loss of the crop and death. Mechanically damaged areas of the plant are most easily susceptible to disease.

Blueberry diseases and their symptoms

Actions to take when blueberries are affected by the disease:

When plant organs are infected viral diseases , the damaged areas are cut out without delay.
If a whole bush is sick, it is removed along with top layer land and burn it. Cannot be treated.
Be sure to inspect neighboring plants for the presence of symptoms of viral diseases. At the slightest sign of a symptom, the damaged parts are cut out without sparing, otherwise the disease will continue to spread and lead to the death of all crops on which it is capable of living.
Diseases caused by mushrooms, can be cured with fungicides. They carry out prevention.

Mistakes when growing garden blueberries

Blueberries will grow poorly or not grow at all in a summer cottage:

On slightly acidic and neutral soils, does not grow on alkaline soils.
When adding organic matter in the years of growth, planting blueberries or adding 1-3 years before planting.
If there are predecessors in the designated area, especially vegetables.
When water stagnates at the roots for more than 2 days in a row, the roots are deprived of air.
Does not grow in drought conditions for more than 4 days in a row.
Does not grow well with neighbors who like an alkaline environment.
Does not grow in tropical regions.
When adding substances containing chlorine.
In the presence of diseases or pests.
When the groundwater level is low.
It does not grow if the roots are left bent when planting; they are not able to unfold on their own and cannot absorb enough water and nutrients.
If you loosen the soil deeply, the roots are on the surface and are often damaged.
It grows poorly and produces low yields if the stems are not trimmed. The plant’s energy is spent on maintaining the vital activity of non-fertile parts; high-quality branches lack lighting and nutrition.
If you leave plants uncovered in frosts greater than -23 degrees.

Video: What to do if blueberry leaves turn red?

Blueberry varieties

Varieties of one plant species are bred to give them ideal characteristics for certain conditions. Planting varieties of different ripening periods in one area makes it possible to harvest gradually over 3 months. The use of resistant varieties against various diseases guarantees the preservation of part of the harvest.

Highbush blueberry

Shrub, grows up to 2.5 m tall. Peculiarity: rapid growth, good shoot formation. The weight of one berry can reach 4 g. Winter-hardy and frost-resistant, able to withstand down to -30°C, critical temperature for flowers -2°C.

Varieties:

Duke. Feature - eliminates the consequences of spring frosts, thanks to late flowering, the fruits are ripe in mid-summer.
Patriot- not damaged by late blight, less picky about soil conditions.
Jersey- late, not damaged by viruses and frosts in late spring.
Bonus- late, berry with a diameter of up to 30 mm, tolerates transportation well.
Bluecrop— late, ripens in August, high yield, strong berries, tolerate transportation well.
Blugold- does not become infected with fungal diseases, winter-hardy, has a stable yield regardless of conditions, 4-7 kg.
Berkeley.
Elizabeth.
Bluejay.

Variety Duke

Jersey variety

Variety Patriot

Variety Blugold

Variety Bluecrop

Variety Bonus

lowbush blueberry

Grows up to 1.2 m, optimally 50 cm. Feature: short term growing season, increased frost resistance. Productivity from one bush is 1-2.5 kg.

Varieties:

Northblue.
Northland- frost-resistant, capable of maintaining vital activity at temperatures down to -40°C, has a regular high yield, 4-8 kg per bush.
Emil— contain a high content of disaccharides, ideal for preparing for the winter.
Polaris- give a stable harvest, regardless of conditions, 1.5-2 kg.

Northblue variety

Variety Northland

Variety Polaris

Variety Emil

The best varieties for the Moscow region

The climate of the Moscow region allows blueberries to grow well; the only drawback of this region is frosts in autumn and spring time year. When a bush is damaged by frost, blueberries do not grow well. It is necessary to select the right varieties that have resistance to this phenomenon in their genotype.

The best among varieties for the Moscow region:

Erliblue- tolerates frost well, is winter-hardy, can withstand sudden changes in the thermometer.
Nelson.
Spartan- more sour in taste, retain their shape well during transportation.
Patriot- characterized by a stable yield, 5-7 kg. Not damaged by branch and root rot. Used for decorative purposes.
Blu-ray.

Beneficial properties of blueberries

Blueberries are a dietary berry, containing only 40 kcal per 100 g. There are no people for whom eating blueberries would be contraindicated.

Blueberries contain:

Beneficial properties of blueberries:

Growing blueberries at home

Where to plant blueberries at home?

You can grow blueberries without leaving your home:

Will grow well on an unglazed balcony in their natural habitats.
The room should be well lit, avoid the shadow falling on the bush.
Grows well in wide and deep containers, which will not interfere with the development of roots.
You can leave the bush in the container it was in when you purchased it.(if its size meets the requirements), or transplant it into a regular pot.

Only blueberry cuttings are planted in greenhouses for better establishment.

The blueberry bush grows in cold climates, so it does not require additional heating of the air or soil.

The soil used at home is the same as outdoors.

The composition of the substrate includes:

sand;
peat;
mulch;
sawdust from coniferous trees;
mineral fertilizers.

Water on average once every 4 days, 5 liters each.

Growing from seeds

The main feature of growing from seeds is the splitting of the characteristics of the mother plant.

If you planted seeds of a certain variety or hybrid, during germination they may exhibit other characteristics:

Berries may be of a different size and taste.
The bush may change its attitude towards winter hardiness or disease resistance.

Grows well from seeds selected from ripe quality berries. They are carefully crushed so as not to spoil the planting material, and lowered into water. The seeds are set aside at the bottom of the vessel for further drying on paper. Store in paper envelopes in a dry and cool place for up to 10 years or sow in August.

The soil is prepared from 3 parts sand and 1 part peat, the seeds are placed to a depth of less than 1 cm in large quantities with a small distance. Regularly moisten and aerate the soil. The strongest seedlings are left and transplanted into a separate permanent place in the third year. It grows for 7-8 years before fruiting begins.

Blueberries on an industrial scale

As a business, blueberry growing is profitable.

The secret is simple - the profitability indicator is affected by:

poor soil;
winter hardiness;
the need for constant watering (drip irrigation is used in industry);
average area per bush;
no tillage or combine harvesting, but manual harvesting;
need for fungicide treatment;
need for mineral fertilizers;
the need for annual pruning.

Worth considering:

Bush growth period.
Purchase of planting material.
Land cost.
Organization of drip irrigation.
Purchase of fertilizers and plant protection products, as well as equipment.
Payment of labor for harvesting, storing and transporting crops.

However, the cost of selling the berries exceeds the initial investment. Blueberries sell well in areas where they do not grow. Few people grow this bush on private farms, so the demand for it is high. Blueberry plantations do not require special attention to care; growing them is quite simple, the main thing is to provide watering and an optimal level of acidity.

The choice of site and soil is fundamentally important. Best results In terms of yield, growing highbush blueberries in group plantings provides benefits. It is better to plant blueberries of at least two different varieties, then the number of berries will be greater.

Blueberries grow well on sunny, windless area. The distance between plants is one and a half meters and a meter between rows.

When to plant blueberries

It's better to plant in the spring until the buds swell. But you can also plant it in the fall. In annual seedlings, immediately after planting, weak branches are removed, and the remaining ones are shortened by half. Two-year-olds and older do not need to be pruned.

The seedling must be healthy and strong. Give preference with closed and a well-developed root system. Plants have the highest survival rate two or three years old age.

Main mistake for beginner gardeners - planting blueberries in ordinary soil. This plant grows in nature under coniferous trees on light acidic soil.

And simply planting it in garden soil with pine needles and cones mixed in does not solve the problem at all.

Blueberry root system superficial, grows 80-90 cm wide. Ideally landing hole fill out red peat or special substrate for blueberries, which are sold in garden centers.

They're not cheap, though. If it is not possible to buy acidic soil, then it is better to bring soil from a spruce forest. You will need at least one bag per bush, since the hole will be wide.

Preparing the planting hole

- Dig a hole 40 cm deep ( 2 shovels) and a minimum width of 80 cm. As mentioned above, blueberry roots do not penetrate deep into the ground, but grow on the surface and occupy an area within a radius of 80 cm.

- Sapling roots place in a bucket of water and leave for half an hour.

- To the bottom pour pine bark, needles, cones in a thick layer (10 cm) into the planting hole. This is for drainage.

- Pit sides needs to be strengthened any available material to prevent the root system from growing beyond the limits of specially prepared acidic soil. They use slate, film, boards, etc.

- Completely fill the planting hole with blueberry substrate and compact it. For additional acidification, it is recommended to add sulfur– 50 grams per bush. It is thoroughly mixed with the substrate.

- Make a small depression in the middle of the hole and place a blueberry seedling in it. Blueberries are planted in a permanent place 5 cm deeper than it grew in a container.

- Carefully straighten the roots, sprinkle with soil and water generously.

Preferably mulch the soil around the seedling with pine needles to retain moisture and control weeds.

Top dressing

Blueberries not advisable feed with organic matter. It responds best to complex mineral fertilizers for heather crops (complex for azaleas), ammonium sulfate.

in spring

It is advisable to feed ammonium sulfate in liquid form, so the fertilizer is absorbed faster. Consumption: 70 grams per plant.

In summer

In summer, blueberries are fed with complex fertilizer for azaleas 1-2 times. Blueberries respond well to fertilizing with Florovit.

in autumn

It is better to feed blueberries in the fall superphosphate at the rate of 100 grams per bush and potassium sulfate (40 grams per plant). Fertilizer is embedded in the soil to a depth of 10 cm so as not to damage the root system.

In addition to fertilizing, blueberries need watering acidified water. Suitable for watering blueberries rhubarb infusion. Its leaves are suitable for eating only in spring, so in summer and autumn it will be just the thing for feeding blueberries.

2-3 large rhubarb leaves along with the stem are cut very finely and filled with water. Let it sit for a day and pour the resulting acidic solution over the blueberries.

How to water

Blueberries are afraid of drought. At the end of summer, flower buds are formed, so abundant and regular watering is required. Drying out of the earthen coma leads to oppression of the plant and lack of harvest.

When growing blueberries in the country, it gives good results watering with electrolyte(1 ml per 1 liter of water) every 7 days. It will help reduce acidity to 5.0 pH.

Some people advise watering blueberries with citric acid, but personal experience I will say that this method does not give much effect. If the blueberries are not planted correctly, then watering with sour water alone will not make the soil sour. Checked! It's the same situation.

It’s better to spend once on special soil for blueberries or bring a couple of bags of substrate from a coniferous forest than to buy new blueberry seedlings several times. Well, this healthy berry does not grow on ordinary garden soil and that’s all!

You can diversify the assortment of berry gardens with quite exotic crops. For example, garden blueberries have recently firmly held a leading position due to their aesthetic properties and high level productivity.

But you need to have a certain amount of knowledge to grow on personal plot with a guarantee of obtaining a positive result.

This article describes the main varieties of garden blueberries, which easily bear fruit when grown on a personal plot with proper care and timely application of special fertilizers in well-chosen proportions.

There are conditions in which this berry crop not only does not develop, but also dies. And these aspects should be taken into account when planning a site for growing shrubs.

Blueberries are known to many as a magnificent wild berry that has countless beneficial properties for human health.

It’s worth noting right away that forest species are not suitable for growing on a personal plot. It is not worth wasting your precious time trying to cultivate them. This won't end well.

It is best to immediately purchase seedlings of suitable varieties and plant them in the garden. Moreover, hybrids have higher yields, large berries and resistance to many diseases and pests.

Naturally, garden crops are inferior in usefulness to forest gifts, but not by much. The basic chemical composition of the berries is the same.

Low-growing varieties have the best survival rate in the Urals and Siberia, which can easily withstand harsh and snowy winters. But tall garden blueberries can be successfully cultivated even in the most unfavorable conditions. climatic conditions. To do this, you need to properly prepare it and cover it for the winter.

How are garden blueberries different? Photos are attached!

Before you start studying this berry crop in detail, you need to know the history of its origin. How do garden blueberries differ from their natural “wild” counterparts?

This page contains photos of garden varieties, which are primarily distinguished by higher growth of shoots and a large number of berries on 1 stem.

In addition, it is worth paying attention to the size of the berries and the yield from 1 bush.

The prototype of this culture is the wild swamp berry, which grows in nature on peat bogs and in marshy areas.

Its prevalence in a large number of regions is explained by its excellent resistance to unfavorable growing conditions. These plants thrive even in tundra conditions, complementing the sparse landscape of this area.

In the wild, one bush can grow well and bear fruit for more than 50 years.

In culture, such indicators are difficult to achieve, since rejuvenation of the branching part does not occur. Therefore, garden blueberries are usually replanted with new cuttings at least once every 6 years. Otherwise, the yield drops catastrophically due to a decrease in the size of the berries.

Popular wisdom subtly noticed all the useful and amazing properties this berry. So, for its love for the neighborhood with wild rosemary, the culture is called a drunkard. This is due to the fact that during the ripening period of berries there is usually heat; this condition contributes to the release of a large number of specific essential oils wild rosemary

When they are inhaled, a person becomes slightly intoxicated. It goes without saying that the next day you will have a headache, like a hangover. Therefore, it is natural to have another name - hemlock.

But the popular name blueberry is explained even more simply. The berry secretes a characteristic blue juice that stains hands, fabrics and everything it comes into contact with blue.

How else do garden blueberries differ from their wild counterparts besides their higher growth (70 cm versus 25-30 cm in the wild)? Well, at least the period of entry into fruiting.

In nature it is a berry for a long time develops, it requires at least 15 years of growth and development in order to produce the first berries. But with garden varieties everything is much simpler.

Most of them begin to produce moderate yields already in the second year after planting. The bushes reach full strength 3 years after planting.

Look at the photo of garden blueberries - the elegance and grace of the bushes strewn with clusters of magnificent aromatic berries:

American highbush blueberries are ideal varieties for the Moscow region!

When choosing a garden blueberry variety for the Moscow region, you should pay attention to tall varieties that can produce stems up to 1.5 meters in height. They are characterized by high productivity and are resistant to unfavorable growing conditions.

Highbush garden blueberry (American) was cultivated more than a hundred years ago by US botanist F.W. Coville. It has a huge green mass and a spreading powerful bush.

An adult plant can be up to 2.5 meters high. For normal development of the bush, approximately 3 meters of free space is required, which is exactly the diameter of the crown of the bush.

Non-hybrid varieties highbush blueberry for the Moscow region, in the presence of pollinating insects, they give a much richer harvest. This should be taken into account when purchasing seedlings.

If there is no apiary with bees nearby, and bumblebees are not frequent guests in the garden, then it is best to give preference to hybrid varieties.

The harvest period occurs in the summer months - from July 10 to August 10. But with proper care, the harvest can be harvested as it ripens and until the end of September. Naturally, this requires regular feeding and abundant watering so that the bush has enough nutrients to “fill” new berries.

These are “convenient varieties”; they perfectly preserve ripe berries on the branches for 2-3 weeks after full ripening. The fruit can be partially collected for fresh consumption over a long period of time.

Growing crops on a personal plot is sometimes difficult due to the low acidity level of the soil.

The fact is that the blueberry root system is designed in such a way that it can absorb nutrients dissolved in water only after they have been treated with special microspores of a fungal culture. And it, in turn, can develop and grow only with high soil acidity. A soil with an acidity reaction of approximately 3.0 to 5 pH is required.

American garden blueberries can withstand low temperatures with sufficient snow cover, it requires additional shelter for the winter. Although frostbitten branches recover very quickly. The death of a bush can occur when temperatures remain below 30 degrees Celsius for a long time.

The beneficial properties of garden blueberries are undeniable!

The beneficial properties of blueberries do not require additional advertising. A huge number of words have been said and written about the ability to restore vision. Manufacturers of dietary supplements and amateurs constantly repeat about these properties. healthy image life.

The beneficial properties are, of course, indisputable, but are they preserved when growing crops in the conditions of a personal plot? Let's try to figure it out.

Let's take as a basis scientific research, which show that the culture does not have allergic properties, i.e. does not cause allergies in either children or adults, even if there is a predisposition.

One more thing unique property- the ability to suppress an allergic reaction that occurs in response to the administration of certain medications.

The ability to stop atherosclerosis and restore the elasticity of the vascular wall is due to the presence of phenolic compounds and organic acids in the berries.

It is useful to eat fresh for inflammatory diseases of the digestive tract.

A huge number of specific vitamins are beneficial when they are deficient in the human body. Large quantities contain ascorbic acid, vitamin PP and a full range of minerals. Among them it is worth noting silicon and selenium, iron and iodine.

For patients with cardiovascular diseases, potassium and magnesium, which are contained in huge quantities in fruits, will be useful.

It has been proven that regular consumption of fresh blueberries stops the aging process and restores the physiological structure of the brain. Patients' memory and mental abilities are normalized.

Optimal varieties of garden blueberries: “Patriot”, “Bluecrop” and others (with photo)

You need to start growing any crop in the garden with the correct selection of species and types. There are various varieties of garden blueberries, among which “Patriot” and “Bluecrop” are distinguished by the highest yield and unpretentiousness to growing conditions.

The optimal types should be selected based on the realities of the local climate. The greater the difference in annual temperatures and harsher than winter, the more resistant varieties should be purchased for breeding.

Tall varieties should be bent to the ground for the winter and covered with spruce branches. In the Urals and Siberia, varieties such as “taiga beauty”, “Divnaya”, “Yurkovskaya”, “Iksinskaya” and others bear fruit well, which can be seen in the photo:

American varieties of garden blueberries are not as diverse, and include such common varieties as "Northblue" and "Northland". Less common is "Northcountry".

In the Moscow region, varieties such as “Patriot” and “Bluecrop” feel great - they are distinguished by early fruiting and tall bushes, shoots grow up to 2 meters.

It is also worth paying attention to “Weymouth” and “Rancocas”, which are distinguished by high yields of ripe, aromatic berries.

For lovers of large blueberries, which can compete with cherries in the diameter of the berries, we can recommend the Blue Giant variety. Its fruits can reach 3 cm in diameter.

But if you want to collect not traditional blue, but pink berries, then look at the Rose Champaign variety.

Agricultural technology for growing garden blueberries: planting and care

In order to dig, you need to stomp thoroughly first. This is exactly what folk wisdom says. What can we say about the work of a gardener and gardener?

Agricultural technology for growing garden blueberries is not particularly difficult even for a novice gardener. But you just need to know certain tricks.

Growing garden blueberries begins with choosing high-quality planting material. When purchasing, you should give preference to seedlings from well-known manufacturers.

It is advisable to require certificates of conformity and hygiene certificates. Moreover, they need to be scanned and saved. Because to compensate for moral and material damage if, after 3 years, not blueberries grow on the plot, but let’s say wolfberry, you can only if you have documents confirming the purchase.

Planting garden blueberries can be done either in early spring or in mid-autumn. Many are in the question of definition optimal time depends on climatic conditions.

If there is early snow cover, then the preferred spring planting, since such seedlings will go into winter stronger, with a powerful root system and will be at less risk of freezing.

Planting and caring for garden blueberries will be of high quality only if a suitable place for the crop in the garden is correctly determined. It should be sunny and at the same time protected from the winds.

The culture does not tolerate even short-term shading. In the wilderness of the garden among fruit trees it gives about 60% less yield, and the taste of the berries leaves much to be desired.

Mandatory soil examination to determine its acidity. If necessary, acidification should be carried out until a pH of 3.5 is reached. You can use pine needles and sawdust for this. coniferous species wood

The secret of successful cultivation is that planting should be carried out in an area where the soil has not previously been cultivated (digged or planted with crops).

For growing in pots and containers, it is also worth collecting exclusively turf soil or soil from under coniferous trees.

Before preparing the planting hole, a hole up to half a meter deep is dug. Then coniferous soil is placed in it and 2 tablespoons of sulfur are added (this substance enhances the acidic reaction of the soil).

After planting the seedling, regular watering is carried out at least 2 times a week with the addition of 20 grams of water per 5 liters. citric acid. It can be replaced with vinegar or apple cider vinegar. You should not apply fertilizers in the first 2 years of bush development.

Garden blueberries are planted at a distance between bushes of up to one and a half meters. Before planting a seedling, it is necessary to free its root system from a dense lump of soil. To do this, lower the pot into water so that it covers its upper edge by 5 cm. Hold for 5-10 minutes.

Then we remove the lump from the pot and clean the entire root system with water. Then carefully straighten the roots in the prepared hole with soil.

The deepening should be carried out 5 cm above the place where the seedling grew in the seedling pot. After planting, cover the ground with a layer of mulch; it is better to take pine needles or fresh sawdust.

Propagation and care of garden blueberries (suitable fertilizers)

Regular weeding of the soil and removal of weeds is most important rule cultivation of crops. There should not be any foreign plants, since they inhibit the growth of microspores that provide nutrition to the bush.

Caring for garden blueberries includes regular loosening of the soil. In this case, the loosening depth should not exceed 10 cm, since the bulk of the root system develops at a depth of 20 cm.

Watering is carried out at least 2 times a week, even in rainy weather. This is a very important event; the speed of growth and development of culture depends on it.

In hot weather, bushes need to be sprayed warm water to create an optimal microclimate. This should be done in the morning or evening hours to avoid sunburn leaves.

Propagation of garden blueberries is possible in several ways. The most time consuming and difficult is sowing seeds. In this case, you can wait for the harvest in 8-10 years. Therefore, other methods of propagation are used - cuttings and vegetatively.

For vegetative propagation shoots are bent to the ground and covered with soil to form a root system. Cuttings are cut during routine pruning of the bush.

Rooting cuttings is quite simple, but to do this, add a small amount of soil from under the mother plant into the soil.

Total pruning of blueberries in order to rejuvenate the bush is carried out when the crop is over 10 years old. It is during this period that the berries are crushed.

You should choose fertilizer for garden blueberries with caution, excluding those that deoxidize the soil. They are destructive for this culture.

Organic fertilizers are completely excluded. And in the future, you should independently determine which minerals the bush lacks. For example, if the leaves become small and faded, we add nitrogen, and if the foliage turns red in the spring, it is necessary to add phosphorus.

With a lack of potassium, the upper parts of the foliage turn black, and in the absence of boron, yellowing appears.

Fertilizing is carried out exclusively in the spring, twice. Complex mineral fertilizer with clubroot or neutral reaction is applied.

For an annual bush, 1 tablespoon is enough. Every year the plant ages, we double the amount of fertilizer. So, a two-year-old bush already needs 2 tablespoons of fertilizer per feeding time, but for a 3-year-old bush it already needs 4 tablespoons.

The second feeding with the same amount of fertilizer is carried out 2-3 weeks after the first.

It is not recommended to use plastic film to cover garden blueberries for the winter; it can lead to the death of the bush. It is best to use coniferous spruce branches. First, the branches are bent to the ground and secured with wire. Then they cover non-woven material and are buried tightly with coniferous spruce branches. The shelter is carried out in mid-October, and is removed immediately after the snow cover melts.

Blueberries are a common shrub in central Europe and are rapidly gaining popularity in Russia, Ukraine, Belarus and other neighboring countries. Since its berries have exceptional beneficial properties - a high content of vitamin C and other minerals and vitamins, it is necessary in the diet of every healthy person. However, many summer residents refuse to grow them simply because they do not know how to grow blueberries correctly. Although this shrub is not at all demanding to care for and does not require special effort, it is necessary to observe only a few nuances when growing blueberries.

Growing conditions

Industrial cultivation of blueberries is carried out only on acidic soils. The plant develops well on sandy and sandy loam substrates and peat bogs. To significantly improve the water regime and soil fertility, rotted leaf litter is used. On garden plot you can create such a soil using acidic high peat, sawdust, bark, foliage or other materials, increasing the acidity of the soil to 3.7-4.8 units (pH) using sulfur, citric, acetic or malic acid.

One of the main conditions successful cultivation blueberry is moderate soil moisture. Therefore, it should not be planted in low-lying areas, since in such cases there is a risk of waterlogging.

In a plant that long time grows in places with an excess of moisture, the roots quickly begin to rot and die, and the bush itself stops developing and stops bearing fruit. At the dacha, you should choose the most illuminated place for planting blueberries, protected at the same time from strong winds. In partial shade, the yield will be significantly lower, and the quality of the berries will deteriorate. In addition, with a lack of light, the growth of shoots takes longer, and they do not always have time to become woody before the first frost, as a result of which they can freeze in winter.

It is cost-effective to plant several varieties of blueberries in your garden plot. Such a mixed landing different varieties not only allows for good pollination and higher yields, but also significantly improves the taste of berries and reduces their ripening time. If the area is quite large, you can organize home business, growing blueberries from seeds for sale.

Blueberry planting scheme

Landing

Low-growing varieties of blueberries are planted at a distance of 70-80 cm from each other, high- and medium-growing ones - at a distance of 90-120 cm. Planting holes are prepared in advance, 40-50 cm deep and 60-70 cm in diameter. On heavy loamy soils, the pit is made shallower, 20-30 cm deep, but wider and equipped with additional equipment. drainage layer 10-15 cm or plant blueberries on the ridge.

For planting, I use two- and three-year-old seedlings with a closed, developed root system. Immediately before planting, the pot with the plant is immersed in a container of water for 20-25 minutes to saturate the roots and earthen coma with moisture. After this, the seedlings are carefully removed from the pot, kneading the lump with your hands. A young bush is turned upside down, the root ball is cut to a depth of 5-7 cm crosswise or torn by hand, starting from the middle.

A small amount of high-moor peat is poured into the bottom of the hole; no fertilizer is applied; a seedling is placed there, straightening the roots in different directions, and also covered with prepared acidic soil. The plant is buried 6-7 cm above the level of the coma in the pot. After this, the soil is slightly compacted, a shallow hole is made around the bush and watered abundantly. Then the tree trunk area is mulched sawdust layer 7-9 cm.

Care

Constant moderate watering, without waterlogging the soil and preventing it from drying out - important condition good survival and development of bushes. Watering is carried out by fine drip sprinkling or drip irrigation soil around the bush directly.

In the summer, in mid-July and August, the plant should be watered twice a day - morning and evening, 2-3 times a week, at the rate of 1.5-2 buckets for each bush. During this period, abundant watering is very important, since simultaneously with fruiting, flower buds of the next year's crop are laid on the bushes. The lack of moisture will be reflected in its significant decrease, both this year and next.

In especially hot, stuffy times, you should cool the bushes by spraying them with cool water. daytime at 12-13 o'clock. With this simple manipulation of agricultural technology, the rate of photosynthesis increases and stress from overheating of the plant is minimized. Mulching plantings with pine needles, rotted leaves, straw or sawdust not only slows down the germination of weed seeds, but also allows you to retain moisture in the soil and equalize its temperature. The mulch layer is maintained at a height of 7-12 cm. When mulching with fresh bark or sawdust, additional nitrogen fertilizers should be added so as not to slow down the growth and development of the bushes.

Blueberries react to a lack of fertilizers, especially tall varieties such as Canadian. The first feeding with complex mineral fertilizers, such as Azofoska or Fertik, are carried out at the beginning of spring, when the buds swell, the second - during flowering, the third - when small berries appear, but no later than July 1. Depending on the age of the bush, a different dose of fertilizer is applied per season: for a two- and three-year-old bush - 10-20 g, for a four-year-old bush - 40 g, for a five-year-old plant - 70-80g, for an older plant - 150-160g.

Errors during cultivation

One of the common mistakes is the application of organic fertilizers. The Canadian blueberry variety and others not only do not tolerate compost, manure and chicken droppings, but can also die after using them. Also, many gardeners ignore such an important measure as maintaining optimal soil acidity. Why, twice a month from April to September, each bush is watered with a weak solution of citric acid - 5-12 g per 3 liters of water or vinegar. 180-200 ml per 8-10 liters of water.

High fruiting is ensured only with regular spring pruning bushes At the same time, diseased branches lying on the ground and small bushy growth at the base are removed. If the bushes are older than 5-6 years, you should cut out some of the branches with flower buds, leaving only a few shoots up to 6-8 years old, and 4-6 of the most developed ones should be left from annual ones. For bushes of the spreading type, the lower drooping branches are removed, for bushes of the erect type, the middle is thinned out.

When removing weeds around the planting, it should be taken into account that blueberry roots are located very close to the soil surface. Therefore, inter-row treatment is carried out using herbicides or shallow weeding. More often they are sown with low-growing grasses, which are mowed several times during the season and left to rot.

Video “Growing Highbush Blueberries”

How to grow blueberries, what are the nuances in caring for bushes, what is the key high yield this video tells.

This berry and several varieties were considered garden blueberry. And in this article we will deal with landing issues garden blueberry and caring for her.

Blueberries are not one of those plants that can be said to be “planted and forgotten.” She will give us her delicious and healthy berries, only when correct landing and proper careful care.

Planting garden blueberries

Plant in a permanent place garden blueberries It is possible both in autumn and spring, but spring planting is still preferable because the risk of young seedlings freezing in winter is reduced.

Blueberries are a very sun-loving plant and do not like cold winds, so it is best to plant them in a sunny place protected from the wind.

If you plant it in the shade of trees, the berries will be sour, and their quantity will not please you.

Blueberries are very demanding of soil and prefer to grow in an area with acidic soil (pH 3.5-4.5), not previously occupied by other cultivated plants, since the mycorrhiza that lives on the roots does not tolerate developed soil very well.

If you do not have such a place, then you should try to create it, based on the fact that blueberries love peaty-sandy or peaty-loamy well-drained soils.

To do this, we dig a hole measuring 60x60 cm and 50 cm deep; it is advisable to loosen the surface of the bottom and walls of the hole a little, so that over time they do not become dense and do not impede the flow of water and air.

Then we fill the pit with slightly decomposed high peat or a mixture of peat, sawdust, fallen pine needles and sand, and also add 40-60 g of sulfur to the pit (for acidification), mix and compact everything. In other words, we make an acidic substrate, in which blueberries love to grow.

You can also use a solution of citric or oxalic acid to acidify the soil (add 3 teaspoons of acid per 10 liters of water), as well as malic acid or 9% acetic acid (100 ml of acid per 10 liters of water).

For now, there is no need to add any fertilizers to the planting hole, especially organic ones, which alkalize the soil.

It is best to buy blueberry seedlings with a closed root system (in pots or containers), and then it is very important to plant them correctly.

In no case should you simply transfer a seedling from a container into a hole, since the tender roots of blueberries will not be able to turn to the sides in a dense clod of earth and the root system will not be able to develop normally, and therefore the plant will most likely die in a few years.

To prevent this from happening, before planting, it is necessary to immerse the container with the seedling in water for only 10-15 minutes, then remove the plant from the container and try to very carefully knead this earthen lump, and if the roots are tightly entwined in the ground, then you need to carefully straighten them with your hands.

We plant the seedling 5-6 cm deeper, as it grew in the container, water it and mulch it with sawdust (or some other mulch).

Mulch in the summer can protect against weeds, retain moisture, and simply serve as additional fertilizer; in winter it will protect the roots from freezing.

How to care for blueberries?

Regular weeding is of great importance when caring for blueberries. Especially while the bushes are young, weeds are the worst enemies of blueberries.

Loosening is no less important, but we should not forget that the root system lies at a depth of 20-40 cm and, therefore, we should loosen the tree trunk circles to a depth of no more than 8-10 cm.

During the growing season of the plant, it is advisable to mulch the trunk circles 2-3 times with a mixture of sawdust and rotted manure.

Water regime is very important

When growing blueberries, it is necessary to constantly monitor the water regime, since this plant needs moisture. It is very important to prevent the soil from drying out.

Until the blueberry seedling takes root, the soil must be constantly moist.

And for several weeks you need to maintain watering two or three times a day.

And, in the future, if the weather is dry, blueberries need to be watered twice a week and it is better to do this in the morning and evening.

And in hot weather, it is also advisable to spray the bushes with cold water.

In July-August, when the bushes bear fruit and lay flower buds for the future harvest, blueberries really need abundant watering.

But at the same time, although blueberries are very moisture-loving plant, excess moisture is also contraindicated for it, so stagnation of water should be avoided.

When should you prune blueberry bushes?

It is not recommended to prune blueberries when they are young. You can only cut out diseased, broken, weak and frozen branches from non-bearing bushes in early spring (before the buds swell).

But by the age of 10-12 years the bush begins to chop the berries and reduce the yield.

Therefore, it is necessary to carry out anti-aging pruning, which can be done in two ways:

Immediately in one year we remove all old branches. The disadvantage of this method is that there will be significant yield loss within 2-3 years.
In the first year of pruning, we remove only part of the old branches, and leave the rest for fruiting. And then next year, when the young shoots grow, we remove the remaining old ones.

Plant nutrition

To improve growth and increase yield, it is good to feed blueberries with mineral fertilizers, while organic fertilizers are simply contraindicated for them.

We feed the blueberries once when the buds swell, and the second time after 6-7 weeks.

Feeding blueberries should begin in the second year of cultivation:

For a two-year-old bush, apply 1 tablespoon of complete mineral fertilizer,
for a three year old - 2 tablespoons,
for a four year old - 4 tablespoons,
for a five year old - 8 tablespoons,
for six years and older - 16 tablespoons.

By appearance It is very easy to determine from blueberries which mineral elements it is currently lacking.

So, for example, if you are missing:

nitrogen- the growth of shoots slows down, old leaves become yellowish-green, and if the nitrogen deficiency is significant, then the entire bush looks yellowish-green, then a reddish tint appears on the leaves and the yield decreases, the berries become smaller;
phosphorus- the leaves are pressed closely to the stem and acquire a purple tint;
potassium- the tips of the leaves die off, spots appear, the tops of young shoots turn black and die;
calcium- the leaves become deformed and their edges become yellow;
magnesium- the leaves have red edges, but at the same time the green color remains near the midrib;
boron- the apical leaves acquire a blue color, yellowing appears between the veins of old leaves, the growth of shoots stops, and then they die;
gland- on young apical leaves, yellowing appears between the veins, a network of green veins is formed against the background of the yellow color of the entire leaf;
sulfur- the leaves acquire a yellowish-white color, and sometimes become completely white.

Knowing these signs, you can determine with great certainty which elements the plant lacks and promptly compensate for this deficiency by additionally feeding it with appropriate mineral fertilizers.

Shelter for the winter

In most cases, the limit of frost resistance of highbush blueberries is a temperature of minus 23-25 degrees and, of course, the probability of freezing is especially high in a snowless winter.

If you planted late-ripening varieties, then do not forget that they often suffer from early autumn frosts and, therefore, these varieties must be covered first with non-woven material or burlap.

Preparing bushes for wintering should begin in advance.

The branches must be bent to the ground; for this you can use twine or wire arches, placing them in a cross.

Then, with the onset of stable frosts, we cover the bushes with non-woven material, burlap.

But it is better not to use plastic film.

You can throw spruce branches on top. In winter, the bushes can also be sprinkled with crumbly snow so that the tops of the stems are always under a white blanket.

With the onset of spring, we remove the cover and cut off the ends of the frozen branches.

Blueberry flowers usually do not need protection from spring cold snaps, as they can tolerate frosts up to 7 degrees.

Harvesting

The timing of berry picking depends on what varieties we planted. So if the blueberry variety is:

early ripening, then we begin to harvest the berries from the first ten days of July;
if mid-season - from the second or third decade of July;
and late-ripening - from the second or third ten days of August.

Blueberry fruits do not ripen at the same time, so harvesting on the bush lasts more than a month.

The first sign of blueberries beginning to ripen is the change from green to bluish-purple. This means that in a week, if the weather is good, the berries will already ripen.

It is necessary to remove from the bush only those berries that are easily separated from the brush with a dry tear.

The largest, most attractive and tasty are the berries of the first and second harvests, so they are best consumed fresh.

And the berries of the following harvests are much smaller and I recommend using them for processing.

Now we know almost everything about this wonderful berry. We just have to consider: how blueberries reproduce; what diseases and pests bother her; how to deal with them. But we'll talk about this later.

See you soon, dear friends!