Perhaps the first thing that beginners in gardening have to rack their brains over is the timing of planting seedlings in a greenhouse. After all, these numbers should be used as a basis for determining when to sow the seeds and when the long-awaited harvest will be harvested. What to focus on if the recommendations are completely different for different varieties and different places? And what if you need to purchase sprouts rather than grow them? Well, let's learn this interesting art - the art of planning nature!
What determines the timing of planting seedlings?
It is impossible to name any universal terms. For each crop and for each locality, there really are formulas for how to successfully calculate the day so that you can then have time with the harvest for sale, pickling, or a holiday. And the weather is changeable, not to mention the fact that last year you could plant in May as early as open ground, but the snow has not melted everywhere yet.
But basically the determining factors are:
- The readiness of the greenhouse, namely the temperature of the air and soil, which directly depends on the material of the structure and the ability to heat it.
- Quality preparatory work, namely warming up the earth, devices warm beds And internal structures"greenhouse within a greenhouse."
- The manufacturer's recommendations specifically for each individual variety whose seeds you purchased.
- Traditions of the area, namely the experience of other owners of structures who have been planting seedlings for several years now.
- The readiness of the plants themselves, which is determined by external signs and the presence of real leaves.
- The cold resistance of varieties, which indicates how well the plants can preserve their roots in the night cold and not die.
If you have a polycarbonate greenhouse, we can congratulate you: it is in it that you can plant sprouts earlier than other places, like film greenhouses and especially open ground. And all because in such a design there are no cracks, and therefore there is no draft, and the air temperature is always noticeably higher.
As for the general recommendations for planting individual varieties, treat them exactly as general. The average temperature in the hospital is the same. Therefore, let's look separately at each type of variety and the conditions for its cultivation.
For example, already in mid-spring you can plant in an unheated greenhouse:
- Various salads
- Radish
- Chinese cabbage
- Mustard
- Parsley
- Dill
For the northern regions of the country and the Urals, the most favorable time for landing - this is the second and third ten days of May. By the way, there is a fairly true folk sign– if frogs start singing on the river, there will be no more frosts.
Each vegetable has its own growing conditions. So, no matter how sunny and warm the place your greenhouse is located, there are certain requirements for it.
And the lunar calendar is also quite popular:
Is there still snow? Don't rush!
The most natural winter treatment of greenhouse soil, as intended by nature, is snow. Here's how much work this collection of fragile snowflakes does:
- Almost all insect larvae and weed roots die under the snow in winter.
- But beneficial microorganisms usually overwinter well under snow.
- The gradual melting of snow evenly nourishes the entire soil thickness with distilled water.
- The water obtained in this way significantly reduces soil salinization.
So if you don't want your vegetables too early, let the snow do its work for a healthier and richer harvest.
Determining factor: soil temperature
The most popular mistake beginners make is planting seedlings in fairly cold greenhouse beds when the air itself seems warm. This is really a catch, because, it would seem, according to the laws of physics, first from sun rays The earth warms up, and from it the surrounding air warms up. And this is true, and the soil may indeed feel ready to the touch for growing plants on it, but we often forget that the roots are at depth. And it's cold there.
Take a regular outdoor thermometer and stick it into the greenhouse beds. Preferably to a depth of 10-15 cm, where the roots will fall first (and in an adult plant they will reach all of 60-80 cm, no doubt). So what's the temperature now? Around +10°C? Plant plants and they will stop their development for a long time.
It's all about stress from the unexpected unfavorable conditions. Nature is smart, and the plant that came from ideal conditions into the frozen ground, “thinks” that winter has come. Therefore, it quickly curtails its main functions and falls into the real hibernation. How long will it take you to “wake him up” then!
And due to the extended adaptation period, fruiting will occur much later. And why then a greenhouse, when the same result could be achieved in the open air? Moreover, the harvest itself from such bushes, unfortunately, will not please you.
Therefore, the soil temperature is really important factor. Let's list exactly what it should be for a wide variety of seedlings:
- Cucumbers: +18°C during the day and +16°C at night.
- Tomatoes: +15°C during the day and +14°C at night.
- Eggplants: +18°C during the day and +16°C at night.
- Pepper: +15°C during the day and +14°C at night.
- Onion: +10°C during the day and +8°C at night.
More precisely:
How to determine the exact time of disembarkation?
Typically, all general recommendations are given for the Central region of Russia. The further north your greenhouse is, the further you move the dates; the further south, the earlier you can plant your seedlings, having previously measured the air and soil temperatures.
If you grew the sprouts yourself and remember well at what time the seeds were sown, then everything is simple. You add a certain period of time for each individual crop, and you get the exact day of planting in the greenhouse. But what if you bought the plants ready-made? How do you know when they can be planted? Now let's figure this out.
cucumbers
Cucumber seedlings are able to survive transplantation to the 20-23rd day of life without any problems. Moreover, you can even plant it in a greenhouse, where the temperature has only reached 20°C, if you warm up the beds themselves. To do this, they put manure or rotting sawdust in them and heat them with boiling water.
So, when the sprouts already have 3-4 leaves, they can be planted. In central Russia it is May 10-15.
Tomatoes
On average, the time for planting tomatoes is from May 1 to May 10, while in open ground only from the 25th. For tomatoes, the room temperature should be 24-25°C during the day and not lower than 19°C at dark time days.
Tomato seedlings are ready for planting when they already have a root, a thick stem 30-35 cm tall, 6-8 true leaves and at least one flower raceme. The age of tomato sprouts is 45-50 days.
Pepper
10-15 days before planting the pepper, the plant can begin to harden. So, the air temperature in the room is gradually reduced to 17-18°C. First do this during the day, and a couple of days before disembarkation and at night. Three days before transporting to the greenhouse, water the seedlings well to preserve more roots, and cut off 2-3 lower leaves.
You can safely plant peppers in a polycarbonate greenhouse on May 20-25, when the soil is already warmed up to 18°C (check it with a thermometer at a depth of 15 cm). It is important to completely eliminate the risk of frost - pepper is the most unprotected of all greenhouse plants in this regard.
So, a pepper ready for planting looks like this: 8-10 true leaves, 20-30 cm stem height and small buds. The seedlings for pepper should be 70 days old.
Eggplant
2-3 weeks before planting, eggplants must be hardened, according to the same principles as other vegetables, but excluding drafts. The air temperature should be gradually reduced to 17°C. A week before planting, feed the eggplants, and the day before, sprinkle with Epinom-extra, taking 4 drops per glass of water - this will alleviate the stress of transplanting.
So, eggplant seedlings ready for planting look like this: 6-7 leaves and a stem 15-20 cm thick. If there are already buds, it’s not a big deal, but usually they form only after transplanting. The normal age is 50 days, and it is better to plant after June 5th. True, you can take the risk on May 20-25, if the weather is already suitable for flying. If it’s cold, wait a couple of days, otherwise you’ll ruin the future harvest.
Celery
What to do if seedlings grow too quickly?
But this is already a problem. What will you do with the same pepper with buds when it can only be planted in the greenhouse in two weeks? And the point is not even that tomatoes can bloom during this time on the windowsill, but that in ordinary containers there is no room for adult roots. This is fraught with many things, believe me.
So how could this happen? Yes, easily: they fed too actively, illuminated and warmed. In good conditions, any plant will grow and please the eye, although in fact this is not at all for the future harvest. Thus, such plants usually have a thin, elongated trunk, poor root system(why try if they feed you so well?), weak adaptive functions. You plant them, and the plants begin to wither, completely unprepared to fight for their existence. That's why there is a time for everything.
And, if at first your seeds rushed to grow green mass, better height pause a little. All three simple steps:
- Step 1. Reduce the volume and frequency of watering. But not much, so that the earthen ball with roots does not dry out.
- Step 2. Reduce the air temperature in the room.
- Step 3. Remove the special lighting for a while.
There are also special growth regulators that inhibit the development of sprouts. For example, the well-known biological product “Athlete”. But what is completely useless is covering the seedlings from light or putting them in a closet all night.
And finally, when can we expect the harvest?
Many garden crops in the middle zone are grown through seedlings, otherwise the plants do not have time to produce a full harvest. Growing seedlings is an important stage, at this time the future harvest is laid, which is why it is so important to sow the seeds correctly and create for the plants good conditions. Find out all the secrets of growing seedlings from our article.
Most heat-loving plants are grown using seedlings. long term flowering and fruiting. In the conditions of the middle zone, such plants do not have time to fully grow, bloom and bear fruit during the warm season.
For heat-loving plants grown seedling method, include:
- , And ;
- and zucchini;
- melons– pumpkin, watermelon and melon;
- varietal potatoes from seeds.
To obtain an early harvest, all types of cabbage are grown through seedlings - white and red cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts and kohlrabi. You can grow seedlings and root vegetables - beets, radishes and daikon.
Biennial and perennial plants are grown through seedlings to achieve flowering or fruiting in one year. Cold-resistant plants grown in seedlings include nigella and leeks, celery, and parsnips. Some are also sown for seedlings herbs- basil, lemon balm, thyme and oregano.
Crops with sensitive root systems are best grown in separate containers. These include peppers and eggplants, pickled tomatoes, cucumbers and all melons, as well as some types of flowers.
The volume of seedling cups and cassettes is selected depending on the crop:
- tomatoes, peppers and eggplants – 200-350 ml;
- cucumbers, watermelons and melons – 200-300 ml;
- pumpkins, zucchini, squash - 250-400 ml;
- spicy herbs, leeks and nigella – 70-150 ml;
- flowers with small seeds – 100-200 ml;
- flowers with large seeds – 200-300 ml.
Disposable glasses are often used as seedling containers. They are inexpensive, have different volumes and convenient shapes. However, the durability of such cups is low; they usually only last for one season. When using disposable cups, it is necessary to make drainage holes in their bottoms.
Another option is peat cups. They are made from pressed peat mixture, which decomposes in the ground in one season. The seedlings are planted directly in the glass without damaging its roots. Peat cups are usually used for plants with a delicate root system - peppers, cucumbers, pumpkins.
Pay attention! The soil in peat cups dries out faster, and when overfilled, their walls get wet and collapse. Therefore, watering should be regular, but moderate.
Video - Features of planting seedlings in peat cups in the ground
You can also use dense bags of the same size for seedlings, for example, milk bags. They are convenient because you can roll up the bag when planting, and as the seedlings grow, gradually roll it out and add soil. This technique is useful for plants that grow additional roots when buried - for example, tomatoes or flowers.
It is better to germinate seeds under film or glass - this creates a greenhouse effect, the soil remains moist and warm, and sprouts appear faster. Convenient for germinating seeds with removable transparent lids. You can make a greenhouse yourself from transparent disposable containers.
Before planting seeds and picking, reusable seedling containers must be washed warm water with laundry soap and rinse clean water. When using wooden boxes, it is recommended to disinfect them with a solution copper sulfate or bleach.
Seed preparation
Pre-sowing preparation allows you to reject empty seeds, disinfect them and speed up germination. Preparation of seeds for different cultures carried out in different ways, the main stages necessary for all garden crops are described below.
Step 1. To select the largest and full-weight seeds, calibration is carried out. You can make it at home in two ways - manually and by soaking in a saline solution. The first method is suitable for plants with large seeds - pumpkins, zucchini, cucumbers. For calibration in saline solution, medium and small seeds are more suitable (such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, onions and most flowers).
The seeds are manually calibrated using a checkered sheet or ruler. Spread the seeds on flat surface or a sheet of paper and wipe off the largest, smoothest and densest ones. All seeds are discarded irregular shape, as well as empty and too small.
To calibrate in a solution, stir 1 tablespoon of table salt in a glass of warm water, then immerse the seeds there for 15-30 minutes. The floating seeds are removed, and those that have settled to the bottom are washed and dried.
Pay attention! Viable seeds can also float if they are dry. If there are a lot of such seeds, you need to check their germination in a small batch.
Step 2. Seed disinfection is carried out in several stages. For bacterial infections, seeds are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate at a concentration of 1 g per 1 liter of water. Stir the crystals until completely dissolved and pour the seeds into a small bowl. Keep in the solution for 20 minutes.
Treatment in a solution of potassium permanganate
You can use a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution. It is heated in a water bath to a temperature of +38-40 degrees and the seeds are poured in for 10 minutes.
Processing in hydrogen peroxide
Step 3. Treatment against fungal infections is the second stage of seed disinfection. It is carried out in fungicides - antifungal drugs. They can be either in the form of a solution or in powder. The drug is most often used at home natural origin"Fitosporin-M". It is available in powder, paste or liquid form. Dilute the drug as indicated on the package and pour in the seeds for 2-3 hours.
Treatment of seeds with Fitosporin-M
Step 4. From viral diseases surface treatment does not help, so the seeds are heated with dry heat for 5-7 days, hanging in fabric bags on a radiator.
For accelerated processing, you can place the seeds in water at a temperature of +50-60 degrees for 1-2 hours. It is more convenient to do this in a thermos, where the water does not cool down longer.
Step 5. Immediately before planting, the seeds are treated in a solution of growth stimulants, these include Epin, Zircon, solutions of potassium and sodium humates, aloe juice and other natural preparations. The solution is prepared according to the recommendations on the package and poured into the seeds. Treatment time depends on the drug and can be 1-24 hours.
Step 6. After treatment with stimulants, the seeds are soaked in water and left in a warm place to swell. Soaking is necessary to soften the seed shell and speed up its germination.
Soaking time depends on the size and density of the seeds:
- tomatoes, peppers, eggplants – 3-4 hours;
- cabbage – 3-4 hours;
- cucumbers, melons – 12 hours;
- leeks and chives – 12 hours;
- pumpkin, zucchini, watermelon - 24 hours.
This process can be accelerated by bubbling - treating seeds in water with air bubbles. For bubbling, an aquarium compressor is used, its tube is lowered into a jar with soaked seeds and the device is turned on. The soaking time can be halved. It is better to place the seeds in gauze bags.
Step 7 After soaking, the seeds can be planted in the ground or germinated by wrapping them in a damp soft cloth or gauze. The seeds are germinated at the temperature recommended for this crop until they peck and sprouts appear. The fabric should be constantly damp. It is important not to miss this moment and not to allow the roots to grow into the tissue - it will be difficult to get the seeds out of there without damaging the roots.
Germination can be combined with hardening. Seeds wrapped in cloth on a saucer are placed in the refrigerator at a temperature of +2-4 degrees overnight. Seeds of plants intended for planting in open ground can be subjected to cyclic temperature changes: put in the refrigerator at night and kept at room temperature during the day. In this mode, they are hardened for two or three days, after which they are removed to a warm place until germination.
Pay attention! Seeds with fragile roots, for example, cucumbers and all pumpkins, are best planted immediately after pecking.
Sowing and germination of seeds
Crops that lend themselves well to picking can be sown in common seedling boxes for germination; these include:
- tomatoes and eggplants;
- leeks and chives;
- all types of cabbage;
- flowers with medium-sized seeds - marigolds, asters, zinnias, dahlias.
Plants with a delicate and fragile root system do not tolerate picking; it is better to immediately plant them in separate cups or seedling trays of the appropriate size. As they grow, they are transferred to individual containers. larger size.
These crops include:
- cucumbers and all pumpkin varieties;
- sweet and hot peppers;
- roots;
- flowers with large seeds.
Step 1. Seedling containers are filled with soil suitable for the given crop. Lightly compact it and make grooves or indentations. Water with settled water, and if soil disinfection is required, with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Allow water to soak in and moisten the soil well.
Step 2. Pre-treated seeds are placed into the recesses by hand or using tweezers; small seeds are conveniently placed with a toothpick.
Step 3. The grooves or depressions are sprinkled with a layer of soil on top. There is no need to water additionally - the moisture absorbed into the soil will be enough to nourish the roots, while at the same time air access to the seeds will be ensured through the top loose layer.
Step 4. The containers are covered cling film and put in a warm place. Light is not needed for seed germination, with the exception of small flower seeds that are sown superficially, without covering them with soil.
Step 5. Immediately after the loops appear, you need to remove the film and place the containers with seedlings in a well-lit place. It is advisable to provide additional lighting with fluorescent or LED lamps. In the first days, in the phase of cotyledon leaves, seedlings can be illuminated for 16-18 hours a day - this will help them not to stretch out. After the appearance of real leaves, daylight hours are gradually reduced to the norm for this crop.
Pay attention! If the seedlings have stretched out in the cotyledon leaf phase, it is necessary to add soil to the level of the cotyledons.
Picking and transshipment
Seedlings are usually picked at the stage of 2-3 true leaves. Later, the root system grows greatly and is damaged during picking. Transshipment of seedlings from glasses and seedling cassettes into larger containers is carried out as the root system grows.
Step 1. Prepare seedling cups or cassettes and fill them with pre-prepared soil to about 2/3 when picking and 1/2 when transferring. Water the soil and allow it to be evenly moistened. If necessary, disinfect with a solution of potassium permanganate.
Step 2. Gently pry up the sprout with a small spatula or wooden stick. They are taken out together with the earthen lump, being careful not to damage the root system. It is better to hold the sprout by the leaves, and not by the stem - if the leaves are damaged, the plant will quickly recover, and a broken stem will lead to death. For tomatoes, cabbage and onions, pinch off the central root by 1/3.
Step 3. A depression is made in the ground along the length and width of the earthen clod. Carefully place the sprout there and add soil. Compact and lightly water. When planting tomatoes, cabbage and cucumbers, the sprout is buried down to the cotyledons; peppers and eggplants are not buried.
Step 4. When transferring it into a larger container, carefully remove the seedling, place it in a larger glass and add soil around it. If necessary, deepen. Lightly water and compact the soil.
Step 5. In the first few days after transshipment and picking, plants need to be provided with diffused light and moderately moist soil. As soon as the root system adapts, the seedlings will begin to grow.
Pay attention! Some flowers, for example, lobelia, plant several seedlings into one seedling glass.
Prices for potassium permanganate
potassium permanganate
Watering seedlings
From proper watering a lot depends - when the earthen clod dries out, the seedlings stop growing and wither, and if they are overwatered, they can get fungal infections. It is better to water the seedlings with soft water - rain, melt or settled water - with the addition of a small amount of humates.
Get melt water at home it’s quite simple: pour into any container tap water, leave it for 24 hours and put it in the freezer. The water begins to freeze from the edges of the container. As soon as it freezes by about 2/3 of the volume, it is taken out, the unfrozen part of the water is drained - it contains all the dissolved elements. The remaining ice is thawed and used to water the seedlings.
In the first stage of cultivation, before the true leaves appear, the seedlings are watered very carefully so as not to damage the fragile sprouts. This can be done from a small watering can or spray bottle set to a small spray angle. The seedlings are watered at the root.
After picking, as the vegetative mass develops, the seedlings are watered less frequently, but more abundantly, until the earthen clod is wetted. It is important to avoid stagnation of water and allow the top layer of soil to dry out between waterings.
Pay attention! It is not advisable to water the seedlings for the first 3-5 days after picking! Frail roots may rot.
Fertilizing seedlings
Fertilizing is carried out as planned or when signs of nutrient deficiency appear. Before the true leaves appear, the sprout uses up the supply of nutrients contained in the seed. After the first true leaf appears, the active development of the root system begins and the plant can absorb micro- and macroelements from the soil.
There are many recipes for fertilizers containing organic and minerals, but the easiest way is to buy a complex fertilizer for seedlings. It can be both universal and specially adapted to the needs of different cultures.
Fertilizers for seedlings are available in various forms:
- liquid concentrate;
- water-soluble granules;
- powder.
A good fertilizer for seedlings contains:
- nitrogen (N);
- potassium (K);
- phosphorus (P);
- trace elements in chelated form.
The exact dosage and schedule for feeding seedlings is always indicated by the fertilizer manufacturer on the packaging. If there is no such information on the package or bottle of fertilizer, it is better to refrain from using it.
Before picking, seedlings usually have enough nutrients contained in the fertile soil. 7-10 days after picking or transplanting, you can start feeding. Fertilizer in dissolved form is applied with morning watering. If the earthen clod dries out too much, you must first moisten it moderately with clean water, and only then apply fertilizing. Second and subsequent feedings complex fertilizer carried out 7-10 days after the previous one until the seedlings are planted.
Extraordinary feeding is needed when obvious signs lack of elements. They can be identified by appearance seedlings.
The reasons for the lack of elements, as well as the methods for replenishing them, are different; they are described in the table shown in the figure. Sometimes it is enough to change the lighting mode or temperature so that the plant can absorb nutrients from the soil.
Pay attention! It is not advisable to use it to fertilize young seedlings. organic fertilizers– their composition is unstable, so it is difficult to calculate the dosage.
Fertilizer prices
fertilizers
Growing seedlings in peat tablets
Plants with a particularly delicate root system, as well as valuable flower seeds in granular form, are more convenient to grow in. The tablets consist of sterile peat soil that allows water and air to pass through well.
When dry, their height is 1-2 cm, the diameter can vary. After swelling in water, the height of the tablets increases 6-8 times, this is quite enough for the root system of most crops in the first phase of growing seedlings.
Below is step-by-step technology planting granulated petunia seeds in peat tablets. Other crops are grown in the same way.
Step 1. Prepare tablets for seedlings. To do this, place them in plastic container close to each other. Pour a small amount of water into the container, wait for the tablets to absorb it, and then add a new portion. This is repeated until the tablets stop absorbing water, after which the excess is drained.
Step 2. The seeds are carefully placed into the recess at the top of each tablet. When sowing very small seeds, for example, lobelia, several pieces are placed in each tablet. If the recess is not large enough, it is widened or deepened with a toothpick.
Step 3. When sowing granulated seeds, it is necessary to moisten their shell until completely wet, otherwise they will not germinate. The most convenient way to do this is with a spray bottle, pipette or rubber bulb.
Step 4. The seeds are covered with a small amount of soil on top, spreading it with a toothpick. You can simply drown the seeds slightly into the tablet.
Step 5. The grown seedlings are transplanted into pots half filled with fertile soil.
Step 6. Further care caring for seedlings does not differ from conventional growing technology and includes watering, fertilizing and other necessary operations.
Pay attention! Seedlings with short term during the growing season, they can be planted in the ground directly in tablets, bypassing the stage of transplanting into a pot.
Prices for peat tablets
peat tablets
Growing seedlings in "snails"
One of original ways to get strong seedlings ready for picking - growing them in “snails” made of polyethylene foam. The latter is used as a substrate for laminate or as film thermal insulation. Strips of this material are rolled up along with thin layer soil in which the seeds are placed. As a result, a “snail” is formed, inside which excellent conditions are created for the development of seedlings.
Growing seedlings in "snails"
Advantages of the method:
- saving space and soil;
- optimal conditions for seed germination;
- easy picking without damaging the roots.
Flaws:
- long process of sowing seeds;
- If the sprouts are not transplanted in time, they may die.
In this way, you can germinate most garden crops - nightshades, all types of cabbage and lettuce, as well as root vegetables. The “snail” is also suitable for germinating medium-sized flower seeds. The preparation of soil and seeds is carried out using the usual technology described above.
Step 1. Foamed polyethylene is cut into strips about 50 cm long and 10-12 cm wide. Lay out on a tray with one end facing you.
Step 2. Pour a few tablespoons of moderately moistened soil onto one end of the strip and level it.
Step 3. Place the prepared seeds at a distance of 2-3 cm from one edge. The distance between the seeds is 1-2 cm.
Step 4. Carefully begin to roll the tape from the end. Add the next portion of soil and sow the seeds. This continues until the end of the tape.
Formation of the "snail"
Step 5. The rolled up “snail” is secured with a rubber band. Place in a container with a depth of at least half its (“snail”) height. The seeds should be at the top edge of the “snail”.
Securing the snail
Step 6. Well moisten the soil inside the “snail” using a spray bottle. In the future, watering can be carried out in the container - the moistened soil itself will absorb moisture.
Step 7 Place a regular plastic bag over the container with the “snail” and tie it to create greenhouse conditions inside. Place in a warm, bright place until the seeds germinate. Once a day, open the bag for ventilation.
Creating greenhouse conditions
Step 8 Seed germination in “snails” usually occurs faster than in soil, due to stable temperature and humidity. It is necessary to monitor the appearance of loops in order to immediately place the seedlings in the most illuminated place.
Step 9 After germination until two true leaves appear, caring for seedlings does not differ from conventional technology. Due to the small amount of soil, the seedlings may not have enough nutrition, so add a little complex or humic seedling fertilizer to the water for irrigation, approximately 20% of the concentration recommended for feeding.
Step 10 When two true leaves appear on the sprouts, the “snail” is rolled out, the strongest seedlings are selected and dropped into cups using the usual technology or into “diapers” - we will discuss them below.
Picking seedlings from “snails”
Video - Growing seedlings in “snails”
Seedlings germinated in “snails” can be planted not only in glasses, but also in “diapers”. This method is also space and soil saving. In this case, ordinary packaging plastic bags are used as wrapping material.
Picking plants into “diapers” is performed using the technology given below.
Step 1. Plastic bag spread out on a tray. Prepare the soil - it should be moderately moist so that it does not crumble when squeezed in a fist.
Preparing the diaper bag
Step 2. A tablespoon of soil is poured onto one end of the “diaper”, closer to one edge. They level it out.
Step 3. A sprout taken from the “snail” is placed on top of the ground. To do this, the “snail” is slightly rolled out to free the root system along with the earthen lump. The sprout is placed so that the cotyledon leaves are above the edge of the film.
Step 4. Cover the top of the sprout with another tablespoon of soil, trim it (the soil) so that it does not spill out when wrapping it. The bottom edge is left free of soil to make it easier to roll up the film.
Step 5. Wrap the film, carefully compacting the soil around the root system. The bottom is folded so that the soil does not spill out and water does not flow out.
Step 6. The soil on the surface is leveled, compacted and topped up if necessary.
Step 7 Seedlings in a “diaper” are placed in a container, at the bottom of which sawdust is poured for absorption excess moisture. If the film unrolls, you can secure it with an elastic band.
Step 8 Water the seedlings at the root using a small watering can or rubber bulb. With this method of growing seedlings, it is better to fertilize with each watering, dissolving a small amount of fertilizer in the settled water.
You can grow not only picked seedlings in “diapers”, but also plants that do not tolerate picking well - cucumbers and zucchini, pumpkins, tribute and watermelons, as well as other vegetables and flowers with large seeds before planting in the ground. They are planted 2-3 seeds in pre-prepared “diapers”, watered and placed in a container, covered with a bag. After germination, the strongest sprout is left in each “diaper”.
Video – Picking peppers in “diapers”
Described general techniques Growing seedlings is suitable for almost all vegetable and flower crops, however, each plant needs a special regime and duration of cultivation, watering and fertilizing. Brief description Agricultural techniques for growing various crops are shown in the figure.
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Instructions
Seedlings are brought into the greenhouse around May 10-20, and open beds planted no earlier than June 10, since frosts on the soil are possible at the beginning of summer.
Expect that seedlings will appear after your sowing in 3-15 days. It is also necessary to take into account the age of the seedlings, which they must reach before planting. permanent place. The plant needs 2-3 days to take root.
Here is an example of such a calculation: a celery seedling is planted in a garden bed around May 25th. Subtract the optimal age of the plant from this date, it is 70-80 days, subtract another 15 days that will take for germination, and a few more days for adaptation. It turns out that you need to subtract about 95 days from May 25th. It turns out that you need to sow celery seedlings after February 25th.
If you need to get the first harvest by a certain date, consider the duration of the plant's growing season from planting to the appearance of fruit. This time is indicated on the seed package.
The growing season of early ones is approximately 100 days. The best age for seedlings to move to a permanent place is 45-50 days. Sprouts sprout in 7-8 days. The seedlings are planted in the greenhouse around June 1. Goes out to get a tomato harvest for fresh salad by July 20, you need to sow the seeds 100 days before this day, plus a week for germination and several days for adaptation. It turns out the date is April 1-8.
Cucumbers, zucchini, melons are faster-ripening crops, but do not tolerate transplantation into the ground more easily. Start growing them in separate peat pots. These are very light-loving plants, so there is no point in sowing them earlier than April 10-20.
If you have heated greenhouses, sow tomatoes and peppers in February or early March. Then you will start replanting the plants in late April or early May. There is no need to rush; there is nothing good in overgrown seedlings.
To make it easier for you to navigate the deadlines, the following are the landing dates for the most popular summer cottages plants: Celery. Ground – May 25. Seedling growth – 70-80 days. Germination – 15 days. Sowing seeds - after February 25. Sweet pepper. Ground – June 5. Seedling growth – 70 days. Germination – 12-14 days. Sowing seeds - after March 10. Early white cabbage. Soil - after May 20. Seedling growth – 50 days. Germination – 5 days. Sowing seeds - March 15. Eggplant. Ground – June 5. Seedling growth – 50 days. Germination – 12 days. Sowing seeds - April 1. Tomato. Seedling growth – 45-50 days. Germination – 7-8 days. Sowing seeds - April 1-8. Cucumber. Soil - after May 25. Seedling growth – 25-27 days. Germination – 3 days. Sowing seeds - no earlier than April 25. Head lettuce. Ground – June 10. Seedling growth – up to 40 days. Germination – 4 days. Sowing seeds - after April 25. Mid-season cabbage. Soil - after early cabbage. Seedling growth – up to 40 days. Sowing seeds - end of April. Pumpkin, squash, zucchini. Ground – June 10. Seedling growth – 25-27 days. Germination – 4 days. Sowing seeds - after May 10.
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What vegetables are sown for seedlings?
Why grow seedlings when you can sow seeds directly into the ground? Seedlings are not so susceptible to attack by pests and the influence of weather, they are not so easy to choke out weeds, and they allow you to get more early harvest. In addition, in cool regions with short summers, crops with a long growing season can only be grown through seedlings.
Which ones exactly? vegetable crops Is it grown by seedlings? Root celery, peppers, eggplants, basil, parsley, chard, cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage, Beijing and cauliflower, tarragon, lemon balm, hyssop, marjoram, pumpkin, squash, zucchini - this is an approximate, but far from full list garden plants that are grown through seedlings.
When to plant vegetable seedlings
Sowing vegetable seeds for seedlings in January
In the first month of the year, preparatory, pre-sowing work is carried out: they prepare the soil and containers for seedlings, a hand sprayer, sort and sort the seeds, checking them for germination, and buy the missing seed. In the third ten days of the month, from January 20, you can sow early cucumbers for the greenhouse on the windowsill.
Sowing vegetable seeds for seedlings in February
In the first week of February, celery root seeds are sown, and from the second ten days of the month - pepper and eggplant seeds. At the same time, we sow tomato seedlings for greenhouses, and from February 20, we begin growing chard, parsley and basil seedlings on the windowsill. If you have not yet sowed early cucumbers, you have the opportunity to do so in February.
Sowing vegetable seeds for seedlings in March
In March, it is the turn of cauliflower and white cabbage and tomatoes: cabbage is sown around March 10-15, a little earlier, in the first ten days, you can sow early tomatoes, sweet pepper, leek.
Sowing vegetable seeds for seedlings in April
In the first half of the month, seedlings of lemon balm, marjoram, hyssop, tarragon, basil, and lettuce are sown. In the first two decades, squash, pumpkins and zucchini are sown as seedlings. From the middle of the month, it’s time to grow cucumbers for the ground, and at the end of April, sowing vegetables in open ground begins, as well as planting grown seedlings in the garden.
Pots for vegetable seedlings
Both beginners and experienced gardeners have to solve the problem with containers for seedlings. Despite the fact that many have developed prejudice to plastic, this is today the most affordable and harmless material in which vegetable seedlings grow and develop well. For the manufacture of such containers, material without harmful substances, in contrast to cardboard containers, which are impregnated with protection against bacteria and fungi that cause rotting. Under the influence of these impregnations, vegetable seedlings slow down or even stop growing until the chemical wears off.
Plastic boxes for seedlings or cassettes for seedlings with a tray are the most optimal choice, if you have big plans for growing garden crops. It is better, of course, to grow a small number of seedlings in ceramic pots, since in this case you can avoid picking the seedlings, but the pots are bulky, and there is not enough space on our windowsills.
Instead of ceramic pots, seedlings with a long taproot, which is easily damaged during transplantation, can be sown in peat pots, which eliminate the need to pick plants, and seedlings are planted in open ground without removing them from the pot, but directly in it: it does not prevent the roots of the plant from growing through its walls and bottom deep into the soil. In addition, the porous walls allow the seedlings to breathe; they do not contain pathogens or harmful impurities.
Another wonderful invention will help you grow healthy seedlings - peat tablets for seedlings. They can be stored somewhere in a drawer, taking up almost no space, until they are needed. And when you need them, you simply throw them into the water, wait for them to swell, then lay out the seeds on them, which you sprinkle on top with a thin layer of soil. The tablets are then put on a tray and placed on the windowsill to await germination.
Soil for vegetable seedlings
There is soil for seedlings different compositions, however, it must meet certain requirements:
- the soil must be fertile and balanced, saturated with macro- and microelements in the form in which plants can accept them;
- the soil for seedlings must have such qualities as lightness, porosity and looseness, so that oxygen can flow through it to the roots of the plants;
- the soil must be hygroscopic;
- the soil pH for seedlings should be in the range of 6.5-7;
- the soil must contain beneficial microflora.
But what should not be in the soil for seedlings is:
- toxins that saturate the ground along airfields, major highways, and on lawns in smoky cities. It is better to take soil from a forest, grove or forest plantation;
- actively decomposing components, the decomposition process of which increases the temperature sometimes up to 30 ºC, from which the root system of seedlings can die;
- clay, the presence of which makes any soil unsuitable for seedlings.
Today there are soils on sale for literally all vegetable crops, and there are also universal compositions on the basis of which you can independently create the substrate you need. Not suitable for preparing seedlings soil mixture such components: various composts, leaf soil, rotted manure (humus), wood shavings, not processed lowland peat, sawdust of wood, varnished or impregnated with creazote, hay dust and chopped straw, unwashed sea sand, quarry sand unwashed from clay.
Components used to compose seedling soil mixtures: high-moor, transitional, as well as frozen and weathered lowland peat, treated high temperature turf soil, sand and sandy loam from meadows, but not garden soil, sphagnum, pine sawdust, crushed bark coniferous trees, fallen pine needles, peanut shells, grain husks.
Lamps for vegetable seedlings
Let's make a reservation right away: we do not consider incandescent lamps as lighting for seedlings, since they generate too much heat and too little light. For seedlings, lamps with a different radiation spectrum are needed. To organize lighting at home, fluorescent fluorescent lamps or phytolamps with a violet-pink spectrum of light are most often used.
Of the fluorescent lamps for illuminating seedlings, those with a cold spectrum are more suitable. To organize the illumination of a window sill 80-100 cm long, you will need one fluorescent lamp with a power of 30 W of the cold spectrum, and in the electrical department you can purchase a lamp, a lamp, a plug and a wire in a set. Phytolamps have become more popular recently because they emit even less heat and have a better light spectrum at the same power as fluorescent lamps. Good result gives a combination in one place of a phytolamp and a fluorescent lamp, each 18 W.
At the initial stage of growing seedlings, when the shoots have just appeared, the lamps should be placed close, at a distance of 10-15 cm from the container. It would be appropriate to use reflectors that increase the efficiency of illumination, not allowing the light to spread in different directions, but directing it directly to the seedlings, and at the same time protect our vision from the tiring light of fluorescent lamps and the harmful radiation of phytolamps. Reflectors are made from self-adhesive mirror film glued to cardboard, foil for flowers, or just a sheet of Whatman paper - the most successful device for reflecting light, which does not form glare, but produces soft diffused light, which is so useful for plants.
Caring for vegetable seedlings
Watering vegetable seedlings
The soil in the container with seedlings should always remain barely moist - neither the soil should dry out nor water should stagnate in it. To make it easier to maintain constant soil moisture, watering is carried out from a sprayer, and the container must be kept on a tray from which excess water is drained. The grown seedlings are watered with a watering can with a divider (shower head), or even better, use bottom method moisture, water in a tray - this stimulates the development of a branched root system in seedlings.
Water for irrigation is taken settled or filtered, room temperature, plants are watered according to the “little but often” principle.
Temperature for vegetable seedlings
According to the criterion of “heat requirements of seedlings,” vegetable crops are divided into three categories:
- cold-resistant, which prefer a lower temperature on average of about 13 ºC, that is, 14-18 ºC during the day and 6-10 ºC at night. These include all types of cabbage (kohlrabi and cauliflower prefer a temperature a couple of degrees higher);
- temperate plants that require 16-18 ºC during the day and 12-14 ºC at night - celery, onions and leeks, beets, lettuce, potatoes;
- plants that require heat, for which a comfortable daytime temperature is 20-24 ºC, and a night temperature is 10-16 ºC - eggplants, peppers, cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchini and squash, melons and watermelons, tomatoes, beans.
The temperature can be adjusted if you are using a greenhouse for seedlings. To do this, adjust the amount of sunlight falling on the plants, and also use ventilation. Seedlings grown at a constant and optimal temperature for the culture differ good health and subsequently more high yield, while even a small and short-term decrease in temperature can lead to a delay in the growth of seedlings, and an increase in temperature causes the stems of seedlings to stretch out and the leaves to become smaller.
Immediately after emergence, the temperature is sharply reduced:
- for cold-resistant crops up to 6-8 ºC;
- for melons – up to 15-18 ºC;
- for heat-loving people – up to 12-14 ºC.
The emerging seedlings no longer need a greenhouse for seedlings, and 2-3 weeks before planting, the seedlings begin to harden, lowering the temperature to the level of open ground, first briefly, for 1-2 hours, but increasing the duration of these sessions every day.
Transplanting vegetable seedlings
When the sprouts grow to 3-5 cm in height and begin to produce a second pair of leaves, it is time to pick the seedlings - transplant stronger specimens into separate containers. This is done in order to increase the feeding area and the degree of illumination of each seedling. The plants are carefully removed from the soil with a fork, supporting them by the cotyledon leaves and, having slightly shortened their roots, they are transplanted into a separate container, buried into the soil up to the very cotyledons.
Some fragile crops are often damaged during transplantation, and those with deep taproots are generally contraindicated in picking. In such cases, the seeds are sown individually directly into peat cups, so that there is no need to pick and subject the seedlings to unnecessary tests.
Feeding vegetable seedlings
After the first pair of true leaves appear on the seedlings, the seedlings need to be fed. You can mix granules of universal slow-release fertilizer into the soil for replanting when picking and no longer think about fertilizing until the seedlings are planted in open ground. Can it be added to the soil? liquid fertilizers weak consistency. The number of feedings of seedlings before planting in open ground is two.
When to plant vegetable seedlings in open ground
Planting seedlings in open ground is carried out when the ground warms up and frosts have passed, and each crop has its own timing. For example:
- tomatoes and peppers are planted in open ground, which warms up to 15 ºC;
- eggplants require a soil temperature of 18-20 ºC;
- cucumbers are planted no earlier than when the soil warms up to 16-18 ºC;
- For celery, a soil temperature of 12 ºC is sufficient, and for onions – 10 ºC.
Planting is carried out on a cloudy day or in the late afternoon. The seedlings are immersed in the hole up to the lower pair of leaves; after planting, they are watered abundantly and the soil is compacted so that the seedlings cannot be easily pulled out of the ground. After a few days, liquid feed the seedlings with phosphates, for example water with ash, so that they take root faster. At first, the seedlings are very vulnerable and need frequent watering, shade from the sun and shelter from frost, and your task is to provide them necessary conditions for rooting.
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