Is it possible to lay corrugated sheets on old slate? How to cover a roof with corrugated sheets with your own hands? Nuances to consider

Have you decided to replace your heavy slate roof to a lighter one modern material? Don't rush to hire expensive professional roofers. In this article, RMNT will tell you how to do everything on your own roofing work.

Until recently, asbestos-cement slate sheets, invented back in 1901, were considered the main roofing material. Such an “eternal” roof answered everything necessary qualities, relevant at that time, but also had one significant drawback- impressive weight. Today, with the advent of new roofing materials on the market, slate is rapidly losing its position. The population massively covers their roofs with ondulin, corrugated sheets or. At the same time, hired construction teams, in order to increase the estimated cost of work, as well as make their lives easier, often convince the customer to carry out complete dismantling and make the roof from scratch. Others believe that it is enough to simply remove the old one roofing material and you can safely install a more modern one. The truth, as always, lies somewhere in the middle. Let's try to explain what you really need to do.

Dismantling works

In order to build something new, we must first remove all the old things that interfere with us. That is, to carry out dismantling work. And, of course, you need to start dismantling with... a weather forecast. Before you start roofing work, you should find out if the weather forecasters promise us long and lingering rains. After all, we are already blocking off the living space, with everyone internal works, so getting precipitation inside is strictly undesirable.

Important! Even if the weather forecasters give the go-ahead, still stock up on film, tarpaulin or other waterproofing.

To dismantle we need a nail puller, wooden block, ropes and a pair of hooks the thickness of a slate nail, as well as two guide bars that will serve for the safe raising and lowering of roofing materials.

Dismantling should begin in the reverse order of installation, that is, first remove the ridge, then the top row of slate, and so on until the bare sheathing. We pull out the nails using a nail puller, placing a wooden block in the place where the latter stops. Asbestos-cement sheets should be lowered along wooden guides, having previously hooked them onto the holes made with nails with hooks. Simply lowering slate along a rope is unsafe.

Do not try to dismantle the slate from the entire roof at once, if the team is small and you do not have time to re-roof in one day, replace it in stages, first repairing one slope, then the next.

Following the slate, we also dismantle the old sheathing, leaving only the bare rafter system on the plane.

Rafter system repair

Since the requirements for the plane of slate and corrugated board are different (for installation of corrugated board you need ideal flat surface), we will build this plane.

First you need to pay attention to the state of extreme rafter beams and for the presence of a plane as a whole. To do this, we tighten the screws in all four corners of the slope on the rafters that we are repairing so that all 4 caps are 3 cm short of the beam. We pull the lacing from corner to corner diagonally, as well as along the rafters. In this way, checking whether the plane is level and whether there is a bump on wooden structure. The threads stretched diagonally should barely touch each other at the intersection. If there is no plane, we build it by unscrewing (but not tightening) the necessary screws.

Now, using the outer rafters as beacons, we stretch the lacing between them in increments of 1.5-2 m and inspect the rest of the rafter system. If necessary, we align the rafters edged board, and in case of severe damage to the tree, we completely replace them. In any case, such work can be completed without much labor by 2 people who simply have the skills to handle construction tools, while the manufacture of a new rafter system requires the efforts of an entire construction team with the participation of truly professionals in the roofing business.

Manufacturing of sheathing

The next stage is installation waterproofing membrane. It is laid horizontally on top of the rafters, starting from the bottom and rising to the ridge. The waterproofing should overlap so that water flows over it. We nail the film to the rafters using a stapler.

Important! Waterproofing should not be laid stretched; it should sag slightly, thereby increasing the size of the ventilated space.

In parallel with the hydraulic barrier, we install the sheathing. If this is not done, then problems will arise with how to get onto the plane of the rafter system without damaging the waterproofing membrane.

Installation of the sheathing begins with the installation of a support beam (50x40 mm), which is mounted on top waterproofing film along the entire length of the rafters. For installation we use a 4.2x75 self-tapping screw. The installation step is 35-40 cm. It is not necessary to use a beam that is long over the entire rafter; blanks of 1-1.5 m are quite suitable.

For transverse sheathing, an edged “shalevka” is suitable - a board measuring 25x150 mm. We start installation from the eaves itself and ending with the ridge. The first and last boards should go along the very edges of the rafters, the rest should be located in increments of 450 mm, that is, a 30-centimeter template must be installed between the boards (the lathing is designed for C21 grade corrugated sheets, for other types of iron the lathing pitch will be different).

When the sheathing is finished, we move on to the second slope. We also carry out all the above operations there. The only difference is in the installation of the last ridge board. It must cover the corresponding board of the opposite slope; for this, the latter is planed using an electric planer. Both boards are protected with one piece of waterproofing membrane, secured with a stapler.

Lastly, we install the wind board. It is attached to the end of the sheathing and should protrude above it to the height of the corrugated sheet wave, maybe a couple of millimeters lower.

Installation of corrugated sheets

When the work with the wood is completed, you can proceed directly to the installation of corrugated board. It would be good to purchase it in a size equal to the length of the slope. This is the distance from the ridge to the end of the rafter, plus another 5-8 cm.

The sheets are carefully removed from the stack and fed onto the roof along inclined guide bars; for convenience, in the part of the sheet that will be covered by the ridge, a couple of holes for hooks can be made in the outer wave.

Important! Sheets of corrugated sheets need to be removed from the stack, not pulled off. Polymer coating very easy to scratch.

The first sheet is laid out very carefully. How the rest of the iron will be laid will depend on it. To do this, we screw flags to the outer rafters, small slats 20-30 cm in length, which are installed in the same plane with rafter system and protrude beyond its limits by 10-15 cm. At a distance of 5-8 centimeters from the cornice, a self-tapping screw is screwed strictly perpendicularly into such a strip so that its head is higher than the wave height of the corrugated sheet. Next, between the two outer flags along the wave height of the metal sheet, we tighten the lacing. If it sags, the flags can be duplicated. Aligning with the thread, setting the iron is much easier.

Important! Any trimming of corrugated sheeting should be done from the ridge side; on the eaves side there should only be a factory cut.

The corrugated sheeting is mounted to the sheathing using screws with press washers at the rate of 6-8 pcs/m3. It is useful to calculate and mark the attachment points on the ground.

Important! We tighten the screws without fanaticism, the press washer should press the iron to the sheathing, but not be greatly deformed.

We install wind corners and a ridge. It is much easier to do this work right away than to later climb on slippery iron, with the risk of denting it or scratching it. To secure the ridge, long drills with a press washer are used, which can penetrate the thickness of the corrugated board and secure it in the tree. Installation is carried out through an external wave.

Important! All work at height is carried out only with the use of insurance and when the worker is in good health. Violation of these simple rules can lead to tragic consequences.

Video on the topic

The crown of any building is the roof, and how reliably it is protected from external factors, depends on the safety of the entire building as a whole.

Today, an increasing number of people who have started renovations at their dacha are trying to re-roof themselves, thereby saving their money.

Lately expensive materials, which have traditionally been used to protect roofs, successfully compete with corrugated sheets. Its advantage is that, in addition to quality, beauty and reliability, it allows you to cover the roof without the help of professionals. If you decide to do it yourself, read this article carefully.

Before you start working, you need to figure out what material we are talking about. Corrugated sheet is a galvanized steel sheet with or without polymer coating. Main it distinguishing feature– the presence of a profile that gives this material lateral rigidity. Covering the roof with corrugated sheeting makes it possible to lighten the structure as a whole, since it is light in weight. Thanks to all the above features, this option is considered the most economical.

Overlapping work includes several stages:

  • choice of corrugated sheets;
  • taking measurements;
  • transportation;
  • selection of necessary tools;
  • roof preparation;
  • installation of corrugated sheets.

How to choose corrugated roofing sheeting for roofing?

Structure of a corrugated sheet. The height of the roofing sheet must be more than 21 mm.

  1. Marking of profile sheet. There are many different markings, but for roofing work it is recommended to use corrugated sheeting marked H, with a height of at least 20 mm. It is important to remember that the numbers following the marking letter indicate the wave height and usable width. The choice of profile depends on the planned roof structure. The rule here is that the larger the number, the lower the grade of corrugated sheeting should be. In addition, it is worth finding out which standard was used in the manufacture of the profile flooring: TU or GOST. Compliance with the latter indicates more high quality material. Inquire about the availability of a certificate.
  2. Appearance of the profile sheet. The surface of the profile must be smooth; the presence of cracks or roughness indicates low quality of the product. If the corrugated sheet is made in color, peeling of the paint is not allowed. Check the profile sheet for strength; if it bends easily and breaks, you should refuse such a purchase.
  3. A high-quality sheet after bending easily returns to its original form.
  4. Price. It depends on three indicators: sheet thickness, type of polymer coating and pricing policy sellers. Sometimes it makes sense to compare prices for the same type of corrugated sheeting from different manufacturers and choose the one that suits you best.
  5. Profiled sheet covering. To give the material additional properties, for example, corrosion resistance, it is coated with zinc. The more aggressive environment and the longer the period of use, the thicker the coating layer should be. To add aesthetic appeal to the material, polymer coatings are used various colors. Here you should focus on your own taste and the exterior of the house.

How to take measurements for covering a roof with corrugated sheeting?

  1. Before you start covering the roof with corrugated sheets, you need to carefully measure and adjust its components.
  2. Before installing the roof truss, you need to measure the roof slopes again, since the project may undergo changes during the implementation process.
  3. Before that, you need to make sure that the slopes are rectangular in shape; to do this, measure the length of the diagonals of the slopes, the permissible difference is 2 cm.
  4. You should definitely check the plane of the slopes using a level with a cord. Permissible deviations are 5 mm per 5 m. If the indicator is larger, it will not be possible to join the sheets.

Transportation of corrugated sheets

Despite their strength, profile sheets can become deformed if improperly loaded and transported. Therefore, when going for corrugated sheeting, consider the following points:

  1. The material must be loaded onto a strong, solid base, such as wooden joists, which must be longer than the sheets.
  2. To avoid friction of corrugated sheets during transportation, they need to be reinforced with slings.
  3. Speed vehicle should not exceed 80 km/h.
  4. Unloading should also be done with caution; it is better to involve two people for this purpose, since dragging or bending the corrugated sheeting is prohibited.
  5. The process of lifting sheets for mounting is also fraught with certain difficulties, since lifting needs to be done only one sheet at a time, stretched from the ground wooden joists. To do this, you need to involve at least 3 people. In windy weather, the material should not be lifted because it can easily be damaged.

To cover the roof with corrugated sheets, you will need the following tools:

Tools for installing corrugated sheets: 1 – screwdriver or drill; 2 – hammer; 3 – rubber hammer (mallet); 4 – brush with soft bristles; 5 – roulette; 6 – long rail; 7 – marker (carpenter’s pencil); 8 – level; 9 – tool for cutting metal tiles (metal scissors); 10 – round nose pliers.

  • the choice of shears for cutting depends on the thickness of the selected material: for corrugated steel sheets with a thickness of 0.6 mm, use expanded shears, for steel of the same thickness - lever shears, for steel up to 1.2 mm, electric expanded shears are suitable;
  • drill;
  • gun for distributing sealant;
  • rivet pliers;
  • knife for cutting insulation;
  • staples and a gun for them to secure hydro- and vapor barrier layers;
  • template for marking the sheathing pitch;
  • wire cutters;
  • screwdriver;
  • marker;
  • roulette;
  • long rail;
  • hammer;
  • cord.

Roof preparation

We are talking about installing sheathing, which is an integral element of the roof structure, helping the roof to withstand heavy loads and properly distribute weight. In addition, it performs the following tasks:

  1. Allows installation as quickly as possible, thanks to fastening the panels to the rails with brackets.
  2. Prevents the appearance of fungus and mold even without additional protection.

Most often, the sheathing for private houses is made of wood, since the angle of inclination is large and this reduces the load on the roof.

Covering the roof with corrugated sheeting

After the sheathing has been made, corrugated sheeting is installed on it. Its use is recommended for slopes no longer than 12 m.

It is important to remember that the determining factor when choosing the size of the horizontal overlap is the angle of inclination of the roof:

  • if the angle of inclination does not exceed 15°, then the overlap should be more than 20 cm;
  • if the angle of inclination varies from 15° to 30°, an overlap of 15-20 cm is needed;
  • if the angle of inclination is more than 30°, it is enough to overlap by 10-15 cm.

Scheme of a roofing pie made of corrugated sheets for a roof under which there are residential and non-residential premises.

  1. Using a screwdriver with self-tapping screws for roofing in a wave deflection, the profiled sheets are attached to the sheathing. In this case, galvanized self-tapping screws 4.8 × 0.38 with rubber sealing washers are used. The approximate consumption of screws is 6 units. /1m².
  2. At the bottom and top of the slope, self-tapping screws need to be screwed into the bottom wave, and along the middle of the sheet - into each sheathing board.
  3. To fasten the sheets, self-tapping screws or rivets are mounted in the upper bend of the profile with a step distance of 0.5 m.
  4. To install the last sheet on the end of the roof, use a large overlap or cut along the slab to obtain the required size.
  5. The overlap of the end strip is at least 5 cm. The end strip is attached to the sheet every 30 cm so that it overlaps its first wave.
  6. Before assembling the roofing sheets, use self-tapping screws to strengthen the eaves strip with an overlap of 10 cm. The approximate pitch when screwing in is 30 cm.
  7. For internal joints, corrugated sheeting with a smooth surface is used. The roof under the joint must be covered with durable flooring. The gap that the corrugated sheet forms with internal joint, must be sealed with a sealant. The joint on the ridge is secured with nails, in the deflections - with screws, observing a step of 30 cm. At the joining point at the ridge, the end side of the profiled sheet is placed under the ridge strip, which is carefully compacted.
  8. The planks are laid with an overlap of 10 cm, they are secured every 30 cm with self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws.

The roof covering with corrugated sheets has been completed.

Good afternoon. Tell me please. We have old house covered with slate, and we . Is it necessary to remove the glassine under the slate before laying the waterproofing (you wanted to leave it for sound insulation) or can the insulation be laid on top of it? Thanks in advance for your answer.


Corrugated sheeting is a metal sheet processed by cold-rolling on a special machine, coated with a layer of zinc, paint or other mixture. This is the most popular polyester and comes in many different shades. Pural and plastisol are considered better and more reliable coatings. The profiled sheet does not imitate a tiled covering; it is corrugated in the form of wavy, trapezoidal protrusions, which additionally gives it strength and rigidity.

What are the advantages of corrugated sheeting?

Several types of corrugated sheets are available:

  • Roofing or load-bearing corrugated sheeting, used for various purposes: for roofing and high-height fences
  • Wall corrugated sheeting for wall cladding
  • Sheets for formwork.

The leaf may be different widths, mainly its range is from 980 to 1850 millimeters. A sheet with a thickness of 0.5 mm is most often used to replace the roof, but there are sheets up to one millimeter thick. The thickness is chosen based on climatic conditions.

When replacing slate with corrugated board, it is best to purchase a sheet eight-tenths of a millimeter thick. The height of the corrugation is different, ranging from 15 to 130 mm. The main advantages of corrugated sheeting over slate or any other roofing material:

  1. The corrugated sheet is lightweight: this allows you to quickly and easily deliver it to the construction site and lift it upstairs, and there is no need to do additional work to strengthen the rafter system.
  2. The corrugated sheet has double protection against climatic influences.
  3. It is quite difficult to pierce or damage the material.
  4. Long service life - up to 50 years.
  5. Unlike slate, corrugated board does not fade in the sun, its color remains for many years, there is no need for frequent painting or any repair work.
  6. You can lay corrugated sheets yourself, saving on the services of specialists, which are not cheap. Even by laying it yourself, without experience, you can make the roof warm and protect it from leaks.
  7. Low cost of corrugated sheets.

What is needed for laying corrugated sheets

To replace the slate covering with corrugated sheeting, you will need some materials and components. You may need:

  • Ridges for the uppermost horizontal edges of the roof slope in areas of inclined fractures
  • End strips for covering the end part of the roof
  • Valleys for designing internal roof joints
  • Strips of internal and external corners to ensure protection of the roof from excess moisture.

In addition to all this, self-tapping screws will be needed (for square meter approximately 8 pieces), insulation, waterproofing membrane.

Do I need to remove the old slate?

Covering the roof with corrugated sheets is described in the video:

There are two options for covering corrugated sheets over old slate: leaving the old coating in place and removing it. Procedure when the slate roof remains in the same place:

  1. 1. The slate layer is not removed
  2. 2. Vertical rafters are strengthened and installed on top of the slate; their length must be equal to the length of the profile on the sheathing
  3. 3. A new roof is being installed, corrugated sheets are placed in sections
  4. 4. Sheets of corrugated sheets are attached to the rafters
  5. 5. All necessary roofing accessories are installed in the designated areas ( drainage system, planks, etc.).
  6. 6. The final details are installed - bends and drains.

It is very easy to lay corrugated sheeting on the roof; two people will be enough for this. The work will take one day.

The second option is to replace the slate:

  1. First, we completely dismantle the old slate from the roof, being careful not to damage the rafter system. Afterwards, we carefully inspect the roof and find places that need to be repaired or replaced. We immediately impregnate wooden elements with antiseptics, and replace cracked or rotten ones with new ones.
  2. We attach the waterproofing film with an overlap to the rafters. In this case, you need to ensure that the film is intact.
  3. Now we lay the thermal insulation material. Commonly used mineral wool and polystyrene foam.
  4. Fastening the corrugated sheeting begins from the ends, the overlap is 1-2 waves - this depends on the angle of the roof slope. In places where they overlap, the sheets are carefully fastened together; for flat sheets, additional special sealants are used to protect them from moisture.

The corrugated sheet is attached only to self-tapping screws that have rubber gaskets(except for the valley), this will protect the structure and material from corrosion, moisture and other damage. It is not recommended to use screws with colored heads so that they are not visible against the background of the roof. Before you begin replacing roofing material, you must carefully calculate roofing so that the house without a roof is not exposed to the open air for a long time.

2014-07-04

Creating a roof is always associated with a lot of different nuances that require attention. Errors made during design and installation always cause premature destruction of the roof, so they should be avoided by thinking through all stages of construction work in advance.

One of the problems is the selection and installation of roofing material. IN recent years corrugated sheeting is increasingly being used for roofing, the most important advantage which, compared to other roofing coverings, is easy to install, allowing you to do everything necessary work on one's own. How to cover the roof yourself with corrugated sheets will be discussed in this article.

Characteristics of corrugated sheets

The corrugated sheet is sheet material made of steel with zinc coating. Sheets often have a polymer coating, giving the material additional protection from external factors. Characteristic feature corrugated sheeting is the presence of a profile, due to which the sheets acquire greater rigidity. Since the rigidity of the material is achieved without increasing its weight, it ultimately turns out to relieve the entire roof structure.


Covering the roof with corrugated sheeting is carried out in several stages, proceeding in the following sequence:

  • Choosing the right material;
  • Taking measurements;
  • Transportation;
  • Preparation of tools;
  • Preparatory roofing work;
  • Direct installation of the coating.

Material selection

There are several parameters that need to be carefully studied when choosing profiled sheets for roofing:

  1. Marking. There are several types of profile sheets, but for the roof, the best products are those marked H, which were originally developed as roofing. When choosing a specific brand, you must pay attention to the wave height, which should be at least 20 mm, and the usable width of the sheet. You can use general rule: with an increased roof slope, it is worth choosing a lower grade of corrugated sheeting. It will not be superfluous to study the quality certificate when purchasing material.
  2. Presence of defects and damage. Of course, you should not use damaged or deformed corrugated roofing sheeting. There should be no cracks, roughness or other defects on the surface of the profile, and the coating should be intact. If the sheet bends too easily or breaks at the slightest bend, then it is strongly not recommended to use it. Moreover, it really high-quality corrugated sheeting after bending, it returns to its original state on its own.
  3. Price. This parameter is especially relevant with a limited budget allocated for construction. The cost is affected by the thickness of the products and the type of coating. Different manufacturers may have exactly the same corrugated sheets, so it’s worth studying the market and choosing the most suitable option.
  4. Type of coverage. To protect corrugated sheets from corrosion, a zinc coating is usually used. The thickness of the protective layer varies, so you need to select the material taking into account the operating conditions. In addition, most profiled sheets also have a polymer coating, which provides additional protection and improves the visual quality of the material. It is worth noting that corrugated sheeting is used not only for roofing. For example, quite often interfloor slabs are made using corrugated sheets, which makes it possible to quickly carry out such work.

Taking measurements yourself

Before closing old roof corrugated sheeting, it is necessary to carry out a number of measuring operations:

  • It is necessary to measure all elements of the roof structure and adjust them to the required dimensions;
  • Roof slopes are given special attention, which is associated with a possible change in the dimensions of the structure during installation of the rafter frame;
  • Discrepancy between diagonal lengths roof slopes cannot exceed 2 cm, otherwise it will have to be redone supporting structure;
  • Roof slopes should not have height differences of more than 5 mm per 5 m of length.

Transportation of corrugated sheets

Profile sheets, despite high performance mechanical strength, if improperly transported, they may well become deformed and become unusable, so you must follow these recommendations:

  • To transport corrugated sheets, solid and solid foundation, the length of which exceeds the length of the sheets;
  • The sheets must be firmly secured so that they do not rub or move during transportation;
  • You need at least two people to load and unload the material, since it is impossible to drag or bend the corrugated sheets;
  • You can lift the sheets directly onto the roof only one at a time, using stretched wooden logs.

Roofing Tools

In order to cover the roof with corrugated sheets, the following set of tools is required:

  • Scissors (for thin profiled sheets, nibblers or lever scissors are suitable, and for products about 1 mm thick it is best to take a device with electric drive);
  • Drill;
  • Tool for applying sealant;
  • Rivet pliers;
  • Slicing knife thermal insulation material;
  • Construction stapler;
  • Template for installation of lathing;
  • Wire cutters;
  • Screwdriver;
  • Marker;
  • Roulette and level;
  • Hammer;
  • Lace.

Preparatory work

The entire preparation stage comes down to the arrangement of the rafter frame and sheathing - mandatory elements that are part of any roofing structure. In addition to their supporting function, these elements evenly distribute the weight of the roof and allow it to withstand certain operating conditions.


A correctly designed and assembled sheathing greatly simplifies the covering of the roof with corrugated sheets - it is attached directly to its elements. The presence of a full-fledged sheathing also provides ventilation. roofing pie, which reduces the impact of moisture on the structure.

Corrugated sheeting installation technology - how to cover it yourself

Before covering the roof with corrugated sheets with your own hands, you need to determine the amount of overlap of the sheets, which is determined depending on the slope of the slopes:

  • When the slopes are inclined less than 15 degrees, the minimum overlap is 20 cm;
  • If the angle of inclination is within 15-30 degrees, then the overlap should be from 15 to 20 cm;
  • When the roof slope is over 30 degrees, the overlap of corrugated sheets can be reduced to 10-15 cm.


When all stages of preparation are completed, you can begin to cover the roof with corrugated sheeting, for which the following algorithm is used:

  1. Using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, the corrugated sheeting is attached to the sheathing. Fastenings must be made in places where the wave bends. To ensure reliable fastening, you need to select galvanized self-tapping screws with a rubber seal. The consumption of fasteners is usually about 6-8 units per square meter.
  2. At the top and bottom of the slopes, self-tapping screws are screwed into the bottom wave of sheets, and all other sheets are attached to each sheathing board. The corrugated sheets are connected to each other in the upper bend with a fastening pitch of about 50 cm.
  3. The last sheet, located on the gable side, is usually laid with a large overlap or trimmed to the required size. The end strip must be installed with an overlap of at least 5 cm, and its fastenings must be located in increments of 30 cm so that the element covers the first wave of the sheet.
  4. You also need to install the eaves overhang board in advance. It is installed with an overlap of about 10 cm. The pitch of the cornice fastenings is 30 cm.
  5. To arrange internal joints, you need to use corrugated sheeting with a smooth surface. The roof under the joint should be covered as much as possible durable material. The space between the edge of the corrugated sheet and the internal joint must be filled with a sealant. At the top of the wave, the joint is connected with nails, and at the bends with self-tapping screws. The fastening step is 30 cm. The end of the corrugated sheet is placed under the ridge strip, and the remaining cracks and gaps are carefully sealed.
  6. The last stage of work is installation ridge strip, the elements of which are installed with a 10 cm overlap and fixed every 30 cm with self-tapping screws.

At this point, the installation of the roofing covering is completed.


Conclusion

This article discussed the question of how to cover a roof with corrugated sheets with your own hands. This work is not difficult if you approach it wisely and competently carry out each stage of roof arrangement.

Have you decided to replace your heavy slate roofing with a lighter, modern material? Don't rush to hire expensive professional roofers. In this article, RMNT will tell you how to do all the roofing work yourself.

Until recently, asbestos-cement slate sheets, invented back in 1901, were considered the main roofing material. Such an “eternal” roof met all the necessary qualities that were relevant at that time, but it also had one significant drawback - its impressive weight. Today, with the advent of new roofing materials on the market, slate is rapidly losing its position. The population massively covers their roofs with ondulin, corrugated sheets or. At the same time, hired construction teams, in order to increase the estimated cost of work, as well as make their lives easier, often convince the customer to carry out complete dismantling and make the roof from scratch. Others believe that it is enough to simply remove the old roofing material and you can safely lay a more modern one. The truth, as always, lies somewhere in the middle. Let's try to explain what you really need to do.

Dismantling works

In order to build something new, we must first remove all the old things that interfere with us. That is, to carry out dismantling work. And, of course, you need to start dismantling with... a weather forecast. Before you start roofing work, you should find out if the weather forecasters promise us long and lingering rains. After all, we are already covering a living space, with all the internal work, so getting precipitation inside is categorically undesirable.

Important! Even if the weather forecasters give the go-ahead, still stock up on film, tarpaulin or other waterproofing.

For dismantling, we will need a nail puller, a wooden block, ropes and a pair of hooks the thickness of a slate nail, as well as two guide bars that will serve for the safe lifting and lowering of roofing materials.

Dismantling should begin in the reverse order of installation, that is, first remove the ridge, then the top row of slate, and so on until the bare sheathing. We pull out the nails using a nail puller, placing a wooden block in the place where the latter stops. Asbestos-cement sheets should be lowered along wooden guides, having previously hooked them onto the holes made with nails with hooks. Simply lowering slate along a rope is unsafe.

Do not try to dismantle the slate from the entire roof at once, if the team is small and you do not have time to re-roof in one day, replace it in stages, first repairing one slope, then the next.

Following the slate, we also dismantle the old sheathing, leaving only the bare rafter system on the plane.

Rafter system repair

Since the requirements for the plane of slate and corrugated board are different (installation of corrugated board requires a perfectly flat surface), we will build this plane.

First you need to pay attention to the condition of the outer rafters and the presence of a plane as a whole. To do this, we tighten the screws in all four corners of the slope on the rafters that we are repairing so that all 4 caps are 3 cm short of the beam. We pull the lacing from corner to corner diagonally, as well as along the rafters. Thus checking whether the plane is even and whether there is a bump on the wooden structure. The threads stretched diagonally should barely touch each other at the intersection. If there is no plane, we build it by unscrewing (but not tightening) the necessary screws.

Now, using the outer rafters as beacons, we stretch the lacing between them in increments of 1.5-2 m and inspect the rest of the rafter system. If necessary, we level the rafters with an edged board, and in case of severe damage to the wood, we completely replace them. In any case, such work can be completed without much labor by 2 people who simply have the skills to handle construction tools, while the manufacture of a new rafter system requires the efforts of an entire construction team with the participation of truly professionals in the roofing business.

Manufacturing of sheathing

The next step is laying the waterproofing membrane. It is laid horizontally on top of the rafters, starting from the bottom and rising to the ridge. The waterproofing should overlap so that water flows over it. We nail the film to the rafters using a stapler.

Important! Waterproofing should not be laid stretched; it should sag slightly, thereby increasing the size of the ventilated space.

In parallel with the hydraulic barrier, we install the sheathing. If this is not done, then problems will arise with how to get onto the plane of the rafter system without damaging the waterproofing membrane.

Installation of the sheathing begins with the installation of a support beam (50x40 mm), which is attached on top of the waterproofing film along the entire length of the rafters. For installation we use a 4.2x75 self-tapping screw. The installation step is 35-40 cm. It is not necessary to use a beam that is long over the entire rafter; blanks of 1-1.5 m are quite suitable.

For transverse sheathing, an edged “shalevka” is suitable - a board measuring 25x150 mm. We start installation from the eaves itself and ending with the ridge. The first and last boards should go along the very edges of the rafters, the rest should be located in increments of 450 mm, that is, a 30-centimeter template must be installed between the boards (the lathing is designed for C21 grade corrugated sheets, for other types of iron the lathing pitch will be different).

When the sheathing is finished, we move on to the second slope. We also carry out all the above operations there. The only difference is in the installation of the last ridge board. It must cover the corresponding board of the opposite slope; for this, the latter is planed using an electric planer. Both boards are protected with one piece of waterproofing membrane, secured with a stapler.

Lastly, we install the wind board. It is attached to the end of the sheathing and should protrude above it to the height of the corrugated sheet wave, maybe a couple of millimeters lower.

Installation of corrugated sheets

When the work with the wood is completed, you can proceed directly to the installation of corrugated board. It would be good to purchase it in a size equal to the length of the slope. This is the distance from the ridge to the end of the rafter, plus another 5-8 cm.

The sheets are carefully removed from the stack and fed onto the roof along inclined guide bars; for convenience, in the part of the sheet that will be covered by the ridge, a couple of holes for hooks can be made in the outer wave.

Important! Sheets of corrugated sheets need to be removed from the stack, not pulled off. The polymer coating is very easy to scratch.

The first sheet is laid out very carefully. How the rest of the iron will be laid will depend on it. To do this, we screw flags to the outer rafters, small slats 20-30 cm in length, which are installed in the same plane with the rafter system and protrude 10-15 cm beyond its limits. At a distance of 5-8 centimeters from the cornice, a self-tapping screw is screwed strictly perpendicularly into such a strip so that its head is higher than the wave height of the corrugated sheet. Next, between the two outer flags along the wave height of the metal sheet, we tighten the lacing. If it sags, the flags can be duplicated. Aligning with the thread, setting the iron is much easier.

Important! Any trimming of corrugated sheeting should be done from the ridge side; on the eaves side there should only be a factory cut.

The corrugated sheeting is mounted to the sheathing using screws with press washers at the rate of 6-8 pcs/m3. It is useful to calculate and mark the attachment points on the ground.

Important! We tighten the screws without fanaticism, the press washer should press the iron to the sheathing, but not be greatly deformed.

We install wind corners and a ridge. It is much easier to do this work right away than to later climb on slippery iron, with the risk of denting it or scratching it. To secure the ridge, long drills with a press washer are used, which can penetrate the thickness of the corrugated board and secure it in the tree. Installation is carried out through an external wave.

Important! All work at height is carried out only with the use of insurance and when the worker is in good health. Violation of these simple rules can lead to tragic consequences.

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